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SECOND PART.
T
TIieFirst of ffis Series of Euro
pean letters to The
Dispatch.
OBSERVATIONS AT AIX.
Utility of the Crowned Heads of
the Continent as Adver
tising Agencies.
PLEXTT OP FULL-GROWN 50ISES.
Disappointed With the Prince of Wales'
Favorite Game and the Happi
ness of Gamblers.
FXrERIEXCE IS TUB DOUCHE-BATH.
k rmcnpticn ef DrintJnf TTstcr That En
calM the Banal risceof thsArnrjcf
One of the Cssars.
TBB rtriECKES OF A TEIT TO tlKE AX5ECT
Letter No. 1.
rnp-mEM-o-cDTVcE or the BnrATCa.1
-ArX-LES-BAIXS, FKJUTCE. Oct. 23.
EKTAINYY Aix-les-Bains
is an enohant
ing place. It in a
trong word, but I
think the facts justify
it. Trac. there is a
rabble of nobilities,
big and lit le, here
all the time, and often
a king or two, bat sB
these behaTe quite
nicely and also keep
mainly to themselves, they are little cr no
annoyance.
And then a tint; mates the bct advertise
ment there is, and the cheapest. All he
costs is a reception at the ctation by the
Slayer and the police in their Sunday uni
form, shop front decorations along the
route from station to hotel, brass band at
the hotel, fireworks in the evening, free
MARK TWAIN Off
bath in the morning. This is the whole ex
pense; and in return for it he goes away
from here with the broad of his back meta
phorically stenciled overwith display ads.,
whieh shout to all the nations of the earth
ansisled by the telegraph.
Rhenmatlsm routed at Alr-lei-Ualns: :
: Gout mJmnnisl'ed, Serves braced no!
I All niseaes welcomed, und ttuisfac- :
tlon gi en or the icoucy returned at
: the door!
"We leave nature's noble cliffs and crags
nndefiied and unii.sulted by theadiertUer's
paint brush. "We use the back of a king,
which is better and propcrer, and more
effective, too, for the cliff stays still and few
ece it, but the king moves across the fields
of the world, and is visible from all points
like a constellation.
Mark's Compliments to the Czir.
"We are out of kings this week, but one
will be along toon probably his Satanie
Majesty of Russia. There's a colossus tor
youl A mysterious and terrible form that
towers up into unsearchable space and casts
a shadow across the universe like a planet
!n eclipse. There will be but one absorbing
spectacle in this world when we stencil him
and start him out.
This is an old valley, this of Aix, both
in the history of man and the geological
records of its rocks. Its little lake of
liourget carries the hnman history back to
the lake dwellers, furnishing seven groups
of their habi ations, aud Dr. William
Wakefield says in his interesting local guide
book that the mountains round about furn
'''. "geologically, a veritable epitome of
the globe." The stratified chapters of the
earth's history are clearly and permanently j
written on the sides of the roaring bulk of
the Dent du Chat, but many of the lavers of j
rare, religion, and government, which in
turn have flourished and perished here be- '
tween tt.e lake dweller of s-cveral thousand
3 cars ago and the French Republican of to
day, are ill-defined and nninforming by com
parison. Changes With the Fleeting Tears.
There were several varieties of pagans.
HERE'S MARK
WI
I They went their way, one after the other,
down Into night and oblivion, leaving no
j account of themselves, no memorials. The
Roman arrived 2,300 years ago; other parts
of 1'rance are rich with remembrances of
their eight centuries of occupation, but not
many are here. Other pagans followed the
Romans. By and by Christianity arrived,
some 400 years after the time of Christ.
The long procesion of races, languages, re
ligions and dynasties demolished each
other's monuments and obliterated each
other's records it is man's way always.
As a result, nothing is left of the handi
work of the remoter inhabitants of the region
except the constructions of the lako dwell
ers and some Roman odds and ends. There
is part of a small Eoman temple, there is
part of a Roman bath, there is a graceful
and battered Roman arch. It stands on a
turfy tevel over the way from the present
great bath house, is surrounded by magnolia
tiees, and is both a picturesque and sug
gestive objee. It has stood there some
1,600 years. Its nearest neighbor, not 20
steps away, is a Catholic Church. They are
symbols of the two chief eras In the history
of Aix Tes, and of the European world.
A Boman Arch Wllhoot a Sign.
I judge that the venerable arch is held in
reverent esteem by everybody, and that this
esteem is its sufficient protection from in
sult, for it is the onlr public structure I
have yet seen in France which lacks the
6ign: "It is forbidden to post bills here."
Its neighbor, the church, has that sign on
more than one of its sides, and other signs,
too, forbidding certain other sorts of desecra
tion. The arch's next nearest neighbor just at
its elbow, like the church is the telegraph
office. So there you have the three great
eras bunched together the era of "War, the
era of Theology, the era of Business. You
pass under the arch, and the buried Ctesars
seem to rise from the dust of the centuries
and flit before yon; you pass by that old
battered church, and are in touch with the
Middle Ages, and with another step you can
put down 10 francs and shake bauds with
Oshkosh under the Atlantic.
Well, all these eras above spoken of are
modern, they are of last week, they are of
yesterday, they are of this morning, so to
speak. The springs, the healing waters
that gush up from under this hillside vil
lage, indeed are ancient; they, indeed, are
a genuine antiquity; they ante-date all
those fresh human matters by processions of
centuries; they were born with the fossils of
Dent du Chat, and they have been always
limpid and always abundant. They fur
nished a million gallons a day to wash the
lake dwellers with, the same to wash the
Csesar with, no less to wash Balzac with,
and have not diminished on my account
ASmall Quantity of Water.
A million gallons a day for how many
davs? F'ures cannot set forth the number.
The ..ilvery, in the aggregate, has amount
ed 'ja an Atlantic And there is still an
Atlantic down in-there. By Dr. Wakefield's
HIS TRAVELS.
calculation that Atlan'io is three-quarters
of a mile down in the earth. The calcula
tion is based upon the tcmrjerature of the
water, which is 114 to 117 Fahrenheit.the
natural law beinz that below a certain denth
. heat augments at the rate of 1 for every 60
feet of descent.
Aix is handsome and is handsomely situ
ated, too, on its hill slope, with its stately
prospect of mountain range and plain spread
out before it and about it. The streets are
mainlv narrow, and steep and crooked and
interesting, and offer considerable variety
in the wav of names: Rue du Piiits d'E ifer
pit of Hades street. Some of the sidewalks
are only IS inches wide: they are for the
cats probably. There is a pleasant park,
and there arc spacious and beautiful grounds
connected with the two great pleasure re
so'ts, the Cercle aud the Villa des Fleurs.
The town consists of big hotel, little ho
tels, and pensions. The season lasts about
sx months, beginning with May. When it
is at its height there are thousands of vis
itors here, and in the course of the season
as many as 20,000 in the aggregate come
and go.
The Gambling nd tho Climate.
These are not all here for the baths; some
tuuic iut mo gauiDiing lacintles and some
for the climate. It is a climate where the
field strawberry flourishes through the
spring, summer and fall It is hot in the
summer, and hot in earnest; but this is only
in the daytime; it is not hot at night. The
English season is Mnv and June; they get a
pood deal of rain then, aud thev like that
The .Americans take July, aud 'the French
take August. By the 1-t of July the open
air tnusio and the evening concerts and
operas and plays are fairlv under wav, and
from that time onward the' rush of pleasure
has a steadily increasing boom. It is said
that in August the great grounds and the
gambling moms are crowded all the time
and no end of ostensible fun going on.
It is a good place for rest and sleep and
general recuperation of forces. The book
of Dr. Wakefield says there is something
about this atmosphere which is the deadly
enemy of insomnia, and I think this must
be true, for if I am any judse, this tswn is
at times the uoisiest one in Europe, and vet
a body gets more sleep here than he could
at home, I don't care where his home is.
Now we are living at a most comfortable
and satisfactory nensinn. with nrHn nt
shade trees and flowers and shrubs, and 'a 1
1 " ' . .
THE PITTSBURG DISPATCH
convincing air of qniet and repose. But
just across the narrow street is the little
market square, and at a corner of that is
that church that is neighbor to the Roman
arch, aud that narrow street, and that bil
liard table of a market place, and that
church re able, on a bet, to turn out wore
noise to the cubio Yard at the wrong time
than any other similar combination in the
earth or" out of it.
A Great Place for Noise.
In the street yon have the skull-bursting
thunder of the passing hack, a volume of
sound not producible bv six hacks anywhere
else; on the hack is a lunatic with a whip,
which he cracks to notify the public to get
out of his way. This crack is as keen and
sharp and penetrating and ear-splitting as a
fistol shot at close range, and the lunatic
clivers it in volleys, not single shots. You
think you will not be able to live till he
fets by, and when he does get by he only
eaves a vacancy for the bandit who sells
Le Pitit Journal to fill with his strange and
awful yell. He arrives with the early morn
ing arid the market people, and there is a
dog that arrives at about the same time and
barks steadily at nothing till he dies, and
they fetch another dog just like blm. The
bark of this breed is the twin of the whip
voller, and stabs like knife.
By and by, what is left of you the church
belfgets. There are many bells and appar
ently 6,000 or 7,000 town clocks, and as they
are nil five minutes apart probably by law
'there are no intervals. Some of them are
striking all the time at last, after you go
to bed they are. There is one clock that
strikes the hour, and then strikes it over
again to se if it was right Then for even
ings and bundays there is a chime a chime
that starts in pleasantly and musically.then
suddenly breaks into a frantio roar, and
boom, and crash of warring sounds that
makes you think Paris is up and the revolu
tion come again. And yet, as I have said,
one sleeps here sleeps like the dead. Once
he gets his grip on his sleep, neither hack,
nor whip, nor news fiend, nor dog, nor bell
cyclone, nor all of them together can
wrench it loose or mar its deep and tranquil
continuity. Yes, there is indeed something
in this air that is death to insomnia.
The Style or Entertalment
The buildings of the Cercle add the Villa
des Fleurs are huge in size, and each has a
theater in it, and a great restaurant, also
conveniences for gambling and general and
variegated entertainment They stand in
ornamental grounds of great extent and
beauty. The multitudes of fashionable
folk sit at refreshment tables in the open
air, afternoons, and listen to the music, and
it is there they mainly go to break the Sab-
uuiu. j.u tv wie j'riviisgc ui entering inese
grounds and buildings you buy a ticket for
a few francs, which is good for the whole
season. You are then free to go and come
at all hours, attend the plays and concerts
free, except on special occasions, eamble.
buy refreshments, and make yourself sym
metrically comfortable.
Nothing could be handier than those two
little theaters. The curtain doesn't rise un
til 8:30; then between the acts one can idle
tor half an hour in the other departments
of the building, damaging his appetite in
the restaurants or his pockekbook in the
baccarat room. The singers and actors are
from Paris, and their performance is beyond
praise.
I was never in a fashionable gambling hell
until I came here. I had read several mill
ions of descriptions of such places, but the
reality was new to me. I very much wanted
to see this animal, especially the now his
toric game of baccarat, and this was a good
place, for Aix ranks next to Monte Carlo
tor high play and plenty of it But the
result was wht I might have expected
the interest of the looker-on perishes with
the novelty of the spectacle; that is to sao,
in a lew minutes. A permanent and in
tense interest is acquired in baccarat, or in
any other game, but you have to buy it
You don't get it by standing around look
ing on. .;,..
A Flexible Oar In Baccarat
The baccarat table is covered with green
cloth and is marked off in divisions with
chalk or something. The banker sits in the
middle, the croupier opposite. The cus-
We always carry your
account through sick
ness or loss of employ
ment; we never grind
an honest man down.
Household Credit Co.
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fr ! M , i i i - - " ' - . ' ,i ' , i i - . ' '" '1
PITTSBURG STJNDAY
tomers fill all the chairs at the table, and
the rest of the crowd are massed at their
backs and leaning over them to deposit
chips or gold coins. Constantly money and
chips are flung upon the table, and the
game seems to consist in the croupier's
reaching lor those things with a flexible
sculling oar, and raking them home. It
appeared to be a rational enousjh game for
him, and if I could have borrowed his oar
I would have stayed, but I didn't See where
the entertainment of the others came in.
This was because I saw without perceiv
ing and observed without understanding.
For the widow and the orphan and the
others do win money there. Once an old
gray mother in Israel or elsewhere pulled
out and I heard her say to her daughter or
her granddaughter as they passed me,
"There, I've won six louis, and I'm going
to quit while I'm ahead." Also there wa
this statistic. A friend pointed to a young
man with the dead stub of & cigar in his
month, which he kept raunehing nervously
all the time and pitching $100 chips on the
board, while two sweet yonng girls reached
down over his shonlder to deposit modest
little gold pieces, and said, "He's only fun-
JVvV.rjJi. lC?l &y(0 . y?f
arra three aces.
ning, now; wasting a few hundred to pass
the time waiting for the 'gold room to
open, you know, which won't be till well
after midnight then you'll see him betl
He won 14,000 there last night. They
don't bet anything there but big money."
No Candidates for Suicide.
The thing I chiefly missed was the hag
gard people with the intense eye, the hunt
ed look, the desperate mien, candidates for
suicide and the pauper's grave. They are
in the descriptions, as a ml", but they were
off dutv that night All the gamblers, male
and female, old and young, looked abnor
mally cheerful and prosperous. However,
all the ations were there, clothed richly,
and speaking all the languages. Some of
the Women were painted, and were evident
ly shaky as to character. These items tallied
Willi me uesuripuuua itcn cuuugu.
The etiquette of the place was difficult to
master. In the brilliant and populous halls
and corridors you don't smoke, and vou
wear your hat no matter how many ladies
are in the thick throng of drifting humanity;
but the moment you cross the sacred thresh
hold and enter he gambling hell, off the hat
must come, and everybody lights his cigar
and goes to suffocating the ladies.
Hunting Oat the Right Bath.
But what 1 came here for, five weeks ago,
was the baths. My right arm was disabled
with rheumatism. To sit at home in Amer-
WE
Our Holiday Goods are now arriving and we need the room to show them off to an ad
vantage, so for the balance of the month we inaugurate the Greatest
Sacrifice Sale of our entire stock of
FURNITURE, CARPETS, STOVES AND BEDDING
eybb zEcrowisn
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MISS THE GREATEST SACRIFICE
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NOVEMBER 8, 1891
fca and guess out the European bath best
j fitted for a particular ailment or combina-
tion of ailments, it Is not possible, and it
would not be a good idea to experiment in
j that way, anyhow. There are a great many
curative baths on the continent, aud some
are good for one disease, but bad for an
other. So it is necessary to let a physician
name your bath for you. As a rule, Amer
icans go to London to get this advice, and
South Americans go to Paris for it Kow
and then an economist chooses his bath him
self and does 1,000 miles of railroading to
fet to it, and then the local physicians tell
im he has come to the wrong place. He
sees that he has lost time and money and
strength, and almost the minute that he re
alizes this he loses his temper. I had the
rheumatism, and was advised to go to Aix,
not so much because I had that disease i s
because I bad the promise of certain others.
What they were was not explained to me.
but they are either in the following menu
or I have been sent to the wro'ng place. Dr.
Wakefield's book says:
We know that tho class or maladies bene
fltedby the water and baths at Aix are those
due to defect of nutrition, Jebillty of the
r.7Xv-v
vS.-
nerrons svstem, or to a gonty, rhenmatte,
herpetic or s rnfiilousduithesis all diseases
extremely debilliatlnirand requlrtnga tonic,
Hiid not a depressing action of the remedv.
This it seems to find here, as recorded ex
perience and diiiK notion can testify.
According to the line of treatment, followed
nnrticulatlv with tiue reznrd to the temner-
atutc, the action ot the Ait waters can be
mnde sedative, exciting, derivative or alter
ative and tonic.
The Temple or the Baths.
The" "Establishment" is the property of
France, and all the officers and servants are
employes of the French Qovernment The
bath house is a huge and massive pile of
white marble masonry, and looks more like
a temple than anythingelse. It lias several
floois, aud each" Is full of bath cabinets.
There is every kind of bath for the nose,
the ears, the throat, vapor baths, tub baths,
swimming baths and all people's favorite,
the douche. It is a good building to get
lost in, when you are not familia- with it
From early morning until nearly noon peo
ple are streaming in and streaming out with
out halt
The majority come afoot, but great num
bers are brought in sedan chairs, a suf
ficiently ugly contrivance whose cover is a
steep little tent made of striped canvas.
You see nothing of the patient in this
diving bell as the bearers tramp along, ex
cept a glimpse of his ankles bound together
and swathed around with blankets or towels
to that generous degree that the result
MUST HAVE THE RQQ
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suggests a sore piano leg. By attention
and practice the pall bearers have got so
that they can keep Out of step all the time
and they do it As a consequence their
veiled churn goes reeking, tilting, swaying
along like a Dell buoy in aground swell.
It makes the oldest sailor seasick to look at
that spectacle.
The Details ot the Course.
The "course" is usually 13 douche baths
and S tub baths. You take the douche
three days in succession, then knock off and
take a tub. You keep up this distribution
through the Coarse. If one conrse does not
cure voUjyou take another one alter an in
terval. You seek a local physician ami he
examines your case and prescribes the kind
of bath required for it, with various other
particulars; then you buy your course
tickets and pay for them in advance f 9.
With the tickets you get a memorandum
book with your dates and hours all set
down in it The doctor takes you into the
bath the first morning and gives some in
structions to the two doucheurs who are to
handle you through the course.
The p'our boires are about 10 cents to each
of tho men for each bath, payable at the end
of the course. Also at the end of the course,
you pay 3 or 4 francs to the superintendent
of your department of the bath house. These
are useful particulars to know, and are not
to be found in the books. A servant of your
hotel carries your towels and sheet to the
bath daily and brings them away again.
They are the property of the hotel; the
French Government doesn't furnish these
things. You meet, all kinds of people at a
place like this, and if you give them a
chance they will submerge "you under their
experiences, for they are either very glad
or very sorrv they came, and they
want to spr.ad their feelings out and
enjoy them. One of these said to me:
Had Inflammation of the Sihi!.
"It's great, these baths. 1 didn't come
here for my health, I only came to find out
if there was anything the matter with me.
The doctor told' me if there was the symp
toms would soon appear. After the first
douche I had sharp pains in all my muscles.
The doctor said it was diflerent Varieties of
rheumatism, and the best varieties there
were, too. After my second bath I had
aches in my bones, and skull and around.
The doctor said it was different vnriet'es of
neuralgia, and the best in the market, any
body would tell me so. I got manr new
kinds of pains out of my third douche.
These were in my joints. The doctor said
it was gout, complicated with heart dis
ease, and encouraged me to go on. Then
we had the fourth douche, and I came out
on a stretcher that time, and fetched with
me one vast, diversified, undulating con
tinental kind of pain, with borizo s to it,
and zones, and parallels of latitude and
meridians of longitude, and isothermal belts,
and variations of the compass oh, every
thing tidy and right up to the latest devel
opments, you know. The doctor said it was
inflammation of the soul, and just the very
thing. Well, I went right on gathering
them in, toothache, liver complaint, soften
ing of the brain, nostalgia, bronchitis, oste
ology, nts, coieoptera, hydrangea, cyclo-
fiedia britannica, delirium tremens, and a
ot of other things that I've got down in my
list that I'll show you, and you can keep it
if you like and tally off the bric-a-brac as
you lay it in.
"The doctor said I was a grand proof of
what these baths could do; said I had come
here as Innocent of disease as a grindstone,
and inside of three weeks these baths had
sluiced out of me every important ailment
known to medical science, along with con
siderable more that were entirely new and
potentable. Why, he wanted to exhibit
me in his bay window."
There seems to be a good many liars this
year.
The Baths Are Taking.
I began to take the baths, and found them
most enjoyable; so enjoyable that if I
hadn't had a disease I would have borrowed
one, just tohave a pretext for going on.
They took "me into a stone-floored basin
about 14 feet sqnare, which had enough
strange-looking pipes and things in it to
make It look like a torture chamber. The
two half naked men seated me on a pine
tool, and kept a couple of warm water jets j
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Mmm
as thick as one'swrist playing upon me
while they kneaded me, stroked me, twisted
me, and applied all the other details of the
scientific massage to me for seven or eight
minutes. Then they- stood me up and
played a powerful jet upon me all around
for another minute. The cool shower bath
came next, and the thing was over. I came
out of the bath house a few minutes late
feeling yodnger and fresher and finer than I
have felt since I was a boy. The spring and
cheer and delight of this exaltntion lasted
three hours, and the same uplifting effect
has followed the 20 douches which I have
taken einte.
After my first douche I went to the chem
ist's on the corne-, as per instruct! ins, and
f
Royal Billboards.
asked for half a glass of Challe water. It
comes from a spring 16 miles from here. It
was furnished to me, but, perceiving that
there was something the matter with it. I
offered to wait till they could get some that
was fresh, but they said it always smelt
that way.
Water of Shady Reputation.
They said that the reason that this was so
much "ranker than the sulphur water of the
bath was that this contained 32 times as
much sulphur as that It may be true, but
In my opinion that water comes from a cem
etery, and not a fresh cemetery, either.
History says that one of the early Roman
Generals lost an army down there some
where. If he could come back now I think
this water would help him find it again.
However, I drank the Challe, and have
drunk it once or twice every day since. I
suppose it is all right, but 1 wish I knew
what was the matter with those Romans.
My first baths developed plenty of pain,
but the subsequent ones removed al-nost all
of it I have got back the use of my arm
these last few days, and I am going away
now.
There are many beautiful drives about
Aix, many interesting places to visit, and
much pleasure to be found in paddling
around the little Lake Bourget on the small
steamers, but the excursion which satisfied
me best was a trip to Annecy and its neigh
borhood. You go to Annecy in nn hour by
rail, through a garden land that has not had
its equal for beauty, perhaps, since Eden;
and certainly not Eden was cultivated aa
this garden is. The charm and loveliness
of the whole region are bewildering.
Picturesque rocks, forest-clothed hills,
slopes richly bright in the cleanest and
greenest grass, fields of grain without fleck
or flaw, dainty of color and as shiny and
shimmery as silk, old gray mansions and
towers half buried in foliage and sunny
eminences, deep chasms with precipitous
walls, and a swift stream of pale blue
water between, with now and then a tum
bling cascade.-'and always noble mountains
in view, with vagrant white clouds curling
about their summits. Mask Twain.
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PAGES 9 TO 20.
E WILLS,
Thomas A. Edison BeHerea
Every Particle of Matter
Is Intelligent,
MAN IS A COMBDfATIOff
Of Conscious Atom3 and Lives as
Long as They Are in Harmony.
DEATH IS A SORT OP REBELLION.
A KoTel View of the Great Problem of Ufa
and Comments on It.
THE VITAL E5EEGT OP ELECTKICm
rWWTTET J-OR THE DISPATCH.1
The remarkable views of Jlr. Thomas A.
Edison, printed below, are supplemented,
by way of illustration, with brief inter,
views from distinguished men whose special
studies have led them to look at life from
an individual standpoint Taken apart,
these opinions may seem to occasionally di
verge; considered collectively, they present
a rema'kably consistent, if many sided,
view of a great problem.
"With regard to Mr. Edison's contribution
to this remarkable symposium comment is
useless. The wizard has his own peculiar
way of discussing any question, and in
doing so he seldom fails to turn a flood of
light into many a dark corner of thought
Although he picks his way through the
many pitfalls of speculation with charac
teristic modesty and caution, who shall say
he makes his bow as a philosopher in vain?
The leading question addressed to Mr. Edi
son was: "What is Life?" His reply iol.
lows:
VIEWS OP THE WIZARD.
Every Particle of MmttPr, He Says, Is Imbued
With Consciousness.
"My mind is not of a speculative or
der," said Mr. Edison; "it is essentially
practical, and when I am making an experi
ment I think only of getting something'
useful, of making electricity pertQrm work.
"I don't soar; I keep down pretty close to
earth. Of coure there are problems in lif
I can't help thinking about, but I don't try
to study them out It is necessary that they
should be studied, aud men fitted
for that work are doing it I am
not fitted for it I leave the theoretical
study of electricity to the physicists, con
fining my work to the practical application
of the force. It is my belief, however, that
every atom of matter is intelligent, deriv
ing energy from the primordial germ. Tha
intelligence of man is, I take it, the sum of
the intelligences of the atoms of which he
is composed. Every atom has an intelli
gent power of selection and is always
striying to get into harmonious relation
with other atoms. The human body, X
think, is maintained in its integrity by tho
intelligent persistence of its atoms, or
rather an agreement between the atoms so
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