THE SCILLNTON 'TEIBTmE SATURDAY MOENING APML 4, 189ft.
GREATEST OF ALL WONDERS
fkt 'Literally Indescribable Grand
Canyon of the Yellowstone.
f HB IMAGINATION GROWS DUMB
Before Thla Overpowerls sad Maltl
' fkrlosa Bpaetaole of Nalara Laiar
istlnt la I'aexpeetsd aad I'.pre
" " eedsated Seaala Effects.
IWrlttea for The Trlbuna
The end of our flfth day'a Journey
finds ua at the Lake Hotel. We arrive
at the Lake Hotel at four o'clock on the
afternoon of the fifth day, three hours
ahead of the scheduled carriage ride,
and In time for a two hours' fish In
Yellowstone Lake. Both lake and river
aboUnd in trout and those who love to
wield the rod will spend the early even
ing after arrival in the best trout fish
ing lake in the world. Immediately
after our arrival wedellver our speckled
beauty trophy to receive the finishing
touches for the evening meal where
upon Captain Waters courteously
places at our disposal Ms fsfvorlte skirt
"for a good fish." of which all tourists
are eager to avail themselves Immedi
ately. We also had a chance to photo
graph on the fly a big black bear who
had the previous night entered the pen
and killed one of Captain Waters' valu
able pigs. We, of course, courageously
chose the latter adventure, leaving the
fishing experience till later, as we were
ure-of the fish any time, but not of
bruin.
With two guides, one of whom was
Bill Germune. of cowboy fame, we
started for the woods just back of the
hotel. Bruin evidently anticipated our
visit for he came forth out of the woods
to meet us and wht-n within a hundred
yards stopped. Here was Kodak
chance No. 1. It Is only fair to say
that a feeling of retreat came over us,
but bruin saved us that trouble by re
treating himself. A "whoop" from Bill,
who was uresslns- the bear closely, ar
rests the latter'a attention, when bruin
nimln stons. Bivlns- us' snap No. 2,
quickly followed by a third snap, when
a. Ilvelv seatfiDeiinff follows, both
iruldes. bruin, and the writer going In
the same direction, namely, towards the
hotel. With the aid of Captain Waters'
doga a running attack Is made across
the lawn fronting tne notei amia fx
cited merriment of the guests who wit
ness the escapade ' from their windows
and veranda. To the oy of everyone,
bruin was eventually treed, and from
an adjacent stump, some thirty feet
away, amid the howling of the dogs
and excited guests, came kodak No. 4,
with bruin peering between two limbs
defiantly at his raptors. A courageous
feat for the writer, unexpectedly and
unaccountablv made, thus securing
memento highly prised, subject to the
InsDeetlon of the reader. This is a
bear story, but a true one,
A CATCH OF FISH.
Meantime. President C. J. Ives and
family, availing themselves of similar
courtesies extended Dy captain w aiers,
rowed out to the mouth of the Yellow
stone river and. with the new rod that
waa to work a "new miracle of Fishes
before the sun went down," returned In
about two hours with a catch of eighty
three salmon, rainbow and silver trout.
none of which was said to weigh less
than two nounds. This wonderrui
catch we photographed upon their
landing, as Illustrated by the accom
panying cut. The fishermen here use
Ions lines, containing two artificial nies,
uhinh often hrinir in two beauties at a
time. The lake trout differ from the
brook trout, although they are beauti
fullv snHL-kled. The flesh looks like the
flesh of a salmon, yellow. The lake Is
.ntireiv destitute of all Ash save trout,
There are millions of them In the lake
and ara the onlv thing, except mos
qultoes, that you dare to catch and kill
in th nark. They, are very large and
voracious In the extreme, especially for
grasshoppers and "two men can eaten
them faster than six men can get them
ready to cook." .
There are several localities around
the lake where the angler can land his
fish and drop them Into boiling pools
without unhooking his victim, but
whether it Is safe to eat them to any
great extent Is somewhat questionable,
"for most of them," says one authority,
"are Infested with long, slender, white
worms, which not only breed In the
Intestines, but burrow In the flesh."
Not all of the trout are thus affected,
for perfectly healthy specimens are of
ten caught, which show on their
scarred bodies the places where their
tormentors have bored them. This Is
a fascinating sport, where the amateur
holds his own with the most expert
fisherman.
Not only does the lake teem with Its
millions of trout, but you find on It all
manner of wild birds, geese, cranes,
ducks, gulls, pelicans, hawks, ravens
and king fishers. The hawk here, like
the eagle, Is the robber of the smaller
Ash-eating birds as they arise from the
water with their prey. The woods
around the hotel abound in game, but
as before stated, they live here free
from the fear of man.
YELLOWSTONE LAKE HOTEL.
This hotel is located near the outlet,
where the river leaves the lake, at what
they call the "Wrist." It stands on a
bluff which Blopes down to the lake and
the View Is a commanding one facing
this silver sheet of water as far as the
ye can reach. Such a grand and glori
ous mirror Nature has seldom given to
man In which to behold the reflection of
the dense forest and noble mountains
which surround it. From Its broad
veranda almost all of the noble moun
tains referred to In a former letter, are
visible. This view would please an en
' thuslast. This spacious and well ap
pointed hotel, so far from civilization,
tends greatly to make the lake the re
sort par excellence of the Park. Here
FORENOON CATCH AT YELLOWSTONE LAKE.
(Photographed by the Author,)
guests can remain as long as they de
sire, making short and easy trips of
sight-seeing and explorations to all
points In the Park. Any lover of nature
m Its primitive form cap enjoy himself
to the highest degree for the entire sea
son here. . 1
The further we go Into the park the
better the hotels seem toy us. Here we
found steam-heat and elefctrlc lights In
nearly a hundred rooms, to,tn not and
cold bath facilities. This Hotel Is new,
.cheerful and with Its delightful sur
roundings Is the moat restful spot we
i have yet reached. Every manager
throughout the park Is a thoroughly
' trained hotel man, and a gentleman;
and considering- the many disadvant
ages the meals and service are superb.
The meats are excellent and hare we dls-
.severed that the hotel company oper-
tea refrigerator wagons to distribute
Its meats to the hotels ana -luncn
rooms" of the Park. Each Hotel employs
fisherman, who supplies the tables
with trout; fresh brook trout Is a staple
article on all tables during the entire
park tour. Every hotel has Its own Jer
sey cows.
THE ANIMAL KINGDOM.
The Park Is a splendid place to study
human nature. We meet all sorts of
humanity here. The tourists are strong
ly reminded that they are far from the
haunts of civilisation Dy tne presence
In the surrounding woods of the animal
kingdom. Animal nature can. there
fore, also be studied.. This is no hunt-
lne? around "Here man and beast re
nounce hostilities and come into friend
ly relations with each other." Tne .do
mains of the park are a haven of ref
uge to ail animal kind, except from
poachers. The animals seem to know
this and resort here in great numbers.
Bear, deer, elk, antelope, buffalo, moun
tain sheep, and all other varieties of
wild animals are here and sometimes
seen as the stages roll along, and al
ways at the hotels. They grow very
tume and molest no one. Indeed, the
bears are scavengers for the hotels and
aftord much amusement to the guests,
who flock out at early evening to see
bruin feast at the garbage box just back
of the hotel and when well-fined, go
waddling away to the woods from
whence he came. They are perrectiy
Indifferent to the men, women and chil
dren who rush out to see them, unless
KEPLER'S
((holographed
pressed . too hard, " and will hurriedly '
walk away. If the garbage supply is
not sufficient to satisfy their hunger,
they don't hesitate to steal the milk
from the milkman, if they can do so,
slyly by not making an attack.
They browse and feed In the woods
and porks, scarcely concerned at the
presence of man or vehicle. They es
pecially enjoy human companionship,
and are often playful and apparently
harmless.
A little Incident occurred at Upper
Oeyser Basin, which I will relate. Man
ager Howe has a huge black bear that
weighs six hundred pounds. The ant
mal sleeps under the house and Is so
tame that he meanders Into the office
and recetlon roomps and the guests
often feed him. We secured photo
graphs of Manager Howe In the act of
feeding htm from a plate, and in a re
clining position. Strange as It may
seem, old woodsmen and hunters say.
"they act as though they were under
a kind of protection." Truly Yellow
stone Park Is intended to be and Is a
Paradise for these dumb animals. The
government scouts estimate that there
are 25,000 elk In the park. Deer are
fast becoming numerous. The buffalo
are more seclustve than the elk or deer
and are mainly found In the region of
Yellowstone Lake and Hayden Valley,
where in the winter they roam In bands;
once in a while a straggling member Is
found. during the tourist season. There
are from two to three hundred In all,
and these are carefully watched and
kept within the protecting limits of the
reservation. If they can be protected
from the poachers, they will thrive anil
Increase. This remnant represents
about all there Is left of the vast herd
of millions of the most typical of Amer
ican wild animals, that once roamed
over these western plains.
The tourist on referring to the flfth
rule of the park made by the Secretary
of the Interior, "with the Hon. Hoke
Smith as Czar." will read: "Hunting,
capturing, Injuring, or killing any bird
or animal within the park is prohibited.
The outfits of persons found hunting,
or in possession of game killed In the
park will be subject to seizure and con
fiscation." For several years this law
was supposed to be adequate, but poach
ing was carried on so vigorously, that
now there Is a law providing a fine of
12,000 and two years In the penitentiary,
for killing game. Our attention Is
called by Captain George S. Anderson,
to one poacher captured last winter,
who killed fourteen buffoloes, and Is now
serving a sentence In prison.
As we take our last look at Yellow
stone lake we are reminded of Mr, O. D.
Wheeler's words, that "the traveler
hangs few such pictures upon the walls
of memory as that- of this beautiful
mountain sea.".. But this, day, what a
.wonderful day a red-leter day; how
T
unlike and distinct from all the days
of our trip. It Is an Ideal day for park
travel, for during the night dame na
ture has smiled upon us and the sudden
change from the depressed dry weath
er of the last few days, freedom from
dust, lime, alkali, etc. Is thoroughly
enjoyed by us all.
From the lake to the canyon Is eight
een mile and the scenlo features grad
ually unfolded, grow stronger and
stronger with each successive mile of
the journey, finally culminating In the
magnificent panorama of the Grand
Canyon Itself, "the greatest master
piece of painting and sculpture of the
world." It seema as if this portion of
the park intended to make up for lack
of geysers by a general landscape far
finer and more beautiful than any yet
witnessed. We hug the Yellowstone
river nearly all the way except where
we cross the beautiful Hayden valley.
Three miles from the hotel near the
outlet of the lake Is a "natural bridge"
of rock which spans "Bridge creek" at
a height of forty feet and affords car
riage room. Along the river anywhere
are seen scores of rainbow and speckled
trout, weighing two and three pounds,
and while resting our horses at this
high ajtitude, the writer ran down to
the river and the instant the line was
thrown caught one only to throw It back
and draw in another, to be repeated
ad Infinitum. ;'..
." mud Volcano. :
Mud geysers are found, about five
miles from the lake along the wagon
CASCADES.
by the Author.)
roads. They consist of several craters
filled with blue pasty mud all emitting
disagreeable odors. After about eight
miles we reach "Mud Volcano," unlike
anything yet seen In the park. It Is
called a volcano, for It has none of the
real characteristics of a geyser. We
alight from our Carriage and visit this
strange phenomenon, only a few rods off
the road. Here Is a deep hole with a
funnel-shaped crater at the base of the
cliff, thirty feet deep.
When first discovered by General
Washburn's party In 1870, "they found
limbs of trees 125 feet high encased in
clay and its scattered contents 200 feet
from It." Now Its violence Is greatly
lessened and the discharges from it
are every two seconds. Like the dull
reports of a mortar gun, thud! thud!'
thud! is heard and from this or I lice
comes a stream In puffs like the pulsa
tion of a great waste pipe of an engine,
which can be heard for a half mile.
Creeping up to the edge, which Is
dangerous to stand near to, we see this
sickening lead-colored mass of mud of
the consistency of soft mortar, con
stantly belching out only to roll back
and choke up its foul throat and be
vomited forth again and again, with
terrible force Into the steaming pit.
From the latter comes the most sicken
ing sulphurous odors. How long this
ugly griffin has been lying there under
this hill no one knows, but It Is unques
tionably the ugliest. freak of Wonder
land. Fire and brimstone are terrible
enough to associate with purgatory, but
the thundering, the groaning, the gulp
ing of this boiling black mudbelchlng
out of this great black .Aivernous
mouth, is truly "Hell tin Earth."
HAYDEN VALLEY.
From this morbidly fascinating scene
we turn with a sense of relief to the
river and a new feature of the land
scape Hayden valley. This of Itself
Is a beautiful park, the largest in the
reservation, extending along the Yel
lowstone river to Alum creek and west
ward to Mary's mountain, seven miles
from the Grand Canyon. It Is six miles
long and ten miles wide, a broad, grassy
expanse with not a tree upon It. It
was once a vast arm of the lake and
comprises some fifty square miles. It
Is well watered by Trout and Alum
creeks and Is frequented by the wild
animals of the country as a "winter re
sort," especially for buffalo, elk and
deer, which are found here In large
numbers. Our guide says a hundred
buffaloes and thousands of elk wintered
here in 1894. The views in this valley
bounded with snow-capped Mount
Washburne rising 10,385 feet high are
grand in the extreme.
At twelve miles on our Journey we
reached "Sulphur Mountain or Crater
HIIIb." We leave the main road and
cross the .valley for a half mile drive to
reach It. It consists of a group of Iso
lated hills or "buttes," each about 150
feet high. The whole surface of this
locality, including large detached rocks.
Is covered with pure sulphur In color
and material. Here pure sulphur can
be shoveled up by the wagon load. The
chief attraction. however, is a large boil
ing spring at the base of the highest
hill. The spring Is 15 by 20 feet in size
and its waters boll un constantly from
t,hree ta Beven feet In height. The fumes
are intensely sulphurous and disagree
able and great clouds of vapor escape
from It. - The whole surrounding sur
face Is covered with myriad little stenm
vents, all highly Impregnated with sul
phur, while the overflow streamlets
have a highly colored yellow border.
This Is dangerous ground to tread upon.
On the west side of the road are numer
ous mud caludronsand springs constant
ly ejecting their muddy paste along the
roadside. - .
NEARING THE CANYON.,- ,
We are now four miles from thrvGraml
Canyon Hotel and the road skirts along
the hanks of the Yellowstone river hun
dreds of feet above It over a rolling
country until we reach "Upper Falls,"
when It deflects from the river and
winds like a letter 8 through a-tlmben
belt across "Cascade Creek," 130 feet
high and climbs the steep hillside to th
'
t- ( cl.
hotel This ride was Intensely Interest- !
ing. 'As the road brings us hear the These wonderful colored and sculptured
Canyon the scenery becomes wilder, forms, pinnacle after pinnacle stand
The stretch of river for a mile above the ! Ing before- us In-this mlchtly cham.
t'pper Falls" is full of rapids, like Nl- :
agara. and the river and road are forced
by the narrowing valley dose together
to within fifty feet, -so that a bridge
from the overhanging rocks could be
easily thrown across. The river here
tumbles over a succession of cascades
and swirling around masses of rocks In
mid stream suddenly rushes over ' a
precipice, at Upper Falls, of 140 icet, a
perpendicular drop, striking the rock for
mation at the bottom of the abyss, and
shooting out rocket-like column plainly
seen from the ledge.. . This Is but an In
troduction, for In a quarter mile the
wild, 'raging river takes another leap of
36(1 feet exactly perpendicular. This Is
called "Lower Falls of the Yellow
stone," of which we will speak later.
We arrive at Grand Canyon Hotel In
time for lunch. This is the last hotel
and one of the largest in the park, with
a capacity for 250 guests and here we re
main two days. From its porch the crest
of the Upper Falls can be seen and the
roar of both cataracts can be heard dis
tinctly. Good, better, best, is the al
most Involuntary exclamation that
breaks forth from our lips, as It does
from the Hps of every tourist who wit
nesses these wonderful scenes. After
lunch we spend the arternoon at the
Canyon and Falls. ...
We are taken by an extra carriage ac
companied by a guide for a ride that
covers not less than three hours, for an
extra charge of one dollar each. These
observation coaches hold ten to twelve
persons comfortably. We have'- the
choice of two courses to see the Can
yon; one to descend the hill along the
trail above the great falls, amid the
cool foliage that covers, the slope and
out upon the platform that overhangs
both canyon and falls; or, to follow the
road or trail that leads parallel to the
canyon and some miles away comes out
to the edge of It. We chose the latter
route for . today's experience, as . we
could stop at pleasure and peer into Its
mighty depths, leaving the nearer for
the morrow.
As the traveller starts out on the ob
servation tour, he has very little con
ception of what Is In. store for him, or
what is hidden just beyond that curtain
of trees on yonder descending slope!
We have heard much, read much, and
formed an Idea of what we will Bee, only
to find that the hundreth part has not
been told. We went down to the Can-,
yon with one set of Impressions from
what we .had read and been told of its
wonders, and returned with other and
higher, those that will tarry with us
as long as mind lasts. ,
... THE GRAND CANYON.
. i You' ask me to picture It? Words can
not convey a proper realization of Its
grandeur and magnificence. . The mind
cannot grasp Grand Canyon,. It glows
with a life of its own. , Words cannot
paint it! .No artist can reproduce the
rain' found here, or depict in language
the beauties of the sunrise, or the sun
set, or the radiance of mid-day, as we
beheld them ail. .-,
It is. not' strange that the canyon, has
been a theme for writer, painter, and
photographer from its. discovery to the
present time. While the canyon is not
by any means as deep, as long nor as
wide as some In our country, there is
none that holds the ' spectator spell
bound as does this." We have seen and
travelled through the Black Canyon,
Royal Gorge, and tho Grand Canyons'
of the Colorado, and travelled In other
lands of canvons on this continent and
been fascinated with their stupendous
scenery. All are grand and glorious and
deserve all that has been said of them,
but they ore in no true sense rivals.
mis great gorge is a greater study, a
greater revelation, a greater, wonder
and deserving of stronger, adjectives
than I am able to provide, or even to
coin, nut I must describe it. Mechani
cally I will; eloquently I cannot. I will
quote later on from some of the distin
guished travellers, men of national rep
utation, proround, . brilliant, -exact
writers, to show thai, what I have
ninted and what has been Written con
cerning this wonder of wonders Is true.
And now. where shall I begin? And
how shall I, in any wise, describe this
tremendous sight Its overpowering
grandeur, and at the same time its In
expressible beauty? - I will only at
tempt an outline. The' Grand Canyon
oi me leuowstone itseir Is vast. . It Is
about twenty-four miles long, ranging
in neignt ironi huu to l.zou feet.: It has
been excavated out of a series of vol
canic rocks by the flow of the river It
self. At the bottom . of the gorge the
width is bnrely sufficient to afford the
river room, as It tears alnriR In Its mad
course. The sides are at most places
flaring, so that at the summit of the
walls the width Is- many hundreds of
feet.- A cross section in the largest
part measures, 2,000 feet at the-top, 200
feet at the bottom, and Is 1,200 feet
deep, giving an area of over three
acres. Like many canyons, It .has no
vegetation whatever. It has been com
pared to a V-shaped Kauri cut out of a
mountain of sulphur. The walls are
colored yellow, bronze, white, red, and
their combinations; but the fttrdhg pre
vailing color Is yellow, next bronze.
and tho next white. Oxidation of iron
causes the red. It is preeminently a
canyon of many colors.
A WILDERNESS OF COLOR.
Thirty-seven different colors adorn
Its walls as our specimens will prove.
These various colored sands are collect
ed and artistically arranged. In. bottles
of fancy shapes and sizes, even to de
signing and spelling- the names of the
various animals, birds, fish, etc., found
In the, park, by Prof. A. Wald, a Nor
wegian, said to be the only artist of the
kind In America. These mementoes
are sod to the tourist at prices- within
the reach of all. The hue has no exist
ence which cannot be found here.
This gorgeous coloring does not ex
tend through the entire length of twen
ty miles, . for In portions, forests
cover the sides of the , canyon. In
places the walls almost shut out the
light of day from the extreme bottom.
Liuetenant Doane, who made the dan
gerous descent severaj miles below the
falls, records, "that It was about three
o'clock p. m., and stars could be dis
tinctly seen, so much of the sunlight
was cut oft from entering the chasm."
SHOSHONE LAKE.
Along the bottom of the canyon steam
vents can be seen, one of which exhibits
geyseiic action. No man can begin to
describe the variety of effect exper
ienced Jn seelns colors, form, depth,
etc., from nnv one cf the many points
of view- offered him; Jle can Bit for
hours at any of these nlHces, climb up
and down the walls, study, and kodak
What he sees, and aim not be able to
grasp and drink it nil In, Grutvd Can
yon iH the nliioe.iT all places' In the
nark where one fvelri-ns thoughhe were
Standing on.the vei'jja.of (the, Infinite.. .
THE GRAND FALLS.
The best' view of the Great or Lower
Falls Is from Lookout Point about half
a mile from them and about 1,000 feet
nhovn the water. The outlook from
here Is certainly one of strlklng-beauty
and near enough to bring out In sufll-
dent detail the erandeur of the falls.
seem to ko down to a beautiful winding
river of r i-terr. railing far below. While
they ranr not one-twentieth of the wa
ter of Niagara, they are far more beau
tiful and must be placed in the front
ranlt.- The telght IS said to be 360 feet,
and the descent very regular, slightly
broken by a rock and owing to the vast
cloud of sptay one-third of the fall Is
bidden from view. The mighty tur
moil, the lotid thunder, among the deep
recesses. Jars the air for miles around.
The river two hundred feet above the
falls Is 250 feet wide, but at the point
where the leap is made it is only one
hundred feet wide.
But. from the dtssy heights of Inspir
ation Point ire get the most lnsplrng
scenes. The far distant falls seem
scarcely' larger than a hand, "a white
sliver sheen set in the center of tree
clad cliffs and mountains," too far away
to hear their roaring but the sight alone
Is real. Only the Lower falls can be
seen from this point, as Upper Falls Is
hidden by a- turn In the canyon. From
this promonotory we get a tremendous
sweep of vision both up and down the
canyon and several fine photographic
views. This huge pinnacle of rock over
hangs the canyon and is approached by
a narrow Tldge with fear and trembling
by most every one. Standing here, the
sensation is similar to that experienced
when tiding down a swift elevator, one
of dizziness, although there Is no dan
ger. If you have a steady head. What
adds to the weird grandeur of the scene
are. the precipitous cliff points, the grot
toes, spires and pinnacles which look
like frost, ice and snow, standing amid
walls scraped and chiseled out, like old
castellated, ruins. Perched on these
sharp tips are numerous eagles' nests,
around which some parent bird Is seen
feeding the young, or, like lightning's
flash, swooping to the river and catching
up some unlucky fish.
No one can view this picture and not
be stirred by it. It is a whole sermon,
an Inspiration In Its effect on mind and
soul It lifts one to relations with the
Infinite. I can echo the words of Rev.
Dr. Wayland Hoyt, "that to have seen
the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone Is
an epoch in my life." He adds: "The
Crater of Geswolns Is the only place in
which 1 remember to nave seen such a
variety and wealth of natural color.
Says Dr. Talmage: "It Is here that tt
seems- to me (and I speak It with rev
erence) Jehovah seems to have sur
passed himself. It seems a great gulf
let down into the eternities." A recent
visitor describes It "as being hung with
rainbows like glorious banners." An
other likens It "to a great cathedral
with painted windows and full of treas
ures of Illuminated manuscript." Rev.
Dr. J. M. Buckley, after his vlstt to the
Tosemlte, to Alaska,and the park, says:
"Beauty, grandeur, sublimity, and
dreadfulness; Inspiring delight, wonder,
awe, or terror, according to the be
holder's mood and point of view, meet
In the Grand Canyon of the Yellow
stone." The great traveler, Rev. Dr. H.
M. Field, .says: "The Canyon of the
Yellowstone Is the greatest thing on
earth. How puny and Insignificant are
the gardens of Versailles, besides the
wonders of the Yellowstone park.' I
had seen the glory of the Lord upon
the mountains. I had been in the very
presence of God when I stood on the
top of Mount Sinai. Next to the over
powering sense of the . greatness of the
Creator is the impression of the little
ness of man. Such is the lesson of In
spiration point."
Keen regret is felt as we leave behind
this, the climax of wonders, on our re
turn trip to Norris Geyser basin, 11am-
umoth Hot Springs and Livingston, on
tne main line or Northern pacino rail
road and as we resume our journey to
the far-off land of Alaska, the feeling
Is strengthened that. God and nature
have been good to us.
-Every -American citizen should visit
this museum of unparalleled marvels
(which our own government has made
free to all for all time) before visiting
foreign lands; and no traveler from an
other country should leave America un
til this wonder of nature has been added
to his store of personal experiences. It
is admitted by those who come from
across the sea to visit the park have a
much keener sense of appreciation of
its wonderful character, than we Ameri
cans have. Taken as a whole, a trip to
Yellowstone park Is one of the most
surprising, interesting, Instructive, en
tertaining and satisfying itineraries we
have thus far enjoyed on the -continent,
and yields- the largest in subsequent
food for reflection.
John E. Richmond.
VERBAL HISTORY.
Villa formerly meant a farm and not a
house.
Girl formerly slgnfled any joug person
of elthyer sex. ,
Gallon was originally a pitcher or jar
no matter of what size.
Voyage was formerly any Journey,
whether by sea or land it did not -matter. '
Polite at first meant polished and was
applied to any smooth, shining surface. -
.Good-toy Is an abbreviation of an old
English form of parting: "God be with
you until we meet." .
A vagabond was originally only a trav
eler or a person who went from place to
place with or without a definite object.
Shrewd once signified evil or wicked.
Thomas Fuller uses the expression, "a
shrewd fellow," meaning wicked man.
-Moonstruck l borrowed from astrology.
It formerly described one who was driven
mad by sleeving in the rays of the moon.
Peck at first meant a basket or recep
tacle for grain or other substances. The
expression at first had no reference to size,
Starve was 'once to die any manner of
death. WycllfTe's. . sermons tell how
"Christ starved on the cross for the re
demption of men."
The word miscreant formerly signified
only an unbeliever, an infidel. Joan of
Arc, In the literature of her time, was
called a miscreant.
Acre once meant any field. It Is still
used with this eifinlllcance by the Gor
man a, who speak of God's acre, alluding to
the cemetery.
Meat meant once any kind of food. In
one old EngllBh edition of the Lord's
prayer the well-known petition is ren
dered : "Give us this day our dally meat."
Town originally signified a farm or
farmhouse. It is used in Wycliffe in this
sense: "And they went their ways, one to
his town,- another to his merchandise."
Tariff was the name of the Moorish chief-
taln, Abou el Tarlfa, who had a fortress
near the Straits of Gibraltar und levied
toll on ships and merchandise pusslng
throuith. . '
1 Mbcl once meant any little book but fts
many small tracts 111 the curly days of
printing were pvr.onnl und offensive in
character the word acquired its present
slKiilfleiinee.
Yard was once nny stick, rod Or polo.
The expression Is till used with thU nvnn
Irg when-applied to vsiious purls of a
ehlu's ctiitlpment, as yardurins, sallyurds
and tho llko. "
Imp once meant a child. -Shakespeare,
speaking of the -I'hllilrsn of the tower,
eslli them Imps. Jeremy Taylor, .In one
or his sermon, speaks of the "beautiful
Imps thut Sang hosunus to the Saviour In
the temple.. '
Oils Sklhner' will' play tha loading part
In the new. London melodrama, "One of
the Best.",,
,
- ". ""CT-,a,
!ST- 3 rft is
DEUGBTFDL CITY OF KICE
Its Name Exactly Fits' Its Outward
Circnmstnnces. .
WHERE EUROPE PASSES WINTER
Althoaga ta the Sasse Latitat! i
Canada, Mies la MMwiater Is as
Wars as the City ef Wash
tnttoa la April.
Special Coneapondenoa to The Tribuna
Nice. March 12. Perhaps the Inherent
American tendency to call Nice nice
comes from the faat that that word
seems best to describe the town: Its
nice ness is what : first Impresses the
visitor. The streets are even, straight,
and clean, the houses all rise In even
rows, each with Its garden of orange
trees around It, and the shops (they are
much too small to deserve our Ameri
can name stores) are all very fine and
nice. It la only natural that a city In
which a good proportion of the world's
aristocracy spends one-third of the year
should be filled with shops for the sale
of all the world's luxuries, but still the
sight of so many of these establish
ments, finer even than those of Paris,
is uaeiy to surprise one.
The epicure or delloattesem shops and
the queer little shops for the sale
of all kinds of prepared meat, are es
pecially lnUiosUng to an American, be
cause they are so different from any
thins; ha has la hie own country. The
meats and pastry are prepared In all
sorts of tempting; forms and shapes, and
they make one's mouth water to look at
menu
PRESERVED FRUIT.
But tempting as they are they can
hardly compare with the windows In
which the glased or candled fruit are
exhibited. Nice seema to be the centre
for the manufacture of this kind of
sweets, and It Is really wonderful to ate
how all kinds of fruHcanbe preserved,
and presumably made into candy.
There seems to be nothing in the fruit
or vegetable line too large for this
process, and In some of these windows
they have everything- from watermelons
ana nuge cantelounes down to our
rants. Oranges, bananas, pomegranates,
pears, peacnea and ancles, are
only at few of tho many fruits treated
in this manner. They are usually ar
ranged in pretty baskets and panniers
or van-colored straw, and the prices
piacea on inem indicate as wen as any
thing can, that the people who come to
Nice for the winter usually have plenty
of money to spend. These price cards
also Indicate the oosmopolltsuiness of
the visitors, for In addition to the price
at Nice, the price Is given for delivery
in aii tne enter cities of Eurorw.
Ths two chief streets In Nice are the
Avenue da la Gare. and the Qual Mas
sena, which Intersect each other at the
Place Masaena, on which fronts the su
perb municipal Casino, and on these
streets are most of the principal shops,
a great many of which bear announce
ments on their windows that, by special
appointments, they-have the honor to
serve some royal highness or excellency.
A rather amusing example of this rage
lor tne special appointments is found
on one of the side streets, where the
window of an otherwise unassuming
milk depot bears a sign saying that they
are -oy special appointment" milkmen
to Her Imperial Majesty, the Queen of
ureat untam and Ireland and the Em
press of India When Queen Victoria
was here two years ago this dairyman
probably supplied her household with
milk,, and now he -Intends to make the
moat of the fact.
A MAGNIFICENT WALK.
But the shops are by no means the
most Interesting things in Nice. It is
difficult to say Just what Is the most
Interesting thing, but perhaps the
Promenade des Anglais would deserve
tnat honor. This promenade Is a man
niflcent walk along the curving shore
of the bay of Nice, two miles long, and
paved for a good part of the way with
a fine granolithic pavement. On one
side, is the Mediterranean, and on the
other the principal drive of the city.
nearly always nuea with fine turnouts.
and bordered with magnificent hotels
ana vinos. The hotels along the Rl
viera are a very different thing from
those on American seaside resorts, for
they are built of stone and brick In
stead of wood, and nearly always lay
claim to some architectural auallty,
The people In- the carriages and on the
promenade are usually a very swell
looking crowd, and towards three
o clock, the fashionable hour, it pre
sents a very gay sight.- The view of
the mountains which surround Nice is
very fine, either facing up or down the
promenade, and take it all In all, it well
bears out its reputation of being one of
the most beautiful walks In Europe.
The public gardens, which connect
the Place Massena and the Casino with
the beginning of- the promenade, are
planted with palm and other tropical
trees, and In the afternoon, when the
band plays there, ana the people wan
der around, clad In light clothing and
some of them wearing straw hats, one
can hardly persuade himself that It Is
the middle of winter, and that, more
over, he is in the same latitude as
Canada.
. DELIGHTFUL CLIMATE.
The nearness of the snow-covered
Alps seems to make It all the more
wonderful, but' In that very nearness
of the mountains lies the explanation
of the exceptionally mild climate of the
Riviera. They act as a barrier against
the north winds, and their rocky slope
seems to gather the heat of the sun
and Btore It up to nourish the tropical
vegetation. As ah example of the pro
tection they afford. It is said that quite
often, when ten miles out on the Medi
terranean a storm Is raging, the Bay of
Nice Is as calm and still as a lake. Very
many travellers say that this liay of
Nice Is the most Deautirui in me worm
gaining the preference even to the far
fmnnl Rnv of'Nanles.- The view ob
tained of it as one drives around the
headland which separates It from the
Road of Vlllafranche is certainly one
that once seen, is never iorgoiien. in
the foreground Is the old town, with Its
harbor and shipping, and then, separ
ating it from the magnilicent sweep of
the bay on which the new town Is built,
Is the rocky eminence crowned with the
fort. Back of the town the orange clad
hills rise till they become mountains,
oni lmi.tf nt these still larger moun
tains, the Alps themselves, covered
with snow.
Tt ran nnfelv be said that the main In
t . . -i l .. . . 1 I , ..-n i-,a nt Its
ninety thousand Inhabitants depend. In
nnA .,nv '.. .nMhnf rm thA ntra.ni?ers
UIIC 1. J ,vw,... - -
whn flnnlc here durlnir the Winter. Ho
tels and pensions rise on every hand
and while they are all good, still not
hll ure exceed nsrlv expensive, ana
Is this fact which makes Nice the llvety
tilaee It Is. for sometimes the European
nobleman Is not overblessed with this
. world's' goods, and must needs count
'('.the costs. Perhaps half the visitors
are Kmrllsh and Americans, and be
tween them they support three of four
churcheB,
THE CASINO.
The municipal officers of .the town
recognizing the fact that the prosperity
of the city depends on Its attractive
ness, have erected a very line casino
and theater, to which Is attached
winter irardcn.Tho best of Parisian ar
tists ore secured for the theater, and
the band of tho casino Is one of tho
best In Europe,
In addition to this municipal casino
tlu'vn Is another one. owned by a uii
vtiti company; which Is built on a pier
running nut Into the nea Just in mm
of the public gardens. If anything, th
In thp more popular of the two. und the
theatrical entertainments, Riven Iwioe
n day, are very well attended, whor
the best opera In France outside
Paris Is given.
Of
These three places of -entertainment
with the Promenade des Anglais and
the beautiful mountain walks, are the
tnala permanent features of Nice. ana
when to them are added the races, the
rr gattas. ami the carnival in the spring.
u is lime wonoer mat it easily main. .
tains its position as the premier pleas
ure place of the world.
Wlnford J Nort hup.
No matter how violent or excruelaMna
the pain, tha Rheumatic, Bedridden, In
firm, Crippled, Nervous. Neuralgic, e
prostrated with diseases may suffer.
RADWAY'S READY RELIEF
Will Afford Instant Eaae.
For headachs (whether sick ex Mranual.
toothache, neuralgia, rheumatism, luia
bago, pains and weakness la the back,
spine or kidneys, pains around the IWer,
pleurisy, swelling of the Joints and paJna
of all kinds, the application cf Railway's
Ready Relief will afford Immediate ease,
and Its continued use for a few days effect
& permanent cure.
Instantly stops the most exoruclstlssl
pains, allays Inflammation and euraa eoS
eetions, wnetner or tne Mings, gtomaoaw
Bowels or other glands or muoeus mesiS
branaa
Kadway's Ready Relief
CUBES AND PREVENTS
Colds, Caught, Sore Throat, Influan
xa, Bronchitis, Pneumonia, Rhsjv .
matlsm, Neuralgia, Headscha,
. Toothache, Asthma, DiN
ficult Breathing.
CURES THE WORST PAINS la front
ens to twenty minutes. Not one hea
after resting this advertisement need any
do SUFFER WITH PAIN.
INTEE
RnAL.LT A half to a taasnoonful
la half a tumbler of water wUl In a few
m Urates ear Cramps, Bpeams, Sour,
Stomach. Nausea, Vomiting, Heartburn,
Si ok Headache. Dlarrkeea, Cello, Flatu
leey and sir Internal pains;
RADWAY'S READY REUBF.
rrloe. Boa. Bottle. Bald bv all
Druggists.
m Jests
of all Cough Medicines
is Dr. Acker's English Rem
at f 4 a
edy. it will stop a cougn in :
one 'night, check a cold !n
one day. prevent croup re ;
Iieve asthma, and cure con-.
sumption, if taken in time,
It is made on honor, from the
purest ingredients and con
tains neither opium nor mor
phine. If the little ones have,
croup or whooping coughs
use it promptly.
ThmSUo-25c50cand$l per bottle.
At Druggbtt. i
. ACKER MEDICINE CO, j
M aad xa Chambers attest, Hew Yet. '
er thi Hiemef Mteieai Awrraerain
i'wmwiii ae
NAVE You f STR DBU
HEADACHEWX5B
IRBALXn will euro. ynu. A
wonderful boon to futTereri
f mm ftelri. am ThM..
fir HAY rfeTER. Amt
immeMattrtUtf. Aneafclen
mm rtA mn.nbnt , ,
la voeket,najlT to nun on fint Indication of sold.
Cratlnea tree Effects Permaaeat On re.
eatlafaoUuonaranteadormonejrnfunded. Prlee,
eta. Trial free at Uniffiiita. Rotlitered nail.
rata, LB. CUSEI1H; air., tkn Hi fin, Kua, U.S. a,
C3TTSI-raT.A.I-l
I PfllTlin I 7Ba auroM and latest remedy for
in&n I nUU llrtlndlneeMfjKcieme,lt!li.elt
Bheumjild SoreeJRurna, Onu. Woarierful rem
tar t or PILES. Price, Sf era. nt Drue-n A IS
IMS or bymaU prepaid. Addreuaaabore. DALIU
For sale by MATTHEWS BROS, and
JOHN H. PHELPS. Scranton, Pa.
DR. NCBRA'S i
VIOLAi CREAM
SemofM FreoklM, Pimple,
Ever Motae, Blackheads
unbars end Tan, And n
stores the skin to Its origi
nal freshness, producing a
aImt and healthy com-
.L.al.n flnnaWnr In all Inna
f reparations and .perfectly harmless. At "all
iruggUu, or mailed lor SOcta ticud lor Circular,
VIOLA 8K!M 80AP ' Umplf lnnnbh at a
Ala BurtMoi Sow a)i ft th. UUM, .ml wUtarta
rlnl for the iwrawy. AbxHuwlr Jkm aaa aaaway bw
ittlr rwi
Aft mWl Mm 9 anH-
Q. C. BITTNER & CO., Toledo, O.
For sale by MATTHEWB BROS, and
JOHN H. PHELPS. Scranton, Pa.
Vitality Restored.
Villlnc SMU..1 Htrmntb In old or vannt man rtm
bequlck lyand permanently rui by itMtolaf4ll
lT.TiKorouaiU.te. ButTercra from....
VARICOCELE, NIGHT LOSSES,
AND Alt, WA8TINO mSEASKSahmild writ
to uie for advice. I have berni a cloao ttulnt fo
man, yean at the aubject of weak nous In men, the
fact la. I waaasuflerer myself. ..Toobvbrultoteell
III old of older men or rnnu table puyalrlana I iDYee
liKMct' tbe inbjeet doeply and dticnvared a alraple
but moet remarkably uarnmful remedy that com
plotely cared me and fully tnl.rd me from a
shrunken.stunted condition to natural atrenirth and
lite. I want every Tounc nrold man to know about
It. I take a personal Imnrc.n In aunh crwb and no
one need hesitate to writs mo at all communication,
are held strictly ronfldeiiUal. I .end tho recipe ot
thin remedy absolutely froo ot cost. l)u not put II
ofl;it write me fully at once, you will always bless
the day you did so. Addreas,.'
: THOMAS SLATER, Box aoa8,
Shipper of Famous Kalaumioo Cclerj.
KALAMAZOO, MICH.
MI'S)
I Celebrated Female
. l'nwrlrra never fnlL
UI.nH l..l!.i"JI.,,.,.!,,u. A
.rt.numr.wiw.nnmnae
rftOMlM'.nfiver.ilra. rwimiui eemi.
HU a a, VIA) oeva v, aew, .
BLANK BOOKS
Of all kinds, manufactured at shot
otice, at Tho Tribune Office.
mm
'""""