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S "" .,'rkB MrrsBUKGr" dispatch Sunday, , 'September- li; v 1892.- "??wjp!wsi , -'swt
NOT PRETTY AT ALL
A Close Inspection of the Eng
lish "Woman Reveals One
Point of Beauty
AKD THAT IS HER YOICE.
Clean and Wholesome-Looking, but
Slngsish and Graceless.
THOUGHTFUL OF HER DKPORTMEKT
3he Fur Department the Most Attraciire In
the London Shops.
BTILES CEETAIXLI KOT COMMENDABLE
fCOERESrOXDEXCI OF TOT DISPATCH.
London", Sept. 2. Someone has said it
a strange fact that Americas women never
look English; that at their best they ap
pear Parisian and at their w orst, Spanish or
VTest Indian.
Let us hope that this "strange fact" is a
correct diagnosis of onr style. I don't
know how a Spanish or "West Indian woman
appears outside of a picture, and I hare as
yet only seen imported French women, but
I am quite sure I would prefer to look like
either type than look English. My dear
friend Cornica says she would rather be an
old v oman in America than a young En
glish woman, and I must say: "Them's
my sentiments, tew."
Well, there is nothing like being self
satisfied since there is no one else with
whom one must spend so much time, and
neither Cornica nor I are longer young, nor
pretty, alas! Neither could we be reck
oned "smart" according to the English
translation ot the word, nor yet clever
after the American idea, but I am sure you
will believe wc must be very sensible first
to realize and nezt to admit these sorry
tacts.
Comparisons Am Pleasing: Tnls Tlmv
But the point to which this admission
leads is this: Being nothing to brag of in
onr own country, so lull of beautiful and
charming women, over here we lose noth
ing by comparison with English women.
(Inferences upon this point furnished if
necessary). I have no intention of playing
Kudyard Kipling, and have not the ambi
tion to get back at that gifted critic for his
caustic comments upon American women,
their lack of style, uncouth manners and
loose morals, and I believe it is pretty well
known that I am a woman's woman, prefer
ring always to say the best I know of
women wlierever found.
But judging by their appearance on the
street, in shops, at the theater and at
church, I must in all honesty say the job
lot leit in town at this season are the home
liest, dowdiest, most loose-jointed and
graceless nomen imaginable in a great city
liKe London. They really look like women
who never had known the advantages of a
life in town. "White faces they certainly
I'ave, and the red wine of health paints
their cheeks, but the white is of the bread
and butter variety and the red, so vivid as to
suggest tne rouge-pot. Their complexions
have not the same dainty transparency and
delicate coloring that those of the Irish
beauty have; no more have their eyes alike
brightness nor their mouths a comparable
sweetnese of expression,
Month or an English Woman.
Indeed, this last feature is the English
women' worst. Their mouths are abnor
mally large, of every shape except the per
fect, And look as if the v stood open all night
long. Wholesome looking women they are
most certainly. They haTe not been over
rated in this regard. They look equal to
the physical endurance with which they
lnne been proverbially credited, but, oh, it
is such a sluggish wholesomeness! There is
no sparkle, no tprightliness, no litbeness of
figure, no supple grace, none of that gentler
craft which is a woman's heritage. All of
these womanly attributes the cultivated
Irish woman has and yet is stronger than
her English sister.
Tne English woman is of heavy mold.
She eems built to outlive the most ardent
aflection that could be bersfor the winning.
One realizes she has bone ior her founda
tion, and not wire, and while she could not
dance so gracefully as you could, in a walk
ing match she would be "out of sight."
But you would not want to walk like her
reallv nu would not There is no poetry
of motion in her movements she is slip-
last fall in America. This cape was mads
to her order. h pin7 the nelt before it
was cut. it was lined with silk-backed j
satin, and finished in a very superior way
in every detail.
The lur season lasts all the year around
here. Such a thing as storing furs for the
summer weather is unknown. "While the
women will get into white and all pretty
light clothes yet they are seldom seen with
out a wrap on their arm if it is not on the
back, and this wrap is commonly fur in
congruous enough yon will say.
Htw Fricra Compare Tvlih Oars.
Nearly everything priced In the drygoodi
line is just a little cheaper than at home.
Special bargains are offered in silk or
woolen hosierv and underwear, but the
gloves are a delusion and a snare. "We
hope for better things inithis line when we
reach Paris. Ithink I said nearly everything
was cheaper here than at home, but the one
thing we most wanted was not, and that was
a readv-made dress. "We had plumed our
selves for a real English town, one of the
kind you read about "you know" and we
not only (ailed to find the ideal gown, but
failed to have tnonev enough to pay for
anything that we could persuade ourselves
would do 545 would buy only the plainest
blue or gray worsted frock, with maybe a
little gilt b'raid for trimming, which only
cheapened the general effect Of course
this gown like all others, was lined with
silk; we were shown nothing with cotton
lining. Bnt then, we only vMted stores
whose sign bore the talismanic words
"Costumer for Her Majesty, " or "Cnstumer
for the Boyal family. ,(
However, it by no means follows that we
visited only the highest priced stores for
that sign like the trail of the serpent is over
alL In the language of the small boy. it
made us "awful tired " One genius has a
sign "Hatter to His Excellency, the Presi
dent of the United States."
Mabt Temple Bayard.
AFTER THE OUTING.
Hints for the Fair in Setting Up
Home Establishments Again.
WOEKJNG BACK TO THE ROUTINE,
Bat j of the Moihr With the Great Asiatic
1 lague at Our Doors.
LOKG SOLD CHAINS IX BTII.B
NOW
i
BECEIVD MILLIONS OF STAMPS.
Slrango Story of a Newspaper F.iko Circu
lated About an English Lady.
Chicago Tribune.
The recent death of Miss Penelope Every,
only daughter ot the late Sir Henry Every,
of Eggington Hall, Derby, England, at the
age of 84, recalls one ot tbe oddest mistakes
that the press has ever been the means of
circulating. About 1850 a paragraph went
the round to the effect that a w ealthy and
eccentric individual had announced his de
termination to send his daughter to a nun
nery unless she could collect in a given
time an almost impossible number of can
celed postage stamps. It happened that
Miss Every was applied to by a friend who
had interested herself in the case, and by
some misunderstanding, a second paragraph
was published associating Miss Every's
name with the task of receiving collections
of stamps toward the ransom. Immediately,
Eggington Hall was inundated with English
and foreign stamp, to the nnmber ot ud-
ward ot two and a half millions. The an
noyance caused by this queer invasion
became so great that the Everys had to for
ward a notice to the Times intimating the
groundless nature of the prevailing impres
sion, and earnestly requesting that no fur
ther supplies might be dispatched.
o perpetuate the event Miss Every exe
cuted a clever picture representing the vast
assemblage ot packets, netted wrappers,
parcels, bags, boxes, cases, hampers, ana
other receptacles used in the conveyance of
the stamps, and of this curious sketch an en
graving appeared in the Illustrated London
Sous of the period. The letters which ac
companied many of the consignments were
bonnd p, and formed a portly volume,
which may probably yet be seen in the
family library.
Miss Every spent the early part of her
life at Eggington Hall," the happy
and constant companion of her father",
but after his death, in 1851, she went to
reside at Millington. There she was fore
most in all local charitable movements,
and was always to be found in the homes of
the sick and sorrowing, and for children,
above all, Miss Every most delighted to
work.
lwarrrair tor thi dispatch. 1
Although the noons are still warm and
only the early morning and late afternoon
hours cool to wrap needing, still the short
ening days are reminders of the waning
season, and finished outings turn attention
to fall renovations of the deserted and
closed homes. A delight of the autumn is
the open fire which many houses now have,
even if they are steam or furnace heated
besides. Everybody knows that the chim
ney seats are the desirable ones when the
sparks are flying np the chimney and the
wood is cracking cheerfully, aud an ar
rangement ot a sitting room fireplace in a
particularly hospitable house, Bhows how
the greatest number of these may be
evolved. The cushions are low and are up
holstered in red leather, the center being in
a separate section to draw away when in
use as a seat from the too ardent heat At
other times itrests against the low fender.
Linen "emergenoy cases" for traveling
are made of gray linen bound with bine or
red braid like a small brush or comb case.
A one end is awide'pocket divided into
three compartments, which hold respec
tively an envelope of court plaster, a pack
age of antiseptic cotton, and a flat card
wound with fine linen twine. Above the
pockt is a band of inch-wide silk elastic,
the color of the binding stitched down at
intervals to form five holdings for five one
half ounce flat bottles with contents labeled
knows of one or more families in her
neighborhood who are entirely destitute of
sanitary knowledge of any sort To such it
wonld be a kindness amounting perhaps to-life-saving
to urge the necessity of care and
boiled water.
It ii possible now to get such extremely
.pretty rugs, even of large size, at rates
within the most moderate purse, that house
keeper can indulge their ambition lor rug
covered floors almost without stint The
smooth prayer rugs, worn to silken fineness
by the slippered ieet of the Orientals, are
still costly, and remain a prized object with
iEARING THE TENUS.
The American Girl Ib Fast Growing
Into the Ideal Beanty.
gPU&TMjO0TrggTM
HER FOEM BECOMING MORE AMPLE,
The Waist More Natural, the Feet Larger
and the Hands Entailer.
NOT ASHAMED TO EAT A EQUABE MEAL
An Emergency Case.
JtHfj u iff H-, . f-m
i iii i ii -
Novet Fire Place Arrangements.
shod.
lie Vole j Is to B e Admired.
But you will think I am not going to
leai e the English woman one tning to re
deem her from hatefulness, but I am, for
she has what ti e have not and which I am
much a'raid we as a people never shall
have, that most estimable charm a sweet
low voice. "While the English woman's
voice has not that winning, almost
persuaie quality peculiar to the Irish
voice, yet it is low and agreeable, not jar
ring. And then she impresses one as being
so pre-eminently respectable, and thought
ful of her deportment, which should be
quite cnoush to outweigh all short comings
but is it?
"Where did we get our exalted idea of
English style, please? That a garment or
costume came to us irom England has al
wavs been enough to make it the rage, and
really there have been some pretty things
sent us with the English stamps! I ex
pected to find these same styles in London
as thick as gnats at summer sunset, but
they are all out of town. "Everybody is
out of town, you know." I have had that
answer to every and any inquiry until my
teeth are on edge and my ears ache. I am
afraid to ask one more question for fear of
the same answer with the inevitable "don't
you know," in which event I "know" I
should get the lockjaw, notwithstanding it
is said no woman was ever so afflicted.
The lie st Outfit for the TcurUt.
V everybody is out of town who are the
fnniltfinHe ftt npntril I Yt a, cimato nri ehnna
and whose carriages jam Kensington andj
Hyde Park and Botten Eon? Not all tour
Ins, for they are recognized at once by what
should henceforth be known as the tourist's
uniform, the blue serge, plain skirt and
blazer. Prom u knowledge corn of experi
ence, I can say this uniform is a comforta
ble and enduring outfit, uuaffected by
weather on sea or land. But then one does
hate to be mistaken for an orphan from an
American institution, given a holiday tour
for sweet charitv's sake, all on account of a
gown which, like most ugly things, lasts
lorever and a day.
Every style that ever has been, or is, can
be seen on the streets of London. One-half
the women are ruu filed up iu furs to the
top of their ears and the other half with
necks and arms showing through the sheer
fabric of their gowns. The majority of
wraps worn are those abominable loose
backed fnshts that were sent over for our
inspection and ultimate rejection last spring.
A man raid to me they looked to him as if
they needed seams taken in them some
where. I quite agree with him.
In the Shops of Iondon.l
Of course we have haunted the "Shops"
there are no stores over here) and Eegent
and Oxford streets have some fine shops
that fully snstain their reputation, but
their large stores are nothing with which to
surprise Americans. Our greatest delight
was in the fur stores which really are on a
magnificent plan and offer inducements
that pat to the test all one's moral courage.
Certainly there is no other setting lor a
woman's face so enhancing as lur and so
Cornica indulged herself in a fine seal cape
of verv stylish cut for which she paid
just half the price we knew they brought
THE PJTETJ2IA.TIC SULKY.
It Kuni So Easll j That JSttad S Mar Still Bd
the Queen of the Turt
Here is a sketch of the pneumatic sulkv
with which Nancy Hanks beat Maud S's
record. Everybody concedes now that it is
easier for both horse and driver, and many
do not concede that Maud S is not
Queen of the Turf. They think that
if she had had a pneumatic
"
when she made her record the figures would
have been so much lower that Nancy Hanks
could not have equaled it Getting ' rid of
the jolt makes it easier for the driver. The
ball bearings and wide tire make it easier
for the horse to draw. In these days of
oictcies everyDoay Knows wliat tne nail
bearing and the pneumatic tire are. The
tire is an advantage to the horse because it
will not cut into the dust or soft spots in
the track. If the reader will ride a solid
tire bicycle over a dusty road and then ride
a pneumatic tire uheel over the same road
he will appreciate why Nancy Hanks'
record is looked upon with suspicion. In
the illustration A. A. indicates the poiition
of the ball bearings. B. B. is the backbone
of the sulky; it is a hollow steel rod, thus
combining strength with lightness.
ICEBEHQS IN THE ALPS.
Bare rhenomnon That Generally Occurs
on the Ssa Coast.
lewTork Sun.
"When Lord Lonsdale returned from
British America he excited some amuse
ment by telling of the wonderful icebergs
he had seen pouring over falls iu the rivers
into one of the big lakes. It was thought
icebergs never originated inland. It is a
curious fact, however, that last summer
there was in the Alps an interesting clacial
phenomenon which may be compared with
the caving of glaciers in the Arctic regions.
In the valley of the Kaunserthal, about
four miles from its junction with the Inn
river, is the village of Nufels. The high
road here crosses the side valley of the
Nufler, which has its source in the great
heap of rocky debris at the foot -of the Gall
rut glacier. Of late j ears this glacier had
receded, and a lake had been formed at its
foot Gradually the lake, as its volume in-
creaseu, ciieuaea under tlie glacier. Dur
ing two cold summer months the lake re
ceived but a small water supplv, and its
surface sank until at last the e'nd of the
glacier was actually hanging In the air
above it
On August 7 of last year the end of the
glacier, a mass of ice estimated at 70,000
cubic ieet, broke off and fell into the lake,
causing it to burst through the embank
ment and rush down the valley, carrving
with it great masses of mud and rock.
Stealing a Tombstone.
At Prairie Lea (Tex.) cemetery about a
year, ago Mr. W. H. Thomas had a tomb
stone erected over the grave of one of bis
children. Several days since the sexton
noticed that the stone had been removed,
but Jie said nothing of it, thinking probably
it had been taken awav tor repairs or to
have some change made in it, but it is now
learned that the sexton was mistaken. The
stone has been, stolen.
across the bottom ot each: Ammonia,
witch hazel, camphor, glycerine, cologne.
A loop of elastic cord on one flap attaches
itself to a button on the opposite one when
they are folded over the bottles, and the
other ends are also folded and tied as in the
usual traveling dressing case.
Cooking by electricity is being demon
strated in England, and is surely one of the
probabilities of the near future. Fancy,
too, the convenience of doing a big family
ironing with a single electric "flat" that
knows no variation or cessation of heat,
which is an innovation not only promised
but shown. It looks as if the niillenium
of the housekeeper lies in the storage battery.
A good rule ior embroiderers to remember
in designing center cloths for the table is
that they should follow its shape, square,
oblong or round, as is the table.
Black corduroy is announced as among
the coming cloths for autumn tailor-made
wear. A winter of fringes is also pre
dicted. A good floor stain which is pertinent
with the above paragraph is raw sienna
ground in oil mixed with raw linseed oil
and turpentine, in the proportion of three
parts oil to one part turpentine; add a very
little bronze green color ground in oiL The
mixture should be rather thin, and after
being thoroughly stirred allowed to stand
over night Have the floor swept and
wiped clean with a damp cloth. It the
cracks are unusually wide they should be
plugged with puttyj aud this it is follv to
attempt one s selr. Any general utility I
man, sucn as every nouseceeper is apt to
know of, is equal to this work. Aline of
paint should be put over the cracks before
the putty is put on, as that holds it The
stain should be rubbed in with a woolen
cloth, keeping a clean cloth to wipe off
surplus stain. One coat or rubbing may
not be sufficient, and a second can be ap
plied. "When well dried in, after a day or
two apply a coat of varnish, which protects
the wood, and the smooth surface is readily
wiped free of dust
Transition times are always more or less
critical. The good of a summer outing is
often seriously neutralized by the methods
of workiug back to the winter routine. In
particular should care be exercised in the
case of delicate persons and children. To
start a child off to school the morning after
he reaches home from six weeks of roaming
the open country with no thought of books
or lessons, is almost crueL If he most be
gin the first day of the term see that the
home coming is accomplished a iew days
earlier, giving the boy or girl a chance to
get rewonted to familiar surroundings and
take up by degrees the routine of home life
again. If he dandles even after beginning
school do not chide him for it An editor
said recently: "It is understood in the
office that a man is of not much account for
a week after his return from his vacation."
Give a child more than a week to get started
and look for the good of his outing all
winter.
A word of caution to the boy's mother
may not be amiss. "Whether she has spent
her summer at home or in some country re
treat the langnid days of July and August
have seen a relaxation of her usual mode of
life. There is a certain vitality in the first
cool weather to wnich the system readily
responds, but it is follv to tax this sudden
buoyancy too severely. A touch of crisp
ness in the mornings makes the ambitifts
house-mother think of winter clothes and
preparations for the cozy winter home and
sbe is apt to spring at her mountain of
work all at once, exhausting her energy and
rapidly decimating her stock of reserve
strength secured through the idleness of the
summer. Take things slowly, my sister,
and you will take them longer!
The long gold opera chains of slender
strand are coming into favor again, a direct
reaction from the no chain of the pinned on
watch, at present so much in evidence.
the -rich; modern art, however, produces
these floor mats in such beautiful likenesses
of the mellow richness of the Eastern ones
that they are as satisfactory in all respects
save the one of tradition. "Wood floors,
whether tbey are of polished hard wood or
of other varieties stained, offer advantages
of cleanliness and wholesomeness not to say
nothing of artistic effect, that should be ap
preciated. If, however, there is but one
rug-covered floor in the house let that be
the dining room. It is desirable to have
this of hard wood that the dining table may
not stand on a wool mat, whicBis peculiarly
absorbent and disagreeably retentive of
food odors, but if this is not possible have
stained margins and a Kensington square
that mar be taken up dailr and shaken tree
of dust and crumbs. The satisfaction of eat
ing in a room that is not redolent of a year's
dinners hidden in carpet and draperies,
which should always be washable ones, by
the way, amply repays tbe slight additional
trouble to accomplish it
A pretty bedspread seen in a room where
rose was the prevailing hue was made of
coarse wide bobbinet trimmed with a
loosely-gathered frill or valance of the same
lace which had been darned in a conven
tional pattern with coarse rose flax. The
spread was lined with rose silesia, and was
made long enough to pass under the pil
lows, over which it was then brought and
tueked under them again. At the place
where the center of each pillow would come
was worked in the rose flax in bold outline
the monogram of the owner of the pretty
room.
Some authorities assert and seem to prove
that a child's disposition is to some extent
governed by his diet, citing a case of a
little girl who -lived principally on meat,
and whose really tigerish disposition was
ascribed to that fact While not wholly
admitting this, it is certain that whole
some food reacts to produce a wholesome
temperament ".t'onr. ana pie says an
old doctor, "are as perncious as original sin,"
and the philosophy of this blunt way of
putting it may well be considered.
A suggestion for holding clothing In
cramped quarters will bear repeating. It
is that of wooden boxes mounted on wheels,
which may thus be easily rolled under the
bed. Leather handles attached to the side
make them more readily managed and they
may be nearly as long as the bed, thus
affording much space.
Margaret H. Welch.
HOW TO TIE A EH0ESTBIHO.
tYF
The Trick Is Simple, bat "Very Few People
Do It In the Proper Way.
The really infallible way to tie a shoe
string, says the New York Herald, is to tie
an ordinary double
bow knot Then
before pulling it
down tight turn
loop No. 1 back
and pass it through
the opening once
more. Pull the
lopps out tight and
you will have a
knot which will
stay by yon
through the vicissi
tudes of any ordin"
ary day. Still an
other knot for
which untying if
not undying con
stancy is claimed
is as follows: Make
the first loop as
usual, then pass
string No. 2 over
loop No. x and in
stead of making
the second loop
right awav put
string No. 2 clear
through the open
ing under loop No.
1, bring around again and make the second
loop as usual.
This may sound blind, but by taking the
strings and following the directions point
by point they can be easily understood, and
a woman will be able to take her mind off
the subject of her shoestrings and give it to
the tariff question and other great prob
lems of the times in which women are sure
to be interested.
0Si
"With cholera knocking at our gates,
mothers will be more than usually mindful
of the children's diet The plethora of
fruit in September and October brings with
it the danger of over-indulgence, and the
necessity above all that it shall be in a fresh
and ripe state before it is eaten at alL
Some authorities recommend no raw fruit
in cholera times because of the possibility
in this way of introducing the dreaded
bacillus into the system. It has been
demonstrated that the cholera germ effects
an entrance through the alimentary canal,
and it is also accepted that the germ is de
stroyed by a high temperature, so that the
use of boiled water and cooked food, pro
vided the vessels iu which it is cooked are
clean, and all handling of food watched for
the same condition practically secures an"
Immunity from the disease. It is not alone
the house mother's duty to watch these
things in her own family; every inch one
Walked Air.iy In Her Sleep.
In Camden, N. J., 'the other night a po
liceman saw on the street a woman attjred
iu a wrapper with her hair hanging loosely
down her back. She was walking slowly
and when the officer approached her side he
was astonished to hear her snoring, although
her eyes were open. He addressed her
in low tones, but he received no answer.
He then crabbed her by the arm. This
aroused her. "When she was found by the
officer she was nearly two miles from her
home.
THINGS HAIST THE SAME.
twairouf roa THK DISPATCH.
They tiaint a nary one the same!
For though they've got the oltime name,
They don't slip down the way. yor know,
Things did sum twenty year ago.
There's buckwheat cakesl Grate Sezer'a
ehost!
I nseter think them bouz the most
Delishus thtnes 1 ever et,
When rr.other'd lmrry up 'n get
A whole big plateful, crisp 'n brown,
night erly, 'lore the rest wuz down,
N hand mo tlio morlasses Jug,
'N tell mc, with a leetle hug,
Ter clear jjie plato which was my rule
'S siieu I'd cut an' run for school.
N ingin corn! my land! how goodl
I'd (rive a penny ef I cud
Jest sit a orly roastln year
Ter taste like tliem I nseter clear
From shucks n' silk, n' put ter roast
Shaw! them there times they wuz the most
Enjoyable I ever see.
When wo went flshln', Thede 'n' me
'K built a Are ter roast our pike I
'X corn 'n taters 'u the like.
N when it cum ter shortcake, well!
I Jlst halnt eot tbe words ter tell ,
How good I uster think it wux,
When mother done ez mothers does,
'N cut tlie biggest hunk fer mo
Thnt wuz lior favrit uv the three,
'X klvcred up with cood. rich cream
The grate red berries. It don't seem
That berries now Iz big 'n sweet
Ez them that once I useter eat
They halnt a nary one the samel
There's nothln' left but jest the name.
'N yot, 1 note m v yunsters feels
Ez I did onco. Perbap Time steals
1 be taste away, 'n It may be
That all's the same exoeptr me.
AaBB YlEQIHli. CnXBZBTSOV.
COBBKSrOlTOZXCI OT TBI DHrATClH.l
New Yobk, Sept 10. Prince Poniatow
ski remarked the other day In conversa
tion that American girls seemed to him
very artificial that they are "always pos
ing." Now, this opinion. must be regarded
not lightly, in as much as the author of it
has been Newport's most conspicuous beau
this 'season, ior whom all the unmarried
young women of the smart coterie have set
their paps. Certainly it is surprising to
note such a view of Yankee maidens, who
have hitherto maintained so marked a rep
utation for naturalness of demeanor. In
deed, this was judged to be their prime and
distinctive charm, though the Prince of
"Wales thought it carried too far when one
of them dropped a piece of ice down tbe
back of his neck.
The American girl of a generation ago
represented a distinct type physically. But
her delicaoy of physique appears to have
been lost, partly through the adoption of
athletic habits in imitation of the English.
The most famous ladies' tailor in this coun
try told me yesterday that within ten years
the average native born young woman of 20
has become one inch larger in bust measure
and more than one inch bigger aronnd the
hips, as shown by his measurements.
The n-ct of Tennis Playing-.
"Their figures are better developed alto
gether," he said, "and they do not need nor
use so much padding as formerly. I at
tribute the increased measurement about
the hips chiefly tq. tennis playing. Anier
can young ladies have bigger waists than
they used to have, but that is because it is
no longer good form to lace much. Of
course, the corset should compress the fig
ure somewhat, but in tbe best society tight
lacing is ruled against The practice must
go, for the reason that it has been relegated
to persons of inferior station.
"What do I think of the figures of Amer
ican girls? They are charming, of course
But I will say frankly that there are no
figures in the world equal to those of the
English girls. They represent the perfec
tion attained through generations of
healthy living and good exercise. We em
ploy English girls only in our show rooms,
and their figures are the admiration of our
customers. Prench women have well
developed busts, but their legs are too thin.
Thin legs are considered most correct in
Prance. A ballet dancer once told me that
American girls required less padding for
the stage, as to their lower limbs, than
those ot any other nation."
Prettier Arms and Necks.
A great Broadway manufacturer of cor
sets said: "The American girl of to-day
has more1 arms, neck and bust than formerly.
Twenty years ago her arms were apt to be
skinny, and the bones in her neck showed.
To a certain extent these things are true
now, so that it is often remarked that En
glish young women have better necks and
shoulders than those ot this country, though
their faces are not so pretty. The present
style of corsage makes the bust seem high
and the waist as long as possible, the latter
effect being heightened by making the cor
set so as to repress and confine both bust
and hips. One must commend the first
point, which is an improvement on the old
fashion requiring that -the bust should be
low. A low bust is a mark of an Inferior
physical type, as you may observe in many
tribes of savages. In that respect it is like
an over-long waist, which can never prop
erly be considered beautiful. After awhile
we shall see a revolution in the style,
which will demand that the hips shall ap
pear as high as possible, so as to give ap
parent lentrth to the limbs and the most
graceful effects of drapery. Look at the
Greek statues and you will uuderstand
what I mean."
A manufacturer of ladies' shoes on Snane
street said tnat women 'wore larger sizes
than they used to. .
ot Shimon" of Big Shoe.
"It used to be the case that a woman
would never acknowledge wearing a shoe
bigger than a five," he declared. "Dealers
were obliged to mark sevens and eights
down to lower numbers else they could not
sell them. Customers would say that they
could get smaller sizes to .fit them at other
shops and would go elsewhere. Now la ties'
shoes are sold up to nine and the wearers
are not ashamed of them. I don't think
that the female foot has grown bigger, but
that the development of common sense in
dress has brought about the change. "With
in the last hve years it has ceased to be the
fashion for little girls to wear shoes with
high heels. Most of the shoes made for
them nowadays have no heels at all, and
ladies are adopting the same fashion.
Prench heels se;m to be rapidly going out
"Women usually wear low shoes iu sum
mer, though it is claimed that thev enlarge
trie ankles. Vanity about the feet seems to
have diminished of late years. Even the
dandies no longer pinch their toes. Peet in
different parts of the country vary so much
in shape that different forms of lasts have
to be used in manufacturing shoes lor
various sections geographical. It is not
blood, but climate that determines these
matters. In Kentucky, where people have
the smallest feet, the same rule appears to
apply to animals, even the horses being
remarkable for the smallness of their ex
tremities." Women's Hands Are Sm iller.
A manufacturer of gloves on Broadway
made a very - unexpected statement.
Said he: "American women wear
smaller gloves than formerly. We have
been compelled to notice the difference
within the last few years. Ten years ago
we sold very few gloves of sizes 5J and 6,
but now a great part of our trade is in those
sizes. The tendency is to plain gloves, and
the fashions in them change verv little,
whereas they used to alter constantly, often
leavinr a big stock of unsalable goods on
hand."
A fashionable physician of celebrity was
asked to account for the physical improve
ment of the American girl. He said:
"Physical culture is accountable for it all.
On sunny afternoons, when I go driving in
Central Park, I often see as many as 70
young girls playing tennis on one meadow.
To me it is a delightful spectacle, because
these are the mothers of the coming genera
tion. "Womcn,walk nowadays and indulge
in many athletic sports. It is no longer the
fashion for young ladles to be delicate, and
they do not chew slate pencils to give
them what used to be considered a becom
ing and interesting pallor. Unwholesome
girls are not in demand for wives. The
chief danger to be apprehended, in my no
tion, lies in the faot that American lami
lies are ceasing to produce offspring. Now
a days parents who have one or two chil
dren consider that they have contributed
sufficiently to the population. There is every
thing in 'breeding. Look at the wrestlers
of Japan. They and their women have be
longed to an exclusive caste for centuries,
being obliged to Intermarry within it Con
sequently, tbey tower head and shoulders
above the ordinary people of their o wn race.
N o H?auty In the Fonr Hundred.
Anyone who goes out at all iu New York
society can hardly fail to be struck with
the marked absence.ior scarcity, of beauty
in that exelusive circle which'is called the,
400. There are so few really pretty girls
that you could almost count them on the
fingers of one band. "Why should this be
so? Luxnnous habits are doubtless ac
countable for it Pampering in childhood,
with plenty of candy and cake and limited
opportunities for such health-giving exer
cises as youngsters less highly born enjoy,
is not conducive to the most perfect blos
soming of womanhood. Nor arc balls, be
ginning well along toward midnight, and
late suppers calculated to keep the stomach
and liver in good order. Without a first
rate digestion and aproperinternal economy
otherwue.beauty is not Besides, it has been
truthfully remarked that wine-drinking in
the smart set is shockingly prevalent among
women, even with those who are unmarried
and should be restrained from going beyond
a sip or two of champagne.
Here is a true story in point: A young
girl of not more than 22, while on a yacht
ing party one day last summer, took per
ceptibly too much to drink. Everybody
supposed that it was an unfortunate acci
dent. But during the subsequent winter,
ata ball given in a private house, a similar
misadventure happened to her, her condi
tion being such that two young men, who
naa Deen on tne yacatlng party aforesaid,
were obliged to hide her away upstairs,
taking turns at guarding her, so that she
should not escape and make an exhibition
of herself. Of course, however, the story
got around.
Too Hnch Champagne Flows.
There is champagne at dinner parties,
champagne at balls, champagne on the lawn
at ietes champetres always champagne, ac
companied by other tempting drinkables,
with which the young women are plied by
beaux who have more than commonly taken
more ot the same than was good for them.
Any observant person who will take notice
of the fashionable women on coaches at the
races or on festive occasions at Newport
will remark that they quite usually exhibit
symptoms of having partaken too freely
from the bottles that are kept continually
popping. What wonder that young married
women have frequently to powder their
noses.
Do women dress to please the men or to
satisfy the criticism of other women? That
is a much-mooted question, and probably it
will never be decided. Presumably it is
somewhat of both. General condemnation
will not kill a fashion. Tbe men all laughed
the "Grecian bend" to scorn, but the style
ran its course. Thev made unlimited fun of
the ugly masses of Zulu hair called "chig
nons" which women fastened on their heads
a while ago, but they held their own.
Bustles, likewise, notwithstanding the ridi
cule ot the comic papers, and similarly with
the new fangled suspenders tor females.
But, though men may make fun of women'a
fashions in the abstract, they encourage
them in the concrete. Is not every man par
ticular and even anxious that his woman
kind shall be dressed according to the fash
ion? Stockings the Fair Ones Wear.
A great manufacturer of women's stock
ings told the writer that . these artioles of
apparel were sold now in the same sizes as
hitherto. "Without going further into the
discussion of so delicate a subject tbe infer
ence to be drawn may be left to the reader.
It is stated, and probably with truth, that
the average American girl of to-day is taller
than 20 years ago; furthermore, that the
girls of the Eastern States are bigger than
those of the West, bo that one often sees
them looking down upon their partners in
the dance. After all there need be no hesi
tation felt in speaking of the clothing for
the nether female limbs, even though it
were of garters, inasmuch as women are no
longer ashamed of having legs. Do not the
new-fashioned gowns exhibit them almost
as plainly as if the wearers had on tights?
There has been a revolution in thinking
as to this point within the last generation,
and grandmothers' nowadays vainly try to
convince their granddaughters that they
should always sit with their feet close
together'on the floor, so as to convey an im
pression that they are built solid from the
ground up, like the ladles of Noah's family
who come in toy arks.
"When the fin-dc-siecle American girl sits
down at the table, she eats a hearty meal,
not being ashamed to have an appetite, like
Lord Dundreary's young lady, who ate
nothing to speak of in public and gorged
herself in private. This is another matter
in which ideas formerly accepted have been
overthrown. If the Yankee young woman
has grown one inch in bust measure in the
loat ten years and over an inch around the
hips, to what proportions will she have at
tained a century hence, her feet becoming
steadily more sensible in size and her hands
smaller? , Rene Baciie.
NEW ADVERTISEMENTS jr W
THE LUEEST UNO LEADING MILLINERY IDDSfll WESlr,
IL
.
Always redeem
ing; our published
promiaesTto the very
letter, offering for
sals tha highest
class of merchan
dise In all the va
rious departments
at much LOWEB -
A
PAliles PossiliiBS
.&i
jg
pPTrttpa. Vidv.T
-..wu.Ji iui; .
else?)
where, constantly
Keeping these big
stores crowded with
thrifty, economical
well pleased, znoneyj
saving buyers. Nol
dull trade here froio
one year's end
another.
Actualities
TDBNI&' 1)E COKNDEKi
lwikn-riN tob the msrATCH.!
Wen drlhin down de road in style,
Dj mos' ob men hablern
Dat w en dey reach a cornder sharp,
Taint bca' ton quick ter turn.
Dey cotter slack dey pace able,
An' tck n rUht big sweep,
Er lov may run 'sin sumpn' dat
'LI Ian,' 'em In a heap.
Same way along dis road ob life,
We meets wid sudden turns.
An' don, ter slack dote go-carta np
De men dat's wise dey larns,
An' tnrnin' 'ronn' de cornden sharp,
Dey bettor tok big sweep,
Er dey miy i un 'gin .sumpn' dat
'IA lan 'em in a heap.
I'se cum a right good ways, mysef,
An' dls am my advice.
Des' git long fas' wen yu kin see
De road am straight an' nice,
Hut wen vu reach a cornder sharp,
Yu slack, an' tok big sweep,
Erytt may run 'gin sumpn' dat
'III lan' yu in a heap.
Aids VinoraiA Ccxbebtsoit.
pffWCts
yy delicious
FtaYoriwi
itrad
NATURAL FRUIT FLAVORS.
Of perfect purity.
Of great strength.
Economy in their use
Flavor as delicately
Yanllla"
Lemon
Orange
Almond
Rose etc
1
end dellclously as the fresh fruit.
ITor sale by Geo. E. Stevenson & Co.. andaU
first-lass grocers.
The probabilities and possibilities attainable and unattainable by the sons of men, in
their varied pilgrimages throughout this terrestrial ball, are often amusing, sometimes
laughable, always Interesting! It's in the list of probabilities that every native bora
male, of this free and enlightened land, can and may aspire to the high and honorable
position of President of the biggest and greatest country the sun ever shone upon. Bat
then possibility steps in and says, only one out of the many millions of voters can attain
to that noble and exalted position. It's also very probable that a dozen young men may
be after the same girt, each of them vielng with the other in their prodigality of money,
buggy rides, ice cream, candies and so on ad libitum, but after all it's only possible for.
one to acquire sole possession; the only satisfaction the other fellows can have is to get
behind a fence and kick themselves for their unproductive lavishnessl It's also quite
probable (and in this case, pardonable) that others may try to sell good goods as cheap as
Danziger's. Possibility to the rescue agun, shouting in thunder tones: Stand back, let
the crowds come forward! There's only one Danziger's, and theysell better goods for less
money than anywhere else.
It Has Been Moved, Seconded and Carried
by Universal Acclamation That Our
New Fall and Winter Wraps
Have the Floor Now.
In former years this most popular department has always been in the very front rank
of public favor among the cash buying citizens of "Western Pennsylvania and surrounding
States. "We intend retaining and maintaining this enviable position by the same old,
simple, honest methods, "offering for your criticism aud inspection nothing but best of
their kind in the various materials, newest styles, best make and fit; last, but not least,
lower prices than elsewhere.
Every Desirable Style of This Season's Con
ception, the Different Patterns and
Materials, Too, Come in Almost
Endless Variety.
New Watteau Plait Reefers, New Russian Reefers, New Fur-Trimmed
Reefers, New Plain Reefers, all lengths, for short or tall, thin or stout;
lengths run from 28 to 40 inches. Then our prices; well, it's just like this: -If
we don't save you from $2 to $10 on every garment, why, then we won't
expect your trade. We're also ready for the dear children with New
Gretchens, New Reefers, and New Norfolk Jackets.
Our Boys' Department is meeting with far past extraordinary success;
still, there's small wonder, either, Boys' Suits and Pants being sold all day
long and every day in the Week at about one-half usual prices.
X
Handkerchief Layout, and They're Regu-i.
"lar Pocket Book Ticklers, You Bet.
300 dozen Ladies' very fine, Pare Linen, prettily and neatly Hemstitched 15c Hand
kerchiefs ' Now 3 for 25a
100 dozen Ladies' Beautiful and .Richly Embroidered 25o Handkerchiefs have been
cleared to Bell now for 15c each.
280 dozen Ladies' Extra and Treble Extra Fine Chastely Embroidered, nicely Hem
ctltchrd and charmini?lv ScalloDed Edze 50c to SI Handkerchiefs
Now for 2ia and 49c each.
Gents' very fine Large Size 13c Handkerchiefs; COO dozen of them to sell
Now 3 for 25a
Mothers, in this go-aheadative best patronized department of its kind west of the
mountains, you'll find the handsomest, most stylish, cutest, nattiest, prettiest, richest and
by very long odds the bigsest stock ot Infants' and Children's "White and Colored Eich
Silk Caps, also, without fear of contradiction, at prices very much lower thari. elsewhere.
Elegancies in Children's Aprons, Ladies',
Cheviot Skirts Regular Prize Bargains.
A mott magnificently grand exposition of Children's fine, finer on up to very finest
cambric, lawn and checked Nainsook Aprons, beautifully trimmed wlthdainty, handsome
laces, elegant Hamburg and rich Swiss embroideries; they come in all sizes from 1 to 7.
As usual, we'll save you monev; the prices'il vary Prom 21c. to 81.59 each.
Several hundreds of very pretty plain and striped Cheviot and Seersucker 75c, SLOO
and 81.25 Skirts to close Now for 59c, 69c and 74c each.
Men's Furnishings and Ladies' Underwear.
. High Price Tantalizers They Be.
A lot ofSLOO fine Dress Shirts
Now for 74c eaoh.
81.50 custom-made fine Dress Shirts, long
and short bosom, Now for 99c each.
8Z00 better Shirts, with richly embroid
ered bosom. Now for 5L21 each.
Men's 75c merino Shirts or Drawers
Now for 49c each.
Men's 85c, 8L0O and 81.25 medium weight
Underwear Now for 69c, 79c and 98c each.
Men's 81.10, 81.25 and 5L50 Sanitary
Wool Underwear
Now. for 89c, 99o and 8L24 each.
Men's 81.25, 5L50 and 81.85 camel's hair
Underwear -.a .
Now for 99c, 5L24 and 5L49 each.
Boys' 75c and 81.00 Wai'ts, with patent
belt, Now for 49c and 74c each.
Ladles' extra good 75c merino Underwear,
either with long or short sleeves, .- s
Now for 49a each.
Ladies' 50c heavy ribbed Vests or Pants
Now for 39c each.
Lidies' ?L25 and 82.00 pure silk Vests
Now for 69c and 99c etch.
An
Exposition
Of Fine Wall Papers
and Mouldings open
now and continues all
the year. Come and
see. Prices always
moderate.
Ie Triile & Go,,
Sixth' and Wood St.,
PITTSBURG.
S10M
Basement Sluggers, Softer Snaps for You
We've got an even thousand of real pretty half-dollar "Work Baskets to be distributed
And if vou're after a good every-day use, all-around Tumblers for little money, 1,000
4c ones
Now for 2c each.
Or maybe you want a few nice Tooth Pick Holders; about 5,000 pretty 10c colored glass
Then here's another very necessary article when laundrying, 5c bottles of Liquid
Bluing , , ,wor '
You all want to keep your tinware, knives, forks, spoons, etc.. in a bright and beau
tiful condition. Beit thing in the world for this purpose is Brooks Crystal bodp.
"We'll sell you eight of these 5c cakes for 25a
1,000 extra heavy tin 50c Dish Pans, and all made in one piece at that,
' J ' Now for 24o each.
There's also a most elegant lot of quarter-dollar beautifully decorated China Bowls
Now for 14o each.
350 very handsomely and artistically decorated half-dollar China OysteKPlates
We'll throw out a couple casks 25o Japanese, square China Plates, prettily decorated,
' JMow lor lie each.
And we'll wind up with a phenomenal fizzer in Tea Kettles. We've,
secured just one carload of Nos. 7, 8 and 9 Iron tea Kettles, enamel lined
They're the very same kettles vou always pay 90c for, and what are wel
eoineto sell them for? vou ask. Well, we never do anything by halves. A;
B I R R Off they go now for 34c-each.i
ALWAYS
THE -CHEAPEST.
SIXTH ST. -g
AND
PENN MB
teMS -
A-
-, ''.