THE AGE OP NOVELTIES.
Odd Ideal In Dres That Flease the Fair
The Outfit For the Autumn Brides
What tho SUllinen Offer The Latest
Notions.
There is no end to the novelties offered
for the ladiest Pelerines are now offering
the design herewith
illustrated for young
ladies. It leaves an
opening for the high
sleeve puff, and fast
ens below it, so as
to fit flat round the
shoulders. "We have
seen the whole cos
tume madcln finely
checked woollen
stuff, end plain
cloth; as well as in
checked gingham
combined with a
strong twilled pri nt,
aud we thought both
equally useful and
pretty for cool, or
u-.irmer weather.
-JStef K?f t-c Tht SrntnrL Thp
Sgl Sfl- gentleman's shirt
front with cravat is
now thought verv nice for promenade
dresses; but for more elegant wear it may
be repl.ic!:d br a surah or muslin chemisette.
Another illustration of this article shows
s costume most uncommon andpeculiar. it
Is a decided noveltv and might be called a
momentarv freak of fashion, not worthy of
notice, did we not know it to be a great
favorite with young ladies. The good-fitting
Wrt rmi br wnrn with anV short, or lone-
wais'td "bodice, and is composed of two
"breadths. The stuff is taken on the bias to
make it fall better. The skirt is hemmed
at the lower edce and fastened, apparently,
at the side with straps of passementerie
braid and buckels. The blouse shown is of
lilao foulard wom with a skirt of beige
cloth, and has chemisette parts set in front,
and full backs mounted on a square yoke.
The full sleeves are caught into a long
gauntlet cuff. The waist belt and bretelles
of passementerie, the color of the blouse
complete the costume.
A IXSSOIT ET SLEEVES.
To turn to the more practical side of fash
ion work, we have illustrated here a good
t fnr alt.rlnf. A
dUpth trroxen rr.
shabby or old
fashioned. Over a
silk sleeve finished
off with a
gathered gauntlet,
is put a second one
cut shorter and of
another stuff, such
as damask, plush
and bo forth, but
of the same color.
It U then joined to
the silk sleeve
along the inner
seam an d at the arm
iiole,6o that it hides
this as far as the
gauntlet The outer
team is left open
and caught together
with bows of rib
bon, as seen.
A group of hate
find bonnets is il
lustrated herewith, the pictures being taken
from the Season. The first of the four is a
bonnet of transparent straw. A strap 2Jf
inches wide, of a figured straw border, sup
ports the front of the flat shape. The trim
ming is of dark auriculas and bows of black
ribbon velvet 1 inches wide. The second
chows a bonnet with wide crape
itrincs. The flat wire shape is covered with
gold lace. Over the strap 1. inches deep,
supporting the shape in front, is arranged a
stripe of pale lilao crepe de chine 2 yards
Jcng, pleated close as far as the back, where
tho ends are crossed and then brought for
ward, and tied once under the chin. Bou
quets of violets trim the-bonnet A round
hat of white tulle is also shown. The outer
adge of the wire shape with low crown and
straight brim is trimmed with straw braid
IJi inches wide, woven with gold. Gold
beaded white tulle is draped over the crown
and brim as seen. A white feather ruche
1J inches wide, finished off in front with a
feather tip, trims the crown. The brim is
caught up at the back with two small feath
ers and a tuft of tulle. The fourth is a round
hat of double straw. The brim is 15 inches
large and made of two-sided straw, the out
side being white, the inside black, but the
Email 6omewhat pointed crown entirely of
white straw. The trimming is of pink
corded silk ribbon 2Jf inches wide, covering
the turned-up part of the brim, with a stiff
strap, widening from J to 1 inches, and
bows, arranged as seen, interrupted by a
ouquet of wild roses and a wreath of heath
'jlossom. ast autumn weddeto toilet.
Elegant white lampas, the richest of all
brocades, form the front of the bridal
dres3, shown in these columns, while the
back is ot ivorv pean de soie, says Harper'
Bazar. Lace, long garlands of orange flow
ers, and bands of white ostrich feathers are
the Garniture. The skirt has a long prin-
cesse tram of peau de soie; the iront of
lampas is separated irom the tram on tne
left oy a.plcated panel of lace, on which
For Outdoor Games.
rests a garland of orange blossoms. The
pointed corsage is draped with lace drawn
in pleats that are crossed with another band
of lace, supporting an o ranee garland which
(tarts on the right shoulder. The long
sleeves of peau de soie are Blashed and
pie (t ! at the top, and given height by a
pou' ni 1 'ce drann down to a small bunch
cffli.vn n. A frill of lace drops on the
LtL'l irom under a narrow cuff. The collar
is i. huh trill of lace held by a bunch of
blossoms. A wide band of ostrich feathers
borders the entire skirt Long veil of a
tingle piece of tulle attached tn tb hnir htr
e, slight pouf and a cluster of orange flowers. j
igwaiC
ft!SJWS:
22
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rimmm'SLimey
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JMJ- 111
The popular fabrics for autumn wedding
dresses in If ew York are pearl white satin
thick enough to stand alone, lighter peau
de soie, heavily repped Moscovite silk, and
the sumptuous brocade called lampas, says
Harper's Bazar. The trimmings are inher
ited lace, or .my of the real point laces that
are now in vogue, as point d Alencon, point
de Vcnise and the guipure which is called
Bruges point. Applique lace is again in
favor in new Empire designs of vines, fes
toons and borders, as well as the usual
sprigs. English brides wear Honiton,
Mechlin and Brussels lace in flounces, and
also as trimmings for veils. Paillettes, or
spangles, ofapearl or of silver are on net
and passementerie ornaments for brides'
dresses, and similar garniture is brightened
with i'ansian diamonds so well cat mat
they can scarcely be distinguished from
genuine stones. Chiffon will still be used
tor trimmed dresses, and Is preferred with a
border"or edge of lace. Orange blossoms in
small bouquets aud in long sprays are again
used in profusion. Many small, ostrich tips
closely massed with the curling tips at the
top form a trimming for the front of skirts,
while a ruche of feathers borders the train.
SIMPLICITY IS AX OBJECT.
The richest materials are made up with
studied simplicity. The princesse style is
in favor for dresses entirely of satin or silk,
Autumn Wedding Tbilet.
but when two fabrics are combined, only
the back, with long flowing train, is cnt in
continuous princesse breadths. The front
of the waist may be round or pointed, or it
may have a corselet or coat effect. For
church weddings the bodice is made very
high in the neck, with extremely long
sleeves, the latter in Empire shajie, wide at
the top, without height, or else slashed and
filled in with lace or chiffon. An open
square-necked corsage is now worn at home
weddings, and the sleeves have the graceful
Marie Antoinette flounce of lace or chiffon
gathered at the elbow.
A tulle veil envelops a bride so becom
ingly that it is often preferred to the shorter
veil of lace. It is a single square of tulle
of great size, specially fashioned for veils.
A good plan is to take it cornerwise, round
ing the corner that falls low on the train,
sloping off the side corners, and leaving in
tact only the corner at the top that is
mounted on the bead under a cluster or
wreath of orange blossoms, and is pinned on
by jewelled pins. The edges of the tulle
are smoothly cut and are left unhemmed. If
becoming to the bride, the veil is most effec
tive when draped to fall entirely at the
back.
"White, rose, pink or yellow dresses of
bengaline, trimmed with lace or chiffon, will
be worn by bridemaids at October weddings.
They are being made with pointed bodices,
the front cut down ronnd as a plastron, then
open narrowly to the point at the waist-line
and filled in with chifton, A full frill of
Some Autumn Millinery.
the bengaline taken double edges the plas
tron, and a ruche of the same trims 'the
neck and the wrists of the long full sleeves.
The French skirt is long in the back, form
ing almost a demi-tram, and is bordered
with a ruche. An ivory white bengaline
dress with corselet of silver is to be worn by
a maid of honor. Another pretty gown for
a single attendant of the bride is of apricot
colored Batin, brocaded with waving cross
stripes and trimmed with changeable chif
fon, Crepon gowns, white or lemon color,
are inexpensive and pretty for bridemaids.
Short tulle veils worn by bridemaids fall be-,
low the waist; they are fastened on under a
small wreath and are draped to the back,
sometimes being caught by a rose on the left
shoulder; they match the dress in color.
HOW BRIDES WILL TRAVEL.
The bride's traveling dress will be of
chestnut brown, chocolate, green, or navy
blue wool in preference to the gray cos
tume that at once proclaims bridehood.
For those who prefer rough stuffs are
French dresses witn the ground of one color
covered with long fleecy nap of another
color, and trimmed with the new ombre
velvet. Thus a drab wool "marbled" with
brown down is trimmed with velvet shading
from drab through green to old-rose. The
pointed bodice, with its only visible seams
under the arms, laps half way across the
right side, and is cut down at the top to show
a foil-gathered plastron o brown ben
galine. Revers of shaded velvet follow the
lapped top, and a wide band of the velvet
is set diagonally across the back from tho
right armhole to the waist-line on the left.
The standing collar band and the turned
back cuffs of the sleeves are of velvet The
French skirt is lined with silk throughout
and is entirely without trimming. A very
lone coat or a deep wide cape of brown
cloth will be worn over this gown.
Badges for 'lodges and societies at Mc
Manon Bros. & Adams', 63 Fourth avenue.
Btt
WBffk
'J 4 II3, 1 v
$w&- Ilu
THE
THE TRAILING SKIRT.
Ho Concession to the Kefonn Ideaffln
the Latest Fashions.
HOARDING EAPD TBAKSIT 0AE8.
Arguments in Favor of the MticbrAtoed
but Necessary Corset
PACTS ABOUT THE GREEK COSTBMB
rwarrrBN roa the dispatch.!
The dress reformers do not appear to be
making much headway in the matter of con
structing a suitable dress for women, and
yet the necessity becomes every day more
apparent There has been more howling
over the trouble of skirts since the intro
duction of the cable and electric cars than
ever before. The cars are high, having two
steps; they Jerk constantly, throwing peo
ple off their feet, and no conductor waits
until a woman is seated. This calls for
quick movement, but when a woman car
ries a baby, a basket, an umbrella or
package, she has a clambering time to catch
the rail with the impediment of long skirts.
It looks so easy for a man to catch a car
that women are constantly envying them
their freedom of movement
Long skirts in the house are all very well,
if people prefer to bo hampered with them
rather than be out of the fashion. But even
then women who do housework have much
of discomfort, additional work, and wear
and tear of temper especially in carrying
things up and down stairs. And that there
is much of this carrving in the homes of
working women requires no showing. The
babies have to be carried until they can
walk. Since gas is getting to be out of
reach, coal forms another load to be carried
up as fuel, and down as ashes, with skirts to
be clutched.
ONE METHOD OT BELIEF.
In old times and in country districts the
stalwart dames overcame this aggravating
impediment by having short petticoats and
then pinning up their skirts. The country
woman still does this when she milks, or
works in her garden, from force of necessity.
In this style of rig the mother of George
"Washington received Lafayette. But what
tie girls call their "Gym dress" would be
vastly more convenient and pretty. The
dress prescribed for this physical culture is
neat, modest and becoming." It is adapted
for freedom of movement, health, and for
doing housework most easilv, and, for that
matter, any other work in which women are
engaged. In stvle it would be much moae
suitable for stre'et wear than any other. To
climb on the present kind of car with any
thing to carry and skirts to manage is a feat
for a woman, and a mighty awkward feat at
that especially wheu in the endeavor to
clutch a strap they pitch forward and run
the risk of an unpleasant fall, or bounce
down upon a man.
But the present advocates of "dress re
form do not propose, we are told, to preaoh
and to teach the beauty and utility ot short
gowns as a means of comfort, but they in
tend to go back to the Greek costume of
old, which is pretty and graceful in a pic
ture, but it appears to be little better than
that of to-day, since the skirts were long and
quite as sheath-like as are those of the
presefli.
HOW PENELOPE IS DRESSEIX
In the picture of Penelope she is attired
in such a decollette style as would shook
the saintliest of Chautauqnans and horrify
Bradley and his friends at Ocean Grove into
a fit Penelope has had her praises sounded
in classic songs and stories as the model
matron of the Greeks, not only .for her
beauty, but her virtues and industry. The
Greek dress was meant for a life of seclus
ion, such a sort of loose wrapper or te
gown as .wonien generally wear around
nome in uiu luoniiiis tvuoy.
Cornelia, the famous itoman matron wno
represented all that was heroic and noble, is
shown in her picture in a loose, shapeless
gown with the tail of it hung over her arm,
so it must have had a long train. No, the
old Grecian and Boman styles will not suit
the women of the present who spend their
lives in so much going about the streets and
in public work.
The Eastern women of the harems and
zenanas are as dreadfully shocked bv the
Eictures of Europeans going about without
aving their heads wrapped in veils, which
entirely conceal their faces, as are Ameri
cans over their customs. 2fo Persian or
Arab woman would be considered well
behaved or respectable if she appeared in
publio without having her face swaddled
in this covering, and yet wo are told
she i? not at all particular as to her feet
Feet are all alike they claim it is the face
that gives positive identity, and she would
lose caste if she should go around in the
bonnets and hats of the Europeans.
IDEAS BRED BY CUSTOM.
Atraveler in the East relates that he once
showed the photographs of some friends of
his in London attired in full evening dress
to a Persian lady. She was shocked beyond
measure. When assured that that was the
tyle in Queen Victoria's dominions, she
called down the curse of Allah upon such
women and-their descendants.
These customs are ingrained in a people.
Civilization does modify and change as to
fashions, but the approach to common sense
in matters of dress is cvn among the most
intelligent slower, it would appear, than
almost anything on earth. Frances Willard
says somewhere that a contemplation of the
compressed waists, the heads heated with
wads ot hair, the free steps impeded by
trailing skirts, coupled with the knowl
edge that the edicts of the theater and the
demi-monde, who set the fashions, have de
prived women of watch pockets and loaded
them with bustles, more disheartens her
about women than anything else.
DELUSIONS ABOUT THE CORSET.
Talking of dress reform, the corset has
come into such prominence that the pulpit
has taken it up, and if its effect was as
dreadful as a recent sermon made it out to
be, it is a wonder that anybody is living of
any account, jxliss yy mara is very extreme
upon this subject, and discourses thrillingly
about "the graveyards being full of victims
of diseases that came of corsets, and the hos
pitals groaning with their degenerate off
spring." But it remained for a
man and a minister fo picture
the horrors of the corset in still more
sickening and alarming style. If a woman
believed it all she would be driven in des
peration to abolish the corset immediately.
But she does not Furthermore it is likely
that the clergyman never knew the comfort
of corsets. He believes more in the
respectable and reverential chimney-pot
stiff hat, which compresses his brain and
leaves the red mark of discomfort to show
whenever removed. That is where the rub
comes in for him.
Taking its history and considering its
uses, while not justifying its abuses,
it seems evident that these ex
treme views are not iounded upon
fact Even as a fool killer the corset might
be considered not a bad invention, if the
rule of life is the survival of the fittest The
women who lace themselves to an extreme
are, very decidedly, fools, hence the world
will be all the better if the graveyard is
fattened by their remains. The grand
mothers in the good old days wore stiller
stays andTlaced tighter than do their de
scendants, yet the scientists tell us that life
now is longer and that their children do not
prove by degeneracy that the world is fast
moving to destruction by reason of the cor
set A wise physician has been qnoted as
saying .that the old notion that a good
woman shouldstay at home and spend her
days -drudging in a back kitchen had killed
more women than any one cause.
A DEFENSE OF SCIENTISTS.
That there is another side to this vexing
question of corsets is shown by an elaborate
essay in a late English marriage where the
use of stays is defended upon physiologio
principles by C. B. Boy, iL D., and J. G.
PITTSBURG - DISPATCH,
Adaml, M. B. a &, whatever that row of
letters may mean. They give a somewhat
lengthy technical explanation founded upon
experiment and physiology, too long to
quote, but finally say: "It is to be noted
also that in front and at the sides the abdo
men is bounded by walls having no bonv
framework, formed partly of muscles, which
always contract involuntarily during great
physical exertion. Even in the case of a
tvpically healthy, unsophisticated savage
the action of these muscles which compress
the abdominal viscera will be assisted bv
the wearing of a belt The efficacy of sucn
girdle is not so great when formed of an
elastic material as when made of some com
paratively inelastfo substance such as
leather. In the caso of civilized man, and
still more in the case of women, weakness
of the muscles in question is common
enough, and with them the support given
by a girdle is even greater than with sav
ages." The conclusion thev reach In their learned
article is that when the corset is not used
uncomfortably it is a gain to many
women, and as necessary as belts to soldiers,
ntnlat.a an3 ftnoAKnll nl... i l.
WOMEN ALWAYS WOBE THE3L
In ancient times when a strong man had
to run a race, he girded himself up for extra
exertion. The dress of the Greek women
was loose, but they wore girdles or what
corresponded to "the corset under them.
"Women have wom corsets or girdles In
some shape or form for centuries, and their
abuse by vain women is no reason for such
wholesale denunciation.
But who maintains that women's gowns
should trail the ground and wipe up the
streets? In the last fashion platesthey are
as long as ever, and an everyday 6ight is to
see the skirts of handsome dresses soiled
and spoiled for a couple of inches, or held
up in an awkward bunch with one hand.
Health, comfort, freedom are to be sacri
ficed unresistingly to n few inches on the
tail of a gown. It will be interesting to
know if the courage of the few will peter
out in view of the latest style. Such result
of the Chautauquan convention would be
such qp. exhibition as would dishearten
many more than Frances "Willard.
Bessie Beambms.
J. PA1HEB O'HEItL'S WHISKEBB.
How they Struct a Chicago Correspondent
Who Attended a Recent Ball Game.
In the game at Pittsburg the other day,
when Chicago won by the score of 2 to 1,
J. Palmer O'Neill's whiskers had a big
part in the game. He is the president of
the Smoky Citjcsyndicate, and the varying
state of his feelings was accurately indicated
by his wind wooers, according to the ac
count given by Leonard "Washburn, the
able baseball "writer of the Chicago filter
Ocean.
"At the opening of the game," he says,
"thero was a slight breeze blowing from the
river, and the whiskers kissed and flirted
with it as a laughing, bright-eyed girl might
the foam-flecked surf of the sea, and as the
afternoon wore on, with the wind growing
bolder and the clouds gathering blacker
than the Black Hills, they seemed to madly
via with each other in the expression of
their ecstasv. To one at a distance they
looked, with the western sun sifting
through them in a golden shower, like two
dancing blades of flame.
"Until the eighth inning Mr. O'Neill's.
face was shining like a full moon, as his
whiskers romped and played on either side.
The expression of his countenance be
tween was that of a fine old country gentle
man bidding his guests make merry and
free."
One Pittsburg run came along in the sixth
inning, "and looking aloft atter Hanlon's
foot had resounded on the plate, one could
see the whiskers rearing themselves
proudly on cither side of Mr. O'Neill like
the banner of a triumphant army."
In the eighth inning the Chicagos made a
run. The Inter-Ocean says: "The score was
tied. Far aloft in a private box two long,
grizzled, hirsute flags hung about a trouble
torn face like twi palls of gloom."
The Chicagos made the winning run in
the ninth, and then: "The crowd filed out
dismally. It is a crowd calloused to de
leat, but not the defeat which comes like a
cloudburst at the eleventh hour. There was
still a man sitting motionless in a private
box. He had the expression of one to
whom death would come as a relief. His
whiskers hung like crape at the front door
on a wet day, and the wind soughing gently
through, produced a solemn sound like rats
chasing through a grand piano."
BAKPLK 07 TEBSEx" JtfSTICB.
Twelve Good Men and True Say a Man Has
the Bight to Abuse Ula TVlfe.
Krw York Advertiser.!
-From time a long way back "Jersey Jus
tice" has been the proudsynonym for well,
for lots of queer things. There was added
to its archives recently a verdict which was
distinctively Jersey, and which will create
a sensation among all the married people in
all the other States. Patrick Mullen
was arragned before Justice Kreuger
of Carlstadt on a charge of wife
beating. A jury was drawn and lawyers
from Hackensack defended Mullen, while
Lawyer "Watson, of Passaic, appeared for
Mrs. Mullen. After an enormous amount
of evidence had been given in behalf of the
plaintiff, the Jury went out They soon re
turned and said that they had agreed that a
man had a perfect right to abuse his wife.
It he did not have control of what belonged
to him, then he could obtain a divorce.
The result of this verdict will probably
be that in a short time there will be few
married women in New Jersey and few
married men in the other States, unless the
justices of the latter should adopt this rul
ing as a precedent, in which case we should
have more paragraphs in our newspapers
similar to tne following, from the cable
news of the week:
Vietoa Four women have been arrested
at Szenttamas, Hungary, on the chare e of
poisoning their husbands and selling poisons
to other women for a similar purpose.
Paris A woman named Lombard has been
arrested In this city for an attempt to mur
der her husband by pouring molten lead into
big car while he was asleep.
AH AEIBT0CBATIC TUBKISH LADY.
The Costume She Affects "When She Ap
pears In Constantinople's Streets.
The figure in the accompanying illustra
tion from The Season is that of an aristo
cratic Turkish lady,
as she appears in
the streets of Con
stantinople. She
wears an extremely
loosely fitting black
silk dres? over the
chemise and under
petticoats; it is held
in with a belt at the
waist, and cut out
three corneredwise
over the bosom. But
the most character
istic features of the
costume are the
"Feredsche" and
the ."Jaschmak."
The Feredsche is a
pleated mantle with
long wide sleeves;
the mantle reaches
,from the shoulders
down to the feet,
and covers the whole
person. It is usually
made of light
woollen material, though silk is often used
for the purpose.
The "Jaschmak" consists of two white
gauze veils joined together, one is wound
several times round the head and reaches
over the forehead down to the very eye
brows, whilst the other as effectually con
ceals the lower portion of the wearer's face,
who thus equipped may venture to meet the
vulgar gaze, even in the very streets of the
Turkish capital. 'Only the lower orders of
women in Turkey are permitted to appear
in publio with their heads uncovered.
Hi
iillll
w w
SUNDAY ' SEPTEMBER
ALL PARIS IS SILLY.
EitraTagant Eejoicing Orer French
Recognition fcy the Powersi
SOHE OP THE EOYAL SIGHTSEEBS.
The McAn Mission Work and tne Contribu
tion of Pittsbnrgers.
ADMISSION TO THE GEEAT MUSEUMS
tconnKsrONDiifCD op the distatcii.1
Paris, Sept 11. The "silly season
still prevails in Paris. Everybody is out of
town. Politics is half asleep. Most of the
members of the ministrv are in or near tho
citTj however, and have aroused themselves
I tn t A tn .T-!. Dt ,,i
ing is allowed by French laws, "provided
that the Chamber is not sitting, theministry
may vote money for any protect which is
debated and voted by the body as a whole.
Martinique gets 8200,000 for her persistency,
twice the sum which her governor asked for.
In the absence of politics, congratula
tions over the triumphal tour of the
French Squadron continue. Admiral Ger
vais is the hero of the town. There are ru
mors that President Carnot is to be Invited
to visit Queen Victoria, and that the Czar
and Czarina are coming to see us. France
Is like a family who having seen better
days and having for a time been forced
from society now sees itself taken
back. Once more she has her box in the
theater of nations. Once more she drives
four-in-hand with the 400. The chief way in
which she shows her joy is by singing the
Bussian hymn. A dramatio incident oc
curred at the Tnilleries last week as a result
of the reception given to this hymn. The
cries of "Long Live Bussia; Long Live
France" stirred the blood of some Germans
present and thev answered: "Down "With
France; Long Live Germany." Immediately
the crowd was on them and even we neutral
outsiders came near being tramped to death.
The German r were chased until secured by
the police and then followed to the station
by some 2,000 heated, hissing Frenchman.
Only one of the party was retained. Here
are the words of this famous hymn in En
glish: God guard onr Emperor,
Uphold his glory,
Guard his memory and his ponrsa.
All happiness provide,
And all valor.
May God guide onr Emperor.
The Bussian demonstrations go hard with
the Socialists, who call them the stupidest
of all the stupid performances of whioh
Frenchmen have been guilty. ""What a lot
of Idiots I" is the comment of the Socialistlo
press. The visits which members of royal
families, like the Grand Duke, the King ot
Greece, the King of Servia and the half
brother of the King of Siam, have been
matdng In Paris are equally disagreeable to
this class of thinkers, and they call some
very hard names to show their disapproval.
Americans, by the way, are not more in
defatigable sight-seers than some of these
royal heads. The King of Servia roams
about exactly as we commoners do. He
follows up the novelties, too, and has heard
a rehearsal of "Lohengrin" at the opera
through the theatrophone, a new fad among
tho Parisians, a modification of the tele
phone, by which one can sit at home and, in
Bellamy style, listen to what is going on
on the stage blocks away. The half brother
of the King of Siam, who has come to
Europe to study primary education, began
his researches here by visiting the two great
Parisian stores, the Magazin du Louvre and
the Bon Marche.
Many Plttsburgers will be interested In
knowing that Dr. Lobs, the new Vice Pres
ident and the "Working President of the
McAll Mission, has arrived in Paris from
Kalamazoo, Mich. I heard his first speech
here yesterdiv in one of the mission halls
and was convinced of his fitness for the dif
ficult position he has taken. This McAll
work is without doubt the greatest Protest
ant religious force in Paris. It is conducted
with rare spirituality and liberality. Pitts
burg and Allegheny gave about $650 last
year to the station in which they are espe
cially interested. They may be sure no
money has ever been better spent
Mr. Stanley and his wife have paid a fly
ing visit to Paris. The chief publio atten
tion he received was this satirical descrip
tion in Gd-Blat: "He seems to have be
come a quiet citizen, who reads the Bible to
his wife, travels no more except for pleas
ure, drinks more weak tea than whisky, and
probably conceals ambitions to become one
day the all-powerful king of tho mysterious
Dark Continent"
You will remember the reports which
came to America of an ugly encounter be
tween the Anarchists at Clichy and the
police May L Three leaders who were ar
rested were tried last week. One escaped
sentence, the other two were given five and
three years. There was fear that the friends
of the" Anarchists would cause trouble, but
nothing of thekindcould have been quieter.
I passed the Palais de Justice, where the
trial was held, twice during its progress,
and beyond an unusual number of gens d'
armes, saw nothing out of the ordinary.
The clear case against the disturbers and the
prompt action of the authorities has had a
good effect on the public temper.
A pathetic echo from a famous past trial,
that of Eyraud, has just made itself heard.
It is tho effort of the wife and daughter of
the murderer to hide themselves from their
disgrace by obtaining legally a new name.
Travelers all over the world w ill be inter
estcd in the agitation just started in Paris
in favor of charging an admittance to.the
freat collections of the museums and gal
erles, such as the Louvre, the Cluny, Lux
embourg, etc. All these things are free
now. Hospitality and the good of the poor
are the reasons. The agitators claim that
this is an excess of hospitality and that one
day in the weeK would be enough for tho
poor. The money taken in is wanted for
cleaning up publio buildings and monu
ments and repairing the dilapidated. I
incline to the tax when I see how much a
little cleaning does for a building like the
Palace of the Legion-of Honor, which is
just now under the scrubbing brush and the
paint pot
The week has brought several Pitts
burgers to Paris. Messrs, C. H. Spang and
A. "Wafterson are both here. Mr. and ilrs.
Thomas B. Hutchinson, who spend so much
time in this cay capital, have returned.
Miss Loughlin, who in company of Mr. and
Mrs. S. Bisscll and daughter, of Cleveland,
has spent the season at Carlsbad, has
just ended a two weeks' Boiourn in Paris.
She has gone from here witn her party to
London.
Apropos of the numerous railroad acci
dents which have happened in France re
cently somebody suggested that death ought
not to be represented hereafter with a scythe
in his hand but rather on a locomotive hold
ing the throttle. Americans could learn
much from the way the French treat rail
road horrors. They do not allow them to
be forgotten and they demand a removal of
the cause not for a few days while the ter
ror is fresh but until the changes are made.
In the United States'we would have forgot
ten St Mande almost, but here the people
are busy with an enormous petition demand
ing electricity for the cars in the place of
oil, better illumination of the tunnels, a
rigorous blocc-system, in short all the de
vices which, had they been in operation,
would have prevented the accident
The Parisians need to regulate thetrioyeloj
20, 189L
and bicycle In their streets quite m
much as they do (heir railroad system. A
pedestrian xnusl take care of himself In
Paris, not an easy matter for all sorts of
drivers seem determined to run you down if
you cross a street The furious riding of
the wheelmen has made the matter worse.
Their own risk is greater, however, than
that of the pedestrian as one poor fellow
has found at the cost of hh life. Turning a
corner at break neck speed he collided with
abig omnibus and was killed. The muni
cipality will, no doubt, be obliged to regu
late the matter.
Nellie Bly'a enterprise in passing herself
off as Insane has been emulated by a Paris
ian journalist for the same purpose, to dis
cover if tha treatment of tho patients in the
hospitals was as brutal as represented. Tho
young man was less skilful than his fore
runner, and was found out in five days. He
declares that he has enough notes, however,
to prove the charges false.
A little more originality Is shown In the
following Parisian variation on another of
Nellie Bly's performances, the racing of
letters around the world. One returned last
week which had made tho circuit in 111
days by way of Havre, New York, San
Francisco, Yokohama, Singapore, Suez and
Modena. The announcement of its arrival
brought to light another which broke the
record by making the tour in 79 days.
Ida M. Tabbsll.
INSIDE THEIR JACKETS.
TheOnly WartoGet AllthoOoodOtrt ofm
Potato Is to Boil It With the Shin on
Borne Miscellaneous Beclpes From
Elllce- Serena.
rWBITTEX TOH THZ DISTATCH.
Some persons prefer potatos boiled in
their skins to any other method in which
they may be cooked. And there is no way
in which the real mealy taste and the nat
ural flavor of 'the vegetable are bo finely re
tained. This is the only way in which it
is possible to get all the good there i3in
them. Notwithstanding this, they are sel
dom seen on our tables in their natural
state. Possibly they are regarded thus as
Bomething entirely too common to be good;
but, whatever may be the cause of their
frequent absence, there is no reason why a
perfectly boiled potato, neatly arranged
within the folds of a snowy napkin, should
not grace our tables occasionally for the
benefit of those who like them. Give the
potato-loving Irishman one of these mealy
tubers, a handful of salt, a glass of fresh
buttermilk, dotted over with golden butter,
and he has a feast
Boiled Potatoes.
Take potatoes as nearly as possible of one
size. Wash them well and clear them of
earth and dirt with a rather stiff vegetable
brush. Let them lie In cold water for an
hour or two to extract the black Juice with
which they ate impregnated. Do not put
them Into boiling water like greens, but into
fresh, cold water with a little salt in a kettle
closely covered. They are to boil most rap
idly, and do not add more water than will
merely cover them, ns they produce them
selves a considerable quantity of fluid.
When done instantly pour off any water re
maining ana pmco tne vossei containing tne
potatoes on the back of the stove. Bemove
the oover and let the steam completely
evaporate. The potatoes are thus rendered
dry and mealy.
I append some general recipest
Grilled Sardines.
Take one dozen fine sardines, remove the
skins and place the sardines on a tin plate in
the oven until they are heated through. Pour
meanwhile, tno oil from tho sardines into a
saucepan, set on the fire and add an even
tablespoon'ul of flour when the oil begins to
boll, btir well, and add two gills of stock: or
water. Boil until thick as rich cream, add a
teaspoonfuf of pungent sauce and seasoning
of salt and cayenne pepper. Beat together
the yelk of one egg, one teaspoonful of
Fi onch mustard and one teaspoonful of vine
gar. Pour the sauco boiling hot on the egg
and other ingredients, stir a moment. Then
pour it over tho sardines, which have been
previously placed upon slice30f toast.
Tomata Jelly.
Bemove the skins from fresh, ripe toma
toes, squeeze through a thin olotn and meat
ure the Juice, allowing a pound of white
sugar for every pound of juice. Boil to a
Jelly, and flavor with lemon or ginger. Seal,
and storo In a cool, dry place.
Spiced Grapes.
Take ripe grapes, put In a colander and
dash with cold water. Crush them, boll un
til soft and press through a sieve. To a quart
of pulp add a Dint of brown sugar ana one
teaspoonful each of pon dered cinnamon and
allspice, half a teaspoonful of mace and a
pinch of cloves. Simmer for one hour.
Salad Cream.
Beat the yelks of four eggs until light
Moisten a tablespoonful of mustard with
cold water, add one tablespoonful of salt,
three teaspooufuls powdered sugar and one
half cupful of cream. Mix these ingredients
well with the eggs. Melt one-half cupful of
butter in a cupful of hot vinegar, add the
mixture and stir over hot water until it be
comes creamy. Whip the whites and fold
them gradually into the dressing, when,
about to serve.
Delicate Deisert.
Four a quart of warm milk Into a dessert
dish, add a tablespoonful of prepared ren
net, stirring well, and place on Ice. Serve
with cream and powdered sugar.
Chicken Loaf,
Boll a chicken in as little water as possible
until the meat can be easily picked irom the
bones; cut it up fine, then pnt it back Into
the sancopan with two ounces of butter and
seasoning of salt and pepper. Cover the Dot
torn of a mould with slices of hard-boiled
egg: pour in the chicken, place a weight on
it. Set aside to cool, and turn out when
ready to serve.
Chocolate Souffle.
Take eight eggs; beat tho whites and yelks
separately. Grate seven ounces of chocolate,
add to the yelks of the eggs with one-half
small teacup of white sugar, and a dessert
spoonful of flour. Stir for seven minutes',
when the beaten whites may be added, fold
ing them in until the mixture is smooth.
Four the preparation into a buttered dish
and bake 30 minutes. Servo at once.
i,LLICE SZREXi.
WHAT A OIBL COSTS.
The Fashionable Dootors Make a Beauty!
Bills Beach the Thousands.
New York Recorder.
"Beatrix, you have cost father 52,000 dur
ing the last 20 years in doctors' bills."
This roused the ire of Beatrix" at once,
and she said that Guy ought to be ashamed
of himself; he knew she was perlectly
healthy, that it was entirely out of fashion
to be fragile, and he knew that she could
ride, swim, play polo or baseball with any
boy. But Guy was obdurate with facts and
objected to any further interruption until
he got through the list.
,JNow," he said, "as to details. I have
seen several of tho fashionable physicians,
including Drs. Thomas, "Walker, Guernsey,
Sayre, Jacob!, Stimson and Wynkoop, and
here they arejit a low aderage:
Born - 9 200
Mumps... ......... CO
Measles 0
Chicken-pox 63
Whooping cough 150
Scarlet fever 250
Teething age 250
Tonto age 500
Accidental sundries 600
Total $2,000
THB TBAVELEE'S BEC0BD.
Herman Oelrlchs Hold the Belt "With
3,400 Miles in 4 Days IS Hours.
New York Advertiser.
Betting on a ship's run across the ocean,
or on a race between two well-known
steamers, has grown to large proportions
during this J summer, probably because no
"jockeying"! has yet i)aen discovered. The
next fad is facing across the continent in
express trams. Marcus Mayer started this,
and manv richtfellows followed his example.
Among them, Baron Von Schroeder, of San
PranciscoJ held the best record until a week
ago, and now Herman Oelrichs is the belt
holder, with a record of 3,400 miles in 4 days
18 hours and 40 minutes.
Stoke and office furniture to order.
HAtJGH & Kezsas, 33 "Water street
JOLLY KRIS KRINGLE
Demands Such Heavy Tribute That
It Is Well to Begin Early.
HEFTS FOE HOME DECORATION.
Bits of Fancy Work to Keep Pretty Femin
ine Fingers Busy.
HAmG GEUEL FOE HE DTVAin)
twsm tor titz dispatch.
"With the languorous heat of the dog days
scarcely out of our veins it seems hardly
seasonable to begin Christmas talk, still in
this busy day and generation coming events
have to be to some extent discounted. To
many of us our Christmas Intentions are
more generous than our pursesit will be
wise to begin in time to execute these inten
tions. The purses stretch better if the
strain is not a sudden one. Many women
accumulate during the summer wanderings
pretty little things that are carefully put
aside for Christmas gifts; others begin
in the early autumn, now, for in
stance, to pick up trifles to hoard against
this supreme holiday of the year.
At no time do the shops offer such genu
ine bargains in materials for Christmas
fancy work as now. At the lace and trim
ming counters odd lengths of all sorts- of
handsome things are shown and scraps of
beautiful fabrics, silks, velvets and plushes
are to be readily found for the seeking
remnants of Bummer finery that must give
way before the influx of fall and winter
goods. And beyond a few striking Christ
mas novelties that are not shown till the
snow flies, it is easy to select from the many
permanent favorites workwhichwill please.
And at least,if the actual gift is not pur
chased, nor its' materials.secured thus forehanded!-,
it will be wise to have eyes and
ears open for susgestions as to what is
wanted. It was the writer's good fortune
just before last Christmas to see a remark
able collection of gifts. It "had been got
together by a big-hearted woman and was
intended for distribution among a wide
circle of relatives and intimate friends.
There was a French flsh kettle "for a lit
tle cousin of mine who docs her own work;"
aprettv rug "to cover a worn place that has
much distressed the owner of a certain par
lor," a choice though small etching for a
"house mother whose artist soul had been
starved patching trousers for five royster
ing bovs;" two orchestra seats for a coming
theatrical performance "for a young clerk
and his wife who love the play and are
rarely able to enjoy it" and so on. Every
article represented a gratified desire, a
study of felt wants, to nse a much abused
but most expressive phrase. And in the
face of this painstaking care it suddenly
seemed as if the indifferent reckless choice
that marks much Christmas giving lacked
the true spirit of the time.
The perforated silver' tea balls, which
were such popular wedding gifts last au
tumn, seem rather to have fallen from
grace this season, which is a pity, for they
were and are distinctly useful. "They were
taken too much advantage of," sagely re
marks a young matron, who was a bride a
year ago. "I had eight among my gifts, all
family size, for the teapot, and I could not
use possibly more than one. They were
pretty, new, not too expensive,
and seekers for wedding presents
simply ran them into the ground.
Naval officers in particular (it was a navy
woman who was talking) took to them won
derfully. Six of my eight came from en
signs and sub-lieutenants."
It is safe In selecting these dainty trifles
for other people to buy the individual ones
for use in cups; such will bear duplicating
and look very pretty piled on the tea. tray
to be sent around with each cup and daintily
taken out by the silver chain when the de
coction is sufficiently brewed. A substitute
for tho pretty spheres was seen the other
day at the tea table of a young
chatelaine whose resources did not permit
a full set and whose wedding occurred be
fore the rage for them, in the shape of tiny
tarletan bags holding the tea leaves. One
was dropped in each cup and boiling water
poured over it, as in the case of the silver
vessel, and later taken out with little silver
tongs. Unquestionably the brewing of tea,
cup by cup, in this fashion greatly en
hances its flavor. And as a final suggestion,
mesdames, serve your tea hot In English
drawing rooms, at the "five o'clock, the
tea is drunk at the scalding point
o
An excellent method to clean walls pa
pered, painted or hard finished is to make
a dough of coarse flour and water and rub
with it, first carefully wiping off all loose
dust from the surface to be cleaned. Havo
some flour at hand to thicken the dough as
it grows too soft under the handling.
At a recent wedding, hangings of gauze,
the color of the prevailing flower, added
not a little to the charming effect of the
rooms. Lavender sweet peas were banked
and bunched in every possible place and at
windows, doors, draped over the pictures,
garlanded in the chandeliers, and in fact
wherever opportunity seemed to offer were
hangings of lavender gauze. The effect was
graceful, but the color a little trying to
some of the guests. The idea might be
duplicated in yellow or pink more satisfac
torily. Something exceedingly fleecy and pretty
in the way of picture or easal scarfs and
somethingwhich was pronounced new in
the Exchange, where it was seen, is one of
whitewash blonde, made up with No. 9
ribbon. Take a piece of fine blonde of
whatever length and width desired a scarf
SO inches wide and 1J yards long, when
finished drapes well and run an inch hem
along its length. Finish each end with a
hem the width of the ribbon. Fringe strips
of ribbon to the depth of a finger, leaving the
ribbon plain the width of the scarf. Allow
two strips for each end, Tack a strip of
ribbon to each hemmed end, and to each
strip join wheels of the blonde, adding to
these the remaining strips of ribbon. Finish
the second strip of ribbon at each end with
Vandykes of the wheels made by putting,
them on in rows in the order three, two,
one. Tho wheels are made of round pieces
of the blonde turned together and gauged at I
TASK IT ON THE WALL.
Get the best not the cheapest Confine your pur
, chases to such goods as your experience and judg
ment tell you are of the finest quality. No mer
chant can build up a profitable business by selling
inferior goods. When undesirable goods accumulate
the wheels of business are clogged. Sell the most
reliable articles at reasonable prices. Serve your
customers with Dr. Price's Delicious Flavoring
Extracts as they never fail to please. In a million
homes for more than a quarter of a century they
have given satisfaction.
18
the center, leaving a folded and slightly
fulled circle two inches In diameter, of
which the right side is the ganged side.
A pretty combination is to use altemata
strips of pink and pale heliotrope ribbon;
one of all white is also effective. These
scarfs ore very easily made, and are oi
trifling cost
There are few housekeepers who do not
sigh for a brass bedstead. Their strength,
durability, complete cleanliness recommend
them besides their beauty. They are, too,
the most wholesome of beds, permitting
perfect ventilation. But their cost isgreat,
and so there is a considerable vain sighing
done for brass bedsteads along with other
good things of this life.
An excellent substitute however for
them tha brass beds, not all the good
things are tho pretty enameled iron
opes shown. They come in
similar designs to the simpler
brass ones, and are very artistic furnishers.
Those in white, with brass balls tipping the
posts, can be had in three-quarters size as
low as ?7 CO; such are shown in black and
brass as well, also in a cream tint that is ef
fective. Some with plain brass red head-
anu ioot piece as well as the post noos are
511 and ?12 50, according to design. Tho
Margaret Louisa Home for "Working "Wom
en, recently built here by one of the Van
derbilt daughters, Mrs. Shepard, is pro
vided with plain white iron bedsteads in
every room; so attractive an effect bna this
furnishing prod need that soma captious
critics have complained that the effect was
actually too fine for working women, en
gendering wrong notions of luxury, etc 1
In point of fact, they are wonderfully
pretty. One of pale blue, with brass top
pings, daintily dressed in snowy bed linens,
with a wreath of cornflowers embroidered
on the pillow cases, furnishes a young girl's
bedroom with taste and elegance.
Did you ever, when you have been sick,
have a bowl of gruel brought to you that
was weak and flourless, lumpy and abso
lutely unpalpable? If you did, you were
only one of many other patients who have
been so afflicted, if that is any consolation.
Gruel is like the little girl in the nursery
rhyme; when it is good, it is very good, in
deed, and when it is bad, it is "horrid" and
only fit for pig food, and not even for the
prize pig in the pen. Yet the knack of
gruel is 60 simple I Its whole secret is to
wet the I-dian meal in cold water. Take
two tablespoonfuls of the meal, or if it is
liked a little thick, three, and stir smooth
In a little cold water before adding it by
degrees to a quart of salted boiling water.
This is secret No. 2 to salt the boiling
water before the meal is added. In this
way the salt itself is not tasted, but its
flavor is. This may seem much ado over a
trifling matter, but a bowl of good gruel,
drunk and relished by a sick person, is
sometimes on important factor in turning
the scale of on illness.
The white linen covers for sofa cushions
which have been so popular daring the
summer, are being used as well in the fitting
up of apartments for the winter. They are,
above all, suitable the right thing in tho
right place as they admit of lanndrying.
Some of them are traced in all over designs,
others have small flowers worked solidly in
wash silks, like violets, forget-me-nots and
the like, and almost all have deep hem
stitchedbo rders. A pretty ona was worked in
vellow silk in scattering buttercups and
upon each corner was a rosette of yellow
ribbon. Ladies who cannot hemstitch buy
large plain linen handkerchiefs, hem
stitched all around, such ss are sold for gen
tlemen's use, and fit a plain slip lining to
them, leaving the hemstitched border free
from th seam.
Maegaeet H. "Welok.
PHOTS IS 8SA AND AI3.
tffhes Xead tho Sharks and a' Bird Com
Straight to Honey.
It Is a popular belief among many sea
farers that the shark depends to a greater
or less extent npon the pilot fish for infor
mation, and is guided by this little attend
ant to-the various tid-bits that come In its
way, says Prof. C. F. Eolder. How much
truth there is in this it would be diflicult to
determine, but it is barely possible that the
curiosity of the shark may be attracted to
food by the action of the pilot fishes.
The story first told to travelers in Africa
regarding "the indicator albirostris, as tho
bird is called, was that ages ago an ancestor
of the bird had been stung to death by bees.
Its descendants had sworn revenge, and
wherever they discovered a bee's nest and
honey they immediately flew away to the
camp of a native or white and told him.
This would have been a marvelous tale if
true, but the actual facts are quite won
derful enough. The bird is very fond of
honey, and being unable to pet It out of
treesi flies to the natives and pilots them to
the store.
A Printer's Experience TTIth th Colic
Last winter while working at the case la
the composing room of the Dos Moines
Leader I was taken with the worst case of
cramp or printer's colic I had ever had. I
tried everything in the shape of medicine
generally used in snch cases, but they af
forded me no relief. I sent for a hack and
was taken home. My wife sent immediately
for a physician, who did everything in his
power to relieve my suffering; but I grew
worse and worse. I suffered intense pain
for two nights and a day; at the end of that
time the doctor told me that unless relirf
came within two hours I would be a dead
man. I would rather die than suffer
again what I did during those 33
long hours. I was convinced that
mv time had come. I have been
subject to cramps or printer's collo for
years, but always Defore had little trouble
in obtaining relief, and never lost a full
day's work on account of it before. But
this time the old medicine all seemed to
have no more effect than so much water. A
neighbor who was present when the doctor
stated that relief must come soon or there
could be) no hope for me, volunteered to
procure me a bottle of Chamberlain's Colic,
Cholera and Diarrhoea Bemedy. I made no
objection I would have taken anything on
which I could hang the slightest hope.
Fifteen minutes after I had taken the first
dose I felt easier, and inside of half an hour
all pain had left me. I was cured. Now I
keep a bottle of both Colic and Cough Medi
cine in the house all the time, and would
not be without It I can honestly and con
scientiously recommend it
Jas. S. "WlLKEra,
irstt Des Moines, Is.
. '"
'! r-4--
Ji
r
LV
Jf -A-V