THE PITTSBURG DISPATCH, SUNDAY. JOLT 81. 1891
IT'S A LOST CAUSE
Dress Beform Has Been and
Ever "Will Be Yanpished
by Dame Fashion.
APPEABAffCES AEE EIEST
In the Pretty Head of the Woman of
the End of the Centnry.
AXD GIRLS ARE KOT DTEJG OFF,
In Spite of the Chautanrjua Terdict Apalnst
Corsets, Etc
FAMOUS BHRIT3 SLATES
TO ..STILE
8
pron-mr ron thi oigrATcn.i
All of the preaching and praying and
goings on of the dress reformer! at all of the
Chautauquas on the continent will amount
to little or nothing, unless their ideas are
indorsed by "the fashion." After the re
vival last year at Chautauqua, and the
growth in grace and the change of heart
there announced to hare taken place, it may
have been supposed that good women would
cease to wipe np the streets with their
skirts, or carry them as an ungraceful load
in their hands.
But have they?
Xct at alL The train still triumphs. The
finest silks, Ihe divinest brocades, the
richest materials of all kinds are still made
up in the style to gather up the dust, to
wipe up the tobacco juice, and to secure a
gord stock of disease germs at the decree of
lashion. The good old girls, who tell ps
how vain are ail things here below, stjU
come to church and prayer meeting H trail
ing gowns that are pronounced unhealthy,
and petticoats that are held by the reformers
to be barbarous and destructive of alt that
is beautiJul in the lorm of a woman. These
good. Christian teachers still wear the un
holy corset that villainous invention
which, as we are told by Frances Willard,
sends countless lo ely women to the tomb.
They Fore" Abrat Example.
Arrayed in all their fripperies of high
sleeves," empire waists, bell skirts, aud dust
pan tails, how do they expect that their
precepts as to the cultivation of simplicity
of attire and the graces ot the soul are to
overweigh the power of their example? The
teacher of a Bible class of girls presented
about as amusing a picture as can well be
imagined in her innocence and apparent ig
norance ot herown inconsistency. Whether
she imagined she was a creature of auotber
sphere, or so lar removed irom tiiosc sne
addressed as to be an exception to her own
teachings, is hard to tell. The richness of
tbe ridiculous situation was that she, with
diamonds in her ears, false, fluffy bangs, a
great, bent-up Leghorn hat, loaded ith
ribbons and flouers, tight corsets, trailing
bell skirt, high-heeled shoes, tight-fitting
gloves, with all the flying ribbons and little
additions thr.t go to the making up of great
style, was talking to her Sunday schoolgirls
cliout the vanities of this world, and urging
them to give themselves over to a cultiva
tion oi the graces ot meekness and a quiet
cpint to study the Bible as a rule of life,
aud to make sure that to gain heaven, at
the sacrifice of earthly joys, was something
lor which all should most especially strive.
"Whether the demure girls under her tongue
saw the point or not is not known, but
nothing is snrer than that her teaching
would be of no effect so far as inducing them
to adjure fashion by casting off corsets,
wearing no bangs, or adorning themselves
alter the manner of mere worldlings was
concerned.
An Orator in Fins Tnzg'Tj.
"Great goodness, what can that creature
dolor the advancement of women with such
clothes on?" said a plain up-and-down coun
try delegate at the recent convention of the
Federation of "Woman Clubs in Chicago,
as a lady, elegantly attired in pale lavender
silk trimmed with rich point luce, advanced
to the irout of the platlorm and calmly
gazed upon the crowd that filled the Opera
House. The country delegate was consider
ably taken down when that beautiful gray
fcaiied woman in her rich attire, set off by
costly diamonds, made one of the very
best speeches of the occasion, which is
saying a good deal. A woman withont
cornets, with a Dutch waist after the
Venus of Milo pattern, with her hair
combed straight back like Amelia Ed
ward?, or plastered plainly down like the
veriest Quaker, and arrayed in a black al
paca gouu with straight gathered-all-around
short skirt guiltless ot ruffle or flouuee.
could have been no more magnetic or elo
quent. It is not tbe dress, but the woman that is
in it, it should be remembered.
Great vloinrn Mates to .Fashion.
In the days of Elizabeth of England it
was the fashion to wear wigs. The great
Queen, it is said, had eighty curled wigs to
keep hergoins. She wore buckram "stavs"
that, compared with the flexible corsets of
to-day, would appear like a suit of armor.
Htr dresses were innumerable, her ruffs
tremendous. She had a love for jewels,
but she had the heart of a king, the talents
of a great statesman, aud the courage and
capacity which made her the greatest
queen of Christendom.
Mary Stuart, too, wore the stiff stays of
her day, but it was the axe that killed her,
and not her corsets. In spite of them, and
the French fashions, she was strong and
vigorous. "Her frame," savs Green, "was
ot iron she was incapable of fatigue; she
galloped 99 miles alter her last defeat with
out a pause, save to change horses." "With
the stalwart women ot England in view,
wlso lrom that day down have worn corsets
and still wear them, the dress-reformers
should be a little more chary in denouncing
them so extremely. Corspts for a cause may
fill the graveyards, as they say, but it is
none the less certain that there are still
plenty of women left who wear them, and
strom; healthy women at that. Fools there
are always with us iu galore, and those of
them who choose to lace themselves in until
good for nothing but to be laid away in the
cold, cold ground why the world is all the
better without them.
rstshlon Stroncer Than Beaton.
That the fight against fashion will be a
losing one is the testimony ot history. An
appeal to common sense goes lor nothing
where fashion is concerned The virtue of
self-sacrifice is hardly recognized if it in
volves an attire out of style. One of the
objections urged against women nurses in
the hospital in Wasuington during the Civil
War was tnat many ot them were capable
of any heroism, save that of giving np their
hoops. The patriotic women who rushed to
the front to aid in nursing found the nuns
preferred on the score ot their dress. It is
a matter of comfort that there has been an
advancement in this respect since the uni
form ol a trained burse is inexorably pre
scribed by as absolute rule, as that ot a uni
form for railroad employes or fire and
police departments.
The crusade a;ainst the "big hat" by all
the power of the press on the continent, the
forces ot ridicule, the appeals to conscience,
was powerless against the mysterious god
ot fashion which made it the style.
In Addison's day the war was waged
against hoops without avail. The Spectator
was full of chapters against them. Punch
poked pictures at them in vain. The world
growled over them from end to end, but not
until a decree of fashion pronounced them
old and gone out, we ther given up. When
brought into vogue naiu by Eugenie of
Franco the same howl was raised the world
over, but with as little effect, until Sara
Bernhart brought lankness into style.
IhcK-ason for tlin High Collar.
The Princess of "Wales has a lean, long,
cragcy neck, hence high choking collars
for all women. The collars will last prob
ably until she goes out. The "Langtry
bang" has withstood all the powers ot ridi
cule, exhausted all the resources of satire
and caricature, and defied all Ihe denuncia
tions of the pious brethren, bnt it still
Quffily waves, notwithstanding the effects
of some to re-establish the "Pompadour."
The skirts of -a year or two ago which
cleared the ground have gone back to the
trailers and street sweepers at the behest of
Fashion.
"No woman wants to look like a dowdy
and make herself ridiculous by being out of
the fashion," said one woman to another as
she passed through the Union station.
"There," she exclaimed, pointing out a
Norwegian emigrant. "There is the ideal
costume as described by the dress-reformers
at Chautauqua. No corsets, the Venus
waist or rather no waist short skirts, no
high heels, no high chok
ing band, perfect freedom in
motion. What does she look like?
Picturesque? Trnly. Bnt what would I
look like in that costume eoing down Fifth
avenue? More comfortable? Certainly. I
just envy her that short dark blue skirt,
but I could no more face the world in that
style than could a man go down to business
in his bathing suit."
The Mn are Rlavos, Too.
Nor are men in the main any mow Inde
pendent of the all powerful god .who, in the
darkness of rcvstery, arranges what a man
shall wear to look right The height of his
hat, the width of his trousers, the length ot
his coat tails, the cut of his vest, are laid
down with the force of the Ten Command
ments. President Harrison would not have
the courage to walk out of the "White
House in his grandfather's hat James G.
Blaine, with all his great mind, could
hardly be induced to appear in public in
the queer cut coat, high black satin stocks,
and huge white collar up to his ears in
which Henry Clay appeared so distin
guished and elegant When Daniel Web
ster "got himself up" in the way of attire
to appear in the Senate to make his cele
brated speech in reply to General Hayne,
of South Carolina, he wore "a blue dress
coat with brass buttons, a buff waistcoat,
and a high white cravat" Imagine Cam
eron, or Quay, or Carlisle, or Vest in such
a rig nowadays, handsome as it was! The
laugh would go round the world, because it
is out of style. Iu days agone
in "Washington Congressmen wore green
and blue, aud mulberry colored coats in the
evening two or three waistcoats of differ
ent colors, ruffled shirts, high stock, knee
breeches, and silk stockings. A load of
dangling seals were also flourished. Their
hair was arranged in what is known as a
"roach." They must have looked "real
sweet" But such fashion has gone by.
But who knows that it may not come up
acain? -The women are getting back to
Marie Antoinette aud Josephine styles, so
it would not be surprising if by a caprice
of Fashion, men should be called upon to
array themselves after the pattern of Napo
leon Bonaparte or George "Washington.
Bessie Bramble.
MANY JA.EB IN THE WALLS.
A Strange Feature Explained Abont Sorns
Anctnnt English Churches.
St Lionli Globe-Democrat
One of the most singular features of the
older churches in England and "Western
Europe is the presence in the walls of large
numbers of jars. They are imbedded in
the masonry, with the neck turned toward
the interior of the church and the mouth
opening into the audience room.
For a long time the openings were sup
posed to be holes in the walls, but a closer
examination, a num ber of years ago, on one
or two of these old buildings, disclosed the
fact that the openings were the necks of
jugs, and led to no little speculation as to
why they had been placed there. All old
churches that is to say, churches erected
from the eleventh to the seventeenth cent
uries have them, and in some they are
present in great numbers. A church iu
Leeds, England, has over 60, while this
number is considerably exceeded in same ot
the old French churches, nearly 200 having
been counted in the Cathedral of Angoa
lcmc, in France.
' The explanation of their presence is easy.
They were placed in the walls with a view
to bettering the accouaic properties, of the
building. The idea is as old as Vitruvius,
who, in a Work on the Boman theater, ad
vises that earthenware jars be placed in the
walls for the purpose ot increasing the reso
nance of the building. In several Boman
structures such jugs have been 4bund, used
in the way afterward adopted by the archi
tects of the Middle Ages. As to the
efficiency of the device, its employment is
open to question. For increasing the
acoustic properties of the rooms the jugs are
probably useless, but no one can certainly
say that they are so until the experiment
has been tried ot constructing two rooms,
with jugs in the walls ot one and the walls
of the other solid. A test made under these
conditions would determine the question
which otherwise must remain unsettled.
A FISH AS A MOTHER.
One of tho Finny Tribe Buttles Bravely
for Her Youngsters.
Mr. Gunther, in his valuable work on
"Ihe Study of Fishes," states that the only
species of the fish in which the mother
takes any care of her offspring are of the
genera AsjireJo and Solenustoma, says a
writer in the Chicago Tribune. But I have
seen the common catfish guarding her
young in the most devoted manner; it may,
However, been the male, but I don't be
lieve it
It was in Jnly, 1R82, and I was on the
west shore of Long Lake, in the great north
ern wilderness ot New York State. The
catfish had got her young (50 or 60 in the
school I should say 'into a little bay so
shallow thai her enemies could not swim
in it The yonugcatfishes were verv small in
deed, and looked ULe little tadpoles. When
ever any one of the little fellows ventured
into a deepish plnce he was sure to be seized
by some large fish the large fish seemed to
be perch, and there were half a dozen or so
of them. Every perch that came near was
attacked by the mother-fish and driven back
several feet or yards, but whenever the
mother fish tnrned to go back to her young,
one or more of the perch would bite her.
Hrr caudal fin, or tail, was torn in pieces.
I watched the battle for some time. The
old catfish was getting the worst of it, and
when I left she was making a brave but
losing fight One by one her offspring were
picked off, the perch occasionally rnshiug
into the shallow water close to the school ot
young fishes. I do not know whether my
observation is the only one of the kind
or not
LANDING A BLACK BASS.
Ton Unit Constantly Vlatrh Its Movements
Tlirouch the Iilne.
"When a black bass it hooked, the only
way you can judge of his movements and
intentions is by the sense of feeling exerted
through the ro d and line, and by watching
the line at its point of contact with the sur
face of the water from which point never
remove your eye until he is brought salely
to bag," says Charles Frederick Danforth
in the July JVt England Magazine.
"He will resort to every means in bis
power to get rid of the remorseless steel,
sometimes breaking waterfour or five times.
When a fish is seen to be making pell-mell
for the surface, and is bound to get there no
matter what happens, he can often, be
checked, just before he breaks water, bv
moving the rod quickly aud stealily to the
right or left, keeping a taut line, of
course, all the while; but, should this not'
succeed and he breaks water in spiteot you,
lower the point of the rod a little, other
wise it ma be smashed. Care must be
taken in this, in order that he may not
throw his weight and bring the whole force
ot his jump to bear on the straight taut line
or fall back on the taut line either ot
which is extremely liable to produce the
result spokeu of. II you get a strike when
trolling, keep the line taut and the boat in
motion, slackening its speed somewhat, of
course; for give him but a few inches of
slack, and np 'he goes into the air like a
rocket and Is gone."
ANALL-ROUNDGENIUS.
She Runs a Cattle Ranch, a Silver
Mine and a Hospitable Home.
THET CALL HER A CATTLE QUEEN.
Cn Pick Out a "loree Thief in a Ciwd Ij
Mi Face and His Manner.
WITHAL SHE'S A CULT1YATID WOMAN
ICORRMrOlTDIKCX OF TRZ DISPATCH.
"White Oaks, N. M., Julv 28.
CATTLE QUEEN!
f? That is what Eastern
&i
people love to call
the independent
ranch - woman who
takes upon her slend-
den too heavy for
any but the strong
est man to carry
successfully. The
phrase calls up
visions of a dashing
Amazon in cow-girC
toggery, riding a
snorting bronco for
the Cattle Queen's
throne must certain
ly be the- saddle.
Now I have recently
met a Cattle Queen,
and, while I do not
think the title in
any way above her deserts, my ideas are
somewhat modified as to the manner of her
royalty.
A dozen miles from "White Oaks is the
ranch of Mrs. Barber. You might meet
Mrs. Barber at her house in "White Oaks,
where she spends a portion of her time, and
where she dispenses very graceful hospital
ity; but if you want to see the "Cattle
MRS. BARBER, THE
Queen" you have heard so much about, yon
will go ten or twelve miles out over the
dusty road, under the all-too-ardent New
Mexican sun, to meet her upon her own
ground, amid her appropriate surroundings,
on the Three Elvers ranch.
The StroofjColorf -ortho Orient.
Every view here in New Mexico takes
the form of an aquarelle, from the band of a
master who is fond of washing in strong
primary tints, and the low, white-walled
rauch house smothered in gay blooming
vines and flowers, with its great, deep green
cottonwoods about it, and the glowing,
speckless blue sky above it, is a picture
almost Japanese in its gay, unshaded vivid
ness. It, and everything about it, and the pros
perity that supports it, are the creation of
Mrs. Barber's strong, slender fingers, and
her alert, active brain. An almost girlish
figure she is, with handsome dark hair, a
pair of great black eyes under full heavy
lids, a mouth that reveals a flashing row of
white teeth when she smiles which is not
unfrequeutly, for she has all the good fel
lowship, and good-natured liberality of a
man and a "Westerni man at that along
with the tender heart, quick sympathies
and intuitions of her sex. She sings charm
ingly, and is fond of her piano and guitar,
though she complains that the hands that
drive a lively team and hold the rein on an
enthusiastic saddle pony, for thousands of
miles yearly, which are liable to handle all
sorts of tools and implements, from a very
small needle or a delicate water color brush,
to an adz, a saw or a jack plane, will be a
little clumsy and "bronco sometimes at
corrallingthe guitar stringsor "cuttingout"
the ivory keys.
Her Hnband Murdered Before Her Eyes.
Mrs. Barber came to Lincoln county, a
very young bride, in 1874-which gives the
inquisitive minded and arithmetically in
clined a conjectural sum in addition by
which to fix upon her present age. She
has been twice married, her first husband,
Mr. McSwayne, having been murdered be
fore her eyes in that ' bloody struggle be
tween law-abiding citizens, corrupt officials
and horse and cattle thieves, which is known
in the history ot New Mexico as the Lin
coln county war.
In that desperate time her house was
burned from over her head and she went
through such heart-breaking aud horrifving
experiences, aud endured such hardships
and anguish of mind as would have cowed
the spirit of most women, and sent them,
old and broken before their time, to fiuish
the remnant of their days as .pitiiul de
pendants in the homes ot relatives. But
she was made of sterner and braver stuff",
and in '83 widowed and thrown entirely
upon her own resources, -she come to White
Oaks and embarked in cattle ranching. It
was in that year the pretty white-walled
ranch bouse was built, and its construction
was most unique. "We often hear it said
that woman is the builder of the home, and
Mrs. Barber is a home-builder in a literal
sense, as the skilled work on this house was
done mostly with her own small hands.
Help was very hard to get none but Mexi
can labor could be obtained; she had the
choice between their clumsy work aud her
own, and she chose the latter.
Made Htr House VMIh Her Own Hands.
The house is built on the plan of a Mexi
can jscal, of upright poles set close together,
plastered on the outside with adobe, having
an adobe roof, and being plastered inside
and finished with a coat of gypsum, as
white and hanl and(smooth as plaster .of
Paris. Mrs. Barber laid every floor", hung
every door, made every do6r-casmg, and, in
short, was the only carpenter employed on
the house the Mexicans being only rude
helpers and when it was finished she gath
ered within it; as her means permitted and
opportunity served, all tbe softness and re
finements a womau loves to surround her
self with pretty carpets, rich curtains and
hangings, books, pictures, music, dainty
china and silver.
The ranch itself lies at the foot of the
White Mountains, out from which flows
the Three Rivers, running directly through
the ranch "and losing itself 'away to the
southwest in the wonderful shirting sands.
It is an unfailing supply for Irrigation and
there are fields green with corn, oats, and
alfilfa; a vineyard, an orchard, a garden,
making the house very different from the
run of bare, hot, dustv ranch houses In
plain countries.
Tbe range is general here in New Mexico,
not under tence, as it is in Texas, and to se
cure a certain amount of pasturage it Is
only necessary to own the watering places,
mountain springs and. streams. The rang
thus controlled by the Three Rivers ranch
is very large, and the books show about
8,000 cattle belonging to the company; some
of these beinrfat pasture in the- Texas Pan-
nanaie ana some in juuisas.
Her Kemarkable Judgment of Men.
Mrs. Barber has two non-resident part
ners. They both live in Milwaukee, but
she is managernaa she was the originator of
the entire enterprise, having acqnired the
Iiroperty in the beginning by taking the
and up directly, or purchasing from
settlers. It' is she who buys, sells, ships
and transfers the cattle from one State to
another.
She selects, employs and controls her men
with unerring instinct and discrimination,
and says she has never yet found herself
burdened or troubled with a "bad man," a
shirk, scamp or weakling of her own choos
ing and employing. Her instinct and
judgment are as quick and unlailing in the
matter of four-footed cattle as they are
with the two-footed sort, and she yearly
buys and sells a large number of the former
for other parties.
It has seemed to me that aside from the
strong heart that refused to be crushed or
broken, the high indomitable spirit and
powerful will ot the woman, Mrs. Barber's
remarkable personnl success is due to her
rapid and unerring judgment of men, which
is almost a divination. She reads a face
and bearing like print, and knows a scamp,
a sneak or an untrustworthy man as surely
as the wonderful dog in the good little
stories. Apropos of this faculty, she
said to me laughingly: "I was sitting in a
hotel parlor once talking to a lady whose
acquaintance I had made on the train,
when a well dressed man came in and sit
ting down near her began to talk to her
aside. I withdrew a little, and idly, from
force of habit, began to study. Ins face.
'Well,' said 1, to myself, 'you look like a
horse thief. Yes, you'd steal horses; you
could murder, too, if it became necessary.'
He went out presently, and the lady turned
to me and said: 'I don't know what he
wanted to come talking to me for, I don't
know any good of him. He came down to
in thVsame stage, with officers, to be
'f-'sttfJ
CATTLE QUEEW.
tried for horse stealing. He's got off w
Yes,' said I, 'but he's guilty.'
She Knns a silver Mine, Too.
A year or so ago when there was a special
stir over mines and mining interests in New
Mexico, Mrs. Barber was infected with the
fever. A- sort of outfit or procession,
familiarly seen about in the "White Moun
tains to the south of Three Rivers, con
sisted of Mrs. Barber on her red roan ponv,
Bucephalus, with Pompey, her factotum,
trotting along behind on whatever sort of
quadruped could be caught up.
She is a skillful and intelligent pros
pector, and can instruct you in a most prac
tical and scientific way upon "leads,"
"contacts." etc.. eta
She prospected all down through the
Rinconada country in the "White Moun
tains, where her outfit and cattle then were,
but it was up nearer the ranch, only seven
miles distant from it, that she finally found
the rich and valuable silver mine of" which
she now owns a half interest, the other half
being held by several prominent capitalists.
Mrs. Barber says she doesn't care to vote,
and isn't interested in "Woman's Rights,
but she is herself a most powerful argument
in their favor.
She entertains very handsomely at her
house in "White Oaks; gives progressive
whist and euchre parties, little dances and
occasionally a german; and it seems to me
that a woman who can run a ranch, manage
a mine and engineer a successful german is
fairly entitled to the designation of an all
round genius.
Alice MacGowak;
AN OLD EXPRESSION EXPLAINED.
Oil on Tronbled Water Was First Thought
to Be a Miracle.
Boston Herald.
The idea contained in the expression
"pouring oil on troubled waters," has been
traced as far back as Pliny (A D. 23-79),
who speaks in his "Natural History" of the
results of pouring oil on a stormy sea. Mr.
David E. Stone, of the New York Journal
of Commerce, found an interesting account of
the phenomenon in Bede's "Ecclesiastical
History" (book 3, chapter 15), written in
Latin more than 1,100 years ago (from 716
to 731 A. D.)
"Ihe venerable Bede is speaking of
Bishop Aidan, who was permitted to work
miracles," he says: "A priest called Vtta
(Utta) was sent into Kent to fetcn Eanflede,
King Edwine's daughter, who was to be
married to King Oswirra. He was to go by
land but to return by water. Before he de
parted Vtta visited the Bishop and besought
his prayers for a prosperous jonrney. The
Bishop blessed him, and predicting for his
return a great tempest and a contrary wind
that should rise suddenly, gave him a pot of
oil, saying:
" 'Remember that you cast into the sea this
oyle that I give you, and anon, the winds
being laied, comfortable f aver weather Shall
ensue on the sea, which shall send you
again e with as pleasant a passage as you
have wished.'
"The tempest came as predicted, the
sailors essayed to cast 'ancnr' in vain, the
water began 4o fill the ship, and 'nothing
but present death was looked for.' At the
near approach of death came the thought
of the Bishop and the pot of oil. Taking
it into his hand the priest cast the oil into
the sea, when, as if by magic, it became
quiet and calm, and the ship was deliv
ered." The Latest In Explosives.
Herculite, a new French explosive, is a
yellowish gray powder, composed ot saw
dust, camphor, nitrate of potash, and sev
eral substances that are kept secret It
cannot be fired by sparks, flame, or detona
tion. At a trial, a half-pound charge of
the compound was inserted in ablast hole,
about four feet in depth, tamped with sand
and earth, and fired by a special igniter.
A block of stone about 30 tons was dis
placed. Capture of a Sej Turtle.
A South American sea turtle weiching 80
ponnds was captured a tew days ago off the
coas't of Massachusetts. The turtle is very
common in Southern waters, but is very
seldom seen in the North. This is the first
one ot the species ever taken along this
coast, and -the fishermen say that it must
have struck in a northern enrrent and came
North by mistake.
GOWNSFORTHECOURT.
What the Belles Who Flaj Lawn Ten
nis Array Temselres In.
BED, NATY BLUE AND STRIPES 60.
The Saucy- Siring-Siring That Keepi the
Skirt Off the Ground.
COSTUMES FOB THE BICYCLE GIRL
rCOBBISPOJTDEKCI OT THE DISrATCTT.l
New York, July 30. The girl who does
not play tennis may as well die, or, worse
still, make up her mind to being an old
maid. She is more of a. wall flower than
the girl who does not dance the german.
From the famous arena of the Fewport ten
nis courts, where every summer exciting
struggles for tbe championship are fought
and won in the pressure of a patrician
crowd, to the ivy-clad slopes of the Hud
ion and velvety Lenox lawns, tennis is the
port of tbe season. ,
And not a day goes by that the game it
not mixed up with the game of love. Cupid
just revels in the opportunities afforded by
secluded groups of palms, orchid filled
greenhouses, graperies galore and vine
sheltered arbors. "Why always is every
rustic seat and bench filled with interested
spectators, if it is not to catch a glimpse of
the comedy and tragedy of fashionable life,
sure to be carried on within the limiti of
an aristocratic tennis court?
Tennis and Tea Go Together.
This season tennis and tea have joined
hands. The tea table stands close by the
court end when the afternoon shadows be
gin to deepen, or the players pause from
sheer fatigue after a most exciting game,
then what more tempting than the cup of
tea poured by fair hands or the shreds of
bread and butter served on the rackets as
waiters? It is a gay scene, all light, color
and sparkle.
Quite the belle of a tennis club at Tarry-town-on-the-Hudson,
is a Miss Lee, an
ideal blonde, with an abundance of rippling,
sunny hafr. Her suit this year is very
dainty. It Is a dark blue diagonal serge
bell skirt, with a striped shirt waist in
li;ht blue and white. Her jacket, or rather
her coat, is an Eton in soft crinkley white
crepon, with its wide revers iace'd with
white surah. A new and exceedingly
pretty feature are her cuffs of silk to match
the shirt waist, which are quite deep,
finished with a frill and worn outside of
jacket sleeves. Her cap is a soft blue and
white tennis cap. She wears white shoes
tied with blue ribbons.
A Vision In Bright Bed.
By all odds the dashing tennis suit of the
season is the bright red serge, which has its
long jacket and skirt ot plain rich red, un
relieved by any other color, except the
creamy tint of the silken shirt waist. If
added to such a suit, tbe wearer chooses a
reu straw sailor irumueu wnu a reu quiti
pompon on one side of crown, out of which
darts a r;d aigrette, then this daring maid
looks as much like an imp of Satan as any
one could. It is effective in the lawn and is
generally worn by the girl, who would not
hesitate to bet oti her favorite horse at the
race, or flirt with her dearest friend's sweet
heart More often this glaring red is broken
by a cream stripe, with a while belt, plain
white cap and white shoes, tied with red
ribbons.
Girls with plenty of money go for Red
fern's novelties, which are made of serge,
homespun, sacking or tweed, and which are
lined as a rule with shot taffetas in gay
colors, as for example a suit of navy blue
serge is lined throughout with blue and
pink shot silk. The sacking spoken of is a
woven wool fabric of lighter weight than
serge. Running in the other day for
Iiointers, I noticed a white serge with a yel
nw silk blouse, trimmed with yeliow and
white cable cord, also all sorts of odd fan
cies, such as plastrons crossed with red,
white and blue braid, or silk scarfs knotted
below the waist revers.
TFliat an Apt Girl Can Do.
But the girl who .loves to play tennis can
generally plan a pretty suit, without paying
any unheard-of sum tor the sake of a cele
brated artist's tag on the inside of her
jacket If she is deft at embroidery, she will
perhaps select a serviceable, sensible
This Goet With Tennlt and Tea.
navy blue serge, and then, not to be jnst
like the other girls, she will work on the
front breadth of the skirt, just above the
hem, two tennis rackets with crossed han
dles. The skirt will be made a wide belt at
waist'or girdle, and here she will embroider
two smaller ones. She can draw out the
shapes herself, if she is the capable creature
American girls are supposed to be. Her
shirt waist is a fine white serge,
with a racket in each corner of sailor collar.
She buys a rough straw sailor for 25 cents
and fastens round the crown tan leather
straps at 39 cents a pair. If she has anv
money to spare she picks out a fancy stick
pin, in racket or flag shape in blue and
white enamel, or a tinted butterfly with a
single small diamond in the center. She
fastens her chatelaine watch with the bow
knot in frosted gold, set with little tur
quoises which Tom or Dick gave her as a
souvenir of the day which she did such
wonders, and then, if either of said young
men notices the carefully wrought suit, as
he is sure to do, he admires her skill and in
ventive genius. He need not know she
caught the suggestion out of a fashion ar
ticle, for, oi course, he" never reads "that
nonsense."
A Creation In I'ght Silk.
A very dainty little maid, who likes her
clothing to be as light as a feather, has
selected this year a thin silk tennis suit.
The skirt,' instead of being the regulation
bell, is a full one gathered to a girdle, the
silk being a dark blue striped with hair
lines of white. The shirt waist is a sheer
white mull fastened with gold studs. The
silk blazer fastens in front with a heavy
white silk frog. Some of the newest
blazers are belted in the back with a wide
belt ot gold galloon, passing underneath at
the sides and clasping in front over the
shirt waist
Many girls see to it that the same suit
answeres for tennis and bicycling, for which
purpose one of dark blue serge trimmed
with white braid is most appropriate, ac
companied by a visor cap and tan canvas
hoes. The very latest bicycle suit it tbe
invention of a bright, pretty woman, Mrs.
Lena Sittig, living at Jeflerson avenue,
Brooklyn; she is, also the inventor of the
"duck's baoic waterproof," which ii just
now creating such a stir. Her suit has been
tried by lovers of the wheel and declared to
be a great success. It is made of thin,
black cravenette and will shed every drop
of water, so that in such a rig, a girl could
ride through the drenching summer showers
witout getting the least bit wet.
Dresses That Interfere "With the Score.
One wonders that girls Are not allowed to
run and play tennis in something beside tbe
clinging, long bell skirt, but fashion decrees
to the contrary. The professionals, who
plav tennis in earnest, wear a short, fuller
skirt than the bell and tbe old-fashioned
loose blouse with turn-over collar and scarf.
They cannot be handicapped by a dress that
interferes their score. 'But if yon should
remonstrate with the fashionably gowned
tennis girl she might laugh in her sleeve as
did a saucy New Yorker when an English
tailor tried to have her wear at least a short
bell rather than the one with a long dip.
Her ambition is to look thin, besides she
has learned to keep her light cloth train
absolutely unsoiled.
The secret ot it "Look and ee," she
says, as she glides away, turning Back to
cast a sly look over her. shoulder at you in
Off for the Tennis Court.
your discomfiture. The fact is she has
learned a certain swing-swing of gait, which
keeps the dip from really settling on the
ground, and as long as she can add a few
inches to her height and thus increase her
slenderness, you may be sure she will be in
no hurry to give up the popular Paris
fashion.
Girls Do What Birds and Beasts Won't
Thus, in spite of the stern censure of the
genial "Autocrat of the Breakfast Table,"
who says, "It any man can walk behind
one of these women and see what she rakes
up as she goes and not feel squeamish, he
has got a tough stomach. "Why, there isnt
a beast or a bird that would drag its tail
through the dirt in the way these creatures
do their dresses."
A soft gauntlet doeskin is the ideal tennis
glove.
Outing handkerchiefs are of linen cam
bric, with colored button-holed, scalloped
edge, worked with white dots
"White wool braid is the best for trimming
wools.
Belts of all kinds have clasps to harmon
ize with costume; anchors lor yachting,
flags, rackets and wheels as the case may be.
Dot Dimmick.
80ME TABUS ABOUT BIBD&
What the Wild ana Domestic Varieties Are
Doing This bummea,
Brooklyn Citizen.
In some parts of the South the people
have a novel way of decimating what they
deem a pest The black red-headed wood
pecker, in their opinion, does material dam
age to certain trees, and the following is the
inexpensive method they adopt for his de
struction: A pole is lashed to a tree -r
stuck into the ground for the woodpecker to
alight on. When he does, a sharp blow is
given the pole at the foot with a club or axe
upon the side which the bird is. He drops
stone dead.
"Wa'ter Farwell, of Scranton, Pa., wit
nessed a novel fight the other day between
a gopher snake and a kingbird. The snake
was a large one and capable of swallowing
his feathered opponent with ease, but the
bird was too active for him and came out
winner. The bird would hover over the
snake but a foot or two over bis head, and
would strike it on the head from time to
time, the snake all the while trying to
seize the bird, but was unable to do so on
account of its rapid movements. After
some twenty minutes his snakeship gave up
the fight in disgust and hurried away to
avoid the thrusts of his tormentor.
A resident ot Plumstead, Pa., has a tur
key hen which is very aquatic in her habits.
She recently hatched and is now caring for
fourteen ducklings. "When they take to
the water she wades in after them and keeps
as near them as possible.
An eagle swooped down and carried off a
rattlesnake in its claws near Harrisburg,
recently. The snake's singine rattle could
be distinctly heard as the bird ascended,
but the latter had the reptile sate by the
neck.
Some Experiment vf th Iron.
Experiments with malleable cast iron by
the Admiralty of Sebastopol, Russia, have
been successful. A trial bar, heated to red
heat, was folded and refolded several times
in succession, and at the end only one
scarcely perceptible crack showed. An
other bar that was folded cold under hy
draulic pressure, broke alter taking a per
sistent curve. A third bar, heated to cherry
red, could be forged and lengthened into
strips. Its tensile strength was almost
equal to that of ordinary Siemens-Martin
steel.
Colic and Cholera Morhos.
Colic, cholera morbus, cramps and many
other affections of the stomach and bowels
prevalent at this time of the year are due to
two causes. First, the depressing effect of
the hot weather upon the rjervous system,
and second, the use of green fruit, encum
bers, melons,, etc. No one is sale from
painful and even dangerous attacks of
these affections uuless unusual precautions
are taken at this time of year. A table
spoonful ot Pe-ru-na taken before each meal
is a complete protection against these mala
dies. Pc-ru-na is not only a preventive of
colic, cholera morbus, cramps, stomach
ache, summer diarrbosa and cholera, but is
also a prompt cure for these diseases.
Where the attack is verv severe and pain
ful a wineglassful of Pe-ru-na should be
taken at once, followed by two tablespoon
ful doses until complete relief is obtained.
This never fails iu a single case. In cases of
less severity a tablespoonful every hour is
sufficient No one should neglect the pre
caution of taking a dose of Pe-ru-na before
each meal, nntil the hot season is over.
Complete treatise on diseases of hot
weather sent free to any address by The
Pe-r'u-na Drug Manufacturing Company,
Columbus, O.
We pack and store furniture.
Hauoh A Kxesajt, as Water street
wsu
Lrxa' photo studio, 10 and 11 Sixth street,
flrtt-class work, moderate prices, prompt
delivery. Bring the babies. u
vJr fflKoB ntjGsrnHHBa
THE SUMMER OUTING.
How an Ingenious Woman Made Up
ior Her Cottage's Lack of Closets.
CUSHIONS TO BE TAKEN ALONG.
The Cleopatra Girdle Set on Top of the
Head Is tbe Season's Fat.
GOSSIP FROM MARGARET H. WELCH
' niBinty roit the pisr atch.!
"When I was shown into the summer
quarters that I bad engaged 'sight unseen'
as the boys trade jack knives," said a
woman recently, "my first sensation was
one of delight over the big airy corner
room, with two large beds that I and my
three little girls were to occupy; my second,
of dismay to discover not a closet nor a
Wardrobe in its extent Four trunks fol
lowed me upstairs and where, thought I
can I pnt their contents? Before a
strap was looJtned I ran down and
asked for the village carpenter,
and in 20 minutes I had him in that
room. From one window to a corner there
was a stretch of six feet blank space; there
he put me a shelf on brackets with a row of
hooks beneath; on the edge of the shelf the
next day my maid and I shirred a cambric
curtain and thus evolved a press for good
gownrf with a shelf for "bonnet boxes and
such light bulky impediments; one of the
beds had a high head board of stained oak;
we stood that across another corner of the
room, tacked a valance of cambric to the
lower edge of the headboard as a dust pro
tector and in the triangular space thus se
cured, we piled neatly, on the
floor, the children's heavy coats and
play gowns for cool weather that we
U1U IJUb IICCU CKCIJ jr , .., .v
the pine reverse side of the headboard we
nailed a bag of stout bedticking as a soiled
linen hamper; one of my trunks was a flat
topped, trayless packing trnnk and in this
we keep the starched dresses and skirts, my
big shawl covering its unsightliness; a dis
carded soap box from the village grocery we
have covered and nse as a shoe receptacle,
and with one cheap four-armed towel rack
screwed to the door forevery-day wraps, and
a second fastened to the headboard for odd
wrappers and bed-gowns, we are as tidy and
comiortable as Robinson Crusoe "in his
desert island.' "
'It amuses me," says a Delsarte priest
ess, "to hear mothers tell their children to
hold their shoulders up. It is not the
shoulders but the chest which needs elevat
ing. Hold the chest up and the shoulders
fall into a proper position naturally. I tell
my classes to fancy a ball at their throat
which they must roll off over their chests."
The summer piazza of the suburban and
country home shows some novelties of fur
nishings. Portieres of awning cloth, hung
on poles with rings, frequently take the
place of the conventional awning, and. are
newer than matting curtains, though these
are still seen. Shirred half curtains be
tween pillars are also a new notion this
year. They are like sash curtains in win
dows, and are made of wash cretonnes or
even cottage drapery in rather dark and
figured eflects. A cottage in the outskirts
ot Saratoga has these shirred curtains in
Turkey red and the combination with stone
and dark brown paint is not at all bad.
Quite the most often seen in the way of
head-dress this summer at the watering
places is the Cleopatra girdle or some vari
ation of it On the old coins showing the
head of the Egyptian Queen, it will be re
called that a. bandeau is always seen. The
nineteenth century woman has put the
girdle a little higher on ber head and trans
formed the knot at the nape of tha neck to
upright loops above tha forehead, but she
The Cleopatra GirdX.
still calls it the Cleopatra girdle and fan
cies she takes on classic grace when she
doni it The hair is dressed low and the
girdle is made of ribbon or velvet. A
woman with lovely titian red hair was seen
the other evening with a girdle of black
velvet which was very eScctive. White
and bine velvet were' also seen, ami the
twist of pearls in very black hair had vel
vet wings in front stn'ddcd with pearls.
In the modern fondness for bizarre effects
people accomplish curious manifestations.
A bachelor apartment in New York has a
dado about the room with frequent oval and
square openings, cabinet size, in which are
inserted the photogranhs of his girl friends.
It is an odd conceit, and one whic'i interests
everybody who visits the place. Ella
Whe'eler Wilcox, In her bungalow at Short
Beach has a frieze ol photographs around
one ot ner rooms, medaao seems more
sensible, as the pictures are not "jkyed."
White duck hammock pillows embroid
ered in some sketchy athletic design, as
tennis rackets, golf clubs crossed or a hunt
ing cap and whip in -colored flax are much
used.
A private letter from Bar Harbor com
ments on the somber touch on the season
there by reason of the Blaine and Vander
bilt bereavements. Several members of the
latter family are at the Maine resort, thongh
none of the direct Cornelius Vanderbilt
household, which is summering very quietly
at Manchester-by-the-Sea, in Massachusetts.
The young man who died was quite the
pride of the whole family, and it is more
than complimentary mourning they are
wearing tor him. Since Mrs. Emmons
Blaine has gone to Bar Harbor she is fre
quently seen driving out with her infant
son,' and it scarcely needs the heavy weeds
of the young widow to make her presence a
reminder to the most casual observer of the
last crushing sorrow of the Blaine house
hold. Tea talk seems to have been exhausted,
but the good tea is still rare. The very
simplicity of the process militates against
its successful aocomplishment Like the
New York woman with a French chef who
found it impossible to getabowl of palatable
gruel made by him for her sick husband, a
cup of tea, not too strong nor too weak but
brewed to perfection, seems too small a re
sult to provoke intelligent effort Let every
reader of this paragraph recall how many
times in her comings and goings she has
encountered tea, bitter with the tannin of
too long brewinryflavorless from the oppo
It cauM or rank with the steeping In half
boiled water, and the truth of tbe statement
is emphasized.
To make tea properly there should be
careful and perpetual measurement An
even teaspoonfol ot English breakfast tea
leaves in a hot earthenware pot over which
a cupful of freshly boiled water is poured
and allowed to 'stand two and a half
minutes By the watch before .being poured
off, insures a single cup of an aereeable and
harmless drink. To make tea for a consid
erable company the same proportions hold
goo'l, 20 texspoonfuls of leaves to 20 cups of
boiling water for 20 persons. For this
quantity add half the quantity of water at
first, letting the infusion stand two minutes,
then add the other ten enps and allow three
minutes more. At the end of five minute
pour off the tea into a second hot teapot and
the twentieth person will receive a bever
age of the same delicate flavor as gratified
the first drinker. Don't let the tea remain
on the leaves and relv on reducing the bit
terness with Hot wate'r the delicacy of tea
is like the bloom on a peach, once "gone it
can only be found again on another peach.
r
In the tronsseau lingerie of tbe fashion
able bride is now included a set of bed
linen, six exquisitely fine linen sheets and
the same number of pillowslips, each em
broidered with the interlaced initials of the
bride's maiden name. Sometimes this is a
gift from a set of girl friends, eaoh contrib
uting a pair of the cases or a pair of sheets,
which permits a variety of embroidery de
sign. Halt a dozen embroidered linen pil
low covers are also an acceptable gift to a
man friend, particularly if he is in apart
ments. The desire for fine and costly bed
trimmings is one of the features of this age
of luxury, Mrs. W. K. Vanderbilt's famous
point lace bed and pillow covers represent
ing the highest point which has yet been
touched.
Everybody knows the comfort and con
venience of piazza seats and cushions for
the gross, but everybody is not as well in
formed how to secure them easily for the
summer outing. "We go away six
strong," said a woman the other day.
"and it would add seriously to the bulk of
A Comfort for the Outinrj.
our luggage to take pillows and rngs for
lawn and piazzx I make instead half a
dozen bags with a flap comer and a band
attached to hang un by, and when I get out
to the village boarding house where we stay
I fill them with dry sweet hay, and they do
excellent service.
White Dresden china lamps with white
silk shades are the latest accessory to tho
white and gold rooms.
The summer girl who is "form" takes
her constitutional before breakfast, swing
ing along the country roads in a tailor-made
blazer suit of English storm serge, with a
cheviot skirt and four-in-hand tie, and fol
lowed by from six to ten dogs, hounds, set
ters or terriers, as her taste inclines. She
wears gauntlet gloves and carries a dog
whip, but with all her appaxJTitPntempt
of fine ladvism 6ue4s crreful to tieIsik
green or blact-BSl over her sailor hif
prelty face. MAEGAEcr H. Welch.
Mementoes or Colnmbns.
There is now on exhibition in Paris a
boat which, it is said, is as exact a repro
duction as can be made of the caravel which
took Christopher Columbus tr America.
The ship floats around in a large basin whose
edge is made to represent the shore of the
island on which Columbus Iindeil,and there
are Indians and other accessiries to give
realism to the picture. A pantomime rep
resenting the landing of Columbus on the
shores ot the New World is eiven.
2f-w TJse for llir.
The quantity of heat wasled hr sla? has
suggested projects lor utilizing it in raising
steam, but nothing practical iia been at
tained until recently. At a mine in New
South Wales the molten slas is ran into tho
bottoms of iron chambers this c-.i:i Tith
stand internal steam pressure, anil jet nf
water are torced on the she. In a short
time the chambers are filled with steam that
can be utilized in other parts of the
works.
What Is It?
In point of fact it is the
freedom from poisonous and
spurious ingredients, the ex-
cellence in flavor whiclVgives
to Dr. Price's Delicious Flav
oring Extracts of Vanilla,
Orange, Lemon, etc., their
wide popularity and increas
ing sale.
The retail grocers are learning
that quality rather than price
is necessary to retain the
confidence of customers and
make a successful business.
WHILE 100 HIE
OUT OF TDN1
Is an excellent time to let us do
your papering. Also you will
find we can do it cheaper now
than any other part of the year.
Only trusty men employed,
who will leave no'dirt nor dam
age your property.
Fiii3 Wall Paper ani Mouldings,
Wood Street and Sixth Ave.
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