31
THE FITTSBtfRC? DISPATCH, SUNDAY, MAY "29, 1892.
POLISH JR GIRLS,
"What It Costs to Put One
Through, the IsTew York
Boarding Schools.
SOME TERY ODD CHAEGES.
Church Pew Hire and Fees for Chap
erons Swell the Bills.
HIGH-COST TfilVATE TEACHIKC.
Jrt and JJusic at From $2 to $5 Per Hour
for Instruction.
GYMNASIUM WORK IN LONG DRESSES
ITVItlTTEX FOR TIIE DIsrATCB.1
New York is the sir's boarding school
city of America. There are in the neighbor
hood of 50 boarding schools for girls, non
sectarian in character, big and little, fashion
able and plain, and they have about 1,000
pupils, gathered together from every State
in the Union. The great "Western, Xorth
eEtern and Southern cities send by far the
largest number.
As a rule the local schools in the .'arge
cities are recruited from the smaller towns
in their particular vicinities. As, for
instance, those in Boston draw from the
2Cew England States; those in Pittsburg
from "Western Pennsylvania, and those iu
Chicaco from Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, "Wis
consin and Michigan.
There are many reasons why Xew York
holds supremacy as a boarding school
center. The metropolis offers special ad
vantages to the girl who can afford to pay
for them. If she wishes to ptudy music
here are the great teachers, singers, players,
conservatories, choirs, organs, concerts,
oratorios and the opera. If she intends to
make a special study of art, here are the
great private picture collections, the exhi
bitions, art schools, the Metropolitan
Museum of Art and the studios of the
greater painters.
Trench the Language of the Schools.
These advantages, not the schools them
selves, are what attract so many girls to
Kew York. A metropolitan boarding
school is very little different from a well-
A BAD WAY TO JTANt
GYMNKJIVM PRACTICE
Physical Culture.
appointed institution of a similar character
in any large city. The curriculum is the
same in the main, and the teachers are gen
erally equally well-equipped and efficient
in their methods. As a rule all the schools
receive dav pupils as well as boarders, and
indeed in Xew York the day pupils lorm by
far the greater number of scholars.
French is usually spoken during school
hours where it is possible. The classes are
equally divided into primary, intermediate
and advanced departments, which answer
to the primary, grammar and high classes
in the common school system. The last
course either "finishes" the girl's school
education, or it prepares her to enter the
women's annexes of Harvard or Columbia,
or else one of the leading colleges for
women, such as Smith, "Wcllesley or Yassar.
The course is always laid out with special
reference to the length of time the girl ex
pects to continue her studies. These
methods are the same whether the school
be in Kew York or San Francisco, Boston
or SavannaK
llir Cost of Hoarding Schools.
The cost of tuition, save in certain
branches which I shall refer to later on,
varies in this city from $700 to 900 a year.
This generally includes school books. In
some schools a further sum of $50 is re
quired for the use of the books, chemical
apparatus, etc Laundry is charged for at
cost prices. Here is a list of terms which
has been adopted by the six highest-priced
boarding schools in this city. It will make
my meaning plain:
Board and tuition In all branches, $900.
eat In chuich, use or piano and laundry
woi k at cot
Pupils expected to furnish towels, table
napkins, single sheets and pillow cases.
A deposit Is required, to meet incidental
expenses appioved by parents.
1 he terms for instruction In music, draw
ing, dancing ana riding depend unon the
masters employed.
The poorest girl fares precisely the same
as the richest in the classroom and in the
dining hair, and the primary pupil pays the
same as the advanced pupil who is prepar
ing for college, so lar as the classroom, tu
ition and board are concerned.
It is the "extras" which vary in price
according to the means and desires of the
pupil. To learn what these "extras" are
and how much they cost, I have visited half
a dozen of the largest, schools in the city
anJ have received special information from
over 30 more.
Tho Cost of a Seat I n Church.
The cost of a sitting in a church depends
entirely upon the place of worship. In
many of the leading churches the sittings
are lree and seats are regularly assigned to
applicants who make a weekly contribution
according to their means. In other churches,
such as Dr. John Hall's and St Thomas',
sittings vary from ?3 to ?30. I select these
churcnes because they are the most fashion
able ot their classes. There are four young
ladies in a Fifth avenue school who pay $30
each lor sitting in a pew in the latter
church, while in Dr. John Hall's church
the proprietress of a leading school only
pays ?30 lor a pew which she places at the
disposal of her pupils. There are pews in
Dr. Hall's church, however, which rent for
quite as much money as any in St. Thomas'
church.
The general charge lor the use of a piano
is irom 15 to 525 a year. Some schools do
not charge anything. In many schools the
principal hires the music teachers, and they
ghe single and class lessons in the schoo'l
building as desired. Tho cost of lessons
varies from S2 to S3. "When the teachers
are selected by the principal the pupils
have little choice, but in most of the high
priced schools the girls are at liberty
jo choose a master for themselves.
Dr. George William "Warren, Dr. S. B.
-
If
r!0VJ TO VTAU,jk Xjy'V
T XEt MovtrvTN-f
uQ so
Milts, Prof. J. B. Halvlev, Dr. Dudley
Buck, Harry Rowe Shelley, S. P. "Warren,
Prof. G B. Rutenbee, Signor Bclari, Rich
ard Hoffman, Dr. Bruno, Oscar Klein and
others of this class sometimes give lessons
in their studios to single pupils who are es
corted thither by chaperons. The cost of
these lessons is seldom less than 55 each
and the lessons are onlv half an hour in
length.
Library Books and Lecture.
Most of the schools have excellent libra
ries of their own and give their pupils lec
tures from well-known special authorities
without extra expense. In music such au
thorities as William J. Henderson, of Col
umbia College, Mr. Krehbiel, "Walter Dam
rosch and Dr. George William "Warren are
among the lecturers.
A course in any bf the laboratories of the
great medical colleges or of Barnard Col
lege costs S30. An additional deposit of
30 is required wheu a desk is given to a
pupil. This sum is returned to pupil when
she irives ud the desk and the apparatus
after deducting for brcakaie.
Drawing is taught in almost all of the
schools by a teacher who comes twice a
week and instructs the entire drawing class
at once. For this there is a charge which
varies from 51 to ?3, according to the
tsacher. Some schools have painting
teachers, who instruct advanced pupils in
the school building. The charges are from
2 to 54 a lesson. Certain of the leading
il I I Iff si i
A GirTt Room.
'schools have the entree once a season to the
private collections, such as belong to Mrs.
William H. Vanderbilt, and during the
lives of their owners they were allowed to
visit the collections of Miss Catherine L.
"Wolfe and o' Mrs. B. L. Stuart. All of
the schools visit the exhibitions of the
Academy of Design, the "Water Color So
ciety and other producers of paintings.
Sometimes the managers give free tickets of
admission, but oltener the regular prices
are charged. These, together with the
ticket of the chaperon, are paid by the
girls. Frequently such artists as "William
M. Chase, J. G. Brown, F. S. Church,
Homer Martin and John La Farge throw
open their studios for the inspection of art
loving girls. Of course the Metropolitan
Museum of Art forms a central attraction
for the studfnt of art, and frequent visits
are made to it
The Cost or Higher Art TVorlc.
Advanced pupils who prove themselves
possessed of talent are sometimes, accepted
as students by the great artists in their
studios. They pay from $2 to $5 an hour for
instruction, depending upon the size of the
class. It costs nothing to study at the
Metropolitan Museum, but a girl must show
talent and experience.
Courses by lessons in the Art Students'
League and in the National Academy of
Design cost from $8 to $15 a month, depend
ing upon the class the girl enters. Lessons
in flower painting and china decorating are
given in the schools by special arrangement
and cost from $2 to $5 each, the pupil fur
nishing her own chinaware and paying the
cost of the subsequent firing and glazing,
which varies from $1 to $5, according to the
character of the work.
Athletic training never was so thorough
as it is now. All of the schools'have gym
nasiums of some descriptions, and one
school is building the finest private gym
nasium in America. Here not only is the
Swedish and Delsartean work taught, but
exercises in fencing, in gymnastics ma
chines, similar to those devised by Prof.
Sargent, of Harvard University, and used
in the Berkeley Ladies Athletic club ot
this city, in lawn tennis, archery and in
military drill are given.
This "Delsarte work is interesting and
novel. Girls do not wear "bloomers," or
even short skirts, and the movements are
not the ordinary calisthenics They wear
their ordinary school dress, save that they
discard corsets, and that their waists are
loose blouses. They sit down, stand up, go
up and down stairs, walk, turn around and
walk back, stand absolutely still and sit ab
solutely stilL These are their movements,
and they are given to bring out grace and
repose- And they do it, too.
Cxprc'KA in Eieryday Costume.
The girl who is tanght to be graceful in
the gymnasium when she is clad in short
skirts might appear very ill at ease in an
evening costume in a drawing room, but the
pupil who learns to be graceful in common,
everyday posture, in her everyday dress, can
be graceful anywhere. These exercises are
part of the school curriculum and no extra
expense attaches to them.
There are active exercises, however, that
do cost monev. There is a swimming
school for young women uptown where $4
is charged for a course of 10 lessons. Some
pupils avail themselves of this. Bicycle
riding is taught in any one of toalf a dozen
bicycle schools at $5 a course of five or more
lessons. Bicycles then can be hired to
practice at from 75 cents to $1 50 per hour.
Some girls try them.
Horseback riding is taught iu the various
riding schools. The costfor class instruc
tion is $j an honr. This includes the hire of
the horse. Horses can be hired for from $2
to $3 an hour, and where a class goes out
riding a riding teacher accompanies them.
Girls are allowed to go shopping once or
t ice a week with a chaperon, whose ex
penses thev jointly bear. Once a week they
also are allowed to go to theaters or to the
opera. In all cases they share between
themselves the expenses of the teacher who
accompanies them. In most schools the
girls are required to keep a cash book and
exhibit their accounts once a week.
For clothes, amusements and other like
expenses, the freedom of the girl is directed
entirely by the liberality ot her parents,
and as a rule the principals seldom inter
fere except to prevent wastefulness and ex
travagance. Girls from 8 years of age and
upward are admitted. The school terms
generally begin October 1 and end late in
May or early in June.
Bex J am ix Xorthkop.
Urokrn Jklc&surrs.
Lire 13 full of broken measures,
Objecti unattalned;
Soriows Intertwined with pleasures,
Losses of our costliest treaiures,
Eie the height be gained.
Every onl hits aspiration
Still unsatisfied;
Memories that wako vibration
Of the heart in oulck pulsation,
At the slfts denied.
VTc are better for the longing.
acrouer lor cue pain;
Souls at ease ale nature wron;lns;
Tliroush the harrowed soil come throncins
Seeds in sun and rain!
Broken measures, lino completeness
In tho perlect whole;
Lire is but a day in neetness,
Klclier in all strength and sweetness,
Glows the striving soul.
Sarah K. BoUon in Xew England ilagazine.
Me. Moses Price, of this place, has
been troubled with rheumatism for a long
time. He says Chamberlain's Pain Balm
has cured him and that the Balm has no
equal. Honecker Bros., Loraine, O. One
application will relieve the pain. 50-cent
bottles for sale by druggists. -wan
GAT LADY CYCLERS.
Pittsburg Has Lots of Them Who
Lore a Spin on the Wheel.
AND THEY CAN RIDE FAST, TOO.
One Enthusiastic Girl Who Threatens to
Do s Century Kun.
FAIR COMPETITORS OF THE WHEELMEN
The popularity of cycling among the
ladies of Pittsburg and Allegheny is daily
attested by the great numbers of them on
the streets and In the parks, and its health
lulaess is manifest in the clear complexions
and smiling countenances of the riders. It
is estimated that 1,000 ladies and girls ride
by cycles here, and as the physicians are
prone to prescribe such exercise for their
patients the number will continue to in
crease until they will outrun the gentlemen
in point of numbers.
"While there are perhaps a score of strong
and fast riders in the city, Miss Nellie Hun
ter, of the East End, so far has about the
best record as a rider. She will take a tour
with gentlemen and is liable to. leave a
number of them strung along the road,
tired out. So far about 75 miles in a day is
about her best record, but she is very anx
ious to beat it, and no doubt will do so be
fore the season closes if she has her way
about it. She wants to go into the century
run of the Allegheny Cyclers on Decoration
Day, and if she does she will make a record
of which she may be proud, as a hundred
miles of riding is a stickler for some who
think they can ride pretty well.
Decided 'y of an Athletic Tarn.
Miss Hunter is a very familiar figure in
the East End, as almost every evening
when the weather will permit she is out
among the cyclers and seems to enjoy it
S.- -
he's a good wheelman wno beats her.
immensly. She is quite a fast rider and
when riding on Highland avenue sometimes
goes at a speed that makes pedestrians'
heads swim. Thst avenue furnishes quite a
good course and attracts a score of ladies
and twice as many gentlemen every fine
evei.ing.
Mis Hunter does not stop at cycling
alone,but is a lover of all out-door exercises
in which a young lady can with propriety
indulge. As a horse-back rider she stands
seqond to none in the city. She is often to
be seen on her pony on Fifth avenue, leav
ing the cable cars far behind in her gallop
ing search for fresh air and health. She
also rows, swims, shoots and plays lawn
tennis, and all of them she docs well and
with a vim.
This is a good deal to say of a lady who
does not weigh over 120 wounds, but" Miss
Hunter's friends declare that it is all true
and more, as she thinks it boastful to tell
all she knows and does in athletics. She
takes to the sport naturally and has fairly
grown up in the open air. She was one of
the first to ride a safety and had before
tried the tricycle as a means of rapid loco
motion. A Charming Trio of Cyclers.
Though Miss Hunter is said to be the
best all-around rider the East End habo
far produced, she has not left the other
young ladies so much in the background as
to be lost to view. She has a number of
friends who never miss an opportunity to
take a ride with her. Miss Hunter, Miss
Flo Banker and Miss Lelia Lloyd form a
trio well known, because so olten seen
together on their safeties, and all are con
ceded to be very rapid riders. Speed on
the wheel seems to run through the entire
Banker family. The boys' records are well
known, and Miss Flo Banker bids fair to
become one of the best lady cyclers in
Pittsburg. All three of. the young ladies
named are good hill climbers, as well as
speedy on the asphalt streets, and enjoy a
run over the country roads as well as the
most confirmed cyclometer crank in the
Pittsburg clubs.
There are quite a number of ladies in the
city who take an annual outing on the
wheel, aud who enjoy cross country riding
immensely. There is some talk of a ladies'
cycling club, which is expected to give
short evening runs every couple of weeks
and one or two cross country runs during
the season. Thus the ladies will have an
opportunity to invite the gentlemen to go
on extended riding trips, instead of being
compelled to only accept such invitations.
X.,idy Members of a Wheel CInb.
The East End Gym wheelmen are proud
of their ten lady members and are working
to add others to the list. The young ladies
who went on the run a week ago are Besse
Hubbard, Miss A. G. McCleary, Miss Cora
R. Wells, Miss Elizabeth Faucett, Miss
Agnes M. Gill, Miss Marguerite McQuis
ton, Miss Jennie Hubley, Miss F. S. Davis,
Miss Bessie C Briggs and Miss Annie B.
Edleburn.
Since tnese young ladies have told all
their friends" what great sport it is to go
with the boys lor a two-hours ride over a
circuitous route, there Las been an increased
demand for membership, and it will be
something wonderful if there are not two or
three times as many lady members as are
now on the books. The rule that' whenever
a lady makes one trip with the club she be
comes a member, is quite an advantage and
will be sure to run up a large membership.
So lar the E. E. G. wheelmen have stuck
close to the asphalt streets to set the ladv
members trained up to steady riding, but f
this win not last hu summer as the captain
is arranging for several cross country runs.
Schenley Park will also come in one of the
programmes, but at present the drives there
are a little rough and it would require
pretty hard work lor the strongest to stand
a long run in such a place.
Some of Allegheny's Lady Cyclers.
Since ministers have begun to use the
wheel to ride to church, the school ma'ams
find no reason why they should not enjoy
the healthy sport as well. Some of them
have adopted cycling. Miss Lizzie Forsythe,
an East End teacher, rides to and from
reboot, and seems to enjoy it as much as any
other pupils.
Nor has the East End a monopoly on the
lady cyclers. Allegheny claims a good
share of them, and it the iudcres in a contest
were to visit "the ring" iu the Allegheny j
parks they would quickly decjde the matter.
That place is swarmed with lady cyclers
every evening until 8 o'clock, when the
policeman rings down the curtain and all
must quit It is a pretty picture, the gentle
men in their regulation outfits, and the
ladies rigged out in navy bine costumes and
vachtlng caps, all seemingly in a mad cap,
hurry scurry race for nowhere.
Among the fast and graceful riders who
frequent the parks in Allegheny are the
Misses Rischer.both of whom are considered
experts on the wheel. Thev are out almost
dailr, and are becoming well-known figures
to frequenters ot the park. The circle
where the most sport is had in Allegheny
fnrnishes amusement to others than riders,
as the benches are always filled with specta
tors, who seem as much interested aa the
riders themselves.
A Nervy Klder Takes a Tumble.
The ladies have as good nerve as the
gentlemen cyclers, as is evidenced by a
little incident in the Allegheny Parks
Tuesday evening. A gentleman and his
wife were attempting to climb the hill to
the bridge across the railroad track, but it
was too much for the lady, who was ahead,
and she fell across the 'path. The gentle
man was unable to stop and ran his wheel
over his wife and then fell. The lady was
removed from the wreck and mounted her
wheel for another spin, declaring she was
not hurt in the least She was seen around
the park for an hour after the fall without
even a speck of dust on her costume and
seeming to enjoy the ride as well as though
nothing more than ordinary had happened.
There is really no danger in such a fall
unless there be someone following.
The same evening two gentlemen ran
against 'two ladies riding in the park near
Ohio street, but the only damage was a
broken whesl which could easily be fixed.
Dismounting from a low wheel is so easy
that there is really no danger if the rider
has the presence of mind to do under extra
ordinary circumstances just what she would
do in an ordinary case. That is the special
thing a teacher tries
minds of his pupils,
teacher goes out and
to impress on the
and then the same
is liable to lose his
nerve in the same case.
1 he Fan ot Learning to Bide.
Prof. Kirchner, of the East End Gym,
has onlv been married about two weeks, but
he is already teaching his wife to ride a
wheel. She promises to be a very apt pu
pil. In fact, the East End Gymnasium has
become quite a riding gallery, the professor
havimr his time well occupied in teaching
the ladies to handle their wheels. Charley
Petticord has presented his sister, Miss
Amelia S. Petticord, with a wheel and now
has the pleasure of teaching her to use it
Miss Nellie Pratt is also learning 'cycling,
and expects soon to outride her father in
cros-country runs.
The ladies have a much harder time
learning to ride than the gentlemen, be
cause there is only one way to mount, and
that is "a pedal mount," something the av
erage 'cycler does not attempt to do for sev
eral weeks, and only then if he is sure his
accident policy has not run out But the
mount is soon learned by the ladies. Dis
mounting is almost as hard. One mnst slow
up a little, then, when the left pedal is
down, 6tep oil on the left side with the right
foot first It is always well to get off when
the machine is going quite slow, but the
voung ladies are soon expert enoueh to leap
from their wheels while going at"a pretty
good gait.
ENGLAND'S COMPASTMENT CABBIAGES.
Tho System Which Has Been Responsible
for So Sfany Sensations.
An ordinary English railway compart
ment carriage measures from 30 to 42 feet in
length, and stands about
14 feet 6 inches clear of
rails. Its weight varies
from 10 to 19 tons, ac
cording to the length of
the car and the weight of
the interior fittings. The
old style third-class En
glish carriage has four
compartments, each of
which seats 12 persons.
The interior resembles an
elongated elevator with
doors at each end and
cushioned seats along the'
sides. There are no
stoves, and heat has to be
obtained in cold weather
from a foot can filled -with
hot water. The side win
down are immnvaM. Tinf
TT
6vr
sw
,tvr
SWT
ftT
feVT
Sectionil View.
,....., wuw
the one in the door can be raised or lowered
at will When a train is made up at a ter
minal station the guard, as the conductor
is called in England, first locks all the
doors on the right hand side of the train.
As trains always keep the left hand side on
a double track in England and not the right
hand side, as is customary in this country,
all passengers must get out or in of these
compartments at the side next the station.
In fact, the locking of the door on the right
hand side had primarily for its object the
Inside a Compartment.
preventing of passengers from eluding the
vigilance of the guard when he came to col
lect the tickets.
The windows of these compartments have
heavy blinds attached to them to keep out
the sun's rays on hot days. Each compart
ment is separated from its neighbors by a
partition of heavy wooden sheathing. The
noise which the train makes passing over
the rails is quite sufficient to deaden any
ordinary sound or even screams in one of
these compartments. A passenger might
stand and hammer at the partition until his
kpuckles were black without attracting the
attention of the other passengers in the next
compartment
J'il Ha KLLUIMJ GMM&irT
lpllllil
JV J Ut
THE GIRL GRADUATE
Will Appear as Sweet as She Ought
if She Wear a Simple Gown.
A FEW OF THE CORRECT DESIGNS.
To Blossom Out in Frills and FurbeloTTS Is
a Great Mistake.
HINTS ON THE PROPER MATERIALS
rWBITTElr TOR THE DISFJLTCn.l
A very serious matter to every girl is the
cut of the gown in which she says farewell
to alma mater. Naturally, she feels not
only that it should be equal to the most im
portant occasion of her life thus far, but this
is the first expression she has made of her
Self through dress. non nf hnr trnnna hnv.
.. -,-,
Of India Silk.
ng had such special thought given to them
before, and she knows too surely that the
girls will all pass involuntary judgment
upon it, and that it wiU inevitably1 gauge
her taste with them.
There are no harder critics in the world
than schoolgirls. They are just becoming
sensitive to beauty and an ugly thing gives
them real pain. Also, they are yet without
the basis of experience that enables the rest
of us to palliate offenses against taste when
recognized. Moreover, the girl herself is
anxious to leave behind among her mates
an attractive memory of herself as one who
expressed beauty rh " her person. It is a
legitimate desire.
Simplicity the Best Form.
Simplicity is the approved ideal for the
graduating dress, and it is simple gowns
only that are provided for their daughters
by people of wealth and taste. There is of
course some difference to be allowed for be
tween a college girl in the twenties and
younger girls in lower grade school. The
college girl usually wears her first train, and
there must be an adaptation of design to the
more fully developed figure, but simplicity
remains the ideal for all, with those who
follow the best form.
It happens often that the girl herself, if
she is in the habit of selecting her own
clothes, without cultured guidance, thinks
that this is the time to blossom out in frills
and furbelows. She considers, too, that she
will be a woman from this on, and thicks a
gown which she will wear through thesum
mer should be as elaborate as those of
her older sisters. She wants a bro
cade front, or a velvet train; but let
this girl consider further. If she does
this thing she will live to find that
she 'has made a mistake. The gown she
will admire on commencement day will be
simple over cut by first-class private
modistes, beautiful in form, but without
any pretensions -whatever. 3If one has any
money to spend on a graduation dress it
should not be put into rich material or
labor.- Give it to a good modiste to cut
something artistic or girlish. Elaboration
only takes away elegance.
Material for Graduating Gowns.
The soft India silks are among the white
fabrics most popular for these gowns.
Wool crepons will be much used. They
are in creat variety of weave. Nun's veil
ing has a charming texture, and there are
albatross cloth and the beautiful mixed wool
and silk fabrics with wool finish, that go
under many names. Also crepe de chine,
gauze, and the dotted organdies or Swiss
muslins. The trimmings are principally
ribbons and the inexpensive coarse laces so
much in vogue.
The charming gown of India silk, of
which we give a picture, is made with a
full eathered skirt, as this fabric needs
wrinkled folds to show its beauty. Around
the bottom are four rows of gros grain rib
bon, satin edged. The waist is gathered to
a belt and confined by a sash tied behind.
Bound the shouldersis the tall of lace so
popular this season, and which is called
after Princess Mary the "Teckbarbe." Tne
The Gauze Dress.
sleeves are composed of the same lace in
overlapping rows sewed into the silk sleeve.
The lace is gathered into the armhole, where
it is finished by a butterfly bow made of
four standing loops of ribbon. The ribbon
folded passes round the armholes along the
top of the barbe.
The lace for this dress is point d'Irlande,
or point de jjene, the Bame thing. There are
many varieties of this lace. It costs from
$1 a yard upward, according to width; it
takes two and a half yards for a barbe.
A Costumn or Dlniltj Gqivp.
A stunning little costume sure to set the
other girls wild is made of "dimity" gauze,
a sheer muslin covered with snowuakes in
opaque silk, after this manner. The skirt
is ot the gauze taken lengthwise in order to
utilize the woven bands that are in one
edge for a border. It is gathered very full
and should have one or more sheer skirts
under it rather than silk,, as ballet skirts
are made. The front of the waist is full
and hangs over the belt. The sleeve is a
full puff ending above the elbow, where, it
meets the high glove. Character is given
to this dress bv its accesiories, which,
simple and girlish in themselves, make
what would otherwise be flimsy artistic.
These consist of two rounded sleevelets
jackets one over the other, and a large sash.
The inside jacket is of silk, and the outside
one of velvet The outlines of the two are
parallel. The effect may be given with a
single lining if preferred. A ribbon brace
let and rosette finish the bottom ot the
sleeve.
In putting several white fabrics together,
as in this costnme, care must be taken to
have them of the same tint .In general
ivory white looks best with dark skins, and
bad complexions. A white-skinned, deli
cate girl, with color can best wear pearl
white.
Wool Mast Be Bandied Delicately.
White wools need the most careful design
ing, perhaps of any white fabrics, but they
usually, want it and are ruined. Wool is
not ot the character to lend itself to small
forms and spaces; it has not the flexibility
of silk and muslin, yet it is the common
mistakes to cut it up into small trimmings,
puffs and fine ruffles with rolled edges. Its
beauty is developed onlv by letting it fall
ing large soft folds, ot its own weight
If it is desired to trim wool rfith ribbon
or other silk, a epec'al design should be
chosen, as wool absorbs and silk reflects
light, and the effect of the combination is a
sharp contrast Be sure that there is a rea
son, such as that given by the tied sash, for
the trimming which will be so defined. An
elegant border for a wool dress will be one
that absorbes light, such as the sewing silk
ruche that borders the erenon trown in our
drawing.
This crepon dress is a model in design and
combination. It has a bell skirt with slight
train; the waist is cut modestly low over a
lace chemisette and is laid in folds and con
fined by a corselet belt of mixed wool and
silk in stripes. Such a belt should always
be of richer material than the rest of the
garment. The full sleeves are shirred into
puffs near the wrist, and are bordered with
lace. Sewing silk fringe borders neck and
skirt
A Bnee Bow In the Back.
The back of this gown is ornamented with
a huge bow of ribbon, as shonn in one of
the figures in this srroup. For this bow it
takes 6 yards. Sometimes there is added
to this bow an end that passes around the
front jnst under the bust, and is fastened
again at the back. The ribbon is six inches
wide.
Dotted organdie is harmoniously trimmed
with ribbon and lace. It mnst be made
over silk, the skirt hanging separate.
In a neat design the skirt border is made of
two rows of moire ribbon with a valencien
nese lace insertion set in between. The
waist has a moire sash ribbon passed twice
round and tied at the side. The full sleeve
falls over a cuff made of ribbon and lace in
sertion. A flowered orcandie. withacream cround.
is made over cream white silk. The skirt is
A Crepon Gown.
bordered with two rows of slightly fluted
ribbon with a tiny ruffle of lace between.
The slightly pointed waist is drawn down
with gathers in front and is trimmed with
jaboted lace, and lace spread smoothly from
the jabot round to the under arm seams.
The sleeve hangs full and the cuff is covered
with lace. Tee waists of all these gowns
are fastened invisibly.
Ada Bache-Cone.
AHTIQTJITY OF EHEUMAIISM.
Skeletons That Show the Ancients Were
Afflicted With That Disease.
Newcastle, England, Chronicle. 3
A very valuable find of skeletons has
been made in Egypt by Mr. Flinders Petrie,
who has recently opened a number of tombs
previously intact at Medum, belonging to
the beginning of the fourth dynasty. This
is the earliest known date of Egyptian re
mains. The skeletons are well preseryed,
but tender and friable. Some of them bear
unmistakable evidence of rheumatic changes
and consequently indicate that at that very
remote period man was subject to and
suffered from this, as is now shown from its
antiquity, venerable disease. No ornaments
or objects of art, except occasionally some
rough pottery, or a wooden headrest, were
found with tfiese remains.
The greater number was interred in a con
tracted position with the knees drawn up to
the breast, even when the tomb was. long
enough to allow burial in the extended
position, the body placed on the left side,
wrapped in linen cloth, the head always to
the north and the face to the east. A lew,
however, apparently the bodies of the
highest class or race, were interred in the
extended position, along with vases of
stone or pottery and headrests. At this
period there is no trace of mummification.
The essential difference in the mode of in
terment seems to point to difference of race,
and it is probable that the contracted
burials are those of the prehistoric race ot
Egypt, while the dynastic race were in
terred with the body extended. It is ex
tremely interesting to find these contracted
burials' common at so early a date in Egypt,
as a similar mode was adopted by the earliest
inhabitants ot Great Britain.
CEEEMOHY AMONG THE BIRDS.
The Love of Display Thnt Exists la Species
or the Feathered Tribe.
Newcastle Courier.
The singular wattled, wing-spurred and
long-toed jacanas have a queer kind of
meeting. They usually go singly or in
pairs, but occasionally, in response to a call
by one of them, all who are withm hearing
leave off feeding and fly to one spot, where
they walk about with their beau
tiful wings erect or half open,
'or waved up and down with a
slow and measured motion. What these
two species both sexe join in the display;
but that of the spur-winged lapwing is alto
gether peculiar, inasmuch as it takes place
with three individuals only. These birds
live in pairs, and at intervals during the
day or on moonlight nights, one bird will
leave his mate and fly to another pair a
short distance off These will receive the
visitor with signs of pleasure.
First going to meet him, they place them
selves behind him, and all three march rap
idly, uttering special notes. Then they
stop; the leader stands erect with elevated
wings Uttering loud notes, while the other
two, with pufled-out plumage, standing side
by side, stoop forward till the tips ot their
beaks touch the ground, and with a low
murmuring sound remain for some moments
in this strange posture. Then the visitor
goes back to his own mound and mate, and
later on they receive a visitor whom they
treat in the same ceremonious manner.
They are said to be so fond of this form of
visiting that they indulge in it all the year
round.
Old houses are frequently Infested with
roaches and bedbugs. Buglne will destroy
them effectually. 25 cents at all dealers.
A'ftltMl1'0
AN IMAGINATIVE ROMANCE OF ARCTIC EXPLORATION.
WBITTES FOR THE DISPATCH
BY HERBERT D. WARD.
SYNOPSIS OF PREVIOUS CHAPTERS.
In a sleeping car Journeying from the Wet to Chicago are six chance acquaintances
Millionaire Vanderfvn, ot Cnfcago: Prof. Wilder. Inventor of the Aeropole: Senreanc Will
twls, who was with Greely and with Lockwoodon their Polar expeditions; Royal Steriia,
technical Institute student: Jaok Hardy, who is going into real estate in Chicago, and Fred
erick Ball, an astronomical tutor. Out or a Jesting remark a serious expedition to tho
North Pole in Prof. WUder's airship Is arranged. Millionaire Vanderlyn furnishes the
money, Wilder the conveyance. Willtwig the experience, and the three younger men tho
enthusiasm. Just as they start officers arrive to serve an injunction on Wilder. The action
Is brought by Hennepin, who claims the airship li his Invention. After some excitine ex-
Serlences the officers are persuaded to desist The airship gets on, and when ovorLako
ichljtan Sergeant Wllltwleremembers that he left his supply of matches in Chicago. Only
a fow can be found in the pockets of the explorers and they are preserved as if they wero
gold. Soon a strangenew sickness steals over tho party. It Is like seasickness, only mo ro
severe. While they are prostrated by it they narrowly escape dashinjr against a mounta ia
top in Canada. All goes well until in the far north they espy a ship In the ica and from IE
a man is signaling. They throw liim some provisions, go on and finally reacli the pole.
CHAPTER IX.
THE POLE.
'The flag!" cried the Sergeant, dropping
his load when only a quarter of a mile
away. "Where are my senses? I forgot
the flag."
"I'll go back," said Royal "Wait here,
I'll be right back."
The two were still standing there before
the disabled airship, stunned by their de
sertion. Eoyal ran to the pole set up out
side the ship, tore off the glorious "United
States emblem the flag of liberty and
hurried back. The Sereeant kissed the
piece of silk with the only dramatic action
of whioh he had ever been guilty. But this
was a dramatic moment, and he was a sol
dier. He rolled the Stars and Stripes up
reverently, and put them under his im
mense lnr garment.
"But what shall we do for a flag?" asked
Jack Hardy, in a burst of patriotism.
"Look in the third locker from the top,"
called' back the Sergeant, as he tramped
away. "You'll find a flag there." With
these commonplace words the hero vanished
upon his uncommon errand.
Sixteen days! Only sixteen days! It
might have been 16 years to look at them.
Two haecard spiritsj blasted by the boister
ous conflict against icy chasms, blinding
snow, terrible wind and deadly cold, starva
tion and sleepless anxiety, staggered slowly
on. ,
He who walked in advance had a resolute
air and bore his head high. His eves, fever
ish and bleared with privation, still looked
about the desolate "ice-scape" with the un-
moving intelligence of a ptarmigan. He4
sought the sun itself, which no longer rose
and fell with the day, but circled endlessly
on its parallel course with the maledict
horizon. Here is no rising and no setting,
no night, no day, no revolution, .and no
change. Here upon the apex of the globe,
upon the axis of the earth, the prophecy is
fulfilled that "there shall be no more time."
That delusive mode of duration which is
formed in the mind by its own power of ob
serving and measuring passing objects has
no place here. Why? Because the idea of
time refers to the only particular meridian
on which a person happens to be placed, and
is marked by the distance of some heavenly
body from that meridian. But where all
meridians meet namely, at the Pole ap
parent time has no existence.
They vrere now less than a twelfth of a
degree from the 00th latitude. Long since
the needle In the compass had turned right
about face, and pointed steadily backward
at the magnetic pole, which Sir James Boss
had determined to be at 70 degrees 5 min
utes north and 90 degrees 43 minutes west:
nearly 1,200 miles south of the geographical
Pole, on which these two madmen soon
hoped to stand.
The last observation placed them within
five miles of the 90th degree latitude
within five miles of their stupendous
destination.
"Let me stay here until you come back?"
ureed the tutor after the eleventh day.
"By heavens, no!" answered the Ser
geant with a strong exclamation. He
shouldered all of the tutor's traps, almost
the man himself, and with tightened lip3
set forth again to the north.
Hot a living thing had they seen in this
accursed frozen field; not even a bear, not a
bird. They had not even heard a sound of
sweet life, except tne crunch ot their tot
tered moccasins, or the infrequent word that
startled their ear as they uttered it; tho
grinding of feeth upon frozen pemmican;
the suppressed groans of assimilation; the
cry of frantic nightmare, mingled with the
howling of the everlasting storm that
knocked at their sleeping bags. They sel
dom spoke. They toiled and slipped, ad
vanced and retreated, baffled by unsurpass
able ravines of ice,1 and advanced again,
ever slower, even more doggedly.
The Sergeant with the dexterity of an Es-
?:uimau quickly cut blocks of snow and
ashioned a low hut This would protect
them at any rate, and form a cairn to de
posit their records in. The tutor crawled
into the manhole and the opening was im
mediately stopped up with a square of
snow.
"At any rate," said the tutor languidly,
"it isn't an open sea, and I don't see any
hole in the ground. It isn't remarkable,
the Pole isn't," continued the young man,
sipping his hot tea with great relish. "I
am awfully disappointed."
"You will let me take the final observa
tions, won't you?" The tutor spoke feebly.
His frail constitution was shattered. The
commander, who had seen CO men die be
side him of starvation and exposure, knew
the symptoms too well. He bent over his
young companion as tenderly as a father.
"Are you warm now?" he asked.
"Almost! If I could only get dry I should
feel comfortable. Say, " old fellow, I'm
sorrr I'm done up. You'll let 'em know
that'l "
"Hush, ray boy, ot course I will. You'll
turn out all right after a couple of days'
rest Don't think about the infernal Pole.
Go to sleep!"
The wan" face looked back at the speaker,
as if pitying his forlorn hope, and then his
lips closed. His mind wandered. He
dreamt of warmth and dryness, of food and
home, and a happy look came over his
pinched face, even as the visions passed.
But the Sergeant could not sleep. He
threw himself down beside the tutor that
his warmth might animate the youth. He
thought what madness it wn to be where
he was, and of the same madness that had
killed hundreds, before this boy. He no
longer felt the impatience of his self-imposed
mission. He wondered if the world
were benefited by his animal endurance or
not 'He began to perceive that there was
lolly in his heroism. One life already lay
at his door; he went so far as to wish that
he had never made this triumphant attempt
and then he slept
The Sergeant awoke. He arose with a
start A taint light streamed through the
opaque blocks ot snow about him. He felt
for the bottle of alcohol by his side, and
with care lighted the spirit lamp. He Bad
20 matches left and he gloated over them as
he replaced them in the tin box. These
would last him at the rate of one day until
he got back. He must henceforth be satis
fied with one meal in 24 hours. The lantern
had lasted until a short time ago. Then he
theft
s G
made the discovery that he could not spars
the spirits for the continual light
He boiled the water and then awoke his
.companion gently. The tutor turned over
and murmured in his uneasy sleep the name
dearest to the human heart, "Mother!"
The Sergeant dared not let him sleep
longer, and aroused him after a few shakes.
It took the sufferer a few minutes to re
member where lie was. The brain works
slowly after it has been partially congealed.
When he recognized the face above him and
the glassy sides of the igloo, a look of hor
ror pervaded his face.
"Come, old fellow, drink a little of this.
The whisky in it will give you life."
The warmth restored the circulation; tho
thin blood gave a feeble hope; the young
man seemed to rally. They breakfasted roy
ally on canned lamb's tongues stewed in
onions. The tntor ate as much as he could
and began to throw off his deadly stupor.
With full stomachs their excitement re
turned. The tutor insisted on being helped
up and out with his instruments. They con
sulted their watches. By correct time they
calculated that it was within an hour of 12,
but whether night or day they could not
tell.
As they walked, the tutor breathed
heavily.
"I feel a lack of air," he said. "3Iy
head rings. What does the barometer
say?"
Sergeant Willtwig looked. The aneroid
told him that thev were at an elevation of
15,000 feet Intending to make thorough
barometrical observations at the Pole, they
had not looked at the sensitive instrument
for 120 hours.
"What does it say?" asked the tutor,
after a pause too long to realize a simple
figure.
"An impossibility!" exclaimed the Ser
geant. "How?"
"The blamed thing puts us on an eleva
tion of 15,000 odd feet. AVhnt nonsencel"
The tutor looked grave. Until Eoss dis
covered the magnetic pole in 1831, the
northern reigons had played mischief with
the needle of tho compass. What was thero
at the Geographical Pole to affect the bar
ometer which, taking account of the minute
variations of temperature, never played
false?
"Shake it!" suggested the tutor,ettinjr.
his blue glasses wander over the'rage oiT
blinding ice and snow. Around them
i stretched an immense plain of ragged, torn
noes ana oiocks ot ice.
Ground together, these assumed fantastio
shapes. At a half mile from where they
stood, jutting land stood forth, gray and
solitary. Perhaps it was the tip of a moun
tain peak; perhaps the head of an island
emerging from the eternal snow. Thera
was no mark but this in sight no indica
tion of a remarkable elevation, nothing to
show that they had ascended higher than
the Cape of Mont Blanc.
With feeble hands the tutor, undaunted
byprivation and deadly exposure, began to
adjust his instruments and make his
measurements aud calculations.
The problems of the Pole are many. The
first 13 to find it The second is to prove
The Tutor Almost Failed.
that you have found it. The measurement
nf a degree of the meridian at the Pole is in
itself reason to get there. Again, the
burning qnestion must be solved. To what
desrree is the earth flattened at the Pole?
The tutor's hand shook. Judge how
your hand would shake if it should be your
lot to discover the largest diamond in the
world. Men have gone mad at unearthing
a nuggat of gold.
The Sergeant looked at his companion
anxionsly. The young man shivered with
the exciteme.it and cold. He gulped down
a few swallows of brandy and worked
feverishly. From time to time he at down
directly upon the ice. He seemed upheld
only by the power of a great purpose. His
persistence was ghastly.
To be Continued next Sunday.'
Whjt Is more refreshing than a good
night's sleep? But you can't sleep in a bed
full of bedbuzs. Bugine will clean them out
effectnally. 25 centi at all dealer-.
----
RHEUMATIC
PAINS
Stop anointing
and apply to the
spot that aches
WOOD'S I
PENETRATING pS?tY
' .nnllnnnntlv Tt
' Dl ACT CD special power to
; r LHO I tl dilate the pores,
. ..-.ti)i AmrAvrtrtA cfnnnain. rnrlr
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piiuius
OF DRUGGISTS
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r y 9 ' wv v t' v yyT T"f
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