f r - 9 vTC? jKOTy ESS VivM Descr iptkut of the Wonders of MR. RICHJIOSD'S ITINERARY tsa Pictures of the BssatlM is the Wo dcrf al Laad of tas Norta-A Qlaaes " at Missionary Work Asaoat ; the Cannibal. - Written for The Tribune. .. We parted with our reader at mld ' night, when lingering on deck with Captain Carroll, aa be entertained hi enthusiast admirers while witnessing " ti aurora borealia in all Its grandeur. ' Tills magnificent display of. northern i lights aurpaases 'all uescrlptlon. "This luminous ' meteoric phenomenon ap pears In glowing streams of light run ning upward towards the zenith, where it spreads In varying colors from pale yellow and orange to a deep red most wonderful in brilliancy." It Is a sight that once witnessed is never forgotten by the beholder. As daylight comes on we are again on the lookout, and still not In Alaska. For two days have we been sailing In British waters and must rontinue thereon until 2 p. m. today be fore we can enter our own wonderland again. The thought that our own pos sessions must be cut In twain by those of a foreign country and on this contin ent ot America too, sends a chill over us hard to remove- I doubt not that every- American- passenger's enthusi asm was slightly chilled with the cold reflection that all tills gratia scenery and waterway that wo have traversed, Is English; even the breakwater (Van couver Island) which protects the great .inland sea (the Gulf of Georgia) is not ours is not American. . . The longer we travel here, the morn intensified 4a the feeling thut none of this glorious domain should be owned and controlled by a foreign nation. Und hasten the time when by a peaceable annexation the Union Jack will give way to Old Glory and only the Stars and Stripes wjll wave over every inch of ground on tne American continent. Purine the night our noble steamer made its way through Fltihurh Sound und several straits and channels; Cap tain Carroll has so- wisely planned this , . round trip that what we fail, to see on our outward voyage, can be seen on the return passage. At the upper end of Fltzhutrh Sound, , a surprise awaits us by a sudden turn . ing about of the steamer, whose helm is put hard-a-starboard and swings into "Lama Passage," which presents to the perplexed tourist something the ... shape of "an half-open jack knife." This passage Is a narrow and beautiful wooded waterway fifteen miles long. Its northern shore Is broken at one place by an Indian graveyard, with kennels of tombs painted with totemio designs and many flags and streamers Hying from tall poles. On the opposite cove, on Campbell Island, we pass the - native village of Bella-Bella. Here is a model Indian town, with a mis sion church, school, store and cabins shining In their beauty and apparent cleanliness. The church tplres, ' the white-washed cottages, th cattle on the cleared hills, gives the place quite a civilized aspect. There are said to be about twenty-five white men here and 400 Indians. The Bella-Bella camp, some eighty miles up among the mount ""fains, come here to trade. These tribes was long the most treacherous, blood thirsty and turbulent of any tribes that the Hudson Bay company had to deal witn. IN SEAFORTH CHANNEL. From Lama Passage we emerge Into the- broad Seaforth Channel. The scenery here Is by far the finest yet peen. Its beauty Is greatly enhanced by atmospheric effects, utterly unlike any thing that ninety-nine out of one nun dred of our fellow passengers have ever seen. The sun set, too, as seen on our return voyage presented a jcene of In descrlbable grandeur." As betore stat ed, we remained on deck with Captain Carroll and others to behold the most resplendent Illuminations we ever wit' nessed. The author, the artist . even, everybody on board, declared in "rap ture that no pen or brush can depict the beauty of these, midnight Alaskan scenes. .';. ,. r v V' . ;, . We headed north and west from fteaY forth Channel into' Sfilbank Sound, about an eight irdle-ruri, and here we look to sea for a brief half-hour. and then plunge into Finlayson Channel, another typical waterway of this In land passage, like a great river twenty four miles long and from one to two ; miles wide' with depths tf fifty to 160 fathoms. The shores are bold and the wooded mountains rise to even 3,000 feet with perpetual snow. Here islands suc ceed Islands and mountains succeed mountains, and here we see glacier paths on the lofty so-called pyramidal -"Stripe Mountain," 2,000 feet high, Showing brilliant stripes of white reaching to heights where solitude reigns supreme. The scenery Increases in charm as the steamer passes through "Hie Hlsh. Narrows," a quarter of a mile wide. Here are beautiful water falls that dash down the precipitous heights like silvery channels on a deep green background. They say all these little streams abound in salmon, giving the Indians a bountiful supply. Twenty-four miles bring the steamer into Wright Sound first through Gra ham Reach, seventeen rhtles, followed ' TteOottolmtTSMsuiM in-CbttoUiu" UdftMr'f , so tm KtM sleni wrest. wy tin, TH3 N. K. PAIRBANK COMPANY, ' ' ' -, OMssswyr,WMelMla, S ' by Prater Reach, then McKay's Reach continues the panorama for the next seven miles. Wright Sound" Is like a lake, irreg ular in form and entered by five or six different channels. AU around this sleeDlna- beauty" rise numerous dome- shaped mountains as sentlnal guards. On passenger says "It recalls his view of the capltol dome at Washington on approaching that city.", wny mat dome is only 300 feet high, while sev eral of these "bald heads" are from two to three thousand feet high over looking the deck of our steamers, as giant sentinels. One was "The Old Man," rising 2.000 feet from the water's edge, which far surpasses the "Old Man of the Mountain." in the White Moun tains of New Hampshire. Another fea ture is Its great depth of water, where no bottom is found at 225 fathoms Here submerged peaks stand as Islands. At "Hartley Harbor." Is a village of Christian Indians, who were formerly members of Evangelist Duncan s com- munltyof Old Mettakakhv Here is a church, school house, saw mill. etc. We are now getting farther enough north to make the .sight of perenlal snow a familiar one, with which the name of Alaska Is principally associated In the mind of most persons not in Alaska yet. We next enter "Greenville Chan nell," that lies between Pitt Island and the main land. It is forty-five miles long, straight as an arrow, without bend or break, and here are further scenes of wonderful beauty arJ sub- iimuy on ine glacier oruer. iiere ore mountains several thousand feet high unnamed, for no white man has ever visited them, and cascades which seem to tumble from the sky Itself and through the openings glaciers and aval anches are seen. In some places the channel is so narrow that an ocean steamer like the New Turk or St. Paul would touch both sides of the passage. Soon the Channel expands and we pass through a narrow straight known as "Arthur Passage," with Kennedy Is land on the right and Porcher Island on the left and the fresh water of Skeena river entering from the contin ent on the east and mountains nearly 8.000 feet high guarding it. This river we are told was the greatest salmon stream on the continent, comprising over a hundred fishing boats and the canneries producing eight thousand cases of salmon each season. Continuing . our .course through the Malacca passage, we enter the broad expanse of Chatham sound, the last channel traversed In British domain, and a royal sheet of water It Is, too, forty miles long and ten miles wide, and the three hours' sail upon its bos om gives the tourist another taste of the swells from the broad Pacific. Here are many fine views of distant moun tain ranges; the one lying back of Fort Simpson on the right is the massive Mount McNeill, 4.500 feet high. Our course through Chatham sound Is charming; no fog. no rain to obstruct our extended vision. On the left are the three Dundos islands, with their snow-capped peaks, while on the right Is the famed Chim-sy-an, or Tslmpsean peninsula, thirty-two miles long, and connected with the mainland by a nar row strip hardly a mile wide. On this peninsula is Old Metlakatla and Fort Simpson. Probably thus far on our trip no spot has excited so much Inter' est, especially, among Christian travel ers, as these are two famed places, the scene of the early labors, successes and struggles of William Duncan, the de voted layman of the Church of Eng land, which I will refer to In a later paragraph. Fort Simpson is sixteen miles north of Old Metlakatlah, an Im portant post of the Hudson Bay com pany In 1631, now an Indian village, where the Queen will stop on our re turn trip. AN ATtCTlC'PROViNCE. The first glimpse of Alaska Is Cape Fox, on Tongue island, and Dixon en trance IS the boundary line between British Columbia and our polar prov ince beyond, whose blue mountains we gee in the distance. ' Tongue island is the home of a tribe of' Indians, who scarcely number three-score, a rem nant of a once numerous and powerful tribe. They occupy the site of old Fort Tongas, which for eight years after "Alaska was acquired by our govern ment was the headquarters of a com pany of United States troops, where was a custom house, but both . have been given up. on account of the exces sive rainfall, which has reached here to lt8 inches in a single year. We do not land here, but a good view is af forded from the deck of the vessel. Here totem poles are numerous. A half mile from the fort is their chief .village, where twenty-four massive totem poles guard the semi-circle of ruined lodges. At noon Captain Carroll posts the. fol lowing bulletin:' ; ALASKA EXCURSIONS, SEASON OF isao. Tuesday. Aug. 13. 1895. Dally Time Table (No. 2.). Latitude at Noon, 64 Degrees, 23 Minutes, North. Longitude at Noon, 130 Degrees, 37 Min utes West. Distance Run, 324 Miles. We will sail through the following chan nels during the next twenty-four hours, if not detained Dy tnicx weatner, vis.: vtiav ham Straits, Dixon's Entrance, Revllla Qliredo Channel. Tonirass Narrows. Clur ence Strait, Stlklne Strait, Summer Strait, Wrangle Narrows. Frederick Sound. We will cross the boundary line between Alaska and British Columbia at 2 p. m. Arrive at Mary Island custom house about 4 p. m., and remain long enough to make entry of steamer passengers, but do not land. Will arrive at New MetlnkahtU about 7 p. m., and remain one hour' and one-half. Arrive at Fort Wrangle about o.au a. m. tomorrow. (Signed) James Carroll, Commander. ENTER ALASKA. We cross the boundaiy line in latl tude 54 degrees and 40 minutes, and enter Alaska at Dixon entrance, an arm of the Pacific ooean, and in twenty miles sight Mary's Island, our first stopping place. Henceforth, our voy age lies through the remarkable "Alexandria Archipelago." which is over WO miles from south to north and 75 miles from east to west, among a be wildering collection of mountain-studded rocks, straits. Inlets and passages, extending through nearly five degrees of latitude and seven degrees of longi tude as yet but partially explored. Here are said to be thousands of islands, densely covered with forests and on each is seen a -vast fall of dead timber Indicative of great age, besides monarchs of fir, spruce and cedar and hemlock of great height and circumfer ence. All this In a wilderness almost untouched by the pale face. Day after day. from morn till night, the tourist's eight is surfeited with an ever shifting panorama of this rugged primitive wilderness. PORTLAND CANAL. This much explored and surveyed, discussed and disputed, boundary line Ictv.een Alaska and British Columbia is on our right and extends eastward as the eastern limit sixty miles Into the heart of the coast range. It is walled In by mountains from 3.000 to 4.000 feet high at its entrance, while those at the east end are said to tower to twice that eight. At the time of the Alaska pur chase the surveyors named these heights on our side. In honor of some of the distinguished Americans then living Seward, Adams.Reverdy, John son, Halleck, Peabody while Lincoln's name graces other peaks and ranges. Leaving the picturesque Portland Inlet on the right, our course Is northward through Dixon Sound Into "Clarence Strait," which is 107 miles long and no where less than four miles In width. Throughout tills strait we have the great "Prince of Wales" Island on the west. (The reader will unuersianu while the name Is thoroughly English. the island belongs to America.) The southern portion of this noted Island Is the home of the Hvdah Indian trioe. noted for their marvelous skill In carv ing. Their artistic skill Is best exem plified In Its spoons, carved out of the horn of the mountain goat, and mini ature totems cut In dark slate stone: also the unique "Hydah Indian Hat" and "work baskets," delicately woven from native bark of which we secured tiMtirianme Rnectmenn. In twenty miles after crossing tne boundary and about 4 p. m: we sight the White Government buildings on Mary Island. The Queen blows a snrill whistle and presently the stars and stripes are hoisted on the United States custom house staff, the steamer siacs, ens her speed, and soon, drops her an chor, while Captain Carroll Is taken ashore In a row boat to execute sucn papers as are necessary to comply with the laws and enable the steamer to proceed northward. Shortly the captain returns with a deputy collector, who boards the steamer, and makes the trip to Sitka and return, whose business Is to see that no whiskey or other contra band goods are landed or taken on board the vessel. After a three-tlmes-three-cheers for 'Old Glory." the Queen swings on her course oft the main route some fifteen miles among the Gravina groupe of Islands to "New Mettakahtla," which lies quietly resting on a long pebbly crescent-shaped beach on Annette Is land. This colony was founded by the Indefatigable missionary apostle, Wil liam Duncan, in 1887. Here I muBt pause to tell the wonderful story of Metlakahtla. The work of raising a race of Indians from cannibalism to a high state of Christian civilization. Were I to recount all the Incidents have heard on this trip, relating to the work of this good man, it would require several columns, i will enaeavor, now ever, to confine myself to a single con (tensed paragraph. WORK OF THE MISSIONARY. Some thirty-eight years ago a young Englishman by the name of William Duncan, came from England as a lay worker for the "Church Mission So ciety," In response to Admiral Prevost's account of the terrible condition of na tlve life on this coast On his arrival all the Hudson Bay company's officers tried to dissuade him from going to Fort Simpson, where from frequent acts of barbarism the worst savages were congregated. But this young mission ary at the age of twenty-one. having solemnly dedicated his life to the cause of raising the Indian race from the degradation of savagery to civilization and Christianity without fear, cast his lot in this hot bed of c annlbalism. Within three years he had learned the language and so thoroughly converted fifty or these Indians that they fol lowed him to an abandoned Tslmsian settlement, Metlakatla, and established a colony that In the words of Lord Duf fernls, "a work that stands absolutely without a parallel In the history of mis sions." Taught by their devoted friend they cleared, drained and cultivated the land, learned to saw logs, build houses. can salmon and engage in nearly every branch of business that would utilize the products of the country. They built a village or tiuy two-story cottages. church edifice that would do credit to many a larger white settlement, school house, co-operative store and cannery. They formed a village coun ell of elders, a fire brigade, a brass band; became carpenters, cabinet-makers, shoe, cooper, tanning and rope makers and the women were taught weaving, sewing and cooking. It was mouei coiony ana for twenty-four years the peace and prosperity of 800 meiiaKatians were unuroKen. But In 1881 Bishop Bldley, of the Church of England, severely criticised and objected to the form of the simple n h.,i,l rr"'a' ana tne omission of the communion service, and sent a representative among them and insisted that that por tion of the sacrament wherein wine Is administered and which Mr. Duncan nau, irom prudential reasons, ignored, should be observed. Mr. Duncan gave his reason for not carrying out this Important tenet of the church, which was that he had found his greatest trouble In teaching natives to avoid intoxicating drinks, and If he per mitted wine at the sacrament his peo ple would not understand whv thev should not Indulge In liquor at other limes. MR. DUNCAN RESIGNS. TV . . . . . air. uuncun convictions were so strong tnat ne declared that If his plans were interfered with he would rest and remove his people, like pilgrims of oia, to a country wnere they could ex ercise religious liberty untrammeled. Tne interference was persistent, the cnurcn ruling was insistent, and Mr. Duncan resigned his missiun. The re. suit was that the bishop established himself among them, but failed to win the respect and confidence of the com munity. "He quarreled with the head men; ne strucK tnem with his fists; he carried a rifle, and called for a man-oN war to protect him." The people wbsi-'u me Disnnp to go away and Mr. uuncan to return. The church and state upheld the bishop and claimed the community property as church property. Meantime Mr. Duncan vis Ited Washington and exolalned the sit uatlon to the president, told him of the effort to supplant him with another minister among the people to whom he had devoted his life. He sought aid and protection of our country for his people, ms cause was powerfully cnampioneu Dy tne late lamented Rev, Henry Ward Beecher and Phillips Brooks and also the religious press. Receiving assurances that our govern ment would offer an asylum to his people where they could enjoy religious freedom, and that, action would be taken by congress looking to their nro tectlon, Mr. Duncan returned to -Metlakatla and proposed emigration to the Unltod States side (Alaska). Accord ingly on March 3, 1891, congress nassed a 'bill setting aside Annette Island for the use and benefit of these Christian Ised Tslmslam Indiana But when ready to leave tne Canadian author! ties prevented the pilgrims taking any thing but their personal property with tea)j' fn retore this Moses of the In dians, with ' S0 of his people, aban doned their homes, their property, ev erything but a few household goods. and went out from under British rule to abide under the protection of the Btars and Htnoes rorever. It was no small sacrifice for this once savag people to leave their houses, mills, canneries works of their own hands Intact, as church property. lor tne 1-tj oi tnetr number wno re mained with the bishop. ' But the empty dwellings soon fell to decay, the clearing partly relapsed to under brush, the large church was partitioned off to hold the handful of worshipers, and when a 'few years later the bishop departed the ruin was complete; and to quote the words of Skldmore, "Tne nearly deserted village remains as a monument of misdirected religious seal, of civil Injustice and oppression, the shame and reproach of church and state." This old abandoned village Is In plain sight of passing vessels and an object of great Interest to the tourist. THEIR NEW HOME. Their new home, though won after much tribulation, is Just as good, clean and delightful as a New England town. On August 7. 1887. Mr. Duncan planned dedicatory service. The new cnurcn bell was tolled, the Indians and the officers and passengers grouped togeth er. Prayers were offered, psalms or thanksgiving were chanted by all the natives in their own tongue. Spiritual sorgs were sung by the passengers. Breeches u"f congratulation as well as of protection were offered by the Invit ed guests and in the presence of United Mutes Commissioner Dawson the cap tain and sixty passengers of the steam er Ancon. a gun salute was fired and the Stars and Strlnes were unfurled with the promised protection of our free American government. The old totem poles were destroyed (suve two given to the Hike Museum), the town was apportioned Into town lots and the New Metlakatlahans began anew, building their present attractive vil lage, which Is suld by all to be a mar vel. ' 1 regard It as a great pleasure and high honor to land here, und to gether with our distinguished vice pres ident and other passengers to grasp the hand of the veteran Apostle, and learn from his lips of the wonderful progress In civilization made by this people. . It was an unexpected pleasure to be es corted by him through his cannery. where were laying In trenches hundreds and perhaps a thousand of fresh caught salmon, weighing from four to twenty pounds each, and watch that process of canning by these people formerly a race of savages, but now Christian neighbors. Rev. Mr. Meyers tells of two row-boats thatAad Just arrived by the wharf with a day's haul of over 2,000 salmon of twelve to thirty pounds each, and thrown on the landing like so many blocks of wood. One of the Indians tallies on the slate and a round 1160 Is credited to the two craft for the day's toll. I never saw BUch a pile of fish. Their process of canning sal mon Is Interesting-as well as skillful. For short, they are scraped and cleaned, cut Into small strips or bltsT cleansed, then put Into pint and quart tin cans, set on iron crates, wheeled Into boiler steamers, taken out, sealed and labeled with a rapidity simply astonishing. The daily output of this cannery is 800 cans, which are sent into the markets of the world. These In dlans can their ' salmon for east em markets from six to eight thousand cases every year. They punnsn ana edit their own newspaper. They maintain all kinds of business of a civilized community, including co operative stores, photographers, silver smiths and the colony is In fact a self- supporting, even money-making Indus trial settlement, and the .capacity of the Indians ror civilization is here fully demonstrated. I can truly say this vil lage anu us inhabitants is indeed a wonder or tne age.iand stands a last ing monument of the benefits of Chris tianity to these Bar ages, who it has cleaned, educated and civilized, even the vices of the white man have been removed from thiB v Iclnitv. it is simply tantalizing that our limit or time (on account of tide) does not admit of our remaining lonater. and amid the martial music of the Indian band of twenty pieces playing "Hall Columbia" in honor of our distin guished vice president and an au revoir from Mr. Duncan and his co-worker. Dr. Bluett, the only two white men at Metlekatlah, we steam awav on our course to Fort Weangel, through Tpn- gass, narrows, liellm. Canal and Clapi ence Strait, a night passage, where we win arrive at early morn. Thus endeth our tnira days' Itinerary. John E. Richmond, The Nickel Plate Road runs along tne snore ol Lane tine and through Erie,- Cleveland, Fostorla and Fort wayne. SAKCASTIC PEOPLE. "How many people will this car seat?" inquired tne loquacious passenger. "Women or men?" axked the conductor, -.nioago evening r obi. "It Is sad," said one girl, "that so many men nowadays have a great deal more money thaw brains." "Yes," sighed another; "and so little money at tnat." Washington Star. Hatterson "I have been trying to teach my baby to stoo ilrlnklna- from a bottle." Catterson "I should imagine that would be a pretty hard thing for you to do." i rui n. Professor of Languages "Are you well acquainted witn your motner tongue: Mr. New Wed "Not so well as my moth' er-in-iaw tongue. 'Texas Hillings. . Tha strong man sobbed. "Though you spurn me." he faltered, am not disheartened. 'Ti darkest Just be- nuwn. She flung opn the shutters and gazes lorin. "I believe you are right," she murmured, I never noticed particularly before Even then he seemed not to realize thnt the night had worn on apace. Detroit Trioune. A TEMPTION OVERCOME. "SS A thirsty looking man wandered into State street saloon the' other ovenlni;. throw in rents down on the counter, and saia nusKiiy: "Olmme a blB glass." The decanter and a larire tumbler w."ro placed In front of him, and he began to Diiur Out a drink. When the tumbler was half full he stopped and looked at It ns If estimating me quanmy as (ompareu wiin the size or nis inirst. 'i nn result up uenred to be unsatisfactory. He re. sumed pouring and nfowly tilled the gloss within half an Inch of the tup. The bartender hastily took off his coat and vest, removed his collar and necktie, anil then hesitated. "No." he finally said, putting; on the gar ments again, i u uae nrsi rate to go in swimming with you, but It's too blamed cold! Chicago Tribune. KEV. L. W.S110WERS Gives His Experience With Organic Heart Diseaso-The Dread Malady on the Increase For many years my greatest enemy has been heart disease. From an uneasiness nbout the heart with palpitation more or lens severe, It hail developed Into abnor mal action, thumping, fluttering and chok ing sensutlons. Dull pain with a peculiar warm feellnn were ever present near the heart. I have tried many physicians ami taken numberless remedies with very lit tle benefit. Hoeing Dr. Agnew's Cure for the Heart advertised In the Kittanninir, Pa., papers, I purchased a bottle and be- fan Its use. receiving almost instant reller. have now taken several bottles of the remedy and can speuk most highly In its favor. The choking,' abnormal beating, thumping and palpitation have almost en tirely disappeared ' The remedy is cer tHlnly a wonder-worker, tor my case was ("hronlo. Rev. L. V, HhbwerM, Klderton, Pa., f old by Matthews, Bros. ' . ; V'. Hoard of Heath nn Wine. :Dr. Janes, of the New- York Board of Health, sayst ..-.... "1 take great pleasure In testifying; to the -superior qualities of the -Port Wine produced by Alfred Bneer, of New Jersey, After a prolonged trial t recommend It as a superior wine, for the sick and debili tated." - . It is kept In casks to a great age,hefore bottling, and though higher In nrlce la far superior and more reliable than other wines. 11 "M For Men. No remedy has ever equaled War ner's Safe Cure in curing every form of liver and kidney complaint. If you are troubled in this wav and are ex periencing such symptoms as biliousness, headaches, .backarhes, nervous ness, dizziness, constipation, apd tlredteelings, it will give you speedy relief. Remember that Warner's Safe Cure la not an untried remedy oran experiment but a scientific preparation prescribed and recommended by . eminent physicians all over the world. Thousands have testified to Its wonderful curative effects. It Is the best remedy In existence -for-any man who needs fresh life, energy and health. . 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