r
THE PlTTSBUliGr DISPATCH, SUNDAY. MARCH - 20, 189a
18
BOTH fflJD FUR.
Adipose Has Only Few Terrors for
the Woman Who Knows the
Theory of Dress.
HOW THE ACTRESSES HATTAGE IT.
Orer-Plnmpness May Be Kedncedto That
Which Jnst Fills the Eye by At
tention to Lines.
DISNITI EMTH1SIZED BT A COXB
Costmcs lor the rieshy That Will Kike Thtm Be
Joice in Their Defects.
fWRITTEK rOE TITE DIKFJLTCH.1
S T O N-ISHLNGLY
r tbin and marvelous
! y proportioned wo
men oi the xashion
;V plates give many a
woman her only
Idea of the style. To
loot on these plates
and see no way of
attaining to this ap
pearance is to the
normally bnilt wo
man a sufficiently
discouraging mat
ter, but what depths
ot despair does the
fight of them cause to her who is over stout!
If style can be produced only with a bust
of 40 and a waist of 20, a skirt length of
from 50 to 60 inches, and a neck elongated
by at least four extra vertebrae, who shall
attain to it? Verily, if this is style it is
HOW FATB XXLTJAX
hard to be stylish. It were a far easier
problem to be good or to be beautiful.
Slenderness is the fashion book's ideal,
but is it in reality necessary to style?
This is what the stout woman would like to
know.
Be reassured dear stout lady. These plates
are the creation of the pattern maker's
warped fancy. He may. Heaven knows,
think it impolite to have viscera; perhaps,
pior fellow, he has little use for a stomach;
he may have reasons of utility also, which
there is not here space to discuss. The
women you should model after do not look
like these plates. If yon should by chance,
a happened to me once, meet a woman who
did reemble them, you would be surprised
at the disgust that would come to you. An
animated fashion plate is a disagreeable
sight.
Tlesh Is a Forjrivxble Defect.
The proper model is the form of the nor
mal woman, neither stout nor thin, bnt
with proportions whose ideal is found in
TWO SIXTEENTH CESTUKT
the Greek Venus. The lanky woman is as
far from this ideal as she is who is broad.
Moreover her defect is less agreeable, less
comfortable with beauty. And right now,
Miss and Mrs. Stout, is a grain of comfort
for von. "Walker, in his "Analysis of
Beauty, "reminds us that if too great breadth
la inelegant, too great height is unfeminine,
and so pronounces it a greater misfortune
for a woman to be over tall than over
broad. Over stoutness is an excess of the
nutritive system, and the nntritive type of
beautv has a softness and voluptuousness
peculiarly feminine, and so is the most for
givable of defects.
How shall the stout woman dress to make
her form appear normal?
Let us tee how the actresses do it. A
large proportion of actresses are stont;
their mode of life tends to make them so,
and yet to be beautiful is part of their pro
fession. How does their dress conceal
their size and produce the efiect of normal
proportions?
Onlj a3Iatter of Line.
The leading stage dressmaker of Sew
York lays down the rules as follows: Hori-
IIFlIb
EVJESH h MTJi A
WSKIaS&K
MMSiH' y J 'tb.
zontal lines shorten and vertical ones give
lengths therefore add to and emphasize the
vertical lines and omit or conceal those that
run round. The sown should fit smoothly
and the waist have many seams. The sfcirt
should be very long In front and have no
border, for thus its ending is indefinite and
the eye will not fix its exaot limits. The
skirt should be as wide as fashion permits
at the bottom, so that the profile line will
grow gradually from the waist down. It is
a mistake to draw the skirt tightly round
the front. "When the woman is very stout
a few gathers are made on either side the
front along the waist band, but these are
not visible belpw the waist. Kg. 1
shows the principles in a general way.
The large stomach is the most inelegant
defect at the stout woman. This explains
the temptation corset laces offer, though
lacing does not reduce the fat. It presses
it above and below where, of the two, it is
less objectionable. The most strenuous ef
forts of dress are directed toward the dis
guise of the large stomach. It is for this
that the long pointed basque is preserved
among the fashions, though round waists
are the popular vogue.
How to Deceive the Eye.
Belted waists, sav the dressmakers, are
not for the stout, though Emma Schirmer
Mapleson manages, by the device of an
overshadowing shoulder ruffle, to wear with
much grace one similar to that at Fig. 2.
For this reason the width of the shoulder is
exaggerated bylines running thence down to
the point of the basque, thus deceiving the
eye as to the apparent size ot the stomach.
The skillful modiste emphasizes rather than
enlarges the width of the shoulder, and the
sleeves are n fact made less full at the top
than for thin persons. Yokes give apparent
width to the shoulders, and are becoming to
the stout.
Lines carried up on the shoulders add to
the apparent height of the figure, and. the
stout can therefore wear the flange collars
now in vogue, that stand up around the
shoulders sometimes three deep; also the
high collar that stands open in front and
rolls away from the face, and all shoulder
ornaments, including the popular ribbons
which pass round the armhole and are tied
upon the shoulders. In materials she must
confine herself to plain surface and vertical
stripes, but with a mingling of these
two splendid effects may be obtained.
Among tne society devotees oi .new iorit
COSCEVLS HER FLESH.
are many who have to solve the stout
woman's dress problem, pf these a wealthy
widow, not young, was recently married.
The wedding garment was of mauve velvet
with Venetian lace. It had the back cut in
Princess form, with a train, and the front
with a Louis XV. coat. This is a very good
model. Coat pieces are often sewed on the
back, on the front, of pointed basque, but
they can hardly be continued clear round
without increasing the size.
Another excellent illustration of the
dressmaker's ideal is found in the gowns of
Lillian Russell. Lillian is unquestionably
stout, and her dress is directed, as far as
stage exigencies allow, toward concealing
the fact.
The Delsartians have a word to say as to
stoutness which may be found helpful.
Here it is: The large stomach is in most
cases the result of not' knowing how to
stand. The weight should rest on the balls
of the feet, not on the heels. This throws
forward the chest instead of the abdomen,
and gives an elegant carriage. The nor
mal woman does not need a corset, bnt the
over-stout one may require a support for
the bust, but tight lacing makes her short
OOWJTS FOE HEAVT WOMEN.
breathed and weakens her muscles. She
should take exercise to strengthen the
abdominal muscles and reduce the fat.
The Accordion-Plaited Skirts.
The dressmaker insists that the stout
woman must have skirts smoothly gored.
This is because, according to prevailing
fashion, if full the fullness would have to
be massed round the hip-, into a binding,
while the outline round the bottom is kept
more or less close. But the fact, neverthe
less, remains that plaited garments give
vertical lines, and if properly managed
b.-1.3 Lll. AMMdAf vlMit eAAn 4 naiti avaW
WUU1U UCLlcr UUUVC1 bwuhiwo uu gv'icu
ones. Never, to my knowledge, has Miss
Bussell approached so near to looking
majestic as when she donned an accordion
plaited skirt and accordion-plaited wing
sleeves.
A costume of the sixteenth century shown
at Fig. 5 illustrates this point and also fur
nishes a suggestion for a stout woman's
dressing gown.
The plaits begin on the shoulders and fall
with an outward sweep to the foot, entirely
concealing oversize. In another dress of
the same period, given beside it will be
found another good suggestion. It hu the
THE TABLE, THE BOUDOIR, HOI DECORATIONS
sleeve and a vertical section under It ex
tending to the feet, and a triangular piece
set in the front, all of a darker 'and more
precious material than the rest of the gar
ment. This beautiful device cuts the width
and narrows the figure. .-
Heightening the Moral Effect. -.
Dignity can be given to the short woman
bv emphasizing the median line of the
The Principle Exemplified.
figure. Thus, place a comb in the hair not
at one side but directly above the middle of
the forehead. This fact is illustrated by a
foulard gown. It is of changeable surah
broken by white dot clusters with trimmings
of plain surab. The plain silk is gathered
in a straight line down the front, and a sash
of it borders the pointed waist, is tied in
front, and falls thence to the feet, weighted
with heavy fringe. A Bussian blouse effect
is given by a slashed bloused skirt added to
the waist.
Bernhardt in the chapel scene of her
"Joan of Arc" gives a beautiful instance flf
the use of the median line to heighten moral
efiect. When she enters the chapel Her
word hangs diagonally at her side, but
after the impressive consecration of herself,
and she turns again to the audience her
scabbard has been moved ronnd exactly in
front and the sword, with its cross handle,
now marks upon her armor a vertical line.
This subtle touch adds greatly to the sol
emnity of her appearance.
The princesse gown has much favor for
the stout, as all its lines are vertical. It is
Fig: r3
A Wealthy Widow's Plan.
made single or donble breasted, or is fast
ened invisibly under the arm, and its only
trimming is a border down the vertical edge.
Sometimes the back of the skirt is cut and
box-plaited on, and sometimes, as said
above, the back is intact and a coat effect is
given to the front. When the front is
double dreasted and bordered, an extra
vertical line of trimming may extend from
the waist line on the same side, to the foot.
It should begin at a dart But if a fitted
princesse is tolerated by fashion for woolen
and silk, it is wholly unsuited to materials
that wash. Ada Bache-Cone.
TEE LATEST 15 FANCY W0KK.
Moldavian Is the Samo for It and It Has a
Great Fnture.
The very latest and the newest of all new
things is the Moldavian work, of which a
specimen design is given here. It comes to
us from Brussels, and is snre to grow in
favor as it becomes known. The peculiarity
of the Moldavian work is its
combination of colors and its geo
metrical forms. The designs, which
Section of Design or Pillow.
may be as varied as kaleidoscopic forms,
are all composed of triangles, squares,
oblongs, eta, to be embodied in rich red,
yellow and blue; in the form and the color
depends the success of the work.
To make a square like the one suggested
in the illustration, which may be used as a
cushion cover or a scarf end, purchase a
sufficient, quantity of fine white linen
canvas or Morris cotton. Draw upon this
foundation the outline of the design, then,
with heavy twisted silk, or tne best of knit
ting silk, work the figures as follows:
Use the silks as the section directs, each
initial of which represents a color. That
$WKymrtiWLWRmirihg
JfTii, , , 'in tr,a.-ii!rr-
MaMalSej
(JteiKVWW.:x.fil
A. Doylie in Moldavian Work.
is, red to fill the figures marked with "R,"
vellow those indicated- by "Y," and blue
theportions marked with "B."
The stitches are to be taken, as the tiny
cross lines of the square, make plain, each
line being made to represent a single
stitch; that is, the silk in every jnstancs
made to pass over the figure from main line
to main line until it becomes a solid mass of
color.
The work is simplicity itself, and, can be
done with great rapidity, yet it is strikingly
effective and gives a result similar to that
teen in the best Oriental embroideries,
5
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fifw
M - ill
t III aU
5 - fr- vL-UIAJl -HJ Jl 173
MADAME LA PRESIDENTS
Gentle Grace With Which She Helens as
Queen of the French Court Romance
of Her Marriage How She Spends Her
Money Her Education.
(coRjucsroNDKTcx or rrra msrATcn.i
Paeis, March 1L Daughter of the distin
guished politician and economist, Dupoint
Whlte, Madame Carnot spent most of her
youth at Fontainebleau, under the shadow
of the beautiful chateau. The modest little
villa where she lived is pointed out by the
townspeople, many of whom can still re
member the beautiful Madame White and
her two pretty young daughters, who were
popularly supposed to be as learned as pro
fessors, for their father had insisted on his
children being taught Latin and Greek in
addition to their other studies. It was dur
ing the brilliant closing days of, the Second
Empire, Fontainebleau as the Empress
Eugenie's favorite country palace, and each
summer saw Napoleon IIL's court estab
lished in the chateau, transformed for the
time being into the very dwelling of light
hearted coquetry and folly. But the Du-
point-Whites spent their sober home life
in their quiet villa, refusing all invitations
to the chateau fetes and dances.
According to French notions, the future
presidente did not marry early, she was two
and twenty when she became the wife of the
well-known senator and writer, Hypolyti
Carnot.
Element of Bomance In the Marriage.
The marriage of Mademoiselle Dupoint
"White and the then youthful civil engineer,
Sadi Carnot, was quite a romance. The
future president was a shy, silent young
man seldom if ever opening his lips in the
presence of his distinguished senator father,
1
!S-
Madame Carnot.
a man who concealed a warm heart under a
cold, austere exterior the active, bright
and singularly well educated girl who is now
madame la presidente was a great favorite
with the old gentleman who delighted in her
fresh, lively conversation and fearless
demeanor. With quick sympathy she
divined the state of affairs existing between
the reserved father and son and set herself
to bring them closer together, and while
doing so learned to take herself an interest
in what concerned more especially the son.
She was extremely pretty and had in her
own circle a reputation for learning and
Sevigne wit, thns everyone, was surprised
when the engagement was announced, the
more so that as Madame White had been
one of the beauties of the court ot Louis
Philippe it had always been thought that
Mademoiselle Dupoint-White would make
an aristocratic marriage to some member oi
the old French nobility.
It is not generally known that the grand
father Carnot, nicknamed "The Organizer
of Victory," was made a Count bv Napoleon
I, bnt his son and grandson neither of them
ever cared to bear the title, and it was
greatly to Madame Sadi Carnot's credit that
she did not'ask her husband to .make her
Madame la Countesse, the more so that she
passed her youth in a circle where a title
countedfor a great deal, and that many of
her own young girl friends belonged to the
exclusive Faubourg.
She Is a Master of English.
The keynote of Madame Carnot's nature
and existence is her extreme love and
loyalty to her husband. Although she does
not often talk of him to strangers, his per
sonality is ever present to her mind and
ru'es her smallest actions. Her perfect
knowledge of English made her assistance
of the greatest value to Monsieur Carnot
when he was engaged in translating Stuart
Mills' great work on the revolution ot 1818,
and even now she makes a point of reading
Ex-Emprett Eugenie.
and marking all the London daily pipers
before her husband has had time to glance
over them.
Those who assisted at tlie deliberations
which followed President Grevy's downfall
are aware how little either Sadi Carnot or
his wife sought the great distinction offered
to them. Few, who only see Madame
Carnot on gala occasions, realize what a
heavy responsibility is here, or what an
active share of Presidental duties falls on
her graceful shoulders. The President is
given an income of about $200,000 on which
to keep up his dignity. Madame Carnot
has the spending of nearly the whole of this
sum, for she keeps the accounts, pays the
trades-people and arranges what donations
are to be given to charity.
The President of the French Bepublic is
lodged, rent free, at the Elysee, and has all
the vegetables, fruit and game he needs lor
his table from the kitchen gardens and
freenhouses of Versailles and Fontaine
lean. Oak logsand oiI,gas and electricity
are also supplied. All the house linen is
washed free of cost, and the keep of three
horses is allowed, but Madame Carnot has
to supplement all this with the aid of Gen
eral Brugers, who may $e, styled the gen
eral controller of the household.
Bontlne of a Day at the Elysee.
The day of the President's wife com
mences at. 8 o'clock, when her conrrier is
brought to her dressing room. Hundreds of
letters find their way addressed to Madame
la Presidente from all parts of Franeejsolio
iting help, relief and protection, in one
form or another; whenever it is possible the
cases are investigated, and help afforded to
the deserving, poor. Following the habit oC
every practical French woman, Mme. Car
Tjot sees her cook every day ana draws np
the menu herself with a aue regard to wnat
is in season; primenrs play no part in her I
Wmkgw
fc
household management, simple, well cooked
food and a lack of elaborate dishes make a
meal at the Elysee a pleasant, wholesome
function to those royalties passing through
Paris who are used to fatiguing, highly
spiced banquets from their Parisian hosts.
Dejeuner tnkes place at 12 o'clock and is
followed in summer by coffee served in the
garden. When in Paris Madame Cunnisset
Carnot, the President's only daughter, is
often present at this meal with one of her
little children. Madame Carnot is a de
voted mother and "coached" her two soldier
sons when they were studying for the en
trance examination to St. Cyr, the great
French military college.
An official visit to some orphanage, hos
pital, girls' sohool or exhibition fills up
nearly every afternoon. Madame Carnot is
very fond of children and takes genuine
President Carnot.
interest in all that concerns them. The
Paris creches have always had her warm
support and like many other French ladies
she makes with her own hands throughout
the year many little flannel and linen gar
ments to be distributed at Christmas to a
number of special proteges recommended
by the Sisters of Charity.
Hon Madame Carnot Eecelves,
When the President and Presidente are
invited out to' dinner they are, by a polite
fiction, master and mistress of the house
for the time being, but the President rarely,
if ever, dines out, save at one of the foreign
embassies; on the other hand, he is ex
pected to entertain largely and a dinner
party is the rule every vening at the
Elysee. When receiving her guests Madame
Carnot stands by her husband's side shak
ing hands with them and saying to
each some thoughtful, agreeable word of
recognition and welcome. Before a state
ball all the decorations are personally
superintended by the mistress of the house
or her daughter. Ivy and water lilies are
Madame la Presidente s favorite garnitures,
and the Elysee buffet and tiny supper tables
are strewn wherever it is possible with the
beautiful nunephars sent up from the lake
at Fontainebleau for the occasion.
Although obliged to dress up to the posi
tion, avoidingboth extravagances and dowdi
ness, for either extreme would produce a
bad impressioa on King Mob, Madame la
Presidente takes as much trouble -and
thought over her toilet as any little bour
geoise. Her favorite combination is white
silk and gold for evening wear, and soft,
deep purple velvet when she is receiving
callers or entertaining distinguished for
eigners at luncheon. Occasionally a special
order is dispatched to Lyons and a court
brocade train ormantle woven in marvelous
colors, and of which the design is afterward
destroyed, is worn by Madame Carnot at
some state function, but as a rule both the
President and his wife deal exclusively with
Parisian tradesmen, and every bill is settled
the day that the goods are sent in. Madame
Carnot's toilet costs her almost 30,000 francs
per annnm, a twentieth part of her husband's
official income. '
Besting at Fontainebleau.
Although it has been once 'or twice sug
gested that the President and his suite
should go to Versailles for the summer
months, Madame Carnot always persuades
her husband to return to Fonta'inebleau, for
she is passionately fond of the little town
standing on the edge of the far-famed forest
where her early years were spent Fon
tainebleau was built for Francois I, the
tallest king who ever reigned over France,
and his height was the unit of measurement
which architects took in pitching ceilings
and cross-beams of the doors. When at
Fontainebleau the members of the Presi
dental court lead the 'simplest of lives,
walking and driving in the forest, while
the good ladihs of the town bring their
daughters to early mass to the beautiful
chapel of Fontainebleau in order to see
Madame la Presidente kneeling on the velvet
prie dieu, where the beautiful Empress
Eugenie performed her devotions some 20
odd years ago. ,
People are apt to hint that M. and Mad
ame Carnot greatly exceed their official in
come, but then those worthies ao not realize
what a good manager and accountant the
President possesses in his wife. ...Every sou
spent is put down by her every day, and
vthile at Fontainebleau much less is spent
than at the Elysee, and Madame Carftot has
the power given to so many French women
of making a sou go as iar as a franc in ap
pearance and effect
No one would take Madame la Presidente
to be a grandmother. Her hair, neatly
parted in bands and coiled up over a Span
ish comb, is glossy brown in tint. Although
rather below than above the average height,
she has great personal dignity of bearing,
and her face breaks readily into smiles, es
pecially when she is with young people or
queening it atsome popular fete on her hus
band's arm.
Mabie Adelaide Beixoc.
A TABLE FOB SILVE2
Is the latest Fad of Those Who Have Jtaj
thinc to Fat on It.
One of the most charming whims of the
season is the "silver table." It has a place
of honor in the drawing room. The table
itself is low, rather broad, has a light rail
ing of darkish wood about its top and is
covered with dark red plush. It holds
everything in silver, odd, or quaint, or
historic, or unusual, upon which my lady
can lay her hands and of course takes rank
in her affection very much according to the
rarity, the pictaresqueness or the interest
of the collection it displays.
Clasps, girdles, sword hilts, buckles, but
tons, objects of art, souvenirspoons from all
sorts of unheard of places, all sorts of spoons
and cups and bottles from which historic
folks have drank, odd coins, broken shill
ings, bangles from India and from Alaska,
silver lace, boxes, brushes, bottles, silver
dagger sheaths, 'filagree caskets, thimbles
with a historv. besides all the thousand
elegant trifles of the jeweler's shelf, furnish.
iortn wis -newest tning in tames.
EGYPTIANS' BOILED WAXES.
An Ancient Manuscript Showing It Is Not a
Kewldoa at All.
It is taken for granted that the idea of
boiling water before using it as a beverage
is of relatively recent date. A manuscript,
however, has just been discoi ered in the
Khedive's library at Cairo which corrects
this false impression. This manuscript
treats of hygiene in Egypt, and is the work
of a celebrated Arabian physician, Ebn-Badouan-el-Maszy.
It bears the date of the
year 460 of the hegira (1068).
In this manuscript it is said "that the
best method of setting water free from prin
ciples injurions to health consists in first
submitting it to the action of heat by boil
ing it. then exposing it to the coolness of
the night air, decanting it, boiling it a sec
ond time, clarifying it by mingling chalk
with it, and finally filtering it through a
porous jar exposed to the night air."
AND HYGIENE.
FINE LINES' IN MANTELS.
Those With an Eye to the Beautiful Ho Not
Bay the Beady-Made Articles Why Old
Mantels 'Pleases Good Workmanship
an Essential.
JWHI'lTJOr TOB THE DISPATCH. 1
"Who buys these things?" was asked of a
furniture manufacturer by the writer, some
time ago, as he looked with Gomewhat un
pleasant feelings on a line of stock mantels,
made up, as the saying goes, "for the
trade." Bad was no name for them. They
looked as if they had been seized, with an
epidemic of jig-sawed brackets 'and arches
and badly proportioned colonnettes, and the
carving forcibly impressed me that it had
originally been mud, which, under a so
called artistic impulse, had run out into
patterns and solidified,
"Oh, they sell, ".replied the dealer. "The
builders put them into flats and cheap
houses. The quiet things don't take so
well," he added, apologetically.
This is about the state of affairs the house
owner usually meets with when he comes to
select his mantels, and quiet, tasteful de
signs arecomparatively rare. Of course if
the house is an expensive one the mantels
are designed with the "trim" by the archi
tect, with more or less' success, as the case
may be, but there are thousands of cases
in which the mantels are bought like pieces
of movable furniture, and there should
be a demand and supply of well designed
work for people with refined taste to select
from.
The Designs Must Fill the .Eye.
It should be remembered in designing
and selecting mantels, too, that they are to
be seen at short range, and that good pro
portions and delicacy are qualities that
wear better in the long run than elaboration
and profuse ornaments: Good carving is
expensive, as it requires a highly trained
class of labor. If there is much real carv
ing in cheap work it is very sure to be bad.
Imitation carving, designed on classical
models, is now made extensively from a
putty composition, pressed with molds while
soft, and afterwards glued on when required.
These designs are generally good, as the
patterns used have been refilled and studied
ever since classical architecture has been in
existence. They may be had in wreaths.
festoons, ornamental moldings, etc., but all
have the limitation ot being applicable only
A DEOTO BOOM
to work that is to be painted. In mantels
finished in the natural wood the safer course
is to depend on harmonious combinations of
panels, beaded work or turned moldings,
and on a handsome material. As a general
rule, choose the simpler things and look to
the color and proportions, rather than to
the elaboration. There has lately been a
rage for old furniture. What is the reason?
Because it is old? Because it is rare? Not
primarily, though this may have added
somewhat to its popularity.
Good Workmanship In Old Goods.
The secret of its success is that it pos
sesses good workmanship, careful design
and proportion and a handsome material,
often finely-grained mahoeony. The same"
is true of the colonial mantels, which have
furnished the keynote for much of our best
designed work at the present dav. The
component parts which go to make np a
mantel design are the facing of tile or
brick, the frame enclosing it, the shelf and
its supports and the top or over mantel.
We may elaborate and make either of these
features interesting and attractive as we
please.
The facing gives a fine opportunity for
color. Hundreds of delicate shades ot tile
are in the market and the new shades of
buff, old gold, gray and mottled bricks may
be used. White in cheaper grades of work
is pleasing and effective. Good results are
often obtained by facing up the whole front
and possibly the sides ot the fire-place with
one of these materials, and supporting the
shelf and top above on brackets or mould
ings, thus making a special feature out of
the color of the material. Unless a special
feature is made of the facing the ordinary
proportion of the tile work is from 6 inches
to 12 inches on each side to 16 inches above
the fire opening. As much as this is desir
able to avoid the varnish charring from the
heat. ,
Artistic TJne and Fine Proportions.
In framing-in the tile work a host of
schemes present themselves, without resort
ing to expensive elaboration. We may en
close the tiled opening with varied frame
works of panels; we may support the shelf
on delicately beaded pilasters or turned
'A L-
t?-e
Some Tasteful Treatment!.
balusters, or long gracefully earved brackets;
and in none of these do we call for more
than the-skill of the ordinary mechanic.
The good effect will resnlt from the care
vith whiVh the Tirnnnrtions are studied.
Artistic lines and fine proportions are worth
any amount ot elaboration.
Fig. 1 and Fig. 2 suggest tasteful treat
ments. Fig. 3 shows the side of the
bracket support of shelf In Fig 2. Figs. 4
and 5 show profiles of shelves.
The nlan of cnttintr grooves in the top of
the shelf to prevent a photograph or plaque (
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A Thief and
The manufacturer who will put up injurious fla
voring extracts. and label them of perfect purity
and extra fine quality, is a thief and a scoundrel.
To be safe confine yourself to the use of such
flavors as your experience and judgment tell you
are of the purest quality. Dr. Price's Delicious
Flavoring Extracts, Vanilla, Lemon, Orange, etc., are
just what they are represented to be. If not the
cheapest they are the best, and no puddings, cakes,
creams or other table delicacies are spoiled by
their use.
from slipping is a convenient one and not
often thought of, and no special instruc
tions are given. As to the top, or over
mantel, it Is often a question whether it is
worth the additional expense, unless a good
deal ot importance in that feature is desired,
as in a parlor mantel where bric-a-brac may
be displayed, or in a dining room mantel,
when place is desired for rare and beautiful
pieces of china. The space above the shelf
is often more useful, especially in bedrooms
and libraries, for a fine painting or mirror,
and the panel work composing the top is
liable to be a little suggestive of the head
board of a bedstead, unless carried around
the sides of the chimney so.as to completely
encase it, which of course adds considerably
to the expense.
Getting on Without Carrins.
In the ornamentation of the' constructive
features of a mantel, if we lay aside the
question of carving, there are one or two
inexpensive devices which may be resorted
to the pntty applied ornament mentioned
above for painted woods and mouldings
turned from natural wood in various
patterns of beading. These are manufactured
in all sizes and shapes, and from various
woods, and may be used effectively planted
in the flutings of pilasters, along the mould-
infrm tf tio tnlf ap a,rtnnil tTia nqnali Hna
I or two good patterns are shown in Fig. 6.
OVER-MANTEL.
They give a series of points of high light
and shadow, which enrich the work nearly
as much as 'carving, without a great ex
pense. Care should be employed in using
them, however, on panels. It they are
glued directly to the panel itself, the shrink
age of the wood across the grain of the
panel is liable to throw off the mouldings
which run at right angles to it. These
mouldings, however, may be safely glued to
the heavier moulding outside.
As in all other items of finishing a house,
better effects and more harmonious ones arc
secured if the mantels and fireplaces are
planned and arranged for with the design
of the house.
In altering old houses it is wise to think
twice before deciding to pull out old work
to make room for new. JIany of the older
A Library Jfantd.
houses have exquisite colonial mantels
which it is vandalism to move. The dealers
in second-hand material have often made
handsome profits in buviog such work chean
and selling it to those who were well enough
posted to appreciate its value. A dining
room' mantel recently described as an old
'fashioned marble thing proved to be a beau
tiful piece of red Lisbon marble, quiet and
respectable in design and lovely in color.
The advice that he had a handsome thing
and bad better let it remain astonished him
greatly. He had never looked at it from
the point of view of color, and is now much
pleased with it. All of which goes to show
that it is not always well to go searching
after some new thing. Beauty is not made
by fashion though people's ideas of it some
times are.
EDUCATED Y0UN6 W0HEN.
They Have Mo Right to Refuse Housework
That It Retards Cultivating the Mind
Is Nonsense A Matter of Only and
Good Breeding;
IWJUTTJLN FOB THE DISPATCH.
A young girl finishes her school life and
comes back into the family again. Suppose
she has neither the taste nor the ability to
take np any work outside her home. Sup
pose, however, that' she is bright, intelli
gent, fond of books and musio and pictures.
Suppose, last of all, that the family income
is not large and that there is bnt one or at
the most two servants in the house.
Now, the question naturally (irises, what
shall be the attitude of this young, un
trained, bnt intelligent mind toward the
homely details of housework? Shall she
take them, or let them alone is housework
worthy of the best effort, 'worthy of the I
1' I '"'
a Scoundrel.
time and thought of an ducated and clever
young women? Let us see. "If only
housework were- not so distressing in its
details," sighs the" young woman, "or if I
only liked it better! Bnt as it is, it doesn't
seem worth my while. I hate brooms, and
pots, and kettles, and my fingers crawl at
the thought of a dish cloth and besides, it
seems to me that I ought to put my time to
better use, that I ought to be improving my
mind."
Indictments Discussed Seriatim.
So here is her indictment against house
work. First, that It is unpleasant. So it
is: it is very unpleasant. To deny that
would be a waste of time to say nothing of
its being nonsense. But have you never
stopped to consider that the details of most
work are unpleasant? The details of a
i physician's work are unpleasant in the ex
treme, line lawyer s lite is a hard grind
after petty facts; the teacher gets little fun
out of disciplining youngsters and drilling
at the third person singular of the German
verb, until the class nicknames her "The
Third Person Singular." Nobody's life is
fun, young woman. If you're taking your
stand on that foot, just shift over to the
other. Living is pretty serious business,
and all we've got to do 13 to make the best
of it And the details of living are sure to
be undignified and uninteresting.
The second indictment that this young
woman draws up is that she doesn't like it.
Of course she doesn't. What woman does?
Suppose you don't like them? It isn't
likely that your mother likes them. But
she has done them for yeara and is still
doing them, because there's no one else.
Do them, and do them well and heartily,
but don't insist upon liking them. To like
the results of them is all that you will find
necessary. A happy atmosphere in the
home, more comfort for all the familv,anew
appreciation of your own dignity and worth
in the family these are some of the ends.
And these should keep you working, be
cause, indeed, they are worth having. There
is dignity, but it is in you not in your
wort No work is dignified, except the
worker makes it so, and the dignity in the
worker comes from a realization of the
moral qualities that go into work.
The Coming Estimate of Work.
There are many wise and helpful people
in the world who sincerely believe that we
are going to have within the next few gen
erations a new estimate ot the worth of
work an estimate based not upon the
amonnt of money a piece of work is worth,
not upon the seeming importance it bears to
the world, bat upon the conscientious spirit
which goes into the work. When, for ex
ample, we shall honor the man and the ser
vice of him who lavs a stone wall jnst as
well as a stone wall can lie laid, quite as
much as we shall honor the man who stands
at the head of a nation or leads armies to
victory.
If that day ever comes, it will be the d3y
in which housework and the houseworker
will have their innings. Because there is
no work in all the world that has such a
deep spiritual significance, such a bearing
upon the welfaring of the world. There is
no question that gdod housekeeping will
not help to settle. How can yon expect a
man to entertain sane opinions on matter!
.that deal with women's welfare when he
"puts contempt for her into his month with
everv bit of unwholesome, sodden bread
.that'he eats?
And so, you see, we come to the last in
dictment which yon draw up that it in"t
worth your while that you ought to be "im
proving your mind." Sly dear youn;
woman, don't get any such inflitcd idea a.
these into your head. If yon don't find
plenty of chancei for mind-imnrovem?nt in
the exigencies and emergeiic'e of how
work, you won't find theia ia books or ia
music, or in painting.
Plenty ofMontal Op-nrtnn!l"-
Tou'll get more chemistry in one diy's
thoughtful prowling about the cooking
stove than you are l-kclyto have got ont
of school book. You'll Cud more" phyic
in the plumber's pipe than yon d'd i-i lha
big book you carrie-lin to c'as so JaithWlIy
every day. You'll find l.uman ca-nr? nora
intefesting and mora natural in yourkitchen
than in your noveJ. Don't orry abmt
yourmind. It can take care of i;se!f? snd
will grow without anxious feeding, if it's
any kind of mind at all-
And suppoe yon take into consideration
your duty to somebody elsj beside joar
self. That count, becaus there roplly is
such an an old-tasbion ;d thing in the world,
forall this new-fashioned thonght of onr,
as our duty to others. The family income
is small, the service is small, and there is
plenty ot work for yonng, strong arm to do.
Then shame be unto your young, strong
self if yon take no share in it; if yon keep
laying the burden of your living on the
shoulders of vour tired, willing mother.
And if the education which you've been
years in getting has done anything for
vou. let it show in ability to make the .
tard way of wort smoother and easier in 2
an educated young woman. Do you know
that nearly all the cultivated, keen, think
ing women of this country are famous hoay
keepers and pride themselves a deal mors
on their bread than they do on their brains?
Helex Wattebsmt.
FINE WALL
PAPERS
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