FASHIONS FOR THE FALL.
The Mjles in Millinery and Gowns That
Hate Approval Shopping in Paris
l)re-slnc Yrctty School Girls French
and Unglisli Xotlonn.
There is a great tendency to use fancy
feathers in trimming the toques, turbans
and capotes worn
this fall, which is
S5kIA
probably the natural
outgrowth of the at
tempt in the spring
to trim with wings,
says a Ifcw York
fashion writer. The
novelty in millinery
tf&s&'.e
i-2".
&s!
7iC-35KS
sjsa
Ukak j.
silks up to the pres-
&W$ (f ent is Ehadcd velvet
slfi"rf "i'SlSs; jinr! ratin antiaue.
and catin antique.
mw
Among the notice
able combinations
are mousse green
and lavender, and
DcniiScason Bonnet
pink with dove gray.
Boscttes about the
diameter of a two-shilling piece are mounted
on pins for the hair. These rosettes are
made of narrower ribbon than the bows,
whereas the diamond in the midst of the
double circle of loops is oftc larger.
The capote shown at the beginning of this
article is composed of three bandeaux cov
ered with black velvet, joined to one an
other only at the sides. The foremost one
Is draped with dark red velvet, and orna
mented with two long jet wings; a red vel
vet bow is placed at the middle, caught
down with a jet butterfly: a similar smaller
bow is n the band at the back, to which the
narrow black -velvet ribbon strings arc at
tacked, and a half-wreath of pink roses is
mounted on the niiiMle band. The illustra
tion ii from Harper's Bazar.
The Truest Parisian Novelty.
The vcrv smartest thing in the way of
millir.erv'that Paris has to offer, writes
Marie joureau to the Boston Globe, is a
fhcater.toque in low turban shape, to be
frank, nothing more than a mere crown
covered w ith white velvet, embroidered in
gold, a great tw i--t of rope of bricht scarle-.
velvet sunounds it, ending in a knot at one
side near the back, out of which stands up a
high loop of scarlet vcl et thrust through
with a golden dagger. I think I should be
supremelv happy if I could see this exquis
ite thing on some girl with very fair hair.
Veils are worn long, extending below the
chin in fold: They match fhc.colorof the
hat or bonnet, and are of every kind of
.gauze and tulle, with all sorts of objects
scattered over their surface, from stars and
crescents to horrible little velvet spiders.
A lancv for wearing the veil is to tie it in a
Tiuge bow knot at the back and let the short
ends s-tand out airily. "White point lace
veils are considered very elegant, but they
hide the features too much.
A frock that seems vcrv popular in Paris
just now is a greenish blue crepe dc chine
robe, with a Greek border embroidered in
silver. It is very simple, but exceedingly
rich and daintv. 'The low-cut corsage is
crossed in front and brought down to one
side: the sleeves are lull and to the elbow;
the skirt is fourreau and trimmed with the
silver border. The gloves to be worn with
this gown should be of the same greenish
blue, and the slippers of siher. A woman
of anv tvpo of beauty could wear this gown
with goo"d effect, although it w ould best be
come a bright-skinned, dark-haired woman
A Young lady's Crepon Gown.
Pink cropon relieved by bands of wide
moss green c vet ribbon is the material of
the pretty gown shown here. The skirt is
s iniplv hemmed at the bottom; the top of it
is deeply shirred at the sides and back, and
completed by a fitted velvet belt. Tiie
bodice, the else of which is slipped into the
skirt, is mounted ery full on a plain lining.
It is girdled with velvet ribbon, twice across
the front and once on the back; the puffed
sleeves are banded tw ice with velvet, and
velvet is used for the collar and wristbands
The costume for a girl shown herewith
Is becoming lor the ages trom 8 to 12. The
home dressmakers
will have no trouble
In selecting a material
that will work up
nicely in the design
shown. A French
costume i also shown
inthisdepartment It
is made of white ba
rege, with red spots.
The jacket is of red
material, with collar,
cuffs, waistband and
cravat of white surah.
It is very attractive
for Indian summer
wear.
The reception toi
let illustrated is of
black brocaded peau
de soie in a lame fish
scale pattern, with jet
for trimming, The
pointed bodice has a
ehield shaped front,
edeed with narrow jet
Crepon Gown
ralloon and ornamented with droD trim-
ruing; it is cut down at the throat and filled
in with folds of net, with a flaring Stuart
collar at the bick. A jet-trimmed panel is
in the right side of the trained skirt, and
there is trimming across the foot of the
front A diagram pattern of this skirt is
given by Uaqier's Bazaar.
Correctins the Styles.
Ladies will be doubtless interested in the
Information that at Cwes the Princess of
ales sets the excel
lent example of wear
ing skirts that never
touch thesrround.nnd
boots of business-like
qualities, the soles
being thick enough to
repel the damp, and
yet not so thick as to
render them heavy.
The Princess wears
the neatest possible
scree suits, the skirts
A French Costume, quite plain, and the
bodices made upon a tightly fitting founda
tion of silk, worn with a belt of the same
material as the blouse, which is generally
composed of surah. The Princess' coats
are as neat and smart as every other gar
ment she dons and adorns. Sometimes she
wears a white serge, lined with scdet silk
and trimmed with white braid, the form
being that of a feminized peajacket.
The present fashion of short trains for
evening dress or toilets of ceremony is ex
tremely graceful, says the .New York World.
Instead of the long train cut separately
from the skirt, added on to it from the
waist and hanging down and trailing on the
ground like a carpet, we have now a train
rprcading out at the back, but forming part
of the skirt itself, gradually enlarged at the
foot in the shape of a bell, Otcourse, a
dress of tulle or gauze cannot be made in
jyf"
this way, but a handsome silk dress is ex
tremely elegant arranged, in this style.
Such a dress makes a lady look taller and
slighter.
At the Bon Marche,
There is scarcely anything the feminine
heart desires that cannot be bought at the
Bon Marche in Paris. A clever writer thus
describes a visit there: It is all so bewilder
ing, the'splendor and the crush, and I look
about for that precious redeemer, the fldbr
walker. Dear me! such an exquisite thing
to look upon as he is, with his pretty hair
and mustache and his killing Parisian ways.
I have to look at him a long time before I
make up mv mind to address him and ask
him "will he direct me to the gantery?"
"Oui, madamc," and it is done with a
deal of splendid ceremony; he thanks me
for asking him and bows to the floor when
he leaves me. Bless me! what should we
do with him in Pittsburg.
But the fashionable gloves they are
pearl white, not pure white, they are passe
lor street wear,
but a deep bluish
pearl with rough
edges and black
embroidery down
the back and large
gilt buttons. Some
nrefcrwhite stitch
ing instead of the
black, and I do not
know that it is not
Erettier, too, but
othare the very
height of fashion.
Then come the
quiet styles for
Uiose who desire
them in tans and
reds and grays,
stitched with scar
let about the edges
with wide em
broidery down the
back th'e color of
the glove. The
Russia leather
gloves are to be
worn again with
(.rpnt fnvnr. and
Reception Toilette.
are the finest of winter gloves. Evening
gloves are worn much shorter to show the
elbow, and they are chosen to match the
gown or some part of it Pink is very pop
ular, and pale green and mauve to go with
the fashionable frocks of those colors. They
have very long fingers and are very loose
about the wrist and arm and meant to
wrinkle.
Some of the most expensive grades are
perfumed delicately, and are as fine as
tissue paner.
They are all very cheap and very tempt
ing, and one always buys a great many
more than one really means to; but then it
is so delightful o buy things at the Bon
Marche. and one may do it so peacefully,
too. You buy a pair' of gloves (or, rather,
two to three dozen pairs), and, presto! a
smiling Frenchman is at your side, telling
vou softly to "come this way." You fol
low your leader mutely and wonderingly
till you come to a desk, where you pay
your francs and centimes to the book
keeper, who sets it down in a huge book
and gives you your change, if there is any
for you, and in the meanwhile somebody or
other does up your parcel and thanks you,
and all'is over without a bit of noise.
' Dressing for School.
The opening of school brings renewed
cares to the mother of growing girls and
boys, and sue needs
must renovate, if not
make new clothes
for early falL There
may be some to re
model; for such I
would recommend
taking the dress
apart and washing
(if necessary) in
tepid water and
borax, says Virginia
in the Home Maker.
A tpblespoonful to
a pail of water has
been infallible in my
experience lor re
moving grease and
general soil. But
and the but is a big
one don't let wools
dry too long. It you
wash one piece at a
time, and that gently
(as you should do),
by the time the last
is'done the first will
A. Girls Costume.
be ready to iron; that is, if you wash, rinse
and hang up eacn piece as you go aiong.
Even if all parts of a dress are not soiled,
it is better to wash all, because any color
will fade a little in water. It is best to
wash even new pieces, which gives the
whole a like tone. Good material, care
fully washed, will come out like new and
may be enriched by some fresh goods if not
sufficient to make a dress entire.
Skirts will continue plain and full. For
girls over five feet tall the width is about
three and a half yards. A narrow ruffle
set below the edge is neat or a, bias
facing, bias bands from an inch to four1
wide, or rows of sutache, or hercules
braid are good to shorten the length of
the skirt, which Ehould reach to the
ankles, a length which may be maintained
until young" ladyhood is "reached. "Waist
trimmings are various and pretty. Bre
telles are cood for slender girls, while the
surplice is better for stout ones. The blouse
and jacket, open and sleevelessj will be
again popular, as it gives opportunity for
different colored blouses with the one skirt
Then, too, while weather is variable, the
jacket may he removed on warm days, and
resumed when going out The silk blouse
is, of course, dainty and stylish, but it does
not seem wise to dress a girl in silk for
school. That should be left for later days.
Iteantles for the Bride.
Prospective brides will be interestedin
the pattern trosseau dresses, among which
mav be mentioned an elegant dinner one of
brocaded white satin, savs the fashion writer
of ike Eivning World of Xew York. The
train is long, and round the front of the
skirt hangs a very deep handsome gold
fringe. The bodice laces at the back, and
is a low square, much ornamented by heavy
gold embroidery, of which also the long
Bleeves are composed; these appear from a
dranerv of white crepe de Chine. Along
girdle finLhed off with gold fringe adds
an artistic touch to the tout ensemble.
Then there is a reception gown of grayish
blue woollen crepe do Chine. The bodice
has two long coat ta. 1r, whilst the vest is
of white habit cloth with gold embroidery;
and the sleeves have bell-shaped cuffs.
A pretty tea gown is of striped satin and
crepe de Chine over white silk, a graceful
train falling from the collar. The angel
sleeves have epaulets of Indian embroidery,
which also forms the panels from which a
full front of crepe de Chine is seen. A long
opera cloak is made of cream Algerienne, a
golden tint being lent to the same by the
rich orange surah wkh which it is lined. A
becoming gold Marie Stuart collar renders
it a stylish garnunt The cloak is bordered
with cream feather trimming.
THE
BEAUTY DF THE SEA
Aa It Appeals to Bose Hawthorne
Lathrop at New London, Conn.
THE HISTORICAL ASSOCIATIONS.
Picturesgue BriTes and Enchanting Tieirs
of the Blue Surface.
THE ANNUAL UNIVERSITY BOAT EACE
rCOBIlESPONDEXCE OP THE DISPATCH.
New London-, Sept 10. New London
harbor is generously handsome and gener
ously safe. Groton and New London lie
on either side of it; and on either side of it
stand guard two warlike acclivities, or
rather gentle forts, of which one is Groton's
with its memory of courage; the other New
London's Fort Trumbull, with its still beat
ing pulses, fairy bugle call and the flag.
It is exhilarating to live in a historic
region: it is delicious to forget the exact
facts (there are bloodshed and agony about
exact historic facts) recorded in the town
chronicle and to know that they can take
care of themselves and will thrive for all
time, while we jog about in the atmosphere
of brave deeds for our little hour. In New
London and Groton Benedict Arnold burned
the houses of his friends and, commanding
the British, overcame by deputy a garrison
of his countrymen where now the Groton
Jon Griswold, its teeth and claws drawn,
sinks close to earth like a worn-out lion.
MONUMENT TO ARNOLD'S VICTIMS.
"We point to the monument (beside Fort
Griswold) which marks the martyrdomof
Arnold's victims, and tersely tell how its
towering shaft measures his folly as it
measures their pathetic renown. His dep
uty, supposed to have been a Major Broin
field or Bloomfield, seemed to have become
maddened by the unholy and deceptive
spirit which possessed Arnold himself; for
when Colonel Ledyard of the fort surren
dered his sword," Bromfield seized it and
plunged it up to the hilt in the officer's
bosom.
Over the foot or two of ground where so
much unmilitary cruelty was perpetrated
by the Englishman upon the American, is
a slab of stone with the inscription stating
the bald truth. Somehow, as the words are
read, one almost believes that a ghost trem
bles past, leading a train of still more shad
owy forms. A wholesale massacre of the
beseiged ensued, and a few of the fright
fully wounded men were thrown into a
wagon and rolled down a steep and rocky
hill, until stopped by a tree which inter
vened upon the road. The shock of this
collision sent forth a shriek' from the suf
ferers that was heard across the broad river
in New London, in spite of the din there of
sacking and burning.
WHEKE XATHANIEL HALE TAUGHT.
And in New London one of the stauncb
est men who ever threw off life here for
verity in heaven Nathan Hale taught
school. The little old house he taught in,
raised on stone and winking its wide-hung
roof at you with old-fashioned good-nature,
exists at a stone's throw from the busiest
point of the informal city: it is the quaint
visible evidence of a story as sublime as it
is simple, as heartrending in its ungar
nished conciseness as many; other tales of
American courage, which it would have
puzzled Homer to sing in bejeweled lines,
for want of the gods: those allies who s6
ornamented ancient verse.
But if it is exhilarating to live in New
London-becauseofits early importance.it
is doubrv so for its cool summer breezes
(Von Humbola pronounced us iieauuiui
ness superlative); its radient, though
roguishly frowning weather, and its pageant
of shipping. Shooting back and forth upon
the azure harbor go the yachts; some lovely
with their sails and angelic motion; others'
under the ban of steam, and, however smart
and slim, doomed to an ugly materiality of
common-sense. Farther off" are the half de
fined ships beautifnlj beautiful, and seem
ingly unconcerned with the interests of the
world; but sailing slowly away into the
future, the future beyond the line, for
which they are bound.
ITS BUGI.ES AND ITS GUNS.
The naval station is farther up the river,
which is fittingly called the Thames, And
there is a touch of unique value in the spot
which dispenses to its inhabitants the morn
ing and evening bugle notes of its fort, its
sunrise and sunset gun, and the great boom
of the salute of cannon at dusky 9 o' the
clock evenings. Moreover, we always have
the 9 o'clock' ringing of the First Church
bells, because New London remembers its
honored age and its age-long customs, as
Salem does also.
But of the earliest days there is but one
wooden house of consequence standing,
spared by Arnold's fire; it is the home of
the Hcmpsteads, of which family Stephen
Hempstead was a member, he who shared
arduously in the defense of Fort Griswold,
and afterward wrote an accountof the en
gagement The house yet keeps itself visi
ble (tall and liigh-shouldered) invisibly
among the gaudy paint of some modern
town dwellings which elbow up to it Its
wood is gray and silver; its unshnding ave
nue of EDarsa trees silver and broken: its
path bordered by hoary sheila which have
known storms as well as itself. Hush! did
some one shiver by its doorstep or was it
only an aspen tree mournfully bending in
the wind? Such questions spring 'to the
lips before a dwelling which' is so vision
like and so unforgctting.
ATTRACTIONS OF THE SEA.
There are moods in which the great blue
and white of the dangerons waters give us
the zest we want, as we sniff the salty frig
rance of them, and again there are moods in
which we ere worshipers of mother earth,
turning inland to the hills; such as Mon
adnoc, changing colora artistically and
gracefully moving through shadows, and up
heaving curve and precipice with Herculean
ease. To me the mountain, nevertheless,is
peace and the valley inaction as compared
with the bluster and glow of the seaside.
Herejiuman beings" can awake to such a
pitch of energy that they are expected to
sail even when they are seasick and to swim
even if they cannot; here the sunlight and
the ocean are in league to dazzle finite eyes,
into submission, and the roar of the waves
on days of autumnal storm says to us tran
sient creatures, who find the winds ringing
with the sound, that we are strangely small.
Of two admirations the sea has com
pelled my chief homage, and I gratefully
live beside it Poetic as are the heights, the
sea is more poetic. The captain of a sloop
is more poetic than a farmer; the gull than
the robin; the shell than the rapidly
bloomed flower; the lighthouse than the
railroad tower of signals.
And, bybe way, New London Light
house rises white as a Dominican nun be
fore the wild nature of the sea, looking
toward dangergrandlyjrcady while the world
is swamped in cayety; ready while the sky
is fair for the peril which rules her human
span.
WHITE BEACH IN THE SUN.
Off shore, poetic, runs upon the vision
from nowhere the pearl-sailed catboat, un
intellectually susceptible to any suggestion
of the wind; incapable of angry flurries as
it bends earnestly to any quarter; pretty
always, suddenly gone.- However, there is
a time when White Beach (as yet patron
ized chiefly by New Londoners alone) is
deserted, or at any rate is only visited by
the enthusiastic, and the boy or two who
bathe all day long. Scorching under the
piazza of one "of the many bathhouses, one's
eyes shut automatically to a line and one's
nose becomes disjointed by the glare. It is
the sea's hour, when its light is'too fine, its
ships too bright, its home of skv and cloud
too resplendent for the mortal capacity of
man. If one ventures to intrude, the
jocund sun laughs in one's face; and, lo, one
is confounded. But by 2:30 the light mod
erates, and gets more behind the wooded
inland of nicturesque Alewife's cave, and
itself looks off to the ocean, giving a chance
to us to drop brown glasses and novels, and
PITTSBURG DISPATCH,
to emerge from roofings, and to do nothing
but gaze and swim.
Leave the town in. a carriage for the
beach, driving past some opulent residences
(one being Mr. Palmer's proud white man
sion, once visited by Washington), Pner
avenues of elms, and through the inevitably
plain barter region; and when once beyond
the-arch of the railroad the sea puffs wel
come us, and there befalls a sight of blue
repousse water and sparkling sails, and a
gray distance at the harbor mouth.
ALONG BEAUTIFUL DRIVES.
On the right side of the harbor the hilly
border, called the Pequot road, which is
usually the favorite route, makes a frame to
the marine picture, and partly shades the
way withdts elms and maples and summer
boarding houses and dwellings. To the left
of the road a few willows and other tracery
divide the water scene into sections. Still
further to the left, on the Groton side of the
Btream, extends a drive reaching to the
farthest point of the shore. Perhaps the
"Atlanta" or the "Gushing" are enthroned
nearly in mid-stream. Perhaps the white
winged New York Yacht Club is dropping
in, and with a toy peal from its successive
guns, "flocks all by. itself ' in spite of Dup-
There is the Ocean road, on the ridge of 1
the hill, from which is seen a broad and
noble view, belittling the shipping. Then
there is the new wide Boulevard, which
glances comprehensively at the river, and
being nearer to it than is the upperavenue,
gives one a better outlook, yet misses the
perfect wonder of the view of the Sound
and Fisher's Island, and dim Long Island,
to be gained at the terminus of the Ocean
road VBut there is a charm about the drive
close besides the water, first described,
which changes but does not lessen at differ
ent contracted points.
A FOURTH OF JULY'ILLUMINATION.
Upon the Fourth of July the loyal fren
zies of the day are often crowned by an
illumination of the yachts which have an
chored beside New London. I once saw the
delightful scene under the cloud-adorned
effulgence of the moon. Many colors and
forms of fireworks begrimed the alter
nate darkness and whiteness spread oyer the
river mouth. In the void of shadow under
the hill opposite, a skeleton fleet was sta
tioned upon the purple water, which was
cobwebbed with silver and color. And the
yachtsmen aboard the radiant skeletons sent
up into the,deep well of the sky sprays of
momentary splendor. From many distances
ashore an answering array of curving color
responded, and a band somewhere was heard
everywhere.
As for the exhilarations of New London,
there is certainly yet another. The inter
collegiate rowing contest is to be endured
and honored. The shops burgeoa into sig
nificant tints; and a red orablie dress is
always supposed to be intentional, after the
arrival of the first boating men. The town
heart beats for a week for the races; and
when the day of the University struggle
between Harvard and Yale comes the town
eagerly hastens in its best clothes to endan
ger its life upon the unprofessional observa
tion train, which jangles and bumps along;
or upon the river craft which flops one
sidedly and in full scream after the contest
ants. THE UNIVERSITT BOAT RACE.
And, in the meantime, the boys glide to
the finish half invisible as monotonously
mechanical as good training can make them,
and outrageously overtrained. Yet a Uni
versity race is precisely as thrilling and ad
mirable as are all things strenuous, brief,
desperate and triumphant. After the vic
tory the city street of exchange nearly ex
plodes. The noise of rejoicing sometimes
ceases not until the next day. The collegian
word of awesome import finds himself a
free agent possessed of popular sympathy,
and he does all he knows now to deserve to
be feared. Occasionally" the lucky collese.
' whose men win the race, has its band and its
dervisn nance tnrougn nignways ana oy
ways. It always had its battle-cry, arid
conflagration of sticks and barrel staves;
and often its destruction of chairs and
crockery, just as in medieval times the
wine goblet of a King was dashed to the
ground that no plebian lip should touch it
after him. All of a sudden the red lights
and other sulphuric blazes and the common
crackers die away; and we have lived
through it all but the college boys are
gone. The luscious sunny day, the gleams
of river, the wooded hills, close a chapter in
their story with yells and bombs that are
a trifle hideous, but when the students
have departed we express our fondness for
them; we look at the photographed groups
of them in the shop windows; we regret
that we must forget them.
PLEASURES OF THE RESORT.
The "summer people" who come hither
have a life almost entirely their own; but I
am sure there is the best feeling between
the residents and the visitors, and there is
some exchange of civilities. For not yet
has the fashionable world dealt with our
town as it has with Newport, where there is
a crowding out o.f the nest in "the season"
almost cruel. Edwin Booth once made
White Beach his favorite resort Another
exquisite and strong artist has lately lived
for weeks beside it the poetess, Edith M.
Thomas.
The army and navy officers stationed here
for a year of or so at a time with their fam
ilies bring variety into our daily life By
their gay energy and pleasant sociability.
Th'e old whaling trade that made one of its
broadest marks here has been succeeded by
other industries, which in some cases fetch at
least a 50 per cent profit. There are silk mills,
ship building yards, adjacent granite quar
ries and a manufactory or two besides, which
succeed in making no disturbance at all.
Richardson's genius is exemplified in the
new library building it is a jewel of pretty
devices and clever designs, in the great
brick railroad station, Norman arched, and
in anewschoolhouse, the William Memorial
And the country scenery is magnificent.
Rose" Hawthorne Lathrop.
DEPEW'S EAILKOAD NOTIONS.
A Traveler Take Exception to H(j Claims
for American Superiority.
Detroit Free Press.
I had a meal on Mr. Depew's road the
other day which cost me a dollar. I gave a
quarter to the colored waiter who brought
me the dollar's worth, and he looked' at it
as if he had never seen such a small coin
before and wondered what it was used for.
He little suspected that I usually have my
midday meal for a quarter in Detroit
Now, Mr. Dcpew, let me tell you what hap
pened to me a few weeks ago on one ol the
despised Government lines in Europe. I
took the morning train from Basel to May
ence. The conductor after taking up my
ticket, gave me a slip of paper on which,
was printed in four languages the following
information: I was to tell the conductor
whether, at a certain point, I wanted din
ner, and if so, how many of them.
The dinner, the paper went on to
say, consisted of three kinds of meat, roost
chicken, three kinds of vegetables, bread,
butter, cheese, pudding and a half bottle of
either white or red wine. The cost of this
would be slightly over 50 cents, and all this
in a country where provisions are very
much dearer than they are in America.
There were two of us, and we ordered two
dinners. The'conductor pasted the figure
"two" on the window of the compartment
When we came to the place where the din
ners were to be had, waiters came rushing
along the platform with the dinners on
woodens trays, which the paper aforemen
tioned said would serve as an excellent table
for two people by merely sitting opposite,
each other and placing the boaid upon their
knees. Exceedingly clean table linen ac
companied the spread. The tronble with
American railways is that they seem to
look on a traveler as merely a victim to be
fleeced.
Giving the Snap Away.
-YTuhlngtoaPbit.
A New York paper deolares that no
Washington correspondent would be able to
hold his' place if he were to turn his pen
loose and describe all he sees and hears.
This is sheer nonsense. The great trouble
with the average Washington correspon
dent is that he describes about 60 per cent,
more than anybody else sees or hears.
SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 13,
MEN NEED TR4INING.
The Supply of Good Husbands Is
Short, Says Bessie Bramble.
BOYS SHOULD BE TAUGHT BETTER.
Their Ambition for Statesmanship, Art or
Science Is Secondary.
TURNING THE TABLES ON" GEITICS
tWBITTIS FOE THE DISPATCH.
There never was a time in 'the world's
history when women were more persistently
lectured and harangued than at present It
is assumed that they have been going wrong
ever since the world began, and what they
would come to, if let alone, the heavens
above only know. If they show a desire
for an education they are presumed to be
running right off the track prescribed, be
cause, as they are incessantly told, it is
their special business to become wives and
keep house, and that it is of vastly more
importance that they should be able to cook
and do housework, and devote themselves
wholly to the service of their husbands.
"There is practically but one vocation for
women," says one of these critics.- They
are born to be wives, and the duty of a wife
is to care for the home of the husband, who
cares for her."
This being true it follows that men were
born to be husbands, so, as thousands of
men on testimony of the same writer.do not
marry, because they cannot get wives up to
the dimensions of their pattern, it is plain
to see that men as well as women are as far
away from fulfilling the purpose for which
they were born as are some of the sisters.
turning the tables.
Men are born to be husbands, therefore
they should be trained for that vocation in
such manner as will make them good ones.
It should be drummed and dinned into their
ears from boyhood's sunny hours to man
hood's higher day, that sooner or later they
must settle down into husbands, and that
they may well fulfill this destiny, all else
must be made secondary. Education in
book knowledge is all very well, and
not to be despised, but to be well grounded
in the chief end of man being a husband
and making a wife comfortable and happy,
is better than being a senior wrangler, a
big general, a profound statesman, a great
financier, a golden-tongued orator, or a gor
geous millionaire. Of what account is a
highly accomplished man, or one who can
talK in 14 languages, who can impose
upon the world by his magnitude of mind,
or fill the sounding trump of fame with a
deathless name, if he makes his home and
wife unhappy by his lack of training as a
husband?
Socrates, the "father of philosophy," has
been set down as the most perfect example
of a wise and virtuous man; but he was evi
dently not well trained for a husband, since
he spent his time mainly in talking. In
stead of working at his trade and being a
good provider, he gadded around the public
gardens and frequented the corners of the
streets talking to any and everybody that
would listen to him or submit to his cross
questions.
no -wonder HIS "WIFE scolded.
Instead of making things pleasant for his
wife, and devoting nimself to her comfort,
he became one of the most ardent admirers
and most devoted friends .of the famous
Aspasia, whqse house he frequented for
philosophical diseussions. He carednothing
for anything beyond the necessities of life.
By the measure of these days he would, by
the practical people, be considered more of
a loafer than an industrious citizens, and
more shiftless, perhaps, than sensible. He
did not pretend to be a teacher, but devoted
himself simply to talking, or, as says some
one, ''to prattle without end." His phi
losophy shows him to havebee'n possessed of
great intellectual powers, and his historians
laud and magnify him as ".he most excel
lent and happy of mankind." It is the
general belief that his wife was a terrible
scold and made his home unhappy, but
it must be seen that if so sae had
ample provocation. Philosophizing is all
very well, but it does not keep the pot boil
ing or the cupboard filled, as Xanthippe had
full reason, it would appear, for knowing.
Then what woman, save an impossible an
gelic ideal, conld accept with meakness and
patience a husband who, while possessing
largely the "gift of the gab," had no talent
for getting on in the world. Like .many
another intellectual man,he was not trained
to be a good husband. It is more than
likely, too, that the Grecian matrons of
that elder day did not enjoy having their
husbands running aroundnfter the beautiful
Aspasia and other brilliant and intellectual
women, while they were shut up to the do
mestic companionship of the pots and pans
inthe Athenian kitchens. Moreover, the
report of the biographer, Zenophon, shows
that the story of his marriage being a fail
ure is exaggerated, since the testimony of
Socrates himself is cited to prove Xanthip
pe's possession of the highest domestic vir
tues, and also that he entertained for her
sincere regardand respect
CICERO'S MATRIMONIAL AFFAIRS.
Terentia, the wife of Cicero, was a
woman of talent and intelligence. She had
not been trained to be meek and submis
sive and confine her mind and powers to her
house alone, but had her own ambitions,
and, as Cicero himself relates, "she took a
greater part with him in politios than she
permitted him to have in domestic affairs."
With her he secured a large fortune. Upon
this he lived comfortably for many years at
his handsome country seats, and enjoyed
the society of philosophers and men of
letters. Finally he went into politics and
poetry. That he had not been trained to
be a good husband true and faithful to his
marriage vows to love, honor and cherish
nis wife until death should them part his
alter life shows, since when, after
SO years of her companionship, he
divorced Terentia and married his young
ward by whom he secured another great for
tune. He based this despicable action upon
the score of his wife's temper, extravagance
and neglect But since he had endured
these without complaint for 30 years or
more, it tan hardly be thought that he Bad
great reason for such an extreme measure.
All of his charges were denied by Terentia,
and that Cicero himself was to blame is
shown by his marriage shortly after to se
cure the large fortune of a young wife. "He
repudiated his wife with whom he had
grown old" a blot upon his character
which his most arden'. admirers have never
been able to whitewash. ,
THE CASE OF DICKENS.
But it is not necessary to go' back to the
ancients for example:. Charles Dickens in
these modern days is shown to be almost
another Cicero. His friends apologize for
him upon the ground of the irritability, of
the literary temperament, of the sensitive
ness of Dickens, and his intolerance of the
dullness and indolence that grow, as Ed
mund Yates puts it, upon the middle-aged
mothers of large families, but the truth of
the matter seems to have been that he had
not been trained to be a good husband, and
to a knowledge and understanding of his
responsibility-in maintaining the happiest
conditions of domestic life. Dickens had
his faults, as have all men and women, but
common sense and regard for the mother of
his children should have prevented the pub
lic exhibition of their domestic infelicities,
which stamped Dickens himself, with all
his matchless genius, as vain, selfish and
intolerant.
When the wives of famous men are left
to grow accustomed to neglect, when they
discover that the flatteries and adulation of
the world have more charm than the fire
side, when they are made to feel that
vanity and arrogance are taking the place
of the old love and attention, it is -not
wonderful they beoome indifferent and care
less. A man who values his wife's good
opinion and love has got to show himself
worthy of them. Pope writes of "the good
like Socrates," .but it is likely thatXan-
189L'
thippe had small opinion of the use of the
godliness of a man whose philosophy, how
ever profound, provided no adequate in
come for the support of the family and left
her to the loneliness of a neglected wife,
while he paid court to Aspasia or Theodite.
JOHN -WESLEY WAS TO BLAME.
The wife of John Wesley has been held
up to the reproach and contempt of all good
people for her temper and her tantrums.
What is said of her by all his biographers
may be trne. . That she made his' home un
happy and his life miserable is perhaps a
fact But the trouble -was probably owing
to his not having been trained to be a good
husband. No wjfe, even of the most saintly
or angelic character, could have endured his
"goings" on with patience or submission.
The gospel of free grace which he preached
with so (reat eloquence and effect, which
carried joy and gladness into so many
hearts oppressed with sadness, was doubt
less dulled to his wife by his lack of atten
tion and his failure as a husbancL. " Any
woman who reads his biography can under
stand the shortcomings on his part that gave
edgeto her temper and acid to her tongue.
A wife should be a keeper at home ana be
a loving and obedient subject to her lord
and master as he preached, but, with human
nature as it is, nobody can suppose that
Mrs. Wesley was happy when her "John"
was traveling around the country with
Grace Murray, even if she was only a sister
in the Lord, and bent only upon missionary
work. He had not been trained to be a
good husband, or he would have put him
self in her place, and have thought how he
would have liked it to be left alone, while
she went upon journeys to preach in com
pany with handsomer and more agreeable
men than himself.
CARLYLE'S OWN TESTIMONY.
Carlyle had not been trained to be a good
husband. His own mother, knowing his
temper and selfishness, said ''he would aye
be a hard man to live with," and how true
this was he frankly sets forth in bis "Rem
iniscences," when all too late for aught save
repentance and regret How far he with
all his powers of mind feU, short of being
a good husband is fully shown, not by com-
Elaints and charges upon her part, but by
is own testimony. He shirked all re
sponsibility for domestic happiness. It was
nothing to him that she toiled like a galley
slave for his comfort, to shield him from all
annoyance, to cover him from all distress.
He thought nothing of what she went
through to make his life smooth, to pre
serve him from bores, to allow nothing to
distract his mind or disturb his temper. It
was not in him to consider whether she had
any Bunshine in her life or not. He was of
the opinion of the critic that her vocation
was to humor his whims, to
suit herself to his dyspeptic temper,
to stand between him and .every
thing that was unpleasant He had no duty
in the matter of their marriage, in his opin
ion, save to furnisn the bread and butter,
which was made bitter indeed by his neglect
and indifference. But, while she fulfilled
to the utmost what the critic esteems the
duty of a wife, while she smothered her
ambitions in the carking cares of the
kitchen, while she wore out health and
strength in the storm and stress of house
keeping according to the code, while she
bowed down to "the irritability of the lit
erary temperame'nt." it has been made evi
dent by her letters that she was possessed
of intellectual powers that if exercised
would have earned more dollars than did
the ponderous writings of her husband. Her
talents would have been used much more
fitly if she had deputized her powers in the
kitchen to abler hands.
TWO SIDES OP IT. i
Good husbands are as badjy neerled as
good wives. Mothers are held respcnsible
lor the training of the latter, but both
fathers and mothers from the riches of their
experience should as they value the wel
fare of their children train their sons to
be good husbands. A vast deal is told, and
spoken, and published as to the duty of
wives. Kudrin says: "There is not a war
in the world no, nor an injustice but you
women are answerable for it; not in that
you have provoked, but in that you have
not hindered. Men by their nature are
prone to fight; they will fight for any cause
or none. There is no suffering, no injustice,
no misery in the earth, but the guilt of it
lies with you. Men can bear the sight of it,
but you should not be able to bear it"
There it is! There's the original Adam
for youl The world lieth in misery, the
earth is going to destruction. Marriage is
a failure they say. Happiness is a delusion.
And aU because the woman will not act up
to what she ws born for. All because she
is not trained to be a wife, not educated
only to keep house, not willing to sink her
self absolutely into a femme covxtrti".
Good husbands make happy wives.
Happy wives make happy homes. Happy
homes give all of the solid bliss there is in
life. Good husbands are greatly in demand,
but the supply is short How to make it
longer is at present a question more mo
mentous than how to make domestic martyrs
for the advautage of selfish men heretofore
held as gospel teaching. In the first place,
women should refuse to become martyrs,
and in the second men should be trained to
become good husbands. Many men have
that nobility of feeling which concedes to
their wives the same freedom they claim for
themselves, but there is still ample room for
a further advance in enlightenment and
civilization in. this matter. Men need to
know that coercion kills love and destroys
domestic happiness. They need to know
that to enjoy the best of life they must deal
out more generous slices of the golden rule.
Bessie Bramble.
BLOWING OUT A tJAITDLB.'
Soma Novel Tricks That Anyone
Can
Perform In the Home Circle.
St. Louis rost-Dlspatch.
There are many ways of blowing out a
candle and there are ways a candle can be
placed so that it can
not be easily ex
tinguished with a
pnff. The 'most
startling though,
perhaps, the most
dangerous way of
putting out the
flame is by a quick,
strong inhalation of
the breath a short
distance from the candle. It will appear as
if the flame had been literally swallowed.
To learn the 'trick it is first necessary to
learn the proper distance from the face to
hold the candle, but this can be done after
one or two trials.
Another pretty trick with a lighted can
dle can be done to show the peculiar way
air currents will travel. Place the candle
oil a table and in front of it and a few
inches away put an ordinary bottle.
Blow , directly at the bottle. It will
seem as if you blew right- through the bot
tle. A variation can be made by using two
Dottles instead of one. Place the bottles
side by side, about a quarter or .half an inch
apart BJght behind the space between the
two bottles place the lighted candle. If
the distances are properly adjusted they
can be so arranged that it is impossible to
blow ou't the candle by blowing through the
spaces between the bottles. There is an
other trick which is likewise as interesting.
Take a round disk of cardboaid, or one of
the common tin side shades and hold it be
'tween your mouth and the candle. Then
blow right at the card and you will find
tBat the flame of the candle will bend to
ward you and the cardboard instead of in
the direction yoirare blowing.
The Birthday Bines
Detroit Free Press.
A fad of the hour with gift bestowers is
the birthday ring, to which the long cher
ished "friendship" has given place. "The
demand forhe birthday ring," said a lead
ing jeweler, "is almost as great as that for
the souvenir spoon, and the tendency to no
tice the significance attached to the various
stones is even extended to engagement and
wedding presents. The prelty superstition
about a gem being sacred to some particular
month prevails In the leleotioni.
Wk
BELLES OF THE SEA
i
After Their Oatin? Are Enjoying the
Delights of Shopping.
COMING "WEDDING OP A BEATJTT.
loung- ladies' Schools Are Now Teaching
the Art of Marketing.
THE ORNAMENTATION OP THE HAIK
rWBITTEU FOB THE DISPATCH. J
There is something majestic in the way
in which New Yorkers sweep back to their
homes in the autumn. For the past week
people have been rushing into the city at
the rate of 10,000 persons per day! If one
could be suspended sufficiently high above
Manhattan Island to gain a view of the rail
roads centering here for 100 miles out on
every line, what an interesting spectacle
to watch these processions of steam wagons
slipping along to a common rendezvous!
And the influx of this army has been accom
plished with so little friction that, except
for the brief crowding at the city's gates
the ferries and the railway stations the
domiciled citizens have not noticed this
stupendous home-coming.
The streets of New York, however, begin
to show this mass of arrivals and the shop
keepers have discovered that a goodly pro
portion of their feminine customers are
with them again. And how eagerly lovely
woman begins the round of buying once
more! Fall shopping is one of her dear de
lights. She has been for some time de
prived of the pleasurable occupation, and
she has come home destitute "not a decent
gown left," she avers, though she looks
very decent indeed as she tripsrom one
counter to another. She is the picture of
health from her outing, her. eye is gratified
with the gay autumn fabrics spread before
her and her artistic sense alert and stimu
lated with the pleasurable difficulty which
a choice of their profusion offers. There Is
a subdued excitement in her mien. She
steps rapidly and joyously as if she were
full of cneerful commissions, and she is evi
dently very glad to be at home again.
Miss Sallie Hargons, the well-known
beauty of New York and Newport, who
Tuesday next will at the latter place be
come Mrs. Duncan Elliott, has enjoyed a
long and brilliant belleship. She is about
27, and, since her debut eight years ago, has
had the fashionable male world at her feet.
It is said she has refused more titles than
any girl in New York society, "preferring,
most sensibly, an American husband. Her
beauty is so purely Andalnsian that she is
frequently accredited with Spanish ancestry,
and the fact that her father accumulated his
fortune in the Mexican banking business
has helped this notion, but actually she is
French on her father's side and Irish on her
mother's. While not one of the tremendous
heiresses of the day, .she has about a mill
ion of money in her own right, and, as
her coming husband is rich, though not
startlingly so, the pair will have enough,
certainly," to keep the wolf well away from
the door.
Miss Hargous dresses in exquisite taste
and has a liking for Spanish effects, white
and gold and black and white, with droop
ing plumes and billowy laces. The wedding
ought to be a picture, as Mr. Elliott is a
tall, fine looking fellow whose manly grace
should well complement the rare beauty of
his bride.
"" o
Fans, any of the flexible woven gTasa
ones, procurable at an art store, make.pretty
hanging flower holders twisted into a cornu
conja and fitted with tin pockets.
Toilet sets in white and gold with mono
gram in gold letters on the side
of the pitcher, and at the bottom of the
bowl as well, in some cases are popular, but
not altogether pretty. Monogramming, if
one may be permitted the word, all one's
belongings is not considered good form.
Table and house linen and the family plate
may show the combined initials, but it is
neither effective nor in good taste to repeat
them indefinitely throughout the furnish
ings. A much more beautiful and artistic toilet
set has a mermaid in the bottom of
the bowl, with sea grasses spind
ling up the sides of the pitcher, and for the
smaller pieces groups of tiny shells in moss.
If one is skilled in china painting most
beautiful results may be obtained by pur
chasing a plain white set and reproducing
upon it some of the suitable aquatic designs
published by the various art journals.
Benevolent matrons are beginning to
think and work for December fairs for their
pet charities. A gleaning from some of the
summer fetes offers profitable suggestions.
For a variation of a church sociable a Jap
anese tea is an attractive scheme. The idea
is not a novelty, but its carrying out has
been so much abused that a successful and
correct Japanese tea may be set down as
something new. A young woman described
one of these affairs last spring with more
trnth than poetry: "I have been to a Jap
anese tea," she wrote; "it was a very Amer
ican supper with nasty little paper napkins
to wipe our mouths with."
But they do not all fit such a description.
If the "tea" is to be in a private house the
parlor may be hung with large Japanese
umbrellas from which tiny lanterns hang
ing, add much to the effect. Then beg
and borrow all the lacquer work cabinets
and tables, Japanese screens, panels and
hanging banners feasible, and dispose them
about the apartment Coax the loan of a
flowering almond tree from a friendly flor
ist and in tall Kioto vases put bunches of
the artificial flowers that -any Japanese
store can supply. Put the assistants in
Japanese costume, serve tea in bine and
white china, and cakes and fruit piled on
lacquer trays. Tne Japanese paper nap
kins will have to do service, but by sending
to some large center pretty designs in these
canbehad, For a limited private enter
tainment beautiful cloths and napkins can
be made by the loosely woven momie cloth,
fringed and embroidered in red and blue
tracery. A table for the sale of pound
packages of tea, Japanese nuts and sweet
meats, fans, ivories and various bric-a-brac
ENDORSEMENTS:
"I have examined Dr. Price's Delicious Flavoring Extract
and find them to be of rare excellence."
PETER COLLIER, Chief Chemist
Washington, D.C. Department of Agriculture.
"We haye much pleasure in bearing our testimony to the
flavor, aroma, and fine quality of Dr. Price's Delicious Flavor
ing Extracts. We find them to be of exceptional purity,
and free from any deleterious substances."
T.HOMAS HEYS, Professor of Chemistry,
Toronto School of Medicine.
PETER J. RICE, Analytical and Consulting Chemist
Toronto, Canada. Ontario School of Pharmacy.
"I 'find by analysis, Dr. Price's Delicious Flavoring Ex
tracts, Vanilla, Lemon, Orange, Almond, Rose, eta, to bo
made from true fruits, of perfect purity, and excellence of
flavor."
J. M. LONG, Professor of Chemistry,
Chicago Medical College and College of Phirauufk
13
affected by the almond-eyed Orientals adds!
to the effect and receipts, and may be read
ily stocked on commission from any Jap
anese store.
The latest addition to the curriculum of the
young ladies' school is that included in the
list of things taught in one of the New
York seminaries, viz: marketing. Once a
week the boarding pupils are to choose and
purchase a dinner under proper tutelage,
which shall comprise in variety that needed
in any well regulated establishment Inci
dental to the round among the butchers',
grocers' and fish stalls will be furnished
practical information and object lessons in
the art or science of house marketing. And
perhaps the graduate of this institution will
not order ''roast veal" sent home, nor go to
the baker's for "sweet breads," as young
housekeepers have been known to do. It is
a good beginning.
For hair ornaments steel, gilt and silver
are especially suited to dark hair. The
woman with fair hair should wear amber
and clear tortoise shell; she may for even
ing use jeweled ornaments and some of tho
fancy Parisian novelties on occasion.
A cluster of green sweet water grapes,
which is a new mount, looks well in light,
fluffy hair, but would show most distress
ingly against dark or black locks. French
womenregard their hair ornaments with
great attention, taking as much care to suit
ably complete the coiffure toilet as that of
the corsage. Except against a beautiful
neck there is no part of a woman's costuma
where gems may be so well displayed as in
the hair.
The question of flowers at funerals has
for some time been properly settled. Family
friends provide them with occasionally
an offering from some intimate, closely as
sociated with'the beloved dead. Set pie,ces
are not now regarded with favor and are
rarely used except in the case of a united
testimonial, as from a club or society. A
box of loose flowers is considered in tha
best taste to send to the house of mourning
and custom no longer decrees that the blos
soms shall be only white ones. A wreath of
brilliant scarlet flowers was laid upon the
casket of a young society girl, whose sad
death recently, by drowning, threw a wide
circle into mourning, and roses of every
hue are frequent accompaniments to the
funeral palL For elderly persons a classic
wreath of glossy laurel, or two or three of
the long sago palm leaves tied together
with wide purple, is a correct funeral offer
ing.
Wedding ceremonies as well as the "sin
ister pageant of death" have fatten on much
of color. Bridal white applies only to the
bride herself, tne decorations of the rooms
or church and the gowning of the bride's at
tendants showing a riot of color. At a
recent society wedding in Saratoga the
maid-of-honor and the bridesmaids all wore
frocks of white chiffon trimmed with rib
bons of red velvet, and Gainsborough white
hats with long red feathers. Dainty red
shoes went peeping in and tint, not like
white, but red mice, and buncfltn of white
roses with a single red one. m each were
carried. Miss Forbes-Leilte's much talked
of London wedding was a yellow one with,
however, a white wedding bell that was a
novelty and delight to the English guest
who had never seen one.
o
English women have returned to square
shoes, but the Piccadilly pointed toe is still
preferred by fashionable women this side
the water.
White stocking8,Balbriggan and silk,have
been worn this season with white shoes and
white and light muslin or cambric gowns.
Does this mean a return to white stockings
with black shoes? It is to be hoped it does
not
Broad strings, and it is said, very long
ones, reaching perhaps to the very nem of
the skirt, are a feature of imported autumn
bonnets.
French women use tan undressed kid
gloves in deep mourning for traveling and
shopping wear.
Margaret H. Welch.
Bonny Jeems.
FMUdelpbla Press.
I.
Come, Gentle Jeems, and sit by me;
I'll tell you many things,
Of Knights so hold and castles old.
And mighty fairy Icings.
it
Of ladles fair, who live in air,
And Imps who dwell in caves;
And mermaids rare who comb their hair
Beneath the briny waves.
Oh, In my store, I have far more
Of wonders than you'd think.
I AU jewels bright, deep hid from slrtt,
rv.
But deep they're stored, that treasure hoard,
Where nono I know may peep;
But yon may look within that nook,
Though only when yoa sleep,
y.
Bo np to bed, you sleepy head,
My bonny, bonny Jeems,
And I will make the fairies take
.My darling there In dreams..
A Practical Lad.
Bob Burdette In Philadelphia Press.
"Why should we not cry oyer rpillel
milk?" asked the teacher.
"Because," replied the favorite scholar,
"we can recover about half of it by going
to the nearest hydrant"
m
J