life3ED
y $ Jrffff'
m ANCIENT ORDER
"Which Has Gained a Foothold in
America to the Great Benefit
of Systematic Charity.
TES FROTESTAKT SISTERS WORK.
Characteristics of lh: Philadelphia Mcther
Boate and Other Centen
urs
of ictiritj.
EISTOKT OF 1 KiPID DEYILOFHEUT.
sjnalifleatioiis of Candidates, Their EnlM of Ccnflnct
mi Cottnn-j.
pnUTTXX roK Tin rispATcat
NE of the noteworthy
features of the wom
an's century is the re
vival in several Pro
testant denominations
of the ancient Order
of Deaconesses. The
Protestant deaconess
works in similar fields
and after similar ways with her Catholic
sister; but takes upon herself no vows of
celibacy, and is in no sense a recluse or a
nun. She differs, on the other hand, from
the trained nurse or professional teacher in
that she does out of love and from religions
motives what they do for hire or for per
sonal advancement. Deriving her support,
usually, from the church in connection with
which her work is done, she is thereby re
lieved from all worldly care and rolicitude,
.and free to devote her time and energies to
her chosen vocation.
The Lutheran Church has taken the lead
In this revival of woman's early work in the
congregation, and Kaiseswerth, Germany,
is the principal scat of the order. Thence it
has extended to other countries and among
other denominations notably the Episco
palian (which also has the more rigidly or
ganizd Sisterhood of St. John), the
Methodist, Presbyterian and even the Bap
tist. Philadelphia was one of the first
American cities to welcome this Sisterhood,
and the Mary J. Drexel Home and Phila
delphia Mothcrhouse of Deaconesses is the
first and probably the finest institution of
lis kind on the 'Western Continent
The Drrxel Institution or Philadelphia.
This home is an offshoot of the German
Hospital and was erected in 1SG6 by John
D. Lankenau, son-in-law of the late F. M.
Drexel, in memory of his deceased wife,
Mary Johanna, who died in 1873. Beneath
the roof of this beautiful building are
gathered under one management four differ
ent institutions a Home for the Ajred, for
which the building was originally designed,
the Motherliouse of Deaconesses, a school
for cirls and a children's hospital.
Ol the older probationers and Auxiliary
bisters two or three occupy one room, w hue
those who have recently entered the house
are placed in two dormitories on the second
and third floors, each of which accommodates
nine. On the second floor are the sewing
room and the sitting room of the Sisters,
the latter containing a fine piano. There
are 35 Sisters here in all, comprising 15
deaconesses, 14 help-Sisters and six pro
bationers, nearly all of German birth or
arentage and members of the .Evangelical
utheran Church. Their garb is a neat,
Drercl Home and JTotherhmise.
close-fitting dress of slate blue cotton, man
ufactured in Germany and very durable,
dark apron, white collar and the Kaisers
werth cap which is the distinctive feature
of the uniform. The dress of the Sister
Superior is black and she wears in addition
a black cape reaching to the elbows. The
institution, which was incorporated in De
cember, 18S7, is iu the hands of a close cor
poration of nine members, who constitute
the Board of Directors, four of whom, be
sides the rector, must be clergymen belong
ing to the ministerium of Pennsylvania.
The Candidates for Admission.
Only Lutheran women widows without
children or unmarried women between the
ages of 18 and 40, of unblemished reputa
tion aud good health, are received as candi
dates. Prior to admission on trial, every
candidate must forward to the rector a cer
tificate of baptism, the written consent of
parents or guardians, certificate of pastor
as to her Christian character, physician's
certificate of health, testimony from the
family in which she mav have been" em
ployed and a short sketch of her life written
Dy herself. Among the probationers, if ac
ceptable, she remains at least a year, wears
the appointed dress furnished by the insti
tute and receives practical and theoretical
instruction. Trom the category of proba
tioners the approed pass into that of help
or sub-Sisters, in wnich they remain for
two or three years when they are oruained
deaconesses with imposition of hands ac
cording to the form used in Kaiseriswertb.
No ovs arc taken nor any salaries paid.
Every Sister enjoys a beautiful and perma
nent home, receives sufficient pocket money
and afterordination is entitled to the privacy
of her own bedroom. She is permitted to
leave the establishment once a year for rest
or recreation, and in time of sickness as
well of ase is tenderly cared for in the
mothcrhouse.
The Three Other Features.
The old people's home under the care of
thee Sisters is in the west w ing of the
building. Membership is limited to Ger
man residents of Philadelphia who are mem
bers of some Protestant confession, over 60
Tears of age and incapable of self-support
There are 30 inmates, most of whom are
women. They have their own dining room
on the second floor, while on the third floor,
Is a pleasant smoking room for the old gen
tlemen, some eight or nine in number.
The school for girls which was opened
last year is a branch of the Deaconess Insti
tute, its object being to train and educate
Toung girls, and especially the daughters of
Lutheran clergymen, in the .work of the
ftmale diaconate, and so gain some of thera
for the calling. Pupils are admitted at the
age of 10 vears. There are 37.at present in
the school, which has accommodations for
CO and is under the immediate control of
the rector, the Kev. A. Cordcs, of Hamburg.
United States Consul Charles H. Meyer is
chairman of the School Committee.
The Children's Hospital occupies the
first floor of the weet wing, with accom
modations for betn een 50 and CO children.
Two hundred and thirty-two patients were
received during the past year, 40 being ac
cident cases, while in the Children's Dis
pensary adjoining 1,324 general and 221
special cases were treated. m -
The German Hospital is " oldest build
ing on the institute grounds and was the
first and is still the principal field of the
deaconess' work in Philadelphia. It was
originally intended lor German immigrants,
many of whom reached this port in a very
destitute condition. In 1831 the co-operation
of the church was secured by a change
In the charter, aud the way was opened for
the Introduction of deaconesses from Ger
many, where they had already proved their
Talue and efficiency in similar work.
An Importation of Sisters.
After several ineffectual attempts had
been made to induce Kaiserswerth or some
other large Motherhouse in Germany to
give up a few Sisters to the American work,
a. correspondence was opened through Con
sul Meyer with a small community at Iser
lohn, which resulted in bringing the
Superior and six Sisters over here in the
spring of 1884. These pioneers in thedea
coness work in Philadelphia were Sister
Superior Marie Krueger and Sisters Fried
eriko Wurzler, AVilhelniine Dittmann,
Marianne Kractzer, Magdlaine Yon
Bracht, Alma Kohmann and Pauline
Loeschmann.
The hospital has beds tor 150 patients,
but has frequently been obliged to make
room for many more. Eighteen Sisters are
employed as nurses under the immediate
charge of Sister Emma, while Sister Wanda
Von Oerlzen, the present Superior, has the
general care and supervision. This hospital
was one of the first to admit a female prac
titioner Dr. Marie L. Bauer on equal
terms with other members of the staff.
. Two-thirds of the patients are men, and the
male wards are alnays full. Among the
donations received during the past year is
one of 500 marks from Emperor William IX
Not only are the deaconesses employed in
the hospital and other institutions con
nected with the Drexcl Home, but also in
parochial work among the sick and needy.
The parish Sister is called by the congrega
tion, lives in its midst, stands under the
pastor's authority, aud works hand in hand
with the Woman's Aid Society among the
poor, the sick and the neglected. The ex
penses other board and lodgingare defrayed
bv the Deaconess Association of the parish,
w'hicli likewise pays f 100 annually to the
Motherhouse, the Sister receiving thence
her clothing, pocket money and care in case
of sickness.
Healthrnlness of the Calling.
The Deaconess House at Kaiserswerth,
the one longest in existence states in its
fortieth annual report: "It must not he
supposed that the deaconess' calling, labor
ious as it is, tends to shorten life. Forty
one sisters are now lying in our graveyard.
Only seven of these, who brought with them
the seeds of consumption, died before their
30th vear. Two lived to be 80. The aver-
Imik P$
liiif fit
Mil
Lutheran Deaconesses in Costume.
age age of the 41 was 40 years." The Dea
coness House at Stuttgart, after an experi
ence of 25 years, states that of 232 sisters,
only 25 have died.and the House at Altoona
established 14 years ago and having 50
Sisters, has not been called upen to mourn a
single death. A review in 1870 of 40 years'
experience shows that of t)40 consecrated
Sisters 418 left the institution for various
reasons. Seventy of them returned to their
parents and 129 were married.
The Day .Nursery on Cayuga avenue,
Germantown, is one of the most interesting
features of the deaconess work in Philadel
phia. It was opeited last year for the care
of children between the ages of four months
and four years whose mothers are obliged
to earn their living away from home. In
fants as young as six weeks are sometimes
received" I was told. A fee of 10 cents a
day is charged for each child for whom food,
care and necessary clothing are provided
during the hours of the mother's absence.
The nursery is a large, pleasant room, where
I found, one morning, nine little ones,
ranging in age from six months to six years.
Four babies, two of them girls, i ere seated
in high chairs allin a row, while five older
ones, all boys, were gathered around a low,
round table.
The Little Foifcs at Dinner.
At about 11:30 the deaconess in charge,
whom the little ones all address as "Sister,"
brought up the dinner, which consisted of
cabbage and potatoes for the five little fel
lows at the table who could help themselves,
and mashed potatoes and eggs lor the babies
In the high chairs, followed by corn starch
pudding lor all but the youngest, who was
comforted by a nursing bottle of milk. The
children were, most of them, chubby and
healthy looking,hile several had bcautilul
eyes and were quite pretty. None of them
understood German, so the deaconess had,
to cor.r and comfort them in her broken
English. I
After eating and drinmng to theirevident
satisfaction, the youngsters were taken into
the adjoining dressing and bathrooms,
where they ere washed and tended by the
motherly hands of the deaconess. A basket
and box full of playthinss had been brought
out'of the corner for the five older boys,
who, seated around their treasures on the
soft rujs that covered the middle of the
painted floor, were busily enjoying them
selves when I came awav after an hour's
amused contemplation of their pranks.
The work of establishing a Home for Meth
odist Deaconesses in Philadelphia was un
dertaken in 18S9 by the AY omen's Home
Missionary Society of the Philadelphia
Methodist Deaconesses in Costume.
Conference. The Home, which was dedi
cated February 20 of last year, is at present
in a rented house on North Sixteenth street,
and has no income but voluntary contribu
tions. The rooms are furnished bv the dii-
fcrent M. E. churches of the city; there are
no severe restrictions, and the six sisters
here at present, including the Superintend
ent, Mrs. E. V. Price, form a pleasant fam
ily circle.
tVorfc or Method 1st Drnconcsses.
Their mornings are devoted to study and
their afternoons to practical work. Each
has one afternoon a week to herself. Some
of the sisters pay their own expenses, while
others receive their board and a monthly al
lowance for clothing. The street garb con
sists of a black dress, long black cloak and
small, close-fitting black bonnet with broad
white strings. The house dress is plain and
neat, but has no distinguishing features.
Two classes of deaconesses are to be trained
in this Home one for nursing and one for
mission Afork.. A two years' course of study
and practical work precedes the licensing of
the deaconesses. Four of the listers are
TEE
TE TABLE, TH
now doing parish work ibr the churches;
one of them has lately had charge of six or
eight industrial schools. The Italian Mis
sion and the Home for Immigrant Women
are also under their care, one of the sisters
meeting all the immigrant steamers. They
could easily find work for ten times their
number.
Candidates for admission to the Home
Sister Svpenor Di ezel Home. T
must be members of the M. E. Church, be
tween 23 and 40 years of aie, and must pos
sess the rudiments of a common school edu
cation as well as a phvsician's certificate of
good health. All applicants are received on
three months' trial, and must serve on pro
bation for not less than two years before
being fullv qualified lor the office of dea
concss No vow is required, and any one is
at liberty to relinquish her position at any
time. Ladies whose home ties do not allow
them to enter fully upon this work can give
a. portion of their time, their labor or their
means to it and be known as associates. No
salaries are paid and none may solicit money
unless duly authorized. 'All donations and
money received where service is rendered
are paid into the treasury of the Home.
There are in this country 22 homes for
Methodist deaconesses, seven being under
the supervision of the Woman's Home Mis
sionary Society. The Lucy Webb Hayes
Memorial Home at Washington, D. C', is
the national home and training school for
these deaconesses.
Norwegian and Episcopal Houses.
Through the efforts of the Swedish Nor
wegian Consul in New York, Mr. C. Bors,
and the Seaman's Missionary in Brooklyn,
Mr. Carien Hansen, the first Scandinavian
deaconess house in America was established
in Brooklyn. Sister Elizabeth Fedde ar
rived here in 1883, forestalling the Phila
delphia Sisters by one year. In 1885 a two
story house was rented and a small hospital
opened. In 18S8 37 patients were received,
1,020 visits made among the sick and needy
and the first probationer admitted. Sister
Elizabeth being called away to establish a,
second Home in Minneapolis, two experi
enced deaconesses arrived from Norway in
the sprinz of 1889 and took charge of the
work in Brooklyn. A hospital with beds
for 33 patients and a deaconess house at 441
Fourth avenue have been built at a cost of
$15,000. The property is owned bv the Nor
wegian Aid Society, with Consul Bors as its
President The institution is Lutheran, but
without official councction with any church
body. The Sisters wear the prescribed dress
andhavc six probationers. They devote
themselves to the care of destitute Norwe
gians in New York, Brooklyn and vicinity,
together with hospital and Sunday school
work in the institution.
New York and Philadelphia have each an
Episcopal deaconess house, both established
last year. Deaconcs3 Homes, Lutheran,
Methodist and of other denominations, have
also been established in Boston, Syracuse,
Buffalo, Detroit, Chicago, Cincinnati,
Omaha, Denver and elsewhere, and the
order sterns to be rapidly gaining in num
bers and influence.
AitoitaA. CHATMAir.
WHALEBOHING A B0DICX.
A Secret of the Dressmaker That 'Will Re
joice the 'Woman Who Sews.
Said one woman to another: "How is it
that your gowns never drag and wrinkle at
the waist, nor get shiny along the seams, as
mine do, while they are good otherwise?"
The answer was laconic. "It's all in the
bones. Not one person in fifty knows how
to put them in properly. But therein lies
half the secret' of tailor-made elegance. It
was my dressmaker who made me so wise.
Her inside finish rose to the rank of high
art. To begin with, she chose soft, firm
lining silk or cotton allowed generous
seams which, after fitting, she cut to a uni
form breadth ot three-quarters of an inch,
and notched to within a quarter inch of the
seam side. Tlfen they were thickly over
hemmed with fine neat stitches, using silk
thread, the color of the stuff Binding she
voted clumsy and destructive to a perfect
fit. It certa'inly does take away all elastici
ty from the edges.
"Boning, though, was the most difficult
point She would have nothing but the
very best whalebone, which comes in two
yard lengths and is tough and pliant This
she soaked in tepid water for 12 hours before
putting in. Then you could sew through
and through it at each end, and all along
its length without either breaking a needle,
losing your amiability or splitting the
whalebone. The casings were of silk stay
tape, sewed on quite full, and held so that
the seam came exactly under the middle of
it At top a finger-length was left loose.
Beginning at the back seam she cut a.bone
long enough to reach from two inches
below the waist-line to the level ot the
lower shoulder blades. 'This was
pushed into the case and sewed through and
through at the bottom. Then pressing it
so that it took almost a crescent shape, she
sewed it through and through at intervals of
two inches, all the way to the top of the
casing. Then it was sewed extra fast, leav
ing about three inches of its length loose
from the bodice. Over this the loose end of
stay-tape was neatly sewed. All the other
seams were treated the same way. The
bone in each had three inches free at the
top. When all were in, the waist almost
stood alone. Upon fastening it, the curves
took the shape of the body, without being
the least in evidence. And the fit they
gave was a joy forever never a wrinkle, a
pucker or crosswise dig anywhere.
Trrs All rits stopped Tree bv Dr. Kline's Great
Serve Itestorcr. So fits alter first day's use. Mar
velous euro. Treutl&e and 52 (X) trial bottle free to
Fit cases. Dr. Kline, 931 Arch St. l'blla., l'a. fiu
We pack, haul, store,' ship, alter, repair,
refinish and reupholster furniture.
Haugh & Keesax, 33 Water street
Btt
n
HI
lift
PITTSBURG - DISPATCH, .
B0UDQ1H,
FASHIONABLE BONNETS.
New York Can Make Them Now as TTclI
as Paris Who the Designers Are Many
Colors and High Prices to Itelgn The
Materials.
rWRITTEJT TOB THE DISPATCH. 1
" Tis claimed with show
of reason that as ele
gant bonnets are made
to-day in New York
as in Paris. We have
the same materials,
the same workwomen,
and within limits
as exacting a public.
Our skilled bonnet
makers are Parisiennes
trained in Paris work
shops. They are ably
seconded by Irish
women, whoby descent
possess fhe purely ar-
tlstic temperament
Moreover, there is
found here and there, In charge of our im
portant establishments, American women ol
education, refinement and character, who
are studying their subject with seriousness.
Between them all the American bonnet Is
in good hands.
It is said that the spring bonnets will
mingle many colors, as none bnt the most
"Frenchy" bonnets have ever done before.
By this we are to understand that where we
have been content with one, or at most two,'
very raw tints, we shall have such a min
gling as will constitute color in the true
sense of the word. This will, it is
prophesied, make the best bonnets higher
in price than ever, because only a milliner
with art knowledge, or with trne art in
stincts, will be able to produce these color
harmonies, and such skill aud ability is rare
and costly. '
Itcqalres the Exercise of Taste.
Such an outlook adds another to the many
reasons why women in general should
learn something about the cround prir.ci
pies of decorative art. On this line it will
be but too easy for ignorant milliners to
produce crude resnlts, and one should be
able at least to tell whether the motley she
wears makes a fright of her or not.
However these things may be there is no
doubt that the bonnet shapes of the coming
season have been to an extent dictated bv
taste and a knowledge of forms. It would
be early to talk of spring headwear werp it
not that tfce reflex influence of it is immense
on the bonnets being 'made and worn at the
present But in order to buy or make a
bonnet intelligently late in the season it is
necessary to look" forward and understand
the important elements of the coming
season. This is what the leading milliners
do, and this is the knowledge the amateur
must have if she will make her own chapcau
successfully.
The Two Styles of Forms.
The crown with no rim, and the rim with
no crown to speak of. This is a general
classification of the new bonnets. One is
for the small capote; the other frames the
face, an effort so becoming to some and so
liked by youthful faces. The first are very
smalL They are slightly peaked, man
darin fashion, a little back of the center, or
else they are of three fillets of graduated
size, tied together at the back. The second
has for its motive the Tam O'Shanter. Its
crowu is low and flat and is properly not a
crown at all, since it does not set down onto
the head. It is more correctly a knot or
center, from which the brim issues and
fails in a charming succession of flops and
flares round the face. The width of the
rim is from 2 to 4 inches, and it narrows
toward the nacK, wnere it is usuuny wiucu
up against the crown.
These forms in their best estate are ele
mentary and good. If we sought proto
types we might fancy for one a plantain
leaf with its stem curled up at the back,
and from the other a single piece of fabrio
tied np in the middle, to make it fall over
and protect the eyes. If only the milliner
would be content If she would not build
them up out of recognition with herpicots
and her pompons.
The Material or the Bonnets.
Spring will see these shapes made up in
fancy straws of yellow, white, gold and
silver, the importations showing a great ex
cess of such braids over the plain ones. At
present the materials are velvet, ribbon,
lsce and jet. Jet is on nearly all dress bon
nets and will be a chief feature in the
spring. Franks made of wire strung with
jet beads andnail heads are now popular
li"-
and will form largely the demi season wear.
The prices fpr these range from a dollar and
a half upward. They need very little trim
ming some thin black texture laid under
neath, a rosette, a bunch of tips and ends.
One of the best things about them and other
bonnets of the. moment is that they can be
made almost as easily by the amateur as by
the professional. The jet frames themselves
can be made at home, with a little ingenuity
and time.
A characteristic jet bonnet of the small
type has black illusion pressed under for a
lining and gathered into aruffle, which pro
jects jound the edges. At the back is a
pompon ot black tips, with a bow of violet
ribbon at its base. In front is a tiny bow
of black velvet ribbon that may be ex
chanced for a bunch of blue violets. Vio
lets are much used on black hats. The
strings are of black satin. Character would
be added to this bonnet if the outlining
wire, instead of being jetted, should be
wound with black velvet ribbon.
A Very Sensible Model.
Of the fillet framework add jits fashion
able treatment, we have a goodlnodel in a
choice pattern bonnet prepared for spring.
The fillets are wound with .black velvet
ribbon. The smallest one ii utilized for a J
2&r f
y n
SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 14,
HE DECORATIONS
crown, and is lined with some milliner's
fabric of green. Under its edge are sewed
white lilacs, which fall over and cover the
two larger fillets. At the back is a knot of
purple lilacs made by cutting one spray in
two, with a bunch of green stems standing
upward, and black satin strings. At the
front of the small fillet is a bunch of black
tips, with a little knot of velvet at its base.
Flowers will be used in profnsionjon the
spring bonnets, but an occaslbnal bunch ot
blue violets is about all that is seen of them
yet. Instead of the drooping lilacs on this
bonnet a similar eflect is produced by over
lapping velvet ribbon ends, doubled and
cut to' wedge-like points, as shown in the
drawing.
Midway between the small and the
rimmed bonnet the toque or turban still
holds a place. One made of strung jet has
two views of it given. An elegant toque
bonnet imported for spring has its sides
jetted and it is covered with a bed of violets
and leaves.
The Tam bonnets have endless variations.
Two views of a jet one are here given, as a
sugcestion.to the amateur who would try
her hand at stringing jet. The crown and
rim are made separately, and the crown is a
flat piece. They are joined together by
wires giving a depth of crown of something
less than an inch. A twist of velvet should
make a fillet round the joining wires.
Though these jet frames are mere open
worlc skeletons they. often have nothing be
tween them and the' hair, but for elegance
they should be lined, and with some gauzy
fabric of plush.
Other Fashionable Deshrni.
Another 'et Tam has the rim full and
bent in flutings. It is lined with black
thread lace, which projects and falls be
witchingly about the face. It has on it
black tips and a bow of orange
ribbon and long streamers of the orange
ribbon and the lace. The lace is eight
inches wide and is sewed upon the ribbon.
Moire ribbon is very much in vogue.
A fashionable hat of the mandarin type Is
of jet and yellow crape. The frame is like
an inverted Baucer, except that it is oblong
and turned up in the back, and has a fillet
set underneath to keep it on the head. To
make this hat, cover the frame with the
crape, in concentric shirrs to the center.
Place over the center a double box-plaited
ruche of the crape. Let black tips toward
the back carry up the height.
Face the rim an inch deep with black vel
vet, and over it fit an open-work jet piece
made on wires, nearly three inches deep.
The inside edge of this- piece is raised, giv
ing a slope to the outline. Fill in the back
with a knot of the crape and a loop or two
of black velvet ribbon. Add strings of
black satin.
Bonnet strings have been narrow for some
time, but broad streamers will be on spring
bonnets and hats, both large and smalL
They reach below the waist and part way
down are caught together with a rosette.
Jet ornaments will be very much used. As
they also are made on wire there is no
reason why a.woman with a little knowl
edge of design should not make her own.
Ada Cone.
A PACT ABOUT EEAL LACJS.
The New York Appraisers Say It Unit
Have the Hexagonal Mesh.
A curious, question has been settled by
the Board of Appraisers of the Custom
House iiNew York. The question is as to
what constitutes lace. This is the decision
they set down by the light of which any
woman will be able to tell at once whether
she has true lace in her possession or not
The one characteristic of lace that distin
guishes it from all other fabrics lies not in
the material of which it is made, because
that may be. of silk or of linen or of cotton.
Neither does it lie in the decorations that
are wrought upon it because the same needle
work is often put upon other fabrics. But
the one characteristic of lace the real lace
ness, so to speak, lies in the way in which
the net itself is woven. "The hexagonal
mesh," sags the report of the authorities,
"is the essential feature, as it is the distin
guishing characteristic of lace, the process
of its formation being akin to knitting, as
it is the antithesis of weaving."
This makes lace of all the nets used for
gowns or trimmings, if they h3ve the open
worK structure. Chiffon is not lace, hut fish
net and Brussels net are. Tnlle is lace, but
the sheerest ntull is not The face veilings
are properly lace veils, except the grena
dines, which are not, no matter how heavily
they may be edged.
Fob sprains Salvation Oil is the but. 25
ct.
3892L
ID
FOR HEALTH AND COMFORT.
Shirley Da.-e's Answers to Qarstlon on
Hygiene Danger In a l'lmply Nose
Helen Watterson's Snccestions Cooklnc;
for the Slclc-OId Age.
Among the questions sent by readers of
The Dispatch to Shirley Dare the follow
ing she has deemed worthy of attention:
LlHth She Is not 22. and Is troubled with
inflammation in the nose, showing Itself In
dlsagiccablo ltttle pimples in each. corner
and on the tip.
The pimply noses, when the rest of the
face is perfectly clear, mean mischief, in
ternal inflammation and depravity of blood.
'One does not feel like passing such things
lightly after seeing women with the end of
the nose eaten off by ulcers which began
with a little pimple. Possibly I should not
have taken this case seriously if I had not
lately twice teen such instances in well
dressedjwell.appearing, middle-aged women,
going about with a bit of white rag on the
nose illy concealing the ravages of disease.
The time to insure against such miseries is
in early life, and Lilith is fortunate1 that
the vexatious little pimple on her nose has
called attention to a state of things which
might develop in rodunt ulcer or worse.
She mns begin at once to study health as
she would English literature in one of the
fiddlcfaddle clubs women adore, where they
attend to every subject but the indispen
sable one of hygiene. They would find no
subject so absorbing if once rightly entered
upon. It is not possible to advise with
mere mention of a single symptom. Proba
bly the first thing needed is dosage with
Epsom salts in hot water every morning for
a week, the food to be cereals, coarse brown
bread, fresh lean meats, (not pork, which
may account tor the pimples alone), no salt
meat or fish, and plenty of vegetables which
contain sulphur, turnips, fresh cabbage (un
cooked), cresses, cauliflower, with mustard
and horseradish as relishes. Baths twice a
week or oftener, hot fomentations to the
regions of the hips, front and back, and
warm dressing for the Mower limbs from the
hips down are indicated, to avoid conges
tions. It has lately come to light that
much ot the backache and inflammation
which reflects uoon the face among women
is caused by nether garments which shrink.
leaving a sensitive part of the back ill-protected.
Lumbago, spine trouble, chronic
colds and a number of others are traced to
this defect
Daifly B. She Is too stont, although she
usually takes bnt two meals a day and does
not eat very much then. She desires to
knowtho best diet, and whether lean meat
Is I ittening.
Lymphatic persons, slow, pallid, unen
ergetic, tend to fatness whether they eat
less or more, above starvation point "Lean
meat aSd fish are the best food for them, as
supplying the nervous stimulation they
need. Leave out the cereals, rice and pota
toes as regular articles of food, and take
green vegetables, salads and fruits with the
crust of bread. Coarse graham bread, from
which no part of the wheat has been bolted
or removed, is an indispensable corrective
for stout people, but it should be hardbaked
or toasted. Spiced food may beindulged in
by such persons more freely than by others.
Milk is'forbidden, coffee and tea are allowed,
but not cocoa of chocolate. All fermented
liquors must be let alone strictly, and the
bread for corpulents is better made with
baking powderthan yeast Well ventilated,
sunny rooms with good fires and dry cellars
are very necessary to stoutish persons who
fatten like Strasbourg geese in close, dull
air and grow dropsical in damp house?. Sun
and air oxydize tissue so that it is used up,
instead of clogging the body. Hot ammonia
baths one teaspoonful of liquid ammonia
to twelve quarts of water cleause and
stimulate; aud onco in a month or six weeks
an old-fashioned dose should be taken of
cream and tartar and compound powder of
jalap, which is much kinder to corpulence
than the obesity waters, to much advertised.
TJielka Please tell me how to cure red,
weaic looting cyeiius ana an overiy sensi
tive lachrymal duct
It is out of the question to risk advice on
such slight particulars. The age and tem
perament of the person, general condition,
the use of the eyes, the duration of the
trouble should all be considered. It it is a
transient inflammation apply rose water,
with borax the size of a common pea dis
solved in a half pint; keep the lids wet as
often and as long as possible. An old
remedy for inflamed lids is the pulp of a
tender apple with rosewater; this is bound
on the eves with old linen. Another quaint
method was to cut a thick paring of juicy
apple and bind the cut side on the lid. Red
eyelids and watery eyes, from impurity of
blood, call for alterative medicines and
thorough treatment
Odds and Ends of Hygiene.
Under the heading "Bodily Comforts,"
Helen Watterson writes to The Dispatch
as follows:
Yon who are so fortunate as to have as
late in the winter as this some rich cider,
well preserved in casks or demijohns, are
counseled, when drinking it, to try the
single addition to its fruity body that will
improve it, namely, fresh Apollinaris water.
The better way is not to pour the water into
a glass until it is about a third full, and
then pour the cider, into that and stir it a
moment before drinking so as to get the
carbonic acid gas quite through the body of
the cider. Not only is 'cider mixed thus
with Apollinaris more healthful, bnt it is as
pleasant as champagne, with none of its un
pleasant after effects.
A little cold sometimes settles in a single
sensitive tooth, resulting in an inflamma
tion which causes extreme tenderness and J
pain. This is particularly liable to happen
to a tooth in which the nerve has been- de
stroyed and is the usual cause of the ulcera
tion that results often in the loss of the
tooth. If, when, the first soreness comes,
the following course is pursued, the effect is
often magical: Dip a small lamel's hair
brush into a tincture of iodine and paint the
gum lightly all about the root of the tootb.
Keep out of the cold and draughts, and in
six to ten hours paint again. But the like
lihood is that before that time comes the
soreness will quite have disappeared.
The leasou why vomiting in infants Is'so
easily accomplished, while the same act in
an adult is accompanied with so much pain
and difficulty, lies in the 'difference in the
shape of the stomach in each case. The
human stomach, as is well known, is a con
tinuation of the muscular tube called the
Esophagus. Now a baby's stomach
is little more than a slight distention
of this tube, Vith the axis of the
stomach nearly in the same line as the axis
of the oesophagus. Any contraction of the
muscles of a baby's stomach, therefore,
will push the contents back into the oesoph
agus without pain. With adults this is not
so, because with growth the shape of the
stomach has greatly changed. It is pear
shaped when lull grown, a body convex in
outline and lying lengthwise across the
body, with the oesophagus opening out of it
at the upper end of the less curved side. To
get the contents of the full-grown stomach
back into the oesophagus isltherefore, not
an easy matter, and a much more violent
action of the muscles is necessary to accom
plish it. This it is that makes the pain
and discomfort attendant upon vomiting in
an adult, while a baby, bless its tube
shaped little stomach, cap; part with its
food without pain.
Many persons find that thev can't eaf
English walnuts without followingdiscom
fort, and as English walnuts are very good
eating indeed, these persons are divided be
tween lamentation if they eat them, and
lamentation if they don't An English
physician (who should certainly be an au
thority on English walnnts) fays that
the indigestible part of the kernel lies, not
in the meat, but in the thin skin that sur
rounds it If this is removed people can
eat them freely without distress. The pro
cess of blanching, which meant simply
HYGIENE.
plunging them into boiling water for a few
minntes, will loosen the skins so that they
mar easily be slipped off If to these
blanched meats a pinch of salt be added the
minimum of danger is increased with the
maximum of comfort because the nuts really
are improved in the process.
B. W. B.ichardson,the eminent authority,
has been making a study of the effect of the
odor of flowers upon the human system.
The most curious effect is that the heavy
odor of lilies, Mr. Richardson says, are
most unhappy. "I have never known a
single instance," he testifies, "in which the
odor of lilies did not prodnce depression
and nausea to a more or less marked de
Cookins for the Sick. On-f.
A lady physician writes The Dispatch
as follows:
There should be in every house a pair ofq
small porcelain-lmeu kettles sacredly kept
for sickroom cookery. While a broth
might be made in the grnel kettle, a delicate
porridge would take to itself the slightest
of meat flavors and odors. The "burning
down" of food and the "chipping" of the
lining, accidents which sooner or later befall
kettles in constant nse, make them wholly
unfit for sickroom service. A fresh rinsing
with boiling water immediately at the
moment of rinsing should always be given.
The rims, bails and ears of these kettles
should receive the closest of scrutiny; the
brush should be vigorously applied at every
washing, and the drying cloth be immacu
late. In a finfe house, where the crystal and
silver shone like sunshine. I once saw a gray
shred of dishcloth clinging about the ear of
a saucepan in which sago was cooking for a
fastidious invalid.
To make a delicate broth nse half a gallon
of cold water to a pound of meat, which
should have the bone crushed but not re
moved. Bring it to a quick boil in order to
throw np the scum. Skim'very clean; then
set where it will only barely bubble for
three hours. Then strain the broth away
from the meat, which should be found
"cooked to rags." Wash the kettle and
return the broth to it, and add salt deli
cately, as the taste of a person in illness is
usually fr more sensitive to seasonings
than when in health. Let it come to the
boiling point and strain again. If the con
dition of the patient demands it; take off
the fine particles of fat by laying a fresh
blotting paper ora folded napkinnpou the
surface lor two or three seconds. Serve in
a warmed bowl.
For gruel bring a pint of water to a sharp
boil. Meanwhile be stirring two tabie
spoonfuls of either oat or yellow cornmeal
vigorously in half a pint of cold water. Let
this settle for half a minute, then dip off
the liquid and add it to the boiling water,
stirring well as von do it. Take care that
none of the solid particles go in. Add a
very little salt .Boil for ten minutes and
serve hot
A Comfort to Old Age.
The following comes to The Dispatch
from Margaret Ford:
There are few things that give an elderly
woman so much comfort and pleasure as
the possession of a maid of her own; and
whenever the circumstances of a family
make it possible it is a wise plan to allow
the old mother, grandmother or aunt this
luxury; and sometimes it is wise to do so
even at the cost of considerable pinching in
other matters.
With age there always comes on amount
of weakness that causes a thousand things
to be felt as difficult and almost impossible
efforts, but which with a maid at command
would at once be accomplished and yield
their full amount of pleasure.
This maid runs the desired errand, does
the little shopping, takes on herself the
lifting, the managing, the fetching and
carrying. She reads the daily paper or
the new book, fills the gaps of a life where
so many places would be barren and desert
without her; and in doing this she spares
the rest of the family fatigue of many
sorts, both bodily and nervous, meanwhile.
too, sparing her old mistress physical exer
tion, she prevents much wear and tear, and
so prolongs her life.
Then, too, the maid affords the old mis
tress a great deal of society; for age is not
so fastidious as youth, and the busy chat
ting that may be heard going on when they
are together "shows how useful the younger
person is in that respect and how much
pleasure she gives. And as age is apt to be
garrulous and in that respect tiresome, this
maid acts as a breakwater against any tor
rent of talk for the rest of the household.
It is not the household, however, but the
old member of it that is to be considered,
and all who are able to do so, if they try
the experiment, will find that it is fertile in,
happiness.
BEAUTIFUL HOUSE CX0CZB.
Two Masterpieces of the Artistic Jeweler
That Come a tittle High.
A beautiful clock recently shown in New
Yort is a grandfather's clock glorified. The
case is of rose
wood, beautifully
polished. There
is elaborate mold
ing all down and
about the plate
glass front The
dial, which stands
higher than a
tall man's head,
is of camina wood
a lovely light
ish brown in color
with dial fig
ures inlaid in
Ivory and ebony.
It strikes the half
hours, the quar
ters, and shows
the difference be
tween solar and
sidereal time, is
furnished with a
full set of silver
toned Westmin
ster chimes, and
costs exactly
$1,500 very
cheap, consider
ing that it was a
special mention
at the Paris Ex
position. Another tall timepiece shown in New
York the other day is cased in onyx and
oriental jasper, very pretty, trimmed with
the finest bronze gilt Six hundred dollars
is the price which goes to show that hard
wood is a bit more costly than harder semi
precious stone.
fii'lsl
The Wolf in Sheep's Glofhfn
The poisonous flavoring extracts in the market
'are one of the wolves in sheep's clothing which
ruin the stomach, causing dyspepsia and blood
diseases before the consumers have discovered
their true character. The only safety the public
has is to buy only such goods as are well known
to be of the finest grade and purest quality.
Dr. Price's Delicious Flavoring Extracts -
are just what they purport to be4 containing no
, poisonous oils or ethers which are used in mak
ing the cheap extracts. Dr. Price's Vanilla, Lem
on, Orange, etc., are made from the true fruit.
18
KITCHEN CHEMISTRY.
Scientific Explanation of the Action
of Soap Upon Grease.
"THE KIND OP -CLOTHS TO USS.
Hot Water and Snnshino a3 Exterminator!
of the Microbes.
THB BEEED1XG GK0UXDS OF GBKHS
rwrrrrnnr rore Tire dispatch.
Every cloth used in the kitchen should be
neatly hemmed and have a tape loop for
hanging it up. Dish towels must be of
linen, but for dish cloths nothing is better
than cheese cloth, four thicknesses quilted
together. This material is also good for
dusting cloths. For the cleaning of paint
and floor use a heavier linen, but of good
absorbing qnality. Several sets of these
cloths should be kept on hand in a special
drawer; this is a necessary step toward
good housekeeping. Servants, like chil
dren, are easily made orderly if order it
made easy.
When a cleaning cloth has been used It
must be itself cleaned but how?
A rinse and a squeeze is not enough.
Kitchen dirt is always largely mixed with
grease, and grease must come in contact
with a substance of alkaline nature as
soap, soda or ammonia before it is remov
able by water. To be sure, the chemist
uses benzine, alcohol, chloroform or ether to
dissolve fats, but for us of the kitchen theso
agents are both too expensive and too dan
gerous. We, too, however, are chemical
manipulators, and in nothing more surely
than in the processes of cleansing.
Tho Ke-Aents or the Kitchen.
Our grandmothers kept things sweet and
wholesome on the farm with soft soap and
lye, and foe U3 the hard soap of commerca
performs the same work. With all the re
searches ot the laboratories and the boards
of health, soap, hot water and sunshine still
hold their place in the front rank as clean- ,
ing agents, and the finest chemical testa
have their rival in a good nose. To under
stand just how soap acts on grease, is to
know what was a mystery to even the scien
tists a half century ago. Like many other
homely processes, it is by no means simple,
but the main points in it we can readily
understand.
Let us half fill two glasses with hot water
and pour into e.ich a lew drops of any kind
of oil. We shall see that the oil swims on
the surface and does not mix. Now into
one of the glasses drop a teaspoonful of soap
shavings and stir it till it dissolves. Soap
does not, however, really dissolve in water
as salt does; the water is more or less tur
bid, for the soap, giving off some of its al
kali to the water, becomes itself a less solu
ble soap. The freed alkali unites with soma
of the fat to form a new sap, which, to
gether with the less soluble soap above men
tioned, serves to envelop the minute parti
cles into which we have broken the fat by
beating.
Hot SonpActs on Gresio.
This condition of the oil, in which each
minute globule is coated with a film of soap,
is called an emulsion; and the oil is in ex
actly the same state that we find the fat
globules of new milk, only that the coating
then is casein. We know how easily milk,
when spilled on a fabric, can be washed out,
leaving no stain of fat, and so with this oil
and soap mixture, but if either this or tho
milk be allowed to dry into the fabric each
particle of fat will lose its protecting envel
ope and remain as grease. Hence the im
portance of rinsing out the soapy wate
from a cloth that has been washed in it
The soap holds grease and dirt in the form
of an emulsion, and all will go together
with rinsing; but if allowed to dry into tho
cloth we shall keep both soap and dirt, as
the dingy hard surface of the cloth will bear
witness.
Soda, or sal-soda, as a cleansing agent,
needs a word of explanation. Here wa
have the alkali only, which, as soon as it Is
dissolved, unites with part of the grease and
forms a soap which then acts as soap on the
rest of the grease. Dissolve a little soda In
hot water and add oil, as we did to the soap
solution. On shaking it well, we have a
liquid so .closely resembling milk in ap
pearance that placed side by side we could
not tell one from the other. Ifwejjour
this out we shall find no greasy deposit on
the side of the glass; every microscopic
globule has been safely coated with th
soap, and so carried off by the water.
Klllln- Off the Microbes.
It is best, however, to use our Alkali fa
the form of soap already made; it is in a
milder and less corrosive form, and It is
more under our control, being dissolved on
a little at a time as we need it Sal-soda is
very useful for rougher cleaning, and to
precipitate the lime of hard water.
Hot water is the natural co-worker with
soap in these cleansing processes. It not
only increases the solubility of the soap bnt
kills these ever-present microbes whose
effect in making cleaning cloths sour is so
familiar in the kitchen. Another great
purifier is sunshine, and if after washing
the clothes can be sunned as well as dried,
the lavender chest itself could not make
them sweeter to the nose of the hygienlst
Dry they must be when they are put awayj
for warmth and moisture being provided,
the microbes always ready in the air will
grow. Gangrene in the mop will not bring
sorrow to the family ft it only stays In the
mop, but these germs have a way of spread
ing and it is a very troublesome way.
The closed cupboard under the sink pos
sesses all the qualifications for a first-clan
breeding ground for bacteria; and since to
keep it as it should be kept is too much to
expect of human nature, at any rate ob hur
ried, overworked human nature, it should
be banished from the kitchen. If, as wa
have said, 'the kitchen cloths are really
cloths and not "rags," they will be treated
with more respect, and if kept clean and
duly hung in place, they are ngl unsightly.
The Peofzssos.
Wa carry large force of expert fuxnltnr
packers, and furnish estimates on packing,
storing and shipping of household goods.
HAXJGn & ExEXAir, 33 Water street.
an
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