Pittsburg dispatch. (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, December 25, 1892, Page 13, Image 13

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pflf'Raw
tZSS-, -Ju'VStl ' Jr inS to the waist line, or
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3IID-WIXTER FASHIONS.
tCOKBrRrOTDENCE OF THE DISPATCH.!
ew Yokk, Dec 24. Surely we wouldn't
think of iashions on such a day as this.
"Why, it's Christinas, the day we forget our
selves aud think of others! We haven't any
time to botner with styles and petty differ
ences of fashion and trifling advance on the
ncde of a month aj;o.
Xo? Well, then, let me tell you of what
& thoughtful parent has purchased for his
pretty daughter. That will interest you, I
know. It is one of the daintiest bodices
you ever saw, and she is going to wear it
to-night at the family gathering just to
please him, you know. It is a Josephine
bodice, made of pcau de soie, in a deep,
rich red draped softly across the front, with
rose-colored rnousseline de soie, caught up
by a big cameo. Then there is a very high
belt of the same cameos, and one catching
up each short sleeve puff of the mousseline.
Berhair is so very dark and her skin so
purely olive that she is delighted with the
thought of the result.
2sor, hare I succeeded in getting you in
terested, and cannot I persuade you to
listen for a little space while I dicconrse
upon -several more bodices almost as pretty
as the one this favorite daughter will wear?
Dreams In the Itodlce Lino.
Hearken, then, to this description of one,
in mauve velvet, close-fitting and with a
bolero formed above by gold and mauve
embroidery, from which ialls a deep flounce
of lace, long in the front, gradually short
ening over the hips and at the back until it
is caught up with a chou of ribbon and long
sti earners. In the front, also, there are
choui where the lace and embroidery join.
The short sleeves are full lace flounces fall
ing beneath embroidered epaulets.
Another one with loosely tailing lace
effect is of serpent-greea silk, shot with
rose. The low cut corsage is bordered with
pink feather trimming shading off into
green, and from this the lace flouncing falls
This time it is at the back that the lace
han;s lone into a deep slender point. But
terflies of lace are poised on the shoulders.
Two more are there one ot pink benga
line, the other ot yellow brocade. The beo
gr.line has a dull pink feather trimming
and steel passementerie bands for adorn
ment; the Yellow brocade has a flonnce of
white chiffon across the pointed boidce,
and a hish crush belt of the brocade.
But there's another subject we may dis
cuss even on Christmas day, and that is iur.
It's a warm, comfortable subject, and seems
EXQUISITE EYESTSG BODICES.
to suit the glowing fire and family gather
ing, particularly that most comfortable and
popular form ot it seal. Seal still reigns
queen of all lurs; no other has conquered it,
although its oertlirov has often been
prophesied and threatened.
The New Stylo in Furs.
But though it is still supreme it has as
sumed a new guise. We see it no longer in
seventy o form, in straight, plain garment
almost devoid ot shape. It has dropped
the old conservatism and taken unto itself
many new notions. We see it now nlaited
Dud gathered m nianv fanciful ways, in long
Watteau folds, m gathered capes, in short
plaited collar, and the effect is not so un
gracelul ns one might suppose, for the fur
easily adapts itself to the change and ap
pears none the worse for it, either.
It looks prettiest, perhaps, in the long
military cape, tailing free Iroin the collar,
edged with other fur, generally Russian
sable; or, perhaps, with a close row of Rus
sian sable tails laid around on the sial, not
burning below it.
In the short fur garments thelittle "ipes
and the Eton and Bolero jackets however,
other fur is just as popular. One always
finds the mink, and there are also the gray
krimmer, the Persian lamb or the moire
Persian. Oi course, the military cape is
tl.e latest, and olten forms the only outer
garment, even on cold days. But it is very
deceptive, and while it looks warm and
protecting, uangin; Jar below the hips, the
wind has a quiet way of working up under
it and sending little chills through the per
son who was rash enough to come out so
clad.
Much more sensible are the small sleeve
1c fur iskets over'the cloth coats. These
are Eton, generally, of round cut, reach- J
Bolero,
I"nr to Ke Used as Trlmrnlnjrs.
But possibly we're disposed to be more
economical and deny ourselves one of the
beautiful fur carment', which cost any
where from $100 to 81,000, or even more,
for one can easily pay $1,500 for a coat
in that most expensive lur, Russian sable.
And if we are disposed to practice economy
we shall content ourselves with lur in
trimminjr only, either on dress, clunk or
hat. For dresses the narrower it is the
better, when it appears in bands. For
girdles it may be broader, and for sleeves it
is allowed still more freedom. A cloth
dress looks very handsome with such an ad
dition of fur, and possibly a sleeveless
jacket as well.
Then there are the fur collars, running
down into a lone point in front, even as far
as the belt; or the high rolling collar.",
with short plaited flounces added, or the
.head and tail boas. These last appear very
modest, aud yet I saw one the other day of
Russian sable marked 525.
Mufls are a little larcer this year, and the
round ones are still popular. One sees
plenty of the flat, lancy ones in velvet and
fur, but there is no present danger of their
taking the round mull's place. The most
convenient muff is the one that has a tiny
spring concealed at the top, which flies
open u hen pressed and revealsadeep, satin
lined pocket, so haudy to hold handker
chief, purse, card case, and a dozen other
things women mutt carry with them,
pocket or no pocket
Another Way to TJso Fur.
But the fur has another vocation. It is
sometimes content to bide itself beneath
beautiful brocade, or pale colored cloth
evening cloaks. The white Mongolian is
often found here, and only peens out a little
way at the edge. That's the way I saw it
in a beautiful military cape, worn by a
most magnificent woman, tall and queenly,
with wonderful black hair. The cape was
of black velvet, full three-quarter length,
and lined and bordered down the front with
pure white ermine. The lower edge was
bordered with wide white passementerie.
It looked more startling, possibly, because
it fell over a white satin'gown that had a
black velvet bodice. The bodice was close
fittine and low cut, and narrowed oil at the
sides into straight bands that fell over the
skirt almost to the feet. The white lringe
that edged them brought the trimming
down to the bottom ot the dress, the fringe
lallin; over white chiffon cascades that
were ldcped on the skirt beneath.
The regal woman talked to another, but
the second was more simply gowned. Her
toilet cost no less I feel sure: it ofilv at-
peared simpler, less ostentatious, because it I
was pure i-mpire, in pale gold, with gold
embroideries; and over a lovely lace drapery
in white, embroidered in innnmerable gale
colors, hunt; loosely, back and Iront, draped
just enough to make it fall softly. The cirl
looked beautitul; she, too, v. a" dark, and
the veil floated away lrom the cold beneath
whenever a tiny breeze came in from the
open window where the two stood.
Eva A. Schtjbebt.
GOSSIP FOR THE FAIR.
tWRITTEV FOB THE DISPATCH.
A man, complaining of the rudeness of a
woman employed in one of the central tele
phone offices, brings out with fresh force the
fact that surliness aud impertinence of some
women in business situations are often very
troublesome and offensive to men. There
are unmannerly and cross men In such sit
m
In Seal and Rienian Sable.
-or
uations, too: but there is a certain quality
about feminine impertinence that is some
times encountered which is more galling
and exasperating than that of a man. The
fact, too, that it cannot be resented In the
same wav as a man's would ba makes it
harder to put up with. The business woman
is learning that, a best, she is considerably
handicapped in the race with her commer
cial brother, and she is learning that, in
every way possible, she needs to lighten
this "cloggy weijht. Fortunately, for the
chances ot her better-mannered sisters m
the struggle, the saucy business woman is
the exception and not the rule.
Where a bed is obliged to face a window,
as is sometimes necessary, a decoration and
a relief in one is secured by a valance above,
instead of below the footboard. Tiro small
brass uprights are fastened in it, with a rod
joining them on which is hung a curtain ot
some light silk or stuff in harmony with the
general tone of the room.
A woman, commenting recently on decol
lete corsages as she saw them abroad, says
that the V-shaped bodice is dUtinctivelv
Trench, while the round corsaee. showing
neck and shoulders is as distinctivelv
English. And ot the two it is oltencr the
Frenchwoman wno displays more of her
charms than is in good taste, than her
English sister.
Miss Emily Hnntington, the mother of
the kitchen-garden system, resigns her
work in this city bhortly to take up her
residence in Chicago during the fair. Her
department will be shown in the Chil
dren's Building, New York section. The
kitchen-garden system, which she founded
over 20 years ago, is now taught in Eng
land, France and Japan. The svstem, di
vided into six parts, includes kindling tires,
waiting on the door, bed-making, sweeping,
how to handle knile and fork, broom and
duster, how and in what order to take hold
of all kinds of household work. A month
is allowed to learn each part, the course
being finished in six months.
.Fireplace cushions are large and usually
stuffed with hair to give a little more of a
seat than the down affords. They are effect
ive in coduroy in plain tones to match or
harmonize with the prevailing color scheme
of the room.
Silk sheets are a fashionable caprice.
They are usually white, hemstitched, but
are also shown in pale pinks and blue to
match rooms. Sometimes a delicate line of
einbrniderv outlines the hem. It must be
added that their use seems questionable
taste.
Peacock leathers are being sold in the
streets to mount on hand and fire place
screens.
Hot water bags are often overert with
flannel with or without a wadded interlin
ing. The latter increases the length of
time of retaining the heat, and the flannel
covering is usually pleasnutcr to come in
contact with a sensitive spot than the rub
ber. A fancy of the moment for evening gloves
is to have the edge trimmed with a band oi
artificial flowers. These are made ot silk
velvet or kid, most often the latter.
The collection of autogranh recipes Is
quite a fad ot the moment among house
keepers with a taste for cooking. Dainty
little booklets, with ornamental covers, are
passed around among one's friends, and
famous recipes exchanged. Many of these
are home-made, the covers being of card
board, ornamented with suitable designs.
A pretty set of leaves intended for chafing
dish recipes had .such a utensil in bold out
line on the cover, set in an oial ol cleverly
interwoven knives, forks and spoons. An
"oyster" book was tinted oyster white, and
a pile of shells, open and shut, sketched on
its covers. So on, indefinitely. A particu
larly dainty one which is intended lor a
"dear invalid's" Christmas gift has the
cover cnt in a pansy shape, with a bunch of
tinr Johnny jump-ups at one side, and a
miniature tray with tea service set out oc
cupying the heart of the big pansy. The
leaflets are of similar shape, tied together
with violet and gold ribbons, and on their
pages is written by loving friends of the
sick woman ail sorts of tempting iick dishes,
delicate, wholesome and nutritious, whose
very reading makes one hungry.
Pretty schoolbags lor little girls are made
of gray fine ribbed corduroy, with initials
outlined in Roman floss. They are in the
shape of the old-fashioned purses, and draw
together with silver and gilt rings.
Low chairs with cretonne cushions, and
low, short benches, also cushioned, are
"slipper seats" that short women, or indeed
any women, find especially useful.
At the new Theater ot Arts and Letters in
New York "bonnets off'' is obligatory.
Women need not be in evening dress, but
they must be without other headgear than
their crown of glory.
Frozen tea now vies with cafe frappe as
an "afternoon" delegability.
An unusually pretty effect was noticed
recently in a room wkero the two windows
were quite close together. Instead of two
poles, one long one swept the entire space,
and between the windows the straignt tail
ing cretonne ot the curtains was carried on
in a graceful festoon that added much to
the whole effect
. The decoration of the bride's table at
wedding breakfasts is becoming the chief
care of florist and caterer. The bridal party
at a wedding ot last week ate at a board of
polished satin wood. A beautiful white
table center of German open work was in
the shape of a huge rose, and smaller rose
doylies were under the plates. Orange
blossoms with feathery asparagus and
waxen erailax trailed over the board, and
white china candelabra with white candles
and shades. A lovely Cupid swung over
the centerpiece of two large hearts pierced
by a single arrow, all in bride roses and
orange blossoms. The ices were served in
white catin cups of the same twin-heart
design, and a murmur of applause greeted
the serving of the cream to each guest an
easily distinguished monogram in pistacne
and white of the bride's and groom's in
itials. Co-operation In a new form 1 that carrledj
" j -v - a " ,- 7i J"
on by a club of young women, who work in
a shoe factory in one of the New England
manufacturing centers. The club members
pool their earnings, over and above what is
needed to support- them, with strict
economy, and invest in real estate. Al
ready their holdings are quite large and
proving profitable.
Margaret H Welch.
A sTsw year menu.
PKErAnED FOR THE DISPATCn.l
Clear Soup, With Grated Cheese.
Thin Bread and Butter.
Creamed nh. Potato Sonfflo.
Broiled Sweetbreads. French l'ejs.
Boast Ducks. Brown Gravy.
Cranbeiry Marmalade.
Boiled Onions. Stowed Colery.
Lettuce Salad. Fi encli Dressing.
Cheeso Finsaia. Duviled Chestnuts.
Coffee Jelly. Whipped Croaui.
Mixed Cakes. Fruit. Xuts.
liaisins. Bonbons.
Black Coffee
How to Prepare the Dishes.
Clear Soup The following recipe mav be
relied upon as producing superior stack,
which may be used for a variety of soups.
Take four pounds of lean' beef, cut into
small pieces and put in the soup pot with
a calf's foot, salt and pepper. Allow a pint
of cold water to a pound of meat. Let warm
gradually, as the slower it cooks the better
it will be. When the broth begins to sini-
nier sprinkle a little flour over it to help j
raise the scum. bUim carefully an I con
tinue to do so until all it removed. When
this isdone, add a large carrot cut in four,
a leek or two, a bouquet ot parsley and cel
ery tied together, an onion with three
cloves stuck in it, a bay leaf, and a small
lump of sngar.
Let simmer genflv for six hours, then
strain through jelly bag. If mado accord
ing to directions, this soup will be per-
EVENING COTVNS AND
fectly clear. Sprinkle the crated cheese
over it the moment it is served.
Creamed Fish Take boiled fish of any
kind, remove bones and skin, and put the
flakes in a stew pan with a lump of butter.
When quite hot remove and cover with
well-seasoned cream sauce. Crumble over
all the yolks of two hnrd-boikd eggs.
Potato souffle Take a tlnztn good-sized
potatoes, pare them carefully aud remove
all specks. Put them in a stew pan with
cold water and salt. Boil until tender.
Drain and mash them smooth. Add but
ler size ot an egg, the beaten yolks of four
eggs and salt and pepper to taste. Beat
the w liites to a stiff troth and fold in lightly
with the potatoes. Put in a souffle tin or
baking dish in which it must be served
and bake IS minutes in a brisK oven.
Broiled Sweet-breads Take throatsweet
breads, let them lie in sock several hours,
changing the water frequently. When freed
ficni redness throw into rapidly boiling
water nnd boil five niinutes. Then immerse
in cold water, and when quite firm put in
press between two dishes to flatten. When
about to cook them, wipe very dry and split
them in half, lengthwise. Broil "over a hot
fire and turu when they begin to drip.
When richly browned iip in melted butter,
well seasoned, and turn them over several
times. A little pungent sauce may be added
to the butter it liked. Put in the center of
a warm dish and surrouud with the French
peas hot and seasoned with salt,pepper, a
pinch of sugar and a pat of butter.
Roast Ducks Prepare the ducks after
the usual method, season well, both inside
and outside with salt and pepper. Omit
the stuffing. Put a little water iu the bake
pau, lay the ducks on the rack and cover
the pau closely. When nearly done, re
move cover, bate generously with melted
butter aud dredge light with flour. Bake
until richly browned and serve with a bor
der of glazed onions or turnips. Full grown
ducks will require lrom an nour to an
honr and a quarter ducklings 45 minutes
or less, according to taste.
Glazed Onions Take small onions of uni
form size, peel them and put them in a
stew-pan, with two tablespoonfnls ot butter
and a tablespoonful ot powdered sugar. Let
Biinmer in this mixture for a lew min
utes, then add broth to cover them. Sea
son with salt and pepper. Stew until ten
der, turning tbem olten, carefully. Add to
the gravy a tablespoonful ot brown sauce.
BKOWN SAUCE.
Put two tablespoonluls of butter in a pan.
When it begins to bubble stir in a tablespoon
ful of flour, a teaspoonful of sugar, and stir
until quite brown. Remove from the fire
and make it liquid with boiliug water,
stirring it all the time. Add salt and
pepper.
Cranberrv marmalade One quart of ber
ries washed and "carefully prepared. Boil
ten minutes iu a half pint of water. Mash
and strain through a sieve. Add one pound
ot sugar, and a level teaspoonful ot corn
starch. Simmer fifteen minutes. When cold
serve in slices.
Stewed Celery Remove the leaves from
the celery and clean the heads thoroughly.
Cut the stalks in small pieces and stcV in a
little rich .stock. When tender pour in some
cream, dredge over it lightly with flour,add
a pat ot butter, salt, pepper and a grate of
nutmeg.
Salad Serve the lettuce leaves unbroken.
Keep in a cool place until needed. Mix
with a few sprigs ot cress. Serve with
French dressing, mixed in the order given.
One saltspoon salt, one-halt saltspoon of
pepper, three tablespoonfuls of olive oil,
one-fourth teaspoon onion juice and one
tablespoonful ot vinegar.
Cheese Fingers Roll out rich paste very
thin. Cut into long, narrow strips. Strew
with grated cheese, seasoned witn salt and
a dash of cayenne. Fold over, pinch the
edges aud glaze with the white of egg.
Bake light brown.
Deviled Chestnuts Remove the outer
shells from a number of selected,chestnuts.
Throw them into hot water, rub off the
kins, drain and wipe dry. Put a pat of
fresh butter in a pan, turn in the nuts and
toss about until they arc quite hot. Spread
on paper or napkin, remove to a dish aud
sprinkle with silted salt.
Cofleo Jelly Barely moisten one-half
.jt v"
box of gelatine with cold water. Let stand
10 minutes and then dissolve into a pint of
coflee strong and sparkling. The coffee
should be of the best mixed, strained
through a bag and reheated. Add three
quarters of a pound ot sugar and one-half
pint of boiling water. Strain into molds.
Serve with whipped cream. .
Whipped Cream To a pint of cream
not too ' rich add two tablespoonfuls of
sugar. Whip and remove the froth as it,
rises, and place on a sieve to drain. Set in
a cool place until needed.
Eixice Serena.
CHRISTMAS WEAKNESSES.
fWIUTTEX roil THE DISPATCH.!
The ministers don't know anything about
it when they say Christmas is peace xon
.earth; I'm more nearly right when I repeat
that the world and the flesh have things
their own way then. I can prove it to the
unbelieving men, if you like.
Firstly, the world filled the shop windows
with great heaps ot gleaming, glittering
riches; secondly, the flesh filled women's
hearts with a bursting desire to call those
riches their own; thirdly, the two together
laid their plot so late in the year that it is
our last chance to be covetous and al
together wicked. We may have just one
little week to finish spoiling a page that's
rather blotted, anyhow, aud I for one have
done. or rather am about to do it In my
heart of hearts, I don't think it is such a
fearfnl thing, tho" every one who knows
that I have accepted a magnificent marquise
from Charlie will say it is downright un
pardonable. He might bury me in roses and smother
me in orchid", and people would think it a
nice little attention, but when he puts the
same amount of money into opals and dia
monds well, I shall keep my lovely ring.
It fits me so suuglv that I can't lak'e it off
A rUR-LINED CAPE.
my finger, anyhow at least, I'm pretty
sure I couldn't take it off, even it Charlie
and I both tried.
When he put it on the other night I
wasn't looking. Like Satan, he came up
behind me, bent my head back against his
shoulder with one hand and slipped the
ring on the other. By nnd bv I told him it
must be distinctly understood that this
breach of convention had been made with
out mv will, knowledge, consent, or par
don. To which the monster retorted that
my eves had invited him to get that ring as
pmniy as eyes could, when we went
through the jewelry stores last week. He
said I would be subjected to arrest it I did
not render him an equivalent by taking
him to the familv dinner at Four Corners
Xmas Day. I advised him to arrest me im
mediately, then, because I had no intention
of displaying ray captive before IS cousins,
4 grandparents and 9 aunts, besides the
other people who would attend that Xmas
dinner. I think one ot us must have mis
understood the meaning of the term; at any
rate, I recanted on the arrest, and, after
pondering the subject that night I decided
to take Charlie o the country with me.
And it I don't have a glorious day and
make this a Christmas to be long
remembered in our short and
simple annals then, whv. I'll fail in
mv attempt to make it pleasant for dear
Charlie. Here is my voucher ot good faith,
painted on a heavy card.
To Charlie, for oue diamond and opal mar
quise ilngr, and for himself in toco and per
petuity Ono Cirrle, from 8 SO Christmas
morning till midnight.
This loan to he subject to recall at discre
tion of owner, nod to conditions on tho back
ol tills document.
On the other side was my programme of
the good time I'm going to have,
with illustrations. The illustrations
were a lot, of work men are so
stupid unless their propensities are truly
rural, which Charlie's are not, I fancy. I
explained the sketches by writing this in
my plainest hand:
8.30 a. u. Wo miss the train which takes
mv parents to Four Cornois.
9 mii. We take the next train for Four
Corners, and walk across the fields to the
house. 1 see a savage cow; Charlie saves me
flora a hideous death.
10 a. m. We take a horseback ride; seo 11
luitnitlon for Iprther Infoimation.
1 t, m. Dinner, nt which Wo behave as
though Mrs. Sherwood had planned the de
tails of our day.
1 r. sr. We yo a-skating. A sudden chill
may seize me. Charlie must be prepared for
thu emergency.
6 p. it. Tho farmhouse, pumpkin pie and
cider.
Aud this is all that I dare to write on my
Xmas gilt to Charlie. But it isn't the end.
Oh, no, it isn't the end. That will be a
tableau finale, a lively climax to the tame
amusements of the day, a something to make
nivselt remembered! It is to be a dance in
a country kitchen, before people who know
not from the beginning what that dance is
at the ending ot it I shall dance it in my
costume my red and black tulle dress.
And the uneles and aunts will smile at
first, and the girls will wish they could
take those pretty steps, and Charlie, pale
A Sudden Cftill May Seize Me.
i? -.Jw
as a ghost, will mutely beseech me tn stop,'
But I shall lull them all into' confidence,
and then, beore an audience which will
nerve me to my best, I will show what an
American girl can do. What will hanpen
next? I don't know. Idon'tctre. Butof
one thing I am sure. There will be a scan
dal in Four Corners, but I shall have had a
Merrv Xmas. Carrie Careless.
IJHE FADS OF THE HOUR.
rronnrspoSDEKcE nr the dispatcit.i
New Yore, Dec. 2a Many novelties in
this fashionable world add much to the ap
pearance of a well dressed woman and cost
very little, but she must have them when
they first come ont, or better not have them
at all. In veils, for instance, the ultra
fashionable are now wearing bright purple.
They are very pretty and very becoming,
as they add great brilliancy to the complex
ion. You can get them in all the fancy
meshes, bat the fabric should not be very
heavy. I would not advise one to buy it by
the yard, as a veil or two will last as long
as tile fashion, for anything so conspicuous
and universally becoming will soon be
taken up by everybody and become no
longer desirable. It is with this as it is
with all'fads now or never.
The newest gloves lor street wear are of
heavy weight the prevailing color being
red, Varying in shades from the dark Rus
sian to a" bright red. They are fastened at
the wrist with two large buttons. The
gloves also come with four buttons, but the
two buttons are considered more stylish.
For calling and evening wear the gloves
were never more beautiful. They are- of
the most delicate snades anil are exquisite
ly stitched, while the more fanciful ones
are delicately embroidered, and are quite a
luxury. A pair ot pearl colored glove,
with dark stitchiug, will look well with
most any calling costume. The dressed
kid Is more worn now than the undressed
and is much more serviceable.
The latest dresses for street wear have the
skirts made to just touch the ground, and
are considerably more full in the back.
This you will be told by all the best ladies'
tailors and dressmakers in New York.
Although some ot the sleeves are enor
mous, one ot the best importers here says
they are not making the sleeves so large.
The coats have struck a happy-medium in
length. They are not as long as they were
in the early autumn, without being short.
The chatelaine pins lor watches have had
their day. They have been imitated in all
the cheap materials but tin, and I might
say tin also, as you can get them from 25
cents up. Some people who have very
handsome ones still wear them pinned U
their belts, but one never sees anyone that
makes the slightest pretention to style
wearing them pinned upon her bodice, as
was the style last winter. Some in them
under their jackets to hide them altogether.
The newest thing is to put the watch iu the
iront of tiie bodice, as was the habit with
those little short chains w ith the ball on the
end. Just such a chain is used, caught up
with a little bar pin, allowing the ball to
han about an inch lrom the pin, with the
other part of the chain attached to the
watch. They are regularly made, the pin
having the rings to catch the chain, and if
you need a new chain lor your watch I ad
vise you 'to put this on your list. Avery
pretty design is a short chain, caught up
with a bow-knot, instead ot the bar pin, but
the bow-knot must be at the extreme end
of the chain. Now it you have a pretty
bow-knot pin among jour trinkets, and a
short bit ot chain, you could fasten one end
ot it to the watch and the other to the pin,
and have a good style chain.
The new lorgnette chains are very hand
some. Thev are delicate gold chains, with
pearls or different jewels set in every three
inches, but are only intended tor lull
dress, and look very pretty on the neck or
light colored gowns. For street wear they
have narrow black ribbon, with small
stitches. These are not so conspicuous,
and are in a great deal better taste for dark
gowns. The good lorgnette chains range in
price from S1S0 to 5200, etc., while they can
be bad in the imitation for 08 cents up to
53. It seems foolish to put so much money
iu anything that can he so perfectly imi.
tated that it will take a connoisseur to dis
tinguish them.
A very pretty fad is to tie a bunch of
flowers on tne muff A bunch of violets or
roses brighten up the fnr, and the effect is
very striking. The muffs are also jauntily
tied aroundthe neck with ribbons, which is
a verv convenient fashion, and especially
useful lor shopping.
S. Elizabeth Dickson.
WHERE THE WOMSrl PH0P03E.
They Have That Privilege Among Some of
tho Ancient Itaces.
The JIllllon.3
In the Ukraine, Russia, the woman does
all the courting. When she falls in love
with a man she goes to his house and in
forms him of the state of her fellings. If
he reciprocates all is well, and the formal
marriage is duly arranged. It, however, he
is unwilling, she remains there, hopi g to
coax him to a better mind. The poor lei
low cannot treat her with the least discourt
esy, nor has he the consolation of being
able to turn her out, as her friends in such
a case would feel bound to avenge the in
sult His remedy, therefore, if determined
not to marry her. 'is to leave his home and
star away as long as she is in it.
On the Isthmus of Darien either sex can
do the courting, with the natural result
that almost every one gets married. A
similar practice to thit in tho Ukraine ex
ists among the Zuni tribe ot Indians. The
woman does all the courting, and also con
trols the situation after marriage. To her
belong all the children, ai:d descent, includ
ing inheritance, is also on her side.
The same custom prevails among the
Vigrees, a tribe in Cabal, and the Nairs of
Malabar. Among them the Uaro race of
Abssam, in Northeast India, it is not only
the privilege, but even the duty of the girl
there to speak first
Slore ISconoinlcal to Talk French.
A discussion is being carried on In rela
tion to the telephone cable connecting
England and France as to whether it is more
economical to carrv on conversations over
the line iu English or in French. The toll
is about 52 for three minutes' use and conse
quently the relative rapidity of the two
languages enters as an important factor.
At present the Frenchmen seems to have
the better of the controversy.
CHltlVTMASDAY.
Oallery Open All Bay.
One dozen cabinets and a large crayon for
tS onlr. Hendricks & Co. 'a photograph gal
lery, No. 68 Federal street, Allegheny. Cab
iu'ets ih So extra charge for family groups.
No Christinas and New Tear's table shonld
be without a bottle of Angostura Bitters,
the world renowned appetizer of exquisite
flavor. Beware of counterfeits
. Dewttt'b Little Early Risers. No J&riplng'
no pain, qo nausea; easy pill to take.
7
irTnWifrMK
The Horning Salute.
NEW ADTERnSEMEXK.
Baking Powder,
"Absolutely the Be3t."
Put Negatively,
Contains no ammonia, no
alum, no adulteration.
Not so much is required
for the same baking as of
other kinds.
Food made with it has no
bitter taste, and does not
dry out
MAKE NO
rm... .
SM7aa,
3SS5
;aMssOs:
First
"-"arsfentiire . j JlfSL
SfEWYrriSOTaSECl?1! Infant
wranstTaetJieisus
i, Your
For coffee and chocolate, use
&H0WEBS OF BLACK BAIN.
Examination Proved It to Have a Frotld
Smell and a Bad Taste.
Philadelphia Press. 1
The meteorological records of the world
chronicle several incontestable instances of
back rainfalls, to say noth'iiig of the jnore
startling phenomena of "showers of blood,
blue snows," etc. Prof. Barker, in April,
1815, laid belore the Eoyal Society of
Dublin some observations on a shower of
black rain which iell around Carlaw and
Kilkenny, extending altogether over an
area ot about 400 square miles.
During the course of his lecture. Prof.
Barker exhibited to the society a specimen of
this uncanny shower which bad been sent
him by a friend. The specimen shown in
the phial was of a uniform black color, much
resembling common black writing fluid.
Dr. Barker found, however, that alter al
lowing it to stand for a short period, the
black coloring matter separated from the
water with which it had mired, rendering
the color of the rainwater much lighter,
but still dark enough to be called "blacic
rain." The shower, which was in broad
daylight, was preceded br a darkness so
dense as to make it impossible for one to
rrad without the aid of a candle. Alter
this darkness had continned tor some time,
a hailstorm set in, attended with vivid
lightning, but without the least semblance
ot thunder. When this hajlstorm was over
the black rain began to fall.
On examination ot the rain immediately
alter the storm was over, it was iound to
have an entremely Icetid smell, as well as a
very disagreeable Uste. All light-colored
animals and all articles of clothing ex
posed bore dark spots aud stains, and cat
tle refused to drink the water or eat the
grass until after a shower of "real rain"
bad washed off the black, poisonous mat
ter. A THE0BY OF ST0BHS.
It
Was Suggested to 3Ir. Itedfleld by a
Heavy Xew England Gale.
In the year 1821 a severe storm prevailed
alonz the eastern coait, which for many
years was known as the "great September
gale." It held that title until September,
1869, when another and more remarkable
one oecnrred, which rather disturbed its
claim to the honor. It was a little time
after the first storm that William C Bed
field, the meteorologist, while making a
Journey in Massachusetts, was struck by a
somewhat curious fact. He noticed that
in Massachusetts the trees prostrated by
the wind all lay with their heads to the
southeast, showing that the gale there was
from the northwest, bnt in Connecticut
the trees blown down in the same storm lay
head to tne northwest, showing that the
gale had been a southeast one. He ascer
tained, moreover, that when the wind wan
blowing southeast in Middleton, his home, it
was northwest at s place not 70 miles from
there.
It was then that the idea flashed across
his mind that the gale was a prosressive
whirlwind. That was a creat thought. It
was such a dash ot perception as came to
Newton when he connected the falling ap
ple with the planets in spaci. It was such
an insieht into the meaning of a fact as
James Watt had when he saw the possibili
ties of the force that u as ratling the lid of
the kettle on his mother's lire.
The development of that idea was des
tined one day to put lied field in the rank of
the great scientific thinkers of the day, says
the Formlar Science Monthly. He made this
storm the basis of his investigation, fol
lowing his researches into its movement by
a careful collection of facts in relation tn
others like it. For ten years he studied
and examined and compared his facts before
he published his theory of storms.
BEADY FOR THE HOLIDAYS.
Go to Gregor Meyer's, No. 237 Ohio Street,
A l.'gheny, for PuVo Wines an-l Liquors.
The holiday yeason of 189-93 finds tho
apove well-Known donler in wines and
liquor better prepared than ever boforo lo
meot all requirements of (hoe uantlnspnro
poods. Tho entire five floors or this estab
lishment a! o stocked u ltli California, native
white and sweet wines and lorehzn and
native Honors. Mr. Jlever make- a point of
nvoldlns'ull adulterated goods, and his long
experience enables him to successfully ac
complish this. Xntrrltlistnndinsr tho face
that all goods orTeien aro the Lest, tho prices
asked are always icasonuhle. An l'Jcaol
the Immense assortment now carried in
stock can bo gained from the following list.
The nntive wine may be mentioned: Cali
fornia Zinlandel ol.iret wine. California
table claret wine.C'ulllornia lluruudy wine,
Cali'ornla Motaro wine. AVhlto wines
California Kit-slim: white wine, Ciliiornia
Gniedel, gauvUnon vert. Sneet wines
C&tliornla Muscatel wine. Call ornia ToSay
uine, California port and slurry wine, Cali
fornia Angelica, Malabo, sherry and other
native wines always In stoclr. ForeUru and
domestic champagnes always on hanJ.
Holiday Excursions.
On December?!, 23,20, 31. nnd January 1
and 2, the Pittsburg nnd Lako Erie Railroad
Company will sell exclusion tickets, good
to return until Junimrj 3, inclnnive, at ono
and one-third fare, between all stntlons.aud
also to Zrlo, Cleveland, Chicago, Dayton and
intermediate points. Try the new fast
trains, only 3 hoars to Cleveland, 8 hoars
to Buffalo and U to Chicago
- tVvr f&frzi
-. jnnnt- jn
issssB
Put Positively.
Everything used in making-
it is printed on the label.
A rounded teaspoonful
does more work and finer
work than a heaping tea
spoonful of others.
Food made with it is sweet
and keeps sweet, and retains
its natural moisture.
MISTAKE!
In buying condensed milk. Take
no substitute for the
ei!L80!iDHBuL'6eillD
Condensed Milk. There are cheaper
and inferior "brands to the "Eagle"
but none that equal it. It has stood
for 30 years. It is a perfect
IOr OVj
Food
Grocer and Druggist sell it.
one teaspoonful for each cup.
KILE
For Bathrooms, Kitchens,
Pantries, Vestibules, Halls
and Hearths,
Only 35c a Roil
-AT-
541 Wood St., Pittsburg.
IE H PRICES.
del5-sn
uiuiiuiuuiuiuimniiuiniuiRnnijiuiriiiminiiim,
LOVELY FACES,
WHITE HANDS.!
Nothing wfll 5
WHITEN and CLEAR
tne akin ao quickly as sg
Dena-Hei
The new dijeoverr Jfordis-3
solving nnd reraoTing ducolorationi from the en- 3
5 ticle.andbleachlnsand brightening the complex- 3
lon. In experimentins iu tlio lanudrr with as
5 new bleach for fino fabrics it wa3 diicorered that S
Ball spots, freckles, tan and other disenloratlona 3
: were quickly rcmorod from the liauda anil arms 3
3 without the ehglitnit injury to the skin. The dis-
COTery was snbiiittcd to experienced Dennatolo- 3
s gists and Physicians who prepared for us the 3
E formnli of tlia marrelon Derma-ltoyale. Turiut s
snevie wis ASTTiua nun it. It is perfectly 5
B harmless and so nimpls a child cin nse it. Apply 3
H at nlslit the improvement apparent after a uqgle
3 application will snrpriso and delight yon. jy It 3
3 nnlcklr d'MoWes and removes tho worst forois of
S moth-pntches. brown or llrer spots, freckle".
s blackheads, blotches, sallonnesa, fedneas, tin
and orery discoloration of tho cuticle. Ono bottle 3
3 completely remoTcs andcnrcstuemostiircrnTated 3
3 case and thoroughly clears, whiten and beaatlSes 3
tho connlexion. It has ncrcr failed it CAiinT 3
Braiiv.1: is lilshly recommended by riiyslcianss
and its sure results vamut ns in otTering 3
CtZn( RFWAI?D Toasscro tlio public of its 3
JbDUl) frVHVi:-. merits we agree to forfeit H
p Tiro Hundred Dollars cash, for any case of moth- 5
Pitches, brown spots, liror spots, blackheads, ugly 3
or muddy skin, unnaturil rcdne, freckles, tan
3 or any other en taneons tliscotorations. (excepting S .
a birth-marks, ccara, 1 nd tlioso of a scrofulous or 3
kindred nature) that Derma-Itoyalo will not 5
"inicklr rcmoTonnd cure. Wo also agree to forfeit 3
3 t'Irs Hundred Dollirs to any person whose skin s
scan be injured in the slizbtest possible manner. 3
3 or to anyone whose co.nplcxion (uo matter bow
bad It mar lie), will not be cleared, whitened, im-
proved and beautified by the nse of Derma-Boyale. 3
- Pats? la eleat ttyla Is Isrye cIM-giows bslUcs. 3
Price, 81. EVEKT bottlb GUARANTEED.
Derma-Royale sent to any address, safely packed 3
S and securely sealedfrorn observation, safedellrery a
3 guaranteed, on receipt of price. 81.0O per bat-
3 tic Send monr by registered letter or money 3
order with your fall post-office address written
3 plilnly; bo sure to pive yonr County, and mention
I-this paper. Corn-pond nre sacredly private. 3
3 Postage stamps rcceired the same as cash. 1 a
C AUmsTho DERMA-ROYALE COMPANY, s
ContrBlltradVileSti. CrNCISSATI, OHIO, j
mniiniiiumuiiiiiiiuaiiuiumum:iiiir,ummum
Cress Suits,
Tronerlns. silk vesting and overcoatings
tooruer, at I'ncairu f, u wood street.
NATURAL FRUIT FLAVORS.
Yanflla
Lemon
Orange
Almond
Rose etc.
Of perfect purity.
Of great strength.'
Economy In their us
I
Flavor a3
ana dolIcJousIvas the fre3h fruit
ror sal Ly Geo, K. Steven sou Co.,i
UX 4-CiaS9 JfTOCCI-
TILE PAPERS,
THIKIFS .
y DELICIOUS ;j
Extracts!
4
i