FOR THE FALLING LEAVES.
Cotamrs Thnt Are in Harmony With tho
Season hen Xnture Prepare Tor Her
XjOn Rest Novelties for In and Oat
Door 'Wear T-ato Fnik
Beauty is looking to the East for the
gowns in which she trill welcome Jack
Frost And the East
is profuse in its
offerings. From
across the sea comes
a demi-scason toilet
br Worth.illustrated
from Harper's Bazar.
The very chic mante
Jet of this costume is
sati
am a
rWs33
mm
w
t'.K
!J
a model for autumn
wraps designed alike
silk
rM'OM
l&M&j&V.'fll'i for driving or walk-
for country or
;fePcit.T
city use. It is a large
wide cape, gathered
below the collar, and
falling thence in full
folds without being
raised on the should
ers; it extends to tho
wrists of the hanging
arms, and is of even
lencth all around.
Demi-Season Ttiilet.
Tho i-nrment illustrated is of deep blue
vigogne, interwoven with gold. A broad
band of black velvet borders the entire
cloak, and is overlaid down the front with
heavy gold passementerie. "Wide white
lace forms deep ruffies around the neck and
covers the front below. The small capote
is of black i el vet. embroidered with gold,
Mid trimmed with black feathers and a pale
blue aigrette.
Another illustration shows a new autumn
mantle reaching almost to the knee. This
Is from 77i Stascn which says this length is
beinj preferred. The stufl used for such
mantles are ol a rough, long-haired texture.
The model was made of coarse, bluish-green
diaeonale trimmed with dark velvet, and
the vofce lined with satin the same color,
a stripe of satin being sew n inside the front
eCges of the mantle. The wide mantle
part is mounted with pleats on the plain
iront voke and gives also the pleeves. The
Medici collar can be turned np or down, as
prefened, and is therefore lined with
t elvet.
IX CASHJIEKE AND VELVET.
A prettv costume for fall wear is shown
in this column. It is called a cashmere and
velvet crstume, and
Iscomposed of atkirt
of light beige-colored
wool, ornamented
witli cmbroiilerv on
the front, and a coat
bodice ot bronze vel
vet with full sleeves
of the luht wool.
The skirt is without
a foundation skirt
but lined through
out. The coat opens
on a full plastron of
the wool, and is
ornamented with
metal buttons and
belt buckle.
A pretty apron is
one of the first
requisites. The one
here shown is just the
thing for afternoon
wear. It is made of
flowered organdy
muslin with a light
ground. A breadth
of muslin 1!0 inches
long forms the apron,
to which is added a
gathered flounce 13 An Autumn JTantle.
inches deep, finished with a hem and two
narrow tucks, and gathered on with a head
ing. Tw o scarfs, seven inches wide anu a
yard and see:i-eishths long, form the bre
telies; these are attached to the corners of
the apron at a yard Jrom the end, this yard
forming the strings; the other end of each is
then crossed to the opposite shoulder, the
two being tacked where they cross, and is
pinned to the shoulder and finished with a
bow of loops.
A novelty in fans is herewith reproduced
from the S-ahon. It is made of gauze on
which rests a gigantic liowcr with ample
foliage, and a second, which will doubtless
be an acceptable mod-l to thos, who are
skilled in the use of brush and pencil. The
broftdish staves are each adorned with a
cardboard niodaillion on which small views
of any favorite spot may be drawn or
A Hovelty in Fhm.
painted, as remembrance of a country tour
or the like. The views can be just sketched
fiuring the journey aid afterward painted
at leisure, and will either way be a wel
come t-ouvenir to the owner, or an accep
table gilt to friends at home.
WHAT FJtANCE IS S.EKDIXG VS.
Trench dresses imported for autumn and
early winter are new-versions of the elab
orate corsages and very plain skirts now in
favor says Harpers' Bazar. Seamless waists,
fancilul coats, princesse gow ns with corse
lets, and bodices trimmed to suggest sus
pender, or with a vest, yoke, plastron, or
guimpe. all reappear, each with some fresh
touch that makes a difference between the
old and the new. Collars arc again cut high,
and are close rather than flaring. There arc
many laney sleeves softly bouffant at the
top. and oild sleeves of velvet or silk are
again seen in wool gowns. Hut the leg-o'
mutton tdee- es still prevail, whether match
ing the wai t or of different material; and
bishop sleev es are made wider than ever, to
droop over close cuffs that are usually richly
trimmed.
The skirts of many new gowns are with
out a foundation. Thev are fitted plainly
at the top, are fnll and long at the back,
and are lined throughout. The French
fkirt ell in one piece, with a bias seam
down the back, is most often Eeen. There
are also many cloth skirts with the back
oreadth set in cornerwise, w-ith a point at
the lop, making a ccam on each side, and
leaving very graceful bias folds down the
back. The newest borders lor the foot of
g
I
i Ml i
fyJ
PS
skirts are widest in front, narrowing gradu
ally to a point in the hack, and tins ac
centuating the appeaiance of length an
effort which, sad . to say, is still sought
alter.
Tailors continue to make Louis coats and
the habit-bodices with postillion back,
which it is 'heir mission to fit with absolute
perfection. "With these are Snede leather
ests in a single piece, fitting as if molded
over the bust, and fastened invisibly.
Leather buttons in barrel shape, or in fiat
disks with metal rims, are on tailor gowns.
AJf AETIST'S LATEST MODEI
A striking new model by Felix is a
"corselet princesse" gown of cloth, with
guimpe ana sleeve
puffs of beng3line
dotted with span
gles. The corselet
comes up high on
the bust and is even
all around the waist;
rr-ft side invisibly, and is
apparently continu
ous with the skirt in
princesse fashion,
but is reallv fitted
separatelv.and where
joining the skirt is
concealed bv em
broidery of silk, gilt,
chenille,and jet done
on the garment.
Lengthwise rows of
this embroidery ex
tend to the foot of
the Bkirt, with ep-
, plique vines and
WT5 Meaves of Astraktui
R .V
.'lv f F .WV.W
or velvet, ana the
if
foot is finished with
abandofthe fur or a
puff of velvet This
Cashmere and Velvet model is handsome
in black cloth with black bengaline guimpe
but may be brightened by a red guimpe
spangled with iet The lining of these
gowns closes in front, as also docs the
guimpe, which is gathered at the neck in
front and back and justlielow whera it dis
appears under the scalloped top of the
corselet. The sleeves are of cloth fitted
easily up to the elbow and half way above
to meet a puff of the bengaline at the top.
A mouse-colored cloth gown of this design
has a bright red bengaline guimpe spangled
with gold. Tiie embroidery is in darker
shades with fine gold threads, and a wide
velvet puff borders the skirt
A graceful gown bv Baudnitz has a very
novel coat bodice showing no seams but
those under the arms, and draped diagon
ally'over the lining both in front and back.
The opening begins on the left shoulder,
and extends bias to the waist line, disclos
ing a puffed vest of silk. The front is short
and in continuous pieces, with pleats on the
shoulders, but perfectly smooth below. The
back has longer coat pieces pleated on, and
is the reverse of the front, being smooth at
top, and laid in bias folds below the arm
holes. The skirt is bell shape with silk
lining.
AX ADJTTSTABrB HOT7SE DI5ESS.
An adjustable house dress is the latest
noeltv. It is the invention of Mrs. Jen-ness-jfiller,
the dress reformer. The design
is intended to cover
the practical needB
of a woman w h o
looks after her own
household. It is
made up, says a
dressmaker in the St
Louis Globe-Democrat,
of aprons and
jackets in such a way
that a woman can be
washing one minute
and sitting in the
parlor entertaining
company the next
It is of rather short
length so that a wo
man can skip up and
down stairs thref
steps at a time, and
by letting down
some aprons re
versing them as it
were and taking oft
a jacket, a neat house
dress, fit for parlor,
is obtained. "The
dress can be made of
calico, gingham,
cambric or of any of
the cheaper goods.
It is one ot the best
Flowered JtaHn
Aporn.
of the many good ideas that Jlrs. Jenness-
Miller has ever conceived. "Women have
needed such a thing for a long time. I
think it will become popular at once, and
it ought to. The idea is as simple as it
could possibly be, and will practically give
a woman two dresses with the use of very
little more material than was formerly used
in one.
SIEIf MIEEIXEES OP VTEXKA.
In describing the men milliners of Vienna
a correspondent of the Baltimore Sun says:
Attendants salute you and wave you up
stairs. Here yoa will find a suite of apart
ments, with divans and easy chairs scattered
all around, and mirrors of all sizes, large
and small, so adjusted that your image is
always reflected, no matter where you sit
One set of customers will be waited on in
one room and another set in another. Cus
tomers, unless so disposed, have no occasion
to come in contact with each other. Men
are alwavs the principals. They take your
orders, they measure you and they lit you.
In each room screens are provided, behind
which the customer tries on her dress, while
her husband or her lover on the other side
of the screen can talk or joke with her to
his heart's content It is really the thing
for the men to go, as there was scarcely a
lady who did not have an escort
In every room great numbers of morning
and evening dresses and wraps ol all Kinds
completely made up re hung on hooks.
"What to a man is but one of the least enter
taining incidents of the routine of the busi
ness as it is carried on in "Vienna is the tor
ture to which the "models" are not infre
quently put by their more favored sisters,
the customers, and the spiteful resentment
which they cannot sometimes help exhibit
ing. The "models," of whom every estab
lishment of any pretention has from 6 to 12,
ate selected for their symmetry of figure,
and must be the possessors of slender waists,
sloping shoulders and finely developed
busts. For the selection of the patrons
they will display on their figures any partic
ular costume which may be requested. As
you can understand, a patron who has no
idea-purchasing will oiten say, "I should
like to see how that gown will look.'tetc,
etc. The unfortunate model will, in the
course of two or three hours, have to put on
and put of morning dresses and evening
dresses, be turned around and round, be
punched in the ribs until her patience is
completely exhausted, and she certainly
will look daggers at the woman who is do
ing all this. She is not unlikely, also, to
give vent in audible tones to her displeas
ure when satisfied that her persecutor does
not understand.
COHNS ccrmancntlv and nnirfclir rnred
by Daisy Corn Cure. 15 cents; of druggists. I
13
Mt&
.PA Ufliffi
m:
V M'l VrT-V
;iw W j
GUESTS OF A CHIEF.
Fannie B. Ward and Party Btorm
Bcrand With the Araucanians.
LIVED ON THE FAT OF THE LAND.
Trinkets and Tinsel Hade Them ForereT
Friends of the b'avajjes.
SOME EEMABKABLE TRIBAL CUSTOMS
tCOXnBSPOSnENCB OF THE DI8PATCH.1
Vaebivia, Chile, Aug. 2T. Our camp
in the Llanista village was arranged with
the ladies' sleeping tent in the center, the
five other tents set close around it, tha
mules and horses tethered at a little dis
tance, where a wooded hillock served as a
break-weather all under the shelter of a
splendid grove of pimento (pepper) trees,
whose drooping branches, covered with
feathery leaves of darkest green and long
bunches of pink pepper-corns, nearly
touched the ground on either side. A
guard of armed servants and muleteers
was posted night and day, and the gentle
men took turns in overseeing the watch.
But our precautions proved to be entirely
unnecessary. "We were never safer In the
midst of civilization than here in the heart
of Araucania, in the unsurveyed wilds of
this distant country; and had any outside
danger menaced us, I believe that the
Indians who considered us their guests and
therefore under their special protection
would have defended us with their lives, if
need be.
COMPELLED TO CAMP LIPS.
It happened that a storm came on a
tnrce days chilly drizzle, common In this
latitude at any time of the year, where a
wet season and a dry, which prevail nearer
the equator, are not'so distinctly defined.
Horseback traveling in the rain, through
an uninhaoitcd district, would have been
extremely uncomfortable; so we were easily
persuaded to remain in camp until the skies
cleared. I have camped in many climes,
under diverse circumstances and picnicked
with all sorts of people but have never
enjoyed such a real "camping out" (the in
tended spirit of which is a return to ab
original life), as here among one of the
most warlike tribes on the face of the earth,
whose ancestors for centuries successfully
resisted civilized arms and Spanish cruel
ties, and maintained their independence in
tact, while all the other nations of South
and Central America fell under the sway of
the conquerers.
The squaws insisted on taking entire care
of the animals, and kept us plentifully sup
plied with cool water from a distant spring
and brushwood for cooking purposes; and
every morning the carcass of a young sheep,
freslily killed and dressed, was brought as
a gift lrom the chief. Knowingthat money
was one of the least desirable things we
could give these kind-hearted barbarians, as
they had no use for the currency ol civiliza
tion, we "got even," to their unbounded
delight, by presents of trinkets, such as
toilet articles, hand-mirrors, buttons cut
from our clothes, sewing materials, silk ties
and handkerchiefs, etc.
DELIGHTING THE SAVAGE HEART.
The articles that appeared to give most
heart-felt pleasure were a mouth organ, a
jewsharp and an accordion, which we pur
chased for the purpose from the muleteers,
my silver snapcase (which the chief im
mediately filled with tobacco and hung
around his neck by a string), and a rose
colored, be-ribboned Jersey undervest,
which thenceforth served his highness'
favorite daughter, a child about 12 years
old, as a costume complete, reaching from
shoulders to knees and being the only gar
ment she wore.
We noticed that when the storm first be
gan, heralded by skurrying clouds and
muttering thunder, the Indians appeared to
be greatly excited, for they knew there was
foing to be another great battle in the sky
etween their dead ancestors and the Span
iards who had killed them. Believing the
thunder to be the latter's cry of fear and
distress, they turned out en masse in the
pouring rain to cheer the wraiths of their
warriors. When the storm began to abate
they watched the skies with utmost anxiety,
for "they have one sure sign by which to
know which side has won the'ghostly battle;
if the clouds move toward the village, the
Indians have been victorious, but if they
move from it, the conquistadores have won,
and everybody is sorrowful. In this in
stance the clouds swept gloriously, full
phalanx, toward the town, and all were
happy. A feast was spread, to which we
were bidden, and dancing and singing (or
rather howlibg) were kept up all night
A FEAST WITHOUT PLEASURE.
I may mention, en passant, that though
we attended the feast, for to remain away
would have been construed as showing
sympathy with the defeated Spaniards and
given deadly offense, are appetites were
not voracious. Chicha, home-chewed of
course, flowed far more abundantly than
water, and stewed puppy figured promi
nently among the delicacies. Thanks, how
ever, to the horde of living canines that
prowled around the squalling circle, and to
our awkwardness both real and simulated
we managed to dispose of all objection
able viands, unnoticed amid the general
hilarity.
The worst time came with the ceremony
of drinking from those human skulls.
Happily, "squaws" of any color are exempt
from the horrible duty, the sex being too
insignificant to be allowed such familiarity
with the lords of Araucania. Wc saw the
gentlemen of our party grow pale and
paler as those time-worn craniums ap
proached, being handed from mouth to
mouth around the circle; but subsequently
everyone of them assured us that though
they lifted the skulls and pretended to
swallow with gusto, their lips touched
nothing. All the Araucanians are extremely
superstitious and attach a signification to
every dream, confidently looking for its
fulfillment
inn dead nr the sunset land.
The Castinoes believe in the literal resur
rection of the body that the dead pass at
once to happy hunting grounds in the far
West where the sun sleeps, and there each
happy Indian has a large tract of land and
all the wild animals he can slay and cat for
ever. When one of that tribe dies his favor
ite horse is killed to accompany him and
all his weapons, utensils and trinkets are
buried with him for use in the Sunset Land.
The friends of the deceased put food on the
grave every night for weeks and when
foxes, wolves and other wild creatures de
vour it during the hours of darkness they
believe that the dead man has eaten it and
is refreshed on his long journey.
The Llanisto are firm believers in Cici a
mythological personage who takes the place
of the Christian's satan a real, living,
walking and talking evil one, as when in
the Garden of Eden he assumed the form of
a serpent and conversed with Grandmother
Eve. It was Cici that caused the ocean at
one time to rise all over the earth; and the
Indians prove it by shells and the bones of
marine animals which may be found high in
the mountains. It is Cici, too, who induces
people to steal and lie and murder. A
Llanista accused of theft is always granted
a hearing. Hearsay evidence or circum
stantial won't do; there must in every case
be two eye witnesses to establish the guilt
of the ott'ender.
STORY OF A MISSING MOUTH ORGAN.
During our stay in the camp the precious
mouth organ changed hands. The Indian
to whom we gave it in return for some ser
vice, and who prized it as the apple of his
eye, missed it one morning from among his
treasures. His transports of grief and rage
induced the entire village to join in the
search. At least it was discovered hidden
nnder a pile of skins in the hat of another
brave. Circumstantial evidence was rather
strong against the latter, but as nobodysaw
him steal it during the hours of darkness,
it was taken for granted that Cici had per
petrated the mischief.
In a case wheic the two eye witnesses are
THE PITTSBURG DISPATCH,
forthcoming, the thief is not puniseed but
is required to return the stolen articles un
jured; or, if that is impossible, to pay their
full value to the injured party. If te
thief is unable to pay, his friend must pay
for him; and if they will not or cannot do
so, then the friends of the looser may 'take
it out of the culprit in deadly combat He
is challenged to fight the strongest man
among them; and if the thief should happen
to kill his adversary he is completely vindi
cated, his success being conclusive evidence
that he is not guilty and that a mistake has
been made in accusing him, and if he seeks
revenge by murdering the "eye-witnesses"
nobody interferes with him.
SOME ODD DOMESTIC CUSTOMS.
It is lawful among all the Araucanians
for a man to have a many wives as he likes,
and the established rule is that each day
every wife shall give her husband a dish of
food, prepared at her own fire. Therefore
the number of fires in each hut indicates
the number of wives, and the polite way of
ascertaining the size of a warrior's harem is
to ask him the number of fires in his house.
A woman about to become a mother is com
pelled to flee to some place where is water
and strict seclusion, and there to endure her
time of trial entirely alone. When she
starts on this journey she flings a stone at
the sun, if it is shining, or at the moon or a
bright star, if it be in the nizht time, pray
ing, "May my child be as bright as thou
art, and may my suffering be as swift as the
flight of this stone."
Soon as the baby is born she bathes it and
herself in the cold stream.no matter how
inclement the weather, and then returns to
her home. But even then her trials are
hardly begun, for, instead of finding friends
to receive and care for her, the house is de
serted husband, mother, everybody, hav
ing gone elsewhere. Even the furniture.
such as it is, the cooking utensils, food
everything except some skins for her to lie
on, and a new suit of clothes have been re
moved. For eight days rhe must remain
there alone, to live or die, starve or feed
herself, as best she can, when her friends
return. Then there is great rejoicing, and
the baby is named with ceremony gener
ally after some bird, flower or animal and
a perioa ot leasting ensues.
HOW CHILDREN MUST BUFITIB.
The ice-cold bath which the infant has re
ceived in the stream upon whose banks he
was born, is an appropriate commencement
to his carerr of hardships He is firmly
bound to a board, so that he can conven
iently be set up in a corner, and his oold
bath continued daily, without fire and with
but a scanty allowancs of clothing. In order
to make him hardy he is compelled through
put babyhood to sleep out of doors in all
kinds of weather, and is never given a
mouthful of meatr thongh the dogs may
sneak into the fire and are generally well
fed. Should the lad become too fat of his
vegetable diet his friends at once take him
in hand He is sent on a very long errand,
on which he if required to be fleet, and if he
does not run fast enough he is pursued by
trained runners, who prick him with sharp
thorns and bits of bone, to let the blood out
so that he may run faster. He is then de
nied salt, as his parents believe it is that
which makes him heavy. If the poor child
diesof exposure or this ordeal, the relatives
rejoice that he has so soon become a happy
bumble-bee, which is infinitely better tnan
to have grown up a sickly Araucanian. It
is the survival of the fittest, and the urchin
who thrives under such harsh treatment
(and most of them do) soon commences his
education. The great school-master is the
mischevous Cici. When the lad arrives at
the proper age he is taken every day to
some dark recess, and there the Evil one
teaches him the art of public speaking.
This exercise is kept up until ho becomes a
man and has learned how to appear well be
fore an audience according to Araucanian
ideas and to entertain the wise men with a
fine flow of language. The education ends
here.
TBICKS OF MEDICINE MEN.
It is believed that all sickness is due to
witches, and sometimes, when the afflicted
is rich in squaws and ponies, and the
medicine mau dejiresa fat fee, he decides
upen a wonderful surgical operation. The
doctor, bending over the patient, with a
blanket covering them both and shielding
them well from view, proceeds to remove
the sick man's stomach, heart, Jungs, liver
and bowels, in search of the poisen adminis
tered by the witch. He always finds it af
ter a long search, and shows to the patient
and his astonished friends a lizzard's tail,
which is considered the most deadly poison,
and which he claims to have found secreted
in one of the vital organs. Then he calls
upon the friends to witness the fact that,
though he "has just cut the man open and
turned him inside cut, as it were, not a
trace of the wonderful operation remains, so
that the man is not only free from poisen,
but perfectly healed and as sound as before.
In Araucania the evil one teaches doctors
many skillful tricks In slight of hand, such
as changing noses with people, taking out
the eyes and vital organs without pain, and
of thrusting a sharpened stick clear through
the stomach of any individual. The last
named trick is said to be performed in full
view of all the people, to their unbounded
admiration, and the man who has learned to
do it is a complete graduate from Cici's col
lege, and an honor to his tribe and genera
tion. Fannie B. Ward.
UP, GTJABDB, AND AT THEHI
A Stirring Appeal to Bleeding; Kansas to
Wield the Tar and Feathers.
MoWlsEcglstPr.
Bise, ye Ocalaltes, rise in your might and
wrath and revenge the indignities offered in
Kansas to your great head-center, the puis
sant Folk of North Carolina! Appeal to
Adams to boycott the telegraph which
announces that President Polk has gone
back on his Confederate record and
has sustained the cotton-picking proc
lamation of the Negro Alliance!
"Up at once and form your brigades to march
to the rescue of your chief, who is in immi
nent danger of being tarred and feathered
by citizens of the great Alliance State, the
battleground of old John Brown, the home
of Peffer and Simpson 1 What Is
Brother Adams doing while red re
bellion stalks thrhugh Kansas? Let
him go at once to the rescue
and burn his arm off close to his heart in
defence of his anointed lawgiver. Where is
the valiant Kolb? Is there no arm raised,
no voice heard to intercede against the
bucket of tar and bag of feathers? Now is
the time Ocalaitcs, to show your grit Your
great chieftain is in danger of being tarred
ana leatnerea in tne home ol nis friends.
O, Kansas I bleeding Kansas I lovely land
of Ossawatamie Brown and Quantrell, we
hope that you will tar 3nd feather every
mother's son of them who forgets thai he is
a Southern man and regrets the patriotism
which urged him to honorable action I
Upon every apostate head of them,
pour your bucket of tar and ornament
their degraded bodies with the down
from the Kansas goose ! Teach them
that when they league with negro bandits,
and when they fawn upon political enemies
and make apologies as traitors, that they
can receive no respect from the meanest of
mankind. Teach them that there is no
safety, no decency, no respect, no honor for
a Southern man except at home and in the
strong arms of the Democratic party, that
noble old party whose shield has covered
the heart ot the South since the day we fell
at the foot of the conqueror.
FORGIVENESS.
My heart was galled with bitter wrong,
Revengeful feelings Area my blood;
I broodod hato with passion strong
"While round my couch black demons
stood:
Kind Morpheus wooed my eyes in vain,
My burning brain conceived a plan!
"Itevenge!" I cried. In bitter strain.
But Conscience whispered, "Be a man."
Tortfve!" a gentle spirit cried,
I yielded to my nobler part
Uprose, and to my foe I hied
Forgave him freely from my heart;
The big tears from their fountain rose,
Ho melted, rowed my friend to be;
Tl.at night I sank in swoet repose
And dreamed that angels smiled on me.
Coimv, Fa., September 12. O. Joires.
SUNDAY. SEPTEMBER 27.
BEAUTY IN THE HOME.
Fads and Fancies That Are Just
Now the Eage in Decorations.
HEW TRIMMINGS FOE WINDOWS.
Architects Will NotFinish Woodwork TOen
- - tie Good Time Comes.
THE WHIMS OP WOMEN AND BUSINESS
PTROM THE UFBOLSTZnXB.l
The new things which are being shown
this fall are full of surprises, although most
of them are reproductions of quaint old
things that have been used for ages past. The
demand for accurate styles has encouraged
manufacturers to employ discriminate de
signers, who have evolved all that is unique
of past epochsj but while these pieces are
delightfully fashioned, it is pitiable to note
how improperly and inappropriately they
are utilized.
Baccarat tables can be bought In common
place shops, by commonplace people, who
do not understand anything more dense
than casino; English teatables are poked
into corners of rooms where tea is never
drank, and jewel cases are displayed in par
lors more's the pity.
A girl with hysterical art tendencies got
married last week. It was one of those long
engagements that usually leaves a girl
Between Bracket for Brte-et-Brca.
withered and peevish, and the man worse a
bachelor than ever, but which fortunately
in this case wound up in a splice. When
they went to housekeeping the young bride
had her bedroom papered with envelopes
that Jim had addressed to her, and there
were enough of them to cover all the walls.
For a frieze she used a deep blue blotting
paper, spattered in all colors of ink. The
man doesn't live who has the hardihood to
upbraid a woman who keeps ever before
him such reminders of all he ever said and
promised her.
In most old-fashioned houses there are
plenty of unsightly corners and nooks, the
result of additions and changes; and these
to the decorator are frequently the source of
delightful whims. An alcove we recently
noticed was reduced in height by fretwork,
side and top, and provided with a corner
divan. The walls were treated with a
paper, different entirely from the contigu
ous room, which was cream with touches of
brown, for the alcove showed its walls
aglow with deep pink, as thongh from the
reflection of a heavy, red-shaded standard
lamp. The effect upon entering the room
and getting a glimpse of this alcove was
very pleasing, and at first sight was attrib
uted to the lamp.
Folks have become surfeited of late years
with cornices and curtain poles, and it is a
relief to this conventional form of window
treatment to discover anything like the
sketches here reproduced. One very clever
arrangement is effected by the curtain rod
between two brackets which are utilized for
displaying bric-a-brac. Another form is
by simply applying io the abrupt corners a
simple scroll design in brass or wood as
shown.
The old-fashioned way of hanging a pict
ure is by cords or wire; but the new way of
doing it is by introducing trailing vine ef
fects made in wire and metal, much in the
Carnen Dona in Scroll.
same realistic way that some years, ago the
women folk made wax ivy vines. The wire
instead of being harsh and metallic-looking,
is colored the green of verdure, and on
shooting from it are leaves and buds.
Muslin curtains are now being shown
with blaok'lace insertions in the open' bor
der. A novel thing also is an ecru net em
broidered over in silk. Chenille curtains
instead of being of solid fabrio from top to
bottom are now relieved by a broken net
work pattern in the form of a dado or
frieze.-
Someone has said that "nature abhors a
straight line, except in morals," and things
decorative would seem to justify that ob
servation, for the prim little brass or iron
bedstead is not put now with its head to the
wall and its feet in the center of the room,
but, on the contraryit is pushed into the
corner and over it is fashioned a tentlike
canopy of chintz or muslin or cretonne.
It seems a pity to paint over the hard oak
work of a room, but that this is becoming a
common custom is shown by the fact that
manufacturers of curtain poles are now
furnishing them in tints from the palest
and softest of rose hues and cream to the
deep olive greens. The time wil,l come be
fore long when architects will realize that
they should no more finish the woodwork of
a house than they should finish the walls,
for folks are becoming impressed with the
propriety of having things harmonize and
yellow woodwork certainly does not com
bine, to the best advantage, with any or all
colors which may be found in a new oc
cupant's furniture coverings or draperies.
There's a lot of humbug about this
anenlo agitation. An importer of English
cretonnes sold some niece eoods to a Boston
"firm at the time when Boston was dancing
in white fury over arsenical horrors. In a
few weeks the goods were returned to him,
i I
189L
having been analysed by a Boston chemist,
who found that "they contained arsenic.
The New York man promptly sent them to
the Columbia College, where Prof. Chandler
decided that they were entirely free
of arsenic. Now what con one think?
A very pleasing wall treatment that is an
absolute novelty is nothing more nor less
than, silk cord fringe suspended from a
molding which runs around the wall at the
base of the frieze. A startling effect in wali
treatment was shown recently in a room
30x30 feet and 14 feet high. Where the
ceiling and walls met they merged in a cove,
unadorned simply a curved meeting of
walls and ceiling. The coloring of the en
tire room, sides and top, wa? in ivory, the
ceiling was of a lighter shade, and the only
decoration was the decoration of this cove,
whicli had a detached design of scroll work
running about 2 feet up and 2 feet wide,
and applied at equal distances around the
room, separated by about a yard of space
between each.
"Do you know," said a dealer, the other
day, that it it were not for women's whims,
the trade at large would be at a standstill?
There is novreason 'in the world why a
woman should feel a shock at the sight of
last winter's garments, but nine out of ten
of them do, for they all know what's old
Etyle; especially if they live in cities and
mingle with the shopping throng. We sell
over the counter thousands and thousands
of yards of stuffevery season, not because
what we sold last year is worn out. but
because it is 'old style;' in other words,
the woman is tired of it' Andevery year, if
you've noticed, you'll recollect they develop'
some new industrial whims. You can remem
ber you are not so old when every woman
in the United States was at work on wax
flowers, they took a pride in being indus
trious for what woman is contented with
being simply supported and wax flower
decorations were, for the time being, their
whim. You can remember, too, when they
jumped into the 'God Bles Our Home' sort
of work on perforated cardboard; then they
all took a turn in gathering ferns and tieing
them with ribbons, or making card cases of
lamp lighters or braided paper; then all
hands made macrame tidies; enamel paint
ing was one of the latest fads, and now they
are all buying plain wood cabinets to daub
over and 'decorate.'
"I got an order last month,"he continued,
"to make a frame for a chair. The woman
who wanted it had seen a picture of it some
flace or other, and wanted one just like it
charged her 522 for the framo, and she
paid it without a murmur; Bhe then started
in and covered part of it herself and got
part of it covered by an unholsterer, and
now, no doubt, the piece is exhibited as
'the chair mamma made,' but which cost
mamma about four times as much as she
could have bought the same thing for in
regular stock."
THE GAME OF LtTBB.
AJfeif Pastime That Is the Fad Amonjc
the Young People In England.
Pan Mall Budget
"A Traveler" describes a new game for
the benefit of those who do not wish to be
unconscious players at it It is played, the
correspondent says, in railway trains or
any public place, "and I can best explain it
by giving my own experience. I was alone
in a first-class carriage when two young gen
tlemen and their three sisters, as I suppose,
entered. I learned from their conversation
that they supposed we should pass a certain
station where they intended on their way to
leave a parcel. 1 thought it would he civil
to tell them that we had already passed it
They thanked me most courteously, and the
gentleman who had first mentioned the
parcel made a pencil mark on his cuff.
Shortly after that one of the young ladies
asked her brother the time, and as none of
the party seemed to have a watch, and were
very much out in their guesses as to what
the hour was, I again ventured, though a
man of few words, to tell them what I
thought they really wanted to know. Again
I noticed that the young lady who had first
asked the time furtively made a mark on
her cuft
"My fellow travelers seemed to know so
little about the route we were taking that,
out ot pure kindness, I interposed several
more times; and whenever I did so they
thanked me most profusely, and I observed
that some one either wrote on his or her
cuff or scored something down elsewhere.
Presently they divided some money among
themselves. I have since discovered that I
was the victim of the game of 'lure.' The
game is a simple one. The players take it
in turns to start a conversatson strictly
among themselves with a view to inducing
a stranger to break into it Tho points are
any sum agreed upon. If the lure takes
effect, all the players pay the starter. If it
fails the starter pays the players. If the
lnrc takes effect, "but the person lured
answers wrong, the starter is paid double.
All the players are bound to support the
starter. I learned this afterward."
WHAT TEE PALLIUM IS.
A. White Woolen Band Blade From the
Coats of Two Sacred Lnmbs.
Mllwnkee "Wisconsin.
The pallium, such as was conferred on
Archbishop Katzer, is a white woolen band,
about two inches wide, and long enough to
be worn around the shoulders and be crossed
in front It is made at Borne from the
wool of two lambs which the sisterhood of
Santa Agnese offer every year on the occa
sion of the feast of their patronal saint,
while the Agnus Dei is sung at mass. The
pallium has crosses worked upon the white
wool in black, and ornaments are attached
to the ends.
It is sent by the Pope to every newly
appointed Archbishop, and the origin of its
use for this purpose dates back to a very
early time in the history of the Church. It
is mentioned in an ecclesiastical document
of the time of Pope St Mark, who died in
the year 336, and an eighth century mosaic
represents Pope St. Leo in the act of re
ceiving a pallium almost like the one con
ferred upon Archbishop Katzer.
BOILING LOBSTEBS ALIVE.
A Cruelty Worthy or the .Dark Ages That Is
Still Practiced bv Gourmets.
St Irfjnls Globe-Democrat.
It is singular how the cruel practice of
boiling lobsters alive continues. Our fore
fathers and, indeed, our parents let calves
bleed slowly to death, on the theory that in
no other way could white meat be secured,
and later on calves were bled one day and
killed the next Now every one knows that
a calf can be killed in a human manner, and
the veal made just as good. Hogs are
largely killed by electricity instead of by
the old barbarous method, and, generally
speaking, animals killed for food have been
put out of the way in a much more humane
manner than formally.
But lobsters are still tortured out of ex
istence, the only difference being that, while
formerly they were exclusively boiled to
death, now some are boiled and some
broiled. Which process causes the most
agony no one can say.
A HOVEL WOEK BASKET.
The Pretty Trifle Mrs. Georgo Gould Made
of Handkerchiefs.
Syracuse Star.
I had a peep into Mrs. George Gould's
work basket last week, and she was busy
making pillow cases for the little white
silk-covered pillows on whichher baby,
Marjorie Gwynne, nestles her little brown
curly head when the sleepy time comes.
I never saw anything so dainty as the lit
tle 12-inch-square covers, and what do you
suppose they were made of? Cambric
handkerchiefs, exquisitely embroidered,and
with the monogram M. G. G. wrought in
the corner. Each cover was made of two
handkerchiefs, joined on three sides with a
narrow lace insertion, and the fourth side,
which formed the bottom, was frilled with
deep lace to match.. Mrs. Gould originated
the idea, and her baby was the first to own
a set of handkerchief pillow cases.
AGGREGATE BEAYEET
On Lake Chautauqua's Shores Differs
From Individual Bravery.
THAT'S WHTDEESS EEFOEM FAILS.
Importance of Putting Art Works of Merit
Before Youthful Eyes.
NEW PADS AND FANCIES FOR THE SEX
fwuiriM rou Tire dispatch.
'Evidently the Chautauqua dress re
formers are not yet ready to make their
concerted movement The enthusiasm of
the gathering by the shore of the pretty
lake in Western New York was probably
lump enthusiasm; now that it is broken
into pieces and scattered it will not again
solidify. Certainly no smallest bit of the
leaven seems to have got into New York or
Pittsburg. The theaters are filling up with
home audiences, and there is no hint of
austere reform in the pretty and elaborate
toilets seen in box and parquet.
In point of fact it is going to be an ex
tremely difficult matter which these ladies
of Chautauqua have undertaken. Granted
that they are able to persuade womankind
en masse to adopt the nniform costume sug
gested, in a week the blondes would be
adding "a touch of blue," the brunettes
just a suspicion of red; the tall would dis
cover a need for a "hint of drapery," and
the short some lines to increase their
height," the stout would want "this altera
tion" and the slight "that addition." In a
brief time all uniformity would be gone and
the dress reform costume, if met by its
mother, would not be recognized. You see
women have been cultivating their love of
millinery and fine effects in clothes for a
number of generations, and the
instinct is too strong to be eliminated save
through an age of suppression. And that
"age" is going to be a very trying time to
the reformers.
This view of the case is in regard to the
extreme measures suggested by the inaugu
ratord of the new crusade. TheTe has been
a marked and valuable reform in woman's
dress within the past quarter of a century.
Women dress with much more regard to
comfort and hygiene than formerly. Our
grandmothers minced along in paper soled
shoes and skirts that were balloons in cir
cumference from enormous crinoline; they
knew nothing of the advantages of the
union suits of fine wool and silk which now
clothe most women ifrom neck to ankles;
skirt supporters were not in vogue; the cor
sets of olden days were cruel, ponderous
things as unlike the supple, feather
boned stays of to-dav as possible,
and short skirt3 for the street
were simply unheard of. Every woman's
gown trailed all around, and when, some 20
years ago, some modiste originated a suc
cession of stiff little festoons about the
bottom of dress skirts, like lambrequins in
upholstery, that kept the garment clear of
the ground, everybody thought the mil
lenium had come. To-day short skirts are
almost universal; they have invaded the
ball room as well as the promenade, and
trains yards long are confined to brides and
dowagers. Women wear broad-soled, low
heeled stout boots, with splatter dashers for
stormy weather. Many of them have al
ready discarded corsets, and few women
who wear them lace with the zeal with
which they are accredited. Fashion and
good taste have set their paces against the
wasp waist It is in two ways not "good
form." Mrs. Jenness-Miller and Mrs. Bus
sell have done much good work for their
sex in the matter of dress, but' it is a very
open question if we need to make frights of
ourselves as these last reformers are trying
to persuade us.
Originality runs riot in these days. There
is such an effort to secure or invent a nov
elty that everything, artistic sense, the fit
ness of things and divers other virtues are
sacrificed to it. Open work plates,perhaps,
are not atrocities in their simple form; in
deed some of them are very pretty, but
when they become complex, L e., combined
with ribbon, they cease to attract At a re
cent dinner the soup was served In plates
through whose open border ran silk ribbon,
a bow plumping itself where the ends met!
Shades of propriety and consistency, where
were ye?
Bicycle fashions are becoming a distinct
department A golden rule for women
'cyclists is that which is rigorously fol
lowed by a thoroughbred horsewoman: Al
low no loose ends. Have everything about
your toilet secure. Loosely done hair,flying
nbDons, unnecessary iarueiows oi any sort
are to be tabooed. The new "enclosed"
skirt is specially adapted for wheeling. It
is a petticoat with the lower edges
sewn together. An opening is left to
slip the feet though. The gar
ment is put on a shirr string at the waist
and is a complete protection for various
athletic sports, rowing, tennis, mountain
tramps and bicycling. It should be men
tioned that this skirt requires considerable
more fullness than an ordinary petticoat,
as, being held at the knees, there must be
room for free movement of the limbs. No
other skirt is worn over this, and its exist
ence is not suspected from appearances.
The gathering in at the knee is allowed for
by extra length, and the effect is that of an
ordinary skirt with the bottom loosely
turned up.
o
The use of ropes of flowers winding in and
about the table service and garlands festoon
ing from statuettes or candelabra seems to be a
distinctive feature of dinnerparties at the
present moment The low center pieces
had become monotonous, high ones are stiff
and unsightly, screening the company from
one another the present style seems to be
a happy medium combining the advantages
of both designs.
How many house mothers say at spring
and fall housecleaning times anent some
shabby, broken down bit of furniture: "Oh,
take that up into the nursery," or "it will
do for the children's play room." It is such
a sad mistake. It is educating the children
A
FACT
true fruit, free from ethers, poisonous oils and strong,
'rank taste. They are natural flavors, obtained by a
new process, which gives the most delicate and grate
ful taste. Insist upon having Dr. Price's. Substitutes
are often recommended because they afford a better
profit
13
to be untidy, careless and unappreciatlve of
the beautiful. Make your children's room
the daintiest in the house even if it is very
inexpensive. If putting n sreat " f1
pensive picture on the walls of your parlor
means having none on the nursery walls, by
all means leave the parlor bare, or at least
divide the price between the two rooms.
The nursery should be sunny and cheerful;
it should be scrupulously neat and whole
some; it should have matting instead of
caroets, or better still, a hard-wood floor.
There should be a window box of bright
hued, easy "rowing flowers, and above all
there should be pictures, good pictures, too.
A child's taste is very tractable; he will
soon admire graceful outlines if he seems
them constantly.
An ideal nursery seen recently was a sunny
room with a hard-wood floor on which wersj
gay rugs, easy to keep frea of dust, this
walls painted a delicate tint, with a wood
dado three feet high running around the
room. Into this at intervals were inserted
behind glass to keep them from prying lit
tle fingers pictures artistically drawn, repre
senting the familiar Mother Goose rhymes.
A less expensive method for a most satis
factory nursery gallery is to take the often
fine copies of noted originals that are con
tinually found in the best illustrated week
lies. Such mounted on a sheet of bristol
uuaru wiiii nie margin giiueu w icii. v "
or neatly tacked unmounted on the wall
with upholstery tacks, make an effective
showing and admit of frequent variety.
o
The three-quarter capes, so popular in tha
spring, arc rather resigning their placs
among the cloth garments, but they are dis
tinct fall novelties in furs. This is a blow
to the long triumphant fur shoulder cape,
which ought to be hailed with delight by
every friend "to woman's fine appearance.
Those wretched little coachmen's capes wera
convenient, and that was alL The'y wera
never graceful, and never suitable for a
winter garment Physicians agree that
they were really dangerous overheating
the neck, chest and shoulders, and leaving
the lower chest and back unduly exposed.
These new deep capes, circling the figure
just below the hips, are extremely hand-
some and graceful, and are suitable fur gar
ments, affording ample protection.
Women often complain that the velvet
strap and bow worn under the chin with
the small capote or cottage bonnet dis
colors the throat The best modistes lin
velvet with thin white silk.
Something of a novelty for a child's party
seen recently was a wooden frame. It
looked like one fold of an old-fashioned
clothes horse detached and mounted on two
small pieces of wood for foundations gilded
all over to add to it3 effect, upon the cross
piece of which were suspended by cords of
unequal length and about 18 inches apart,
four or five prizes done up in tissue paper.
To each child was given a pair of scissors,
and it was instructed to make an effort to
walk in the direction of the frame and snip
a prize. About 15 prizes were providedfor
a company of 45 children, that proportion,
it was decided, would achieve success. At
the same party the bonbons were npt served
with the supper, but were put in llttla
white boxes, tied with blue ribbon for tha
boys and pink for the girls, and passed to
the children as they let; the house.
o
Bound dinner tables are finding favor
again. Bonbons for dessert, cream wal
nuts, crystallized apricots and cherries are
served in tinted paper cups which match tha
table decorations.
o
A real prayer rug, one which has beea
actually knelt upon by a devout Mussul
man and an actual Japanese hari-kari
sword, mako a pair of spicially desired
relics to the fashionable bric-a-brao hunter.
Makgarbt H. Welch.
HOW HZ CAME TO DIE.
A Tombstone on 'Hhlca the Dead Is rto
tared In tho Act of Suicide.
rWRCTTEX TOR TITE DISPATCH.
There is a remarkable tombstone in Bound
Grove Cemetery, sevenmiles east of Dwight,
111. It marks the last resting place of
Enoch, son of James EL and Charloot Mor
ris, who died August 9, 1807, aged 19 years
and 3 months. The tombstone is of white
marble, about five feet high, three feet
wide and half a foot thick. Oa
its front is the figure of a youth
in the act of blowing out his brains. It it
brought out in relief, and below it is tht
following inscription:
Beneath this stone the ashes lay
or him that was my darling boyi
Alas, alas, his race is run,
Caused by a douDle-barrel gun.
Bereavements sure my heart will break.
Show pity. Lord, for mercy sakel
Oh, let me to Thy will resign
These two unfortunate boys of mine.
Remembers nil Wire Was an Actreu.
There is a bit of romance about the nam
ing of the last Gould baby. Tho other two
children are sturdy little lads of 5 and 3;Klng
don, the eldest, bears his mother's family
name, and Jay is called for his grandfather.
When the brown-eyed girl baby camo
George Gould claimed the-privilcge of nam
ing her, and he called her Marjorie Gwynne,
for the character which his wife personated
the first time he ever saw her.
I Off i I
It is an established fact that
the only natural flavors in the
market are Dr. Price's De
licious Flavoring Extracts.
Each flavor "is made from the
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