. THE SCUAKTOS TlttBtttfE-SATURDAY JtOIttfItf(3V SEPTEMBER 1. 1894. 11 HEROES BRAVE 10 BE PRESENT Interesting and Timely Suggestions Arising from the Pittsburg EaoampnuaL AMONG THE NATION'S DEFENDERS The Point of Confluence of the Monon gahela and the Allegheny a Peculiarly Fitting Place for This Year's Meet ing of the Veterans of the Grand Army of the Republic A Glance Into the Future History, Past, Present and to Come Searched for Facts and Fancies AnDrooriate to the Big Reunion. iCopvrlgM 1 cidiion ciife time by tp II Vt Amtrican Preii Jmn lihei in the Haturdaf M arranflenwnl The pan lot tho Grand Army of the ttammr on Sept 11 may possibly bo losa Imposing in point of numbers than some which havo taken place In the past, especially those at Boston. Washington and Indianapolis, although Pittsburg lies in tho center of stretch of territory which furnished CAPTAIN J. B. ADAMS, COMMANDER IH CHIEF. more than one-third of the Boldiors of the war the states of Pennsylvania, New York and Ohio. But whethor the eatherina be largo or small tho event is groat in significance and in the sng eestions for new ideas or tho rearrange ment of former ones which it brings with it The anniversary is hold upon soil peculiarly sacred to the cause rep' resented at this gathering. Pennsylva nia gave more sons according 10 ner quota as a sacrifice to the god of battles than any other state in the Union. She stood on tho border in 1861. She sunt the first volunteer defenders to the im periled oapital in the crisis following Sumter. Her genius ruled in the na tional camps and councils, and within her limits, fair set among the charming hills of the Cumberland, lies tho battle field of Gettysburg. Cold must be the heart that will not respond bofitting the occasion and give tho hour to grati tude and congratulation. There remains little to be said of the sacrifices of tho armies whoso remnants 12. Four huuflred thotfsaufl dead and a long procession of tho stricken and maimed is the story the nation knows, alas, too welL But there is another sido to tha patriotism of the Union soldier that might be recalled today, a lees grewsomo one to dwell upon and a more noble one because it furnished the in spiration for those deeds of courage whose glory brightens as the years roll on. It would be an easy task to prove that the Grand Army, itself a body I unique in the world's experience, is not due to military clanship uor to tho protective union principle which is so active in this era. Tho genius of the Grand Army lived in tho broasta of the soldiery in the war days, and the mind is almost startled to come upon such witnesses to the fact as this poem of Miles O'Reilly's, "The Song of the Sol diers," written in camp in 1802: Comrades known in marches many, Comrades tried In dangers many, Comrades bound by memories many. Brothers ever let as be. Wounds or sickness may divide us, r-Y.l.. 1 ... .... But whatever (ate betide 06, Brothers of the heart are w e. Comrades known by faith the clearest. Tried when death was near and nearest, Bound we are by tie the dearest, Brothers evermore to bo. And if spared and growing older, Shoulder still in line with shoulder. And with hearts no thrill the colder. urotnere ever we snail be. communion or the banner. Imson. white and starrv banner. imren oi one onorcn are we. I nor faction can divide us. whatever fate betide us, i nothing of sordid selfishness paste or guild ezclusiveness breathing through those lines. No more were there to be found in the hearts of Stephenson and his colleagues, who in their bivouao in tho southwest in 1804 dreamed out their magnificent scheme for perpetuating in peace the spirit of fraternity, charity and loyalty which charaoteriied the soldiers in the field. The veterans' estimates of v thomsolves are far too modest when they rest satis fied with eulogies npon their battlefield prowess and their heroio bearing under severest hardship, and if proximity to scenes so rich in war associations shall unloose the tongues of Commander in Chief-Adams and his staff of orators at the enoampmeni they may give to the careless yet responsive throngs of out siders new oause to doff their hats to the Grand Army. They will toll us how $he soldier set the pace for Union savers in 1861. and how, by the guiding and shaping amid the storm and stress of civil war of these same men, the yeo manry, who filled, the ranks as volun teers 80 years ago, this vast nation sprang into existence from an aggregation of states whose watchword until then both north and south had been state suprema cy. They might give voice to the claim that the beardless boys, who, as for as time and Confederate bullets have spared them, will appear in the march ing lines at Pittsburg, alone made the war possible, alone made possible those viotories and results which the encamp ment; standing out as the exponent of t)M military spirit of the nation, cele brates with due civio and military eclat The war that is, the war now hold In memory, that which announces itself by cannon peal and the "clash of resounding arms" would not have been M HI oommenoed nor maintained but for their Spartan vim, their virile, aggres sive, unsordid and unfaltering attitude when statesmen hesitated and civio leaders trembled; that the war was right and everlastingly right and must go on and that they would stand surety for its success, Ead there been no volunteer army with its blood up, no martyred Ellsworths and Bakers and Lyons and Winthrops appealing from their crimson shrouds with "llfoblood warm and wet," no Cushings and Ellcts and Wordens and Morrises and Farraguts to tread the decks, and no Hancocks, no Warrens, no Uptons, no Costers and no Sheri dans, with their firm battalions stand ing Bword in hand, the war would have fizzled out in six months for lack of en thusiasm. This is history, and because the veteran when all was accomplished glided quietly back to his oommonplace groove as a man and a neighbor, show ing many uf the weaknesses and foibles of the common mold, is no reason for losing sight of the grander part of him. A slice of Napoleon's high minded phi losophy would suit the occasion. "I remember nothing but Austerlitz, " ho said when people complained to him truthfully that his old marshal, Soult, who had mado Napoleon and France by his wonderful genius and valor on that field, was becoming ambitious and solf important. "As ho fought thon think of him," and there will bo no room for too familiar trifles to break tho spell of distance. THE G. A. R. IN THE FUTURE. Tho veterans passed the half century point soino years ago. Haw long will they remain upon the stage in sufficient numbers to givo spirit to ceremonies commemorating the qivil war? Twenty years from now we shall be celebrating the centennial of the victories at Lun dy's Lauo, Lake Champlain and Balti more; also that of Jackson over Paken ham at New Orleans, and about that time the semicentennial of tho closing battles of the civil $var. Is it a daring assumption to prcsumo that there will then be living twice as many Union veterans as tliero were boys in blue on any of tho battlefields of 1801-5? There are good grounds for believing that such will be the caso. There were about 2,000,000 individ uals recruited for tho Union armies, of which number 800,000 (official figures) died in service, and at least 40,000 died after discharge during tho war who are not included in tho government statis tics. At the close of the war, then, in 1805, thero were living about 1,000,000 veterans averaging about 26 years of age. At the average rate for men in health the number would decrease in 30 years about 480,000, leaving 1,120,- 000 survivors in 1894. About four years ago the pension and Grand Army roles and the rosters of veteran associations showed 1,330,000 survivors, but part of tho figures were not trustworthy, and a revision of them, together with the deaths of the past five years, has brought tho number down to 1,000,000. In other words, thero have been 600,000 deaths in 80 years, an increase of tho usual mortuary rate. But if there are only a million loft, these being of ad vanced, ago ond the mortuary rate has been excessive thus far, does that argue against marshaling an army of them 20 years hence? Their average ages now are about 50. The death report of the departments of Michigan and New York for 1893 and of tho national encamp nient for the wholo United States for 1893 shows that the mortuary rate, is less than tho average recognized by in surance actuaries. The Michigan report for 20, 000 vetor ans, averaging 55 years, showed a mor tality of 15 to 1,000, that of New York a rate of 20 in 1,000 among 41,000, and the national report for 400,000 men.'in- eluding inmates of soldiers' homes, pre sumably tho least healthy of the surviv ors, a rate of 17 to 1,000. Tho average age of the veterans in 1894 is usually fixed at 55 by experts, and the rate of mortality for averago men at that ago is about 22 in 1,000. That the loss since the war has been excessive no one will dispute, but that naturally would occur in tho decatlo following the soldiers discharge. Mou wcro discharged for wounds and diseases by the hundreds of thousands, and no doubt death claimed them within a fow years at a rate three or four times greater than the average "BOUSD ARE WE BY TIES." tor civilians. Over 200,000 men died from diseases in tho army, and it must be supposed that the seeds of death were brought out of the army by tens of thousands of those discharged out of hospitals or prison parole camps. As has buen stated, the death rate is now much under the averago for civil lans, and the veteran at 55 or CO, or even ot 67 which is probably tho proper age to consider all things being equal, has one chance in three of reaching 76 and of taking part in the double celebration of 1915, and each of the 200,000 or 800, 000 alive at that date will nave one chance in flvo of reaching tho age of 86 as one of the 40.000 or 60,000 survivors. At tho present time there is about one veteran in every 0 inhabitants, old aud young, or in every 12 adult men, and at that date, if the population in creases normally, there will be one to every 1,700 people or every 850 adult men that is to say that in the average gathering of 850 men at a patriotio meeting or on election there will be one tottering veteran of 86 years. Not much chance for G. A. E. gatherings then, surely, except in the great cities. The record of longevity among tho veterans of the war of 1813 and of the Mexican war instalnB these calculations, and this thought has been carried still further by a writer in the Washington Post, who sees the dramatio and interesting climax a generation beyond that I have-Jhinted at, or at the middle of the next century, witn the centennial days of the Mexi can war, the discovery of gold and the conquest oi California. Heiayt: U i 1, Herein re we admonished by nnseen lips and Innumerable voices that the day will some time dawn when of all the Grand Army of the Republic, now year by year closing in thinner ranks around the craves of their departed com rades, thero shall be bnt one survivor to staud lonewatoU at the portals of tho "eternal camp- lug ground." It is an impressive If not bewildering thought It carries ns to a period when the millions of today shall be doubled, and when among the teeming host bmded with their own ambi tions, confronted with new responsibilities, radiant In the light of new revelations, stran gers, except through history, to tho mighty events out or which so glorious a destiny was wrought, this solitary soldier shall be tho sole reminder and Incarnation, as It were, of the heroio age of the Union. Tho war of the American Revolution closed In 1783. At that time a soldier belonging to the regiment of New York militia commanded by Colonel Marlnns Willett, who had been four years In the army, was a young man of E3. Eighty-six yean later, April 6, 1809, having reaohed the great age of 109, he was gathered to his heroio fathers at the town of Freedom (not inaptly named), Cattaraugus county, X. Y. His name was Daniel F. Bakeman, and he was the last of the Revolutionary pensioners under special act of congress. The last of the Revolutionary pensioners on the regular roll was Samuel Downing of Sara toga county, N. Y., who enlisted as a private In 1780, when only li, and died In 1867 at 101. Only SO. years ago there walked among ns one who bore a musket at tho surrender of Cornwallls, yet lived to hear the tidings of the suriender at Appomattox! These Incidents furnish no data, of course. on which to base exact foreknowledge of the time when there shall remain In the land of the living only a single soldier of the great ar mies that wcro disbanded in 1S65, but it is not unreasonable to suppose that, evon If none of tho veterans of the war Is spared to the extraor dinary age of Danlol Bakeman, it will lie re served to some of them to turn the century point. If there Is a soldier who, like Bninucl Downing, was but 17 when discharged from the servieo, and HveB to Downing's age, he will dlo lnllHO. If 23 at the time ox his discharge, and ho lives to the fivescore and nine of Daniel Bakeman, he will die in 1951. The chnnccB are that the man who is destined to bear the proud but melancholy distinction of being the last survivor will not be living later than 1950. And what a retrospect will be bis as, stand ing upon this remote and isolated acclivity, he peoples the hazy distances of the past with THE LAST BCRVIYOU. armies and banners; with the great captains long since called to their reward; with the charge and countercharge of legions melting in the smoke of tho conliict; with tie sheeted dead that haunt vast battlefields; With the final blending into skies of blue the vanishing clouds of gray, the aftermath of glory, the grand review, the grateful Incense of peace and the line of march toward Immortality, of which uncounted headstones are then the only traces, savo his worn and weary self, waiting for the signal of welcome from tbe shining ramparts Just above lilinl Sixty years from today It may be, in some great cemetery of the nation's dead, or haply within some quiet churchyard, will be reared a mound of flowers over the grave of the last survivor, for, though he be a stranger among strangers, a waif upon the shore left by the re coding tide, with not a comrade to bear him company, he will not be unbefriended. There will be sons of veterans, grandsons of veterans. daughters and granddaughters of veterans to guard his declining footsteps, to smooth his dying moments, subllmer far than those of Napoleon at St. Helena, to wrlto his wondrous epitaph and over his ashes build a luting mon umcnt. Many and momentous may ho the changes that our country in tho evolution of Its prog, ress shall meanwhile witness. The flag that floats atiove us this morning in all its constel lated spleudor may gleam with other stars, transplanted to its azuro Hold from both the northern and southern firmaments. New con ditions may be developed to challenge the pro. foundest philosophy and bravest statesman ship of the age In their adjustment to an ad vancing civilization. Dangers that we wot not of may arlso in the solution of social and ceo noniic problems to further tax tho stability of our institutions. Hut in God good provi. denco the covenant of union, sealed wl til the blood of opulent self sacrifice, the fragrance of which aecends today from a hundred thousand altars, shall remain unbroken and Immutable, like the bow of promise in Its beauty, but like the overarching heavens themselves in Its bending majesty and perennial duration. The citizens of Pittsburg are to make an unusually lavish display of Old Glory during encampment week. Louisville and Atlanta are striving after the encampment in 1895, in order, as they say, to "bridge tho bloody chasm." The Sons of Veterans and tho nation al guardsmen, in full uniform, will act as guides to the visiting comrades in thoir travels about the city. No tents at Pittsburg, says Command' er iu Chief Adams. Tho veterans aver ago 65 years of ago, and the older boys aro juf t". tho ones who do not wish to miss an encampment nor come away with aches and pains. So the quarters will bo in substantial barracks or in hotols, halls and private houses. G. K LKtraox. Two Signs. A hasty and Inconsiderate breeze played a mean trick a day or two ago on the little old woman who grinds a hand orgun on Fourteenth street near Sixth avenue. black tin placard hung on the front of the wheezy instrument, telling in white letters to passers by, "I am paralysed." Sudden ly a vigorous gust of wind swept around the corner, and catching the placard on the tinder side swung it well out of its perpen dicular and turned It completely over. When the wind, the dust and tho flying particles of paper subsided there sat tbe little old woman mechanically grinding out "Annie Rooncy" behind the pathetic lncription on the sheet of black tint "Kind friends, I have been blind since childhood." New York Times. HIDDEN TREASURES. Thero are treasures locked and sealed, Never to the eye revealed; There are songs whose hlddon flow Mortal ear can never know. There are flowers whose perfect hue Seems to shrink from common view, And a ruthless human touch Is a death blow unto such. There are lives that stand alone, To the outer world unknown: Only here and there they And Kindred spirits in mankind. Scattered through the crowded street, One or two wo somotlmes meet; What on earth can be so rare As the love each faces wear? - What In heaven can excol The serene and magic spell Found In such responsive love, : Leading us to God above? Annie Russell tu Now York Ledger, u 11 (ULiLliliVUlili 11 (OLiiiiU ooo GOOD MANNERS. Jndlo Chollet on the Occult Law of Trifles In Etiquette. Ono of the worst bronchos of etiquette) of which you can bo guilty Is to attempt to teach )'onr acquaintances etiquette. If you invito 0 friend to luncheon at a res taurant, for instance, or aocopt her invita tion, you thereby confess that a degree of social equality exists between you and her, and if she cots licr oysters with an or dinary fork iDBtcuu of with the trldcut that has been specially provided for that pur- SILK TOILET. peso it is not wllbia your provlnco to cor rect her, unless she Han previously recog nized you ns a guardian of hor manners. If slio ohooses to convey ice cream to her mouth by moans of a spoon instead of a fork, lot her do it unmolested, tho matter Is not of tho slightest consequence, and to be in constant fear of transgressing soino occult luw of ctlquetto one's self or of as sociating with persons who do so Is to prove ono's self not to tho manner born and by naturo a snob. F.ven if your coun try guest cats with her knife in public you will prove) yourself a provincial by paying any attention to it. It happens to bo her custom, to which she 1ms boon reared, and if you navo a cosmopolitan mind it will bo too insignificant a thing to worry you. However technically perfect your own manners may be, they will exhibit a glar ing deficiency if you correct thoso of other grown persons. Besides you ore not suro of infallibility, and It is not lmpossiblo that you may occasionally rebuke a per son who knows even moro on the subject than you do and is behaving quite proper ly in tho eyes of tho cultivated world. When sho cats hor cliceso with her knife, sho is merely following tho Knglish habit, and it Is quite permissible to tuko olives, corn, undressed lettuce and lump sugar in tho fingers. Again, many of the actions that you consider faulty may bo duo to the absonco of mind engendered by lively conversation, while others are accidents to which anybody is liable. Most persons whom one meets socially have a sufficient knowledge of etiquette to be at easo among tho people with whom they associate, and that is all that Is neces sary. A really well bred person nover rests hor faith on such minute trillos as the angle at which tho knife is loft or tho number of crumbs to bo permitted to fall from tho pieco of bread. Consideration for others Is the foundation of all good maimers, and the man or woman who lacks that has nicro affectation in the placo of tact and trua politeness. Tho sketch shows a gown of roso and gold changeable silk. The skirt drapery is of whlto nioussclino do sole, the bodico of white guipure, the sleeves and girdle of old yellow satin and the two bows of cherry velvet ribbon. " """" NEATNESS IN DRES3. Baste Is tho Mother of Many Sins Ct Omis sion and Commission. ' These uro the days when neatness in dress goes under tho namo of smartness, says a common senso fashion writer, and the smartly gowned woman owes hex suc cess to the fact that sho makes everything secure and tidy before she leaves her room, invariably making a ilnul careful scrutiny of her attire as sho stands, fully dressed, before her mirror. Sho who boasts that It BATISTE TOILKT. never takes hor a minute to dicss may be fully assured hat there will bu abundant shortcomings in hor raiment to bear wit ness to tho truth of her statement. Tho bonnet and dress covered with dust col lected during yesterday's walk; tho veil badly adjusted; hooks that scan to havo a mortal antipathy for thoir corresponding eyes; luckless hairpins hanging, like tho swordof Dumoeles, by asinglohair. These aro some of tho sins of omission or com mission that tell us she (devotes Insuffi cient timo to hor toilet. Jiellevo mo, you may possess tho most c.tpiuislvo of gowns, bonnets, boots and gloves,) yet if they aro Improperly enrrd for and (carelessly worn your neat Uttlo neighbor, with her ''made ovor" dress and hor 1iht yevr's bonnet, will put you to shame in the nutter of porsonal appearance. Thero is a gentility about her which brino.e her tho mostiiloasing atten tions, and men and womuil alike pay her homage becuuso sho is so rW and trim. .She is a firm believer in thai Inst look in the mirror. If tho mirror Is full length ono, so much tho better, for tklngs soiuo times go wron g w 1th tho lower rt of a cos tume, of which the wonror, locking down upon herself, is quite Ignorant f but which nro perfectly evident to evorybcBy else. A Bkotch'ls given of a gown i old blue bntlsto trimmed with white gulijuro. The sash Is of whlto satin. Dir. I rnllck's lUuorloncft, la his seafaring life the late Flnry Fra lick, of Grand Rapids, hod matV advent ures, among them that of beingyjwed by a sperm wbalo eighty miles in a lircle be fore the monster was brought to W, He visited St. Helena and brought liome a twig from a willow troo that gnv over Nupoloon's grave, Ha planted it w New York state aud saw it grow to A larto tree, When clerk at the Exchange hotel In De troit, in ltwO, the great land ucseUattoa ml fever was on, and the entire territory was tilled with land lookers. The land office in Detroit was so crowded with npplicints that it became necessary to tlo.tj tho oilice for three weeks at a tiuiu to let the clerks catch up. lit) made con siderable money by buying numbers from speculators, who became weary of waiting, aud selling them to late comers, lie often realized $100 on a deal of this kind, and laid the foundation for his future business op erations. Detroit News. SOMETHING ABOUT SILKS. The Best China and India Bilks Come From Lyons. All tho best china and India silks, so called, come from Lyons. In fact, there is no sort of silk tissue not made there and better mado thero than anywliuro else. Damask, forerunner of brocade, camo from Damascus. Indeed thero is a flavor and fragrance of tho east through all tho bead roll of silken stuffs. Designing silks Is something that era ploys und pays well for much of tho best artistic talent .n France. A pattern that takes moans fortune to tho mill that ainkes it. Each houso has its own pat torn makers and guards jealously tho fruit of thoir labors. A pattern cannot be protected by lotters patent. A largo buyer may, though, se curo from tho maker cxcltislvo control of tho sorts ho buys. It behooves him to buy carefully, prayerfully. Tho verdict of a potty jury is not moro uncertain thnn that of tho silk wearing public. Shrewd ad vertising, good display, may do something toward influencing it, but the pattern thut toward tho closo of the season Is volumi nously In stock is ot ouce bowed down In price und cast upon tho bargain counter. Kach year thero fire new surfaces in vari ety, but all of them resolve themselves into tho original elementary combinations posslblo to the handlooru. Molro lins its Benson when it is unseasonable, stripes como and go, but silk goes on forever. Tho uso of it increases yearly, and It I safe to sny that tho consumption will doU' bio in tho next 20 yours. Yet tho market for raw silk Is merely "steady." China, Japan und India are such Inexhaustible storehouses of It thai thoy can send us twice our needs without materially affecting the price. Thero have boon sporadic efforts to raise silk in the United States, but. so fur we CnAKOEABLE TAFFETA GOWX. have produced so small an amount In com parlson that It is not worth mentioning. Tho skotch bIiows a gown of rose and green changoablo taffeta, trimmed With whlto lace, green mousseline do solo and arrow Jet passcmotenc. Jcdic Chollet, BITS OF GLOVE HISTORY. They Were First Worn With a Thumb and No Fingers. A writer Interested in the history of the wardrobo tells us that gloves wero not known in England until near tho closo of tho tenth century and wero then worn with a thumb and no finger, liko mittens. They wero larger in every way than they needed to bo, and wonderously embroider- cd and starred with jewels. JNo, gloves wero finer than thoso of the clergy. They wero mostly of whlto silk or linen, cun ningly broidercd and somotlmes fringed With pearls, One ecclesiastic had a red silk pair, with tho sacred monogram worked on tho back, surrounded with a golden glory, and later on they had gloves to match their different vestments. In fact, gloves had departed from the primary idea of utility and becomo a decoration. Thoy wero too magnificent for common weur and were frequently carried in the hand or worn In tho girdle. It was by tho fine gloves his page hud in his girdlo thut Cceur de Lion was betrayed on his way home from tho crusade, and so fe.l into captiv ity. But already tho glove was moro thnn a mero bit ot foppery. Tho knight's mailed glove sheltered his hand. It became a sign of power, and when a gracious lord meant to Blgnlfy his Intention to protect a town he sent his glovo as a sure sign of his will ingness. Tho glove, too, was the token of defiance when one knight declared war against another, und to show his fealty to his mistress ho bound her broUlorcd glovo to his helmet. Long gloves camo in at tho end of tho seventeenth century. Noll Gwy line's gloves wero a proverb for their beauty. All through this timo gloves wero prettily sot olf with lace, ribbons und fringe, although tho fashion of tho finer nrtlstlo embroidery of tho middle ages was falling into disuse. Tho bare hand wns deemed un offense, and tho costliness of BHD ASD PINK COSTUMK. gloves" defined thoir wearer's social" "posf tlon. Tho illustration shows a gown of rose batiste trimmed with vivid red satin and White lace, This thoroughly Fronoh cos tume is oomplrted by a green straw hat trimmed, with rod roses and wiito qullla. til iii FRILLS AND FURBELOWS. Even niatem and Eton Jackets Aro Orna mented With Thcui This Hcason. Not only is millinery moro profusely decorutcd than it was last year, but every thing else is correspondingly more ornate. Frills and furbelows of ull kinds adorn gowns and wraps, and even blazers und Eton, jackets have been ornamented out of their pristine character. This is a very be coming freak of fashion to the slender American typo of woman, and sho had better make the most of it. Every indication of height in the matter of sleeves hns disappeared, but they aro permitted to extend horizontally as far as BLUE BEROE COSTUME. ono desires. This horizontal effect is ad ditionally carried out by means of wide eollurs and revers. Sleeves uro invariably largo above tho elbow, whether plain or trimmed, bkirtsaro less llnrlng than they wero during the winter, and many among the l-rench models aro plain, although trimmed ones enjoy greater favor here. The long coat is not so much seen as it was. It contains too much cloth for warm weather wear and Is not in general use, al though it Is occasionally seen made up In thin goods. Eton jackets aro of course short. Tho new blazers uro ulso short, and few coats lmrea basque more than 20 inches long. If a fashion, such us tho long coat, or instance, happens to bo especially be- oming to some particular woman, if she is sensible sho will continue to wear It un til it becomes obsolete or so nearly so us to appear absurd. Tho fashion was mado for wouiun, not woman for the fashion; there fore let her exorclso her privileges and cleave unto the styles that are her own by right of litncss. White enters largely into costumes of tho present season. A sketch is given of a gown of grenadier bluo serge, with a rather full skirt and an exceptionally long coat girdled at tho waist by a white silk sash tied at tho left side of tho front. Tho coat has flaring cuffs of white silk, and rovers and flaring collar lined with tho same material. Tho revers part to display a Whlto silk vest huving a wrinkled collar and a full jabot of luce. A hat of bluck luco straw accompanies tho gown. It is lined with blue velvet and trimmed with bluck ostrich plumes. THE FLORID GIRL'S BETE NOIR. the Should Shun Black If She Desires to Tone Down Tier Complexion. A gown of thin black goods is an ex tremely useful unit of tho summer ward robo. Its wear in city streets is to bo dep recated if tho material be of a lacy tcx- turn, but for house, carriage or out of town uso It Is eminently satisfactory. A beautiful quality of largo meshed silk net Is shown for summer dresses. It Is rather expensive, as it is only a yard wldo Instead of tho usual 45 inches, but it will wear practically forever, being of a Ann texturo. It is to be found both pluin and sprinkled with small dots. For outdoor BLACK NET COWJf. purposed this should bo lined throughout with black silk, and worn with a colored hot and parasol tho effect will bo charm ing, but for tho house tho sleeves and up per part of tho corsafni rcqnlrc no lining, fconio women havo a bluck laco bodice mndo entirely unlined and wear it ovor different silk bodices of varying colors, 'Wa a lace corsniro looks far better -held. In shnpo by a fitted lining. A novelty in Bilk and wool greradlno is displayed having a moiro stripe alternat ing with a wool ono broended with small silk Dowers. This material is not trans parent, but iaof light quality, and although thin Is rhh looking, so much so as to fN Gultablo only for middle aged and elderly women. Pluin bluck silk muslin Is also seen and Is a very pretty sort oi stuff, thin and cool. Thcso black gowns aro in good tnsto and generally becoming, but there Is at least ono type of woman who should shun bluck with n dull ilulsl), aud that is tho florid type. Instead of txyntng down hor color, It Increases It tenfbht by contrast and is as detrimental to tho nppearanoo ot her complexion us turquolso blue, which Is putting it strongly. A woman who Is inclined to ovcrtlushlng should never ven ture to woar dull bluck unless she niodJlle. it by a liberal uso of cherry or scarlet, which are strong enough tints to make her skin look white. A sketch is given ot a gown of dotted net, the skirt of which Is cuught up with bands of Jot. Tho corselet and collar ara of satin trimmed With jot, The olbow sleeves aro divided into, two puffs bya band of jet, and jet brorwits trim the front of the bodice, Jfrno Chollet. To, cure canker get white pine bark fresh, from tho treo, if possible, and steep a strong tea from it. In another dish steep a atrong tea from common sage leave. Strain and pat equal quantities together while hot, adding enough pnro bee' honey to make it very sweet. Use it either warm or cold, rinsing the month and gargling the throat with it several times a day. If some should chance to bo swallowed then 1 ft need be no cause for alarm, j , CENTRAL RAILROAD OF K J. LEHIGH AND SUSQUEHANNA DIVISION Anthracite coal used exclusively, insuring cleanliness and comfort. TIME TABLE IN (PPEOT MAT 20, 188L Trains Wvi Hrr&ntnn far PftfrfnM toi,w. Bnrre. etc.. at 8 20. W.I.V 11.. m i sn iin 8.:, S OU, t.i 11.0S p. m. Sundays, 8.U) a. in! i.w, .io, 7.1UD. m. or Aiiantio uny, s.20 a. m. Fur Now York. Newark nit Vllntuttfc a m (express) a. m.. 12.50 roinrnss with n'frk parlor car), 3.30 (express) p. m. Sunday, tli p. m. Fob Maitcr Chcnk, Aixentows, Bethl. U60. S.30, 6.00 (exoeDt Phll.rt.lnhi.-i .... Bundny, 2.16 p. m. For Lono BiuMm Ofiviitf riDnv, ... &2 (th ,tnroKl' car) a. m.. 12.W p. m. For Heading, Lebanon and Harrisbure, via f ie2. twn" " la60, m' p-n1, Buday For Pottsville, 8.20 a. m., 12.10 p. m. Keturntne. Inn K Vnrk ,,.., t ivt fWi.A0! mer- rt &1 ("press) a. m.. 1.10, LdO, 4.91 (express with Buffet parlor carj p. m. (Sunday, 4.80 a. m. Leve f'aUadelphla, Reading Terminal, IM - " auu -.w u. III. OUUUaV. , Z TT. uiuuK rough tickets to all points at lowest ratel be had on application In advance to the it agout at the station. mav ticket H. P. BALDWIN. OLHAUSEN, eILlW Gen. Supt J. H. DELAWARE AND HUD SON RAILROAD. Commencing Mnndiv .Tnlv 30, all trains will arrive and depart from the now Lack awanna avenue station at Mruiiows: l" Trains will lesve Scran ton station for Carbondala and Intermediate points at 2.20. S.4.ri. 7 00. 8 2.1 .nil In ill .ra., 12.00, 2.20, 8.65, s.U, tui, 1M, t.10 and ii. p.m. For Pnrviow. Wavmart and TTnnMrinla nk 7.00. 8.25 and 10.10 a.m., 12.00,8.10 and 6.15 o.m. Fcr Albany, Saratoga, the Adirondack and Vo:itr,ial at 6.Vi a m. and 2,20 p. in. ror wines-iiarre ana intermediate points at 7.46, 8.45. 8.3S aud 10.45 a.m, 1100, 1,2ft 2.38. 4.(0. 6.10, 8.P5, 1i.lt, and 11.88 p.m. Trains will arrive at Scranton Button from Carbondala and rfitprmAillntA mixta at ? in .9i?4.n.1.1,0-40 a ra- UJ 4.54, 5.5ft. 7.45, 9 11 and 11.83 p.m. From Hune9d ale. Wavmart and Farvlnw 0.34 a.m.., 1100, L17, 3.40. 565 and 7.45 p.m. rrom Montreal, baratoga. Albany, etc., at 4.54 ana 11. W p.m. From vilkee-Barre and Intermediate point at 2.15, 8.01, UK and 11 65 a.m., 1 W. 1L 8.SK. 6.10, B.0S, Va, K.03 and 11 18 p.m. ' MAY IU, 14. Train leaves Bcranton for Philadelphia and Now York via. D. & H. R R. at 7.46 a.m.. 120.il 8.0H, 11.20 a. in., and 1.30 p. m. Leave Bcranton for Plttston and Wilkes Barre via D.. L. AW. R. H, 6.00, &08, 11.29 a. m., 1.80, &50. 0.07. S.iOp. m. Leave Scranton for Whito Haven, Hazleton, Pottsville and all points on the Beaver llendow and Pottsville branches, via E. & W. y.Bitim-Tlft,D-T? H B- ' a.m., 12.06. 8.88. 4.IO p.m. via D., U W. R. R, 6.00, 8.04, 11.20 a.m., 1.30, a 50 p.m. Leave Bcranton tor Bethlehem, Easton. Reading, Harrisburg and all intennedhit points via D.& &K.Bl7. a.m.,12.05, t.88, 1L84 run., via D., L. & W, B, R..6.00,S.0d. 1L20 a. m, l.m p.m. Leave Scranton for Tunkhannock, Towanda, Elmlra, Ithaca, Ooneva and all Intermediate points via D. & H. K.R.,8.to a.m.,12.03 and 11.34 P-Tm-.via , D. L. A W". R. R., 8.05 a.m.,l.30p. m. Leavj Scranton for Rochester. Buffalo, Ni agara Falls, Untroit, Chicago and all point: West rial). & H. R. R . a.m..l2.05,.15.11.l p. m.. via D. L. & W. R. R. and Pittstoa Junction. aOS a.m MO, 8.50 p. m.. via E. & W. it.rC., 3.41 p. xn. For Eunira and the west via Salamanet, via D. & H. R. R. S.4.. a.m., 1405,6.05 p. m.. via D L. & W. K. K., ,8.08 a.m., 1.30 and W p. m. Pullman parlor and sleeping or L. V. chair curs on all trains between L. & B. Junction or Wllkos-Uarre and New York, Philadelphia, Buffalo and Suspension Bridtre. ROLLIN H. WILBUR, Qen. Supt. . OH AS. 8, LEE. (Hn. pass. Ag't, Phlla.,P. A.W.NONNEMACHER.Ass't Oen.Pass. Ag't, South Bethlehem, Pa. DELAWARE, LACKAWANNA AND WESTERN RAILROAD. Trains leave Scranton as follows: Express for New York and ah points East. 1.40, 2.H 6.1N 8.00 aod 9.6s a. m.;lZ 66 and 3.50 p, m. Express for Kaston, Trenton. Philadelphia and the South, 5.14 8.00 and .6i a, m.; U.4 and 8.50 p. m. Washington and war ntatlons, 8.55 p. m. Tobyhanna aoroinmodatlon, 6.10 p. m. Expr sa for Binghamtou, Oswogo, Elmlra, Corning, Bath. DansvUle, Monnt Morris anil Buffalo, 12.10, 116 a. m. ad 124 p. m,, makinif close connections at Buffalo to all points in the West, N orthwest and Soathweau Bath accommodation, 9 a m. Blnghamton and way stations, 12.87 p. m, N lcnolaou accommodation, at 1 p. m. ant) 6.10 p. m. Blnghamton and Elmlra Express, 60S p. so. Express for Cortland, Syracuse, Oawsirx Ctioa and Richfield Springs, 2J4 a. m. and L2 p. in. Ithaca. 2.16 and Bath 9 a. m. and lrtn. ra. For Northumberland, rHttaton, Wllkes-Barrsv Plymouth, Bloomaburg and Danville, making close connections at Northumberland fof WllUamsport, Harris burg, Baltimore, Washt lngton and tbe South. No lorthumborland and Intermediate stations. 6.00, W W a. m. and 1JH and 8.07 p. m. Nautiroae ana intermediate stations, 8.01 and 11.20 a. m. Plymouth aud luWrmedUta stations, 8.50 and 8.G J p. ra. Pullman parlor and sleeping coaches on all express trains, . . , For delallod Information, pooketttmstablsa, etc, apply to M. L. Smith, city tloket offloe, iLW Laukawannaavenue, or depot Uuketolnoe, ERIE AND hOAD WYOMING VALLEY BAIL Trains leave Scranton for New York and In termediate points on tb'd Erie railroad at 6.HS a. m. aud 8.24 p. m. Also for Honesdale, Hawley and local joints at 6.85, 9.45 a. m., anl 3.24 p.m. Ail the a bore ara through trains to and from Huneoit.ale. An adjKi.io.nal train leaves Scranton for Lake A -.ml at 5.10 p.m. and arrives at t?rau ton from the Lake at 8 BJ a ra. and 7.45 pa. Trains leave for Wilkes-Barre at 6.10 a, m. 'jd 8.41 p. m. SPRASTflN HIVISION. la Effect Jane S4tk, 1804. North Bound. Muih Baubd, 8O5203:2Oli n'b J- ml Stations 3 So m 8 S fiCf3i(SbralM Dally, S40480e i! &!s cent hunday.) IP Arrive Leavei as N. Y. Franklin St., 710 West 42nd street 7 00 weehawken P M r Hi lArrlve Leave 8 20. 8 10 7 5 1 151 . 100 . .Ilancock Junction, Ilancock Hi Starlight Preston Park Como Poynwlle Belmont Pleasant MC. Unlondale Forset city Carbondale White Brldsn Way Held Jermyn Archibald Wlnton Peckville Olyphant Dleksoa Throop Providence park Place 7 It 7 45 12 40 A 7 S8 12 25110 10 7 S3 IS INIO'M 2 6 455 8e 606 809, 608 8 19, 6 18 7 12 0.1 9(1: 7 Ill.tlM 9 48 7 ( U 4i 9 8 8 51 11 31 9 IS) (341 6 84 6 4Hl(lli' 9 1 7 87)18 981 f0 4l 6 41 ....11901 11 281 tW 6 8MI1 Wl 85?' 1 6 2U 6 25 Ml 15 8 54 11 111 850 11 07 844 6 21 11 0 .V 8 41 r.14 619 u od t Ml ii no! 8 an 75441(7, 6 14 a eo 414) fO 18 610 (10571 8 88 s new it 10 55 8 80 Scranton Rt4 9bU P u 'a m a' Leave Arrival air All trains run dally except Bundar. L signifies that trains stop on signal lor pas seugers. Keoure rat via Ontario Western before pnrchaHng tickets and save money, Dv ftM Nlhgt Ixpress to the West J. C. Anderson, Gen. pam Agt, T. Flltcroft, Plv. Pass, Agt. scranton, la. WC CAN OlVtt YOU SATISFACTION Sil U I'A V Vvorhyou mill need soon. The Scranton Tribune Job Dept. UP L-fcL-lJrfaft. MlRAitAOADFT 1 mtuii'ja