Pittsburg dispatch. (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, April 24, 1892, Page 13, Image 13

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    BOH
I RQML
How the Greatest Lady Artist
in the World Lires in
Ker Frencli Oastle.
CAUGHT SKETCHING SHEEP
Der Caricatures of Her Enemies
When Slie.Was a Schoolgirl.
EXPERIENCES IN MALE COSTUME.
Fooled the Hough Busy Ken When She
Painted Her Horse fair.
A TEEP AT HEE LIOXS AXD OTHER PETS
tconr.EsroxDrvCE or the dispatcho
Paeis, April 1L All the villages in the
district of Fontainebleau are peopled by
artists xiho lead a vfty retired life and
without fatigue constantly observe nature
while encaged upon their pictures. Among
all these artisis' homes noise is more attrac
tive than Castle Thomery, the residence of
Rosa Bouheur, the greatest lady artist that
the world has ever seen.
An old servant in a rather shabby livery
received me at the gate. I handed him my
EOSA BOSHETJE'S DEXIZEXS OP THE HIGHLAND.
letter of introduction, but he shook his
head doubtfully.
"I don't know, sir, she Is at work and
does not like to be disturbed, but I will
see."
He returned shortlv. "Please follow
rae," and led me through the rather nc
lectcd garden. "She is studying froa.
nature," he smiled, "out on the meadow, as
madame calls it. As soon as she moved out
here all the well trimmed lawns of the
parks were turned into pasture grounds."
Fainting Some Angora Sheep.
He left me at the end of the avenue and a
straujre sight met my eyes. The old lady
she i now 70 was standing before the easel
end vigorously applying the brush to her
canvas while a few Angora sheep were
driven about by a young peasant girl.
She v.as dressed in a rather short black
cress covered entirely by a large apron,
over which she wore a dilapidated fur man
tle; around her shoulder she had wrapped
D green shawl, as it was rather cold. Coarse
shoes and an old straw hat completed her
costume.
It was the first time T had met a lady so
indifferent to her costume and appearance.
Her short hair had turned gray and her
features bore the signs of old age, but still
revealed that energy which speaks out of
her pictures.
She nodded to me without stopping in her
work. "In a moment, sir." Then step
ping back and looking alternately at the
painting and the sheep, she began:
"So you would like to hear something of
the events of my life and the becinning of
my career. Mon Dieul that is so long ago.
1'ou sec, I no longer make a secret of my
ace. Vovez niv father was a teacher of
drawing in Bordeaux, and had his hands
tnll in bringing up four children on his
slender salary. And my mother assisted
as well as she conld in giving music lessons.
"We are a laborious family everv one of us
en artivt. My sister Tuliette (now Mme.
Peysollc) paints mostly sheep, my brother
August prelers cow, Isidore is a sculptor
and I paint everything as long as it can
creep, crawl, jump or fly."
She Has a Vein of TTamor.
At the firt glance I thought she would be
rather reticent and drv in her conversation,
Judging from something hard and masculine
in her face and the straight, compressed lips,
and nas agreeably surprised by her vivacity
and the vein of humor which seemed the
kevnote of all she said.
"My mother died when I was about 7.
Then Bordeaux became intolerable to my
lather and he brought us all to live in Paris.
He gave us in board to an honest, childless
widow, 'Mere Catherine' we called her. Mou
Dieu! how unendurable it was for me to sit
beidc the old lady all day long and sew or
knit or, pire encore, help in the domestic
woik It was an impossibility and, escaping
whenever I could, I rambled about the Bois
de Boulogne, which was a wilderness then
c.impared to what it is now. One dav my
lather came home full of joy and told me
he would be able to put me in a boarding
school in exchange lor the drawing lessons.
It was one of the best boarding schools in
Paris, where there were none except rich
young ladies. They were taught all the ac
complishments desirable for society.
"My good lather," she said musingly,
"wished for a simpler kind of education
more in harmonvwith his means, but choice
was not lelt to him, and he eagerly seized
on the lortunate opportunity consoling
himself that I would become an accom
plished lady and that my intercourse with
well-bred girls would modifv mv abrurjt-
ness of disposition. Poor fattierl
Made Caricature in School.
"All my habits proved so antagonistic to
those of the school that he gave up all
hopes of my ever improving or gaining my
liuag. How well do I remember myself in
ruy thin print gown and disheveled hair;
my total unconcern about dress horrified
the other pupils, who shunned me and
called me 'little beggar,' but I cruelly
avenged myselC I made pea and ink
caricatures of them and took care not to
flatter. I did not even spare the mistresses.
Altogether I was very lazy except in draw
ing, which I could practice all day. And 1
have remained much the same all my life."
People have assured me, who know her
Intimately, that she is rather ignorant in
most matters which well educated leaders
are supposed to be acquainted with. She
does not even speak French correctly, and
a regard the orthography in her letters
many a school girl could put her to shame.
"Bieu, soon after," she resumed, "we
lived in a small apartment on the sixth
floor ith a little terrace on the roof. This
ras generally used to drv the linen, but I
soj iound another co for it besides. I
bro&ght home a little li"nb which wa pre
sented ir.e by n friend and irstailed it there.
Xrc rny leisure moments I drew it ovr and
over again in every passible position, and
one i.ight, alter I had succeeded in making
a 'air drawing, 1 said to my lather:
"I wish to become a cattle painter."
Then I b'S11 to make excursions into the
country to paiot irom nature and mixed
freely with ca:tis dfalers so that I became
thoroughly aequilated with the ways of
cnimals."
'When did madame score her first suc
cess?" I asked politely.
Her First Salon Picture.
"InlSUI for the first time exhibited
two pictures in the Salon. One of rabbits,
the other of goats and sheep. Since then
fortune smiled on me, thoaghTit was quite a
etep from the humble beginner to the artist
who had won all the Salon prizes and upon
whom Empress Eugenie herself conferred
the cross of the Legion d'Honncur. lata
the onlv woman who has received thatcros
for intellectual achievements," and her eves
flittered with pride, for it is the joy of her
lite; even the exorbitant prices she receives
for her pictures from her English purchas
ers cannot outweigh it.
In the meantime she had finished her
sketch and motioned me to take a look
tit. ...
"Don't vou think these sheep look excel
lent in the barren, wintry landscape. But
people want them painted in their native
conutry and so I have to invent some scen
ery, as I have never traveled so far. This
scene could appear more natural, but it
would not satisfy the public, and we artists
onlv care for the effect,you know."
The peasant girl drove away the sheep, a
servant packed up the easel and painting
utensils aud so we walked back, she leaning
lightly on my arm. I asked her about her
present occupations.
She Tafcrs Life Very Easy.
She told me she let no day pass without
doiug something; she was an early riser, but
indulged in a nap during the day and re
tired to bed early, so she could most likely
prolong this mode of life tor quite a while,
and later on "Eh bien!" she exclaimed,
"all things come to an end."
Then the told me that she was lately en
paged in paintiuc a lifesizc portrait of
Buffalo Bill, who had been her guest at
Thomerv. And that, besides a number of
small pictures for the market, she had de
voted much time to her lions.
"Yes," she smiled, "I have a pair of lions
in my menagerie," and she led me to the
cages which, uulike those in the zoological
gardens, are very spacious and contain in
he middle an artificial stony eminence and
i tank of water. She then led me through
le stable. There were horses and cows of
every breed by the dozen, a herd of sheep,
goats, a number of rare animals and any
amount of smaller ones like rabbits, poul
try, etc
At last we arrived at a sort of reception
room, ornamented principally with pictures
mostly by modern animal painters, among
them several excellent Troyons, whose
pupil she was for some time. The furniture
was exceedingly plain, for she never had
any taste for luxury.
Jot Like Ordinary Women.
She is a peculiar woman, the complete ab
sence in her of all the sentiments and of
ail tne necessities which usually character
ize her sex is everywhere obvious. People
affirm that she never used perfumes in all
her life, that millinery and'dressmaking are
a horror to her and that she wears jewels
only on rare occasions. For her meals she
enjoys strong, nourishing food, not much
better than that of the better situated peas
ants, only that it is served in a better style.
It is also said that she has but little love for
family life and that has never been attached
Rosa Bonheiir.
to any one half as much as to her horses and
cattle. It is a fact, however, that she never
married and no loTe affair ever came to the
notice of the public.
.Notwithstanding her castle is always fre
quented by a crowd of artists as well as men
of the world and she moves among them in
her nonchalant, Bohemian manner, in her
careless toilet, always chatting away, now
and then smoking a cigarette and retiring
and sitting down to work when she feels
like it.
A picture, apparently of a handsome
young man with short curly hair and of a
slender yet heavy boned figure, attracted my
" ntion- On remarking it, ahe exclaimed:
"That's me 50 years ago."
This was always the costume she donned
on her sketching tours.
"My male costume," she laughed at vari
ous reminiscenses, "was verv convenient lor
liberty of study, but it also had its draw
backs, and it appears that they were never
more troublesome as when I was paintine
the 'Horse Fair.
Bonheur In Male Costume..
The horse dealers delighted to see a lad
with so much appreciation lor the horses
whose portraits I came to draw. wer ln,l
in their expressions of politeness, which
naturally resulted in the offer of apetite verre
and I, feeling ; no inclination to visit a publio
house to drink with them, was at my wits'
end to find suitable excuses, such as would
not wound these well meaning fellows to
whom my refusals were unaccountable.
But it was a jolly time after all especially
when I made sketches in the country, jumped
fences and ditches just like a boy.
"Once when I was returning from the
country in the male attire which I alwavs
wore on my travels, I suddenly heard that
one of my friends was ill, and, without find
ing time to change my costume, I hurried
to the sick room. As I was seated on the
bed of the patient, holding her hand to as
certain if there was any fever, the doctor
came in and seeing me, a young man, in
such a familiar position, hastily closed the
door and discreetly retired. Then my
friend reminded me that I was in male at
tire and that the physician may have been
led to believe what was far Irom the truth.
I immediately ran after the doctor, luckily
caught him ou the stairs and left him
greatly surprised to hear that the young
man Via Lt.l .. lad n, .-ll.. I.L- 1. 1
..u . U.MA JU3 Ml, bhV-. ICIU VllbU HIS
patient was me, ltosa uonncur.
S. J.
One of Jodse IVaxem's Proverbs.
Detroit Tree Frew.!
"When a man's party ain't takin' very
good keer of him, be gets to thinkin' some
times that mebbe the other party ain't so
dangerous to the wcllfoir of the nation as
he thought it wuz.
THE TABLE. THE
FRESH GOSSIP OP THE HOUB.
What it Woman Did While Waiting for
Her Hnsband to Dinner The Victoria
Bonnet New rroot That Ice Cream Is
Good noose Cleaning.
IWBITTEN TOR THE DISPATCH. J
A woman the other day proudly displayed
a really gigantic piece of work which she
had just finished. One of the bed covers
made of a large linen sheet which covers
bed, pillows and all and hangs over at the
sides, and which was hemstitched all around
and afterward covered all over with strag
gling pansieB worked in natnral colors.
Toward the middle of the counterpane the
flowers were massed in a large loose wreath
with a monogram embroidered in its center.
It was beautiful, but a mquntaiu of work,
and the visitor was duly astonished when its
author explained that she had accomplished
It entirely in the time that her husband
kept dinner waiting.
"We dine at 6," she says, "and I never
touched the piece until that hour. Some
times I could work 10, sometimes 40 minutes,
occasionally I have put in an hour before
Mr. B. came, but the entire pieco of work
represents the employment of this variable
time."
In this connection the recent establishing
of "Odd Minute Societies" for charitable
work is significant. Fifteen minutes per
day, aggregating an hour and a half per
week, spent in sewing for some designated
avenue of benevolence constitutes one's
right of membership.and it is remarkable the
amount of result which is evolved from this
minimum of eflort
In Amsterdam it is the fashion to an
nounce broken engagements.
There is nothing new under the sun, and
a tremendous hat that is making a sensation
in London these days under the title of
"The Victoria" is really only a reproduc
tion of a milliner's creation that delighted
The Victoria Sonnet
our mothers and perhaps some of our grand
mothers as long ago as 1S40. The hat is a
stunning affair, as the accompanying sketch
of it will show, with a poke brim of amaz
ing proportions made of finely pleated net
and edged with jet. Some black ostrich
filumes nod over it from the back, and a
ong veil depends from it in front. It has
wide strings of black ribbon. In London
lust now the voluminous veil is in fashion.
and its length is often carried to extremes,
even to the knees of the wearer,
It Is English to salt strawberries as you
would your melon.
In these housecleaning days, as almost
any woman will say, the work seems half
done when the olosets are disposed of. It
is the tuck-away nook and corners, where
things accumulate aud get thick, that are
the most difficult to overhaul. The walls
of hanging closets ought, of course, never
to be whitewashed, a caution that would
seem absurd if disregard of it were not so
often encountered. If, as often happens, in
poorly built houses there is a considerable
space between floor and wall to gather dust,
and afford insects a home, a few cents
worth of pine molding nailed down will
make the floor tight. The cracks should be
filled with putty and the floor and molding
painted and varnished to offer a smooth sur
face. Now that paints ready for rise are so
cheaply and universally obtainable, this
process comes easily within the scope of any
rubber-gloved woman.
A digression is to urge that every house
woman shall be a rubber-gloved one. "Wear
out, if must be, a $1 SO pair every spring,
and save the dicomfort and ugliness of
broken nails, roughened, stained and lacer
ated hands. To return to the closets, many
neat housekeepers think the best treatment
to closet floors (bedroom, not kitchen
closets) is to cover them with table oilcloth.
This fits in easily, is readily wiped over,
and as there is no wear upon it, is suffici
ently durable.
Some unique boudoir lamps have for
standards square cut-glass cologne bottles,
into the top of which the oil vase of silver
is set.
It is the simple dishes of a meal that need
care, for, like the little girl with a curl.
when they are good they are very good, and
when they are bad they are horrid. An
omelet, buckwheat cakes, codfish balls
who does not know the wide dissimilarity
between good specimens of these homely
dishes and those which were not good. At
a free cooking school lecture in this
city recently, the teacher demon
strated the evolution of some white cus
tards that should go down to posterity.
They were, the teacher said, an invention
of one of her pupils, a "Western woman,
and they are made as follows: Break the
whites ot lour eggs into a small teacup full
of granulated sugar, mixing them thor
oughly but not beating the eggs. Into this
is stirred by decrees a pint and a half of
rich milk previously heated thoroughly but
neither scalded nor boiled. The mixture
should be quite smooth before being put
into the cups; if not, it should be strained.
Pla:e the cups in a pan of water and cover
with thick brown or buttered paper to pre
vent their coloring. They should be quite
white when done. Bake in a moderate
oven.
A natural complement and successor to
the souvenir spoon craze is that of the tea
cup which is again upon us. In lieu of a
box of candy or a bunch of flowers a beau
may send a belle a dainty teacup and saucer
delicate as her complexion and fragile as her
promises.
Easter favors abound everywhere. The
custom of giving presents at this festival
grows every year, and when a few years ago
an occasional Easter card or an egg-shaped
box of bonbons was thelimit.of observance
in this respect, it is difficult to-day to draw
the line against any offering. A novelty
this year is the silver flower pot made with
en earthen one fitted inside for the actual
soil, which is, however, concealed by tho
higher rim ot the silver vase. Each pot
has the drain hole at the bottom, and with
a spring flower, a tulip or hyacinth spring
ing up irom its glittering bei
The surprise eggs sold at the women's ex
changes are another novelty. In these the
natnral contents of the egg are carefully re
fflJPl
0
1
moved and replaced by a tiny tor chicken,
the top of the shell being refitted to leave
no trace of having been tampered with.
The egg is then served, arid it is a genuine
surprise when one breaks the shell to be
confronted with a downy chicken.
"'
An odd use for the Japanese straw mats
sold for doorstep scats is to arrange them as
frieze or dado around a room in a summer
house. A cottage in the Adirondacks, the
bare walls of which distressed its occupant
was beautified in this way. A width of
red Japanese paper was put on as a dado,
and against this the circular seats were
tacked to touch one another, making a very
effective relief.
The pretty hairpin and other trays which
now play such an important part among the
impedimenta of the fashionable dressing
table are constantly taking on fresh faces.
Tbey are porcelain, .silver and gold, of
wood ebonized and. white, and now the art
stores are showing them ingeniously fash
ioned of heavy art linen. The pattern is
drawn thus, flat on the linen: The edges aro
buttonholed and the eyelet holes worked,
and small flowers, buttercups, panslcs or
rosebuds worked over the central surface.
The eyelets are then laeed with baby rib
bon of the prevailing color, yellow for but
tercups, violet for pansies, eta, the ribbon
tied at the top in little bows with short
ends. The lacing brings the ends together
and forms the box. Designs of hairpins
and curling tongs are sometimes seen.
These trays are not only very pretty and
dainty when finished, but possess the merit
of being very easily and excellently laun
dried by merely unlacing the corners.
It was thought that the height of com
bination effort was reached in the union suit
of the various dress reformers, but a fash
ionable London firm has produced a triple
suit, which combines low corset cover or
chemisette, drawers and under petticoat in
one garment. The stays are worn beneath
this and over the silk a wool gauze vest,
leaving nothing to be put on over it before
the gown except the dainty beautiful silk
petticoat. This latter, by the way, is made
this spring to match the gown, a notion
which makes it possible, if not obligatory,
to have a variety of silk petticoats.
The pretty fashion of bedroom candles on
the landing which has been a typical En
glish institution from time immemorahle is
widely prevalent in American country
houses. Little Queen Anne candle
sticks, exact imitations of those used
in that much quoted sovereign's
days, are sold for such purpose,
though the landing table, to be quite proper,
should be littered with its implements in
various designs. The process of choosing
one's candlestick affords a sufficient excuse
to linger thus half way up the stairs, and
everybody knows there is no goodnight
The Bedroom Candlt.
half so bewitching as that which a pretty
woman bends over the baluster to say,
The value of ice cream as a remedy for
certain intestinal troubles is being consider
ably advanced. Some, indeed most physi
cians, permit it through typhoid fever, in
sisting it shall be of the purest make. To
the story recently going the rounds in print
of the entire cure of s. case of ulcer of the
stomach by the sole and persistent use of ice
cream may be added that of a woman.known
to the writer. She suffered from a serious
affection of the eyes directlv traceable to
digestive disturbance, and her physician
finally put her upon ice cream as a sole diec
For 11 months she literallv lived upon ice
cream with the result to effect a complete
and apparently permanent cure. The
theory is that the cream furnishes ample
nourishment, while the diseased intestines,
chilled from the low temperature of the
food, are prevented from getting up inflam
mation du ring the process of digestion car
ried on by the healthy parts.
If you have an old-fashioned silver castor
don't keep it any longer tucked away on
the top shelf of the china closet Get it
down, unscrew the top piece and standard,
take out the bottle rack, leaving merely the
silver body, into which jret a tinsmith to fit
a little pan with a drawing hole to fit over
the screw hole of the castor body, and when
the silver is polished you will have as hand
some and fashionable a fern-holder for the
center of your dinner table as you could buy
for a considerable price at the stores.
Simultaneous with the English movement
to establish "lady help" offices is an inno
vation in New York City ot waitresses at
fashionable dinners. Heretofore a butler
and footman have been considered indis
pensable at such functions, but of late a
number of prominent society women have
instituted the change. Said one of them
the other day: "In everything but the de
canting of wine women excel men in serv-
init tViAW avq imnl nnrt ftnri nnteiiloea an1
their Intuitive discovering of needs is a val
uable point in this occupation."
The suggestion is being made that this
particular branch ot service be opened to
gentlewomen, not as permanent servers in
any one household, but as trained experts
to take charge of single entertainments.
There is nothing menial in the occupation,
save the tradition; all work is service to
somebody. Maeqaket H. Welch.
Ifew England Slang;.
St. Louli Globe-Democrat
The New Englanders often ridicule what
they call the senseless slang of the West,
but one of the most utterly idiotic and
brainless bits of slang that ever
came from a human tongue is a
peculiarly New Eugland creation. Tell
a New Hampshire man that you have just
seen a snake ten feet long or a horse 17
hands high and he will calmly remark, "1
want to know." "What he wants to know,
or what conld have been tbe origin of this
stupid phrase, no hnman being can conjec
ture, for In ntter silliness it surpasses.the
most extravagant slang of the wild and
woolly "West
1 GettlntT Up In the World.
Clerk If you please, sir, I shall have to
ask you to excuse me lor the rest of the day.
I have just heard of er an addition to my
familv.
Employer Is that so, Penfold? What is
it, boy or girl?
Clerk well, sir, the fact is er (some
what embarrassed) it's two boys.
"Twins, eh? Yonng man, I'm afraid
70a are putting on too many heirs."
jKiBf f il i- IJl
E
Tl
THE FASHIONABLE PARASOL.
One May Spend a Small Fortune on It
Nowadays A Beauty In Chiffon It
Should Always Absorb Light A Dell
cato Effect In Kalnbaw Colors.
rWRITTEX TOR THE D1SFATCII.1
Not since Beau Brummel walked down
Piccadilly with the first pa-asol seen In
Europe have parasols reached a more in
teresting development than now. The
makers have wakened to the esthetic possi
bilities of their commodity and some en
chanting things are to be seen.
Notable and representative is one made of
chiflon. Outside the frame the diaphanous
material is laid luxuriously on, in drooping
pulls that form broad impressionistic masses
of light and shade, over the edges falling
softly down and at the top ending m
a big soft rosette. Inside, from the ribs,
The ChrmcncUa.
ruffles of chiffon depend in a waving mass,
and through them the shadows play, as
through a cumulus cloud; and the zephyrs
gently stir them, as the leaves move over
head "in a forest Anything more ideal
could hardly be imagined.
For what are the requisites for an ideal
parasol?
To break the direct rays of the sun and,
incidentally-, to form a harmonious and be
coming background for its owner; also, as
it is held, its weight should be light As
to ornament it comes under the law of all
utility objects and is most elegant when it
helps to carry out the useful idea. Thus
the soft depending ruffle about the edge is
an embellishment that adds to usefulness,
and tbe full upper and under surfaces mak
ing broken lights and shades are delightful
ly suggestive of tbe umbrella's reason for
being. These preserve the law of unity so
necessary to a beautiful whole, and are
more effective than the most elaborate bro
cade or embroidery.
The ideal parasol should be of a texture
that absorbs light, because such textures
look cool. This is one of the merits of the
chiffon, mull, crepe de chine and lace um
brellas fashionable this year. A parasol re
flecting light, as a changeable taffeta, is
suggestive of a small satellite to the sun,
and will be the hottest looking thing in the
landscape.
Amoug the thin parasols a pretty idea is
one in rainbow colors, as if a ray of light
had contritely dissolved and spread its
beauty here instead of its heat Sometimes
the ruffles are embroidered and sometimes
With a Chiffon Rvffle.
they are of a different color from the out
side. Such umbrellaj as these are, of course,
suitable only for country use with light gar
ments. The most artistically made of them
will hardly be bought early in the season for
less than 510, though some pretty ones mar,
by chance, be culled out for f4 or ?& In
choosing see that the puffs, or threads of
shirring, run round, paralleled to the cir
cumference,'as any gathering along the lines
of radius is without meaning and inartistic.
The handles are ot bamboo and other woods,
slender and of good length.
The most exquisite and expensive of all
the umbrellas of the season are those of
white lace. One of these has an entire
cover of duchesse lace that falls far over the
edge and frames the face deliciously. It has
laid over a foundation of thin bolting cloth
and ribbon. Another of point de Venise
has fancifully shaped panels of crape painted
with Watteau figures in colors. Still an
other of white moire and satin stripes has
panels set in ot point lace. These lace um
brellas are extra large in size; the frames
and stick are white enameled. The sticks
are thick and grow thicker aud flat toward
the band, where some of them end in mother-of-pearl
inlaid with gold and silver, others
in knobs of Dresden china or colored enam
els. Snch umbrellas cost in the neighbor
hood of $75. Black lace parasols are also in
vogue, and very pretty ones are at a moder-
HovelHei tn Handles.
ate price. Some are entirely transparent;
others have a small center ot silk, making
them more substantial: and many are of silk
with a ruffle only of the lace.
But the parasol for street and other hard
service, such as the majority of ns need
most, is of something more substantial
than these, and of a price ranging between
$2 or $3 and ?5 or $6. The most fashionable
ot the silk umbrellas is called the "coach
ing" parasol. It is also the most beautiful,
as it is exquisitely finished and well
adapted to the purpose ot hard wear. It
has a short, thick club stick of natural
wood, or of wood white enameled, accord
ing to the color of the silk. The top is
small, the frame having a radiation of
about 20 inches. The material is either
changeable or brocaded silk, with a lining.
Changeable taffeta, as has been said, reflects
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too much io be agreeable, but there are
changeable twilled silks with the surface
broken by dots in the weavo. that reflect
very little. A dull tawny yellow one of
these, with gilded frame and cherry stick,
is verv rich and handsome.
A pretty distinction mav be made be-
'tween the outside and inside of a parasol
which, ir considered, should add a subtle
refinement to one's choice. The outside
wards off the sun; the inside affords a
shadow. The outside Is beheld from a dis
tance and forms part of the landscape; the
inside is seen only near at hand in conjunc
tion with the face and forming its back
ground: "The outside is the miniature
roof; the inside is the waifs ot a boudoir."
Therefore, the outside should be broadly
effective, a mass of color toned to the
landscape and the costume. It will be
more elegant without detail, and elaborate
patterns as of jet worked laboriously into
fleurs des lys and bow knots, are costly
without adding to effect But the inside
may properly be more delicate. The out
side may be of common material; but the
inside may be more exquisite in color and
texture. Without a lining, as ordinarily
finished, the parasol has always seemed K
little hard and uncomfortable, with its raft
ers bare and thatch showing through.
Linings are in most of the coaching pnra
bols, bnt they are put about tho frame work,
next the outside, and the spandrels are still
left bare, but they are nicely finished, white
enameled or gilded and this gothic manner
so treated is both serviceable and agree
able. The refinement producible by a lining is
illustrated by the effect of violet added to a
black outside, or of an olive tint, or white,
to ecru. But the lining must agree with the
fnee. The ruffled backgronnd like that of
the "Carmencita" parasol first described,
may greatly enhance beauty if rightly man
aged. For example, such a ground of gray
behind a head of iron gray hair and very
dark eyes, may be wonderfully effective:
bnt the gray must be not more delicate
than the hair. This is imperative. It
must be iron gray also.
Ada B ache-Cose.
CHE8TEBFIELD3 AT HOME.
Octavo ThaneS Thinks the Table a Good
IMace to Cultivate Cnnrtesy.
twaiTixs- roa thx dispatch.!
Any one who .has ever visited familiarly
in a French family will remember the de
lightful atmosphere of a habitual and
caressing politeness that seems to encircle
the family life. I have the honor to know
an American family who have the same po
liteness translated into our different manner
and life. The Chesterfields are not es
pecially clever or rich or entertaining; but it
Is a joy to visit them, because they are so
polite.
They are polite to each other and to the
stranger within their gates, and Mrs. Ches
terfield's maids declare that Mrs. Chester
field is as polite in the kitchen as in the
parlor. Their habitual, spontaneous, lovely
courtesy is a never-failing talisman to at
tract 1 wonder how it is that more people do
not cultivate courtesy. It can be culti
vated as much as a mustache or the habit of
smoking 1 I do not know a better place to
begin about the cultivation of these fruit
ful graces than our meal times. In how
many American families is the family meal
a time for feeding in the first place and
fault-finding In the second? There is noth
ing rdorally wrong about eating nnless one
eat too much; but it is not in itself a beauti
ful act, it needs to be embellished with good
temper and dainty service and pleasant
talk. If the Chesterfields cannot praise,
they say nothing. And I have been told
bv no less authority than the "second girl"
of the Chesterfields that they never, as
Marie expressed it, "tall about the
victuals." If anything Is good, or is made
by Mamma Chesterfield, her hnsband, who
is still her lover, praises it; and generally
on the Chesterfields' table there is plenty
to praise. The Chesterfields are not cele
brated as wits, but somehow we laugh a
great deal at their feasts and the talk never
lags. For one thing, each talker is made
to feel that he interests the others.
"Whv. indeed, should we not make our
meals seasons of enjoyment to something
higher than our palates? Many families
who do not find fault are content to eat in
silence, having not much more than the
dumb enjoyment of companionship felt by
the beasts when they feed at' the same
manger. Breakfast takes the palm for un
sociability. In the minor points of etiquette it is a
?:ood plan to have decided views about the
ork. The minds of most people wobble a
good deal in regard to this indispensable
article. I do not mean that they would oiler
the knife as a substitute, alth'ough I have
seen a German nobleman, who bad won the
iron cross and whose manners were of the
finest, eat prondly and freely with his
knife; but even among those who are
brought up from childhood on the fork,
there is a distinct uncertainty during cer
tain courses. They start boldly with the
fork in the right" hand and shift, occasion
tempting, to the left, like Howell's country
hero who dines for the first time in Boston,
and watches the guests uncertainly and
shifts his fork from one hand to the other
as his mind veers.
If you start with your fork in either hand,
no matter which, it gives you a superiority
to cling to that hand to'the bitter end.
There is a general suspicion of elegance at
tached to eating with one's unsupported
fork, rather than with the knifeand fork to
gether. In salads, for instance, the knife is
considered a superfluity; one must sbred
one's lettuce or endive with tho fork, and
crust of bread or tiny biscuit allowed one. I
find this general rule obtains, the more in
convenient, the more 'elegant! But there is
one exception, the English, and in conse
quence our admirers of the English alwais
eat"' fish in the most sensible way, with a
knife and a forte.
In the family circle the different dishes
should be passed to the oldest woman, in
most cases. But if there is a very honored
elderly man in a family of women it is al
ways a delicato attention to pass to him
first Sometimes the head of the table docs
not desire to be interrupted,and the person of
next consideration in this case should be
served first The most honored guest is
served first The gentleman of distinction
takes out his hostess and sits at her right
hand or, if you follow theEnglish fashion,
at her left and the lady to be compli
mented is taken by the host and similarly
placed. Everything is passed first to the
honored gnest
In American households I know nothing
that goes further to make the meals uncom
fortable than the uproarious liberty allowed
young children. Let the young savages be
taught to caf before they come to the table
I cannot but feel toward children at meal
times very much as the little boy in the
dark felt toward the Lord. Being assured
that he ought not to be frightened when put
to bed, because God was in the dark, be
made answer with a wail, "I know that,
but be am t no company tor me."
. Octave Thaxet.
Bow We Treat Poor I.
Not so very long ago, on a Minnesota
reservation, the Indians did a winter's log
ging. Several thousand dollars in pay
ment for their logs were given to their
agent for them. Instead of distributing it
among them he put it ont at interest for his
own benefit The agent who succeeded him
received the money, did not quite under
stand what to do with it, and washed his
hands of the responsibility by, turning it
into the United States Treasury. To get it
out will require an act of Congress, so that
tbe chances are about 100 to one that these
unlncky savages will never see a penny of
the crash due them. Such a privilege is it
to be "wards of the natlonl"
BOUND TO LOOK LOVELY.
Exquisite Styles and BeaatUal Fabrics.
Entirely Different From Last Season.
Llsht-Wefbt Wools and Cottons. A
Piquant Hat The taao Bodice.
rwjunxx ron thi disfatch.
Such etqisite styles as the spring has to
offer! Things were never so pretty before
'and women, it seems
to me, cannot help but
look lovely with such
beautiful fabrics and
fixings, and such dls
tractingly lovely and
becoming modes. All
the new styles are de
cidedly novel; they
are not last season's
renovated, but dis
tinctly different in ev
ery way. This fact is
demonstrated strong
est in the coats. There
is a marked change In
them, for whloh every,
woman must be thank
ful, so tiresome have
grown the jackets of
several seasons past
There are a number
of novelties among the
.spring styles in coats,
but the most strik.
. .u Box Com. ing departures are the
whole-back and double Watteau styles.
The first, which is a regular box coat, is de
cidedly ugly, but, nevertheless, exceedingly
smart and stylish-looking and with those pe
culiar characteristics about it that find favor
with tho ultra fashionable. On a tall wom
an with a fine carriage it is superb,
but on a short, stout figure the
effect is deplorable. So it is really a ccat
for the few. The one illustrated is of pink
ish tan broadcloth
having strapped
seams. The collar,
which is similar io
those on men's
regulation over
coats, thoueh per-hsp.nt.-ifledeeper,
is ot dark tan vel
vet. The coat is
double-breasted
and has two rows
of very large white
pearl buttons.
The hat accom
panving this coat
in the illustration
is one of the new
spring styles hav
ing the new tall
crown. It is ot
lijjht brown straw
with a band of
golden brown vel
vet about the
crown below anar-i
rower band of'
white satin. The
bow is of double
faced satin in
I brown and white.
The double Wat
teau ccat is a nov
elty over the single
pleated affair. It
is fashioned to fit
snugly, and has
two separate Watteau
Dark Watteau.
pleats at the back.
Tbe one illustrated is of coachman's white
cloth embroidered in gold. It has a narrow
vest and deep revers, and with it is worn a
jabot of Irish point lace. The cuffs are
large and flaring. The hat is of Leghorn,
bent in scollops, and has a soft Tam-o'Shan-ter
crown of old rose velvet with a mass of
buff ostrich tips nodding over the front
The new light-weight wools are exceed
ingly pretty stuffs, especially the graceful
crcpons that are so numerous in all the
Golden Brown Wool Crepon.
shops. In these there is an almost endless
variety as regards both color and texture.
The Bedford cord style is perhaps the
prettiest and makes up beautifully. It
comes both plain and figured.
A model crepon frock is in Bedford cord
effect, in golden brown, with pin-head dots
of white scattered over it It is fashioned
in a beautifullv simrde manner, having a
trained bell skirt and a shct pointed bodice
fastening invisibly on one side under the
arm and having the new style, low-shouldered
sleeves. The garniture consists of
darker brown braid of the narrowest quality
set in parallel rows about the bottom of the
hfffi r
The Jncroyabte.
skirt, the corselet, collar and wrists. A
rosette of brown satin ribbon three inches
wide is fastened at the back of the standing
collar, and has long streamers that reach
quite to the bottom of the skirt, a pretty
device which adds much to the gracefnl ap
pearance .of n woman's toilet A dainty
little muff of (.ream Irish point and violets
is tied with a delicious satin ribbon bow,
and the hat, which is entirely Of Irish point
stretched on wire, is trimmed in the same
manner with ribbon and violets.
Among all the new cotton stuffs there is
nothing lovelier than the Irish lawns,
which cut to beautiful advantage, being 40
inches wide, and selling for 12 cents.
They are sweetly pretty and look so neat
and cool for summer frocks.
A graceful mode for making them Is il
lustrated. The model frock was of white
with tiny polka dots of red. It was made
with a long skirt with a gathered back,
edged about the bottom by a coquettish
little frill. A round fan waist, buttoned
demurely with small white pearl buttons,
had pufled sleeves of plain white lawn un
lined. A scarlet ribbon belt was buckled
into a white pearl buckle.
Lace bodices are to be a feature in most
IT
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summer wardrobes. They are made np
over contrasting silk linings and may be
worn with any plain cloth or silk skirt
They are admirable for many reasons, but
esneciallv for the fact that they are
I.' "" '"' ir'll',,i -'W
'-!--
Irith Linen Frock.
species of economy, for a woman's ward
robe almost invariably has in it one or
more good skirts, the bodices of which have
been worn out, and which would be useless
bnt for tho redeeming qualities of the new
lace bodice.
The pretty creation in the pictnro Is of
cream Irish point lace made over a light
heliotrope silk lining which shows in a
graceful point below the collar, which is of
satin ribbon with a bow. Kibbons in the
form of bretelles cross the shoulders and
taper to the waist back and front, the lace
being gathered and falling in cascades
over the vest Ribbons are also set into tho
lace of the sleeves Irom the shoulder to
wrist A cut jet corslet confines tbe full
ness of the lace at the waist and adds a rich
finish to the whole. A bodice of black lace
for an elderly lady, made over black silk,
with jetted ribbon for a garniture, is made
in a similar manner.
One of the most piquant of the newer
hats is the Inerovable. It has a wide brim
flarinsr in front," and a high, very slender
A Zaee Hodtcc.
crown with an odd projecting ledge At the
top. This crown is covered smoothly with
velvet: the other trimming consists of a
large bow spreading out stiffly on either
side of a Bhme stone buckle, and two tall
princess feathers standing startlingly erect
at the Iront
The hat illustrated is of French gray
chip with a black velvet band; yellow satin
ribbon bows and black princess feathers.
Marie Joxbeau.
An Amusement of the Redskin.
The Bannocks enjoy going into an In
closjire full of wild steers, with a red
blanket on one arm and no other weapon
bnt a knife. Althougn there is some
safety in the crowd, the sport is much more
dangerous than bull-fighting after the
Spanish method. Tet they are rarely hurt,
killing each animal with a single thrust of
the knife behind the shoulder. An army
officer tells of an occasion when he saw an
Indian tumble into a stockade filled with
maddened steers. He made his escape by a
olose shave and being asked if he was not
frightened, he replied, "No, me not afraid
of anything me can eat"
Enquire
for Them.
No housewife who has used
any of Dr. Price's Delicious
Flavoring Extracts but will
recommend them as the best
articles of their kind in do
mestic use. They are the
leading flavors in America
and should be on the shelf
of every well-regulated gro
cery. Enquire for them and
do not take substitutes which
if not poisonous will destroy
the nicest delicacies. Dr.
Price's Vanilla, Lemon, Or
ange, etc., are just as repre
sented. FINE WALL
PAPERS
MTrinMe & Gos,
541 WOOD STREET 541
BANE Oi" COMMERCE " BUrLDISQ.
Telephone ISM.
133
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