. b TUB SCBAlfTON TMBtTOESATtrBDAT- MOKNtRO; TOAY 2.' 1898. flCQ'C ALAS5RI NATIVES first Glimpse at tie Uterior f Eskimo Hit, ' HUMANS THAT LIVB LIKE DOGS Mr. BtohssMd Gltss EstsrtslslM Description of His Initiation lata Slwssh Honsehepltr-Ols Espsrlesocs ia Alaska. Written for The Tribune. " At early day break we And ourselves among charming acenery In StIMne Strait, and after winding; around Eto llne and Zarembo Inlands and some leas er Islands a rem H able series of de vious water-ways tintll th- eye ia be wlldered with all their beauty, we refill the ihirai:teri8tle Indian village of Fort wangei. nn oia -itusstan muemtni that stands at. tot head of Wangel Is land and at the mouth of the Stiklne river, one of 4he water ways that lead to the Casslar gold mines of British Columbia. This fs a ' tumble-down, dilapidated looking town and perhaps as uninvit ing a spot as found anywhere on the coast save for the few carloa'tles of Indian huts,, graves and totem poles. This melanoholv out post is a historic land mark in Alaskan history, and lives only In the glory of by-gone days. The town was named for uaron wangei. who -In 131 was the Russian governor, who constructed a fort which has since gone to decay. Here was the scene of continual conflicts between the gover ror of Russian America, and the eld Hudion Bav comnany. In olden times. whea the' latter encroached upon the territory of the former, by traffic wiui the natives, was driven back ana ae tested by the Russians. FROfcl WAR TO PEACE. 'After the purchase by our govern- ment this fort was garrisoned by two companies of United States troops, . until 18JT, when kit troops were per manently withdrawn from Alaskan ter ritor). The clot-and dilapidated bar racks and otneera' quarters as seen from the steamer. give "evidence of their occupation as a once stronghold, They are now occupied by the Presby terian missions. There la a government house and postofflce here, and the mis sion and school under the direction and . control of Rev. Clarence Thwing, M D., and wife, are in a flourishing con- . dltlon, of which I will speak later. Dur ing the gold excitement in 1862, it was the winter rendesvous of 3.U00 gold mln ers and also a destributing point for supplies for the mining camps- of Brit ' lsh northwestern territory. When these claims were exhausted the life and ac tivity of Wangel disappeared and today about forty whites and 200 to 300 na tives occupy the samo log buildings that were erected during the years when cold was almost as plentiful as salmon. When a military trading port it was a center of Immorality and ignor ance. With few exceptions the white men were of the lowert type, had brought and taught vice of ail kinds. Introduced liquor and led the Indians in diabolical oreles ana inhumanities, Its commercial value now consists al most entirely in the curio trade during -the tourist season.' On the arrival of every steamer, the wharf, the streets, the Interior of almost every house, pre sents an animated appearance by the curio-hunting passengers thronging them to the doors, in search of their na tive wares. Looking over the town the first object that arrests the eye are the numerous totem poles and also the memorial posts. Shorn of its old time prosperity as a mining center this close ly huddled town has an air of desola tion, weird and wild, pitiful In the ex tremeso unlike that of "New Metta- CLOTH NEW Formal Opening 'Thursday, April 30. Our store will be stocked with an unsurpassed lot of Men's, Boys' and Children's Clothing. Nothing old or out of date. Everything ab solutely new and manufactured expressly for us. It. will be our aim to sell Better Clothing at Lower Prices than any other house in the city. We will also carry a complete stock of Our P, J. GRIFFIN,- GUS IVE GUARANTEE OUR GOODS AND PRICES katta," Mr. Duncan's prosperous village we have Just left. The first Impression la to make on ashamed of the displays of the human race. Hastening ashore with our right hand friend the L.un-; dell us camera we commence a tour of Inspect loo and photography, wnere did we go and what did we see? We went everywhere ana saw, weu, every- We visited the natives, we entered their homes (hovels), we talked with them, we saw their Idols, their miniature to tems, we visitea weir sacreu ounw places, we saw tnetr sica. even ayins. . u nM K..I - mm lm,n ttlplr meals, all In the worst possible condi tion 01 nnn, squaiur aim viirumvv vuvi. AMONG THE NATIVES. From the steamer we follow a long wharf, at the end of which is the old Morehouse, and perhaps a half dozen stores, a weather beaten stockade and leaning Block house. Here the shrewd 81 wash are squatted In groups, say, of a half dosen, their posture like that of the lower animal the monKey. tney are dressed in the most gaudy red, white, blue and striped blankets and adorned with personal ornaments that even surpass in variety and brilliancy the giddiest or tne gay. Mere are grim women and cubby, chubby children. with wild almond-shaped eyes and painted faces. The women wear a la brette a stiver, ivory, bone or wooden ornament, that is thrust through the under Hp, the- sixe of which indicates their rank.. Here they all congregate to S'U their curios and curiosities, whfth comprise the native blankets, red baskets, the Tyhee hat, the hali but hook, the miniature totem pole, ca noe paddles, painted in various colors; the carved wand and rattles of the Shaman," or medicine man, besides souvenir spoons of carved horn, and wooden bracelets and rings and baskets laden with the choicest of every known kind of field berries of Immense sixe. We follow along the principal street on a plank walk so badly dilapidated that the middle of the street is preferable, with grass growing a foot high on the one -side and refuse firewood, strewn on the other, while on the beach are canoes and old schooner hulks. All along the route and In front of ach hut sit the women (mainly) - offering for sale their unique handiwork. We noon reach a series of Indian huts, each with a demon-like totem pole beside It. Here we pause to tell the story of the totem and describe the interior of soma of the many smellful households that we visited. Here are found the best col lection of these rude woiks of savage art on our t,tlre trip. Alas! what homes! How can I describe them? Nearly . all cf them are Inferior In cleanliness and orderliness and ap pointments of any farm woodshed and many far more dilapidated. ESKIMO HOUSES. Frequently a houpe shelters several families, who herd together In a very promiscuous manner. We will refer to one or two only that we visited. We were told It is a custom never tn knock at the door of an Alaskan dwelling, so Vf. entered house after house without the faintest tap of warning. The doors were often open, but never locked. The itimutea were mainly in bed and re ceived us without a trace of surprise. We enter this soecial hovel about 3 a. ni., before all the occupant had arisen. Here were two or three families of six old women, two middle-aged men and a very old man. The children or the younger members of the family were :pld to be away fishing. Upon enter ing a dull hase of smoke prevailed the air, und the-olly smell of fish which were hanrrmg from the low, dingy soot covered rafters, being cured for winter use, was stifling. This building, as is tne usual rustom, consisted of a sing It room, there are no divisions, or parti tions and trivacy is almost impossible. Cn the cround. In the center of the room, is the Are place. The earth had been 'left uncovered and coarse sand and rebbles from the beacn had been strewn over this place, say a yard E MffllS J. DAVIDOW; 222 LACKAWANNA square. In the middle was a fire of ticks recced about a kettle of flh. probably, salmon, which was slowly cooking. The smoke mad Us escape through the roof, through double trap dvors, opened in the center. a(coidi:i to the erection of the wind. On entering a squaw waa sitting on the ground floor, ape-like, and "gnK you very much as your domeeUo ani mal would when you open the baru door iu the morning." Fhe chatter in gutteral tones to her liege lord, wh carelessly looks at me from his bel and grins and yawns and together with him, his dogs by his side also yawn, but hastens to dress as I point my camera at him. Both nature and bed apear--l as if they had just come out of a coal mine. Two or three Siwash were squatted also In a circle around the fire. The men who were dressed were clothed In the cast-off apparel of the white man, an-1 the women were tightly wrappei in skirl or blankets. Around the sideB s platform live or six feet wide and abnu: four feet high was raised, whereon were skins and blankets and a bedstead of rude construction. From under them were seen two coppery faces, with star ing eyes, and a brood of children, and a couple of shaggy foxy mangy dogs. On the outer wall were ranged the various possessions of the families in old chests, which were said to contain numerous blankets and several nonde script articles, denoting their wealth, which, in some instances, amounts to several hundred dollars. The odor was so stilling and the squalor was so alarmingly dangerous that we did not investigate further the board or lodg ing and only lingered long enough to purchase a horn spoon out of the family pot and secure a tlsh-roe, which was hung up to be dried and smoked for winter use from the long rows of sal mon and halibut, which were suspend ed on a frame work of slicks. Here were dried eagle skins, a series of hides and a kind of sausage was stretched on lines on one side, while In the corner lay a pile of wood, snowshoes, fishing nets and hunting paraphernalia, cans. Btones, rags and old refuse generally. Cats, dogs, men, women and children, bed, bedding and cooking utensils were in a jumblo and smoke was In every nook. On our return trip and at another place we visited, we spoke with an old woman, who was sick and likely to die. She was evidently very old, but It was impossible to determine her age, so wrinkled and smoke dried was she; Indeed, she resembled a mummy rather than a human being. Her skin was the hue of tobacco and her natural ugliness was intensified by a labret. This labret consists of a piece of polished bone about an Inch and a half long and over a halt inch In width thrust through the lower Hp, making it Impose 'Me to keep the mouth closed and leaving . tooth less gums fully exposed. It Is, ho. iver, regarded as a mark of respectability. Her ruling passion for business waa displayed by offering to sell me her la bret for "two dollar" and an idol, three fuet high, for "five dollar." There is said to be not a horse nor a cow in Wrangel, but numerous goats and many foxy, mangy dogs are seen. On the beach are numerous old-fashioned canoes, with their long beak-like sterns and prows. TOTEM POLES. The totem pole is one of the greatest curiosities of Alaskan homes. It Is the gorgeous insignia of Alaskan nobility a sort of ancestral emblem, formerly held in high esteem, but fast disappear ing. Ten years ago in Fort Wrangel was a forest of these works of savage art, and only a few comparatively, are found here now. It is not easy and we shall not attempt to explain the full meaning of these strange carvings, but all who see them are eager to learn something of them and we will give our readers a synopsis of what we have learned. Many theories are given to account for these totems. "They are a genealogical chronicle, represented by carvings." One says, "As family pil lars and memorials of the dead they Force of Assistants EDWARDS, mm STORE! Furnishings, are interesting In so far as they Illus trate the fact that all humanity, even in its aboriginal and its barbarous state, ad rt for its own protection cer tain rules and laws of government." Briefly told they are erected before the houses and over the graves of the na tives of high rank to show the distinc tion of the living, or to commemorate the dead. In most of thera there is a cavity for preserving the ashes of cre mated dead. The figures of animals take the place of the inscriptions used on monuments of the civilized world. These pictures, figures, or carvings, are read as easily by the Alaskans as the lettering u?on the tombstones of the present day. That owned by a chief is ornamental on the ton with a figure wearing a Tyhee hat, and upon this is cut a series of rings corresponding with the number of pot-latches" (a feast with gifts) with which he had honored his friends." The natives are divided into families or classes. Each family assumes rnme bird or animal as its em blem. Thns-o in most frequent use. found here, are the rpven, eagle, wolf, bear, frog and whale. The bird Is looked upon as sacred and never harmed by the natives. The blackflsh slcnlfy the marriuKes by the succession of llgures carved on these. These poles are made from tree trunks twenty, fifty to eighty feet high and from three to six feet in diameter at the base, taper ing as they asc-end. The bark Is care fully removed and they are gorgeously carved on the front, and hollowed out on -he back to make them easier to handle. The Indians are very jealous of these genealogical symbols. They will allow members of the same tribe to marry, but not those of the same "badge" or totem though they may If fromdlfferent "badges." These "badges" extend through the entire race and form a closer connection than the tribal one. An Alaska man takes the totem of his mother's family until he marries, when he assumes that uf his wife's family. His own son does not inherit from him. but he is succeeded by his younger brother, or his sister's son. A "wolf" marries a "whale" and thus be comes a "whale" himself. His son (taking the mother's emblem) would also be a "whale." But his sister would remain a "wolf," no matter whom Bhe married, and her son would (after his maternal uncles) be the next represen tative of the "wolf" family. After mar- Hafio should trouble arise between the families or a man and his wire, the man ia obliged to range himself with his wife and her relatives and fight against bis own kindred. FAMILY PRIDE. I may say the totem pole custom leads to extravagant display of family pride among those who are well off. It Is as much an evidence of prosperity for Mr. Bear to erect a high pole, surmounted with si! these horrid pictures, etc., as it is for the wealthy with us to live In a palace, and it Is usually the-Indian who has a goodly supply of this world'B goods who asnlres to the honors be stowed upon him by the erection of n totem. Still, any native can elevate himself to distinction by giving a "pot latch" and erecting a totem pole. A "pot-latch" is a feast or series of feasts in which the whole tribe Is Invited to participate. These festivities last sev eral days. The host provides all the delicacies of the Alaskan market by the canoe load. To these he adds the villainous compound, which the white man has taught him to make an in toxicant distilled from molasses and water, etc., even viler than that liquor which the law denies to him. The man who elves away the most Is considered the grandest and most pow erful one, and these ceremonials usual ly reduce the giver to abject poverty, but as he struggles through the hard lines which necessarily follow his put luich, lif has a satisfied pride to con sole him. At the close of the feast with the assistance of his guests, he sets up his totem, pole at the entrance of his hut.- A good sixed totem pole and the ceremonies which precede its er ection, cost from $1,000 to $3,000. The family emblem also appears upon the Al30 Include the Following Well-Known Gentlemen: JOHN COLLINS, LOUIS ALLEN, STRICTLY ONE PRICE. AND THAT THE houses, boats, tools, clothing and even the .grave of Its Individual members. Some of the houses here have two totem poles, one representing the male side and the other the female side of the house, the husband's family record and the wire's genealogy. Indeed, "wo men's rights" prevail among the Alas kans to an extent that gives the tnotn- er the prominent- place on the totem instead of .the father. The number oi figures represented on a pole desig nates the number of generations through which the owner can trace back his ancestry. His own totem is at the top. that of materna) grandpar ents nex- below, and so on as far back ns he Is familiar with his genealogy. The natives generally carve their household ir.iolenienta and even their paddles and wooden-mounted fish hooks into hideous shapes; this is espe cially true of the Haidas, who are very Ingenious and expert workers in silver braclets, bangles, carved horned spoons and black stone carvings, so sought for by all tourists. In ad dition to the totem poles in front of their habitations here, there are some curlouslv marked graves, one that of a "Shaman." sur mounted by a huse carving of a wolf. Memorial posts are the culmination of a series of curious customs. If a man falls sick his relatives call for the "shaman," or medicine man, and In vite In his friends. Before the whites came into this country the custom was. If the sick man died, his body was burned. While the Russians occupied Alaska they tried to Induce the Thlln ket Indians who Inhabit southeastern Alaska to abandon this curious and sup erstitious tribal custom of disposing of their dead. Now they bend his body in a sitting posture and enclose It In a cedar box. Burials are seldom made but the dead of the poor are taken to some secluded spot, wrapped in skins, with a slight shelter erected from spruce bark, and there left to freexe In the intense cold of these high latitudes. Should death's victim be a chief or med icine man, a small stoutly built and well thatched enclosure is erected In which the carefully swathed body Is laid to gether with the Implements of his hor rid calling and such other things as tn life he prized most dearly: His canoe is laid beside the little enclosure ready In rase uf an emergency to sail away with the Shaman, "to the land of the hereafter." His totem pole Is aristo cratic and his earnings for his Incan tations over the sick ore the largest and in his hands is absolute power. even to inflict death with or without any apparent reason. The writer was presented with an Indian club, said to have been buried In the grave of a Shaman nearly fifty years ago and late ly removed, also a "valued piece of an old totem pole as it stands facing the uninhabited residence of a noted enter tain. I mlEht, If time and space per mitted, enumerate ad-inflnltum, but a signal from the Queen indicates that our time has expired and soon we sail for Juneau. Amid all these relics of barbarism and ancient customs and utter desolation, nothing interests us so much as the natives themselves, and for all their present condition, the feeling is strengthened that they can be, and will be civilized and christianized, and thus elevated to true manhood and woman hood. THE BRIGHTER SIDE. Thus far we have given our readers the dark and depraved side of Fort Wrangel. It is a mistake to imagine that there is nothing more to see than the native hut and totem pole. There are among these natives those who have been under the civilizing and Christianizing Influence of the Presby terian missionaries, Dr. Thwing and wife, now stationed here, and these have come out from among this super stitious people and present a reverse picture pleasant to behold. The happy faces of these people as we saw them at the mission, the appearance of their own homes both without and within, their habits and handiwork, the signs MOW, FUR NEW Hats, of their progress In material and Intel lectual ways, and the measure of their development physically and spiritually, are more Interesting anil worthy of ob servation, by far. than the remaining relics or their previous Ignorance and benighted condition prior to the com ing of the church and school. Rev. Mr. Thwing says: 'There are hungry hearts as well as hideous totems at Fort WrangeL This people deserve the aid. sympathy and encouragement of the Christian world. Resuming our voyage, we leave this curious old Stiklne town and after steaming westward for twenty-five miles, encounter a most treacherous bit of navigation called "Wrangel Nar rows." This strait has been thorough ly surveyed and the channel marked by buoys, but this nineteen miles is the most delicate bit of navigation on the entire passage. Captain Carroll says the passage must be made at high tide, for even a hundred ton vessel drawing but six feet of water at "half-tide" could not make the passage on account of ledges of rocks and boulders stretched across its. entire length. In some places It is not over a hundred yards wide and very winding, and con sequently it presents kaleidoscopic pic tures. While danger need not be ap prehended, as the waters do not surge through it with the force and swiftness of Seymour Narrows, yet it requires all the alertness and skill of Captain Car roll and his pilots to navigate It. We were on the hurricane deck adjoining the bridge, for no tourist should miss a single part of this scenic passage and watched and listened Intently. "Hard-a-port!" "Starboard!" "Steady!" "Hold!" and "Let her go!" are con stantly heard from the captain, as he cautiously paces the deck from side to side, as our beautiful Queen floats around these buoys that locate the hid den reefs and shallow places. The oc casion Is one that calls forth expres sions of admiration from each passen ger at the skill of the officers In charge of the big steamer. Through these narrows the tide var ies from fourteen to twenty-three feet, and salmon who enter here with the tide manoeuver around to the foot of a fall, leap Its eight foot rise at high tide and swim to a mountain lake. Here nre most luxuriant stretches of grassy siopes, canea "scotcn Heather." which embrace many lawn acres. These beau- ii tuny woooeo snores, right in this re gion or solitude, surpass anvthlnir In the way of channlng and Impressive scenery we have yet encountered, and the landscape crows more and more sublime the farther north we go; the snow peas oecome more numerous and seem nearer by; the blue of the foot hills become more and more Intense and tne crimson , and yellow ferns and granses grow more luxuriant and pic turesque. FIRST GLACIER. Emerging from the Narrows Into 'Trlnce Frederick 8ound" new visions of grandeur await our wondering gaze. Here we get our first glimpse of an Alaskan glacier, which bears the name of Patterson and rises boldly 6.000 feet above an inlet off St. Thomas Bay and pours over and down a great slope, showing a beautiful blue and white front, and rises a solid ioe wall over seven hundred feet high. Early navi gators say It dropped frequent Icebergs from its cliffs to the water. At the front of "Horn Cliffs," at the foot of the glacier, a magnificent water fall sets off the scene. Its serpentine form is seen winding over the mountains where it is finally eclipsed by the towering magnificence of "Devil's Thumb," a re markable monolith pointing its spire heavenward nearly 9,000 feet a land mark seen for a great distance.. Here the tourist enjoys exquisite and unique erects of glances of sunlight from clouds to glacier. In the distance, If the weather be pleasant, and the at mosphere clear, can be seen "Stlkeen Glacier," up the Stiklne river, near the Canadian boundary, where Professor John Muir says 1b "a Yosemite 100 miles long," and where he counted 100 of the 300 glaciers from his canoe in 1879, Caps, B. T. eooDS! which drain directly Into th kHiklna river. ' Le Coot-Glacier." laying oft I Conte Bay. and "Balrd 0!dar.M off Thomas Bay. which looms up 6.M1 (tat Into the clouds; DAILY BULLETIN. Ot noon Captain Carroll posts the fol lowing; bulletin: ALASKA EXCURSION, 8EA80N OF 1Kb. l.NO. i). Dally Time Table. Aug. 14. MM. Lt at Moon; tit Degrees, v Minutes, Nona. Long, at Noon, 13S Degrees, 23 lllnutea, West. Distance run, K7 Miles. V will sail through the followinr chan nels during the next twenty-four hours. If not detained by thick weather: Stephen B Passage and Qastlnrau Channel. Will ar- -rive at Juneau about p. m. and remain until 7 a. m. tomorrow; cross to Treadwell Mines, arriving 7.3D . m. Ball at )) a. m. for Takon Glacier. Arrive at Takon about 13.30 p. m where we will remain several hours, taking on our supply of lca Parsenger do not load at Takon Glacier. (Signed) James Carroll. Commander, PRINCE FREDERICK SOUND. Rounding Cape Fanshaw, our course is through "Stephen's Passage" for seventy miles to Juneau, the metropolis of Alaska. This passage, proper, la strait sixty-three miles long by four teen miles wide at the widest place, and narrows down to one and a half miles. It Is filled with numerous Islands navig able with safety only by daylight, and having a depth from 100 to 200 fathoms. The trip Is enlivened by the frequent jump of salmon and the play and sport ing of schools of porpoises and the spouting of whales. The sound Is a fa vorite breeding ground of whales, and in these safe, deep waters one sees the. leviathans frisking, and Infant spout ers taking their first lessons. The fly. Ing eagle, the leaping salmon, the spout ing whales are difficult subjects for th amateur photographer to handle. Ths Indians In their frail looking canoes are frequently seen gliding over the water. Every one ot these little lnol dents are hailed with enthusiasm and form a part of the pleasure of ths voy age. The glacier acenery Increases wlh In terest as we proceed. On the westward Is "Admiralty Island," a snow-capped, wooded mountain range 100 miles long. Half -of the way our view Is cut off by "Glass Peninsular." Passing "Sum Dum Bay" on the right (meaning the noise of falling Ice) we behold a mag nificent panorama of glnclersi - First is Young Glacier, next Yosemite, near Roaring Inlet, and at Tracy Inlet Is Toyatte Glacier and continuing on to within twelve miles of Juneau, Taku Inlet opens to view a scries of glaciers and waterfalls winding down and through the mountains, visible for long distance. Takou glacier Is ths prominent one, showing an ice front a mile wide and one hundred feet high. A further description of this glacier win appear later. Wo now enter Gas tlneaux Channel, a rlver-llke body of water that separates the mainland from Douglass Island, and soon reach the mining town of Juneau, the most populous settlement In all Alaska, and thus ends our fourth day's Itinerary. J E. Richmond. Qalckly.Thsrsaghly, Forever Cared. Four out of fivs who suffer nervousness, mental worry, attacks of "the bines." but paying the penalty of early excesses. Vlo tlins, reclaim yoor manhood, regain your vigor. Don't despair. Send for book with explanation and proofs. Mailed (sealed) free. ERIE MEDICAL CO., Buffalo, N.Y. Etc. HOLMAN. VERY LOWEST