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. THE SCUAKTOS TlttBtttfE-SATURDAY JtOIttfItf(3V SEPTEMBER 1. 1894.
10 BE PRESENT
Interesting and Timely Suggestions Arising
from the Pittsburg EaoampnuaL
AMONG THE NATION'S DEFENDERS
The Point of Confluence of the Monon
gahela and the Allegheny a Peculiarly
Fitting Place for This Year's Meet
ing of the Veterans of the Grand
Army of the Republic A Glance
Into the Future History, Past,
Present and to Come Searched for
Facts and Fancies AnDrooriate to
the Big Reunion.
time by tp
II Vt Amtrican Preii Jmn
lihei in the Haturdaf M
arranflenwnl The pan lot tho Grand Army of the
ttammr on Sept 11 may
possibly bo losa Imposing in point of
numbers than some which havo taken
place In the past, especially those at
Boston. Washington and Indianapolis,
although Pittsburg lies in tho center of
stretch of territory which furnished
CAPTAIN J. B. ADAMS, COMMANDER IH CHIEF.
more than one-third of the Boldiors of
the war the states of Pennsylvania,
New York and Ohio. But whethor the
eatherina be largo or small tho event
is groat in significance and in the sng
eestions for new ideas or tho rearrange
ment of former ones which it brings
with it The anniversary is hold upon
soil peculiarly sacred to the cause rep'
resented at this gathering. Pennsylva
nia gave more sons according 10 ner
quota as a sacrifice to the god of battles
than any other state in the Union. She
stood on tho border in 1861. She sunt
the first volunteer defenders to the im
periled oapital in the crisis following
Sumter. Her genius ruled in the na
tional camps and councils, and within
her limits, fair set among the charming
hills of the Cumberland, lies tho battle
field of Gettysburg. Cold must be the
heart that will not respond bofitting
the occasion and give tho hour to grati
tude and congratulation.
There remains little to be said of the
sacrifices of tho armies whoso remnants
12. Four huuflred thotfsaufl dead and
a long procession of tho stricken and
maimed is the story the nation knows,
alas, too welL But there is another sido
to tha patriotism of the Union soldier
that might be recalled today, a lees
grewsomo one to dwell upon and a more
noble one because it furnished the in
spiration for those deeds of courage
whose glory brightens as the years roll
on. It would be an easy task to prove
that the Grand Army, itself a body I
unique in the world's experience, is
not due to military clanship uor to tho
protective union principle which is so
active in this era. Tho genius of the
Grand Army lived in tho broasta of the
soldiery in the war days, and the mind
is almost startled to come upon such
witnesses to the fact as this poem of
Miles O'Reilly's, "The Song of the Sol
diers," written in camp in 1802:
Comrades known in marches many,
Comrades tried In dangers many,
Comrades bound by memories many.
Brothers ever let as be.
Wounds or sickness may divide us,
r-Y.l.. 1 ... ....
But whatever (ate betide 06,
Brothers of the heart are w e.
Comrades known by faith the clearest.
Tried when death was near and nearest,
Bound we are by tie the dearest,
Brothers evermore to bo.
And if spared and growing older,
Shoulder still in line with shoulder.
And with hearts no thrill the colder.
urotnere ever we snail be.
communion or the banner.
Imson. white and starrv banner.
imren oi one onorcn are we.
I nor faction can divide us.
whatever fate betide us,
i nothing of sordid selfishness
paste or guild ezclusiveness
breathing through those lines. No more
were there to be found in the hearts of
Stephenson and his colleagues, who in
their bivouao in tho southwest in 1804
dreamed out their magnificent scheme
for perpetuating in peace the spirit of
fraternity, charity and loyalty which
charaoteriied the soldiers in the field.
The veterans' estimates of v thomsolves
are far too modest when they rest satis
fied with eulogies npon their battlefield
prowess and their heroio bearing under
severest hardship, and if proximity to
scenes so rich in war associations shall
unloose the tongues of Commander in
Chief-Adams and his staff of orators at
the enoampmeni they may give to the
careless yet responsive throngs of out
siders new oause to doff their hats to
the Grand Army. They will toll us how
$he soldier set the pace for Union savers
in 1861. and how, by the guiding and
shaping amid the storm and stress of
civil war of these same men, the yeo
manry, who filled, the ranks as volun
teers 80 years ago, this vast nation sprang
into existence from an aggregation of
states whose watchword until then both
north and south had been state suprema
cy. They might give voice to the claim
that the beardless boys, who, as for as
time and Confederate bullets have
spared them, will appear in the march
ing lines at Pittsburg, alone made the
war possible, alone made possible those
viotories and results which the encamp
ment; standing out as the exponent of
t)M military spirit of the nation, cele
brates with due civio and military
eclat The war that is, the war now
hold In memory, that which announces
itself by cannon peal and the "clash of
resounding arms" would not have been
oommenoed nor maintained but for
their Spartan vim, their virile, aggres
sive, unsordid and unfaltering attitude
when statesmen hesitated and civio
leaders trembled; that the war was right
and everlastingly right and must go on
and that they would stand surety for
Ead there been no volunteer army with
its blood up, no martyred Ellsworths
and Bakers and Lyons and Winthrops
appealing from their crimson shrouds
with "llfoblood warm and wet," no
Cushings and Ellcts and Wordens and
Morrises and Farraguts to tread the
decks, and no Hancocks, no Warrens,
no Uptons, no Costers and no Sheri
dans, with their firm battalions stand
ing Bword in hand, the war would have
fizzled out in six months for lack of en
thusiasm. This is history, and because
the veteran when all was accomplished
glided quietly back to his oommonplace
groove as a man and a neighbor, show
ing many uf the weaknesses and foibles
of the common mold, is no reason for
losing sight of the grander part of him.
A slice of Napoleon's high minded phi
losophy would suit the occasion.
"I remember nothing but Austerlitz, "
ho said when people complained to him
truthfully that his old marshal, Soult,
who had mado Napoleon and France by
his wonderful genius and valor on that
field, was becoming ambitious and solf
important. "As ho fought thon think
of him," and there will bo no room for
too familiar trifles to break tho spell of
THE G. A. R. IN THE FUTURE.
Tho veterans passed the half century
point soino years ago. Haw long will
they remain upon the stage in sufficient
numbers to givo spirit to ceremonies
commemorating the qivil war? Twenty
years from now we shall be celebrating
the centennial of the victories at Lun
dy's Lauo, Lake Champlain and Balti
more; also that of Jackson over Paken
ham at New Orleans, and about that
time the semicentennial of tho closing
battles of the civil $var. Is it a daring
assumption to prcsumo that there will
then be living twice as many Union
veterans as tliero were boys in blue on
any of tho battlefields of 1801-5? There
are good grounds for believing that such
will be the caso.
There were about 2,000,000 individ
uals recruited for tho Union armies, of
which number 800,000 (official figures)
died in service, and at least 40,000 died
after discharge during tho war who are
not included in tho government statis
tics. At the close of the war, then, in
1805, thero were living about 1,000,000
veterans averaging about 26 years of
age. At the average rate for men in
health the number would decrease in
30 years about 480,000, leaving 1,120,-
000 survivors in 1894. About four years
ago the pension and Grand Army roles
and the rosters of veteran associations
showed 1,330,000 survivors, but part of
tho figures were not trustworthy, and
a revision of them, together with the
deaths of the past five years, has
brought tho number down to 1,000,000.
In other words, thero have been 600,000
deaths in 80 years, an increase of tho
usual mortuary rate. But if there are
only a million loft, these being of ad
vanced, ago ond the mortuary rate has
been excessive thus far, does that argue
against marshaling an army of them 20
years hence? Their average ages now
are about 50. The death report of the
departments of Michigan and New York
for 1893 and of tho national encamp
nient for the wholo United States for
1893 shows that the mortuary rate, is
less than tho average recognized by in
The Michigan report for 20, 000 vetor
ans, averaging 55 years, showed a mor
tality of 15 to 1,000, that of New York
a rate of 20 in 1,000 among 41,000, and
the national report for 400,000 men.'in-
eluding inmates of soldiers' homes, pre
sumably tho least healthy of the surviv
ors, a rate of 17 to 1,000. Tho average
age of the veterans in 1894 is usually
fixed at 55 by experts, and the rate of
mortality for averago men at that ago is
about 22 in 1,000. That the loss since
the war has been excessive no one will
dispute, but that naturally would occur
in tho decatlo following the soldiers
discharge. Mou wcro discharged for
wounds and diseases by the hundreds of
thousands, and no doubt death claimed
them within a fow years at a rate three
or four times greater than the average
"BOUSD ARE WE BY TIES."
tor civilians. Over 200,000 men died
from diseases in tho army, and it must
be supposed that the seeds of death were
brought out of the army by tens of
thousands of those discharged out of
hospitals or prison parole camps.
As has buen stated, the death rate is
now much under the averago for civil
lans, and the veteran at 55 or CO, or even
ot 67 which is probably tho proper age
to consider all things being equal, has
one chance in three of reaching 76 and
of taking part in the double celebration
of 1915, and each of the 200,000 or 800,
000 alive at that date will nave one
chance in flvo of reaching tho age of 86
as one of the 40.000 or 60,000 survivors.
At tho present time there is about one
veteran in every 0 inhabitants, old
aud young, or in every 12 adult men,
and at that date, if the population in
creases normally, there will be one to
every 1,700 people or every 850 adult
men that is to say that in the average
gathering of 850 men at a patriotio
meeting or on election there will be one
tottering veteran of 86 years. Not much
chance for G. A. E. gatherings then,
surely, except in the great cities. The
record of longevity among tho veterans
of the war of 1813 and of the Mexican
war instalnB these calculations, and this
thought has been carried still further by
a writer in the Washington Post, who
sees the dramatio and interesting climax
a generation beyond that I have-Jhinted
at, or at the middle of the next century,
witn the centennial days of the Mexi
can war, the discovery of gold and the
conquest oi California. Heiayt:
U i 1,
Herein re we admonished by nnseen lips
and Innumerable voices that the day will some
time dawn when of all the Grand Army of the
Republic, now year by year closing in thinner
ranks around the craves of their departed com
rades, thero shall be bnt one survivor to staud
lonewatoU at the portals of tho "eternal camp-
It is an impressive If not bewildering thought
It carries ns to a period when the millions of
today shall be doubled, and when among the
teeming host bmded with their own ambi
tions, confronted with new responsibilities,
radiant In the light of new revelations, stran
gers, except through history, to tho mighty
events out or which so glorious a destiny was
wrought, this solitary soldier shall be tho sole
reminder and Incarnation, as It were, of the
heroio age of the Union.
Tho war of the American Revolution closed
In 1783. At that time a soldier belonging to
the regiment of New York militia commanded
by Colonel Marlnns Willett, who had been
four years In the army, was a young man of
E3. Eighty-six yean later, April 6, 1809, having
reaohed the great age of 109, he was gathered
to his heroio fathers at the town of Freedom
(not inaptly named), Cattaraugus county, X. Y.
His name was Daniel F. Bakeman, and he was
the last of the Revolutionary pensioners under
special act of congress.
The last of the Revolutionary pensioners on
the regular roll was Samuel Downing of Sara
toga county, N. Y., who enlisted as a private In
1780, when only li, and died In 1867 at 101.
Only SO. years ago there walked among ns
one who bore a musket at tho surrender of
Cornwallls, yet lived to hear the tidings of the
suriender at Appomattox!
These Incidents furnish no data, of course.
on which to base exact foreknowledge of the
time when there shall remain In the land of
the living only a single soldier of the great ar
mies that wcro disbanded in 1S65, but it is not
unreasonable to suppose that, evon If none of
tho veterans of the war Is spared to the extraor
dinary age of Danlol Bakeman, it will lie re
served to some of them to turn the century
point. If there Is a soldier who, like Bninucl
Downing, was but 17 when discharged from the
servieo, and HveB to Downing's age, he will dlo
lnllHO. If 23 at the time ox his discharge, and
ho lives to the fivescore and nine of Daniel
Bakeman, he will die in 1951. The chnnccB are
that the man who is destined to bear the proud
but melancholy distinction of being the last
survivor will not be living later than 1950.
And what a retrospect will be bis as, stand
ing upon this remote and isolated acclivity,
he peoples the hazy distances of the past with
THE LAST BCRVIYOU.
armies and banners; with the great captains
long since called to their reward; with the
charge and countercharge of legions melting
in the smoke of tho conliict; with tie sheeted
dead that haunt vast battlefields; With the
final blending into skies of blue the vanishing
clouds of gray, the aftermath of glory, the
grand review, the grateful Incense of peace
and the line of march toward Immortality, of
which uncounted headstones are then the
only traces, savo his worn and weary self,
waiting for the signal of welcome from tbe
shining ramparts Just above lilinl
Sixty years from today It may be, in some
great cemetery of the nation's dead, or haply
within some quiet churchyard, will be reared
a mound of flowers over the grave of the last
survivor, for, though he be a stranger among
strangers, a waif upon the shore left by the re
coding tide, with not a comrade to bear him
company, he will not be unbefriended. There
will be sons of veterans, grandsons of veterans.
daughters and granddaughters of veterans to
guard his declining footsteps, to smooth his
dying moments, subllmer far than those of
Napoleon at St. Helena, to wrlto his wondrous
epitaph and over his ashes build a luting mon
Many and momentous may ho the changes
that our country in tho evolution of Its prog,
ress shall meanwhile witness. The flag that
floats atiove us this morning in all its constel
lated spleudor may gleam with other stars,
transplanted to its azuro Hold from both the
northern and southern firmaments. New con
ditions may be developed to challenge the pro.
foundest philosophy and bravest statesman
ship of the age In their adjustment to an ad
vancing civilization. Dangers that we wot not
of may arlso in the solution of social and ceo
noniic problems to further tax tho stability of
our institutions. Hut in God good provi.
denco the covenant of union, sealed wl til the
blood of opulent self sacrifice, the fragrance of
which aecends today from a hundred thousand
altars, shall remain unbroken and Immutable,
like the bow of promise in Its beauty, but like
the overarching heavens themselves in Its
bending majesty and perennial duration.
The citizens of Pittsburg are to make
an unusually lavish display of Old Glory
during encampment week.
Louisville and Atlanta are striving
after the encampment in 1895, in order,
as they say, to "bridge tho bloody
The Sons of Veterans and tho nation
al guardsmen, in full uniform, will act
as guides to the visiting comrades in
thoir travels about the city.
No tents at Pittsburg, says Command'
er iu Chief Adams. Tho veterans aver
ago 65 years of ago, and the older boys
aro juf t". tho ones who do not wish to
miss an encampment nor come away
with aches and pains. So the quarters
will bo in substantial barracks or in
hotols, halls and private houses.
G. K LKtraox.
A hasty and Inconsiderate breeze played
a mean trick a day or two ago on the little
old woman who grinds a hand orgun on
Fourteenth street near Sixth avenue.
black tin placard hung on the front of the
wheezy instrument, telling in white letters
to passers by, "I am paralysed." Sudden
ly a vigorous gust of wind swept around
the corner, and catching the placard on the
tinder side swung it well out of its perpen
dicular and turned It completely over.
When the wind, the dust and tho flying
particles of paper subsided there sat tbe
little old woman mechanically grinding
out "Annie Rooncy" behind the pathetic
lncription on the sheet of black tint "Kind
friends, I have been blind since childhood."
New York Times.
Thero are treasures locked and sealed,
Never to the eye revealed;
There are songs whose hlddon flow
Mortal ear can never know.
There are flowers whose perfect hue
Seems to shrink from common view,
And a ruthless human touch
Is a death blow unto such.
There are lives that stand alone,
To the outer world unknown:
Only here and there they And
Kindred spirits in mankind.
Scattered through the crowded street,
One or two wo somotlmes meet;
What on earth can be so rare
As the love each faces wear? -
What In heaven can excol
The serene and magic spell
Found In such responsive love,
: Leading us to God above?
Annie Russell tu Now York Ledger,
11 (ULiLliliVUlili 11 (OLiiiiU ooo
Jndlo Chollet on the Occult Law of Trifles
Ono of the worst bronchos of etiquette)
of which you can bo guilty Is to attempt
to teach )'onr acquaintances etiquette. If
you invito 0 friend to luncheon at a res
taurant, for instance, or aocopt her invita
tion, you thereby confess that a degree
of social equality exists between you and
her, and if she cots licr oysters with an or
dinary fork iDBtcuu of with the trldcut that
has been specially provided for that pur-
peso it is not wllbia your provlnco to cor
rect her, unless she Han previously recog
nized you ns a guardian of hor manners.
If slio ohooses to convey ice cream to her
mouth by moans of a spoon instead of a
fork, lot her do it unmolested, tho matter
Is not of tho slightest consequence, and to
be in constant fear of transgressing soino
occult luw of ctlquetto one's self or of as
sociating with persons who do so Is to
prove ono's self not to tho manner born
and by naturo a snob. F.ven if your coun
try guest cats with her knife in public you
will prove) yourself a provincial by paying
any attention to it. It happens to bo her
custom, to which she 1ms boon reared, and
if you navo a cosmopolitan mind it will
bo too insignificant a thing to worry you.
However technically perfect your own
manners may be, they will exhibit a glar
ing deficiency if you correct thoso of other
grown persons. Besides you ore not suro
of infallibility, and It is not lmpossiblo
that you may occasionally rebuke a per
son who knows even moro on the subject
than you do and is behaving quite proper
ly in tho eyes of tho cultivated world.
When sho cats hor cliceso with her knife,
sho is merely following tho Knglish habit,
and it Is quite permissible to tuko olives,
corn, undressed lettuce and lump sugar in
tho fingers. Again, many of the actions
that you consider faulty may bo duo to
the absonco of mind engendered by lively
conversation, while others are accidents
to which anybody is liable.
Most persons whom one meets socially
have a sufficient knowledge of etiquette to
be at easo among tho people with whom
they associate, and that is all that Is neces
sary. A really well bred person nover
rests hor faith on such minute trillos as
the angle at which tho knife is loft or tho
number of crumbs to bo permitted to fall
from tho pieco of bread. Consideration
for others Is the foundation of all good
maimers, and the man or woman who
lacks that has nicro affectation in the
placo of tact and trua politeness.
Tho sketch shows a gown of roso and
gold changeable silk. The skirt drapery
is of whlto nioussclino do sole, the bodico
of white guipure, the sleeves and girdle of
old yellow satin and the two bows of
cherry velvet ribbon. " """"
NEATNESS IN DRES3.
Baste Is tho Mother of Many Sins Ct Omis
sion and Commission. '
These uro the days when neatness in
dress goes under tho namo of smartness,
says a common senso fashion writer, and
the smartly gowned woman owes hex suc
cess to the fact that sho makes everything
secure and tidy before she leaves her room,
invariably making a ilnul careful scrutiny
of her attire as sho stands, fully dressed,
before her mirror. Sho who boasts that It
never takes hor a minute to dicss may be
fully assured hat there will bu abundant
shortcomings in hor raiment to bear wit
ness to tho truth of her statement. Tho
bonnet and dress covered with dust col
lected during yesterday's walk; tho veil
badly adjusted; hooks that scan to havo a
mortal antipathy for thoir corresponding
eyes; luckless hairpins hanging, like tho
swordof Dumoeles, by asinglohair. These
aro some of tho sins of omission or com
mission that tell us she (devotes Insuffi
cient timo to hor toilet. Jiellevo mo, you
may possess tho most c.tpiuislvo of gowns,
bonnets, boots and gloves,) yet if they aro
Improperly enrrd for and (carelessly worn
your neat Uttlo neighbor, with her ''made
ovor" dress and hor 1iht yevr's bonnet, will
put you to shame in the nutter of porsonal
appearance. Thero is a gentility about her
which brino.e her tho mostiiloasing atten
tions, and men and womuil alike pay her
homage becuuso sho is so rW and trim.
.She is a firm believer in thai Inst look in
the mirror. If tho mirror Is full length
ono, so much tho better, for tklngs soiuo
times go wron g w 1th tho lower rt of a cos
tume, of which the wonror, locking down
upon herself, is quite Ignorant f but which
nro perfectly evident to evorybcBy else.
A Bkotch'ls given of a gown i old blue
bntlsto trimmed with white gulijuro. The
sash Is of whlto satin.
Dir. I rnllck's lUuorloncft,
la his seafaring life the late Flnry Fra
lick, of Grand Rapids, hod matV advent
ures, among them that of beingyjwed by
a sperm wbalo eighty miles in a lircle be
fore the monster was brought to W, He
visited St. Helena and brought liome a
twig from a willow troo that gnv over
Nupoloon's grave, Ha planted it w New
York state aud saw it grow to A larto tree,
When clerk at the Exchange hotel In De
troit, in ltwO, the great land ucseUattoa
fever was on, and the entire territory was
tilled with land lookers.
The land office in Detroit was so crowded
with npplicints that it became necessary
to tlo.tj tho oilice for three weeks at a tiuiu
to let the clerks catch up. lit) made con
siderable money by buying numbers from
speculators, who became weary of waiting,
aud selling them to late comers, lie often
realized $100 on a deal of this kind, and laid
the foundation for his future business op
erations. Detroit News.
SOMETHING ABOUT SILKS.
The Best China and India Bilks Come From
All tho best china and India silks, so
called, come from Lyons. In fact, there
is no sort of silk tissue not made there
and better mado thero than anywliuro else.
Damask, forerunner of brocade, camo
from Damascus. Indeed thero is a flavor
and fragrance of tho east through all tho
bead roll of silken stuffs.
Designing silks Is something that era
ploys und pays well for much of tho best
artistic talent .n France. A pattern that
takes moans fortune to tho mill that
ainkes it. Each houso has its own pat torn
makers and guards jealously tho fruit of
A pattern cannot be protected by lotters
patent. A largo buyer may, though, se
curo from tho maker cxcltislvo control of
tho sorts ho buys. It behooves him to buy
carefully, prayerfully. Tho verdict of a
potty jury is not moro uncertain thnn that
of tho silk wearing public. Shrewd ad
vertising, good display, may do something
toward influencing it, but the pattern thut
toward tho closo of the season Is volumi
nously In stock is ot ouce bowed down In
price und cast upon tho bargain counter.
Kach year thero fire new surfaces in vari
ety, but all of them resolve themselves
into tho original elementary combinations
posslblo to the handlooru. Molro lins its
Benson when it is unseasonable, stripes
como and go, but silk goes on forever.
Tho uso of it increases yearly, and It I
safe to sny that tho consumption will doU'
bio in tho next 20 yours.
Yet tho market for raw silk Is merely
"steady." China, Japan und India are
such Inexhaustible storehouses of It thai
thoy can send us twice our needs without
materially affecting the price.
Thero have boon sporadic efforts to raise
silk in the United States, but. so fur we
CnAKOEABLE TAFFETA GOWX.
have produced so small an amount In com
parlson that It is not worth mentioning.
Tho skotch bIiows a gown of rose and
green changoablo taffeta, trimmed With
whlto lace, green mousseline do solo and
arrow Jet passcmotenc.
BITS OF GLOVE HISTORY.
They Were First Worn With a Thumb and
A writer Interested in the history of the
wardrobo tells us that gloves wero not
known in England until near tho closo of
tho tenth century and wero then worn
with a thumb and no finger, liko mittens.
They wero larger in every way than they
needed to bo, and wonderously embroider-
cd and starred with jewels. JNo, gloves
wero finer than thoso of the clergy. They
wero mostly of whlto silk or linen, cun
ningly broidercd and somotlmes fringed
With pearls, One ecclesiastic had a red silk
pair, with tho sacred monogram worked
on tho back, surrounded with a golden
glory, and later on they had gloves to
match their different vestments. In fact,
gloves had departed from the primary idea
of utility and becomo a decoration. Thoy
wero too magnificent for common weur
and were frequently carried in the hand or
worn In tho girdle. It was by tho fine
gloves his page hud in his girdlo thut Cceur
de Lion was betrayed on his way home
from tho crusade, and so fe.l into captiv
ity. But already tho glove was moro thnn
a mero bit ot foppery. Tho knight's mailed
glove sheltered his hand. It became a sign
of power, and when a gracious lord meant
to Blgnlfy his Intention to protect a town
he sent his glovo as a sure sign of his will
ingness. Tho glove, too, was the token of
defiance when one knight declared war
against another, und to show his fealty to
his mistress ho bound her broUlorcd glovo
to his helmet. Long gloves camo in at tho
end of tho seventeenth century. Noll
Gwy line's gloves wero a proverb for their
beauty. All through this timo gloves wero
prettily sot olf with lace, ribbons und
fringe, although tho fashion of tho finer
nrtlstlo embroidery of tho middle ages was
falling into disuse. Tho bare hand wns
deemed un offense, and tho costliness of
BHD ASD PINK COSTUMK.
gloves" defined thoir wearer's social" "posf
Tho illustration shows a gown of rose
batiste trimmed with vivid red satin and
White lace, This thoroughly Fronoh cos
tume is oomplrted by a green straw hat
trimmed, with rod roses and wiito qullla.
FRILLS AND FURBELOWS.
Even niatem and Eton Jackets Aro Orna
mented With Thcui This Hcason.
Not only is millinery moro profusely
decorutcd than it was last year, but every
thing else is correspondingly more ornate.
Frills and furbelows of ull kinds adorn
gowns and wraps, and even blazers und
Eton, jackets have been ornamented out of
their pristine character. This is a very be
coming freak of fashion to the slender
American typo of woman, and sho had
better make the most of it.
Every indication of height in the matter
of sleeves hns disappeared, but they aro
permitted to extend horizontally as far as
BLUE BEROE COSTUME.
ono desires. This horizontal effect is ad
ditionally carried out by means of wide
eollurs and revers. Sleeves uro invariably
largo above tho elbow, whether plain or
trimmed, bkirtsaro less llnrlng than they
wero during the winter, and many among
the l-rench models aro plain, although
trimmed ones enjoy greater favor here.
The long coat is not so much seen as it
was. It contains too much cloth for warm
weather wear and Is not in general use, al
though it Is occasionally seen made up In
thin goods. Eton jackets aro of course
short. Tho new blazers uro ulso short, and
few coats lmrea basque more than 20 inches
long. If a fashion, such us tho long coat,
or instance, happens to bo especially be-
oming to some particular woman, if she
is sensible sho will continue to wear It un
til it becomes obsolete or so nearly so us to
appear absurd. Tho fashion was mado for
wouiun, not woman for the fashion; there
fore let her exorclso her privileges and
cleave unto the styles that are her own by
right of litncss.
White enters largely into costumes of
tho present season. A sketch is given of a
gown of grenadier bluo serge, with a rather
full skirt and an exceptionally long coat
girdled at tho waist by a white silk sash
tied at tho left side of tho front. Tho coat
has flaring cuffs of white silk, and rovers
and flaring collar lined with tho same
material. Tho revers part to display a
Whlto silk vest huving a wrinkled collar
and a full jabot of luce. A hat of bluck
luco straw accompanies tho gown. It is
lined with blue velvet and trimmed with
bluck ostrich plumes.
THE FLORID GIRL'S BETE NOIR.
Should Shun Black If She Desires to
Tone Down Tier Complexion.
A gown of thin black goods is an ex
tremely useful unit of tho summer ward
robo. Its wear in city streets is to bo dep
recated if tho material be of a lacy tcx-
turn, but for house, carriage or out of town
uso It Is eminently satisfactory.
A beautiful quality of largo meshed silk
net Is shown for summer dresses. It Is
rather expensive, as it is only a yard wldo
Instead of tho usual 45 inches, but it will
wear practically forever, being of a Ann
texturo. It is to be found both pluin and
sprinkled with small dots. For outdoor
BLACK NET COWJf.
purposed this should bo lined throughout
with black silk, and worn with a colored
hot and parasol tho effect will bo charm
ing, but for tho house tho sleeves and up
per part of tho corsafni rcqnlrc no lining,
fconio women havo a bluck laco bodice
mndo entirely unlined and wear it ovor
different silk bodices of varying colors, 'Wa
a lace corsniro looks far better -held. In
shnpo by a fitted lining.
A novelty in Bilk and wool greradlno is
displayed having a moiro stripe alternat
ing with a wool ono broended with small
silk Dowers. This material is not trans
parent, but iaof light quality, and although
thin Is rhh looking, so much so as to fN
Gultablo only for middle aged and elderly
women. Pluin bluck silk muslin Is also
seen and Is a very pretty sort oi stuff, thin
and cool. Thcso black gowns aro in good
tnsto and generally becoming, but there Is
at least ono type of woman who should
shun bluck with n dull ilulsl), aud that is
tho florid type. Instead of txyntng down
hor color, It Increases It tenfbht by contrast
and is as detrimental to tho nppearanoo
ot her complexion us turquolso blue, which
Is putting it strongly. A woman who Is
inclined to ovcrtlushlng should never ven
ture to woar dull bluck unless she niodJlle.
it by a liberal uso of cherry or scarlet,
which are strong enough tints to make her
skin look white.
A sketch is given ot a gown of dotted
net, the skirt of which Is cuught up with
bands of Jot. Tho corselet and collar ara
of satin trimmed With jot, The olbow
sleeves aro divided into, two puffs bya
band of jet, and jet brorwits trim the front
of the bodice, Jfrno Chollet.
To, cure canker get white pine bark
fresh, from tho treo, if possible, and steep a
strong tea from it. In another dish steep
a atrong tea from common sage leave.
Strain and pat equal quantities together
while hot, adding enough pnro bee' honey
to make it very sweet. Use it either warm
or cold, rinsing the month and gargling
the throat with it several times a day. If
some should chance to bo swallowed then
need be no cause for alarm, j ,
CENTRAL RAILROAD OF K J.
LEHIGH AND SUSQUEHANNA DIVISION
Anthracite coal used exclusively, insuring
cleanliness and comfort.
TIME TABLE IN (PPEOT MAT 20, 188L
Trains Wvi Hrr&ntnn far PftfrfnM toi,w.
Bnrre. etc.. at 8 20. W.I.V 11.. m i sn iin
8.:, S OU, t.i 11.0S p. m. Sundays, 8.U) a. in!
i.w, .io, 7.1UD. m.
or Aiiantio uny, s.20 a. m.
Fur Now York. Newark nit Vllntuttfc a m
(express) a. m.. 12.50 roinrnss with n'frk
parlor car), 3.30 (express) p. m. Sunday, tli
Fob Maitcr Chcnk, Aixentows, Bethl.
U60. S.30, 6.00 (exoeDt Phll.rt.lnhi.-i ....
Bundny, 2.16 p. m.
For Lono BiuMm Ofiviitf riDnv, ...
&2 (th ,tnroKl' car) a. m.. 12.W p. m.
For Heading, Lebanon and Harrisbure, via
f ie2. twn" " la60, m' p-n1, Buday
For Pottsville, 8.20 a. m., 12.10 p. m.
Keturntne. Inn K Vnrk ,,.., t ivt
fWi.A0! mer- rt &1 ("press) a. m..
1.10, LdO, 4.91 (express with Buffet parlor carj
p. m. (Sunday, 4.80 a. m.
Leve f'aUadelphla, Reading Terminal, IM -
" auu -.w u. III. OUUUaV. , Z TT.
rough tickets to all points at lowest ratel
be had on application In advance to the
it agout at the station.
H. P. BALDWIN.
DELAWARE AND HUD
Commencing Mnndiv .Tnlv
30, all trains will arrive and
depart from the now Lack
awanna avenue station at
l" Trains will lesve Scran
ton station for Carbondala
and Intermediate points at
2.20. S.4.ri. 7 00. 8 2.1 .nil In ill
.ra., 12.00, 2.20, 8.65, s.U, tui, 1M, t.10 and
For Pnrviow. Wavmart and TTnnMrinla nk
7.00. 8.25 and 10.10 a.m., 12.00,8.10 and 6.15 o.m.
Fcr Albany, Saratoga, the Adirondack and
Vo:itr,ial at 6.Vi a m. and 2,20 p. in.
ror wines-iiarre ana intermediate points
at 7.46, 8.45. 8.3S aud 10.45 a.m, 1100, 1,2ft 2.38.
4.(0. 6.10, 8.P5, 1i.lt, and 11.88 p.m.
Trains will arrive at Scranton Button from
Carbondala and rfitprmAillntA mixta at ? in
.9i?4.n.1.1,0-40 a ra- UJ
4.54, 5.5ft. 7.45, 9 11 and 11.83 p.m.
From Hune9d ale. Wavmart and Farvlnw
0.34 a.m.., 1100, L17, 3.40. 565 and 7.45 p.m.
rrom Montreal, baratoga. Albany, etc., at
4.54 ana 11. W p.m.
From vilkee-Barre and Intermediate point
at 2.15, 8.01, UK and 11 65 a.m., 1 W. 1L 8.SK.
6.10, B.0S, Va, K.03 and 11 18 p.m. '
MAY IU, 14.
Train leaves Bcranton for Philadelphia and
Now York via. D. & H. R R. at 7.46 a.m.. 120.il
8.0H, 11.20 a. in., and 1.30 p. m.
Leave Bcranton for Plttston and Wilkes
Barre via D.. L. AW. R. H, 6.00, &08, 11.29
a. m., 1.80, &50. 0.07. S.iOp. m.
Leave Scranton for Whito Haven, Hazleton,
Pottsville and all points on the Beaver
llendow and Pottsville branches, via E. & W.
y.Bitim-Tlft,D-T? H B- ' a.m., 12.06.
8.88. 4.IO p.m. via D., U W. R. R, 6.00, 8.04,
11.20 a.m., 1.30, a 50 p.m.
Leave Bcranton tor Bethlehem, Easton.
Reading, Harrisburg and all intennedhit
points via D.& &K.Bl7. a.m.,12.05, t.88, 1L84
run., via D., L. & W, B, R..6.00,S.0d. 1L20 a. m,
Leave Scranton for Tunkhannock, Towanda,
Elmlra, Ithaca, Ooneva and all Intermediate
points via D. & H. K.R.,8.to a.m.,12.03 and 11.34
P-Tm-.via , D. L. A W". R. R., 8.05 a.m.,l.30p. m.
Leavj Scranton for Rochester. Buffalo, Ni
agara Falls, Untroit, Chicago and all point:
West rial). & H. R. R . a.m..l2.05,.15.11.l
p. m.. via D. L. & W. R. R. and Pittstoa
Junction. aOS a.m MO, 8.50 p. m.. via E. & W.
it.rC., 3.41 p. xn.
For Eunira and the west via Salamanet, via
D. & H. R. R. S.4.. a.m., 1405,6.05 p. m.. via D
L. & W. K. K., ,8.08 a.m., 1.30 and W p. m.
Pullman parlor and sleeping or L. V. chair
curs on all trains between L. & B. Junction or
Wllkos-Uarre and New York, Philadelphia,
Buffalo and Suspension Bridtre.
ROLLIN H. WILBUR, Qen. Supt.
. OH AS. 8, LEE. (Hn. pass. Ag't, Phlla.,P.
A.W.NONNEMACHER.Ass't Oen.Pass. Ag't,
South Bethlehem, Pa.
DELAWARE, LACKAWANNA AND
Trains leave Scranton as follows: Express
for New York and ah points East. 1.40, 2.H
6.1N 8.00 aod 9.6s a. m.;lZ 66 and 3.50 p, m.
Express for Kaston, Trenton. Philadelphia
and the South, 5.14 8.00 and .6i a, m.; U.4
and 8.50 p. m.
Washington and war ntatlons, 8.55 p. m.
Tobyhanna aoroinmodatlon, 6.10 p. m.
Expr sa for Binghamtou, Oswogo, Elmlra,
Corning, Bath. DansvUle, Monnt Morris anil
Buffalo, 12.10, 116 a. m. ad 124 p. m,, makinif
close connections at Buffalo to all points in the
West, N orthwest and Soathweau
Bath accommodation, 9 a m.
Blnghamton and way stations, 12.87 p. m,
N lcnolaou accommodation, at 1 p. m. ant)
6.10 p. m.
Blnghamton and Elmlra Express, 60S p. so.
Express for Cortland, Syracuse, Oawsirx
Ctioa and Richfield Springs, 2J4 a. m. and L2
Ithaca. 2.16 and Bath 9 a. m. and lrtn. ra.
For Northumberland, rHttaton, Wllkes-Barrsv
Plymouth, Bloomaburg and Danville, making
close connections at Northumberland fof
WllUamsport, Harris burg, Baltimore, Washt
lngton and tbe South.
lorthumborland and Intermediate stations.
6.00, W W a. m. and 1JH and 8.07 p. m.
Nautiroae ana intermediate stations, 8.01
and 11.20 a. m. Plymouth aud luWrmedUta
stations, 8.50 and 8.G J p. ra.
Pullman parlor and sleeping coaches on all
express trains, . . ,
For delallod Information, pooketttmstablsa,
etc, apply to M. L. Smith, city tloket offloe,
iLW Laukawannaavenue, or depot Uuketolnoe,
WYOMING VALLEY BAIL
Trains leave Scranton for New York and In
termediate points on tb'd Erie railroad at 6.HS
a. m. aud 8.24 p. m. Also for Honesdale,
Hawley and local joints at 6.85, 9.45 a. m., anl
Ail the a bore ara through trains to and
An adjKi.io.nal train leaves Scranton for
Lake A -.ml at 5.10 p.m. and arrives at t?rau
ton from the Lake at 8 BJ a ra. and 7.45 pa.
Trains leave for Wilkes-Barre at 6.10 a, m.
'jd 8.41 p. m.
la Effect Jane S4tk, 1804.
n'b J- ml Stations
3 So m 8 S
N. Y. Franklin St.,
West 42nd street
1 151 .
12 40 A
7 S8 12 25110 10
7 S3 IS INIO'M
2 6 455
8 19, 6 18
7 12 0.1 9(1:
7 Ill.tlM 9 48
U 4i 9 8
11 31 9 IS)
(341 6 84
6 4Hl(lli' 9 1
7 87)18 981
11 281 tW
6 8MI1 Wl 85?'
Ml 15 8 54
11 111 850
11 07 844
11 0 .V 8 41
u od t Ml
ii no! 8 an
(10571 8 88
s new it
10 55 8 80
'a m a'
All trains run dally except Bundar.
L signifies that trains stop on signal lor pas
Keoure rat via Ontario Western before
pnrchaHng tickets and save money, Dv ftM
Nlhgt Ixpress to the West
J. C. Anderson, Gen. pam Agt,
T. Flltcroft, Plv. Pass, Agt. scranton, la.
WC CAN OlVtt YOU
Sil U I'A
V Vvorhyou mill need soon.
The Scranton Tribune Job Dept.