BATHING FOR BEAUTY.
The World Is Stuffed Full of Non
sense About Simple Washing.
COLD WATER IS AN INJURY.
Childrea'g Health Often Enined
Quack Idea of Shock.
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DRAPERIES OF BEAUTY.
GownaThat Are Becoming for tho Season of
Fallen Leaves A Typical Pnrlslenne
Wrap and Bonnets for the Colder
"Weather Odds and Ends.
It is every woman's duty to dress as well
si Bhe can, and, if she only knew it, she is a
much mora import
ant person when
neatly and tastefully
dressed than when
she goes about in a
slip-shod, don't-care
fashion, says the
ITew York Le&gtr.
Her opinion is worth
much more if she
has the reputation of
being herself well
dressed, for one ar-
rives at a sort of in
tuitive conclusion
that a well-ordered
toilet indicates a
i well-ordered mind.
One of the most im
portant parts of a
woman's education
is to regulato her
homo dressing that
Crochet Sleeveless Jacket, she shall herself be
presentable, or di least that her dress shall
be adapted to her work. Ko one would ex
pect her to wear a silk costume in tha
dairy, or one of muslin while at work in
her flower garden. Thers are fabrics and
styles whicli are appropriate for all occa
sions, and to know and follow the sensible
course is a mark of well-balanced, practical,
useful and comprehensive mind.
Some hints as to costume contained in
this column may be useful to the home
dressmaker. Those who like fancy work
will be interested in the crochet sleeveless
jacket shown here. The model is worked
with black zephyr wool, and has black moire
ribbon run into the edge and made into bows
for the shoulders. It is worked in ribbed
stitch. Begin with a chain of 217 stitches
for the outer edge, and work to and fro.
Pull directions arc given by Harper's Bazar,
from which the illustration is taken. But
tons and button loons are most satisfactory
for fastening the jacket at the front.
DESIGNS TOE AUTtrjLN- 'WEAR,
A model of an embroidered cloth wrap
that will be popular in early winter is
shown herewith, it
is of blue camel's
hair cloth. It is cut
like a half-fitting
jacket, rather short,
and lengthened all
around by a pleating
of silk of the Earns
color. Long cape
sleeves are added,
elaborately embroid
ered in steel and
chenille threads. A
boa of light gray fur
encircles the neck
and edges the fronts,
and a pointed hood
lined with pleated
silk is on the back.
A rather striking
costume, and cer
tainly a novelty is
the steel-spangled
fown reproduced
ere from Harper's
Jiazar. The model
is of light cray cloth.
Ithasabelted bodice
which is studded with
steel spangles and
114
jHfffP
v
Cloth and Silk Wrap.
trimmed with applique figures of darker
pray velvet The skirt has a foundation.!
skirt of lining, two vards and a quarter
wide at the bottom. The cloth skirt
mounted upon it is two yards and five
eighths wide at the bottom; "it is trimmed
there with three narrow rnches, placed at
the lower edge and at five and ten inches
above, and composed of bands two inches
wide, pinked at the edges and pleated in
triple box pleats: between the ruches are
rows of fancy machine stitching in steel
thread, with the spaces between studded
with spangles. The skirt is fitted at the
top by sevpn darts on the front and sides,
and is closely gathered at the back.
The other illustration of this article is
rent The Dispatch by its special corre
spondent at Varis. The correspondent says
It isa .capital representation of the typical
Parisionne as she appears on the boulevards
these October days."
THE BOSTOK WALKING COSTUMi
flo far as known only two women of Bos-
i are to wear the reform costume. They
are Mrs. Evelyn S.
Ingersoll a n" d a
friend. They are
having their gowns
made now, and will
venture out in them
the first rainy day.
But there is not much
fire to make so much
smoke. The new
dress is not at all
radical, for women
who already discard
corsets wear hygienic
undergarments, and
dress with some de
gree of regard to the
tirre, place and oc
casion. For them it
is simply a dress of
waterproof material,
of the best quality
that thepursc allows,
coming to the top of
the boots, the waist
line being propor
tionately shortened
in order to preserve
harmony of outline,
a close-fitting "reef
er" and a neat cap
of the same material
as the dress. Much
pretty. One of my friends is having made a
suit like mine, but I know of nobody" else
who is doing so."
BAUfT DAT GOWKS OF lOSDOIT.
When the London woman goes a splashin'
through the mud and grime on rainy days,
(ays the Hew York Sun, she wears a water
proof tweed faced up on the inside with
mackintosh. Each of the vertical lines in the
skirt represents a plait that spreads a little,
and so widens the circumference of the skirt
as she walks. The leggings are like the
gown, and are met at the knee by knicker
bockers. The bodice has an extra shoulder
covering in the way of a zouave that does
away with the need of a wrap on all not
very cold days. And how is it possible for
a woman to look blown about or dishevelled
or drnsrcled in a rie: like this? If only all
women were young and fair and slight and
courageous, what a simple matter dress re
form would be. It is the stout woman that
bars the way.
This is how the French ma'm'selle does it
when she goes a-huntin'. It is corduroy
in the soft dun color that blends so
harmoniously with autumn's gorgeous
color setting. It is short in the skirt and
worn over knickerbockers; no petticoats.
It has leggings litted more closely and
neatly than the proverbial glove, and closed
with old silver buttons like those that fasten
the bodice and the sleeve. A. belt of russet
leather clasped with an old silver buckle, a
Brighton hat of soft gray felt with a single
scarlet wing at the side, and just an edge of
scarlet peeping out at the throat and wrists.
And isn't she a joy forever on the heather,
even if she docs insist on shutting her eyes
when she fires, and doej hit a dog or a
keeper sow and then.
MILI.EXXRT FOE OCTOBER,
In this month's display -at millinery re
ceptions there are diversities enough to en
able each woman to
select suitable and
becoming headgear
for any and all occa
sions, says Meg in
the Philadelphia
JXmes. The styles in
both bonnets and
hats are varied and
wonderful, s There
are color combina
tions sufficiently
startling to have had
their origin in
France. For in
stance, a bonnet of
yellow,amethyst and
green, not subdued,
but high colors. The
bonnet itself if the
covered frame can
properly be called a
bonnet was of ame
thyst velvet; the yel
lowest of yellow vel
vet made puffing
about the face and
amidst the puffc were
set cabouchons show
ing flashes of yellow,
SniELET DARE'S C03I310N SENSE TALK
lis ?'$&
fit
Steel Epargled Vlolh
IrWJJ.
An October Parlsienne. green and amethyst
Upright yell ow loops trimmed the back,
while green fish scale ornaments covered
the sides and long ties of narrow yellow
velvet ribbon completed the giddy design.
Prettier, than this and looking as if made
to be eaten instead of worn, was a flat hat of
blue velvet with brim cloven directly in
front, bdnded with tinsel and chenille.show
ing the several colors used for trimming.
The crown was nearly hidden under upright
loops and nestling bows of yellow, pinkand
apple green velvet ribbon in sunset tints.
Surmounting this crown trimming and add
ing height were several pink tips; e;ilt cord
further finished the edge of the brim and
the invariable ties were of the pink velvet.
If this bonnet was not the "pink of perfec
tion" please name it. Model bonnets are
trimmed higher in front than has been the
case lately, and this change is a welcome
one to the average woman.
REIGN OF THE PRINCESS.
This promises to be a great season for the
princess gown in its extremeimplicity for
out-of-door service, but as elaborate as the
most sumptuous material loaded with daz
zling trimmings can make it lor receptions
and dinners. A charming model is a prin
cess dress metamorphosed into an orthodox
street suit by an adjustment of the unique
shoulder cape, which is cut plain across the
shoujders. pleated very full over each arm
to form the stylish wings cud purposely de
signed to not meet across the bust, thereby
furnishing an excuse for the cord ornament.
The material is twilled cheviot, reddish
brown and blue stripes, flecked with chamois
color. The piquant high collar and cape are
lined with this same yellow and chamois
cloves are worn with the costume.
Like most of the latest designs this seems
as if intended for the slender wo an. The
prettv felt hat is of blue, becomingly bent
and pinched to suit a youthful wearer, and
is trimmed with bows of brown velvet rib
bon and large ostrich feathers.
It is pretty well known by this time that
one of the popular coats "is cut without
darts. The fit at the back and across the
bust must be as perfect as in any other coat,
but the front is left to fall loose from the
bust down. The broad felt hat is one of the
most popular, since equally becoming to
the young or middle ased, and in this case
trimmed, to be in keeping with the plain
gown.
OHE SECBET OF BEAUTY.
attention will be riven to making the dress
es beautiful rs possible, and the question of
economy will also be carefully considered.
The greatest expense will be in the boots, I
which will nave to be made to order, al
though the wrinkled leather leggins can be
worn with the ordinary walking boot. The
skirt of the dress will be kilted, thus giv
ing perfect freedom of motion, and the
foreshortened eficct which most women
dread will be obviated by having the waist
line taken up to its proper place. There
will bo no ttrap, suspenders, bindings or
belts, the suit being made all in one piece
and its weight equally distributed over the
tody.
Mrs. Ingersoll has been greatly amused
by the know iedge that she is pointed out as
a great dress reformer. "This is utterly
absurb," said she. "I have not spoken a
word to convert anyone to my way of think
ing. I am having a costumemade of water
proof cloth, with which I shall wear stout
walking boo-.s with long tops, like a riding
boot. When the suit is ready I shall wear
It, but I hae no intention of keeping it for
rainy weather alone, as it will be much too
The Mother Who lias Sente Enough to Take
Care of Herself Will Last.
Two mothers, each with a young baby and
no nurse, were discussing how they man
aged it. "I should be worn out," said one,
"I'm sure, except for my rests. I make It
a point as soon as my baby is sound asleep
for his morning nap io drop everything and
lie down myself." "Oh," said the other,
"while my baby takes his day nap is the
only chance I have to gather up the loose
ends about the house."
In these tw o phases of management lies
a wide and deep philosophy, says the Cin
cinnati Coimitertial-Gazclle. Ten years from
now it will be safe to predict that that sec
ond mother will have lines in her face and
have wrinkles on her brow that have no
business to be there, and, equallythat
mother 2io. 1 will still be fresh and bloom
ing. EEXES IS DIAMONDS.
A Jeweler Points Oat a Male and a Female
in a Group of Gems.
"Here," said a jeweler to a Jcacler'i Re
view reporter the other day, "is quite a curi
osity." He picked up a three-karat white
stone with the tweezers. "It is a specimen
that will prove to you that there is a dif
ference of sex in the gems. This is what is
called the female, a multiplying diamond."
He held the gem under a strong magnify
ing glass aud pointed to four or five smaller
diamonds clustered about one of the facets
at the edge of the table of the stone. "The
male gem," the jeweler said, "is sharp
pointed and never gathers these embryo
gems. There is a fine specimen alongside
that pink stone. It surprises most people
who see those specimens to be told that they
rWKITTEN TOE THK DISPATCH.3
The first attention paid us when we enter
this world and the last as life departs from
us is a bath. The unwashed corpse conveys
the last significance of indignity and for
lornness. Outside these two functions most
mortals deal with water sparingly as pos
sible that is to say, thev wash when they
feel dirty, drink when they are parched, hut
are unconfessedly glad to escape the neces
sity of either. It is hard to tell what chil
dren hate most, learning a Sunday school
lesson or taking the Saturday bath exacted
of them.
It takes as much cultivation to appreciate
a bath as to enjoy a painting. A country
lad will find interest in looking at Verest
chagin's war pictures, but their terrible
eloquence is lost upon him. Curious that
in an age when conveniences for bathing
are common as street lights there is not the
most distant need of warning devout souls
against too great indulgence in the pleasures
of the bath, as Holy Church in the Middle
Ages found necessary.
BEAUTY BETORE DECENCY.
I notice that pnblic spirited persons, or
those wno mean to be such, arc anxious to
secure a classic picturesqness for the facade
of the free baths which they design to ir-
llict upon the public, while they overlook
provisions indispensable for refinement and
bafety from contagion. Public gifts demand
closer scruting than they are likely to
receive, and none more than a public bath
house. The bath has a hundred benefits be ides
acting the part of washerwoman in launder
ing our garment of skin. It refreshes by
change of temperature, for man is not at
his best in air over 70degress orlJbelow zero.
Very few people know, what the Ituss and
Finn are well aware of, that a hot bath
in winter will so heat the body as to enable
it to bear cold better for days. Few under
stand the necessity for freely perspiring per
sons of two baths daily in hot weather, to
clear the pores and cool the body, morning
and night Prostration by heat would be
almost unknown if this were the habit of
all classcsj especially of working men who
swcatfCopiously. The bath as a means of
physical dcvelopement is hardly known. A
properly fitted bathroom is not second to a
gymnasium for perfecting the body.
TOO MUCH THEORY IN BATHING.
People take their baths too much by
theory. The ricid disciplinarian bathes in
cold water the year rouud as a corporeal
and spiritual benefit and a protest against
weakness of the flesh. The nervous, con
scientious woman endures it, hoping to har
den and strength herself, dreading above all
things making herself tender. The inju
dicious parent urges her shivering into the
cold tub or the most dreadful shock oi, the
shower bath, never dreaming of the mis
chief she does.
To break the constitution of a susceptible
child and lay the train for paralysis, hys
teria and epilepsy nothing is surer than a
course of hardening in early youth. If the
cold bath or the shower is dreaded, if there
is catching of the breath and tremor as the
child enters the water, empty the bath of
its cold flood and turn on the warm water
till he is glad to get in and play in it A
mother would be alarmed if a'cKild fully
I lowers the bodily warmth far less than the
morning chill of cold water she administers
daily. If you want to give a jirl a weak
constitution by all means insist on the
various systems of discomfort which ex
cellent persons consider improving.
AN INGENIOUS SPIRIT OF TORTURU,
A woman speaking of this sort of bring
ing up said that in looking back to her
childhood she could hardly remember ever
being comfortable, as;she was either made
to wash in cold water or weighted down
with too much clothing when she went out
of doors, forbidden to hover round the fire
for fear of getting tender, and obliged to
sleep in an icy chamber for the same reason,
while diet and habits were regulated with
an ingenious spirit ot torture. Instead of
hardening it underminded her constitution
and left her one of the most susceptible of
creatures. We can breathe and move in
cold air, though that is ingeniously warmed
before it reaches the skin and lungs, but I
doubt it we were ever made to delight in
cold water in cold weather.
The coldest nations take the hottest baths
and are not enfeebled by them. It is blood
heated by youth or the fire of full life which
likes the cold dip or spray, but beware how
you have to nerve yourself to endure it A
cold bath may be a risky experiment. The
rule that cold bathing is safe when followed
by good reaction is not wholly sound. I
recall a woman who used to take baths of
the coldest well water daily and find great
refreshment from them, " who afterward
charged weakness of the heart and general
debility to these excessive stimulus. Dr.
Shoemaker says all the persons he has
known who boasted of breaking a film of
ice to take their baths died early, yet
doubtless they felt good reaction at the
time.
Z.ET THte BABIES PLAY IN IT.
If you would have vigorous, fair, healthy
children make their baths a diversion, hav
ing the room and water kept so warm that
they can play in it to their heart's content
Do not hurry them out of it, for water is a
stimulus to growth and a tonic to muscles
and nerves. Half an hour in a room heated
to 80 degrees at the walls and free from
drauchts and cracks, with water not allowed
to fall below 85 degrees at any time, the
children permitted to get in and out of the
tub and run about, to spatter and frolic, is
as goon a system of physical development
as you can devise for all under 12 years of
age.
One reads with envy Mr. Lafarge's de
scription of the Japanese habits, "a whole
family father, mother, children filing
down to the big bathroom at the corner,
whose windows were open," where he
"heard them romp and splash and saw their
naked arms shining through the steam." A
bathing garment for the ciders would sat
isfy all the proprieties, and we might have
in rur own nouses the charming scenes
French artists imagine from the Greek,
well known by the photographs, where
women and naked children lounge and frolic
in the marble-lined, fiowcr-decked pools of
the spacious bathing rooms. Our public
and private baths are much too business
like, and in dingy surroundings hardly
more tempting than sculleries.
AN ANTIDOTE TO PAIN.
can sleep with the window open so much the
better for her complexion and well-being.
PIMPLES AND HEADACHES.
Fresh air by night and day is far more
wholesomely tonic than any amount of cool
bathing. The first approach of malaise with
girls should be signal for prompt curative
practice of the kind named." This prevents
the flushings and pimples, the headaches
and fractiousness of growing girh. "When
malaise wholly disappears or a few days
alter is the time for cold sponging of the
back below the waist and the hip muscles,
and a finish by rubbing with alcohol or bay
spirit is not "at all out of the wav. Such
treatment transforms girls from lumpish,
awkward creatures to supple, vivacious ones
if they are not educated to death over their
books. The complexion of black, purple
and livid yellow which remind one of tha
colors of nightshade disappear under this
practice, and graceful carriage results from
the improved elasticity of the hip and leg
muscles.
For acute abdominal or visceral pain of
whatever nature, in any age or sex, the
great cure is hot fomentation, which comes
under the head of bathing. The only limit
to the heat is the endurance of the skin, and
it should be increased rather than allowed
to cool until the pain is subdued. Hot
water bags and bottles are a delusion: they
are never hot enough and cool faster than
they get heated in my experience. Besides,
most heat is absorbed and exerts a prompter
effect, so that the first thing when an attack
of cramps coines on, as it usually does in
the small hours, when vitality is lowest,
the first thing is to dip a yard of heavy
flannel in boiling water, wrap it in a towel,
wring by its ends and apply to the ikin
over the pain.
HOW TO RELIEVE NEURALGIA.
Ifyouhaveto depend on dry heat keep
half u dozen layers of thin manila or tissue
paper over the skin, and put the water bag
or hot flannel or brick over that The
paper holds the heat and protects the skin
from changes too slight for notice by well
persons, but which cause acute grief in
attacks of pain. When face ache comes on
and other, relief is not near, a sheet of soft
paper held to the skin by a warm palm is
very comtorting, as it protects the skin and
holds what little heat there is. Neuralgic
people never ought to be without two
thir.g3 in their pockets, charcoal and soda
tablet;", to correct the aciditv which causes
the mischief, and some soft tissue paper to
apply to the pain.
While I am about it I will mention from
experience that a perfectly lovely treat
ment for neuralgia is to brush the skin with
hot melted paraffino wax, and leave the
coating on as long as possible. It peels off
very easily, and can be used again and
agaiHj and no lotion is more exquisitely
soothing. .
To enumerate a tithe of the variations of
relief by bathing devices will convince one
that bathrooms admit of great additions to
their usual conveniences. The tile lined
rooms and silver or porcelain tubs of mil
lionaires have nofhincr to recommend them
but their pleasure to the eye. for the silver
tub is no whit better for all purposes of
holding heat than the bright tin one, and
the tile or marble is not half so good.
TnE IDEAL BATHROOM.
Try either and vou will be content to fall
back op the well-polished tin, which docs
nut cuiu wiin us stony touch. Xhe bath
room ought to be light and sunny, with
floor and walls painted and impervious to
moisture. A carpeted bathroom, often Feen
in city houses, i a nuisance. There should
be some way of heating the room and warm
ing towels and clean clothes on racks. The
bright tub should be long enough to lie
down in, and a sitz bath with a canvas seat
to support the body in the water should be
part of the furniture.
A shower hath is not necessary at all, but
a hot and cold douche with flexible tube is
indispensable. It does not give the system
uue great shock use tne snower, out concen
trates stimulus where needed, gently or
otherwise. . In rheumatism, paralysis,
withered limb or eczema the play of a
douche for 5 to 15 minutes is a most effectivt
stimulant I need only refer to the practice
at Richfield Springs for rheumatic ails,
which is a hot soak for half an hour, fol
lowed by a douche for fifteen minutes, with
incredible benefit For women who worry
men unuevciopea ngures tne warm
douche, cooled to tepid over the bosom, is
the safest treatment, and the same is true
for small legs and arms, care being taken
not to over douche. A hot douche flowing
down the length of the spine is sovereign
for nerve ailments.
AMMONli AND ALCOHOL BATHS.
Bathing is carried to a fine art in the besi
public establishments, which number a list
of medicated baths, quinine and iron baths
for malaria, oil baths and peat baths, tar
baths and pin6 needle baths for consump-
i-i.co, auii vicuautc uaius lor eruminnn
Domestic practice is well equipped with
ammonia, alcohol and electric baths, which
are simpler than they sound. Ammonia
baths, given by sponging with hot or tepid
water with a tablesnoonful or two of liquid
ammonia to the gallon, are of great benefit
in all disorders of acid or fetid perspiration,
as i-i consumption, dyspepsia, tumors and
rheumatism, for which they should be taken
at least every other day. They are very
agreeable if spirits of lavender or toile't
water is added to perfume it. For refresh
ing and keeping up the strength the alcohol
bath in its varieties is supreme.
If people would quit using alcohol inter
nally and use it outside they would find
more stimulus and support. "Three fingers"
of good spirits is quite enough to sponge
one from head to foot, and perfumes add to
its efficiency and pleasure. A. tonic every
woman who exerts herself should keep on
hand is a bottle of the finest bay spirit, not
common bay rum, but the genuine St
Thomas distillation. It costs only 31 for a
wine bottle full, which will bear much dilu
tion and yet be strong as anything ordi
narily sold. The odor is a delightfurblend
ing of biyarade orange and pimento with
bay laurel, and the lotion has a magic over
headache from brain work and fatigued
muscles, while poured, undiluted, on a
sponge and inhaled it quiets the nerves and
sends one to sleep. Shirley Dare.
HOW MEDIUMS FAIL
If There Be Any Truth in Spiritual
ism It Should Be Useful.
ALL THlT WISDOM OP THE AGES
Might Bo Opened for the Benefit of Man If
Ghosts Weren't Frauds.
TUB KONSENSE OP CARD PEOPHECT
rwniTTZN TOJt THE PISPATCH. J
There is ono question in which we are all
interested the question ot the future.
Most of us imagine we are going to a land
that is "fairer than this." It is the ac
cepted opinion that beyond this mortal life
are "sweet fields arrayed in living green
and rivers of delight" All of the griev
ances of this world are to be compensated
in the world to come. The future holds
everything. However dark the present,
the future is bright with hope.
Without this hope how could the world go
on? With the thought that "Heaven is my
home" millions of poor women suffer and
endure hardships that without such hope,
hemlock would be desirable and "going
out" the certainty that all trouble would be
ended. Socrates was a heathen, but he re
garded death with indifference. He held
that virtue consisted of knowledge, and that
to do right was the only road to happiness.
But with all his philosophy, wisdom and
knowledge he knew nothing of m the happy
iana me wona peoplea with spirits tne
world to which death is the open door, the
world shown by mediums.
HISTORY AND PHILOSOPHY ABOVE.
A learned author writing on the philoso
phy of a future state has announced that
the chief subjects of study in the heavenly
world will be history and philosophy. Un
der the head of history the spirits will be
constantly talking of the world below.
How stupid they were with their future
knowledge. How dull they were with
philosophy close at handl How ignorant
they were with mediums on tap and only
too eager and anxious to tell them all about
the hereafter! With Socrates in close com
munion to open to them the gates of knowl
edge, with Calvin just behind the door to
clear up his creed and show his followers in
what they were wrong, and how mistaken
tbey were on the point of doctrine that 30
human beings in any minute of time are
hurled into the great abyss of eternal damna
tion, with Luther just over there to tell how
things really were, with all the popes, and
bishops, and holy men of old in close con
nection with this world byway of mediums,
it does seem strange that so little is known
concerning the great questions which so
puzzle ana perplex mankind. Here we
grope in mystery. There, they know it alL
With mediums, materialized spirits and
people eternally coming back why do they
not enlighten the world on the very points
as to which it most needs knowledge?
"WHAT SOCRATES COULD TELL.
Socrates coming back could give most
valuable information. With his earthly
wisdom, backed up by the heavenly infor
mation acquired in the 22 or more centuries
of spirit life, he could tell the people of
world how to live and move and have their
being in the best possible fashion.
Queen Elizabeth coming back with all
her worldly wisdom coupled with her heav
enly intelligence could give Queen Victoria
some pointers that would make her reign
more glorious. Luther, by coming back in
spirit, could inform the world as to
whether celibacy or marriage is the more
blessed condition, and how the happiness
of heaven can best be sustained doubly or
singly. Calvin coming back in spirit could
tell all about his creed and how to revise
the catechism and the Confession of Faith.
Why should notGeorge Washington "come
over" in material form to tell how to best
Bteer the Republic. Jefferson should take
enough interest in republican institutions
to come back, and with his earthly common
sense tacked on to his heavenly wisdom,
give the world a piece of his mind that
would be greatly to its interest and ad
vantage. Andrew Jackson would not be a
bad spirit to call up for some Democratic
wisdom at this stage of the game between
McKinley and Campbell, and to interview
on the future of the tin plate industry. It
would be lovely, too, to near from Lincoln,
or indeed to have him "materialize" and
say his say for the benefit of his party. It
would be nice to know if Conkhng and
Arthur have "made up" and got things
squared between them in the "great be
yond." IP SPIRITUALISM WERE TRUE,
to spiritualism that would disgrace -jv-ages.
So says the advocate and defender of
the ghosts. It was a great pleasure there
fore, for Miss Marryat to find that the
"media" in this country could hang out
their shingles and advertise for locks of hair
and fortune telling without hindrance or
restraint
It will be new to many to hear that telling
fortunes by cards is a part of spiritualism.
But "to come true, we are informed by
Miss Marryat, they must be handled and
shuffled, and laid out by those who have
mediumistic power. Only those who are
kept posted by the spirits "can predict the
future. In this is found the secret of the
old crones who tell the fortunes of servant
girls. In this rests the Gipsies' prophecies,
and the yarns of the madames who tell the
present, past aud future of anybody for a
dollar. This art is dignified by the name of
"inspirations."
PHILOSOPHY OP A DECK OP CARDS.
Clubs portend happiness and they can't
be got into any position to mean anything
bad. Hearts signify joy, liberality and
goodtemper,and they cannot be shnflled into
meaning anything but good luck. Diamonds
foretell quarrels, cross-grained happenings,
and all sorts of annoyances. Spades is the
worst suit in the deck. Anything awful
can come of spades. Battle and murder and
sudden death. The Ace of Spades is bad news.
The King of Spades is an enemy, a dis
honest lawyer, or 3" mean man generally.
The Queen of Spades is a widow, and when
upside down is a dangerous and malicious
woman. The Knave of Spades is a dark
young man, plotting mischief. The Ten of
Spades means tears, prison and sundry
afflictions. The Nine of Spades is death for
somebody. The Eight of Spades is illness,
and so on down the list But only one gifted
as a medium can get at the story told by tha
card9, according to Miss Marryat Her
dif orce, second marriage, business troubles
were all foretold by the layout However
shuffled the pack michtbe. the spades would
get in such position as to tell her future of
bad luck. Cards, however, are a sealed book
save to mediums.
NEUTRALIZING- DIRE PROPHECIES.
But the sorry creature to whom spades
come can make "a wish" that will get all
things even, if perchance the ace of nearts
or the nine of hearts turns up at the proper
place. But if the nine of spades shows up
the very Old Boy is to pay. Nothing but
disappointment can then be predicated. To
most people the easiest way to get rid of the
direful procnostications of the nine of
spades would be to leave it out of the deck,
but the spirit behind that pack of cards, the
inspiration of hat fate, so to speak, would
still be there and move mountains to bring
it to pass. If the nine of spades were not
there to tell of defeat and disappointment,
they would get in somehow, as they do in
every human life. The ten of spades, which
means tears, a prison, or affliction of some
sort, could be utilized instead.
The marvelous thing, in view of the
easiness with which the future can be fore
told, as Miss Marryat relates, is how little
the world avails itself of this source of
knowledge. With spirits on hand every
day in the week, or for that matter every
hour in the day, to tell of what is coming
next, it is certainly wonderful they are so
little regarded. If by way of cards the
secrets of futurity could he disclosed what a
relief it would be to mankind. "Why should
the world lack knowledge on any point
when dealing the cards by threes or sevens
to the left will open up the whole story of
fortune and the future?
Besses Bramble.
LIKE PEISONS DAEK.
Impression One Gets From the Out
side of New York's Eich Homes.
NEWSPAPER WOMEN AS BEIDES.
How Trifling Mannerisms Are Copied dj
the Belles of Society.
TEAINED NUESES IN THE SICK E00M
AT THE FAMILY TABLE.
AH EMPEESS FOE EEE HZIGHX
The bath is woman's best antidote to pain,
the tonic for her strength and preservative
of freshness. Chronic irregularities and
periodic attacks of pain seldom refuso to
yield to a course of varied baths. From
the time girls enter their teens preliminary
aches and languor call for brt footbaths that
are footbaths. The bestfoot tubs I ever saw
were the three gallon tin cans in which pep
permint oil comes for the druggists, which
allows the legs to be immersed to the knee.
Such a leg bath taken with a very warm
soap and water sitz bath on retiring, wiping
on warm towels and getting immediately
into a warm bed with hot bricks or soap
stones, is a hygiene which steals a counter
march on acute disorders, which ruin a
girl's scholarship, good looks and comfort
for years.
In contradiction to nearly all doctors' ad
vice on the subject I say don't finish the hot
bath with a cool douche or sponge in cases
where there is ache or pain, however slight
Warmth is vitality and anodyne to pain.
t.i. !... i m.1-!-l. 4.iif a.
are of different sex as well as color, but Enp ovcr the nightgown, warmed for sleep
such is the fact J jj it leaves the girl so warm that she
Bismarck Bald the Kohenzolleros Were
Getting; Short, TIenco the Alliance.
The Empress of Germany is a stupendous
and overwhelming excuse and encourage
ment for any woman's love of dress. Au
gusta makes a magnificent appearance. One
would almost call her a regal beauty.
Nevertheless, she is about as commonplace,
really, as empresses are ever made, and it
is only the glitter and glory of her magni
ficent jew eL and the style of her sumptuous
gowns that cheat the eye into admiring the
woman.
She is a big woman; always tall, and by
profuse maternity given an amplitude not
graceful but imposing. It was her height,
so 'tis said, that gave her a throne. Bis
marck, whose word then was law, remarked
that Hohcnzollerns were running down in
stature getting below the royal feet and
inches. So he ordered that the young Prince
marry the tallest Princess that he could
find, which he did in the person of her pres
ent Majesty.
A HIGHLAND CHIEFTAIN'S DEBI&
Old Story of the Cays When the iAlrds
Didn't Settle Bills Promptly.
The Scottish-American.
In former times, when the Highland
chieftains were not so prompt in their pay
ment, a tradesman from the Low Country,
impatient for his money, found, with some
difficulty, the way to one of their castles.
Arriving at night, he had bis supper, and
was put to bed. On looking out in the
morning he observed, opposite to his win
dow, a man hanging on a tree.
Asking a servant the reason of it, he was
told he was a 'Glasgow merchant, who had
the impudence to come here and dun the
laird. The tradesman, immediately calling
for his boots, went off without unfolding
his errand! The laird had caused the effigy
of a man to be hung up, in the night, and in
structed his servants what to say, which had
the desired effect
What lengths and breadths and heights
of felicity could be reached here below if
spiritualism were on assured fact, and spirits
of great men nnd women, of saints, and
the "best beloved" could come back and tell
us of the future that awaits mankind, and
is only shut out from earthly vision by a
door called death.
Florence Marryat asserts "There Is no
Death," and to support her statement sets
up ghost stories and personal experiences
that will convince, as she thinks, every
reputable reader. Those who do not swal
low all she says as really truth, aro the sort
of people classified by Carlvle as mainly
fools. To not believe in mediums, to refuse
credence to their oracular utterances, to
shut out faith in spirits is, to her mind, a
sort of intellectual crime. To her "Sun
shine," "Hambo," the "Spirit Child," the
cabinet spirits, the "controls" are real
ghosts that come back and talk like living
people. She believes in them, and
holds herself at their command.
She puts herself under their jurisdiction
and fondly imagines that in them
are held the secrets of life and death.
Why the spirits of Indians, negroes and
low-down representatives oi life are so
largely in 'control she does not explain.
Those outside of the marvelous manifesta
tions may complain that the spirits, who by
knowledge and wisdom might do most good
to the world, are usually among the miss
ing, while the "injuns" and the "snow
drops" nnd the "lilys" and the fol de rots
generally are always on hand and within
hail. In all of Miss Marryat's experiences
she does not name one spirit of note.
DISAPPOINT Wnnt THEY DO COME.
Madam de Stael might have appeared
upon the scene. George Eliot could have
testified to and emphasized the truths of
spiritualism. Emerson might have "dropped
in" and given a little talk. Longfellow,
being beyond "the suburb of the Life Ely
sian," might have given some pointers as to
the life to come. Carlyle might have told
how things were "beyond the bourne" and
how "Jane" and he got along when the
mists had rolled away. But this sort of
spirits keep dark. They come not back ex
cept on special occasions when their bad
spelling and queer thinking mark the fact
that they have retrograded in the spirit
land and can only be classed as dunces.
It is something to know that ghosts, ac
cording to Mis3 Marryat, show up better in
America than in England. She witnessed
40 materializations in one evening in New
York. Moreover, these American rfiosts
spoke far more distinctly aud audibly than
those which appeared in England, aud she
set down the fact of better materializations
in this country to the dryer atmosphere.
Moreover, the ghosts that appear within
TJncle Sam's dominions wear clothes and
not drapery only. The women appear in
good gowns and the men in coats and trous
ers. In Eng.and, as appears, spirits show
up in "semblance white," without any
Bhape. Why they should wear corsets and
put on style in this country is not made
manifest
GHOSTS FARE BETTER JIT AMERICA.
It is comforting to learn from her book
that spirits are better treated in this coun
try than in Johnny Bull's land and that the
mediums do not have to hide themselves
from the world through danger of being
swooped down upon and clapped into jail
as rogues and vagabonds. England, high as
she holds herself, is discredited with laws as
Talk on Artificial Bnttez Importance
of Good (service The Popular Steak
and Onions Oatmeal Porridge Elllco
Serena' Gossip for Housekeepers.
rWMTTWT rOB THE DISPATCH.!
The manufacture of oleomargarine. It Is
said, may be traced to the era ot Napoleon
IIL, who set the chemist, Mlge Mourior at
work to discover an artificial butter for use
in the army. This chemist, so the story goes,
added hutter color and flavor made in the
laboratory, to olein and margarine extracted
from beef suet, and mixed with a little
genuine butter. From this successful ex
periment may be dated the great Industry
of artificial butter-making.
Oleomargarine and buttorine, accordlngto
the statement of one of the finest chemists
in the county, are regarded as valuable food
stuffs, being far superior to tho poor, partly
rancid butter which is so generally sold in
tho Iar.ie cities. One of the creates t dietLtrv
needs'of the workingman, says this gentle
man, is a sufficient supply of an inexpensive
wholesome fut Tnis will be largely met by
these artificial butters. The objection to
these butters floes not arise from the fact
that they are mado from animal fats, bat bo
cause thero are grave doubts as. to the clean
liness in the process of manufacture, and to
tne Jieaicniuinessot tne animals rroin which
tlie rats are produced.
rWEITTES' FOB THE DISPATCTf.l
Persons visiting New York for the first
time and walking through the quarter of its
fashionable residences are struck with the
impassive fronts it presents. One might
linger the day through in front of the home
ofanyoneof the city's very wealthy per
sons without catching a glimpse of the
magnificent life which goes on behind the
stone walls. The two "Vanderhilt mansions,
which are joined by a common and spacious
hallway or vestibule,occupy a whole block on
Fifth avenue, have some windows for light
and air, but not for the display of any
beautiful draperies or glimpses into any
luxurious interiors. Tin Tiffany mansion,
enormous and somber, has been likened to
an armory or a prison from its unbroken
walls, yet the portals once passed, within
light, brilliancy and beauty abound.
The finest honses are imposing from the
outside view, from their size and splendor
known to be concealed. Less pretentions
though still handsome residences on the
side streets show occasionally a handsome
window garden, a choice bit OI marble or a
sweep of beautiful lace the palaces rarely,
if ever.
Just before Miss Carrie Astor became
Mrs. Orme Wilson three or four years ago
the Astor mansion blossomed out from cel
lar to garret with pane curtains of bridal
white. Every separate window of the big
house's frontage on the streets showed the
sheer muslin, tied back with white ribbons
close to the pane. A week after the wed
ding they had vanished, leaving only the
usual neutral shades. This was a conces
sion to the outside publio as unexpected as
it Was pretty and suitable.
o
Of the three brides of the month in whom
the newspaper world takes especial interest
it is probable that only one of them she
who was Miss Bisland a few days ago is
wholly lost to journalism. Wife, as she is
now, of a man of wealth and position, who
is also a member of Half a dozen fashion
able clubs, mistress of a beautiful city and
country home, and with her own birthright
of rare beauty and exceptional personal at
tractions, Mrs. Charles W. Wetmore, nee
Bisland, can hardly escape a prominent
place in New York society if not actual
leadership. Miss Helen Watterson, the
brilliant author of the "Woman About
Town" column in the Evening Sun, Is now
the wife of a well-known newspaper man
one of the editorial staff of the Recorder
and with her heart thus still in the work
will in a few days again become actively
identified with it in assuming the duties of
an important editorial position, accepted
some time ago.
Mrs. Frank Leslie would find it very dif
ficult to resign, as suddenly as she has mar
ried, the numerous publication and editor
ial responsibilities of which she is the
center. Her prompt avowal, therefore,
that she has no intention of so doing, that
instead her new husband, the talented
London journalist, will at once become as
sociated with her in her various enterprises,
finds ready credence.
o
Something of a novelty in the way of bed
room furnishings are the bureaus and dress
ing tables with brass mounted mirrors.
These look best where the table or chest of
drawers is of ricH dark polished wood like
cherry or mahogany, but they are shown as
well combined with the white maple and
even white enamel articles. The frame and
all the fittings above the slab are of polished
brass, decidedly elesa'nt and effective.
With these facts es.
all eat oleomargarine
tablished. we may
with impunity.
An important point in dinner giving Is
that tho hostess shonld know when to move
A gentleman who had been detained too
long at the table remarked that there is no
material difference amonjr women but this
that one woman has the sense to leave tho
table sooner than another.
Dr. L. M. Holbrook In "Eating for
Strength," recommends wheat cooked like
rice and served with Bugar and cream. Cook
the whole grains slowly until tender enough
to mash between the lingers. During the
boiling process add a little salt to remova
Insipidity. The learned Doctor says this
simple, cheap, nutritious and easily digested
dish requires the 33 Glad3tonian bites for
each mouthful the danger being In eating
lc UDiunsucaiuu.
In making tho popular dish, "onions and
steak," the usual way is to fry the onions
with the steak. A fried steak Is a mistake,
says a celebrated cook. He suggests to fry
tho onions and broil the steak, then serve
the two together.
In servlne dry checso cut It Into small
bites and convey it to the mouth with the
fingers. Spread soft cheese on each mouth
ful of bread and for frothy cheese use a
spoon.
The loin is generally reckoned the finest
part of the beef, callod sirloin from having
been jocularly knightedby Charles IX Two
sirloins make a baron.
There is but one season'of the year, says
Ward McAllister, when salmon snould be
served hot at & choice repast: that is in the
spring and early summer, and even then it
Is too satisfying, not sufficiently delicate.
The man who elves salmon during the win
ter, 1 care not what sauce he serves, does an
injury to himself and his guests. Salmon Is
so rich and has so special a flavor, observes
a specialist on tne fish subject, that when
daily eaten It soon palls on the palate. He
says that the old story of the clause in the
indenture of tho Abordcen prentices, bind
ing the masters not to feed the boys on .sal
mon more frequently than twice a week, if
not true, out to bo, lor full meals of salmon
every day would ere long render tho special
flavor of this otherwise delicious flsh quite
sickening.
In serving oatmeal porridge- the nsnal
method has been to pour tho cream over it;
but we find at some of the our tables that a
low bowl of cream or new milk, ice-cold, ao-
companles the porridge, and into this it Is
dipped by spoonfuls. An epicure in por
ridge says that the cold milk soddtjns it, ard
the not porridge impairs tho flavor of the
milk, making it neither hot nor cold. Corn
meal porridgo, a dainty luncheon dish, will
be lound unusually palatable if served in the
limuuei uunve (1 SCrllJCa. luii eiuti iui
four or five hours, or with less care it may
be steamed. It should bo made smoothly
and not too stiff just about thick enough to
drop off the spoon.
Hints for the Home.
Hew flour makes poor pastry.
Wash tho pudding bag and keep it in a
dry place.
While peeling, coring or cutting fruit
drop into cold water to preservo color.
Pastkt in the hands of an expert will re
quire less butter and will produce lighter
crust than others.
lit making sauces it Is Important that they
should blend and harmonize with tho dishes
they are to accompany.
" To produce a well bakod pie, cake or tart
the heat in the oven must be evenly dis
tributed: nthamtaa .am an nld house
keeper, you will have miniature mountains , I
aim ranieiands on your tarts ana pies.
Eixicz Seetta.
It is a little curious to know how trifling
mannerisms obtain among the initiated.
There is a certain Freemasonry among swell
young women which carries a subtle and un
mistakable knowledge. The way she carries
her hands, for example, when they are un
gloved tells the knowing ones a good deal.
A couple of years ago when the bell-shaped
sleeves were much in vogue, all fashionable
girls let cne hand creep gently up the wrist
of the other it was really amusinsr to mark
how universal this practice was. Following
this came the absolute repose period, which
merged into Delsartean relaxation. During
each of the epochs the girls held their hands
loosely in their laps when seated, or let
them bong with more and more limpness
as one period passed into- tne other, it is
still the fashion among the best informed
to indulge in very little movement with
the hands. Fussing with chatelaine attach
ments, rushing a vinaigrette up to one's
nose, fingering a fan, or twinkling one's
rings all these are tabooed by girls in the
swim.
It is odd how these practices come about.
A reigning belle usually is responsible for
them. Some trick of manner, unconscious
or premeditated, which in her is wonder
fully fetching, is straightway copied by her
intimates and rapidly spreads far beyond
the original circles. Two or three winters
ago one of the season's beauties had a pretty
fashion of spreading out her handkerchiefs,
drawing them through her fingers and look
ing down at the process. In a month all
her set had caught it, and for weeks all
fashionable "buds" and "roses" were
studying cambric incessantly. Then a so
ciety woman of consequence thrust
her handkerchief in her coat sleeve in
lieu of pocket or corsage; another turned
the hand of her Bernhardt clove back into
the loose wrist at a restaurant table rather
than draw it off entirely, and a third, fresh
from London, wrote "town" on her city
notes each notion being quickly and uni
versally copied. Fl6rists say that society
leaders often set the fashion in flowers for
an entire season by appearing once or twice
in the same blossoms. It is true, at least,
that no flock of sheep ever followed the bell
wether more blindly and loyally than does
the world of fashion, its accepted leaden.
And in conclusion it would be s satisfaction
to discover and heap with maledictions th
originator or inventor of the present styls
of hand shaking.
The hands ot the Shakers saw back and
j ' "k arms 'inared at chest elevation,
and when the process is completed tha
hands are released in mid air, and so held
for amoment, gradually assuming a normal
position. If the gods even do not laugh at
this spectacle they have very little sens of
humor.
One blushes occasionally, not often, for
one's sex. A Brooklyn firm advertised
recently that souvenirs would be given to
uu uuies registering at their stores during
a certain week. The management was al
most swamped with the crowds. Twenty
nve thousand women put their names down
between Monday morning and Saturday
night. In the face of this great pressors tht
souvenir had to be rolled pretty thin.
It is a marvel how the sick and those who
cared for them ever endured their burden!
in the days when trained nurses were, if
not unknown, so rare as to be practically
unobtainable. To see for the first time on
ot these women come into a sick room whosa
head has been the anxious relative of th
sufferer and watch how the aspect of thing
changes under her capable sway is a revela
tion. She seems to know just what will
give the patient most relief and what she
does is done quickly and quietly. Is he hoi
and restless she slips a crumb of ice into
his mouth, gently sponges, face and hands,
smoothes the rumpled bed linen and finally
r X n? e?rt on hIs Part has Sot him 0T"
.- .-,. utau p,i,ow ana cool glae of tne Dea
bne evolves order out of the chaos of tha
medicine table; boxes and bottles, cups and
bowls are relegated each to its niche, which
is henceforth its home when not in usej
trays-and stands are covered with spotless
napkins, the light is toned down, the ther.
mometer is set up as an infallible arbiter of
the temperature everything is strength
ened and bettered before your eyes, without,
somehow, the details of the process being
visible. Her skill commands your respect,
and with a wave of relief you resign your
sick to her trained, alert, intelligence againsl
winch your own previous care suddenly
stands out in its awkwardness andinefSci.
cucy.
Housekeepers may he interested to knoir
that some highly polished wood surfaces
like those of pianos and choice furniture
admit of actual washing, according to aa
expert '-Take a sponge," he says, "and
wet rapidly a small portion at a time. The
only care is to avoidleaving it wet and not
to rub the water in by too hard rubbing in
the drying stage. After the sponge has
been used, pass a chamois, wrung out from
water as dry as can be, rapidly over the sur
face, to be succeeded in turn by a dry
chamois. The Bponging removes the grimo
and dust and the chamois brings out the
Eolish. The same expert says the oil used
y piano makers for the high finish of their
instruments ii one part linseed and two
parts turpentine. This can easily be put
together at home and in small quantities.
Black and gold seems a favorite combina
tion in little girls' dresses this autumn. A.
dress of plain black, with gold-colored lines
running over it to form large squares, was
worn over a guimpe of black surah, the
shoulders being tied with permanent flat
bows of two-inch gold velvet
o
A French woman of mora than the al
lotted three score and ten, who is still a
belle, has been putting some of her know
ledge and wisdom concerning women's ways
into print Among other things she sayst
"Blondes who as a rule afiect pale blue ara
wrong in their generation, since a light
shade gives an ashen color to their com
plexion. Dark blue and green are very
becoming, nlso certain shades of crimson.
Yellow worn by candle-light, though not
during the day, is particularly softening to
brunettes, and those of a pale olive color
should be careful in their choice of reds. A
stout woman should avoid short ba-ques and
any eccentricities of dress; should wear few
jewels, no necklaces, only indispensable
rings, eschew any but high coiffures and
never wear tight gloves."
Margaret H. Welch.
THE MAGAZINE EDITOB.
That
One of His Rejected 3InnuorlpU
Afterward Got Into Print.
The magazine with which I am connected,
says a manuscript reader in the New York
correspondence of the St Louis Globe-Democrat,
employed a well-known female writer
to write up an interesting phase of life six
years ago, for which she was to receive a
stipulated sum of money. When her article
was submitted the editor didn't like it and
sent it back, but she fired it back again, de
manded pay and got it The article was
pigeon-holed, and no one thought of it again
until a short time ago, when the editor
resurrected it and had it put in type, forget
ingall about its origin.. It appeared in a
recent number of the magazine, and was dis
cussed by literary people as one of the best
written articles published by the magazin
in question.
Tne editor of another magazine was
attracted by the article, and wrote to tha '
lady asking her to submit matter to
him. The writer appears to be a very
spirited young woman, however, and re
fused to do so, saying that one experienca
with a magazine editor is enough. Sha
says she will never write for them again.
If she did she might become famous. Sha
confines her efforts to newspapers.
A VISIT FBOX WHALES.
Tout of Them Take Possession of tha Co
lnmbia Hirer for Awhile.
Tha people along the Columbia river
thought they were prepared for anything
in the fish line after tha marvelous run of
salmon which has been literally choking tha
river this season, but they were taken aback
the other day when four whales crossed tha
bar and swam up the stream.
They were big fellows, and disported
themselves in a lively manner, owning tha
river for the time being, as the steamboats
were very careful to give them all tha sea
room they wanted. After having all tha
fun and making all the excitement they de
sired, the whales swam back to sea again.
Triumphantly.
Dr. Price's Delicious Flavoring Extracts,
Lemon, Vanilla, etc, have stood the tests of prac
tical use, in a million homes for more than a quar
ter of a century triumphantly, and now are taking
precedence over all other flavoring extracts. They
are justly entitled to the reputation they have estab
lished. For strength, purity, and fine flavor they
are unequalled and can not be excelled.
)
'
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