THE SCR ANTON TRIBUNE---SATURDAY MORNING, JANUARY 12, 189S.
Christmas Day in
Merrie England
How Our Trans-Atlantic Cousins
Commemorate That Holiday.
A TYPICAL BAROXIAL HOME
Miss Kaiser Describes a Visit to the pun
try Residence of Lord Tredegar, the
Hero of Bulaklova, and Depicts
on English Christmas.
Special Correspondence of The Tribune.
Newport. Dec. 25. Although too busy
to eat, almost. I will nevertheless try
to 'tell you something about an English
Christmas and the holidays here. My
enjoyment of them began even before
the term ended, for I had ithe best piece
of 4uck I believe I ever had. A dear
friend of mine, a little bit of a 14-year-old
girl wilth whom I am very much In
love, had the good fortune to win the
prize for the best 'oello playing In the
whole Royal Academy. 'She Is the cut
est little thing and the brainiest little
body I ever met. There were great big
men and women entered at the exami
nation, which was very stiff, but my
little artist came In ahead, and never
even thought she "had done something
wonderful; Indeed, her sister, whom I
aww afterward, said to 'me that she
seemed more pleased and Interested In
some American stamps which I had
sent her ithat afternoon than she was
In her ten-guinea prize, which Is a bit
over 60 In our money.
The last academy event before the
vacation was an orchestral concert,
given by that institution In St. James'
hull, and It was so very good as to
make us all as proud and puffed up as
peacocks. One of the crack piano
students did Rubinstein's concerto in
A minor for piano and orchestra, and
won handsome criticism from the musi
cal press thereby. This young lady Is
quite young .has won numerous prizes
for her pianoforte work, and has no less
than three big grand pianos Bech
stlen. Broadwood and Stelnway -which
she has had awarded to her as prizes In
oompeti tlve examinations where she has
come off conqueror.Another concerto
violin and orchestra a couple of songs
and then came the piece de resistance
the first rendition in London of A.
Owddyd Thomas' last work. "The Swan
and the Skylark." This Is a beautiful
little work, and was done for the llrst
time only ilast summer at the Birming
ham festival, and we had the honor of
doing lit second. The fame of it had al
ready gone abroad, and there was a
mad rush for seats at the hall, and a
flue disregard of manner In getting into
them as well, but what rejoiced the soul
of every student was 'the nice things
which the musical critics said about the
rendition, In the papers next day. They
were perfectly true, too.
London in Holiday Atttrc.
It was so hard to get away from Lon
don! The shops grew brighter every
day with preMy things and with decora
tions of holly and mistletoe. Numbers
of Santa Clauses, each one the "only
and original" Santa, and all of them
decidedly made-up, paraded the streets.
each advertising the particular shop
or bazaar which sent him forth to lure
us there. The 'markets and meat shops
were a Joy to the eye, with their rows
and rows or pretty little rations, bril
liant feathered pheasants and decorat
ed skinned pigs and beeves hung up
outside. Everything sparkled and
hone and glowed.
At night, or rather morning, at 3 or 4
o'clock we were awakened every day
by a band which -plays around in this
way every night for a coupl of weeks
before Christmas. They play nice old
familiar things and do It well too, and
it is a lovely thing, I think, to be awak
ened by the sweet, strains of some far
off musiic and then slowly drop to sleep
gain as they play on around the neigh
borhood where they are. These bands
are called "waits." I don't know why.
They generally play somewhere near a
public house.
Sir Joseph Barnby, the veteran con
ductor. Is at Bournmouth, slowly Im
proving after the sudden prostration
under which he fell after the perform
ance of Berlioz' "Faust," which I had
the pleasure of seeing him conduct.
Everyone Is very glad that he is get
ting better, his Illness having caused
a great deal of concern In musical
circles over here.
An English Ancestral Home.
I have seen a genuine old English an
cestral home, for which glimpse I am
most devoutly thankful. I have imag
ined an old baronial castle, but never
so grand a one as I have seen this day,
or yesterday, rather. Yesterday
evening Miss Driscoll and Miss
Km I lie Driscoll and my happy self took
supper at Tredegar, the home of Lord
Tredegar, and one of the finest of the
grand old homes of England. He it
the great man of southwestern Eng
land, and, yesterday being Christmas
Eve, there were, from early evening
until midnight, over 100 people there, in
little parties, singing Carols outside the
windows, and making really lovely
music. Some of them , carried little
lanterns and were dressed up In hoods
and cloaks, and all were singing for
charity, his lordship giving freely to
all. He Is a lonely but most lovely old
man bout 62 white headed, and with
a nose that struck me with admiration,
for 1 do admire big Roman noses. He
was perfectly lovely 'to us, as were also
his Bister and her husband, the Vis
count and Viscountess of Hereford,
who, with their two daughters, were
the other three.
His lordship knowing that I had never
seen an old mansion like his own was
kind enough to show me over the most
Interesting and historical rooms. In
the entrance hall we came across two
figures which I at first glance .took to
be from Madame Tussand's, (the fam
ous wax work woman), but which on
closer Inspection I found to be only two
footmen with powdered hair and eye
brows and wonderfully laced and braid
ed and buttoned yellow and white
liveries with knee breeches and white
stockings and all. They made me
think of the picture of George Wash
ington In his best clothes, they were so
gorgeous. In this hall under an old
portrait of a soldier, hung the sword
which my lord carried through thn
famous charge of the Six Hundred at
Baiaklava. I was much Interested in
it, and grasped the ihllt of It so that I
could Bay that I had touched It. It was
all very old and grand, this antique and
Imposing home, with big aintlered
deer Iwads mounted on the walls.
and black, shiny, and, I must say slip
pery floors, one of which, a drawing
room, la a whole piece of oak, taken
300 or 400 yean ago from a big tree
whloh was in old and big that It had at
last fallen down In the park. , There
were beautiful rugs and furs around,
though, which made It more comfort
able, and then there were such great
big Immense fireplaces big enough for
me to live In, almost with crackling
log i.n, whlch)e their pungent odor
out into tne rooms.ioweri there were,
everywhere; ife Jnflsj; beautiful-1 had
ever seen, lighting up the dark,
richly glowing rooms with their love
ly blossoms, in honor of the eve
of Christmas. The three drawing
rooms, in which we spent most of our
time, were all most interesting from a
historical point of view, and I was kind
ly taken about and shown old carvings
and priceless pictures and rare old
frescoed ceilings, which , his lordship
carefully explained when and by whom
they were put in the house. In one of
the rooms, most beautifully finished In
carved panels,' done 400 years ago by a
Gibbon or Gibbons, the gilding which
decorates them still remains dull and
rich, never having been retouched.
In the Portrait Gallery.
I was shown the room where all the
old family portraits are hung, of gener
ations after generation, and the dear,
simple old man remarked that his own
was In an adjoining room, reaily to be
hung with those of his departed an
cestors when the time should come for
it to take Us place. The grand old
place was an opening into fairyland
for me. I never had dreamed of such
beautiful things, but here they were,
old tapestries, old pictures,, great rooms,
wonderful carvings und superb statu
ary. Lord Tredegar was very particu
lar to show us, also, the great stair
cane, which is wide enough for eight
people abreast and very grand, being
bulustraded with most wonderful carv
ings in black oak, hundreds of years
old, and which have been often photo
graphed for art collectors, as they are
considered by connoisseurs to be among
the finest specimens of old carvings
left In England.
At the top of this staircase hangs an
immense tapestry, which is considered
very line. 1 at first thought It was a
painting, as it looked so real, but It is
all the needlework of some departed
lady Tredegar and her maids, who
whlled the hours away In this manner
when their lord was fighting In the Wars
of the Roses. One of the drawing room
floors is a single piece of oak, the whole
of it having come from a gigantic oak
tree which had fallen down from old
age in the park a couple of hundred
years ago. It is black with age and
polish now, but Just as solid as ever.
The butler, who by the way. Is a much
giander man than his master, so far
as swagger Is concerned, took us In
charge after supper and showed us
over some of his domains, his master
not knowing anything about them. We
went through the old court yard, under
which were situated the mediaeval
dungeons, In which languished long
ago the unfortunate enemies of the
house of Tredegar. We went through
the fat, comfortable old housekeeper's
rooms, where hung the portraits of the
twelve Caesars of Rome, done by some
old Italian master hand. We descended
Into the big servant's hall, which was
of old the banquotting hall of the cas
tle, and which certainly was mediaeval
enough, for there were no windows In
It, and it was exceedingly high. I could
imagine the rafters ringing with the
coarse and hearty mirth of the war
riors of long ngo, as they were seated
with their ladies and sweethearts and
the retainer of the house, about the
rough old banquet board which ex
tended the length of the room. The
dear consequential old butler showed
me where they say the big salt cellar
used to Btand, all above which were, of
course, gentle folks, while all below
were not. Even here were suits of old
armor, standing up bravely in the cor
ners, and so ridiculously heavy and
Cumbersome that I should -ar to see
a man of today in one, lest he should
rapidly become non est. Old battle
axes and shields hung about, and even
seme old paintings, In which the house
seems to be rich, Indeed, making every
step of the way most Interesting.
In a Baronial Kitchen.
We went into the kitchen where the
fires are Immense and where I saw a
great spit, on which an ox can be and
has been roasted whole, the spit being
a patented device of the chief cook's
and turns constantly before the fire,
roasting the animal evenly without
anybody being by to "turn the spit" as
of old. The ranges, coppers and irons
in this room would equip any big hotel.
From there we went on through the
kitchen maid's room, after viewing the
"scullery," and were incidentally
treated to the sight of a very pretty,
picturesque, young powdered footman
making love to Susan. He temporarily
quit, however, in honor of our passing
through, as we proceeded to the
larders, where we saw the meats, game,
etc., hanging up ready for use. In the
meat larder were haunches of beef, legs
of mutton, livers, hearts, etc., besides
four or five whole sheep and other
meats. It looked for nil the world Just
like a big and well-stocked meat
murket. and imnglne my feelings when
my lord butler calmly informed me
that that was a three day's supply
only. The game, pheasants, venison
rabbit and so forth filled another room
farther on. Then we descended to the
lower regions, and under his care we
went through the beer cellars, the ale
cellars, but did not have time to go
beyond to the big wine cellars. In the
beer cellar there are two very fine
underground springs whleh furnish the
water supply of the house, and several
old lion's heads In stone, with their
noses crumbled away, guarding them
In the ale cellars there Is a great Wg
fat tank which Is named the Prince of
Wales. Everybody visiting these cellars
must drink from this tank or he will
have 111 luck, so at least said the butler.
It holds 1,100 gallons and Is certainly
very Imposing. There are other tanks
called the Nelson, the Marlborough, the
Cromwell and so forth. All the ale and
beer Is brewed there. On one door I
found this little legend In crooked,
funny letters:
. .
Roger Servls, Butler, 1674.
He had cut It there himself, years ago,
when he had charge of these cellars.
Well we had to wrench ourselves
away at last, as It was near midnight
and Miss Driscoll, who is organist and
choir preceptor In St. Mary's church in
Newport here, had to play at the mid
night mass, which Is always held here
on Christmas eve. So we tore our un
willing selves away and were driven
-into town again, where I attended mid
night mass, for the first time In my life.
I was very sleepy, and propped myself
up against the organ and dozed
through the service with dreams of his
lordship, the Wise old butler the fat
housekeeper, and the misty old pic
tures floating through my head. I was
wide awake enough, 'however, to notice
with Interest 'lat the mass, which
was being sung, was one composed by
D. Protheroe, of Scran ton, Pa. The
service being over, I managed to be the
first one to wlwh people a merry Christ
mas, sleepiness to the contrary not
withstanding. Home we Went, and
Santa Claus had already been there,
leaving a lovely little brooch for me,
which he presented to tne through the
kind and dear Miss Driscoll. ,
Charming Houso Party, ''
Next day, which was Christmas I
had the pleasure of forming one of a
Charming; houseparty, at the home of a
most lovely woman who I knew In
Newport 'before, and whose daughters
I know 1rv London. We were all there.
and I had a most wildly enjoyable
From Other Lands
r r
Chrlstnms day and night. It Is the
Custom of this family to give, every
year, an entertainment to the inmates
of the "Union" or workhouse of the
county, and as the members of the fam
ily and theif party were all possessed
of some talent, -we managed to give
them a pretty good time. We com
menced with a small concert, one play
ing a piano solo; another, violin; an
other, .the young son of the family.
only this week returned from a long
trip of Seeing the mates," anu wno
brought back with him the college clas
sic, "Listen to My Tale of Woe!" saing
that Interesting song. 1 sang two
songs, which pleased them mightily,
after which one Irrepressible old wo
man demanded "Ann Corr!" Just like
Pip's brother of Dickens' creation. The
colonel -made them a speech during
which they interrupted with replies,
for they Just love him and all his fami
ly, who are so good to them. They are
worthy old men and women, all dresaed
alike -in white caps, and red llannel
shoulder shawls, and grey dresses, and
looked very odd and pitiable, 1 tnougni.
Rome of them are perfectly infirm, too.
They filled a very large mustering hall.
there were o many or mem, anu uiey
were the oddest audience I think I ever
iw.
After ithe concert we gave them an
amateur performance of Mrs. Jarley's
wax works, -which was screaming iun
for thnm and for us. too. HuW I did
enjoy that "work'ouse" experience! I
shall never forget It. The matron una
nurses told us afterward that the in
mates hadn't laughed so far years and
vears. Some of the make-upB were
simply wonderful, and as some of the
men were very clever at amateur act
ing, we did beautifully.
An English Ninas Dinner.
Home we went after that, and
dressed for dinner, which was as En
glish as it could be, for my special
benefit. The lust course was, ot course,
the Christmas plum pudding, whlcn
was brought In on a big salver with
brandy around It, this brandy lit and
burning away, all blue and silver. It
was cut and sent around, ana I had tne
happiness of getting the little silver
thrlppeny bit In it, whloh is a sign of
good luck. During dessert, each lady
and her partner cracked bonbons,
which go off with a report, and which
contain bells, whistles, candy, toys, and
mottoes for the flirtatiously Inclined. I
pasjed my dinner hour In exchanging
pleasantries with the recent traveler
In America. He gave me his views ot
America, and I repaid In kind with
views of England.
After dessert the Christmas tree,
which was upon the dinner table, was
unloaded of Its -gifts by a daughter ot
the house, and each one gut something
funny and pretty. Just at the height
of the fun a little carol broke upon our
ear-3, sung by a number of school child
ren out In the big hall. It was beauti
ful; then at the suggestion of their
leader und our hostess I ran Into the
drawing room and sang them a little
Christmas carol In return. The sweet
little things thanked me and wished me
a merry Christmas In England, and
then trooped out, each taking a bag
of goodies given to them -by the host
ess. The Christmas tree was a beauty
all lit up with pretty little fairy lamps
and laden with cute little things and
our presents, and, altogether, we had
the -loveliest Christmas I ever experi
enced. We played and sang, and so
forth, until the next day, when we all
trooped upstairs to bed, I with my
heart full of blessings for the dear host
and hostess of the party, who had done
so much to help me have a "merrie
English Christmas."
The next day after Christmas Is
called "Boxing Day," because of the
universal custom of sending the trades
people and one's friends Christmas
boxes. The postman, the lamplighter,
butcher, baker, milkman, candlestick-
maker, grocer, and beggarman, all call
for their Christmas boxes on this day.
It is a holiday all over the land, and
the football teams and their followers
send up a mighty roar from all the
fields In England, where they play the
Hoxtng Day game, Just as we have
Thanksgiving Day match.
Sadie E. Kaiser.
AN OVERCHARGED OZOXE.
i
The Tourist Objected to Solid Matter In
ills Air.
A man from the tamarack swamps
went to Kansas thinking to improve
his condition, but after three years of
it lie returned to his native heath.
"How did you like it out there?'
asked an acquaintance.
"Not very much."
"It's a good country, ain't It?"
"I've seen better."
"The air is better there than it is
here, ain't It?"
"Sometimes It !s, but not always."
"I don't see why It ain't as good one
time as another."
"Well, it ain't."
"Why?"
"Cyclones."
"I thought they purified It."
"That's what I thought till I tried It,
but when I had to breathe furniture
and weatherboardln' and bedolo's and
shingles and live stock and household
goods and farms and fence rails and
that sort of thing about three times a
week I sort of changed my mind and
come away. Kansas may have some
advantages, but air ain't one of them
us a steady thing."
WE NEED NEW NOSES.
Its Functions Are Destroyed by Tobacco
Smoking.
An Austrian scientist has been at
tacking the European nose. He says
it Is a miserable, degraded organ and a
disgrace to civilization. He admires
the large, full nostrils of the negro, and
says that Is the sort of a nose to have,
That Is the nose that can smell; our ol
factory sense Is gone. The London
nose could never snuff the London at
mosphere; nor, he might have added,
the much more complicated odors of
cologne.
. He attributes this degeneration to
cigarette smoking, and life In crowds,
and has such a poor opinion of the or
gan whloh now obtains that he does
not think It worth the while to Inter
fere, otherwise science might tnke us
by the nose, he considers, with great
advantage.-
Lighting in London.
When It was first proposed to light the
treets of London with an great obloe-
A tlon was made by tho public und newspa
pers on the ground thut the people would
be poisoned, mat ine trees anu vegeta
tlon would be killed, und that domestic
anlmuls could not possibly survive the
deadly fumes.
KlghteoiiN Fato.
The mercury was fulling fast,
As down the busy street there passed
A man who asked of all he knew?"
"Well. Is this cold enough for you?"
He rubbed hi humid and onward tripped,
But on the ley pavement slipped;
He foil headlong and broke his pate,
Observe the righteous hand of fate. .
Kansas City Journal
Sailing Toward
the Golden Horn
Incidents of a Pleasant Voyage on the
Blue Mediterranean.
OF)? THE COAST OP CORSICA
The Journey by Boat from Marseilles to
Constantinople Described in lluppy
Manner Kcadublo Notes of the Itin
erary's Interesting features.
Special Correspondence ot The Tribune.
Constantinople, Dec. 22. The en
trances to Constantinople from Europe
are numerous, -but for one who la not
entirely averse to sea travel no -better
entrance can be made than through
the Mediterranean, up the Aegean,
through the Dardanelles and across the
sea of Marmora. One can approach In
this way most comfortably and cheap
ly by steamer from Marseilles. This
route is much used by those who are
seeking pleasure and are not rushed by
business or a wild desire for fast travel,
such as "America's Greatest Road" of
fers In the Empire state express. -
The impressions of -Marseilles are
those of a Spanish rather than French
city. The streets are Irregular and
dirty, the gutters seem to be the sew
ers, and the sun, in summer, beats
down, and, reflected by the Mediter
ranean, the light and heat are both In
creased. The buildings are low and
Insignificant and yet Marseilles lis the
chief shipping port of France. The
Idea of a Spanish town is heightened
by the postcrsannounclng a "Bull Bait
ing for the coming Sunday, and the
tawny men with sombreros sitting
around the cafe, smoking and playing
the guitar.
The horses are noticeable with their
Immense collars towering above theif
shoulders like an enormous horn. The
harness Is decorated with bits of brass,
the names are inlaid with bone and
each horse has a string of vaii-colored
beads around his neck. This is char
acteristic of the east, as the Turks and
Arabs decorate their horses with
strings of blue beads around the neck.
Its Light Is Not Hidden.
There Is a cathedral a short distance
from the center of the city. It stands
alone high above the city and can be
seen far out at sea. It Is built on a
solitary rock which rises about 150 feet
out of a plain, with rough, precauti
ous sides. One thinks of the appro
priateness of the situation for a cathe
drala candle on an Immense candle
stick to give light to all around. The
approach to Notre Dame de la Galde,
as the cathedral Is called, Is by an In
clined plane and elevator or by a long
flight of steps.
Situated as Marseilles Is, exposed to
the winds from the south and west,
there is need of a harbor. There are.
In reality, three harbors or basins.
These are made by breakwaters. The
old basin Is guarded by the forts of St
Jean and St. Nicholas. There are now
two large ones, the innermost called
Bassln du Lazaret, the outer and large
called Bassin de la Juliette.
The Mediterranean steamers cannot,
or course, lie compared with the Atlan
tic greyhounds, but the steamers of the
Messageries line are well managed and
clean. It is the route of one of these
steamers which Is iliere described.
The view of Marseilles from the sea
Is very Imposing. The rock formation
Is of purest white and the shore Is
rough with Jagged cliffs which grow
Into mountains and surround the whole
city. The mountains are clad In green,
but capped with bare, bald rock wilrlch
has the appearance of snow. Then
from the heart of the town rises the
m.k on which Notre Dame de la
Galde is situated and whose golden
cross can be seen far out over the blue
sea.
Just as the day ends the steamer
puts out from the basin and the golden
glory of the setting sun crests, outlines
and tints everything In gorgeous dis
play. The bluest blue of the Atlantic on a
quiet summer afternoon cannot be com
pared with the Intensity of the Medi
terranean blue, nor does the sky ever
elsewhere deck herself with such a
robe of blue and with such fleecy clouds
as above this great Inland Sea.
The Coast of Corsica.
The course Is laid direct to the straits
of Bonifacio and at noon the next day
we are skirting the Bouth coust of Cor
sica, which looms up on our port side
On our starboard side Is Sardinia,
bleak, lofty, almost stubborn in Its ap
pearance and In marked contrast to the
point of Bonifacio. The Corsicnn hills
are cultivated and green; the Sardlnan
hills uncultivated and brown. A mon
astery on the summit of a perpendicu
lar cliff, with Us high walls landward.
Is approached directly from the sea by
a long flight of steps steps cut in the
solid rock. Opposite It on Sardinia is
the solitary light-house, the only ob
ject of Interest on that side unless It be
the natural gate formed by the rush
ing tide. Again attention is called to
the north shore, where we see a little
land-locked and rock-gunrded harbor
of old the; port of sally of the dreaded
pirates of the Mediterranean.
The sun sets In gorgeous apparel be
hind Corsica silhouetting every moun
tain peak.
A few hours more would take us to
Ostla, the port of Rome, or to Naples,
but we turn our course sharp around
Sardinia to the south.
The next afternoon we mnke out the
Btnoklng summit of Stromboll, a vol
cano, rising right out of the sea, one
of the nine islands composing the
LI pari group. As we approach we can
see the sudden bursts of flume and the
dense black-brown smoke rolling out us
If It were the chimney of all the fur
naces of the world. But Stromboll
fades Into the dusk of night and ob
scurity and our attention Is called to
the outlined peaks of Etna.
Steering Through Charybdls.
Straight on the steamer goes to cer
tain destruction, as It seems, on the
shore, which everywhere surrounds.
Suddenly two flash lights appear like
twin stars ablaze In the dark, the helm
is put hard over and we round the sharp
poltrt of Cape Faro only to run Into
the boiling, seething, swirling waters
of Churybdls as we guze along the
rough, unfriendly side of "ship-wrecking
Hcylla."
On the same side with Scylla Is the
old town of Ithegtum, now looking like
a Newport with the countless lamps
along the shore forming a frame of yel
low gold and dotted through with my
riads of lights twinkling like so many
fire-flies. And opposite vying with and
even surpassing Rheglum In extent and
brilliancy lies Messina. The evening Is
warm, the stars bright and a crescent
Than This
moon Just above the horizon, while the
sound of music, the songs of boatmen,
come over the water, which reflects
each light in a long path of glittering
diamonds. Once more land fades from
sight and for thirty-three hours we
hold our course for Kalamata and
anchor In the harbor at the first glow of
dawn.
Kalamata Is in the northern end of
the bay of Messenla and near the old
Pharae. The town Itself Is situated on
what seems to be the dry delta of an
enormous river. The mountains come
down to the bay on two sides and rise
behind the town like two sentinels. We
are not allowed to go on shore on ac
count of quarantine, so all we can do Is
to look at the mountains.
At sunset of the fourth day we are
allowed to proceed, and with a brisk,
cool wind from the east, which rolls
the surface of the sea Into miniature
snow-capped mountains and rocks one
in the easiest cradle ever known, we
round the southern extremity of Greece
and lay our course for Syra.
We run through the Cyclades, passing
Melos, Slpfunos and Paros, coming at
last to Delos, once sacred to Apollo,
and do to Syra.
The I'nlquo City of Syra.
The city of Syra Is unique. Nowhere
cain one see n more quaint or striking
city. The situation la wonderful. The
sea runs In und the land closes around
In two curves, as If fearing its escape,
while directly across the opening is an
island. Two conical hills, with their
buses In contact, bathe their feet in the
blue waters of this ideal harbor, where
the ships move directly to the shore,
and on these two hills the city Is built.
The basement of one house overlooks
the roof of that Just below it. The
style of building is that of the youth
ful artist who ma Ires his first house,
perfectly plaih with regularly arranged
windows and doors, and in color, with
few exceptions, a 'blazing white.
We 'have an hdur on shore after a
day's quarantine, and climb one hill
to a Greek church. The dness or, as
I had almost said, costumes for the
whole effect is that of a picture or tab
leau; the language without a single
harsh or discordant sound; entire free
dom from tho noise of rolling wagons,
foir no team could ascend those streets
of endless stairs, and the street signs
In Greek character, make one awake at
last to the reality of the situation.
On to tho Dardanelles.
The trip from Syra to the Darda
nelles was accomplished without spe
cial Interest as a "smoky southwest"
wind hid everything.
We are shored off -the mouth of the
Hellespont only long enough to get the
necessary permission to proceed after
an Inspection of our quarantine papers,
and at 6 o'clock In the mornLng we
weighed anchor.
The run up the straits and across the
Marmora takes eleven hours.
Moored in the Golden Horn.
For many hours before we moored
in the Golden Horn we had watched
Constantinople grow as if out of the
sea. About noon the first object was
sighted the top of the Serasker tower,
built by Mohamed II. It Is of white
marble and Is the lire tower. It is
situated on the highest part of Stambul
and from it the whole of the city can
be seen. Soon the summit of minarets
appear here and there, like the lances
of a disbanded cavalry troop; then the
sharp conical caps grow Into a round
column; then a balcony appears, around
each one, where, five times a day,
Muezzin calls the faithful to prayer
from the four ends of the globe; next
the glided crescont, followed by the
dome which it surmounts; then more
and more clearly and swiftly, as if a
veil hud beon lifted, the whole of Stam
bul bursts to view from the tottering
walls along the shore of the sea, to
Santa Sophia, up and up still higher
to the lire tower; the -minarets, the
domes like miniature mountains, and
one knows not whut to admire most,
whethor the site, the old crumbling
walls, the wonderful mosque of "The
Holy Wisdom," the gracefulness of the
minarets, or the setting sun as he tints
all these wonders with red and
gold as if to mock their former wealth.
Lest you have already wearied let us
rest -here. At another time, with your
permission, I will speak somewhat
about the customs and places of inter
est In and around Stambul.
Miles Tracy Hand.
WELSH NEWS NOTES.
No wonder the Welsh denominations
are bringing out their own editions of
hymns and hymn tunes. The balance
sheet of the committee of the "Llaw
lyfr Mollant," the new hymnal of the
Welsh Baptists, Just published, shows
a balance,in 'the bank of $2,165.
The old order has given place to the
new with a vengeance In the parish of
Penderyn, In Breconshlre. The vicar
was the last on the poll for the district
council, while he was last on the list
of the eleven successful candidates for
the pariah council, being beaten by his
grave-digger!
The industrial centers of South
Wales are noted for the ease with
which nearly everybody acquires a
nickname. At one of these centers u
requisition to ask a Unionist to contest
the parliamentary seat was recently
filled with nicknames, Bttch as "Moo
Mynd l'r Mor," "Twm Coesau Ffw
rwm," and "Dal Mlngl Monga."
His many friends will learn with
much regret of the death of Mr. Chad-
w.lck, formerly secretary to Cardiff Re
form club. In early life a worshiper
at Bethany chapel, he Identified him
self of lute years with the spiritualists
and was a chief promoter as well as a
most native member 'of the Cardiff
Psychological society. The cause of
death was pneumonia.
When,Profes8or Rhys, the Jesus pro
fassor of Celtic at Oxford, was first ap
pointed In 1877 It was a standing Joke In
the common rooms that he had only
one pupil, while Professor Earle, the
Anglo-Saxon professor, hnd none. This
was due to the fact that though Pro
fessor Earle attended the Celtic lec
tures, Professor Rhys did not return
the compliment of attending the Anglo
Saxon lectures.
Rev. W. Morris, Treorky, who recent
ly Introduced the deputation that wait
ed on the Ithondda magistrates on the
necessity of a more rigorous enforce
ment of the law against profane lan
guage, -Is the secretary to the Welsh
Baptists' union, and one of the best
known men In tho denomination. A
largo number of persons have recently
been fined in the police courts of the
Rhnndda for using profane language
in the streets, so that the deputation
has already had n good effect.
A feather In thecap of another Welsh
man! The president of the Vegetarian
Federal union offered a prize of 100
for the best essay giving reasons why
licenses for the sale of liquor should
not be purchased at the highest possi
ble cost. The Judges were the presi
dent ot the Church of England Tem
perance society, Sir 'Wilfred Lawson,
Lady Henry Somerset, and the chief
Grand Templar. The prize was divid
ed between the Rev. Dr. Dawson
Burns and the Rev. J. Eiddon Jones,
Llanrug.
Rev. D. Lloyd Jones, M.A., Llandln
am, Is one of the molt versatile of
Welsh ministers. In this month's Cym
ru he has an article on "Roman Re
mains at Llandlnam," while in the
Drysorfa he has been contributing a
series of articles on "Zoroastrlanlsm."
His scientific reading Is very extensive;
ha is an ardent folklorlst, and in the
Intervals when he is not a fisher of
men he is a first-rate fisher of trout.
He la the son of the late "Jones Talys
arn," who was not only a great preach
er, but also a musical composer and a
successful man of business.
A storm Is brewing over the Prince
Llewelyn Memorial, and the "Llyw ola"
does not seem to be able to rest even In
his grave. One section of the commit
tee Is determined on erecting a monu
ment on Llewelyn's grave at Abbey
Cwm Hlr; another wants an obelisk at
Cefn-y-bedd or near the spot where he
fell; while still another Is in favor of a
Celtic Cross. A Celtic Cross will strike
the readers of Celriog as being the
most appropriate.
Yn Nyffryn Clwyd nld oes
Dim ond durn baeh o groeg
Fu-gynt yn golofn ar las fedd.
SOME BRITISH HUMOR.
From the Sheffield Telegraph.
The little girl who wrote on her exam
ination papers, "The Interior of Africa Is
principally used for purposes of explora
tlon," wus wiser than she thought.
"You never saw my hands as dirty as
that," suld a mother reproachfully to a
little girl of eight. "Because," suld Julia,
I never knew you when you were a little
girl."
The Family Skeleton:
Buck from the seuslde, bark to town,
Noses red and faces brown;
Buck to And In the dingy Hut,
The mould'ring bones of the locked-in cat.
"Thank heaven, the fuss Is all over,"
suld the bridegroom, "und I have you ull
to myself."
"Yes, returned the happy bride; "and
now let us take one. lust look at the wed
ding presents before pa sends them back
to the jeweler s.
L'enfant Terrible. Flossie Tell me,
grandma, how did you like being in the
ark with Noah?
Grandma But I was not in the ark, my
child.
Flossie Weren't you; then how was It
you weren't drowned?
He You want to know what I'd be were
not for your money?
She Yes, I do.
He A buehelor.
Gamekeeper (to small boy whom he has
caught bird-nesting) Noo, I'm Just gaun
ti gie ye a rlcht guid lick in'.
Hmull Boy Please, sir, dlnna lick me;
folk say I'm no' a' there.
Gumekeeper Weel, I canna help that;
I'll Just lick whut thore Is o' ye there.
Tha Irony lot Fate. "Why did "you
never marry, Tom?"
"Well, you see, old man, when I was
quite young I resolved I would never
marry until 1 found an ideul woman.
After many years I did find her "
"Well, then?"
"She was looking for an ideal man."
Putting Him Right. Owner of fishpond
(to man who Is trespassing) Don't you
see that sign, "No fishing here?"
Angler Yes; and I dispute It. Why,
there's good fishing here. Look at this
basketful. The man must huve been mud
who put that board up.
Visitor Tommy. I wish to ask you a
few questions In grammar.
Tommy Yes, sir.
Visitor If I give you the sentence,
"The pupil loves his teacher," what is
that?
Tommy Surcasm !
He You women have no right to the
ballot for the simple reason that In case
of a war you would not be able to tight.
She Then, why do you allow a man who
Is a cripple to vote?
He Why-er If that Isn't Just like a
woman to ask some such fool question as
that.
"He done brought de trouble on hlsse'f,"
said Mr. Krastus Plnkley. "I treated him
laik er genman, I did, t'well he made re-
mnkhs 'bout mer slngin'. Den I had ter
damage Is beauty.
"Whut did he say?"
"He said dut I had er fine tenor voice.
On'y my mouf wus so big dat de echoes
got in an' spiled de chune."
"Have you boarded long In this house?"
Inquired the new boarder of the sour, de
jected man sitting next to him.
"About ten years."
"I don't see how you stand It. Why
haven't you left long ago?"
"No other place to go," said the other
dismally, "the lundlady'B my wife."
"Pa," asked a boy of his paternal pro
genitor, a man noted for his numerous
baekslldlngs, "what are souls made of
generally?"
"What a question!" was the response.
"I am sure 1 don't know."
. "But the minister said you thought you
knew."
"He did?"
"Yes; he said he guessed you thought
that souls were made of asbestos."
A story of Scotch honesty comes from
Dundee. A small boy had tuken the prize
for an exceptionally well drawn map.
After the examination the teacher, a lit
tle doubtful, asked the lad:
"Who helped you with this miip,
James?"
"Nobody, sir."
"Come, now, tell me the truth. Didn't
your brother help you?"
"No, sir; he did It all."
Here are a budget of definitions Illus
trating the unconscious wit of children,
complied by a contemporary. Dust, "mud
with the Juice squeezed out;" salt, "what
makes potatoes taste nasty when there
Isn't any In;" wakefulness, "eyes all the
time coming unbuttoned;" fan, "some
thing to brush the wurm off with;" sob,
"when a feller don't menn to cry, and It
bursts out nil by itself;" bearing false
witness, "when nobody nln't done noth
ing and somebody goes and tells."
"Then you saw some of those beauties
of the lmrem when In Constantinople,
Colonel?"
Colonel Huwhuw I should say so.
Cnme up In my caique one night along
side some Junlsarles trying to drown one
of the sultan's wives, who was sown up
In a sack, by dropping her Into the Bos
phorus. 1 Interfered, and they oponed
the sack and I caught a glimpse of her
face, and-
Auditors' (breathlessly) And then, Col
onel? Colonel I let her drown.
Our advertising manager speaks
Oh, merchant In your hours of o e e,
If on this paper you should o c c,
Take our advice and be thrice y y y,
Go straightaway out an advert I 1 I.
You'll find the project of some u u u;
Neglect can offer no ex q q q;
Be wise at once, prolong your da a a a;
A silent business soon de k k kl
Those Tender Ways.
From the Washington Star.
See the woman.
Is she a beautiful woman?
She is a beautiful, a foxy and a mar
ried woman.
Is the woman telling her husband that
she loves him more thun ull the world?
That Is the Identical song she Is giving
him.
Can these sentiments be reconciled with
the loud talk she made the other day be
cause they don't sell boxes of cigars at
39-cent stores?
Oh, no,
Is she a woman?
She is a woman.
QUaint Suburbs
oT Quebec City
Interesting Drives and Delightful Ex
cursions Described.' '
WHERE ARNOLD MARCHED
Views Along tho Route Where the Amcr
lean Invaders Strode to their Horrl
bio Doom la the Walled City.
Other Interesting Scenes.
Special Correspondence of The Tribune.
Quebec, Jan. 7. Interesting and
beautiful as Quebec may be with its
quaint buildings and legendary memo
ties, the drives and excursions from
the city perhaps surpass the attrac
tions of the city itself. Especially at
tractive are Point Levis heights on the
opposite south shore from Quebec, the
noble St. Lawrence river, which nar
rows down to one mile In width, flow
ing between. They cover an almost
unbroken forest; their summits even
overtop Cape Diamond. They were
occupied by General Wolfe und his
British troops In the summer of 1759.
and from there Quebec was bombarded
with shot and shell until the whole of
the Lower Town was a confused mass
of ruins. Over 500 buildings in both.
Upperand LowerTown were destroyed.
Again In 1775 they were held by Bene
dict Arnold with his New England
volunteers, who after made a vain at
tempt to storm the citadel.
Among the prominent buildings on
Levis are the Ishmael church and
Point Levis convent, lying southward
of the forts. Near at hand Is the gov
ernment graving dock, a massive piece
of masonry. In rambling up and down
the queer old town, we find almost as
steep streets, fine views and a French
speakiing population which even rivals
Quebec. It Is a curiosity to interview
these "dusky roamers." The archi
tecture of this city is also a strange
medley, but a very pleasing one to the
American eye. The population Is 10,
0(. Modem Fortifications.
A description of these fort may be
of interest. Situated on these crown
ing cliffs, beyond the town, are three
Immense modern forts, erected "by the
British government since 186", at a
cost of several million dollars, to de
fend Quebec from a second bombard
ment from the opposite shore they are
one mile apart. Solidly built of ma
sonry and ourth, with large casemates
and covered ways and armed with
guns of the heaviest caliber, they are
said to be equal to any modern Euro
pean fortifications. They are triangu
lar in form, giving protection from both
sea and landward. The base facing
the city, consists simply of a solid wall,
without any defense except the ditch,
leaving it open to be battered by the
guns of the citadel in the event of occu
pation by an enemy. The two other
sides are strongly loopholed casemates
protected by a glacis (earth works) and
the cainnons placed at such angles as
to sweep the ditches, which are reached
by subterranean passages.
The ditch all around each fort la
twenty feet deep by forty feet In width
and crossed at only one point by a
draw bridge, which is removed at will.
Each fort contains at least one large
well. Each has accommodations for
400 men. There are two magazines that
contain a large amount of powder, and
while the present armament of each
fort Is light compared with Quebec, on
very short notice the three fortifica
tions could be completely armed from
the vast stores in the citadel.
Chaudlcrrc Tails.
Within nine miles of Levis are the
Falls of the Ohaudlere, which are con
sidered only second to Niagara. They
are 135 iftat n height, some forty feist
kiss thiam Niagara, but command from
the beholder a sentiment of wonder and
i we. The wild waters of the Chau
diere river rush over the precipice with
the eama grandeur and magnificence
as at Niagara and Montmorency, and
the deafening roar, which can be heard
a long distance, fairly stuns for the
first few moments the mind of ths
most stolid s-pecta-tor. Here Is seen a
breadth of river far larger than at
either Niagara or Montmorency, and a
stretch of scenery far grander, which
t-ntnanoe-s the visitor.
Down this valley. In 1775, the Ameri
can General Arnold, and his brave but
HI provided followers marched, possibly
to the tune of "Yankee Doodle," sing
ing "We arc marching forward to Quebec,
The drums are loudly beating,
America hus gained the day,
And the British are retreutlng."
From the banks of tills river they first
looked upon the city which eventually
proved their prison or their grave. It
will be remembered that this march
was one of unparalleled hardship and
suffering. Our soldiers were obliged to
eat their dogs, a.ud even their mocca
sins and buckskin breeches, arriving
at thteir dfistln-atlon with only 700 men
in a famished amd pitiable condition.
New Liverpool and Sillcry.
Five miles south of Quebec, on the St.
Lawrence -river, is New Liverpool. Its
parish church, St. Rouald, Is said to ba
the most cof tly and Imposing edifice on
the Lower St. Lawrence, and is famed
for Its beautiful frescoes and paintings.
Its gilded spire is a landmark for miles.
On ithe opposite shore, three miles
from Quebec, La Sillcry, a parish of 3,000
inhabitants, and on the river front are
I Bevc.nte.on covea, where most of the
lumber of Quebec Is guarded. Acres
upon aotvi of lumber rofta cover these
receaseft. The Convent of Jesus Marie,
and the Church of St. Columba stand,
on the nights above, on the extremity
of the Pilalns of Abraham, whore tn
times picat were the camps of the Al
gonquin tribe of Indiana. This large
church was built In 1G77.
Driving on -the Ste. Foye road to the
northwest of ithe city, we reach the
tairge suburbs of St. Roch'sand St. Sau
veur. with thielr spacious parish
churches wltose gilded domes glisten,
for mlleis around.
There Is an Interesting monument
about two miles from the city, erected
to Generals Levis ami Murray, In.
memory of the attempts by the French
to ire-"take Quebec In 1760. It Is a tall
shaft, the base surmounted by captured
caninon.
Proceeding southward near the Ste.
Foye church, we reach the St. Louis
road. Where we get a -grand view of the
Bt. Charles valley, the Laurentldes and
the fit. Laiwreince liver below Quebec,
reaching far as Oape Tourmente,
and In fine weather the spray from
Montenurenoy Falls, seven miles dis
tant, Is clearly discernible.
There are many fine residences on
this road (St. Louis), whose extensive
and well-kept grounds remind us of
our English-American country eeatis.
Villas and maiivslona are on each side,
and t-h'9 drive at tlmea leads through
avenues of graceful elms, Btately pines
and fine birch trees, whose branches
and follaire, In summer time, doubtless
form a graceful festoon, and extend
a gnatef ul shade over the road.
, John E. Richmond. ,