kjts- -
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THE PITTSBURG- DISPATCH, SUNDAY, OCTOBER 25, 1S9L
18
WHEN THE SNOW FLIES.
Killlnery and Dress Ideas Trom New Tork,
Paris end Locdoo Two Jlandsome In
door Toilets Cloaks and Jackets Thr
Favorite Fabrics Are Flowered.
The hat shown in the accompanying Illn!
tration may be taken as the standard o
what will be worn
this winter, ac
cording to The
Season. The model
shown is intended
as a visiting hat
for young mar
ried ladies; it is
entirely made of
ne gold cord,
and light enough
to be almost
transparent. The
lace is also gold
softened by hav
TJie Con.ing JlaL ing the edge and
pattern worked out with black silk. The
black velvet strings match the latter, and a
red velvet rose stands out brightly from the
jold crown.
Another idea in millinery, from the same
authority, is illustrated in this column. It
is a toque bonnet with a lace veil. The
tiff strap supporting the front of the flat
toque, made of rows of horse hair and fancy
straw, is covered with crape the same color
and fastened on at the ends. Gold-yellow
and black auriculas trim the whole inner
edge, and arc arranged in bouquets,back and
front It has narrow velvet strings. The
fashionable cilis of cream tulle figured
with white in imitation of old Brussels lace,
and 41Jf inches long and 15J wide. The
tipper part of the cotunie is completed by a
white feather collar made of long greeny
cock's feathers and short black fancy
plumes intermixed with those of the pea
cock, the Cat part being 1i inches long in
front. S1 at the back, and Zi at the sides.
The ruche is. arranged on a neckband with
still foucdition. Uosette bow of corded
sarcenet ribbon hides the fastening hooks.
TWO COW5S FOE KJ-DOOES.
Another of the illustrations "of this de-
fartment shows a beautiful reception toilet,
t is of coral pink
satin duchesse, re
lieved bv dirk
dahlia red vchci.
It consists of a prin
cee o er-drcss ith
short train, worn
over a separate pet
ticoat of silk to
match, which is
faced with satin on
the front and trim
med with two falls
of dahlia - colored
fringe with steel
beads. The over
dress is cut to a
poir.t at the front,
and trimmed on both
A
ffiw
w
y
Bides with a band of
velvet, which starts A Toque Bonnet.
from a shoulder knet and ends in loops and
an end on the skirt: the band on the
left side covers the fastening. A fall of
fringe drops from the civet collar. The
deep cuffs are banded with velvet- Harper's
Bazar assures us that this will make a most
becoming in-door costn-nc.
The fourth fashion illustration is a dinner
toilet trimmed with lace. The material is
black lace and black silk with colored
flowers. The overskirt put over a plain silk
foundation is laid in flat pleats meeting in
front, and at the back two wide box pleats.
The pointed bodice is hooked down the mid
dle and cut out deep at the neck. Inside
the V-shaped opening appear two .stripes of
cream crepe li-se. the double Mcdicis collar
being made partly of the same. The silk
fronts are laid on either side in two pleats
each 1J, inches wide, covered with lace.
Each epaulette requires two pieces of lace
11 inches long and 15J wide, sloped off at
one edge in the length and joined together;
the upper edge being then rounded off,
gathered, and set on to ths sleeve, turning
the lace under.
A CHAFTEB OK CLOAKS.
large round cloaks, very long, are among
the new autumn wraps shown by the Paris
d r c s s m a kers,
eavs a corre
spondent of
Marpcr's Bazar.
These have a vel
vet joke, and are
many of them of
shaggy stuffs,
rough-looking,
though exceed
ingly soft to the
touch. The shape
is more conveni
ent than grace
ful. Other long
cloaks, adjusted
to the form, with
a cape drooping
to tLe waist, arc
quite a conveni
ent to wear, and
more agreeable
to the sight.
These, called
Ilussian cloaks,
arc in lcdisii ;ct
stripes, hue
ch-cks and wate--proof
cloths.
Long cloaks
worn with visit
ing toilettes bv
rijiddle-aged and
o!d Udies are
bdjusted in the
back, and cither
half-fitting or
close - fitting at
the front; the
former for
JTcMpiton ToUet.
Itont figures, the latter for those which have
preserved their sienderness. Velvet or
annnre-rattcnied silks are used for these
handsome cloaks, with a narrow edging of
fur at d a dei"n collar and cufis of the same
fur. Amon; the prettiest of the short l-.alf-wrapphizs
is a rather long jacket of dark
doth, which opens on a sqnnre velvet vest.
The vest is belted in hy a" half-bolt coming
from the wds, the belt being in many cai.es
of lea'h-r will, a yold cr gilded buckle.
This jacket m-y be accompanied by a de
tccla''le care, vS-.ich is buttoned undcr
nea!n the collar whn worn.
There are nunbrrs of short capo wraps or
various k'n.ls, wLich belong to handsome
vinting cortames, but which, when the
weather glows r.vcre, v. ill be supplemented
by a long cloak that "rill be taken off before
entering the doming n.om. One odd little
cape l of dirk-colored vtliet, notched at
the crer cdjrc the points tartly reselling
tbt elbuw; it has a biijh collar, from which
droop labs of rcpn.d nlk at oven intervals '
bttween fie tnhsij eribroi Jerd, and each,
vel.et roin: is finlli'd wiih a Ion? tassel.
sL7iKPii:i r;r bvijicug beds.
"What's tl e reason, says an Gichasge, that
we trust eter.'asrii.gly test in stationary
1 '-AMa
Wmm
jsgs$
f-WJWi. tV'
i I
mi 1
i Mi? 111
'5f!3
beds, when the motion of a hammock is so
conductive to sleep so much easierto
sweep under also, and that's a consideration
to housekeepers. What's the reason that
some gigantic intellect has not evolved an
undulating bed? In mosttropical countries
he hammock is universally used, and in
"ara, South America, this contrivance is
irranged with all the convenience and com
.ort of a modern bed, with mattresses,
springs and over canopies, and hung with
valance arrangements, and boxed up on the
side to the distance of three or four feet to
prevent one's falling out. A cord is at
tached, and by this means the occupant can
swing the affair into a gentle motion. If
there be a dozen people in a family, each
one will have his or her own. They are so
arranged that they can be drawn up on pul
leys out of the way during the day time,
and on being lowered, they are made up
like a regular bed with mattress and all
complete.
Bds are dressed now in two particularly
approved forms, one having a bolster ar
rangement both top and bottom in a way to
permit a lace spread to be tucked under and
then draped over each. A bed to have this
form of arrangement should be of equal
height at the head and foot boards and Be
placed sidewavs against the wall instead of
vertical. A clever arrangement of abed is
permitted when it can be located in a cor
ner. A tent-like canopy runs out from the
angle of ceiling and walls and draped down.
Pillow shams are quite out of style; for
everything now is Prench or English and
goes'back 100 vears for its form and of
course pillow shams did not worry folks in
those days.
KOTIOSS fkom losdos;
It does not matter in the least about a
dress being ugly if only it is sufficiently
outre to oe
some thing
quite out of
the common. I
saw an extraor
dinary teagown
the other day,
says Miss Man
tiiini in PaU
M all BtidqcL.
The bodice was
of black bro
cade, made like
n Chinaman's
jacket and
elaborately
trimmed with
gold braid. It
lifted the nguro
quite loosely,
and was worn
over a slip of
china-blue silk
with blouse
sleeves. The
skirt was also
made of blue
silk. I was
told that nearly
Dinner ToUeL
every lady to whom it had been shown had
ordered a copy of it for her own wear.
Short women will abominate the winter
Jackets. The new models that are coming
over from Berlin 8re rather more than
three-quarters length, and the majority
have tall, stiff collars, which are too absurd
fir anything. Braiding is likely to be a
more favorite trimming than fnr. fUhe
braid is applied in manT different ways.
Only the basque, collar and cuffs of some
iackets are trimmed, while others are
braided all over. The smartest jackets ara
braided in military style.
Dressing gowns are rather more shapely
than they used to be. The favorite ma
terial is colored flannel old rose, pink,
blue, heliotrope gray or terra cotta, pat
terned with flowers or stripes in contrasting
shade). Some of the newest flannels are
made in Paisley shawl patterns.
FABRICS FOK WIXTEB WEAK.
Among the new winter fabrics are cloths
strewn with floners woven in the fabric"
These are more novel than pretty, and can
not compare with the beautiful plain cloths,
glossy as satin. There are some handsome
vehety shaded stuffs and other fabrics
which are woven in pleats or puffs, the lat
ter are best used in small quantities, as for
yokes, plastrons or vests. Plain fabrics are
still preferred to all these novelties. Many
skirts are bias, not only in the back, but at
the front also. With these skirts the cor
sage is cut bias, too, without darts, but fully
defining the contour. The basque is cut
very short and the fronts are notched, with
a large puff of silk of a contrasting color at
the middle between the notches. All skirts
for demi-toilette, , even those for day calls,
are made with a short train The skirt has
frequently two ot three narrow ruffles of the
material around the bottom. The corsage
may be without a basque and attached to the
skirt under a belt of ribbon folded or
twisted.
The princesse form predominates for
dressy toilettes. On some of the new
dresses, which are iust a trifle odd. withnnl
1 beingVio eccentric, there are color con
I trasts. Thus on a dark blue or heliotrope
cloth or camel's hair there is a deep band of
yellow on the skirt and pipings of the same
at all the edges. Dark red is used on grsy-
ish tints and black on gray.
IEXNY IIKD AND PAYNE.
How the Singer raid aTrlbnto to the Author
of Heme Sneet Home.
Kew England Magazine.
Ko American poet ever received a more
enviable compliment than one paid to John
Howard Payne by Jenny Lind on his last
visit to his native land. It was in the great
National Hall in the city of "Washington,
where the most distinguished audience that
had ever been seen in the capital of the re
public was assembled. The matchless singer
entranced the vast throng with her most
exquisite melodies. "Casta Diva," the
"Flute Song," the "Bird Song." and the
"Greeting to America."
But the great feature of the occasion
seemed to be an act of inspiration. The
singer suddenlv turned her face toward that
part of the auditorium where John Howard
Payne was sitting, and sang "Home Sweet
Home' with such pathos and power that a
whirlwind of excitement and enthusiasm
swept through the vast andience. Webster
himself lott all self-control, and one might
readily imagine that Pavne thrilled with
rapture ot this unexpected and magnificent
rendition of his own immortal lyric
Mexican Governors to Loss Their Heads.
Crrr of Mexico, October 24. A promi
nent member of Congress says that Presi
dent Diaz will soon make some important
changes in the Governors of the State, as he
is very much dissatisfied with the way
iiungs are going on. in Uampeche tne
financial condition of the State is very bad,
and Pan .Luis Potosi finds it quite difficult
to pay tLe interest on the State debt, which
is increasing daily.
Sabhatarians Appeal to Congress.
NewYose, Oct 2i The Presbyterian
Synod to-day adopted a resolution urging
Congress not to lend Chicago ?0,000,000 tor
World's Fair purposes unless it was agreed
that the Fair should be closed oa Sunday.
V i
EIGffMG A WOMAN.
Senator Sherman's Two Column Blast
of Mrs. Emery's Doctrines.
IT IS A VICTORY FOR THE SEX.
Ko TonM Koif That the Women Are la
Politics and in It to Stay.
MISTAKES OP FEMALE WAGE WOEKEES
rwErrTEX fob toe dispatch.
One of the surprises of the presentpolitical
campaign is that Senator Sherman should
have devoted time and thought to answer a
pamphlet written by a radical woman upon
the subject of "The Seven Financial Con
spiracies Which Have Enslaved the Ameri
can People" To the extent of almost two
columns the great statesman and prince or
finance, devotes himself to upsetting the
"wild stories" of this unknown writer who
weara peticoats and promulgates "gloomy
prophecies" and publishes the exaggera
tions of a morbid fancy.
Mrs. & E. V. Emery, the author of this
pamphlet, is not known in Pittsburg as a
writer. Her pamphlet has not, so far as I
know, been published here. Its points and
charges are to be Inferred from the Sena
tor's reply. This would seem to indicate
that Mrs. Emrey is a "Greenbacker" hold
ing extreme views, and that her "palpable
falsehoods" are so presented as to deceive
the unwary and the ignorant, and that her
pernicious doctrine is preached in such
fashion as to influence men who are not In
telligent enough to comprehend the sub
ject and lead them aw3y trom the Repub
lican faith and fold. But be that as it mav,
or go Ohio as it will in the election, the
fact is to be noted that women are decidedly
in politics.
HOW" THE TIMES HATE CHAHGETX
The time was when what a woman said
was a matter of but little moment, when it
sufficed to silence her to tell her to "get
thee to a nunnery," or to retire to tho
kitchen, keep mum, and confine her
thimbleful of brains to subjects she could
comprehend. The time was when a woman's
intellectual capacity was so underrated
that to get an unbiased hearing she dis
guised her genius under a man's name. The
ime was and now is with some when the
philosophers advocated ignorance for
women. Laboulaye distinctly adviseB mod
erate Ignorance for women on the score that
"our empire is at an end when man is found
out" Voltaire advocated the old-fashioned
feminine training for women on the
ground that ignorant women are most
easily led. Schopenhauer, with all theas
snmption of a superior, said that "girls
should be brought up to habits of domes
ticity and servility."
But these times have gone by. Here and
there are to be found a few stragglers in the
rear who attempt to preach the same old
moldy doctrine of inferiority and subservi
ency for women. A few of these showed
up at the Ecumenical Council of the Meth
odists last week, but the drift of sentiment
was on the progressive Bide. Of course,
Brother Buckleybobbed np in opposition to
the women, but it will ot be long before he
gets his quietus at the hands of "the
sisters. '
Ex-Senator Ingalls, it willbe remembered,
made a speech two or three years ago in
which he belittled and insulted women, in
wh ch he ridiculed their pretensions to polit
ical equality, and rung the changes upon
all the platitudes of the angel in the houses
who must still be kept down and who may
work, and pray and sing hymns, bnt must
not vote. How he misjudged the women of
Kansas is shown by the fact that by that
speech he rung his own political death
knelL During the campaign, having found
out his mistake, he endeavored to conciliate
the women with flattery, but his compli
ments fell upon stony ground, and now ills
harp is hung upon the willows.
WOMES A2fD THE TAEIFB".
The "tidal wave,"' which engulfed the
Republican party in some of its strong
holds last fall, was blamed upon the women
and their knowledge of the McKinley bill.
Whether there be any truth in this
charge or not, it looks as if they proposed
to have a finger in the present pie at all
hazards. A copy of Ths Working Woman,
published at Washington, has come to hand
breathing out threatenings and slaughter to
the present party in power, and showing up
its short-comings in no mealy-mouthed
style. This paper is published every week,
as announced, under the auspices ot the
Woman's National Industrial League. If
this paper represents the views of working
women, it s"hows such spirit of discontent,
such impatience of injustice, such keen
6ense of wrong under discrimination and
oppression as may well make any politician
quake in his shoes, who has any weak point
in his moral make-up, or who can in any
way be held responsible for the grievances
they endure.
Great credit is given in this paper to the
Democrats because they demanded in Con
gress a recognition and representation of
industrial women on the Board of Women
managers of the World's Fair at Chicago.
No one, they say, worked harder to this end
than Koswell P. Flower, the present Demo
cratic candidate for the Governorship of
New York. Bnt while Springer, of Illinois,
Wilson, of West Virginia, Holman, of In
diana, and McAdoo, of New Jersey, ably
seconded Flower and marked themselves as
the champions of the women workers, the
Republicans, they assert, saw to it that the
"ladies" got the offices and the salaries.
SINCERITY OP PARTY CLAIMS.
Notwithstanding this story of the chiv
alry of the Democracy as to working
women, it is altogether likely that if, like
the Rev. Mr. Slack, in the Ecumenical
Council, these Senators had invited any
body who had a higher estimate of working
women than they had to show his face, the
whole body of Republicans would have
stood straight up, as did the Methodist
brethren, who thus showed their doubt of
the sincerity of Brother Slack in his parade
of flattery for women, while belittling
their ability and upholding their subjec
tion. It is nothing new for the Republican
party to "go back" upon its promises to
women, but it is certainly amazing to learn
that the Democracy upheld their cause
Flower, it is announced, has alwavs voted
npon the side of the women in the measures
they desired in New York State, and has
therefore a warm place in their good graces.
tie may find his record in this respect a
point in his favor on election day.
The tariff, as it concerns the interests of
working women, finds large mention in this
organ of industry. McKinley catches it
all around. He is held responsible lor the
duty which it is alleged makes the working
woman's cloth cloak cost 40 per cent more,
while cloak maker's wages have been" cut
down GO per cent. He is held responsible
for the fact that, while the duty on linen
thread has been advanced from 40 to 50 per
cent and on cheaper grades from 75 to 100
er cent, yet the manufacturers of this
ighly protected industry have reduced the
wages of their women workers 10 percent.
A CHATTEB ON EGGS.
To McKinlev. they say, is due the fact
hat the working woman who used to eat
eggs tor ner breaiuast can now only anord
to have one, since the tariff on eggs has
almost doubled their price Moreover with
reduced wages, she can", probably hereafter
ha e none This duty, ' says the Working
Woman, docs not benefit the farmer; it is
the middle man who rakes in the profits
and revels in the benefits of protected eggs.
The McKinley bill, they urge, does not
keen uo the wases of women, since 1.800
! girls in the hat business at Danbury, Crnn.,
art striking against a cut ot l) per cent in
wagei. They do not see the benefit of the
McKinley bill which has raised the duty on
lace from 30 to GO per cent while the manu
facturers of laces have reduced the wages of
their women workers from 10 to 20 per cent
The dntv on silt. Kav the silk workers of
-j&tterson, N. J., is GO per cent, and yet' the j
wages of the women in the factories have
gone down in a few years from 525 to 9 a
week. In five of the large tailor shops of
New York the wages of the women were
recently reduced CO per cent. All
who demurred were discharged. Lots of
tariff, but no protection, say these women.
Women's wages in the barb wire mills of
Trenton, N. J., were cut from 12 to 20 per
cent in the last month. This is the sort of
"protection" that women do not want The
same paper tells us of 60 women who went
out on a strike against a reduction of 20 per
cent on their wages at Roebling's wire net
ting factory in Trenton. The girls have no
objection to -'protection," but they don't
like this way of working it
ll'KIHXEY SUFFERS FOB ATI..
-Poor McKinley, with this army of women
workers, seems to have been picked out
to bear the whole onus of the miserable
wages of working women in factories
and mills and stores. The workers seem to
argue that this tariff bill should keep up
thejr wages and protect them from all ad
versity and misfortune Th'ey do not seem
to perceive, or to understand that tariff or
no tariff, work is just worth what it can be
got for, and no employer pays more This
Working Woman's Journal draws a very
pathetic picture of the women who can only
get 53 SO per week for their work, while
their board costs H CO. It sets forth that
there are 10,000 women behind the counters
in New York City whose wages are only
from S3 50 to 54 50 per week, while the rent
of a little hall bedroom is from 53 to 55 a
week.
But it omits to say that these "starving
prices" are a matter of individual choice,
and not an effect of the McKinley bill or
lack of "protection." If the McKinley
bill were repealed, or McKinley were de
feated, the wages of women would not go
up as long as 50 can be found to take the
place of one who steps down and out A
loud, long wail of woe goes up from the
hundreds of thousands of sewing women all
over the land. The world is called upon in
this journal "to look at these women and
behold the martyrdom of an agonizing liv
ing death."
Yet the fact remains that if housekeepers
should go down tho line and offer $3 a week
and board for help, "the garret and tho
crust" would be preferred. The utter folly
ofthistalkis seen when it is known that
each of those poverty-stricken women could
have a good home, good board and $3 a
week wages, if not more, if they would con
descend to cook or do chamber work.
A sarcastic Frenchman writing upon this
country said that Americans hid "two
amusements politics for the men and re
ligion for the women," but If he "were hero
now he would find American women taking
art in politics, not as an amusement, but
i dead earnest Bessie Bbamble.
WRECKED BY A MIRAGE.
XTBST ADD ONLY VOYAGE OF
BAIJKENTINE STEADFAST.
IHE
Cast on the Coral Beets of St Croix Only
a Few Dollars of a Taluable Ontflt
Saved An Optical Delusion Causes the
Disaster.
Philadelphia, Oct 24. Special A
mirago seen in the Carribean Sea was the
cause of the total loss of the new American
barkentine Steadfast, while bound from
Port of Spain to Philadelphia with a cargo
of street paving asphalt She'was wrecked
several weeks ago, but the crew has only
recently reached New York on their way
home from the Island of St Crciz, the scene
of the disaster. Only a few dollars were
saved from the entire outfit of this complete
and valuable craft, which had never before
made a voyage, and which cost her owners
upward of 510,000.
When the Steadfast sighted the lofty
peaks of St Croix the atmosphere assumed
a peculiar light color, and it became im
possible detect the sky from the islands,
everything assuming a similar shads and
color resembling the cirro-stratus clouds,
hiding the entire lower portion of tho
island, while the peaks and mountain tops
appeared to be 20 miles away. The tops of
the mountains seemed to be inverted the
tall cocoanuts appearing to grow from sky
to the earth, and the sugar-grinding mills
were pouring their smoke downward and
the workmen working upside down.
The Steadfast was kept under easy sail and
perfect control. Everything went well until
a grinding sound was heard and a sudden
tremor struck the ship, throwing all hands
on their feet The vessel crashed over.the
reefs and was soon fast on the rocky shore,
where her wreck still remains. An optical
delusion had caused the total loss of the
vessel, and that which made the island ap
pear 20 miles distant was really a mirage in
one of itsmany shapes, and the vessel wasat
no time more than two miles from the shore.
In a few hours after the shin struck the
atmosphere cleared and the sun shone hot
as only the sun can shine in the tropics.
The wreck was complete and the cargo bc
yondhope of saving. There was no sea
running at the time, and there would have
been no difficulty to save the vessel had she
not been driven by her momentum so far
upon the rocks that it was impossible to
again reach deep water. The Steadfast and
cargo were worth $50,000.
WOEKINO OVER OLD CLOTHES.
The Invention of Fhodily Processes and the
Character of the Product
St Lotus Post-Dispatch.
In its widest sense "shoddy" means all
fibrous materials of animal origin, which
having been once manufactured in eloths
or felt are recovered from this state and re
stored to a fibrous condition fit for remanu
facture. This revamped fiber is known in
three varieties, "shoddy proper," mungo
and carbonized wool or wool extracts. For
the invention of the first the world must
thank a Hebrew second-hand dealer in Lon
don. It was during Wellington's campaigns
in Spam, when the supply of Spanish wools
drove wool to a great price. The quick wit
of the old clothesman perceived that it would
be a paying speculation to tear np old blan
kets and white flannels by curry-combs and
mix the product with the little fresh wool
that could be obtained. This was done, and
these "doctored" bales realized a handsome
profit for he inventive genius. A small
Machine for Tearing Up Old Clothes.
weaver of Yorkshire named Benjamin Law
discovered the secret and began the manu
facture on a large scale. Shoddy "proper"
ismade only from "softs," that is, annulled
fabrics, like old blankets.flannels and worn
out hosiery, which can be easily torn to
pieces by curry-combs. However, the crafty
Law or his partner, Parr, extended the pro
cess to "hard" rags or milled goods, work
ing up the refuse and snippings of tailor
shops info material for new garments.
Quite a complicated machine had to be
evolved before the scheme was successful,
and the new product received its name
"mungo" from the frequent ejaculation
of Parr, in Yorkshire dialect, that" in
spite of all difficulties "it mun' go." How
ever, there was a large class of cloths called
"union goods," where the warp is of cotton
and the weft of wool, which could not ba
utilized until a canny ship captain Corbett
got the idea of destroying the cotton threads
bv weak sulphuric acid in a lead-lined va t
The acid inflicted little apparent damage on
the wool, which became known as "carbon
ized wool" or "extract." However it de
stroyed its felting properties and rendered
it extremely brittle, a tact that our shoddy
covered soldiers discovered to their sorrow
when thep put their garments to any severe
strain. It forms a large proportion of the
cloth in all "cheap and nasty" clothing, but
it is really useful for "stuffing" in the car-
nagc-uuuuiuj;, uauaiery ana npnoisiericg
trades.
TAEIETY H FOODS.
Kola Huts, Paragnay Matfrand Every
Known Material la Needed.
HO TWOMEALS SHOULD BE ALIKE.
The Perfection of Genius Is Dependent on
, Bonnteons Feeding.
SCHOOL GIELS AND FBTJIT CAKE
tWIUTTEK FOB Tint DISPATCH.
Hardly more than a third of tho products
available for food are known to civilized
nations, and the, most valuable ones are yet
to be introduced. The food stimulants used
by savages over three parts of the globe are
hardly known by name. The kola nut,
which" Is eaten by natives from Cochin
China, India, Middle Africa and Zanzibar,
to French lend Dutch Guiana, Dominique
and the Brazils, has just begun to be used
as a medicine in our pharmacy.
It is a product of equatorial Africa,
borne by trees yielding over a hundred
weight of nuts yearly, for which Sierra
Leone is the chief market The dried and
powdered nut is ohewed by native tribes to
stay hunger, enable them to bear fatigue on
long marches, and as an accompaniment
enhancing the flavor of other food. Physi
cians find it beneficial in heart disease and
as a nutriment in wasting disorders like
consumption and diarrhoeas. It is a notable
cure for drunkenness, the negroes eating it
after a debauch to prepare them for work
next day, a property which must lead to its
immediate introduction by contractors and
employers generally. One variety of kola
nut is a specific for'cold in the head, which
a few seed taken in a day disperses entirely.
It seems to have the stavme rowers of
cocoa without its deadly reaction and par
alyzing after effect
TWO 2TEW TABLE STIMtTLANTS.
As a valued addition to our table drinks
it would be desirable to alternate tea with
the Paraguay mate, and in time of exertion
to vary Java coffee with guarana, which
has three or four times as much caffeine, or
the supporting, cocoalike beverage from
kola, especially in summer, when food is
unwelcome. It is not 150 years since coffee
was as strange a drink as either of
these new stimulants.
Who has not tired of the limited range of
the family table, tiresome to the cook as to
those who sit atjneat? Tho human being
demands variety in food, and the lower ani-
I mals are the better tor change ot diet, ana
help themselves to it, even to lunching off
an entire fruit garden, if they can break in.
I think it is Sir Henry Thompson, tho first
English writer on food, who says that no
dish should appear on (he table twice in
three days, the system demanding at least
such change for appetite an ' nutrition. This
does away with the dinner of roast beef and
stewed tomatoes 300 days in a year.allowing
poultry for Sundays and holidays, an order
which is so convenient for housekeepers
with a taste for fancy work rather than for
looking after the health of their families.
It is no wonder appetite palls on such same
ness and growing girls fall back on cake and
candy. Naturally they result in such
nerveless, forceless creatures as Miss Porter
describes from long acquaintance in a late
Forunu
THE TKOtTBLE -WITH SCHOOL GIBLS.
"It is the exception rather than the rule
that half the pupils are in a physical con
dition to endure the mild routine even of a
homo school. Nervousness, backache,
weakness, loss of appetite follow upon the
realization that school means work. A
hard lesson to be mastered lays a girl low
with headache or dissolves her in floods of
tears. Tears, indeed, especially the first
part of the year are of daily downfall. Tears
bedew knotty problems, tears greet the re
fusal to allow boxes of candy, tear's fall
copiously when overshoes are insisted upon
and when short fur capes are declared insuf
ficient covering for zero weather. Moreover,
let the fin run a little too high or a mis
chievous boy tap on the windows in the
evening, or a mouse suddenly appearand
only a dose of plain English, and the va
lerian bottle prevent an epidemic of hys
terici."" "It is no simple task," says this keen
sighted woman, "to explain this too pre
valent physical weakness of the private
school girl;" and goes on to enumerate a
few facts, which explain he case, among
them ''sitting over the register and feeding
nn randf mtrnntr nnfTen nnH pair.
If she does not feel like eating bread and
beefsteak she must be given pickles and fruit
caKe."
Another teacher sayst "Girls seem to ma
to have' too many imaginary ills or, rather,
they succumb to the smallest ache. A
slight headache is enough to make them give
up every duty of the day. I think there is
more laziness than ill health in the world."
BAD FOOD IS THE CAUSE.
When clevr, cultivated women tell such
plain truths about subjects they know best,
improvement is at hand. But why is this
languor and laziness the rule, this incapabil
ity of bearing the slightest strain of effort
or cross of wiL? Go a step further into the
reasons of things and you will find a lack of
physical stamina resulting from want of
varied and well cooked food. The sodden
beefsteak, half raw in the middle and burned
at the edges, veined with gristle and studded
with bone, is more fit for a dog's breakfast
than a girl's, and the dog wonld utterly re
fuse and turn his tail up at the'bread which
is proposed to complete her fare.
It is no wonder she wants fruit cake,
which is more wholesome and nourishing
than modern bread, while the pickles pre
vent her from succumbing to nausea and
headache, with a bilious attack every six
weeks. Her system craves fruit cake for
want of savory meats and delicious fruits,
and pickles supply in a sort the want of the
salad and vegetables. Fruit cake is highly
tasteful and concentrated nutrition, and if
made as it should be, with good butter and
no more spice than the bakers allow, it is
not bad nutrition. Many good housekeepers
make their fruit cake of graham flour to
look dark and rich, and so made, with only
cake enough to hold the fruit together, it is
better food than half the bread that goes on
faniily tables. Feed ono girl wholly on
bread and another on fruit cake for weeks
and you would find the cake eater keep her
j health and strength and longer of the two.
iiut neither bread nor cake can replace
other food. That food invitingly cooked
we do not get
BEEAKFAST SHOULD SSIELL GOOD.
It would not be difficult to make out a
bill of fare which would "tempt even young
women away from cake and candy. You
want a breakfast that smells good enough to
take people out of their beds to eat it I
don't know anything that draws one away
from morning dreams so pleasantly as the
aromaot nign ored couee, gently insinu
ating itself in delicate, distant breaths in
your chamber and mingling with tho fames
ot sleep, and pernaps a very fine, faint, ac
ceptable odor of fragrant broils and cakes
after it, such as you get in generous country
houses sometimes.
Flowers are very well in their way, but
experience makes one rather suspicions of
flowers on the breakfast table until you
know what else there is on it When you
have real w ork to do in the world, noth'ing
grows quite so interesting as the question of
food to work upon. It you desire ypur
flowers, your toilet, your conversation ap
preciated, be sure the foundation the food
is varied, ample, satisfying. Here I draw
from my English receipt book a memoran
dum penciled years ago of things for break
fast real things in a real family, not over
well to do, but knowing how to make the
most of their supplies.
FOE THE SIOENINO MEAL.
Farina, wlieatcncrits.Dearl homlnv.samn.
iiesn or iriea mown: boiled
nee or com
mush alwHys fried light brown. Dry toast,
cream and egg toast, corn muffins, eraham
mufflns, aueen fritters, corn biead (like
poundcake, it was), brown biscuits, corn
or wlieatmeal criadle cakes, with niaole
syrup, honey .or pear syrup, Adiiondack
panoakes best of all things done on grid
dles. Beefsteak, veal ana mutton chops,
venison steak in season, salmon steak,
fresh flsh, flab cakes, oyster fritters, oyster
bash, fish with ci earn parsley, tomato and
bash omelets, lamb tenderloins, - kidneys
with sauce, calves' trains with tomatoed,
giblet toast, Oxford sausage (chopped beef,
with breadcrumbs and sweet herbs), turkoy
or chicken hash, potted squirrels; upple,
peach or quince butter: wild blackberry
Jam, baked peais and apples in Jelly; coffee,
cocoa, chocolate, with cinnamon or vanilla
flavor. Dandelion cotTee, barley water,
with lemon and honey. Sometimes people
oSX their feed with a cold want something
of tho sort for a lizht drink.
I should like to put a girl down at a Sun
day morning breakfast selected from that
list, cooked as it used to be in that family,
and see if she could not cat her share with
out coaxing. People eeldom minced at
that table. For one thing, there always ap
peared to be enough and to spare, and" then
things so invitingly' said, "Try us," by
looks and odors that visitors ended by
apologizing for their good appetites. The
housekeeping was not extravagant, seeing
expenses were rigidly kept at 51 25 a week:
as the cost of food for each person.
NO TALSE FEELING Off POSITIOS".
Eut there were no servants to waste; only
one skilful girl, who worked hand and
glove with her employer's ideas, and that
employer put as much study into her house
keeping a3 her stories which paid for it. She
was not above doin her own marketing in
the city, a dozen miles distant, even when
the strict economies of tho week obliged her
to carry her own basket Here I pause, for
the imaginations of all right minded, gen
teel persons refuse to contemplate the spec
tacle of an educated woman descended from
five generations ot scholarly gentle folk
carrying her marketing. At least they
cannot comprehend it
I do not believe any fine talent in woman
was ever evolved except from a child well
fed into its later youth. It has never been
pointed out in connection with the brill
iancy of the Beechers that their mothers
were eminent as housekeepers or that the
Mendelssohns' homo was a center of a gen
erous hospitality and well spread table
pursue the intimation further as you will.
Great, ponderons, learned minds we may
have out of meager childhood, but the fine
fleur of genius, the alertness, the electric
color and sparkle, have their -earthly origin
in fine and plenteous feeding of body as
well as mind. Feeding alone will not evolve
the talent, but the education without food
calls out the winged thing from the chry
salis only to see its bright wing? flash and
die. Shirley Dabe,
FADS IN DECORATIONS.
Poker TTorfa Has Assumed Alarming Pro
portionsAn Imposing Way to Display
Coats-of-Arms Trimming Up Two Far
Ion Curtain Notions.
FHOJt THE C7BOLSTZSES.
Fads are queer things. "We have them in
decoration more than in any other field of
fancy. Away back in the time of James I.
it was a fad to embroider some parts of a
design in real hair. It added an additional
touch of sentiment to a sofa cushion if a
fleu de lis or clover leaf was brought out in
some of Mike's auburn whiskers. It was as
great a "go" in those days as macrame cord
work was 15 years ago. Sometimes por
traits were done with the hair part brought
out in the actual bona fide, real and truly
article.
Now the latest thing is the application of
the principles of poker work, "We all
know what poker work is; it is sketching
with a red-hot poker on soft wood. The
scheme now is to havo some design
printed or stamped, or sketched on
the wood by an artist, and then
traced with the poker tools, which are
no longer simple pokeri, but complicated.
Some of these tools are provided with rake
like points, and these, when heated redhot,
are run over the face of a sketch lightly and
crossed and recrossed so as to make a
scorched background. Other tools have
other shapes.
Five o'clock tea furniture is getting to be
a fad. They are little crouchy-way-down-uear-the-floor
kinds of furniture, and usually
of plaited straw or some other light and
fanciful cane material. Then here's another
fad, which folks who have been hanging up
their coat-of-arms in frames on the wall will
be given an opportunity to adopt It is
simply the arrangement of an heraldic ban
ner suspended trom an upright, which is
usually placed at the back of a divan. It
has a mediaeval look that is awfully crush
ing and gives a strut to things generally.
A very charming room is now being
dressed in Philadelphia two parlors en
suite, ten feet high. The walls are covered
with a moire antique of heavy ribbed silken
texture in a soft green interspersed with
threads of gold faintly discernible. The
frieze is arranged in a cove, and is pf a de
lightfully harmonizing rose'tmt of the same
fabric as the walls, relieved, however, by
the application of colonial details, hand
embroidered, appliqued and of soft tints.
The ceilings are cream moire antique and
designed as in the freize with colonial de
tails; but these details are daintily adjusted
in plaster instead of embroidery, and stand
out in gold, instead of the colorings which
the frieze shows. The room is simply ex
quisite a hackneyed term, but properly
used in this case.
It is now proper to arrange a drapery
scheme back of a chiffonier, wardrobe or
dressing stand. "We have always put up
splashers with little red stitched mottoes
and impossible daisies back of the wash
basin with a view to protect the walls, and
with this same object in view the idea is
dignified by more serious treatment There
have been so many calls for silks for fire
screens that now they are made fireproof,
non-combustible. Lace curtains are also
treated ina way that defies the venomous
gas jet. Thevold-fashioned curtain pole is
no longer tlje only nay of putting up a
drapery. A man in Brooklyn has arranged
a scheme whereby papier mache or metallic
cupids and birds are affixed to a cornice.
Their hands or claws are provided with
cleverly 'concealed hooks, and ' when the
curtains are attached thereto they are ap
parently held naturally. This docs away
with all rings.
JUuslo nnd Perfumery.
Dr. Plesse, in his book, "The Art of Per
fumery," compares the gamut of odors with
sounds produced by notes of music. An
illustration shows what is a harmony and
what is a discord of smells.- .
Vwrt tL'tlW lffli" lifter
uli i
- rTTIilt ai . . .
The Coai-of-Arms Fad.
LEARMG 11 CLUBS.
Far-Reaching Eesnlts of the Gregar
ious Tendency of Women.
THE SIGNATURE OP THE WIDOW.
Contributions of Inventive Genius to
Art of Housekeeping.
the
SOME MXOE PACTS AND PAKCIE3
rWRlrTEN FOB THE DISPATCH.!
The eagerness and enthusiasm which the
different women clut3 are showing in their
opening meetings, give further evidence of
the power these organizations are becom
ing. The club has been happily called by
somebody the "university of, tho middle
aged woman." Its benefits, not alone to this
class, but to women above and below mid
dle age as well, are almost incalculable.
The leaven of tho larger cities is spreading
throughout the towns and villages of the
country with the result that these clubs are
springing up everywhere.
In point of fact, a "club" feeling has
always prevailed among women, only they
did not call it by that name. The church
sociable and the sewing society were the ..
clubs of other days. If man is gregarious,
woman is ten times more so. She dearly
loves to "get together" and that she "gets
together nowadays to talk over some
thing more than Bridzet's stuniditv. or the
baby's teething is largely owing to the
wide increase of the woman's club.
It should not be gathered, however, that
practical home questions are left out of the
present club discussions. On the contrary,
a list of papers read before one flourishing
New York club last winter included the fol
lowing subjects, taken at random: "Home
Hygiene," "Tho Intellectuality of Music,"
"French Painting" and "Fretting." Theso
clubs are conducted, mest of them, on very
strict parliamentary rules. Vassar girls
make the best presiding officers, their prac
tice during th'iir college course giving them
familiarity wiih the duties of the position.
At a olub breakfast last spring, Mrs. Kate
Upson Clark, who is not by tho way a
Vassar graduate, presided over a gathering
of 85 ladies, and kept the interest of the
assembly in a wav that, according to a male
reporter in a prominent paper next day,
"many a man might have envied."
The club is teaching women much
not the least of its lessons are those
of promptness and brevity. And by
way of suggestion to clubs started
or about to be started in small communities,
it is an excellent idea to get some of the
larger, well-established clubs to send on
their papers for a reading. There is in a
Jersey suburb of New York such a club
called the Sparrow which feeds upon these
metropolitan crumbs, rich enough feasting
it is, too, until the infant club is able to set
out its own banquet
a housekeeper who purchased her outfit of
kitchen utensils fifteen or twenty years ago
and merely replaced articles since would be
amazed to enter the well-stocked housefur
nishing shop of today. There would be
dozens and dozens of things whose use she
could not fathom without explanation, from
the flat, grooved wooden paddles to make
individual butter ball and the tiny steel cup
with sharp edges, which fitted to a handle,
is.a ball cutter to take out from the raw po
tato the tiny spheres that boiled tender are
served with the fish, all the way up to the
elaborate roasting pans, huge and expensive,
with their perforated covers, thai the mod
ern cook thinks she can not properly roast
her fowls and joints without One of
the mos recent innovations are the little
stone cups, which are an importation
from English kitchens. They are for muf
fins, popovers, gems and other similar
breakfast cakes,and are said by professional
cooks to much enhance the lightness and
delicacies of thesa goodies. Salad bowls
with knife and fork to match with china
handles are also shown in thi3 ware in finer
finish and in blue and gray shades, as well
as the plaiaexiirown.
The cobweb party is by no means a nov
elty, but this autumn had added one or two
freshening features to the familiar scheme.
The "web" is much prettier and more effect
ive when strung through a suite of rooms,
and should be made of many colored twine.
One of these parties held recently had the
web of fine gray silken cord that was curi
ously like the genuine strands of the spiders
spinning, and to heighten the resemblance,
at intervals throughout its maze, gigan
tio green and gold spiders, such
as are found at most Japan
ese stores, were entancled. A prettier
notion was that of interweaving chrysan
themums of a rich yellow tint among the
frey strands, which was the idea of a second
ostess. Four prizes are considered suffi
cient, and a booby prize is attached to a
cord which leads the one who grasps it
straight to its end, without care or skill.
The custom that widows, on becoming
such, shall resnme their christian name is
no longer an imperative one, at least soci
ally. In business documents the widow of
John Smith is Mrs. Mary Smith, but she
may still, if it is her pleasure, haye her
cards engraved Mrs. John Smith. Many
widows find the relinquishing of the name
they have long and proudly borne an added
trial; it is a graceful office on the part of
society that they are thus permitted to
retain it If .there be a married
son called by his father's name
he would naturally cease to be Jr. on his
father's death, and his wife's cards would,
therefore, be the same as those of her
mother-in-law. To prevent confusion in
such case the elder lady usually places Sr.
after her name.
-c
The pretty little toques of cloth to match
ths costume and velvet puffs, which
later will be fur bands, aro used with and
without strings to tie beneath the .chin.
"Women who have passed their first yonth
usually choose the strings, as one (if the in
dications of the loss of youthful fresh
ness and plumpness is the hollow
beneath the ear, which a narrow
tie judiciously conceals. The harness
straps so-called,are much used where velvet
The Universal Report
from Every Section
A letter just received from a St. Paul merchant says:
"The sales of Dr. Price's Delicious Flavoring Ex
tracts have doubled within the past three months, and
the demand is constantly increasing." This is account
ed for' by the fact that Dr. Price's flavors are just as
represented free from poisonous oils and ethers, are
true to nature, made from the finest fruits, of delicate
taste, and of the greatest strength attainable. The
housewife who uses them once will never pnrchase
the cheap substitutes.
ties are desired. Eibbon velvet rolls after
little tying, and ths use of the straight
bands held together on each side with jew
eled pins is preferable. The velvet is cut
into three pieces, leaving one side perma
nently pinned.
o
A beautifuTwhite and gold banqnet lamp
ha3 its huge shade entirely of white India
siik, upon wnicn wtuto sUK cninon was
gathered very f ulL A full chiffon ruffle, tho
edge of which was silk embroidered, formed
the fringe, and jabots of chiffon went up
each rib of the umbrella-shaped frame. The
efiect was very beautiful. The liking for and
indulgence in these'expensivc trifles does not
abate. Fortunes almost have been invested
in them,as high as 540 sometimes being paid
for a single shide, while in a few instances
where real lace is used that price has
been doubled and trebled. The different
woman's exchanges find shade makings
steady aud profitable branch of the busi
ness. Most of the frames come from ona
stuffy little shop in Sixth avenue, into
which it is at times difficult to get Tha
base frame costs SI 25 and upward to 52 50
according to size and elaborateness, and
upon this foundation structures of varying
expense may be reared. A suggestion in
"flouncing" a shade is to cut the material
alongthe outside, leaving the selvedge for
a finish. The center may then be used
plain. A lovely shade simple to make was
of rose pink silk with silk ruffles, pinked on
the edge in deep trefoil points and put on
very fulL
o
The little bouillon sets for individual usa
are particularly pretty gifts for an invalid.
An oval platter of fine china with trailing
sprays of wild honeysuckle holds the cup
with its double handles and cover, a salt
dish and pepper box and a rack for dry
toast or wafei Evervthinf fa of china.
and the decoration is all to match.
Some fashionable women affect sueda
gloves on which their initials or crests ara
embroidered. Brown, tan and even black
gloves show tho embroidery done in gold
thread.
Borne Xate Fashion "Sotes.
Pipnto3 of fnr are used this season Instead
of the wider bands.
All materials, even tho lightest of ball
gauzes, aro to bo trimmed with fur, more,
even, tiian last year.
Chiftos and feather trimminjr retain their
popularity. Elbow sleeves made entirely of
small curling tips sewed on to a foundation
of net are seen.
I-f making black lace dresses, when trans
parent sleeves are desired. If tho sleeves aro
first lined with very fine white net the arms
will loolc much whiter. The lining does no
show when the sleeves are worn.
A pnrtTr trimming for the edge of dart:
skirts Is to have a doublo row of passemen
terie, a flower design belnjr the most effect
ive, laid on flat over a Uulit-colnred ribbon.
llAEQARirr H. Welch.
MAZZIKI A3 A SM0KEK.
More Than Once the Fragrant Faffs Saved
Him From His Enemies.
"tfewcastle (Esc) Chroalcls.71
The fatuous Italian exile was forewarned
that his assassination had been planned, and
that men had been dispatched to London
for the purpose, but he made no attempt to
exclude them from his house. One day tha
conspirators entered his room and found
him listlessly smoking. "Take cigars, gs
tlemen," was his instant invitation. C '
ting and hesitation on their part followed.
"But you do not proceed to business, gen
tlemen," said Mazzini. "I believe your in
tention isio kill me."
The astounded mircreants fell on their
knees, and at length departed with the gen
erous pardon accorded them, while a longer
puff of.smokc than usual was the only male
diction sent after them.
Mazzini, once, when he was staying with
his friends in an Italian city, where his "
head was forfeited, sa1-? guards approaching
the honse to arrest him. On their way up
to the door the cliateau stood op, va emi
nence they met a person sauntering dutrn'
towards them smoking a cigar. He gava
them the salutation of the morning, which
the captain returned. On arriving at tha
chateau, Mazzini was demanded.
""We ell know he is here," said tha
chief officer. "Certainly," said the host,
who knew it was in vain to profess ignor
ance, "he was, but isfaot, it is ha whom you
met, I saw him salute you."
They had been completely thrown offthelr
guard by the coolness of the smoking
stranger. Once out of theirsight they knew
it was vain to expect to lay hands on that
ubiquitous smoker, whom no man ever be
trayed. Mazzini's last years in England
were spent at Old Brompton. The modest
chambers he occupied in Onslow Terraca
were strewed with papers and the tables
provided with cigars, that friends who
called might select their brands and join
him. He always kept a cigar burning while
he wrote. Canaries flew free about tha
room. ,
Lord Montairy, In "Lothair," smoked
cigars so mild and delicate in flavor that
his wife never found him out; Mazzini
surely must have had some Montairy cigars,
for his canaries did not And him oat, or
object to him if they did. "We are told.at
Pisa, where Mazzini died, his long solitary
days were passed in reading, writing and
incessantly smoking. During the fits of
delirium in his last illness, the incessant
smoker fancied he was enjoying his favorite
perchance, for a man so abstemious, his
only luxury and,he moved his wan fingers
to and fro, as though he were putting a
cigar to his lips and taking it away.
little Bess and the Twins.
There were two little kittens, a blaekna t
And grandmamma said, with a frowst
"It will never do to keep them Doth,
The black one we'd better drown.
"Don't cry, my dear" to tiny Bess,
One kitten's enough to keep.
Now run to nurse, for 'tis crowta lata,
And time yon were fast asleep."
The morrow dawned, and rosy and nre$
Came little Bess from her nap;
The nurse said. "Go into mamma's rooxo.
And look in grandma's lap."
Come here," said grandmamma with. ft
smile,
From the rocking chair where sha'gatg
"God has sent yon two little sisters.
Now what do you think of that:"
Bess looked at the babie? a moment.
With their wee beads, yellow and brewn.
And then to Grandmamma soberly said,
"Which are you going to drownJ"
.
Q
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