THE SERVANTS' SIOE,
A.n Entertaining andlnstract
ive Half Hour With a
Party of Girls.
FAULTS OF MISTRESSES.
TJaces Where tiie Help Comes to
Dinner After the Poodles.
DISTINCTIONS IN BILLS OP FARE.
Freedom in the ETeninj: Is the Burning
Question of the Day.
OLD CLOTHES IN LIEU OP EALAKI
rcoftiucsroxDxircx or tsx dispatch.!
JIjlrkisbuko, June 16. In this day,
" when the servant girl question ii recelrlng
so much attention from both social and
economic theori.ts, a few illustrations bear
ing on the subject may possess a practical
value. It mar, perhaps, be as well to say
at once that no facts will be stated in this
connection, save such as hare come under
the writer's own personal observation.
One ought not reasonably to expect an
unfledged angel to enact the role of a
Bridget tor the modest compensation of 12
to S3 a week. There is no specialMispensa
tion oi Providence which will exempt the
maid from the moods, sulks, aches and blues
to which her mistress is occasionally sub
jected. Prom a dispassionate point of view
it would seem natural to expect more of
self-control and calm endurance from the
educated and intelligent woman than from
her ignorant and undisciplined domestic
In many cases facts will not bear ont such
an assumption. The mistress regards af
flictions and tempers as her own special
prerogative and exacts unvarying amiability
from her maid of all work.
Servants Not Supposed to Have Jferres.
ThiB too. despite the fact that the former
can command her own time, while the latter
must bake and boil, and wash and iron, no
matter how suffocating the weather may be,
how her head may ache or her nerves throb.
Nerves, however, are a most superfluous
luxury for a servant. They are popularly sup
posed to be the special possession of the
rich. As the physical anatomy of rich and
poor is the same, it is hard to understand
whv "nerves" cannot belong to the arbiter
of the kitchen as well as to the presiding
genius of the drawing room.
One thing should always be borne in
mind, namely, that both mistress and maid
are alike women, endowed with similar
aims and hopes and natures and affections.
The sen ant is not an automaton. She mar
have a lower grasp of the meaning and
purposes of life, but her horizon embraces
within its limits much the same objects
that are contained within the broader sweep
of her mitress mental vision. Bridget is
a shrewd observer. She is a critic and a
judge. She sees the prosaic side of Hie,
and has a profound contempt tor many a
woman who stands high in the social world.
If Bridget so elected she could carry frczn j
one place to another many a choice morsel
of domestic wrangling, of 'private scandal,
of unguessed selfishness and of shrewish
temper. As a rule, however, some unwrit
ten code of honor seals her lips, and she
eeps inviolate numerous secrets with which
sV 'might amaze a startled public.
One Subject Brldcet Discusses.
On one subject, however, she is rerbose.
"When questioned by another -servant' con-,,
ceruiu u junuc naicu cue ass recently ltll
Bridget docs not hesitate to .steak forcibly
and to the treatment which "She" lWact i cd.
personally. Further than this she does not
go, but on this one topic she waxes elo
quent. Beoently at a little gathering of working
girls I chanced to overhear the mistress dis
cussed from her maid's standpoint. In the
group were some eight or ten servants. Two
of them were desirous of securing places.
and were making eager inquiries about cer-"
tain women who were known to be without
help. In short, the girls were seeing if their
v ould-be mistresses could furnish suitable
recommendations rather a reversal of the
usual status of affairs. Yet, be it known,
this is by no means an unusual proceeding.
A sort of Freemasonry exists among all
servants, in consequence of which they
advise, warn, dissuade and admonish each
other with regard to all places. Bnt let
them speak for themselves, and remember
that this is no fancy sketch at all, but a bit
of servant talk to which the writer deliber
ately listened.
Xot as Good as th Doc.
Mary was out of a place and Mrs. Smith,
Bridget's former mistress, was endeavoring
to engage her. Bridget listened nervously
to the statement of the case, and then her
words burst forth in a torrent: "I would
sooner starve than go back to her. Sure.
she gave me $3 a week and there was a sec
ond girl and a washerwoman, too, but for
all that, and though there were only two in
the family, I wouldn't go back again for
no amount of money! I never dared eat any
meat or potatoes until her dogs had been
led; as if I wasn't as good as a dog, and bet
ter, too! I had to eat after them, and to
cook Jor the nasty little things and to wash
them as if they were babies. And I never
dared to be out after 9 o'clock in the even
ine, though gracious me, she would be out
until 3 and 4 in the morning! And I didn't
dare have company, either. "What did she
think I could do all evening, anyway,? I
can't read and she knows it. I've
heard her complain often enough
of being lonely when her husband
was awar and no one chanced to call, and
goodness knows she had her books and
magazines and music and fancy work. And
that was her house, too, and of course she
-would feel more interest in it than I would.
But she expected me to be in every evening
ot my life and never see my friends. I
stood 'it nearly a year, for I hale to change
places, but I tell you I'd have gone crazy
sure if I'd stayed a week longer."
Mast nave Tbelr Evenings.
A very animated discussion followed
Bridget's harangue, and it was most ob
vious that the "evening" was a sore topio
with the girls. Help chanced to be very
scarce m the city and there were evidently
certain women who would find it extremely
difficult to get girls because of their stand
on this very question. ,
Apparently the girls did not wish to be
unreasonable. At least they so asserted re
peatedly. They were willing to remain at
home whenever there was any real emer
gency demanding their presence. "When no
such case arose, however, they felt that
they were entitled to some liberty after
bara day's work.
"Our minister gave me a ticket once to a
Y. 31. G. A. lecture," announced Bridget,
"and Mrs. Smith wouldn't let me go. That
was just a little too much. She said I
oughtn't to be on the streets alone at night.
As it an honest girl couldn't take care of
herself at that hourl"
"How about Mrs. Brown?" questioned
Mary, "she hasn't got a girl, either."
"I don't believe you'd like her at all,"
volunteered another of the group. "You
duftn't eat in the dining room, and yon.
can't use the same dishes that the family
does. She keeps cheaper ones for the girt
Then, too, she'll buy cheap meat and cheap
butter for you, and you won't dare touch
what the family has. I know all about her.
I've tried it there. I used to have hard
work getting a square meal sometimes."
A Woman Thtj All Likrd.
"I wish Mrs. A. wanted a girl," was
jlary'a next remark. It was evident that
Mrs. A. was well known, at least by repu
tation, judging from the complimentary
chorus that greeted this last utterance.
"When she wants a girl she can get 20."
"Her servants have to do their work well,
but she knows how to treat them." "Her
girls never leave unless they die or get
married," "She is a real lady." ''She
doesn't poke her nose into a girl's private
affairs."
These were only a few of the euloglums
pronounced on the absent Mrs. A., and she
was one of the very few that reoelved any
commendation from the kitchen critics.
A running commentary, on well-known
women of the plaoe followed, and some of
the strictures passed were very keen. Scraps
of conversation reached me something like
this: "Mrs. a Is dreadfully, fussy and par
ticular and puts on lots of airs with her
servants. I wonder if she thinks we don't
know sne was a hired girl once herself. A
real lady don't have to put on such airs and
be so afraid of herself."
"I stayed a month once at Mrs. D.'s,
but she thought she could go into my room
and look through all my things whenever
she wanted to. I found her reading my
letters more thirn once. I wonder how she
would liked to have had me going through
her thine- ".at way. I 'would have had just
as mucu ht to do it as she had."
A Mistress Who Was Suspicious.
"Mrs. F. was awfully funny. She was
alnays leaving a ten-cent piece or a quarter
around some place to see if I would take it.
I tumbled quick enough to her little game,
but it made me mad. She had the worst
children I ever saw. They had to mind
her, but she let them be as impudent to the
girls as they chose. I never heard children
talk so in -all mv life, and their mother
'seemed to think it was all right, no matter
what they said to me. The oldest boy
slapped me in the face one day and I put
him out of the kitchen. I wouldn't stand
that sort of thing you can just bet. Then
there was a scene. The mother soolded me
but never said a word to the child, so I up
and told her that I wouldn't stav another
hour unless she would keep the youngsters
of out the kitchen aud make them behave re
spectably tome. She wouldu'tdoit, of course,
aud I lelt It was In the midst of a large
washing, too, but I aida't care one bit" "
"You know Mrs. M.? "Well, she doesn't
know any more about housekeeping than a
baby does. She wouldn't own up to it,
though, and she used to act as wise as an
old grandmother. She never knew what to
order for a meal, so at last she commenced
giving me published menus. "Well, halt the
time I couldn't get the things in those old
bills of fare. They weren't to be had in the
market and that is' all there was about ft.
So I got in the habit of buying just what I
could, and she never knew the difference
between the printed bill of fare and mine,
for I'd never let on.
A Home Where Food Was Wasted.
"The amount of food wasted in that house
was something awful. She always wanted
a great lot of everything cooked for fear
company would come in unexpectedly.
Then she'd never let me put a scrap on the
table the second time, aud I didn't dare give
any to the beggars either. I just had to
throw everything away. Sometimes there
would be a great big roast or a whole
chicken. It used to make me feel bad. I
don't believe much in beggars myself, but
I'd a heap rather give good victuals like
that to them, than to throw them away.
That woman will come to want before she
dies, you see if she doesn't."
"I wonder if any of you ever lived with
Mrs. O.," remarked another girl who had
kept silent upto this point, "because if you
haven't, you don't know a thing about work.
She only kept one girl, and I had to do all
the work, even the washing and ironing.
There were eight in the family, too. She
never did an earthly thing, not even to
make her own bed, or look after the mend
ing. I had it all to do, and half the time
I had to mind the babv 'while cooking or
washing. Then she had an awful lot of
company. I've ironed there sometimes
until 3 o'clock in the morning, aud that
wasn't any tun either, for I had to be up
again at 6 to get breakfast. I stood it for
more than two years though, fori was green
then. Besides, I couldn't help liking her,
too. But I tell you I wouldn't go back
again. "
Not Getting Their Par.
"Oh ink the meanest thing of all, though,
is to be cheated out ot your money. I
lived with one woman who was good enough
In every 'other way, bnt she was a regular
old miser. . She did hate to pay me just
awfully. Every Saturday she d hunt up
an old skirt or an old dress that wasn't fit
to be seen, or maybe an old pair of shoes.
Then she'd tell me how good they were still
and how much more they were worth than
my week's wages, but that she'd give them
to me anyway for just what she owed me,
because she knew I needed them. And I'd
just have to tae them. You never saw
anything like her. You couldn't get your
money and that's all there was about it."'
Are these decidedly ungrammatical scraps
of talk interesting? They should possess
some merit from an ethical standpoint at
least, as they are from real life. Of course,
the servant problem is two-fold. There are
Slenty of domestics who are ignorant, dis
onest, untruthful and drunken. Yet these
girls are in the minority. The average serv
ant Is fairly competent, honest and willing.
She often comes from a respectable country
family and desires to be treated with some
degree of consideration. The trouble is
that mistresses make no distinction at all
between the ignorant and the competent,
between the honest and the unreliable. The
servant girl has not the education which
will allow her to tell her trials and tribula
tions in cold print The wrongs and woes
of her mistress have formed the theme of
many an eloquent article, but Bridget has
been compelled to remain dumb.
Mabel Cbosise Joxzs.
A FAMOUS CAEKIAGE.
It Is the One TJ-d bj Napoleon X tn Bis
Retreat From Moscow.
The carrlrge which Napoleon X. used in
his famous retreat from Moscow, and iu
which he started out from Paris in the cam
paign that ended at Waterloo, is now held
by the trustees of the "Wellington estate,
having been captured by tbe Iron Duke.
It is a two-seated conveyance, with top
aud sides lined with iron;there is also a
lront "curtain" of iron that can be raised
and lowered at will The wheels are large
and heavy, and the steps are finished with
curious battle designs done in silver. The
Emperor used tbe back seat and kept his
pillows and blankets under It The back
of the front seat was used as a cupboard,
and was provided with all sorts of culinary
articles and a small spirit or oil stove.
PEBSISTENT EFfOET.
A Good Policy Is Cromwell's Example,
Mnke the Iron Hot by Slrlkln-r.
It is good policy to strike while the iron
is hot; it is still better, to adopt Cromwell's
procedure, and make the Iron hot by strik
ing, writes E. L. Magvott in the Humani
tarian. The master spirit who can rule the
storm is great, but he is much greater who
can both raise and rule it To attain that
grand power, one must possess the brave
and indomitable soul of activity which
prompted Edmund Burke to exclaim to his
constituents in his famous speech at Bristol,
"Applaud us when we run; console us
when we fall; cfieer us when we recover;
but let us pass en lor God's sake, let us
pass on."
THE SHOCK OF A CANNON.
Babbits Placed If ear the Mania of a Gan
Wers Instantly Killed.
During the recent trial trip of the British
cruiser Beowulf, experiments were made for
the purpose of determining the shock of tbe
air at the mouth of a gun at the moment of
firing.
Babbits were placed near the muzzles of
the guns, and shots fired. In every case the
animal fell dead at once. In order to test
the probable effects of the enormous dis
placements of air upon human beings, fig
ures made of straw were usea. These were
torn to plecesin every instance. The trials
were made with long-bored 24-centimeter
ring guns.
HATS AND BONNETS.
Oar Sisters Across the Seas Wearing
Some Pretty Designs.
PABIS CONTRIBUTES BEAUTIES.
Gowns to Be Been in the Salons, Theaters
and Gardens There.
HINTS AS TO DAME FASFIIOX'S WHIMS
rwRrrTEU roa ths dispatch.
This is par excellenoe the year of pretty
hats and bonnets; so tbe ladles say, and
they are the best
judges. The shapes
are all quite new,
and are the smartest
and daintiest seen
for many seasons.
The pretty little
bonnet shown in
sketch marked No.
1 is quite a novelty
that has just been
brought out In Lon
don. It is certain
to meet with high
favor, although not
becoming to all
No. L
faces. 'It is made of suede, either tan color
or black, edged with fine jet and gold em
broidery. Perched high In front is a large
butterfly of wired lace In black and gold.
It can also be had in black without any
gold.
No. 2 is a tempting novelty that has just
been brought out by one ot the most stylisV
aud original of Paris
ian milliners. The
shape is new and like
ly to be generally be
coming. It is made
of white chip and
white fancy straw,
trimmed all along one
side with clustering
tips of white ostrich
feathers arranged very
prettily. The trim
ming is completed by
a band ond bow of
black velvet, secured
with a small paste
buckle.
The same milliner
A'o. .
brings out another
dainty thing which is reproduced in No. 3.
it is really a pretty
bit in the way of
headgear and is made
up ot a crown of pale
eau de nil chip with a
brim ot black nutmeg
straw, the latter bent
iuto a most becoming
point in front Tbe
trimming consists of
a large Alsatian bow
of black guipure lace,
with a cluster ot roses
placed on one side.
This arrangement is
not absolute, the
shape admitting of
many different com
binations. '
In 27a 4 one of the
newest and smartest
hats of the season is
reproduced. The
shape is mide with a
crown of brown chip
aud a wide brim of
brown fancy straw.
The trimming con
sists of a double
wreath of pale pink
roses, and some dainty
bows and quillings ot
fine brown lace ar
ranged as shown in
cut Another novelty
hailing from London Ko.L
is Shown in No. 0. It is an exceedingly be
coming hat of fine
blacK straw with a
brim turned up
slightly all the way
round, and orna
mented with two
lines or jet embroid
ery. The trimming
consists of ivy leaves
and berries, and a
large bow of magenta
velvet, secured by
a dagger with a jetted
head. It is stated
that one-half the
fashions of the world
originate in Paris.
T ahHah UavTih 4
Vienna have each
their coterie of world-renowned modistes.
They all bring out
new ideas every year,
but the best of them
seem founded on
schemes broached pre
viously in the French
capital
Now Is the season
when the show at
Paris is at Its height
The salons, theaters
and gardens are
thronged with gaily
and ultra fashionable
Parlsiennes and vis
itors in all the glory
of summer attire L
c, . gowns of light
woolen material and
long' basqued coats,
opening over lace,
cambrio or silken
fronts, neatlv tied in
at the waist with
satin cinctures and
large straw hats
trimmed with low
broad bows of ribbon
The Hovel Vape.
or velvet, with the inevitable
aigrette of
antenna or insect horns rising dashingly
from the center.
About the mot striking novelty of the
season in the way of a cape was that seen
on a lady at the opening of the annual
flower show at the Jardin d'AccIimatatlon.
Judging from the general admiration it
created it promises to be quite the rage tnis
season. It was a very short shoulder cape
of finely pleated black lace, scarcely more
in tact man a deep
fichu, with a small
yoke of silk embroid
ered with jet, and at
the back a hugo AI
satioh bow ot very
wide black moire rib
bon, reaching quite
to the hem of the
skirt. The cape made
a charming finish to
alight summer cos
tume. A cut of the'
new cape is shown
herewith.
About the prettiest
indoor . dresses are
those to be eeen in
the theaters. The
actresses at the dif
ferent playhouses
always adorned in
the latest stvles are
engaged in'oolte a
JItie. Dttcamn't Goum-rlvalry this year as
to which shall appear In the neatest and
most striking ideas of tbe great dressmakers.
" Emma Eames, the Amerioan singer, is at
present iu Paris, having a number ot new
dresses made tor. next season. Three of
them, at least, will be likely to create gen
eral enthusiasm among the ladies who love
new and pretty gowns.
A very pretty garment that would become
almost any woman was woru by Mile.
Desclanza's.of the Gymuaze Theater, and is
reproduced here as well as hard black lines
can such a 'dainty and graceful affair. It
was made of havannah peace de sole,
trimmed with darker silk aqd white em
broidered tulle. K. G. W.
rxubo fdrntture raupuolstred.
wsu Hauoh A Kzdtav, SS Whter street
-ra
taLv-1 &Wr
M
WHAT ONE CArpo AT HOME
Tbe Dainty Gown a Dainty Girl Hade for
Herself It Grew From Accessories A
Pretty' Picture One of "These 'June
Days-Money Saved. J -
IWEIITIJ rOR TBI DISPATCH. 1
I surprised a little lady the other morn
ing anddisoovered her at work on a waist Of
dainty colors. "When I asked her what she
was doing, she repIiear..t"Well, you see, I
take part oi e'very'raorning and make my
summer morning dresses. Then' I estimate
what it would have costto hire them made,
aud take that amount which I have saved
out ofay allowance'', put it aside, add never
touch it, except t6 do goisd real good, you
know, to someone ormyself.
"I'm -making a dress now that grew outof
Its aeeessories, for I ouly planned it after
trio little things tnat are to go. wit n it were
all made. I thought, about it all in this
way: I saw one,of the Carmencita parasols
downtown and decided to make one in colors
to please me.' Next I made my hat but,
oh, you'll see now, for it is finished, and I'll
put them all on,"
And away she ran to dress. "When she re
turned she was so tweet, all lavendar and
white! so like a dainty maiden in some
quaint picture, that she was a delight to be
hold. -But I shall let her describe it to you
as she explained It all to me:
."This parasol 1s pretty old. I took the
crowning oft from one I soiled last summer
and used it lor a pattern, then I covered the
lrame with lavendar silk. This outside
covering is white chiffon and I puffed and
shirred it on aud put this ruffle around the
edge. Then on the inside-I put a delicate
lavendar chiffon, because I think it pretty,
to hart it deeper in the shadow just as a
rose seems softer and deeper when you look
w&f down in the bud. flanging from each
rib' is a lavendar chiffon flower which buds
in a circle around the center 'and on the
edge just inside the white one, and hasn't
it a charm?
"My bonnet is just a prettily shaped
frame, covered with white .shirred mull,
and all around the edge I have a border of
pale violets. These lone strings of mull
fasten on my shoulder and fall low down on
my. dress. This dress is white mulL I
bought the skirt length hemstitched and
made a plain full skirt a lit'Je long in the
back. The waist is a simple one gathered
in the shoulders and drawn in at the belt,
with, a race ruffle at the neck and
at the wrists ot these puffed sleeves.
I bought gros grain lavendar ribbon
to ' give tlpe colors to tbe dress,
and made two loops in. each shoulder,
tben drew a piece frcm either shoulder to
just between my shoulder blades. There I
made a bow with short loops, and left the
ends fall way down nearly to the bottom of
my skirt I have a piece of the ribbon for
a belt and fatten it iu front with tbls Bhine
stone buckle.
"Then I wanted "a bag for my handker
chief, so I made one out of the mull and
lace, and hung it from my belt bv two
white ribbons, on which I have embroidered
a few stray violets. Then these lavender
Stockings and white canvas shoes were my
last purchases. "
And I thought bow sweet and refreshing
will be the sight of that dainty little maiden
some of these warm summer a days. And
the money she has saved will help gladden
some poor heart H. F. C
BICYCLE EIEB0I8K.
Besides Being Bafe It It Entertaining, and
Tonne Folk Acquire Self-Rellanee.
The New York Ledger mji it is surprising
how,the bicycle has multiplied since the
old-time high wheel has been superseded by
the comfortable and manageable "safety."
There is now no special risk, while with' the
old style one" occasionally took one's life in
one's hands. The one criticism to be made
on the present model is that, the wheels
might to advantage be larger. The larger
the wheel, the less jar and the more speed.
Of course, the geared wheel helps the speed
of the "safety" amazingly; but even this is
susceptible of decided improvement
As an entertainment for ohildren, there is
probably nothing which is more desirable.
The exhilaration of speed it something de
lightful, and the' sense' o'f freedom and self
reliance which youngsters acquire by means
of such exercise is well worth all it oosts.
"For girls, there should be plain, simple
dresses of serge, a scant, medium-length
skirt, with blonse, . loose sleeves
with cutis, and a cap or hat is suitable. The
cap is more comfortable, but the hat is
almost indispensable for those who burn or
ton easily. A veil Is inconvenient and
scarcely appropriate, but is sometimes abso
lutely necessary unless one is willing to sac
rifice the complexion.
Yerv long hose, with Btraps from the
shoulders, are required with suits of this
sort Ot course, no girl should wear a cor
set while taking such exercise. A fitted
waist, rather loose, is the ideal garment
There are few prettier sights than a family
out on their wheels, or the father instructing
the youngsters in the management of this
admirable means of exercise.
A CTJBI0TJ5 BUG.
It'll a tlv'e Beetle, Very Beautiful and Has
Bad Nothing to Ett for Nearly a Tear.
A curiosity in' beetles which seems a
direct successor of Pope's famous gold bug
Is now in London, says fhe Boston Birald.
It Is in the possession of Mr. W. G. Dud
ley Wyatt, -who bought it in the city of
Mexico.
It is about an inob in length, aud not only
has It a gold embroidered coat actually sewn
to Its wing cases, but its legs, thorax, head,
and antennas are gilded. Mr. Wyatt has
taken it to the South Kensington authori
ties and has promised to present It to them
next Thursday. It is alive and has a small
gilt chain and pin attached to It, and Mr.
Wyatt seems to carry it about in all sorts
of odd "positions, sometimes pinned to hie
coat, at other times in his waistcoat pocket
He left Mexico, where beetles decorated as
his are worn by the ladles in all the smart
sets, and has carried it with him all through
tbe East and India during some teven
months. He says it has had nothing to eat
during that time, and will live a captive for
from three to four years.
THE WAT FfiAHZLIN 10AHBD MONEY.
A Zietter Explaining HU Trick for Doing; a
Detl or Good With IJttle Money.
Franklin wrote the following letter to S
man to whom he was lending some money:
"I send you herewith a bill for 10 louis
d'nrs; I do not pretend to give such a sum,
I only lend it to you. When you shall re
turn to your country, you' cannot fail of
getting into some kind of business, that
will in time enable yon to pay all your
debts. In that ease, when you meet with
another honest man In similar distress, you
must pay me by lending this sum to hint,
enjoining him to discharge the debt by a
like operation when-he shall be able, and
shall meet with another opportunity. I
hope it may then go through, many hands,
before it meets with a knave to stop its
progress. This is a trick of mine for doing
a deal of good with little money."
Winnow Flowers.
Mnd evening brings her pleasant hours,
When dtist and din are left behind;
Although I tread no shady bowers,
Yet calm the Joy these smiling flowers
"Btsat- to my wearied mind.
i Here sterner passions find tbelr tomb,
A day or toil mayhap bath borne)
8ft sweetly-wins each beauteous bloom .
To tendelness, that care and gloom.
Are made depart with acorn.
, Here Sol's last ray, with lingering light,
Gives luster to a thousand hue,"
Each glowing In a radiance bright.
Surpassed alone when balmy nbtb.t
Gild's morn with spangled dews.
Here tender leaf and bud nnd bloom,
When softly falls tlev moistening nitn,
Loads Zopljyr jrltli a rich perfume.
And lendii a frayranoe to my room,
From Chloris' tweet domain. '
New York Ledger.
' LooirrnvAit -Awitsaoa n't Jtamanx A Son's
(KM Fenn aTjentte. TeL 1979. watt
CLASS DISTINCTIONS
Are Being Drawn Now as Closely in
the New as in the Old World,
TBI LADtfSMAID AKDIADY'S MAN.
Treatment of an American Belle at
Queen's Prawlng Room.
the
GOSSIP FROM
MAEGAEET
H. WELCH
, rwrrr fob tht dispatch, I
A recent writer in the Nlnttecnlh Century
in a study of New York society puts
forward the lady's maid as. an important
foctor'in the process of ! volution which the
society class has, undergone during the last
20 years. The lady's maid is now as com
mon In New York as iu London and her
vast Increase may be regarded as significant
of the change in the woman she serves. She
has in fact develbped from the woman of
wealth and leisure but still simple habits
Into the "great lady" of Old World aris
tocracy. Said a visiting Englishman to a York wo
man the other day: "I find tbe class dis
tinctions here quite as strongly drawn as
in London; really-1 think In the more for
mal households in which 1 have been, the
lines are preserved with greater rigidity
than in many English establishments of the
same class."
One ot the fortunate or unfortunate
young women who were present at the first
drawing room writes graphically ot it to a
Hew York friend: "I thought it would be
delightful," she says, "but it was a perfect
penance. A dancing master gave me a
lesson in courtesying and managing the court
train, whose proportions until you
have worn one cannot be appreciated, but
when my name was called I was in a panto
Arrayed for Royally.
of horror. It wasn't the royalties I dreaded,
it was the other women." I got through
somehow feeling an immense relief that the
next name was called before I had much
more than began my bows. When I was
fairly out of the Throne Boom I got caught
in a oruh which is simply indescribable;
my bouquet of orchids was torn out of my
hand and I never saw it again, and my tulle
veil was a fringe of rags. It really didn't
pay, for after all it wasn't the Queen only a
mere Boyal Highness to whom I made my
bow.
A crush of women with trains and fur
belows as illustrated, could, as may be
fancied, easily get into almost inextricable
confusion.
Hammocks are partaking of the univer
sal progressive movements. A blonde has a
pale blue hammock piled with cushions of
pale bine sateen strung across the corner of
the piazza opening out of her own especial
lounging room in her country home. "I
shall always wear a white gown when I loll
in this," she says esthetically. A brown
haired girl is doing some cushions in gold
browns for an ecru hammock, she says,
though she does not say it is to match tbe
lights in her eyes. An orange and black
hammock in alternate stripes has black silk
pillows embroidered in the same vivid hue
a most effective background for some,
young woman with lustrous'eyes and clear
dark skin.
The bric-a-brao table illustrated in the ac
companying cut is seen now in many apart
ments. It can be got up simply or elabor
ately. "A frame of soft wood, ebonized or
enameled to suit furnishings, can hold the
glass box, ora cabinet maker can put it to
gether of polished hard wood, with brass
hinges aud fittings for the top case. It is
intended for the choice and delicate bits of
bric-a-brac, fans, lace, old miniatures, a
rare, plate or cup, or trifle of delicate
carving which are too frail and fine to
be exposed to .dust and breakage. They
A Jiric-a-Brao Table.
are beautifully displayed In this way yet
perfectly preserved. Sometimes one -apartment
holds several of these tables in dif
ferent sizes. One smaller and with shal
lower box than the one illustrated was of
soft wood painted in pink enamel paint,
the glass edges bound and tied with pale
pink ribbons; within was a beautiful dis
play of couch shell trinkets, a carved neck
lace, . brooches and some boxes and tiny
trays of the pink shell together with a num
..' r i.T s
ugi ui uuuui, apcciincus.
Quite as important as the lady's maid is
the lady't man who attends her abroad
much more often than the maid. At an
elevated station in New York the other day
a woman of quiet wut elegant appearance
entered the waitiiiK room, the door being
held open for her by a beardless young
maa,' out of livery but unmistakably a
servant He carried a package of law
papers and was evidently accompanying his
mistress to her legal advisers in tbe lower
part of the. city, where many women will not
take their horses. The man -bought the
tickets, held open tht second door and pre
ceded the woman to the; platform ot the
train, making way lor her, then drew back
to permit her, to pass in first, seating him
self after she had taken a place several
seats away on the opposite tide.
The woman never once noticed him, or
teemed to know that be was there, and at
Wall street they left the train In the same
formal silence. It takes 'a mistress of ex
perience as well as a tfath'ed servant toman
age such scenes Unobtrusively, but 'the fact
that they are so managed Constantly In New
York and Newport indicate the truth of
the" "great lady" assertion.
- "
Every bride delights tft give tome touch
of orljinalltr Jo her wedding .fete and
florists and decorations are taxed to suggest
or carry out some distinctive design. , X
couple- recently married stood under two
large wedding rings ot golden flowers bung
above their heads by broad white ribbops,
A background at another wedding was a
screen of greens on which a large true
lovers' knot was deslgntd in roses, while at
still another wedding celebrated last week,
an arch ot wedding bells made of white
flowers spanned the entrance to the room
where the ceremony was performed. In tbe
heart of each floral bell was fastened a metal
one, whose silver tinkle rang musically out
with every air vibration.
W TC
A trained nurse in England has a dis
tinctive dress when she goes abroad with
her patient, a dress of dark blue material
with red pipings, aud with it is wom a
temi-poke bonnet with ribbons tying it
under the chin. One who accompanied her
charge to New York this spring has attracted
gome attention accompanying him about in
drives and .walks during his convalescence.
There has been an added halo set around the
trained nurse's head since the publication ot
some statistics by a German professor of the
risks of her calling. The professor com
putes among other things that according to
figures a nurse at the age ot 25 has the same
chance ot lite that a man at C8 has, which
shows a small percentage of survival in the
profession.
Next to this being an age of cushions and
souvenir spoons' it is also one of sachets. A
sachet tea has already been described iu
this column and its possibilities were by no
means limited. Dress sachets accompany
ing gowns sent home from leading modistes
and sets, of them lu varied hues are consid
ered dainty aud acceptable gifts for brides.
They are attached to a seam in the skirt
aud'are usually 32 inches long and three
inches wide. One is sufficient for a skirt
aud one each, 15 inches long, for the sleeves.
In sets they are made ot delicate hues, for
ball and reception toilets aud of ecru and
tans for walking dresses.
Bureau sachets are now 'made in pairs one
for the bottom of the drawer and aqother a
size larger than the drawer itselt to cover
everything and tuck in lightly. There are
besides sachets for gloves, ties, handker
chiefs, night dresses and various other im
pedimenta of the toilet Fan sachets for
the delicate and exquisite toys which mihtdy
affects are a late development of the sachet
scheme. They are single for one fan. or
made often with three oompartments for as
many of the lace ot feather trifles.
A specialty of some of the Women's Ex
change and one to which the attentions of
all managers of such institutions should he
called, is the painting of china to match
broken sets. Any housekeeper who hat
tried to have a cup or plate of a cherished
service replaced by sending to the factory
knows what delay and disappointment often
result and will be reminded of the proba
ble resources much nearer at hand.
'
The desire among women nowadays to
contribute in some way to the welfare of
others it noticeable in the branching out of
the women's clubs into philanthropic work.
Whereas at first the clubs were home mis
sionaries, content to carry a broader culture
and a deeper knowledge of affairs to their
own members alone, they now reach out for
other fields of work. Kindergartens and
kitchen gardens are favorite schemes for
women workers, and fortunately these vine- f
vards are large enough to employ many la
borers. "I welcome a new kindergarten as I do &
fresh flower," said a woman who has given
her life to the work, "There can never be
too many." . '
Women's Alumna: associations are espe
cially proficient In concerted charitable
work, looking back with amused surprise to
the days when a social reunion once or
twice a year was the apparent raison d'etre
of their existence. Even the fashionable
private schools are Imbued with the pre
vailing spirit In Chicago there is a Lunch
Club to provide wholesome and inexpensive
luncheons for working women, which was
started by the graduates in that city of a
fashionable Philadelphia school, and In va
rious cities there are others doing similar
work. Vassar Alumnsa, in New York, pro
vide a scholarship at their alma mater, sup
port a kindergarten, and largely contribute
to the famous Blvington Street College set-'
tlement, and wells and bmitn women are
equally active in, various avenues of the
same sort
The white chamois gloves so popular last
year are in high favor again. They may be
washed in suds of white castile soap, thor
oughly rinsed and should be dried on the
hand to retain their shape.
MabqabetH. Welch.
Differing in
Every Respect
Dr. Price's Delicious Flavor
ing Extracts differ in every
respect from all the others.
They are more uniform, more
economical, as it requires but
- a small quantity to impart
the desired flavor. They are
true to nature, as they are
made from the fruit Their
flavor is most delicate and
pleasing to the taste. They
. are not the cheapest but they
are the best Try Dr. Price's
Vanilla, Lemon, or Orange
Extract and we guarantee
that they will prove to be all
that could be desired by
connoisseurs, viz,: perfection.
FOR X
HALLS, X m
libraries;-
dining rooms,
sitting rooms '
Darker effects in fine Wall Papers
are to be used this season. We
are selling some sumptuous cop
ies of rare old Leather and Tap
estry hangings for these rooms.
ENGLISH WAX COLORS,
Suitable for chambers, are ex
ceedingly stylish. We have
many beautiful American de
signs for chambers. "Prices were
never lower.
. THE & CO.,
Wood St and Sixth Ave.
Telephone 1334. ' '
JelMa
NJCW ACVXimSSaCEKTf.
THE LARGEST AND LEADING MILLINERY HUE IN WEST. PENNL
THE Immensity,
tba Beauty, tha Va
riety ,the Harmonies
or our Vast Millin
ery Exposition,
More, Yea, More
Than Doubled the
Bealiaation of Our
Moat Sanguine Ex
pectations Early in
From stem to stern, our noble craft, of commerce is laden
with the precious products of the looms, mills and factories of
the world. Nowhere in these twin cities can you gaze upon
such"an interesting, instructive or varied collection of merchan
dise, and nowhere else can you see such multitudes of eager, in
telligent citizens looking for novelties that they know can be had at
DANZIGER'S.AND DANZIGEHS ONLY!
And then, the prices on all our goods are marked in plain fig
ures, which, in .their mute sincerity, tell the people in thunder
tones of unmistakable certainty that they are cheaper than any
where else. Almost daily are we unearthing commodities that
hitherto have been classed as luxuries, obtainable only by the
favored 400. By our methods of clearing large blocks of mer
chandise over products, eta, eta at our own figures, we are
enabled to place those recent IuxuriesUvithin reach of alL Pat
ronage from all classes of thrifty, money-saving, cash-buying citi
zens growing daily, encouraging us more and more to reach out,
until not a thing shall be too good or too expensive to put be
fore those of moderate means.
Pittsburg's Champion Far-Famed Wrapper
Department.
H
" fn uflHsB ir PI 11 lift
colors to match stripe, plaited fan baok, - tiovr for 8c Each
Ihcil tuuio iiiuso lovely 3 Wrappers, -made np from Arnold's popular Zephyr
Ginghams, 'lovely patterns, both stripes and plaids; they're gathered in front from" a
square yoke down to waist, where a new Bodice Belt brings it close to the front, plaited
fan back, Sow for 91.49 Each
Talk about keeping cool, yon should see those fine India Lawn $3 0 Wrappers,
black ground, large or small polka dots, also stripes, feather stitched yoke and enfis,
Watteaa plait from neck down with a short demi. train, and aU we ask for them is
Bnt $1.74 Each
They're very neat and stylish, those elegant Anderson Gingham 3 0 Wrappers,
Chambray yoke and caffs, tight-fitting body waist, Now for 9199 Each
Take a. Peep at Pittsburg's Unapproachable
Waist Department.
Still they come. Ten -Thousand morel Ten thousand what? Custom
ers? Well, no, not exactly; customers'll come anyhow. But ten thousand
more new, stylish, nobby, seasonable Waists (and, 'whisper in your ear.
they're a couple of celebrated manufacturers' overproductions, bought at
less than price of material; but, tnen, you see, we don't want to rattle any
of our sensitive neighbors this hot. weather; that's why we whisperingly
vinake this announcement in brackets)
Another lot of those fine SOc and 76c White Lawn Waist, plaited front and back; oh,
but they're daisies I Am Before, Only 24c Each
More of those lovelr, fine India Lawn Waists, neatly plalced front and back
91 is their price all round about us Kow for 49c Each
Pretty dark patterns of beautiful dotted and very fine Lawn Waists thev're what
you're accustomed seeing at $1 SO, Now for 74c Each
There's also a -very elegant lot of $1 80 very fine TJnlaundered Shirt Waists,
tucked or plaited as suits your fanor, Sow for 74c Each
Beautifully fine f2 White Lawn Waists, cool and stylish, new Bishop sleeves,
' Now tor 99c Each
Elegant, fine Satlne Waists, stripes or dots and all dark patterns, nice 12 Satine
Waists, mind you, Now for 98c Each
Kicb, Pure. Surah Silk ?6 Waists, in the popular Jarbeau style,
u Now for 92.99 Each
Above are simply selections at random. Hundreds of other styles
equally cheap. All, nice, new fashionable tony Waists. Pay us a visit
It'll more'n pay you. ,
Pittsburg's Acknowledged Headquarters for
. Stylish, Fashionable Millinery.
Although running the risk of ruffling the fine feelings of some of our
friends and laying ourselves open to renewed manifestations of their constant
love and bilious attacks, we cannot refrain from remarking (however egotis
tical it may appear, it's in appearance only, after all): That never in Pitts
burg's Millinery history was there ever such a trade recorded as we've done
this season, and let-up there's nine, increasing every day. Well, we're
ready for all emergencies. All the most advanced styles of Trimmed Mil
linery for Ladies, Misses and Children, whilst in Untrimmed Hats, why
there isn't space enough in The Dispatch to describe their names and at
tributes. Then our assortment of Flowers, Aigrettes, Jets, Prince of Wales
Tips, in all shades and black; the fashionable Scotch Thistle, Straw Braids, ,
and, in fact, everything that will contribute to the elegant, refined, cultured
appearance of high-class, stylish, fashionable Millinery. 1 hen, our trim
mers are all brainy, artistic, United States milliners, each one an adept at
her business. And, to crown all, our" prices (never mind how it's done, it's
done, anyhow) are very much lower than anywhere else. All these facts
strongly and firmly welded together, making one of the most powerful trade
attracting ragnets it ever was the good fortune of anyone to possess. Be
sides paying particular attention to every-day Millinery WE ALWAYS
HAVE A LARGE STOCK LATEST STYLES MOURNING MILLI
NERY. ALSO, MAKE ANY STYLE TO ORDER. MOURNING
VEDLS, ALL LENGTHS WE KEEP A NICE LINE OF IN STOCK.
MISSES' AND CHILDREN'S MHXINERY, AT ALL TIMES NO
MATTER" HOW BUSY WE MAY BE RECEIVES OUR BEST
ATTENTION.
ALWAYS ,
THE
CHEAPEST.
;.
the Season JuBt
Goes to Snow,
Though, That the)
Casn BuyinfcT Cora
munity Win Alwaya
Come to Headquar
ters, Especially,
Also, When Prices
Are Much Lower
Than Anywhere)
Else.
7T vT 7
It's" a generally conceded fact (however bitter
it may be to some of our friends) that we are the
creators, pioneers, promulgators and universally
acknowledged leaders of the Wrapper business of
Pittsburg. By our own jculiar, but pleasing and
business multiplying method of selling cheaper
than other folks (now don't copy this ad or method
please, for they're both COPYRIGHTED) every
month has witnessed such an immense volume of
increase in business, that not only does this depart
ment stand head and shoulders, but towers the
full height of the body above and beyond all
comers. To-day we show more styles of garments
and much bigger variety of material than any three
houses in this part of the country; we care not,
either, how large the houses may be; we know
whereof we speak. Ease, elegance, comfort and
style, combined with our popular low prices, are the
mainstays and levers by which we keep and control
this immense, mammoth Wrapper business.
7 A most desirable and comfortable range of Allen's
Famous Print $2 WraDDers. Dointed vote, nined with solid
GER'S
SIXTH ST.
AND
PENN AVE.
JelT-U
!?&
1
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v