' '' '"
I OUTING SEASON
Hero Are the Correct Styles
for the Seashore and. the
3Ioimtain Top.
THEY'EE YERYMUCII ALIKE
Cut Details of Decoration Hake tbo
Sailor or Mountaineer.
FASHIONS SLAVERY IX PARIS.
llaborate Ball uresses of the Last Century
in Vogue Again.
BELLES OP THE PERIOD UAVB RED OAIE
TWRITTr.X TOR THE DISPATCH.'
HERE is considera
ble definition this
eaon in what is
fashionable for sea
shore, mountain and
traveling wear, so
that one general
analysis will cover
the structural ele
ments of dress for
them all; and from
the same elements
ti ill be developed
every degree o f
style, from a recher
che get-up at Jlonte
Carlo to the quietest
frock at Ocean
Grove.
A skirt of wool,
sliehtly en train; a
jacket of the same,
of varying length,
open widely in front,
and a silk blouse
spirt This is the framework: in the de
tails mill lie all the differences which result
an elegance or tawdrines; style or rustic
ity. The private dressmakers have stamped
with approval the following variety of this
design: The material is serge, either black
nr dark blue. The skirt sweeps the ground
about two inches. If this length lor coun
try walking and tennis playing seems pre
posterous, at least we can reflect that grass
is cleaner than pavements. The skirt is
arter the bell form, but with a difference.
If it has a back seam this seam is sloped less
than formerly, giving more fullness at the
top, and not quite as much the effect of an
old umbrella collapsed.
Passing or the Pointed Skirt.'
But fashion has grown a little weary of
the pointed skirt, and the newest idea is to
This It Exactly Proper.
cut the back breadth straight. Seams are
again in favor, and Irom the seamless skirt
we have arrived at the skirt with many
seams as many as eight all welted or
corded to make them prominent. This is
the other extreme. One of the most ele
gant outinc skirts is in two breadths, front
and back, both the same width, and both
pored on the sides, so that two gored seams
come together. These seams almost meet
r: the back, and the fullness of the back
lalls over and covers them. Another good
Fkirt has a side gore and straight back
breadth.
The skirt is without trimming. It is
lined with silk or not lined, according to
fancy or the weight of the cloth. If not
lined it is faced six inches deep and has
several rows ot stitching. The facing may
be cambric or silk, but sti8 facing should
not be used. A taffeta silk ruffle, pinked
on both edges, is set underneath and covers
the facing.
The jacket must be short to be chic, long
coats being already out of favor. It is
fitted in the back, loose in front, may or not
have rever, and the collar is turned over
flat, leaving the hich blouse collar to show
at the back. The sleeve is the mutton leg,
with variations. It should be as close to
the arm below the elbow as the silk sleeve
worn underneath will permit and, in gen
eral, the tighter it is the greater the style,
though sometimes it is made to w iden or is
left open at the wrist, to Bhow the blouse
sleeve, as is seen in the picture of the Fig
aro jacket dress.
Ietal!s of the Proper Costume.
The flaring cuff is much In vogue. The
shirt waist is gathered at neck and shoul
ders on a yoke lininc. A strip of the silk is
stitched down each shoulder over the itath
ers, aud a drawing string is run in at the
waist line. The full shirt kIppvp is irathered
Into a straight cufl. The straight turn-over
coliar has its style completed by a huge bias
silk tie. The waist may pass under or
be worn outside the skirt. The belt is of
serge, sometimes pointed, but most elegant
ly straight, and mav be wide and laid in
folds. If collar, cuffs and revers are of an
ornamental fabric the belt should be of this
also. Such 'aciiigs may be of a contrasting
wool, but not of silk.
This blouse may be of the same or anoth
er color. Our first picture shows a black
serge with a scarlet blouse. The jacket is
lined -a ith changeable red tafieta and the
mum tafieta is used for the petticoat The
(fcings are of black plisse (plaited) wool.
Tiie most lancilul brocaded silks are made
tip into these blouses, and with two or three
iuch wa-sts a variety is given to the cos
tume. It is a mistake to choose changeable
tafieta for blo-ises, which is suitable only
for linings. Unless broken with figures,
its cllect as a garment is meager and
poor.
An estimate of material and expense for
this costume is as follows: English serge
of fine quality, 57 inches wide, four yards,
5 40. Silk for blouse, four vards, H
Taffeta for lining, three and a half yards,
J2 97. Taffeta for petticoat, seven yards,
tofl!25iv'4?ciirw3
If i?7 is
N Bernhardt, is)
V .TKeoaora -1
i fi
III
S5 9i Black taffeta for skirt balayense six
inches deep, a yard and a half, $1 18.
Variations of a ltegalar Style.
This costume may be varied. Next to
serge in favor is light-weight ladies' cloth.
Of fancy wools plaids are not much worn,
but stripes are in vogue. Sometimes the
jacket is short behind and sloped down
longer In front. The skirt may have a
border. "White wool combines agreeably
with colored wool when used for lacings.
Thus a blue serge vachting dress shown as
a model has a widely turned over sailor
collar, and the, belt, faced with white, em
broidered with blue, as shown in our seo-
Hr if lilt'-
vm
Far Mountain Air.
ond picture. The skirt is bordered with
white strapped with blue. A dark red cloth
has facings of white with red Hercules
braid laid over it- A charming gown of
violet and white striped wool has violet
wool facings, and a violet silk shirt Of
course such gowns as these, with white, are
suitable for country wear only, and not for
traveling.
The elecant modiste makes little or no
difference between a seashore and a moun
tain dress as to design, vet one might fancy
some subtle development of the forms that
would bring them into harmony with either
environment. For instance, there is some
thing nautical in parallel bands of trim
ming. In tab fastenings, much used this
season, one is reminded of sailors recourse
to simple inventions. These are the most
icsthctio fastenings in the world, by the way.
The full gathered blouse with wind-blown
frill below the belt, the long, fashionable
scarf fluttering out like a pennant, and the
flat, rough sailor hat, all speak of the sea.
The explanation is that horizontal lines are
symbolic of w ater.
The riz.iro Jacket Is the Go.
Another jacket in vogue is the Figaro,
which reaches only to the belt A stylish,
mountain dress is made with a skirt of
striped wool, a Figaro jacket of plain color
like the colored stripe; white blouse, and
wide folded belt of the plain color, and long
crape scarf of the color, and broad-brimmed
hat
The ideal of a traveling clonk is some
thing ample, in which one can bundle up.
It should therefore not be cut into set de
sign, or have details, but is most elegant
when indefinite in form and possessed of
the power of easy adjustment to each new
pose. Experience seems to have given the
reference for utility to the long, loose
coat, which may be entirely covered with
a cape, or have a military cape, reaching
only to the knee. Sometimes there is a
triple shoulder cape over the long cape,
and sometimes there is a hood, pointed
and plaited and variously decorated, which
will not go onto the head. Such a hood
vulgarizes the garment The illustrations
show a closk of Scotch tweed bordered with
cloth deeply serrated, also an English
traveling cloak, strapped across the bick,
double breasted and having a hood pro
fusely made, so that it does service as a
hood. There is also a French model which
gives the effect of an over jacket hanging
loose from the shoulders, and is charming.
Traveling caps in the market are of soft
felt of Alpine shape, with creased crown
and rolled sides. There are also the usual
skull caps and felt visor caps.
The Latest Itacri In Paris,
A clever writer sends me the following
from Paris: Fashion in Paris was never
moie despotic than now. Kot even during
the second empire did it exert such a strong
sway over objects so lar removed from its
sphere, or meddled in things so indifferent
to fickle and capricious ladyhood. It pre
scribes, for instance, at present, that the
fcnir nf Indies with any pretense to being
fashionable, is to be dyed red; that a dinner
without Kussian sartusts ana anasn is im
possible; that there is but one color lor
ladies' finery, and all decorative art
namelv, mauve, a pale, reddish purple re
sembling the purple markings on the petals
of the mallow. The landscape painter
makes use ol this practical tint to paint an
impressionist sky; the portrait painter pre
fers mauve draperies to any other for his
model; the latest novelty in stationary is
mauve note paper.
Ihis, however, is not all about mauve,
No fashionable Parisian wears any other
wrapper this season than a mauve levite a
la russe. This saut de lit is not only modern
but also dressy and extremely elegant. It
is a long paletot like that worn by the Rus
sian popes, trimmed around the skirt edge
with Byzantine embroidery of close silk and
gold threads. Everywhere now Kussian in
fluence is being felt, often imparting to
Decidedly Elegant.
French gavety a flavor of grotesque solem
nity, which reminds one of the old Egyptian
art
The Favorites In Flowers.
This predilection for mauve has also
caused the violettes de parme to become
more fashionable than ever, though only on
account of their color; the favorite flowers
are the mimosa, lilacs and gold rods, besides
numerous other variegated blossoms and
leaves, such as I never would have thought
possible in nature had I not caught sight of
garlands of them in all their natural bloom
in the windows of the greatest Parisian
florists, "Compagnie Lvonnaise."
These garlands forme'd of gracefully hang
ing clusters of blossoms play an important
part in adorning the rather deoollete
bodices of ball dresses. They are especially
used to trim the "bretelles" a corselet
without sleeves or shoulder pieces, cut in
the shape of a Medici girdle. It is no won
der that young girls are seen more and
more seldom at balls; mothers do not mind
attending themselves, but rather leave
their unmarried daughters at home. The
fashion to clothe the body above the waist
In fragrant flower blossoms is one of those
many little surprises which occur when the
comedy of the winter season is coming to an
end and the most impossible extravagances
were devised in Lent, when ball costumes
aie supposed every year to have reached the
acme of elegance and boldness of concep
tion, but which always grow pale and draw
back ashamed at the brilliancy displayed, by
the next new season.
The Old-Time Ball Dresses.
"Everything has been and will come
again," can be applied most especially to
fashions, only, of course, they are modified
and return" with a somewhat different
stamp. And can there be anything more
tasteful and beautiful than the present ball
dresses, made on the model of olden times
(en princesse) of heavy brocaded silk,intcr
woven with flowers a la pompadour, and a
train gracefully winding, like a huge snake
under an airy cover of broad white lace,
held here and there in place by a pompa
dour bow? A pompadour scarf pin from 8
to 10 inches broad, reaching to the edge of
the train, completes this toilet
It needs the beauty spots on arm and
cheeks, beneath the throat and neck sb far
down as possible, and a white aigrette on a
colored, scarcely perceptible rosette, in the
powdered hair, aud that the modern sortie
de bal be made of white Peking velvet and
silk, lined with rose and trimmed with rose
colored feathers, to delude us into believ
ing that we have dreamed an evening in tho
eighteenth century, so much does the mod
ern ball dress remind us of bygone fashions.
The suit for religious occasions Is of hard,
black serge, which clings to the figure. The
sleeves are of blacK velvet, very full and
wide at the shoulders and narrow at the
wrists. There is a Medici collar of the
same material and a shoulder cape of sergo
lined with black plush. The most indis
pensible part of this costume is the long,
somewhat narrow train, faced with serge,
sweeping the marble flags. The headgear
consists either of a gentleman's soft felt
hat. or a little bonnet of stiff black tulle in
the shape of a plate embroidered in pearls
and trimmed with a few flowers or a bunch
of the violettes de parme.
From Kellgloua to Ball Costtimes.
The more severe and simple her church
costume has been the day before, the more
at ease the fair penitent" will feel the fol
low ing evening in one of the gay ball
dresses described before. For these she can
select, it she does not care for the heavy
antique damask goods, the latest "soie de
Denise" a silk, with a white ground em
broidered with horus of plenty, pouring
out flowers and fruits in all possible colors.
These ball costumes are adorned with gar
lands of forget-me-nots and marguerites.
The coiffure is Byzantine at present, the
hair dyed red, with a chignon of thick
golden threads adorned with pearls, con
trasting strikingly with . pale complexion
and a garb of mourning. Sarah Bernhardt's
interesting head first wore this Oriental
coiffure as Empress in Sardou's "Theodora,"
and many at once hoped and expected to see
it become as fashionable as it is cow. So
curled hair on the temples and forehead,
and frizzled top knot will be worn for some
time to come.
I cannot take leave of ball dresses with
out mentioning the costly costume worn by
You Will See Plenty or Thcte.
Mme. Carnot at the first Elvsee ball of the
season. The President's wife was in white
satin, covered with embroidery in high re
lief. The train of black velvet, lined with
white satin, which fell from the shoulders,
increased the peculiarity of the costume.
The only thing worth mentioning after this
would be the dress worn bv Queen Isabella
at a musical soiree at her hotel. It was of
white satin, cmbioidered with genuine
pearls, and the train, also falling from the
shoulders, was lined with straw-colored silk
brocade.
What the Spring Has Bronirht.
The spring month brought us an entirely
new style of dress for small dinner and
theater parties; namely, the charming, high,
tight-fitting jaquettes of light green or
mauve colored silk trimmed with lace, with
full upper sleeves and broad lace cuffs
reaching to the elbows. The silk skirt is
plain and of a different color (generally
dark) to the jaquette.
It is not fashionable in Paris for ladies
that follow a profession to dress according
ly. On the contrary, a genuine Parisicnne,
whether a paintress at her easel, a blue
stocking at her writing desk or a student In
the lecture room ot the academy, always
dresses like a lady and after "the latest
fashion.
Some days ago I attended the "jour" of a
lady of fashion. Among the guests was a
young lady whoso tasteful dress though
somewhat strong in color attracted general
attention. The skirt of green Pekin moiree
had at the bottom a six-inch border of
green and yellow striped satin. The bodice,
half hidden by a carmine velvet shoulder
cape, embroidered with red pearhand lined
with red satin, was trimmed in the same
fashion. Her hat was of folded white cloth,
embellished with gold brocade. I also ob
served that the till now five customary
Eleats, which held the dress together in the
ack, had dwindled to two. After the
lady's departure I was told that she was a
popular journalist Ada Bache Cone.
A North Carolina Sphinx.
In Surrey county, N. a, there is a
mountain whose outline displays a striking
resemblance to the sphinx ot Egypt It is
In the northwestern part of the State, just
east ofhe Blue Kidge nnge, and lies prone
upon the Piedmont plains. 'At a distance
of ten miles the figure is the exact counter
part of that of a gigantic lion, its body at
right angles to the precipitous ridge," and
with head reared aloft as if in the act of ris
ing. II any Shots a Sllunte.
The greatest speed ever attained by a
single-barrel, hand-operated, machine gun
was when Gardner, himself, fired 250 rounds
per minute. The Nordenielt five-barrel
gun, such as Is used in the British navy,
may be fired with three trained operators
about 400 to 500 rounds per minute. At the
Swiss trials the two-barrel Gardner gun,
with four men to operate it, fired 1333 rounds
in a minute.
Mask
n
mSMWMrwTMm '
THE PITTSBUR& DISPATCH, SU NDAY. MAT 8,
WHY THE BABIES DIE.
Statistics on a Great Crime of Ig
norance in Enlightened Days.
A PLAIN TALK FROU A DOCTOR.
What late Chemical Analysis and Expedi
ence lias Established.
SHIRLEY DARE A.NSWERS QUERIES
iwitiTTEir roa tub DisrjtTcn.l
The appalling mortality among infants in
nearly every civilized community of the
world has many indirect causes, but the
great and direct cause, especially among
those who are under the age of 1 year, is
unquestionably the use ot improper food.
In North America it is estimated that from
one-quarter to one-third of all the deaths in
a community occur among children under 1
year of age. Most of these children have
died of some digestive disorder, from 40 to
60 per cent of these being due to gastric or
intestinal disease. In the second year of
life the causa of death is more commonly
some respiratory disease.
Infants, as a rule, are born with a healthy
digestive apparatus, but while their organs
are sound they are also highly sensitive.
Their tissue cells are vastly more delicate
than the adults. Their circulation is much
more rapid and there is more blood in their
tissues. Ignorance of their physiological
requirements for food is one great cause
why they are so frequently furnished with
an indigestible or innutritious artificial
diet, or why they are prematurely taken
from their natural food.
TVhnt the Statistics Show.
It requires no argument to prove that the
natural food of the helpless baby is best, but
if such were required it is amply provided
in the experience of orphan and foundling
asylums, where the children are from nec
essity aitificially fed. Until recently the
records from such institutions showed that
nearly 100 per cent, or practically all in
fants, died before reaching the age of one
year.
In Randall's Island the death rate among
the naturally-fed children was almost 16 per
cent, while among the bottle-Jed it reached
75 per cent In English manufacturing
towns, where the factory employment of the
mothers prevents their nursing their chil
dren, only one-half of these reach the age of
two years. In Munich the mortality of
naturally-fed children is only 15 per cent,
that of bottle-fed 85 per cent
Observations upon the physical develop
ment of children who survive indicate how
unfavorable is an artificial diet for complete
erowtb; for instance in Manchester, where
63 per cent of the naturally-fed children
were found to be well developed, only 10
per cent of the hand-fed babies were equally
well grown.
There are many reasons why artificial
diets fail to nourish the baby, but they all
depend upon the fact that they are gener
ally very unlike the food that natuio has
provided and that the physiological condi
tions of the baby cannot well sustain any
such changes.
Rapid Growth of the Child.
The baby needs the same elements in its
food as the adult, but a glance at its crow
ing orcanism shows that it requires these in
very different proportions, as well as in the
most easily assimilable form. Born with a
weight of from 6 to 7 pounds, the child
has doubled this by the middle of its third
month and tripled it at the end of the first
year, while in length it has grown from
about 19 inches to 27 inches in the same
period of time.
This increased weight and length is
shown in the size and strength of its mus
cles, and in the increase of the skeleton.
The muscles of a baby only equal one and a
half pounds of its weight, while in the
adult the muscles weigh 60 pounds, an in
crease ot 60 fold. To sustain such a growth
it is evident the baby needs a large amount
of that element which mostly builds up
tissue, viz, albumen, and this in larger pro
portions than an adult whose body is no
loncer storing up new elements.
The skeleton of a new born child weighs
only about one pound, but before it has
grown to adultproportions it must increase
25 times its weight For this lime salts are
of importance, and are required in large
amounts, not only lor the skeleton, but also
to assist maturitive changes in the other
tissues and digestion, which cannot go on
without these minerals. Fats are no less
necessary for nutrition, as they form a large
element in nerve and brain tissue. The
brain of a baby is much larger in propor
tion to us oouv man mat ot an adult, and
requires more than twice as much fat as the
muscles, while the nerves require seven
times as much.
Most llnvo Stisar and Water.
A fourth element in the required dietary
is sugar, representing the carbohydrate
class of foods This is generously repre
sented in the mother's milk, and with fat
performs the useful function of preventing
too rapid waste of other tissues. Finally
we must add water to the list, forming as it
does a large part of every bodily tissue, and
proportionately more in that of an infant
(over 6G per cent) than in the adult.
The milk contains each of these ele
ments, albumen, fat, salts, sugar and water,
as has been many times demonstrated by
chemical experiment, and it would seem at
first sight that it could make little or no
difference to the infant whether the milk
came from a human being or irom one of the
lower animals, such as the cow. But we
find upon more intimate acquaintance with
me mil k oi otnerammais mat it presents
many curious and important differences
from mothers' milk.
First, as regards the albumen of milk, so
necessary for the body building of the grow
ing baby, we find that cons' milk has a
larger proportion of albumen than mothers'
milk. While at first sight this might seem
a desirable addition, inasmuch as it wonld
appear to increase the nutritive value ot this
fluid, as a matter of fact experience shows
that for the baby it is auite the contrary.
This increased proportion of albumen is
precisely one reason why cows' milk is less
digestible for the infant than its natural
iood.
A Dlflerence In the Cards.
The albumen of milk is principally repre
sented by caseine, which, as is well known,
is the principle that coagulates and forms
curds when milk becomes sour; the same
thing (curdling) occurs when milk is being
digested In the stomach, due. of course, to
the action of the acid gastric Juice. The
caseine of mothers' milk, however, forms
light and fiocoulent little cutds in the in
fant's stomtch, which are easily digested.
The caseine of cows' milk forms' hard and
coarse little lumps which are digested with
difficulty. So that, although the actual
proportion of albumen is greater in cows'
milk, its value is actually less, because it is
less easily and completely utilized in the
body.
In the matter of fats most analyses give
more to cows' milk, and the camels true of
the salts, while of sugar it contains less than
mothers' milk. The latter is also invariably
alkaline, while cows' milk is at best only
faintly so immediately after milking, aud
is very frequently slightly pcid when pur
chased. Babies fed upon cows' milk require
a larger quantity than of mothers' milk,
aud a greater quantity also passes off in the
waste excretions of the child, showing that
the cows' milk is not so well assimilated
and utilized to form new"ti6sue.
Consequently, it we are to answer the
question. "What shall the babv cat?" we
skould always reply, "Its mother's milk,"
as being the most digestible and nourishing
food that can be given to it; and it is incon
ceivable that a mother who understands
these facts could allow any selfish dislike to
the necessary confinement, or the engage
ments of fashionable life, to interfere with
her responsibilities to her dependent child.
Certain conditions of her own health, how
ever, would make it her duty to provide
other nourishment, and these are, especially,
tuberculosis, very marked anaemia, or
even an excessively nervous temperament
The Importance of Quality.
In these conditions the quality of the milk
is commonly so deteriorated as regards one
or another of Its essential elements as to
make it but poor diet for the growing child.
In the caso of a tubercular mother there is
actual danger that the disease may be di
rectly transmitted to the ohild through the
germs which are found in the milk of dis
eased individuals. Under such conditions
good cows' milk properly prepared is far
better than a poor quality of mothers'
milk, and should always be preferred to it
The lack of sufficient albumen in the
baby's food will result in lessened growth
and poor vitality; shown practically in too
slowly increasing weight (the normal being
about one pound per month) and in gener
ally flabby flesh. A pair of scales should be
kept in every nursery and may be consulted
from time to time to ascertain whether the
child is properly advancing in growth. It
not so advancing, the diet ot the mother
should be carefully supervised, and her
milk analyzed to discover any deficiency.
Aine poor in mineral salts and fat may in
duce rachitis (rickets) in children, which
manifests itself principally in changes in
the bones of the head and extremities, but
also often in an irritable nervous svstem,
poor digestion and other evidences of mal
nutrition which can here only be hinted at
Dk. Mary T. Bissell.
WHAT WOMEN WANT TO KNOW.
Facts Aboat Drn;n, Corns and Bunions and
Slippers for Evening; Wear.
Shirley Dare answers below a few of the
many queries that have been sent to her
recently by readers of The Dispatch:
H. B. Is resorcin any good as a cosmetic?
It is used for skin diseases by the ex
tremely German practice of the day, tfnd
doubtless has its uses. But I freely say that
experience does not recommend any of the
class of antipyretics in which it ranks, for
toilet practice. The new drugs are powerful,
risky and not too well understood even by
the profession. Kesorcin is used in parasitic
disease, or skin fungus, liko ringworm, but
is too caustic for acute diseases. Cases of
poisoning by absorption through the skin
happen frequently enough with the new
drugs to render any one healthily careful of
using them as cosmetics. The accumulated
action of such drugs as iodol, resorcin, salol.
napthol and their increasing coterie, used
dally in toilet preparations,, would be a
source of danger beyond any ordinary use in
medicine. The President of the British
Medical Association, in last year's address,
warned the profession against the new drucs
until their action should be more fully
studied, and women would better leave an
tipyretics and coal tar derivations to the
doctors, reservingto themselves theprecious
therapeutics and cosmetics of the sweetest,
blandest herbs and flowers.
270, Lowell (1) Is there anything which
will cause the blood to circulate in my
feet? They are always cold, and I have
tried cold footbaths without success.
Take hot footbaths, rubbing the skin dry,
and sprinkle cayenne pepper in the soles of
the stockings.
(2) Is there anything that will relieve
or remove bunions?
Bub daily with dark vaseline and wear
very thin waxed silk over it This is pre
pared by shaving bits of paraffine wax over
thin white lining silk, and smoothing with
a hot iron. It this does not relieve the
bunion, apply iodine salve, 16 grains to the
half ounce. Wear a rubber protector made
for bunions. Soak the feet in hot water
with wood ashes added, or a teaspoonful
of washing soda to a pail of water. A warm
poultice of flaxseed at night often eases a
great deal.
M. C. What will take awavsoft corns?
Moisten them with salicylic acid, four
parts in 20 parts of collodion or alcohol.
Vaseline will sometimes soften and remove
them. It will prevent corns if applied
every time after the feet are washed. It
should be rubbed between the toes to keep
the skin healthy and prevent maceration by
the secretions abundant there.
Maidens. White slippers must be worn
with white silk evening dress, and a piece
of the dress is usually sent to a fashionable
shoe dealer, to be made into slippers to
match. Or iow shoes of white ooze leather
are furnished by the best class houses for
evening wear. Your screen-fan ot feathers
is pronounced all right for evening use,
with other toilets, but a white drpss de
mands a white Inn to correspond. The
fashion of a few years since, which allowed
black slippers, black gloves and black fan
with any sort of dress, is past. The effect
was artistically wiong, bringing detail into
prominence which had no harmony with the
rest of the dress.
THE MOST EXPLOSIVE COMPOUND.
Chloride of Kitrogen So Dangerous That It
Hasn't Been Analyzed.
Pearson's 'WeeKly.
The most unstable compound known to
chemistry, and therefore the most explosive
substance'so far discovered, is chloride of
nitrogen, which probably consists of three
parts of chlorine united with one of nitro
gen. Its terribly explosive character.which
has so far prevented its accurate analysis,
is due to the fact that it is a combination of
one of the most active with one of the most
inert elements in nature. It is a volatile
liquid of brownish color and pungent
fast, discovered by the French
chemist, Dulong, who lost an eye
and three fingers in the operation.
Faraday and Davy experimented on it a
few years after its discovery, protecting
themselves with glass masks, which were in
turn shattered by explosions of minute
quantities of the dangerous compound. Far
aday was stnnned by the disintegration of a
few drops which he merely touched with a
piece of warm cement
There is but little danger of chloride of
nitrogen ever being used for purposes of
deliberate destruction, as its preparation on
a large scale is practically impossible. Its
explosive force is not known, for the reason
that any attempt to determine it would
probably prove fatal to the experimenters.
According to some authorities, the more
recently discovered compound of hydrogen
and nitrogen, known as azoimide, is even
more explosive than chloride of nitrogen.
but this substance is still too obscure for a
decisive judgment to be formed on the sub
ject HOW THE NAVAJO HUNTS.
He Csos a Mirror to Tempt the' Fat Pralrlo
Doc From His Home.
St. Nicholas, i
Living almost wholly upon game as they
do, the Navajos cannot be prevailed upon
to taste either fjsh or rabbit I have known
some very ludicrous things to happen when
meanly mischievous Americans deluded
Kavajos into eating either of these forbid
den dishes; and sometimes there have been
very serious retaliations for the ill-mannered
joke. Babbits are wonderfully num
erous in the Navajo country, being molested
only by feathered and four-footed enemies;
but' the Indian who would fight to the death
sooner than touch a delicious rabbit stew is
greedily fond of the fat and querulous
prairie dog.
That whole region abounds in ''dog
towns," and they are frequently besieged
by their swarthy foes. A Navajo will stick
a'bit of mirror in the entrance ot a burrow
and lie behind the little mound all day, if
need be, to secure the coveted prize. When
Mr. Tusa ventures from his bedroom, deep
underground, he sees a familiar image mock
ing him at the front door; and when he hur
ries out to confront this impudent intruder,
whiz ! goes a chalcedony-tinped arrow
through him, pinning him to the ground so
that he cannot tumble back into his home.
as he has a wonderful faculty for doing even
: j.-iL ji l j j'. j. 1 1.I-J
in death or a dark hand darts from behind
like lightning, seizes his chunky neck safe
ly beyond the reach ot his chisel-shaped
teeth, and breaks bis spine with one swift
snap.
1892.
THE .WEDDING BELL
It's Too Old-Fashioned to Be Used by
Anybody bnl the Erjglisli.
BARE FLOWERS IN K0VEL FORMS.
Suggestions for the Decoration of tho Home
for the Summer.
A BIT 0? GOSSIP ABOUT TJIE AST0RS
fwniTTEx ron the dispatch.
Set designs in the floral decorations for
weddings are no longer as much in vogue as
formerly. Tlio wedding bell 13 almost en
tirely relegated to the English,to whom it Is
a distinct novelty. Occasionally one soes a
floral horseshoe, four-leaved clover or sev
eral large links of a chain of flowers, which
may typify wedded happiness or irksome
bondage, according as one views it with sen
timent or cynicum, but for tho most part,
the wedding blossoms are irregularly dis
posed. Potted plants and banks of rosea in
window seats and mantels with low bowls
and tall vases of bloom admit of variation!
in arrangement Floral curtains and por
tieres are also much seen and are an economy
of flowers, as comparatively few blossoms
and green sewn lightly on cheese cloth make
an excellent showing.
In rooms where the doorways have brass
grill work, a charming effect Is produced
with smilax wreathed lightly through the
meshes and allowed to fall in an irregu
lar fringe over the opening. In less
modemjiouses, the open work may be well
simulated by a piece of hammock netting
stretched taut across the upper doorway,
and nearly conoealed with the intertwining
greens. At the Faster wedding of an only
daughter, a portrait of the beautiful bride,
done by a famous artist had its gilded frame
replaced by a pasteboard one that was en
tirely hidden with closely massed orange
blossoms; the picture then rested on an easel
of foliage.
A New Freak ot .Fashion.
Fashion is nothing if not capricious. Hay
ing evolved the Victoria bonnet recently
shown in this letter with a plethora of veil,
sho takes the naturally small remnant left
after such riot of creation and
sends out the Lenora capote, a
tiny puff of red velvet arranged
carelessly on a shape of coarse black net A
bandeau of jet beads outlines the puff and
black feathers and aigrette are quite at the
back. Probably a unanimous masculine
reflection on this model may be, "What a
perfect theater bonnet"
Bnlldlnc a Honse to a Piazza.
The piazza furnishings of the summer
home have come to be aistinct considera
tion in its preparation. The evolution of
this al fresco apartment from the old-fashioned
doorstep is typical of the rapid ad
vance of this generation in many more
vital things. In our summer homes now,
houses are built around piazzas and the
villa without its piazzas upstairs and down
and from every side is the exception. In
the stately summer palaces at Newport,
miscalled cottages, the piazza belongings
are choice and costly and are usually
brought in every night to be set out again
in the morning. As Eastern rugs, luxuri
ous divans, the most expensive hammocks,
dainty tables, a 5 o'clock tea service and
plants in beautiful jardinieres make up the
list, this care is necessary. Less preten
tious and equally enjoyed piazzas are fitted
in general kind if not in degree. Color is
not only permissible, but almost obligatory
in this out-of-doora living room; glowing
red for cushions and hammock, bright yel
low for pots, warm shades in the mats and
rugs, with gay striped awnings at the sunny
corner are not too garish in the toning en
vironment of plants and vines, soil, tree
and sky. For durability in covering the
low, broad couch, w hich is sine qua non
of piazza equipments, furniture cordu
roy cannot be surpassed. It stands mois
ture and will wear almost indefinitely. If
this is too expensive to begin with, Turkey
red is effective, and there is always the
range of cretonnes,chintzes and other cotton
stuffs. Have a table for litter ot work and
a rack for conveniently holding the news
papers, which the men of the family will
strew about. A rattan couch is light and
easily moved, and with plenty of cushions
is very comfortable; a good one costs about
(IS. but lasts a long time.
When it comes to the question of cushions
throw discretion to the winds. Have all of
them that you can and then have a few
more. Many chatelaines keep extra slips
and on special occasions impress the bed
pillows into cushion service. Finally, give
the piazza a used look by living in it, tor,
alas, an exaggeration ot elegance occasion
ally attacks these delightful spots, which
is respected by the careful owner to the
verge of "best room" coldness and for
mality. The Lnrty Makes Berseir Known.
In a fashionable apartment house not
long ago one of the tenants was giving a
luncheon. At the last moment it was dis
covered that the supply of bread was likely
to run short, and the waitress in spotless
cap and, apron was hastily sent to the near
est bakery for more. As she stepped out
on the landing, the door of the opposite
apartment also opened and its mistress ap
peared. The two waited in the small space
tor the elevator, and on its arrival the maid
respectfully drew back for the other woman
to enter first When ahe had done so the
waitress started to follow her iuto the car,
but she was waved ba"k with a command
ing gesture: 'Tou will wait," she said,
"until I go down."
The elevator sank with its aristocratic
burden, and the maid, impressed with her
need lor haste, took to the stairs, rather
than accept further delay. If such an in
cident needs any comment it is on the ease
with which one may pick out the "lady" in
the affair.
Bobbins IMilsky Into the Face.
"My maid," says a woman, "who came to
me according to her own account 'from the
best families in h' England ma'am,' insists
upon bathing my face every night iu
whisky.' She nses a flannel cloth and rubs
it well with the liquor, leaving it glowing
and rosy. I can see that it has much less
ened my too great former pallor.
"And her recipe to whiten hands is also
one to recommend. Strain and heat eight I
The Lenora Capote.
tablespoonfuls of pale strained honey with
two tabletpoonfuls of vegetable glycerine;
when it Is cold, dissolve three drams citric
acid crystals in two tablespopnfuls of recti
fied spirit, which add to the other mixture
and bottle. The compound may be per
fnmed with a lew drops of any desired essence."
Latist Noveltlen la Barbie.
Chestnut sandwiches nro an addition to
the list of edibles, which Includes nowa
days almost everything in the larder. The
chestnuts are boiled soft, then peeled and
passed throngh a wire sieve, the pasto thus
obtained spread between small triangles or
oblongs of bread from whicli the crust has
been neatly cut Some cooks use a dust of
cinnamon or mace, preferably the latter,
with the paste, but it should be remembered
that the chestnut flavor la a peculiar, fleet
ing one, and does not bear much tampering
with.
Ginger sandwiches get their name from
the bits of dry candied ginger root placed
between their cavers. Chocolate sand
wiches call for an abundance of grated
sweet chocolate.
An Ator Djaghter-ln-Ieiw.
Xhe sudden death of William Astor com
pletely prostrates his young daughter-in-law,
Mrs. John Jacob Astor, IIL Be
tween the two existed a warm attachment
not to be gauged by her brief connection
with the family. Mrs. Astor is also ten
derly fond of "the young wife of her only
son, which, in the case ot parents to whom a
quartet of daughters has been vouchsafed,
is the more remarkable.
A Solatlon of Carbolic Acid.
For use as a disinfectant, mix carbolio
acid with boiling water. Th'is promptly
overcomes the usual antagonism between
the acid and water and converts them into a
permanent solution which will keep for
weeks.
Mabgaeex H. Welch.
THE PBOPEH WAY TO SIT.
No Strain Upon the Spine or Muscles If the
Position Is Correct.
A proper Bitting position requires that
the spiue shall be kept straight, and that
the support needed for the upper part ot the
body shall be felt In the right place, says
Caroline Le How in Zadiei' Home Journal.
Therefore, sit a3 far back as possible in the
chair, so that the lower end of the spine
shall be braced against the back of the seat
If this back is straight the shonlders will
also rest against it; if not, they will have
no point of support, and It will be found
that they do not need it This position
makes no strain upon the ligaments of the
spine. It allows a proper position of the
shoulders, consequently of the chest, con
sequently of the lungs, stomach and every
other organ of the body.
Their work is carried on natnrally and
comfortably, as is also the circulation of the
blood, which in a wrons sitting position is
seriously interfered with. With the feet
resting squarely upon the floor, the hands
resting easily upon the lap, perfect equi
librium, aim consequently perfect rest of
the body, is secured. There is no strain
upon any part of the body; no muscle or
organ is required to do more than its legiti
mate amount of work. The arms should
never be folded; for this position not only
causes a strain upon the spine, and all the
other evils already referred to, but, in
addition, places the weight of the arms
upon the stomach and the diaphragm,
thereby increasing the labor of digestion
and respiration. Placing the hands oehind
the back, or folding the arms behind the
back, if possible, is a good attitude to take
occasionally, giving, as it does, the fullest
expansion to the whole upper part of the
body.
WALKING IN A CIBCXB.
Explanation of TVhy People lost in the
Woods Don't Go in a Straight IJne.
fPearson's 'SV'eeUr.l
The fact that "people lost on a desert or
in a forest invariably walk in a circle is due
to slight inequality in the length of the
legs. Careful measurements of a series of
skeletons have shown that only 10 per
cent had the lower limbs equal in length;
33 per cent had the right limb longer than
the left; while in 55 per cent the left leg
was the longer. The result of one limb
being longer than the other will naturally
be that a person will, unconsciously, take a
longer step with the longer limb, and con
sequently will trend to the right or to the
left, according as the left or right leg is the
longer, unless the tendency to deviation is
corrected by the eye.
The left leg being more frequently the
longer, as evidenced by measurement of
the skeleton, the inclination should take
place more frequently to the right than to
the left, and this conclusion is quite borne
out by observations made on a number of
persons when walking blindfolded. Fur
ther, on measurement of the arms, it is
found that in 72 per cent the right arm is
longer than the left; while in 2-1 per cent
the left arm is the longer, showing that a
considerable majority of persons are right
handed and lelt-Iegged. The inequality in
the length ot the limbs is not confined to
any particular sex or race, but seems to be
universal in all respects.
PKATEE-SIICE3 OF THE PUEBI03.
Thousands ot These Mate Mesensers to Be
Seen In a Day's Kliab'e.
St Nicholas.
How many of my yonng conntrymen who
have read of the "prayer-wheels" of Bur
mah, and the paper prayers of the Chinese,
know that there 13 a mechanical prayer
used by thousands of people in the United
States? The Pueblo "prayer-stick" is quite
as curious a device as those of the heathen
Orient; and the feather is the chief part of
it
Prowling in sheltered ravine3 about any
Pueblo town, the curiosity seeker will find,
stuck in the ground, carefully whittled
sticks, each with a tult of downy feathera
(generally white) bound at the top. Each
of these sticks is a prayer and none the
less earnest and sincere because so mis
guided. Around the remote pueblo of Zuni
I have counted over 3,000 of these stranee
invocations in one day's ramble; but never
a tithe as many by any other pueblo.
According to the nature of the prayer,
the stick, the feathers, and the manner of ty
ing them vary. The Indian who h as a fa
vor to ask of the Trues prepares his feather
prayer with great solemnity and secrecy,
takes it to a proper spot, prays to all those
above, and plants the prayer-stick that it
may continue his petition after he has gone
home.
THE OYSTEHS IN HIS CEIIAB.
A Farmer Who Fed the Jlollnski So as to
Have Them Fat and Fresh.
Harper' Tonne reople.1
Years ago, a family lived on a farm in a
little country town, where there was no
railroad, and the nearest city was a number
of miles distant. The father was very fod
of oysterB, and how do you suppose he man
aged to have some always "at hand?" He
would drive to the nearest city, buy a bushel
of "real live" ones, and bring them back
home with him. But that was not all. They
were then carefully placed in rows along
the cellar floor, where it was rather dark
and cool, and a little damp.
The most interesting part, however, was
to keep them alive. Every little while
some one would go "down-cellar" and feed
them by sprinkling them with meal and
with water, pne ot the little girls in the
family, w ho is now grown up, says she can
remember how the oysters closed their
shells with a snap after they were fed; but
perhaps that was only in her imagination.
Anyway, if they happened to be forgotten
tor a time, they wonld be found patiently
waiting with their shells open, ready to re
ceive their next meal!
FUE TIME DIENSTE.
Bow Housewives of Berlin Solve tne
Servant Girl Problem.
A REWARD FOR FAITHFULNESS.
Purses With the I.esa Sensible Accompani
ments of Medals, Etc.
KEFORilS BROUGHT ABOUT BY W01IE5
rCORHESPOUDErCE OF TnE DISPATCIM
BERWif, April 28. A meeting was held
not long ago in the magnificent City Hall
by the "Housewife Union of Berlin" for
the purpose of publicly rewarding servants
of the members for years of faithful service.
The reward took the substantial form of a
handsome silver pin engraved with the in
itials of the union and the words "He ward
for Faithful Service," an engraved certifi
cate, a copy of the union's cook book, and a
sum of money determined by the time of
service. These meetings take place once a
year.
The "Housewife Union" is one of the
most energetic women's organizations in all
Germany. It was founded by Frau Lina,
Horgenstem. Public interest in the experi
ment grew each year, and now, thanks to
gifts and legacies, this branch ot the union
is self-supporting, and quite out of debt
To be entitled to a prize a woman must
serve at least five years in the same house
hold, after which time she receives the pin
and the certificate. She receives, after ten
years in the same family, the cook book
and 10 marks in gold; after SO years tho
gets 20 marks, and after 30 years in the
same household 30 marks is the sum given.
The Awarding or the Frizes.
The council hall used forthe annual meet
ing was filled to overflowing with an inter
ested crowd of women and old men here and
there, looking, and probably feeling, very
much out of place. In the front row sat
from 20 to 30 servants of all ages, dressed
in their best, and fully appreciative of the
importance of the occasion. The meeting
was opened by the president of the union
Fran llorgenstern herself, a short, stout
woman with white hair and a bright, kindly
face.
She spoke to the servants present, em
phasizing the good their example must do,
and contrasting the security ol their posi
tion with the lot of the factory hand and
the shop girl. The employer came in for
a little of the praise as welL
Then the list of those to be rewarded was
read, and the women came -forward, one by
one, to receive the prizes. The first name
announced was that of a working house
keeper, who had served SO years in the
same place, outliving two generations aud
now, in her old age, cared for as one of the
family. This announcement evoked a
storm of applause, and the audience was
much disappointed when told that this
faithful creature was too old to make the
journey from her distant country home, and
that her prize had already been forwarded
to her. Kext on the list came another
housekeeper, whose term of service had
lasted 38 years; then a cook of 30 years'
standing in same household; another of 28;
and another of 2G. All these lived in
country towns, not far distant Then came
six women, all of whom had served 23
years in families here in Berlin; then ona
who had served for 24 years; another for 23,
and so on. Twenty.eight in all were re
warded the majority having served for
more than 20 years in the same family.
Qolte a Contrast to America.
Touching stories of fidelity in misfortune,
of honest attachment born of pride and in
terest in the employer's family, were told,
and it was hard to believe, in listening,
that we were in the latter half of the nine
teenth century and in the heart of a great
city. Originally the high prices of lamily
supplies had attracted the atteDirow-of-Srart - -
Monrenstern, and her public lectures on the
subject occasioned considerable excitement
They aroused the women to action, the
union was formed, and a regularly organ
ized boycott finally bad the desired efTect of
lowering prices on the necessaries of lite.
The union then turned its attention to char
ity. Then came a time when- the adultera
tion of food was carried to such an excess
that it was impossible for any but the rich
to obtain proper nourishment Here again
it was the union which stepped to the front
and obtained legal protection lor its labora
tories established for the purpose of detect
ing adulterated food.
Besides the so-called "People's Kitchen,"
an institution similar to the diet kitchen in
New York, and the committee for prize
giving, the union has under its protection a
tree intelligence office and a cooking school,
one of the 'most thorough of its kind.
Gkace Isabel Colbrojt.
Lemon and
Orange.
Dr. Price's Delicious Flavoring-
Extracts of Lemon ai'
Orange are made from the
fruit and have their grateful,
agreeable taste, without the
turpentine odor which is
observed in those extracts
usually sold, made from poi
sonous oils, acids, and taste
sharpened by cayenne pep
per. Those who wish choice,
pure extracts, should try Dr.
Price's. They are all that 13
represented, pure, strong and
of fine flavor, and stand alone
in the market in these import
ant respects. Be willing to
pay a fair price for a pure
article.
FINE WALL
PAPERS
Im.lMl8 & Co.'s,
Ml WOOD STREET 541
BANK Of COMMERCE BUILDnrQ.
Telephone 133L
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