WAKEHAFS TEATELS.
Co;
st and Interior Scenes in
Island of Sword and Cowl.
the
ST. rAUI'SBAYANDCITTA YECCHIA
Tiny Maltese Island That Contains Xo
Toivns, tut Six Casals.
IMPEESSITI rREOISTOKIC REMAINS
rCOEBESPOXDEXCE OF TJIE DISPATCH.!
Valetta, Maxta, March A The visitor
toSIaltaisa long while in tiring of the
historic, architectural and social attractions
of Yaletta, especially in the sunny -winter
time when day and night seem fitted with an
endless round of brilliant scenes and sayety.
But if interest in the splendid old city of
the Knights shonld begin to wane, there
would still be found an extraordinary charm
in the easily-made excursions to various
points of interest in Malta and the adjoining
islands, and a most pleasing study of the
peasantry under their curious conditions of
environment.
From ValcMa one can reach the remotest
points in Comino and Gozo, 'even by row or
sail boats, with donkers for the interior
loitering, and return to the city within day
light hours; and as to Malta itself whose
length is no more than 18 miles with an ex
treme breadth of less than 12 I have often
walked from Valetta to Fort St. Lucian on
the southeast coast, to Citta yecchia, the
ancient capital of the island, to St. Paul's
Bay, and to sunny, silent Dinglion, on the ex
treme southwestern coast, arriving still in
time for a Maltese breakfast which, if not a
meal of dainty perfection, always possesses
the aristocratic quality of interminable
delay.
Most Beautiful Coast Scenery.
The coast scenery of western Malta and
all of Gozo, is very beautiful indeed, while
occasionally it reaches positive grandeur.
For the Bible student there are the scene of
the shipwreck of St Paul and several
places made famous by the apostle's stay
upon the island. For the simply curious
traveler there are the manv ruined summer
palaces of the Grand Masters, ancient and
interesting fortalices and palaces of the
Inqnisition. The antiquarian will discover
a larger number of prehistoric temains than
upon any other equal area, with catacombs
as fine as those of Syracuse and greater than
those of Home. Geologists find extraordi
narily favorable conditions for researches,
owing to the bare, denuded condition of the
island with its rocky seashores and noble
cliff exposures. And naturalists haunt the
islands in winter for studies of its rich and
winsome tenantry of migratory birds.
The most beautiful examples of coast
scenery are to be found upon Gozo. It is
so near that a day's excursion in a little
felucca, manned by two or three picturesque
and incessantly chattering boatmen, will
give one a continuous least of changeful
scene, and almost a complete survey of all
coast points of interest. The shores of
Malta are completely lined with fishermen
or women and children gathering seaweed
for enriching the scant soil of the island,
and every little cove is alive with color and
soundful with song.
Waters Alwajs 'Warm to the Touch.
Even in winter the sparkling and phos
phorescent waters of the Mediterranean are
here bland and warm to the touch, and the
young Maltese disport in the waves during
their arduous labors like bevies of playful
teafowl; while the most dangerous cliffs and
precipices are so crowded with them in
their quest for eggs, the young of the sea
fowl inhabiting the crannies of the cliffs,
and for the arious iorms of vegetation
which are stored with miserly care for fuel
and manure, that at some distance, the
blending of colors of costume with the grays
and greens of the island craigs, often gives
the curious illusion that the seawalls are
aflame with gigantic tropical flow ers.
Gozo, which is called Gaudisch by the
native Maltese, contains no town, although
the tiny inland, which is but six miles
broad and eight miles long, is thickly in
habited. It has six villages or casals. These,
with the outlying farms, for it is a very
fertile island and under the highest degree
of cultivation, arc, or were in the old times,
protected by an ancient though massive fort
called Itabato. It is most picturesquely
situated at a great elevation in the center
of the island. From its walls, with a field
glass, I have looked upon the splendid
panorama of Malta with its terraced fields,
its old walled villages, its massive palaces,
and the far white city of Yaletta; to the
north viewed Sicily with the glistening cone
of -Etna above its dark and slender thread
of horizon line; and seen to the southwest,
like purple dots upon the shimmering Med
iterranean blue, the lonely islets of Linosa
and Larnpedusa, half way to the Tunisian
shores of Africa.
Charmingly Diversified Scenery.
The topography of Gozo is verv beautiful.
It is charmingly "diversified by hill and dale.
Many of its sunny valleys are natural and
artificial gardens of wonderful luxuriance. I
have nowhere seen their equal, save in those
manelous garden vales behind beautiful
Palermo in Sicily. The shores pre
sent, save at a very lew points, perpendicu
lar sea wails; and on the western and
northwestern coasts they often rise straight
from the water's edge to a height of over
2.000 feet. These abound in caves of great
size and splendor; their sides and brows are
the haunts of myriad sea fowl; their heights
here and there show stunted and lonely
palms; and the air about them with the skv
above are often almost white with millions
of the slowly sailing and exquisitely beau
tiful little Adriatic gulls.
I cannot vouch for the emotions of others
but as I first tramped over the heights of
Xasciar, descending into the valley beyond,
and saw spread before me the Bay of St.
Paul, a sense of awe minelcd with glorious
elation came withhe stillness and beauty of
the spot where the heroic Apostle was ship
wrecked. The bay, which is about two
miles long and one in breadth, is situated
on me nortnern coast oi .naila, and is
hardly distant a brisk two hours' walk from
the city of Yaletta. Countless excursions
are made hither by water from Malta's capi
tal, and often the roads are filled with all
manner of vehicles conveying pious or curi
ous pilgrims. I preferred coming in the
earlv morning and alone.
High upon a hill seven miles to the south
west of Yaletta stands Citta Yecchia, the
walled capital of the island before Grand
Master John de Yalette built the splendid
eity which now crowns Mount Sceberras.
At" the beginning of the Christian era it
contained the house of the "chief man of
the island" who so "courteously entreated"
the shipwrecked Paul. Its Cathedral of St.
Paul had its traditional origin during the
three months' ies:dence of the apostle, as
Publius is said to have given a portion of
his own palace as a site for the first church
and to have officiated in it as Malta's first
Bishop.
Departed Grandeur of a City.
That was a long time ago; but the anti
quated character of the city draws one
kindly to these old and loved traditions.
Seen from a distance, its mighty walls,
cumbrous structures, flat roofs, vast'palaces
and immense domes, rising like some far
and fanciful mountain of dream-built cubes,
pillars, arches and capping domes render it
the most impressive structural perspective
in Europe. When Valetta was built the
former grandeur of Citta Yecchia departed.
By and by the great mansions were trans
formed into seminaries, monasteries and
convents, and thus they remain. Its tre
mendous walls shut in few others than
monks, religious students, nuns and noviti
ates. The great statue of Juno, queen of
all the gods who presided over marriage,
which is imbedded in the main gateway,
seems straneely out of place as the escutch
eon of a citv of religious recluses.
The buildings are massive, ashen colored
by time, and strangely silent The streets
are narrow, shadowful and still. The great
dungeons beneath the huge Sanitorium,
once the palace of the Giurati, or the three
magistrates of the city, are no more palpable
with silence than are these high-walled nar
row streets. No sound i heard save the
clanging of bells as- the call to endless de
votions. Then the thoroughfares are sud
denly filled with bowed and dark-robed fig
ures for a moment, and again suddenly be
come lifeless, dark and still.
The catacombs beneath Citta Yecchia and
the prehistoric rock-hewn tombs of Mnaldra
are almost a welcome relief from the
solemnity and solemn shades of this old
place. The passages and chambers of the
catacombs are lacking mural decoration, but
they are of the same character as those at
Syracuse and are much larger than any
single examples to be found at Borne. They
are hewn out of the soft stratum of the up
per limesfone on which Citta Yecchia
stands. Xou reach them through a per- J
pendicular shaft, and a tew steps bring you
into a perfect maze of tunnels leading in
every direction, with crypts on each side
and at every possible level.
Sepulchers Almost Without End.
These tunnels and their branch tunnels
seem interminable. I counted upwards of
800 separate sepulchers, and there are no
doubt many thousands. One passage or
gallery of very large proportions was found
which opened into capacious squares or
chambers, where the crypts were fashioned
as though for the more distinguished dead.
Their proportions were more ample, and
they were "better formed in every respect
In many, a rest for the head and neck was
raised and hollowed in excellent contour;
and by the side of others were excavated
niches for urns and the lamp for votive and
other sepulchral offices.
However ancient was the race that exca
vated or required such vast area for burial,
it is certain that these crypts were equally
as extensive in the days of the Eomans,
2.000 years aeo. They are completely barren
rof all remains, as they were for a long time
used as abodes for the living, the primitive
Christians having fled to them for refuge;
and they have been on various occasions
the abodes of the early Maltese when flying
from the swords of the Goth, Vandal, Moor
and Turk. 2fo one has ever fully explored
them; and I find from the natives that the
belief among them is universal that subter
ranean passages lead to Yaletta and to
other remote points in the island.
These are not the only prehistoric remains
of great interest to be found on the islands.
Diminutive catacombs and rock-hewn tombs
are accessible in nearly every important
valley ravine or rocky gorge in both Malta
and Goza. Extensive catacombs are found
at Micabba, Tower Kadur, St Paul's and
Melliha bays, and Mnaidra; while at Hha-
giar-Kim and Mnaidra in Malta, and at the
Giant's Tower, in Gozo, I saw megalithic
monuments, rivaling in massiveness and
mystery the Stonehenge of England and the
pagan monument of New Grange, on the
Boyne, in Ireland.
Some Tremendous Monoliths.
I was shown a great and solitary monolith
standing near Har Hassan cave, on the
south coast of Malta. There is a dolman
like ruin on Cordino Hill overlooking Ya
letta. And I measured upright blocks in
the Hhagiar-Kim ruin 24 feet high, while in
the cvclopean Giant's tower I found several
with "a height of 28 and 30 feet Their addi
tional length beneath the debris surround
ing them must have been considerable. All
of these tremendous monoliths were put in
place thousands of years ago by a people
capable of quarrying and transporting them
from sandstone beds nearly a mile distant,
for the purpose of some form of adoration.
They did their work so well that while all
other traces of their race are lost, these mute
monuments have brought the story true
from almost unrecorded time of the eternal
principle of worship in the heart of man.
From my habit of wandering alone, and
much in the country, in foreign lands, I
have come to regard their birds as my most
charming chance acquaintances. Abso
lutely without trees, save those transplanted
and nurtured like exotic flowers, Mal'a
would hardly be regarded as the haunt of
birds. And yet I have seen or heard here
in midwinter nearly every one of the loved
and humble soit "well-known in summer
time in northern climes.
Along the stony roads I have kept ex
ultant pace with the hopping stonechat and
redstart, and chirped back a cheery greet
ing to hocks of chamnches among the white
and gold of the orange trees. Climbing the
cliffs, or pothering among the ruins, the
melodies of thrush or linnet have flooded
the sky from the olive trees in the valleys
below. Crossing the walled fields I have
often come upon marshalled hosts of tit
larks. Books, wrens, cross-bills and field
fares all welcomed me in a homeland lan
guage I knew.
Edgar It "Wakemast.
i French Opinion as to Alios Mitchell.
Memphis, March 25. Attorneys for
Alice Mitchell, Ifreda "Ward's slayer, have
forwarded to Dr. Prodest, of Paris, a state
ment of a hypothetical case, asking it such
a person be not insane.
AOVEBTI8SIEBMTS.
Housekeepers
are Warned
Against the impositions of a company of females, who,'
under the lead of a male agent, are infesting dif
ferent sections of the country, performing a trick
which they pretend is a test of baking powders.
It having been intimated that these persons are
the paid agents of the Royal Baking Powder Com
pany, this is to advise all concerned that this Com
pany has no relation whatever to them, that their
so-called test is a sham, and that the females are in
structed and employed to perform these tricks, and
make false statements in all-kitchens to which they
can gain access, by concerns who are trying to palm
off upon housekeepers an inferior brand of baking
powder through the operation of fallacious and de
ceptive methods.
- The Royal Baking Powder Company in no case
employs such agents, and 'whenever the name of
this Company is used to gain entrance to houses,
the applicant, no matter how respectable in appear
ance, should be regarded and treated as an imposter.
Royal Baking Powder Co.
106 Wall St., New-York.
NOTHING SUCCEEDS LIKE SUCCESS.
We want you to see the made. to measure $25 Suitings.
We want you to see the made to . measure $30 Dress
Worsteds.
We want you to see the made to measure $35 Crepes and
Diagonals.
Popular prices tell the story, bright, active, prompt, business; selling
three suits where formerly sold one prices are right; cloth satisfactory.
If you will examine our Ready to put on Spring Overcoats you'll be
pleased with quality and fit with 30 to 50 per cent in pocket.
NEW ADVERTISEMENTS.
WANAMAKER &
Hotel Anderson Block 39
BROWN,
SIXTH STREET.
mo23
WMMmffgMmiifKffMBm
m r wcwymHVMtam, m vHUKEiUk lib Man
Improvements Patented 1890 in the U. a, Canada and Eubope.
FIRE-PROOF. Easily applied by anyone. Send for Samples and Descriptive Price List.
H. W. JOHNS MANUFACTURING COMPANY,
H. W. Jrfhns' Asbestos Fire & Water-Proof Sheathing, Bnildln Felt, Steam Packings,
Boiler Coverings, Liquid Faints, Koof Paints, Roof Cement, Fire-Proof Faints, etc.
87 MAIDEN LANE, NEW YORK.
JEBSEYCITY, CHICAGO, PHILADELPHIA, BOSTON, ATLANTA, LONDON.
mhl9-C9-TTST7k i
ELEGANCE!
COMFOKT!
DURABILITY!
SATISFACTION '
Li
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fS FINE
$2, $3, $4, $5.
EVERY PAIR WARRANTED SATISFACTORY.
438and43S IWliolesale I -406-108-410
Woo3. S-t. I and Retail. Market St.
Xe23-51-TT3
GOLD SPECTACLES AND EYE-GLASSES.
We have just received a consignment of 360 pair of Solid Gold Spectacles
and Eye-Glasses, which we will offer at 3 each; the regular prices for same
are $$ and $6. The lenses are the best Russian pebble, and we will ex
amine the eyes and fit the glasses free of charge.
SOLE AGENT FOR CHEMICAL
DIAMONDS,
CQR. LIBERTY AND SMITHFIELD, AND 311 SMITHFIELD ST.
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suit's,
SELECT vour
FURNITURE
NOW
While our STOCK is NEW and COMPLETE. Never before have we
shown such a large assortment of Chamber Suits, Parlor Suits, Couches,
Mantel Cabinets, Hall Racks, Chairs, Sideboards and Tables. If you
want a single article of furniture it will pay you to examine our stock.
PRICES Well, we havemade them right. Come and seefor yourself.
JACOBS&M'GILVRAY,
51-53 FEDERAL STREET, ALLEGHENY.
. NOTICE. We are agents for the "Windsor Folding Beds."
mh22-33-TTS
YOU ARE INVITED TO
EDMUNDSON
PERRINE'S
Op inestimable value to sufferers -with
bronchial troubles, Dr. Bull's Cousjh Syrup.
ftc '
"Wonder how Jumbo would like to
take Johann Hoff's Malt Extract with
every meal? I love it Mamma says
that it is building me up after my last
spell of sickness. I must try it on
Jumbo. He is sick. One of his legs
is out of joint But only the genu
ine none of the imitations forme."
The genuine comes in squatty bottles
and has the signature of "Johann
Hoff" on the neck of every bottle.
Eisner & Mendelson Co., Sole Agents
and Importers of Mineral Waters, 6
Barclay street, New York. s
GRAND SPRING OPENING !
1
SATURDAY AND SATURDAY EVENING, MARCH 26.
...JL3STT3... 8HANDSOME SOUVENIRS"
AMERICA'S MOST MAGNIFICENT AND SUPERB DISPLAY OF
FURNITURE! KARPETS! AND HOUSEFURNISHING GOODS!
TbijjjHjL
lets you 117
to the secret how to tell the best lock
made the world-famous "YALE." Other
locks resemble the "YALE" (as the
college student's head was like his Presi
dent's), on the outside, but perfect secu
rity lies only behind the word " YALE,"
which is stamped on every genuine key.
Sold wherever locks sell.
View of One of Our Carpet Floors
etc.
BEST LINE
CH,C?T0LOUIS
TO
DENVER.
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If you'll pause for a few minutes to look over our Carpets, Curtains,
you 11 get half a notion of our imperial control of the Carpet .
World. The stock includes everything in WILTONS, AXMIN
STERS, M6QUETTES, BODY and TAPESTRY BRUSSELS, IN
GRAINS, RAGS, MATTINGS, etc. They are rich at every point.
Among the many new ones are some most delicate and dainty floral de
signs of just such little blossoms as you, may find growing between the
stones on some mountain height above the timber line. Others with
bolder floral figures, many geometrically inclined, with simple lines
waving, purling, undulating, simplicity itself, beautiful in unique or
iginality. Our buyers have gathered
THE LATEST CURTAIN THOUGHTS.
Our salespeople have been stimulated thereby to outdo themselves.
The haphazard, easy-going, poor styles have given place to the very
finest work and the most handsome designs, and Good Fortune has a
cheery smile for you in wee bit prices. .
AmmmMammm3ljm!nnv -. i'Shkn
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SCENE ON AVENUE C.
In our furniture stock we wish to be judged with critical judgment.
There is no risk of contradiction in the statement that there is no store
IN THE WORLD WHICH WILL PRODUCE ANY SINGLE STOCK EQUAL TO THAT
shown here in the number of exclusive designs. The complete adapta
tion of the goods to current fashions, the supply of every popular, econom
ical, peculiar and rich demand the resources of our FURNITURE
STOCK. It is unapproachable. A call will please you. A visit will delight
A purchase will make home forever happy.
you,
A GLIMPSE INTO PARLORDOM.
Correct Parlor Furnishment is the test-gauge of the furniture busi-
the proper collection of which calls for more delicacy of dis
crimination, more accuracy of qualify, judgment, more artistic sense
than is required by any other part of the business. Such are our no
tions of furniture management.
ness,
INCLUDE
VERYTH NGYOU
INT
TEE ElfflEIISEl DEP'T
SE
In Chinaware, Silverware, Glass, Tin, Iron, Granite
and Wood Ware, Stoves, Trunks, Pictures, Bas
kets, Lamps, Soaps, Brushes, Refrigerators, Baby
Buggies, 5cand 10c Bargain Counters, etc., etc., and
more, too. All rare picking for the housewife. This new season's stock
is generous in novel China Decorations. A glimpse over the stock makes
you think of hot-house vyies, flowers and coming springtime. You'll not
find eaual goodness and cheapness elsewhere. '
kIb,t635s637 SMITHFIELD ST. 635S637 k
TERMS:
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REDIT
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