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THE PITTSBUKG- DISPATCH, SUNDAY, JUNE B.
189a
THEYALLWANT1NIT.
Those Who Complain About
the Wliite House Are Sing-.
ing Low Just Now.
IT'S JUST FINE ENOUGH
To Hate the Statesmen Tear Their
Hair to Be Its Occupant.
THE PEESIDEKCI IS A SOFT SNAP.
resides the Salary There Is $1CO,000 for
Banning Expenses.
CAEPIXTER'5 SNAP-SHOTS FROM INSIDE
IC0RBE6POJfDIJfCE Or THI DISPATCH.1
"Washikgtok, June 4.
A great Presidental battle is at hand, and
the "White House is the medal to be awarded
to the winner. Public men say the house
is entirely too small, but I notice those who
get in seldom want to get out, and all who
are out are mighty anxious to get in.
David Hill, bachelor as he is, thinks that
Harrison's bed, which is six feet wide,
would just suit him, and his frugal bach
elor meal could be as well cooked on the
great ranges of the White House kitchens
as upon those of the Arlington Hotel,
where he is stopping.
Mrs. Harrison says the house ought to
have double the number of rooms it has
The Slate Dining Room.
Bow, but she has not yet persuaded the
President to give it up at the close of his
term, and as tor Cullom, McKinley, Tom
Seed and John Sherman, they are boiling
their brains day and night to see if they
cannot get the lease of the mansion for the
next four years. It is the same with the
leading Democratic candidates in all parts
of the country. Boies, of Iowa, is ready to
throw up his farm; Palmer, of Illinois,
would resign from the Senate, and Gray, of
Indiana, thinks the "White House would
just fit him. It is the Bame with Grover
Cleveland, and he knows all about it, for he
spent his honeymoon there, and his wife
knows the establishment from the kitchen
to the attic.
What ths Presidency Amounts To.
The Presidency of the United States is
worth more than most people suppose. They
look upon the fat salary of 530,009 a year
which our Chief Executive gets as his sole
revenue apd every now and then some
newspaper states that it costs ail of this and
more to keep up the establishment. I don't
believe a word about it Nearly every
President saves money while he is in the
"White Houe and the extras which the
President gets are nearly equal to his salary
every j ear. He pays no rent in the first
place and he has a furnished house free. He
has nothing to lay out on light or heat, for
Uncle Sam pays his gas bills and he can
have a wood fire in every room in the house
from morning till midnight and it will not
cost him a cent. He has a grand conserva
tory for nottiiag and the choicest of flowers
are cut and placed in his room and his
tables decorated with roses in the midille of
winter. The country keeps up his library
and he has as m.my servants as he can use.
He never nee Is to write a letter himself and
his high-priced prhate secretary keeps the
crowd awav from him and he has sten
ographers and clerks at his beck and call.
He never needs to open his own door and if
he wishes to shave it will be strange it one
of the colored bovs about the Executive
Mansion cannot skilfullv handle the razor.
The stables which Uncle Sam has built tor
him arc as fine as many a house and his
kitchens are supplied with copper cooking
utensils and his laundry has stationary tubs
and patent washing machines.
Running Exppnsns 8100,000 a Tear.
The cost of keeping up the White House,
including the President's salarv, is more
than f 100,000 a jcar, and notwithstanding
the official troubles of his position its oceu-
The Mutate Veslibu'e.
pant ought to be happy. I have seen many
of the fine houses ot the United State, but
the White Houe has some advantages over
all, and it ought to make a very comfortable
home. Its rooms are all large and the ceil
ings of the first floor must be nearly 20 feet
high. The windows are big and the
house is peifectly ventilated, and though
there are said to be rats in the basement
there is no damp or musty smell about it.
The grounds surrounding it are filled with
old forest trees in which the birds are now
singing their spring songs, and the back
yard, which contains many acres, is rolling
and it has all the natural' beauties of hill
and hollow, and in the center ot a vide
stretch of vehety lawn there is a beautiful
fountain which casts up a spray of silver
and diamonds into the face of the "Washing
ton tun, and the view lrom the rear of the
mansion is one of the finest of the United
States. Looking over a beantifnl park yoo
see the silvery Potomac winding in and'oot
of Its islands of green, and beyond it rise
mmwm
ii IB
the hills of Virginia already covered with
verdure.
The White lipase as It Is.
But let me give you a description of the
"White House in plain common sense words.
The people Rally know but little about it,
and the pictures published of it give only
its outlines. It stands, you know, in front
ot a beautiful park, which, when Washing
ton City was a village, was nscd as a race
track but which is now full of fine old for
est trees. There is a big iron fence fully
ten feet high between the front yard and
the street and the driven ays which lead up
to the front door are of the shape of a half
moon, and pavements of Sag as wide as the
ordinary city sidewalk run along these to
the porte cochere. This pavement is well
In the ConsTvatory.
kept but the asphalt is cracked in places
and in summer it almost blisters your feet
under the sun.
The White House itself covers about one
third of an acre. It is a long, low two
story building with a basement, which at
the front is almost flush with the sidewalk
and which at the back is level with the
lawn and forms almost a third story to the
mansion. You all know that the White
House is of a dazzling, ghastly white, but
it has not that rich, mellow tint of white
marble, and its color is produced by white
lead. The building is made of sandstone,
and it has been painted a;ain and again,
until in some places, it is said, the white
lead upon it is actually a quarter of an
inch thick. The building was modeled
after a castle in Dublin, and with repairs
the total cost of it to-day is something like
52,000,000.
now to Get Into the Ilonsr.
The entrance to the mansion is worth a
description. The porte cochere has a roof
upheld by great stone columns, each as big
around as a flour barrel and it covers a
stone platform or porch so large that it
would furnish the foundation ot the ordi
nary seaside cottage. In the middle of this
porch, between two great windows are the
front doors of the White House. These are
double doors of highly polished walnut and
into each door is set an oval piece of plate
glass with panels of Mosaic glass about it,
and through these the doorkeepers can see
who wish to enter, and if they are danger
ous cranks, can refuse to open the doors. In
one of these door plates a card hangs. This
card is made of tin and upon it in black let
ters is painted.
Open 10 a. x.
Closed 2 p. it.
The White House is always closed to vis
itors after 2 P. 1L, and after this time if you
have important matters and must see the
President, you must use the doorbelf. The
doorbell is of bronze and like the door
knobs it was especially designed for the
White House. These door-knobs are each
as big around as a baseball and they have a
screaming American eagle cut into each of
their brass faces.
A Few Contrasts la Materials.
Passing these doors you come into the
vestibule, and this is a vestibule with a
capital V. It is so big that you could turn
a wagon load of hay around in it without
touching the walls, and the ceiling is so
high that the man who drove the "wagon
could stand up and bis head would not
graze it. At the back of it is a wall of the
finest of glass Mosaic It is made of precious
stones and colored glass and crrstal, and at
night it shines like the jewels of the palace
of Monte Cristo. The floor is of Mosaic
and these beauties come out in striking con
trast to some of their surroundings. There
is for instance at the further doorof the ves
tibule, through which you pass to go to the
President's office; a ?2 walnut um
brella stand, and the wood work of the room
you see is grained to represent black walnut
and is bv no means genuine. Against the
wall there are a couple of 53 wick
er chairs in which the messengers sit, for
this room is for half the day public prop
ertv. The parlors of the White House are on
the ground floor, though there are enough
rooms on the second floor to give a place for
a sitting room, and the bed-rooms are so big
and so airy and have such beautiful views
that any ordinary mortal could sit in them
without getting tired.
Blg;est Parlor In tun Country.
Of the parlors below stairs only the East
Boom is shown to visitors, and it is here
the President holds his noo t receptions.
This is perhaps the biggest parlor in the
United States, and it is a wonder of magnifi
cence. Its walls are of silver and gilt, and
in them are set eight massive mirrors, each
of which is as big as the tops ot two billiard
tables placed side by sidr, and your font
sinks almost up to the ankle in the rich vel
vet carpet which covers the floor. This
room is 80 feet lone and 40 leet wide and it
takes more than 400 yards to carpet it.
The furniture is cushioned not with ex
celsior but with genuine hair, and it is
cohered with the finest of satin. This room
is now lighted by electricity and there are
in the neighborhood of a thousand incandes
cent lights in the mansion. The chandeliers
in the East Boom cost 55,000 apiece, and
each contains 6,000 pieces of the finest
Bohemian glass. Historic paintings hang
upon the walls, and the portraits which look
down at you have cost Uncle Sam in the
neighborhood of 525 an inch.
Room Pap-red Wlih sat'n.
Most of these parlors of the White House
have been creatly improved since the Presi
dent was elected. The Blue Parlor has
been redecorated bvTiffanv, and the entire
wall is now draped in a blue-gray silk fine
enough to make a ball dress tor a million
aire's daughter, and this silk was made at
Paterson, N. J. bilk curtains hang at the
windows, and there is a dado about the
lower part of tho wall which is 'band-painted,
aud the moldings are tinged with gold.
The ceiling has been entirely worked over
by Tiffany, and the chairs and solas are of
cold upholstered in satin. The room has
the same blue tint that it had before, but
under the electrio lights it looks far finer
than it did when Dolly Madison used to re
ceive within it and when Harriet Lane here
held her receptions.
In addition to this is the Bed Parlor,
which is furnished throughout in red and
has fine furniture and many curious pieces
of rare bric-a-brac. The Green Boom has
been rsdecorated and the pink of the
peachblow and a touch ot gilt has been
added to it. The furniture is of gold and
satin, and the long promenade corridor with
its portraits of the Presidents of the past has
been made more beautiful than ever. The
Blue, Bed and Green Booms open into this
corridor and also the East Boom, Conserva
tory and State Dining Boom.
Pat Ton Thouixnd In Ona Room.
I don't know how much it cost to furnish
it, but you may get some idea of the money
spent on the fixing up of the White House
by the fact that the decorations and the
refitting of the East Boom during this ad
ministration are paid to have cost more than
510,000. It would indeed be an extrava
gant woman who would object to' such fur
nishings, and the wives of the various can
didates will not need to brin; any pieces
lrom their homes in order to help out the
White House.
This is equally so as to the dinner table
arrangements. Mrs. Harrison has improved
the looks of the State Dining Boom, and
the private dining room is good enough for
any family. The State Dining Boptri is an
immense apartment and on the nights of
State dinners it now blazes with electrip
rays. It has perhaps the most beautiful
marble mantels in America, which were
carved in Italv, and which have great
mirrors above tbeni. Its big table will seat
50, and Uncle Sam has supplied the Presl.
dent with enough china to dine hundreds
and have a cnange of plates at as many
courses as you will find at the swell dinners
of the Chinese. It is nice to drink out of
cut glass and eat even your buckwheat
cakts and sausage on Dresden plates and
drink your coffee out of the finest of Hav
iland cups.
American China on the Table.
It was Hayes who bought the Haviland
set of china for the White House aud Mrs.
Harrison has added to the china closet
new set of American china which will com
pare with the finest products of Europe or
the Far East. The designs for this china
were made by an American artist Among
the articles in it are an especial oyster plate
service, a dozen soup plates, 12 fis'h plates, a
dinner service of a dozen pieces with a plat
ter, and 12 plates escb for the game course
and the dessert. There are after-dinner
coffee cups and saucers, teacups and saucers
and other pieces all elaborately and appro
priately deconted.
The next President will wipe his mouth
with the finest of damask linen and JTncle
Sam furnishes the napkins and table cloths
for the ruler of his nephews. The napkins
used at the White House at State dinners
are almost as big as table cloths and they
shine like silk and they are very heavy and
thick. The glass used in the White House
is cut glass, aud whether one wants to drink
out of the water goblet or the champagne
glass, or wishes to end his dinner with a
pony of brandy, he can have his esthetio
soul d'lighted by a vessel as white as the
purest diamopd and as thin as an egg shell,
and as he looks into it he will see the Amer
ican eagle engraved upon its side.
Shopping at Uncle Sam's Expense.
Nearly every President buys new linen
for the White House, and one ot the
pleasures of the next first lady of the land
will be the shopping which she can do at
Government expense in replenishing the
linen and china closets of ber establishment.
She will not have the pleasure of doing her
own marketing. That is outof fashion now,
thonsrh President Harrison's grandfather
used to start out every morning and walk
to Georgetown, and pick out the choicest
cuts for his own table. The President now
has a steward, and I don't suppose that
either Mr. or Mrs. Harrison have any
idea of what they are going to eat before
they sit down to the table.
The cooking is all done in the basement,
and Mrs. Harrison has had the whole lower
part ot the establishment renovated. The
kitchen is now tiled both as to floor and as
to the dado of the side walls. When she
came in she found that there were three
rotten wooden floors placed one on top of
the other, and she had these taken out and
these tiled floors put in their place on a
basis of concrete. The laundry of the
White House is a very fine one, and all of
its arrangements are of the best.
A M ord About the Conservatory,
It mnst take nearly half an acre of glass
to cover the flowers of the White House
conservatory. It keeps two men busy all
the time to take care of It, and the finest of
all kinds of flowers from oichlds to roses
are continually in bloom here. There are
broad India rubber plants which are worth
from 550 to 5100 apiece, and there are some
flowers which are absolutely worth tneir
weight in gold. On the night of a White
Houe dinner or reception the whole man
sion is decorated with flowers, and at one
state dinner not long along there was a
floral piece on the table which used 8,000
flowers in its making. At a dinner to the
Supreme Court 2,000 flowers were used to
make a temple of justioe, and at the last
diplomatic reception the mantels of the
parlors were banked up with flowers, and
at another time they were covered with im
mense double tulips rising out banks of
green.
There are many odd things about the
White House. There is a very nice billiard
room down in one corner of the basement,
which if the next President can handle the
cue, will give him a fair chance to play
with bis Cabinet when the good people
think they are discussing the affairs of state,
and there are no end of good wine closets
which can be properly stocked for a consid
eration. The Yl.hlte Honse'wine Closets.
These closets have seen good liquors in
the past. It was in them Andrew Johnson
kept his favorite Bourbon and the sherry of
The While House liiUiard Room.
which he was so fond. Here John Tyler
stored away his Jamaica rum aud the Ma
deira which he imported himself, trading
ship loads of corn from his Virginia planta
tion for it, and it was here that Thomas
Jeflerson had bottled up the 511,000 worth
of champagne and other liquors wtiich he
served up while he was in the White House.
Jefferson spent more on liquors than any
other President on record, but Arthur was
noted for his fine wines, and Andrew Jack
son spent a pretty penny on pnnch during
his administration.
In the President's business office you will
find a hall dozen clerks, and you oan reach
out vour finger and touch any part of the
world. There is a telegraph operator whose
key is connected with the cable and tele
graph wires of the United States, and there
is a clerk who does but little else than at
tend to the newspapers, and the President
gets his newspapers from everywhere, and
all the leading journals are to found here.
In one large room there are a number of
clerks and among these is Colonel Crook,
the cashier of the White House, and there
are numerous typewriters and other em
ployes. There is an elevator in the White
House, and, all in all, the old mansion is
packed full of interesting things.
Fkank G. Cabpeuteb.
THE CZAR'S QUEER SUIT,
It Is Nothing Morn Thin a Homespnn, and
he Colors Lichen and Indigo.
Buffalo Epqntrer.
The Czar of all the Bussias has had made
for him a rather queer suit, nothing less
than a suit of homespun tweed. The cloth
is of the usual Highland kind a homely
looking tartan, in which the prevailing
colors are lichen and indigo. The Czar gave
the order for the suit because his father, the
late Czar, bad for nurse a Boss or Mull girl
named Catherine McKinnon, who by some
stroke of luck found her way into the im.
fierial family ot Bussia, and so commended
lerself to her roVal employers that recollec
tions ol her services remain in the family to
this day. So it happened that the Czar
ordered the Mull-spun tweed suit woven
within a few miles ot the cot where Cather
ine McKinnon spent ber childhood. Had
Catherine lived in an earlier age she might
have been Czarina and the mother, not th
nurse of emperors, for the great Catherine
was of as lowly an origin as this cotter girl
from Mull.
Why be pestered with roaches, bedbugs,
etc., when Bugine will banish them eter
nally! 2$ cents at all dealers.
Ojjtx Awjfiaos Entirely new and fast In
color and exquisite In designs, at Marxian x
a, eon-a, wa i-enn avenue, xei.- uns. wsu
CARPETS IN AMERICA.
Statistics Showing the Remarkable
Growth of the Industry,
A SUBSTITUTE FOE CAOUTCHOUC,
Curing Mercurial Poisoning by Iodide of
Potassium and Milk.
APPARATUS FOE PREVENTING BMOKB
rWTUTTIK TOB TOT DISPATCH.!
A remarkable growth has taken place in
the carpet industry in this country during
the last 30 years. In 1860 the hand loom
was in its prime throughout Kensington,
where the power loom was looked upon
more as an experimental curiosity than a
practical aid to labor. Usually the employe
worked side by side with his weaver, who
earned good wages and was as much re
spected among his neighbors as a high-class
merchant now is. -Skilled Englishmen,
Scotchmen and Irishmen all found ready
employment and a prompt return for
their labor. The total number of
factories in the United States was 213, but
the product amounted to onlv about 13,000,-
000 yards, valued at nearly 88,000,000, an in
crease of 2,500,000 over the output in 1850.
In 1870 the number of factories was only
increased by three, but the amount of the
product swelled to 32,000,000 yards, valued
at about $22,000,000, with an invested capi
tal of $12,500,000, Wages on hand looms be
gan to' decrease owing to the competition of
the power looms. In 1882 the capital in
vested in the industry was upward
of $25,000,000, involving 340 establish
ments (including many small concerns not
factories, strictly speaking), in which there
were over 5,000 hand looms, 4,200 power
looms and 22,000 operatives. The total out
put was 62,000,000 yards, valued at $50,500,
000. Ot this over 27,000.000 yards were
ingrain (one-half of which was the cheap
cotton grade), 14,000,000 tapestry and
8,500,000 body brusselsand wilton. The
estimated increase in the number of factor
ies from 1850 to to 1880 was over 80 per
cent; in capital 20 per cent, and in the num
ber of employes 8 per cent, the latter
mainly an increase in the number of fe
males employed, rendered possible by the
introduction of the power loom. Wages
had increased 20 per cent.
In 1890 a considerable change was found.
Hand looms had practically disappeared,
and the factories, though numbering only
about 150, had been greatly enlarged, and
ran, in the aggregate, something over 8,000
power looms. The total output in that year
was about 85,000,000 yards (excluding mo
quettes), valued at over $54,000,000, which,
with the $3,000,000 worth of moquette, made
only in New York and Massachusetts,
bronght the grand total to $57,000,000. Of
the 85,000,000 yards 47 were inzrain, 20)4
tapestry (brussels and velvet), and 17 body
brussels and wilton. Philadelphia produces
over halt of this, 46,000,000 yards, valued at
$29,000,000; New Yorfc, 19,000,000, valuedat
$13,500,000, and Massachusetts, 13,500,000
yards, valued at $10,000,000. The cheapen
ing of the product and the consequent in
crease in the per capita consumption, which
is tenfold greater than in I860, is the direct
result ot improvements in machinery. Pine
tapestries and brussels can now be obtained
at the former cost of the rudest ingrain.
The enormous product, 85,000,000 yards, is
consumed entirely at home, making a per
capita consumption of nearly a yard ana a
half, tar more than in any foreign countrv.
The standard of carpet designs has vastly
improved of late years. Designers' wages
range from $10 to $20 per week, and a good
design will sell all the way lrom $20 to $50.
A Steam Tree Feller.
According to a London technical journal,
a tree feller and oross-cut saw of exceptional
merit is now on the market The new tool
can be fixed to any tree and ready for action
in less than two minutes. As the smaller
size, which will fell trees up to four feet in
diameter at the butt, weighs less than four
hundred weight, it can readily be carried
about by four men. It works with incredi
ble rapidity, sawing down an oak or elm
tree three feet in diameter in less than five
minutes, and witha gang of four men one
machine will easily fell eight trees, aver
aging 30 inches in .diameter, in an hour, in
cluding the time occupied in movjng and
fixing. As the machine will work in any
position it can be used to fell trees growing
on slopes, and by simply shitting the work
ing parts into another frame it becomes an
excellent cross-cut saw for cutting logs to
any length as they lie on the ground. All
the working parts are Bimple, and any intel
ligent man can apply the instructions sup
plied. The machine eonslsts of a steam cylinder
of small diameter, having a long stroke at
tached to a light wrought iron frame upon
which it is arranged to pivot on its center,
the pivoting motion being worked by a
hand wheel turning on a worm, which gears
into a quadrant cast on the back of the cyl
inder. The saw is fixed direct to the end of
the piston rod, which is made to travel in a
true line by guides, and the teeth of the
sau are of such a form as to cut only during
the inward stroke. By this simple device
saws as long as nine feet or ten leet can be
worked without any straining apparatus or
guide, as its own cut is sufficient to guide
the saw in a straight line through the tree,
and as the teeth offer no resistance to the
outward stroke all possibility of the saw
buckling is avoided. The machine is sup
plied with steam at a high pressure from a
small portable boiler, through a strong flex
ible steam pipe; and as this may be of con
siderable length, the boiler may remain in
one place until the machine has cut down
all the trees with a radius that is deter
mined by the length ot the pipe. The
ground oleared by the tree feller can be left
absolutely level, for by simply removing a
sod 4U inches thick the saw' works on the
ground line, and consequently tut stumps
do not obstruct the passage of carts, etc.
The smaller sizd machines will cut down
almost any ordinary tree, but a larger size
is made equal to the felling ot trees of six
feet to eight feet diameter at the butt
Antidote for Mercurial Poisoning;,
Employes in certain departments of in
candescent lamp factories, and in other in
dustries in which mercury is extensively
employed, will rejoice in the discovery of
an effective antidote tor mercury poisoning.
Mercury and its compounds are universally
known to have a most injurious influence
on the human system, and the shake, the
shortness of breath, the sickening pallor,
the listlessness .and semi-stuplflcation of
operators who are daily subjected to its
fumes are sadly familiar to those connected
with the pump rooms of lamp factories.
Much has been done to improve the health
ot the workmen by means of ventilation and
improved machinery and pumps, but still
the evil exists to a serious extent Slight
cases are usually and quickly cured by
change of air or ot work, but if not taken in
time the trouble may end fatally.
It is not always, however, that a work
man can afford either to take change ot air
or turn his hand to a, pew employment, and
here the new remedv comes in. Some four
years ago one of the partners of a large
Parisian incandescent lamp manufacturing
firm became salivated while experimenting
with mercury pumps, aad he cured himself
completely by means ot small doses of
iodide of potassium dissolved in milk. He
next administered similar doses ta some
workmen in his lamp factory, who were
suffering from mercury poisoning, and they
quickly and completely recovered. In his
present factory, into which he moved a
year age, there has not been a single case of
salivation, and this exemption is attributed
to the tact that doses of iodide have been
continuously administered to the workmen.
Men from other factories have been taken
in who on entering exhibited the character
istic signs of mercury poisoning, and who
reeorered forthwith. The dully dose snp
plied by the firm to each man is 25 grammes
of the crystallized salt, dissolved in about
400 cubic centimeters of milk. It has been
sdggested that an improvement in practice
would be to increase the dose in summer,
when cases of salivation ae much more fre
quent, and to diminish it during the cooler
months of the year, but tbepresent method
appears to meet all requirements, and the
distressing malady is now robbed of its
terrors.
New Xnnd Cleaning; Machine.
A novel way of promoting the fertiliza
tion of land by .the utilization of Its weed
growth is adopted in a new land oleaning
machine. The principle of the machine is
to root np all the weeds, scrub, eta, and
pass them at once through a doable blast
fire by means of a traveling engine. The
frame is mounted on four traveling wheels
and carries a small steam engine, on the
right of which is a blower. On its left is a
brick hearth, fitted in an iron frame, which
forms a fire retainer. The weeds are con
ducted to the fire by a gradual incline, and
after they have passed through a fire re
tainer, which is kept at an intense heat by
the blast of the blower, they are deposited
on the soil. The engine, with which, it is
claimed, from four to eight acres a day can
be cleaned, ean be had from six to eight
horse-power, and, with the machine, re
quires two men when In operation.
Barning Glasses in Stare Windows.
A chemical journal warns pharmacists
and all others who have occasion to display
anything in the nature of a lens in their
windows that, as the season changes, the
sun's rays may fall directly into windows
which they did not reach during the winter,
and therefore it would be well to bear in
mind the possibility of fire being kindled
through this agency, and take precautions
accordingly. That the show globes in a
"burning glasses" is proved by one case in
which the woodwork of a window was
effectually charred by the sunlight concen
trated on it through a globular show bottle,
Snbstltnte for Caoutchouc.
A recent investigation of the solid prod
ucts which result lrom the oxidation of dry
ing oils shows that the absorption of oxygen
produced new fatty acids and an jnsoluable
oxy-eompound termed "linoxin." This ma
terial swells up on boiling with acetone or
acetic ether, forming an elastic mass, and in
other respects resembles caoutchouc. On
the strength ot this discovery it is believed
that from oxidized oil a material that would
make a good substitute for caoutchouo
could be obtained.
The Prevention of Smoke.
The latest system of smoke prevention in
volves the nse of the combined apparatus of
two inventors. One invention consists of
fireclay arches through which the combined
air and gasses are passed, and which, becom
ing .incandescent, cause the smoke to be
consumed. The other principle is the in
duction of a low pressure current of air by
means of steam jets, and the two devices
combined give a very good result, more
especially when applied to steam boilers.
Foreign Bodies in the Throat.
An English navy surgeon cites an old
method ot removing foreign bodies from
the throat, such as pieces of meat or other
solid food, as one of the best-known means
ol effecting the desired result This simple
mode of relief is to blow forcibly into the
ear. Powerful reflex action is thus excited,
during which the foreign body is expelled
from the trachea.
Paste for Ttaior Strops.
The manufacturers of razor strops have al
ways taken gregt care to keep secret the
nature of the composition used in the manu
facture of their special commodity. This
material is now declared to be composed of
coke, ground to an impalpable powder,
made Into a paste with tat and perfumed
with an ethereal oik
THE HETBIC SYSTEM.
Efforts of the Decimal Association to Intro
dace It In England.
The new Decimal Association, whose
headquarters are at Botolph House, East
cheap, London, has memorialized the Lords
of the Committee of Council on Education
on the advisability of taking an important
step in connection with the introduction of
the metric system in this country. The
May examinations of the Science and Art
Department are known through the length
and breadth of the land, and much has been
done by means of these examinations to
popularize nnd extend technical study.
The memorial which has been presented
recommends that in certain of the science
examinations, alternative questions be
given in future, based on the metric system
of measurement, whic) may be taken at the
option of the candidate in lieu of questions
based on feet and inches.
In this way, the large and intelligent
class ot candidates for certificates of the
Department will be induoed to learn the
metrio system. Tho Committee of Council
on Education has already ordered that the
principles of this system should be taught
in the higher standards of all elementary
schools; and one of the steps taken by the
School Board of London and other towns in
consequence of this order has been to fur
nish the pupil teachers and advanced
scholars with boxwood rules, having a deci
malized inch scale aud a metric scale in
juxtaposition. In addition to this, colored
wall charts of the metric weights and
measures are used, and in this way the ris
ing generation will to n great extent be
prepared for the introduction ot these
weights and measures which is expected in
the near future.
THE SECBET OF FASCINATING.
Fill Toar Heart "With Good Will and Prac
tice the IJpst Manners.
Et. Joseph. Mo., Gazette.
Doubtless thousands of yonng people, and
pot a small number of old ones, wish every
day of their lives that they could learn the
secret of fascinating others by means of
their graceful, exquisite manners. The
secret is an open one. It is so easy to learn
that it lies all neglected by the wayside,
while they who would give their dearest
treasure to find it pass by unknowing.
It is only this: Pill you heart with good
will to everybody and then practice at all
times the best manners yon know, particu
larly at home. If you begin at home this
charming manner will, so to speak, get set
tled on you ana never leave you. Be just
as polite to yonr sister as you would to your
best girl. Strive to gain the good will of
mother, father and brothers and sisters and
children exactly as you strive to gain good
will abroad.
There is no place for practicing manners
like the home circle; no place, permit one
to say, where it will be so Appreciated. It
will be a cultivation of beart, mind and
body, this endeavor to ieel nothing but af
fection lor the home people and treat them
as though they were worthy ot as much con
sideration at your bands as. if they were the
President and his family. So they are
worthy. Then from the home wl)l float out
around you thosesweet, magnetic influences
which will draw the hearts of all mankind
toward you.
It Is GoodI
The more Chamberlain's Cough Bemedy
is used the better it is liked. We know gf
no other remedy that always gives satisfac
tion. It is good when you first catch cold.
It is good when your cold is seated and
yonr lungs are sore. It is good in any kind
of a cough. We haye sold 25 dozen of it
and every bottle has given satisfaction.
Btcdman & Friedman, druggists, Minne
sota Lake, Minn. wan
MEN DRESS IN TASTE.
As a Rule Their Costumes Are Ahead
of Women's in This fiespeci.
WHAT CONSTITUTES A NOVELTY.
The Utility of the Necktie Is the Secret of
Its Appearance.
SUITS THAT AEB PS0PEE JUST NOW
rWRTTTElT FOB THE DISFJLTCB.1
Borne special study of men's costnmes
forces the unexpected conclusion that in
certain points the
average man is dressed
in better taste than
the average woman.
This inference sounds
surprising in view ot
swallow tails, trousers
and bell hats, but it is
not meant to apply to
.general forms, but to
V refinements ot line,
T7 proportion and color
J? inside the prescribed
ihapes.
A TioJtuii Be Use-id. The reason for it is
plain enough. A man's garments are
limited to a few pieces, whose general form
and colors are practically fixed, so that
there is nothing for the artistic tailor to do
bat to labor at improving these forms and
in making certain low-toned colors har
monize more and more agreeably. The
man's costumer does not have his energies
dissipated in devising a novelty for each
new pattern, but his force is directed season
after season to perfecting, by his best lights,
Sex of the Turn-Dovm Collar.
the patterns already in hand. Thus it is
that the best dress of men reaches an ele
gance that the dress of few women attain.
If many of the forms of a man's costnme
are wrong from the (esthetic standard, some
of them are right, and all have had infinite,
though sometimes misdirected, pains be
stowed on them.
Thn Definition of a Novelty.
It speaks worlds for the situation to note
what a slight change in men's wear is called
a novelty. The tailors are at present saying
that the latest English fad for morning
coats is undressed worsted. This is only a
variety in the finish of cloth. It' takes
something as startling as an electrio shock
to be accounted a noveltv in a woman's
wardrobe. The fashionable materials for
lounge suits are rough laced Scotch and
English tweeds, in pronounced checks and
fine stripes; tropical worsted suitings and
the undressed worsted just mentioned,
cheviots also, that are in a wide wale popu
lar clays, serges in blue and b'ack, and
homespuns in the lightest tints of all
colors.
Trouserings to go with these are in nar
row stripes and fine checks. Extremely
light or extremely dark shades are chosen
in preference to medium ones.
For top coats there are two distinct styles.
The covert coat, in Venetians and in covert
coatings, in all the shades of tan, made very
short, with strap seams, and collar of the
sme without facing. It is lined through
out with silk. The alternative coat reaches
below the knee, and is made of fine whip
cord, light weight kersey, cheviot or angola,
in gray, light tan, blue or black. It is
lined with silk faced to the edge; the seams
are plain and the collar i of the same ma
terial. The Styles in Mornln Coats.
For morning coats diagonals and cork
screws have been almost cast aside. In
their place are used angolas, fine twills and
cheviots, all in extremely soft finish. They
are made longer than usual in both waist
and skirt, and button medium low. The
seams are plain and the edges are finished
Bl use Bui' and Cow or Tuxedo Coat.
with either narrow single stitching or a fine
Bilk cord. The preferred vest is single
breasted with a notch collar.
For evening dress at watering places will
be seen often, in place ot the swallow tail,
the Cowes or Tuxedo coal, known to the
trade as the sacque coat with shawl roll.
We give a picture of this coat. Tha collar
is faced with heavy corded silk. This is tne
cost for wearing which, on a full dress oc
casion. Berry Wall was some time ago
ejected from a hotel drawing room. The
coat has made headway since, out is consid
ered only an elegant drmi-dress.
Outing suits are of lisht weight cheviots
with a line stripe of color, or of plaid home
spnn. The sack coat is somewhat loose fit
ting and without lining. The shirt is of
fancy-colored cheviot or Oxford cloth.
Such shirts have the collar and cuffs laun
dered stiff, and the besom soft Sanhes will
hardly be worn this Eeason. They became
too popular last y- ar to suit fastidious men.
Belts will take their place.
A blouse outing suit, as illustrated, is a
regular plaited white sash with belt passing
under the plaits. The breeches reach just
over the knees. Flannel shirt, ribbsd wool
stockings, canvas shoes and sott felt hat
complete this dress.
lhf hole Suit MlknKoir.
It has long been the fashion to make the
trousers contrast in color and material with
the coat and vest, but far more elegance Is
attained when the whole suit is alike; for,
however utility may be served by the
division, the refined eye is displeased by
seeing the body cut in two pieces.
The full-crowned derby with flat brim
and narrow end is the newest morning hat,
though a tew New York bankers and brokers
wear the silk hat to business. Gloves are
plain-backed this season, which is an im-:
provement, and canes must be of natural
wood, though they may at option have a
trace of silver trimming. Long and horn
handles are used also, aud the ultra sticc is
called the "Prince ot Wales CroSk."
About neckwrar volumes might be writ
ten. It is a detail, but yet it is the objective
point of the dress. A great deal of it that
is popular is ugly, and for reasons which
tpfi
ean he easily demonstrated. The best yon
can do, gentlemen, with the limited ma
terial you allow yourselves, is to wear the
straight collar with rolled over, or broken,
points fashion makes it high this season
and either the straight tie or the flowing
Ascot scarf.
There are other collars and other ties, but
let us have a look at them.
A Ton-Down Collar on St Woman.
There is the Byron collar, which turns
down all round. The handsomest man alive
cannot afford to wear it Why? Because
The Ou.'aumy and Platd Cheviot Saek.
it is a hard inclined plane, that does not
fall in with the lines of the body, but swears
at them all, and cuts straight toward the
neck' with a threat of decapitation. Now a
woman, when she wears a turn-over collar,
has it fashioned in such a way that its lines
flow with the adjacent lines of the throat
and shoulder. At least she does except
when in an occasional fit of abberration she
tries to imitate man. Here her taste proves
the superior. Don't scoff at this stricture,
dar gentlemen, and say that you bate the
pretty. If you do, in such dislike I bear
you company. But this is not a question of
the pretty, but solely of harmonious rela
tions, a thing that you hold to be vastly im
portant in other matters.
As to ties. The four-in-hand is the most
popular, but let it alone, friends. There
are several things the matter with it In
the first place a sailor knot, which.it virtu
ally is, pre-supposes something to be strong
ly fastened, and no one will pretend that
the linen collar.has any look ot being held
togetherby this tie. It is too hopelessly
moulded, and the tie is too evidently use
less. It is lined and interlined, so that it
locks swollen, or like a finger done up in a
bandage, and has not even the grace of pre
tended use.
The appearance of use is the test of a tie,
and this quality is manifested by the puck
ers of the cloth as they pass into the knot
and emerge again. But what demented
brain originated the idea of a stuffed tie?
Evidently It is intended for pure show. But
whatashowl It has no beauty; it makes a
straight line down the front ot the shirt and
causes the head to look as if held upon a
stick, like a harlequin's wand.
The Utility or a Fin.
Now, into this tie if yon fasten an orna
mental pin, von complete an effect that is
abominable beyond redemption. The pin is
useless and you cannot place it anywhere
on the tie to make it look anything but
superfluous. If this tie says anything at
all, it proclaims itself securely fastened,and
the pin if there is there for show and show
alone; and therefore, though worn by the
most fastidious man, it cannot be anything
but vulgar. Take time to think about this,
gentlemen.
It is significant to note that at present
every roan ot fashion ties his own cravat,
and takes care that the tie shows the
wearer's manipulation of it This seems to
be a movement -toward getting rid ot the
stiffness that makes the ordinary four-in-hand
so ugly, and is an indication of grow
ing taste.
The white four-in-hand, somewhat nar
row, is seen often on young men of the
Stock Exchange, but men of taste do not in
feneral wear white ties in the morning,
he flowing ascot is the fashionable scarf.
It is tied into the smallest knot possible
and below (he knot is spread out over much
space. One might think this knot necessi
tates a narrow tie, but on the contrary the
tie is of extraordinary width, but of very
soft silk, and this is the secret of the fash
ionable ascot One needs to pay about $1 50
for a tie to get the best effect. Dark and
rich colors are fashionable. The straight
tie is much worn by fashionable men of re
finement." From the standpoint of taste it
is one of the best ties made. It does not
carry the eye np and down the axis of the
body as the four-in-hand does, and asks at
tention alone to the knot, as a tie should.
With black clothes may be agreeably
worn ties having black grounds and lines
and figures of color, and colors so broken
may have considerable brightness. With
tan clothes a black tie looks well; red with
tan makes too warm a combination; but if
one must have color with tan choose a very
much mixed, low tone green, one that
verges on citron. Asa Bache-Cose.
KO.I E1NG, CKACKL1NG AUD BUZZING.
Catarrh of thn Middle Ear.
Catarrh of the middle ear, even after
serious deafness has been produced, is cura
ble by a taithful use of Pe-ru-na.
Mr. Frederick Bierman, of McComb City,
Miss., had chronic catarrh very badly for
many years. The disease finally passed up
the eustachian tube into the middle ear,and
had almost destroyed his hearing. He has
been taking Pe-ru-na but a short time, nnd
his catarrh is very much better, and he
hears again as well '& anyone.
Mr. W. D. Stokes, Baton Rouge. La.,
writes: ''I had chronic catarrh very badly,
noise in the ears, and nearly deaf. I used
your Pe-rn-na according to directions and
am now well; can hear the tick of a watch
ten feet Your Pe-ru-na is a wonderful
medicine."
Mr. J. W. McRobert, of Mason, Mich.,
box 15G, writes February 25, 1891: "My
wife had been afflicted with catarrh of the
head for fifteen years, and was cured by
taking three bottlee of Pe-ru-na."
The eustachian tubes are small tubes,
about two inches long, leading from
the upper and back part ot the throat to the
middle ear. It anything happened to ob
struct the eustachian tubes hearing is very
much impaired, if not entirely destroyed.
Catarrh of the tnroat most commonly fol
lows cp these little ducts to the middle ear,
thickening their mucous linings so as to
completely or partially close them up, pro
ducing partial deafness. The roaring and
crackling sounds which catarrh subjects so
frequently complain of is due to the spread
of catarrh of these tubes.
Pe-ru-na is the best, if not the only,
remedy that will cure these cases. Taken
regularly according to the directions on the
bottle the symptoms gradually disappear
until a compfete cure is the result In some
cases it takes months to effect a cure, while
in others only weeks are required.
Coldi, coughs, bronchitis, sore throat and
pleurisy, ere all catarrhal affections, and
consequently are quickly curable by
Pe-ru-na. Each bottle of Pe-ru-na is ac
companied by lull directions for use, andis
kept.by most druggists. Get your druggist
to order it tor you if he does not alreadr
keep it A pamphlet on the cause and cure
of all catarrhal diseases and consumption
sent free to any address by the Pe-ru-na
Drug ManufacturingCa, Columbus, O.
Mb. Moses Price, of this place, has
been troubled with rheumatism for a long
time. He savs Chamberlain's Pain Balm
has eured him and that the Balm has no
equal. Hnnecker Bros.) Loraine, O. One
application will relieve the pain, 50-cent
bottles for sale by druggists. "WSn
Doa'T allow your house to become overrun
with roaenes, Dedburs. etc. Clean them out
with Bujlne; It never falls, acts.
HAS OYER 1,000 SUITS.
Emperor William Is the World's Most
Elaborately Dressed Man.
EVERYTHING MUST BE SKIN-TIGHT.
Tailors and Shoemakers Fear the Zccentrie
Monarch's Temper.
CAN MAKE HIS TOILET IK EIGHTMIKUTES
rcoBRisroxnEvcx or thb DisM.TCB'.t
Beelet, May 21 The wardrobe of no
modern sovereign has attracted more atten
tion than that of the German Emperor. On
all his recent travels, wherever he went, he
became conspicuous by his continual change
of dress, Of course, the Emperor has oftener
the occasion to change his costume than an
ordinary mortal. He might arrive, for
instance, in Kiel, the chief German port of
war, in traveling costume, review tha
marine in the uniform of a German admiral,
thenvisit the various schools in civiliaa
dress, dine on a foreign man-of-war in the
uniform of an admiral of its nationality and
in the evening give a reception in some gala
dress. The Emperor is known to have mads
as many as 10 or 13 changes in 18 hours.
Those who have become acquainted with the
fact do not know whether to excuse it as a
whim or attribute it to extreme nervous
ness. That his wardrobe under these cir
cumstances has reached gigantic dimensions
is easy enough to understand. It contains
at present over 1,000 dresses. They are
divided into six classes:
The Emporor's Dlffarent Costnm.s.
1. Military costumes, inclndf ng all tha dif
ferent uniforms of the highest rantcsoftha
German army, with a collection of modern
Bwords which has hardly Us equal in
Germany.
2. Court dresses, nnder which category all
the dresses for creat ceremonies are classi
fied excepting the coronation robes with
scepter and crown, which are taken care of
specially. It includes also the uniforms of
all tha different orders, like tho order of
the Black Eagle, of the Garter, etc., as also
the costnme for the Torchlight- Polonaise at
great festivals, which is entirely of silk with
kneepants and gartered hose.
8. Civilian dresses araoni which the dress
snits and high colored walking costnmes of
English cut play a leading part: it contains,
besides every piece of dress that is worn by
tashionable men at present, with thn excep
tion of a dressing crown which the Emperor
never wears. lie rarely uses fine smoking
Jackets. To this category also belong the
lncosnlto dresses and the free Mason's
costnme.
1. Sport dresses, which Include bathing,
riding, driving, sleighin? and skating cos
tumes and then the lare numberof hunt
ing costumes from the Tyroleso to the Bus
elan fnr gear forbear bunting.
B. Dresses of courtesy contain all the uni
forms of foielgn regiments whose honorary
ohtef he is, besides all the costnmes he Is
obliged to don in visiting foreign court. It
being a onstom on such occasions for the
visitor to appear in the host's favorite cos
tnme and vice versa at the first meeting.
Even Chinese and Japanese court dresses
are not forgotten. The only national court
costnme he has not worn 1 the French. Of
all these costnmes a duplicate exists in case
of an accident
6. Underwear and minor articles.
Minor Essentials of His Toilet.
There are 12 dozen of every piece of
underwear, and of socks and handkerchiefs
no less than CO dozen. As he does not cars
for silk, his underwear is of merino, with
the exception ot the socks, which are of
silk. His handkerchiefs are of batiste, and
as a rule he uses them but once. A number
ot embroiderers are employed all the year
round to make the initials, etc.
As he is not fond of jewelry his wardrobe
only contains a limited selection of cuS
buttons and studs, all in gold and diamonds.
The nnmber of gloves, on the contrary, is
very large; there are chamois gloves for
driving, beaver for riding, dogskin, whits
lambskin and the innumerable white kid
gloves for uniforms that are worn but once.
In eivilian dress he uses gloves of a dis
tinctly different color to the suit
He has a number of canes that are but
seldom used, and, strange to cay, the um
brellas are but three in number, which
have been kept elosed so long that they
would surely appear streaked if opened
accidentally. The Emperor never uses one
as he has really no opportunity, either
riding or driving oat, and then generally in
uniform.
And who has the care of this gigantia
wardrobe? A special system of manage
ment has been introduced, which has been
so well regulated to its smallest details that
it works like a clock. The marshal of his
domestic affairs superintends the wardrobe.
It it his duty to make himself acquainted
with the latest fashions and suggest them to
the Emperor, nho is in no way an inventive
mind in fashions, and rather follows other
authorities, choosing'what he deems best
Like Tlghl-Flttln? Clothes.
The Emperor, however, has decided likes
and dislikes. Everything must be tightly
fitting; the trousers scarcely touch tha
boots: he has also a great aversion for the
short overcoats and narrow, pointed shoes.
When he was Invited by the Emperor of
Austria to hunt in the Tyrolese mountains,
he gave the order for several suits worn by
the Tvrolese mountaineers. The marshal
remarked to the Emperor that, although
His Majesty could boast of a well-built
figure, he would not look to advantage in
the tight-fitting knee-breeches, mountain
shoes and gaiters, leaving the knee bare, of
the Tyrolese. To which the Emperor
brusquely replied: "Don't trouble yourself
about my taste. If I order a thing, it
means that it has to be done."
All the leading tailors of the larger cities
offer their services with (he greatest induce
ments, and are triumphant if they get at
least one order, as it entitles theii, after
filling it satisfactorily, to the right of ad
vertising themselves: "Tailor to His Maj
esty," etc. Four times a year the Marshal
himself takes the Emperor's measare, not
only tor costumes but also for shoes, gloves
and hats, providing for any changes that
might have taken place in his majesty's
figure. For boots and shoes (slippers ho
never wears) the annnal expenses amount
to 20,000 marks. They are made by the
best shoemakers and bear on the soles, like
every other piece of his dress, except the
incognito costumes; the Hohenzollern coat
of arms.
They Fear 'WIIhHm'f Tnrapnr,
As the Emperor very easily loses his
temper in matters concerning his toilet, the
shoemakers are in continual fear that one or
the other might not fit perfectly well tha
first time, which would undoubtedly result
in their iosing their high customer.
He never stays more than a week in a
place, so his costumes are stowed away in
rosewood and ebony chests, in the care of
twp valets, the body servants ot the Em
peror, one of whom is an old man and has
been in the service of the Emperor since
the latter was a little boy, so is perfectly
acquainted with his idiosyncrasies.
The valets have a number ot servants
nnder them, who dnst the clothes, clean the
shoes and polish the swords and buttons,
which in the uniforms arc all pure gold.
Special c;re is devoted to the galoons and
epaulettes, which are alyays covered with
ttssue paper.
Excepting hair dressing and shaving, ths
Emperor has no immediate use of assist
ance in dressing. A toilet table, covered
with an array of tools, a collection ot bot
tles and glasses ot old Bohemia, little in
struments, files, nail polishers, curved,
straight and pointed scissors, most of them
in ivory aud silver, accompanies him on all
his travels. Besides keeping these in order
the valet has to lay out every article of
dress ready and arranged in a certain order
in which the Emperor is used to don them.
He dresses with great rapiditv, never taking
more than 20 minutes to his toilet in ths
morning, and is known to have made sa
entire change in eight minutes.
C Satjakiciii Haetmauk.
W$ pack, hanl, store, ship, repair, reflnlsh
and reuDholster furniture,
-wan Haeqh & Kxsx.nr, 33 Water street
l
I i
,M
-JfrmJ!im&
".