fWWTIW
THE PITTSBURG- DISFA.TOH, . SUNDAY,' ATTGUST 80 1891,
18
LATE FASHTOJJS AND BADS.
XnnstratloBS Thai Slay 8ugst TJsefoJ Ideas
tor the Home Drestmaker Tail Notion
In Dreta and Millinery Fact About
Artificial Beauty.
A novelty in vests this fall Is shown here
with. It is to be worn, says Harper's
Eaxr, in an open
bodice. It is of red
crape, pleated, at
tached to a standing
collar of the same,
and with a belt of
folds at the waist. It
is spangled with
star-shaped Jet nail
heads. The dress
shown In the second
Illustration of this
column is made of
embroidered ecru
batiste. A bordered
flonnco headed by a
ruche is around the
bottom of the skirt;
the top is finished
rith a folded ribbon
belt and a bow at
the back. The bodice,
the edge cf which is slipped under the
skirt, has fichu drapery formed by two
seirfs which are shirred on the shoulders,
draped across the front and fastened under
the bow at the back, hanging thence in long
tash ends.
The other illustrations to-day will serre
to stimulate the imagination cf the horn
dressmakers. Each is in style for its partio
ltr purpose, and considerable latitude is at
lowed in the selection of materials.
DKATIXQ THE SKIKXS.
There is a decided tendency to 4rspe
skirts onoe more: to lift them OTer one or
both hips is almost
Invariably done in
. mort of the new
gowns. In many
of the elaborate
costumes tahliers
of lace or some
contrasting mate
rial are slightly
drawn to one side
by a metal clasp
or a forreau of rib
bons. A charming
example of this
last style of drap
ery I saw in a gown
intended for a petit
diner, or a small
"evening," savs a
writer in the New
York Press. It was
a dull rose-colored
bengaline: the skirt itself is quite plain,
with a heavily plaited demi-train, but
across the front is draped a tablier of thin
black grenadine, embroidered with great jet
daisies. This tablier falls straight to the
hem from the rijjht hip, and is lifted far
back on the left side by a heavy rope of jet
that evidently is a continuation of a girdle
loosely tied about the short round bodice.
Daisy embroidered grenadine forms a
lastron covering the front of the bodice,
and is gathered high on the right shoulder
bv a large j"t ornament. The sleeves are of
the light black material, and very full and
high on the shoulder.
The fin de Steele man has developed an un
manly loc for feminine sshes and fripper
ies, but the woman of the diy goes him one
better in her appropriation and adaptation
of manly attire. Her fall bodice is more
masculine than her summer reefer. Its
favorite design is an adaptation of the long
English, frock coat, with a double-breasted
waistcoat and fancy shirt beneath.
GOWNS FOB TKATELnnj.
One of the
leuched upon
prettiest thai has vet been
the tide belongs to an early
fall traveling gown
of vivogne in rus
set cloth, edged
with ecru braid
liberally inter
woven "with gold,
says the If ew York
Sun. This coat
falls awav from a
tight waistcoat of
suede leatherin the
natural color worn
over a silk shirt of
gay Scotch plaids
on an ecru ground.
For vouthful fig
ures the Eton jack
et, with laced
lanels ouenintr over
vf. a waistcoat of plaid
nljttl. .In.nil .,!.
uuiu uwcu iinua
starched cambric
shirt and Standing
collar, is extreme
ly swagger.
Another autum-
cal jaunting and jannty costume is of Har
ris cloth, with its faint suggestive odor of
the peat-warmed huts where it is woven.
The doable-breasted frock coat has a double
frilled barque, which only the slightest of
TPomer may attempt, to the envy of all
their plumper sisters. The finish of this
suit is simple stitchings of heavy silk, but
the gleam of color, warm and rich, which is
E'ven by having all the capes and frills
aed with nasturtium yellow must be seen
to be appreciated.
Shamrock leaves cannot be used as dress
decorations. Tney are absolutely prohibited
la England, and in America it is at least
bad taste to wear them. And why are the
shamrocks tabooed? you ask. "Why should
the graceful, poetic little green leaves be
seen no more upon the gowns which our
modish women are wont to wear? "Why,
Just ior this reason, explains the Hew York
Advertiser. The shamrock bears a striking
resemblance, to the ace of clubs, and you
know it is not good taste to appear is so-
way" a pack of cards. Since the recent little
baccarat disagreement no one who pretends
to be good form mentions card playing when
In company, and to decorate one's self with
a gown suggesting a pock of cards is in the
worst of bad taste.
BACCARAT AN D DRESS OEXAMENTATIOIT.
Mrs. Arthur "Wilson, the who was so
closely identified with the baccarat trouble,
nearly put her foot in.it most awkwardly.
Ehe was invited to Lord Salisbury's gar
den partv, and she ordered a dress of yel
low mulf, with shamrock leaves scattered
all over it. "When the dress came home,
and she was showing it to an admiring audi
ence of lady friends, one of them ex
claimed: "Why, Mrs. "Wilson, how closely that
dress resembles a pa:k of cards all aces of
clubs
fedt ' Vila
Mb
!"'.iWii
' il,v M
fti'lM
I' 'ii '
1 '...'iu
V .1 .('I 4 S?r
' 'in . : i v
. Mi3PT
' .- "Kr
- - . dK
Of course Sirs. Wilson bad to send the
dress back, and at the last moment she was
put under tbe necessity of ordering another
gown for the garden party.
Properly to characterize the late summer
miilinery of this season the word pictur
esque would have to be written in capital
letters, says the New York Times. The
outdoor life, more generally approved each
year, is especially favorable to the develop
ment of the picturesque in millinery. The
long list of open-air sports calls for, or at
least permits, headgear of such surprising
tendencies that it is impossible to imagine
what vagary may be next brought out.
Aside from the coquettish arrangements
prepared for outing uses, there are innum
erable varieties of beach and country hats,
and, most remarkable of all, the woaderful
creations in which society comes forth to its
alfresco entertainments. A peculiar feat
ure of this summer's hats ot every style is
the beauty of the fanciful straws; such in
genious braidings, curlings and twistings of
straw fibers never delighted wpman's eyes
before. The straw which is wrought into
these queer curlicues is gathered from all
quarters of the globe, while the straws and
grasses dried in our own harvest fields and
on our prairies are being utilized with
charming results.
FACT VXESUS FICTION.
It rs curious to note how different the-shop
girl offset is from the shop girl of fiction.
xne snog girt 01
fiction is a faded,
hollow-eyed crea
ture, with insuf
ficient clothing
and an abrasion in
the elbow of her
waist. The shop
girl of fact is by
no means emaci
ated, and her
clothes are sot
only sufficient in
quantity, butfash
fonable'in quality
and style. The
shop girl of fiction
crawls home to
her dim and cheer
less tenement to
languish out a
lonely evening be
side "a hard bed
and a stove with a
broken lid, in a
room periodically
invaded by a
grasping landlord.
The shop girl of
fact goes laughing
and chattering home with a bevy of other
girls. "When she wants a day oft to go on
an excursion she somehow manages to get
it, whereas the shop girl of fiction is dis
charged for staying at home half a day in
attendance on a sick brother.
The shop girl of fact has no path of roses,
to bo sure. But she is not always a slave,
driven by low-browed ruffians with good
clothes and diamond shirt studs; and she
does not always wish she was something
else. She generally prefers being a shop
girl to an upstairs girl, for instance; while
general housework is something she never
would think of taking from the girls who
have just crossed the pond. The social
economist persists in never understanding
this, but it is so.
THE ABTHTCIAL -WOMA2T.
False teeth are happily on the decline,
continues the New YJork Sun. .There is
nothing so sugges
tive of the grinning
symbols of death and
decay. And, worse
than all the rest,
they will rattle, and
are always left be
hind in case of fire
or disaster. Dentists
are becoming more
and more skillful in
the preservation of
this, one of women's
chief beauties, and
women will suffer
tortures for the sake
of having one tooth
saved.
Let us say nothing
of the complexion.
Ye cods! where is
the woman who ever lets us see what the
natural cuticle is like? The spotted veil
has wrought tbe destruction of all principle
in this matter, and grease paint, insiduous,
smooth, difficult of detection, and becoming,
is in favor with all Eve's daughters.
Never is tne artificiality of the fashion
able woman so apparent as when she' goes
among her country cousins in the summer.
How slim and straight and tall she has
frown, how light her foot in its perfectly
tted boot, how fresh and sea-shell like her
-skin, how exquisitely neat and dainty the
fit and fall of her perfumed cowns and'man
tles! Her own youngest sister looks old
and plain beside her; her figure is bad, her
Bkin seems coarse and broiv n, and yet the
country sister lives in the purer air and sun
shine, goes to sleep earlier, and rests more
in a day than the city woman rests in a
week. Much is said anil written with truth
about the wear and tear of city life, and yet,
thanks to milincr and mantua maker, to" the
hairdresser and cosmetic inventor, to cotton
and whalebone, padding and pinching, the
city woman of 60 looks younger and fairer
than the country woman of 35.
KOTIONS IS 2JECKWKAB.
These are the days of chiffon and lace and
other dainty and gauzy trimmings, every
sort of gown, the cotton as well as the silk
one. being ornamented with them. Jabots.
collarettes or fichus are worn on everything
and almost upon every occasion, and noth
ing could be prettier " than some of them.
One design is of cream silk gauze, spotted
with silver and corn-flower-blue. Another
is a collarette and plastron of gold galon,
jetted and framed with a shell trimming of
pink gauze, edged with jet beads. Then
there is a Louis .WJL necktie of white
gauze, composed of neckband, jabot and
large bow, which is daintily draped under
a jewelled ornament, corresponding with
the gems shining on the "Venetian lace.
Another design is a flounce front of pale
blue embroidered chiffon, attached to cir
cular fold of surah of the 6ame color. A
"Toby" collarette is of white net, dotted with
pink chenille and crystal beads. In front
the box-plaits are arranged so as to form a
fan-shaped bib. A parure of Renaissance
guipure consists ot vandyked epaulettes
and upright collar, finished off with a
pointed yoke.
A Fact Bluntly Told.
St. Loots Republic ,
Young A, who is well known on "West
Norgan street, is very rich and very reck
less, a high-flyer whose kites scrape tlie
empyrean. A friend commenting on his
dissipated career asked:
"He is very rich, I understand, living on
his income?"
"No, dying on his income," was the re-
joinaer.
A dose of lemon juice in a cup of black
c
.pence cures neaoaono.
4S3
T?-J''l
i Ml
mmj
LBIUET OF A LMCH.
Erom Simple Bepast It Has Grows
to Ostentations Affair.
A FORTUNE CAff BE SPENT OZWN&r,
nw-Fcur Quarters of the GMb&TSritota:
Furnishing the Table.
EECIF18 FOE TABIOUS DELICACIES
rWMTTtaC fOTt THK SI8PATCX.1
A Gotblo window, where a damask curtate
Hade the blank daylight snadowy and tra-
certaln,
A slab ot agate In four eagles' talons
Held neatly up, and merely taught to 'bal
ance A porcelain dish, o'er which In many
cluster
Black grapes hangdown, doad. rip and wlttt-
out lnster.
A melon cut in thin, delicious siloes,
A cake that seemed mosaic, rich In spleen
Two china cups, witlr golden tulips sunny,
And rich Insido with ohocolate like honeyi
And she and I, the banquet scene complet
ing With dreamy worda, and Tory pleasant a
lng. If all lunches eould be as poetic and as
simple and as luxurious as this the hostess
would have little trouble in giving a lunch.
But alas! from the slice of cold ham or
chicken, and bread and butter, we have
now the grand Bunt breakfast, the ladles'
lunch (most delicious of luxurious time
killers). The lunch, therefore, has become
in the house of the opulent as elaborate as
the dinner.
Twenty vears ago in England I had the
pleasure of lunching with Lord Houghton,
and I well remember the simplicity of that
meal. A cup of bouillon, a joint of mutton,
roasted and carved by the host, a tart, and
some peaches (very fine hot-house fruit)and
a glass of sherrv, was all that was served on
a very plain table to 20 guests. But what
a company of wits, belles and beauties we
had to eat it,
BROWNING'S STaiPIiE BUiIi OF FAKH.
I once" lunched with Browning on a much
simpler bill of fare. I have lunched at the
beautiful home of Sir John Killais on,what
might have been a good family dinner with
us. And I have lunched in Hamton Court,
in the apartments of Mr. Beresiord (now
dead), who was a friend of George IV.
and an old Tory whipper-in, on a slice of
cold meat, a cutlet, a gooseberry tart, anil
some strawberries as large as tomatoes from
the garden which was once Anne Boleyn's.
"What a great difference between these
lunches and a ladies' lunch in New York,
which, laid for 28 people, offers every kind
of wine, every luxury of fish, flesa and
fowl, flowers which exhibit the most over
whelming luxury of an extravagant period
with fruits and bonbons and bonbonnieres,
with painted fans to carry home, with rib
bons on wmen is paintea one s monogram,
etc, etc I have seen 'daisies, buttercups
and red clover, field grasses and dandelions
in January at a ladies' lunch, as the last
concession of a fancy for what is unusual.
The order having been given in September,
the facile gardener raised these flowers for
this especial lunch. JTar more expensive
than roses at a dollar apiece this bringing of
May into January! It would be impossible
to say where luxury mould stop, and,
if people can afford it, there is no necessity
of its stopping. It is only to be regretted
that luxury frightens those who might like
to give simple lunches.
TES EKOUOH FOB LTOTCH.
A lunch party of ladies should not be
crowded, as handsome gowns take up a
great deal of room, and therefore a lunch of
ten ladies in a moderate house is better than
a larger nnmber. As ladies always wear
their bonnets the room should not be too
hot. The menu is very much thesame as a
dinner, excepting the soup. In its place
cups of bouillon or of clam juice, boiled
with cream, and a bit of sherry (very nice)
are placed before each plate. There follows
presumably a plate of lobster croquettes
with a -rich Bauce, filet de boeut, with
truffles and mushrooms, sweetbread and
green peas, perhaps asparagus or-cauli-liower..
Then comes the sorbet or Boxnan punch,
much needed to' cool the palate and to in
vigorate the appetite for further delicacies.
The Eoman punch is now often served in
very fanciful frozen shapes of ice, resemb
ling roses, or fruit of various kinds. If a
ladyis not nearaconfectionershe shonldlearn
to make this herself. It is very easy, only
compounding it at first with care, maras
chino cordial or fine old Jamaica rum being
mixed with'water and sugar as lor a unch,
and well frozen. The game follows, and
the salad. Thase two are often served to
gether. After that the ices and fruit.
Cheese is rarely offered at a ladies' lunch,
excepting in the form of cheese straws.
Chambeetia, Chateau, Yquam, champagne
and claret are the favorite wines, although
sherry and Madeira are offered. Cordial is
offered afterward, with the coffee,' and a la
dies' lunch party is supposed to begin at
1 and end at 3.
SMALL FORTUNES IN THE DKAPEBX.
It is a delightful way of showing off all
one's pretty things. At a luncheon in New
York, I have seen a tablecloth of linen, into
which has been inserted Duchesse lace,
worth doubtless several hundred dollars,
the napkins all trimmed with Duchesse,
worth at least 520 apiece, if not more. This
elegant drapery was thrown over a woolen
broadcloth underpiece, of a pale lilac or red;
the effect enchanting. In the middle of the
table was u grand epergne of the. time of
Louis Seize, the glass and china superb. At
the proper angle stood silver and gold cups.
ornamental pictures and claret jugs. At
every lady's plate stood a splendid Bouquet
tied with a long satin ribbon, and various
small favors, as fans and fanciful menus,
were given.
As the lunch went on we were treated to
new surprises ot napery and of Sevres
plates. The napkins became Bussian, em
broidered with gold thread, as the spoons
and forks were also of Kussian silver and
gold, beautifully enameled. Then came
those embroidered with heraldic- animals
the lion and the two-headed eagle and
griffin the monogram gracefully inter
twined. Then came plates, apparently of
solid gold and beautiful workmanship. And
the Koman punch was hidden in the heart
of a waterlily, which looked uncommonly
innocent with its heart of fire.
LTTSUBr PAE EXCELLENCE
The servicef this lunch was so perfect
that we did nSAec how we were served; it
all moved as ii to music Pleasant chat
was the only addition which our hosless left
for us to add to her hosnitalitv. T hnva
lunched at many great houses all over the j
world, but 1 have never seen so luxurious a
picture at lunch as this was.
It has been a question among ladies
whether oysters on the half-shell should be
served at a lady's lunch. For my part, I
think that thev should, although many la
dies prefer'to begin with the bouillon. All
sorts of hors d'osuvre, like olives, anchoves
and other relishes, are in order. Jn sum
jner ladies sometimes serve's cold luncheon,
beginning with iced bouillon, salmon cov
ered with a green sauce, cold birds and
salads, ices and strawberries or peaches
frozen in cream. Cold asparagus dressed as
a salad is very good at this meal.
In English country houses the luncheon
is a very solid meal, beginning with a stout
roast with hot vegetables, while chicken
salad, a cold ham and various meat pies
stand on the sideboard. The gentlemen get
upa and help the ladies; the servants, after
going about once or twice, often leave the
room that conversation may be more free.
ETIQUETTE OF THE INVITATION.
The etiquette of invitations for a ladies'
lunch is the same as that of a dinner in the
matter of invitations. They are sent out a
fortnight before; thev are carefully en
graved, or they are written on note paper.
MKS. SOMERYIXLB
Ecquals the Pleasura cf
1TBS. MOSTQOMEBT'fl
Company at Lunch on Thursday, i
at 1 o'clock.
S.S. r.p.-
Thisshould beanswered-nt once, and the
whore engagement treated with the grarltT
f a dinner engagement.
" These lunch parties are very convenient
for ladies who, from illness or indisposition
to society, cannot go out in the evening. It
is also very convenient if the lady of the
-house has a husband who does not liko
society and who finds a dinner party a bore.
The usual custom is for ladies to dress in
dark Btreet dresses, and their very -best.
That with an American lady means very
much, for an American husband "stops Tit
no expense." "Worth says that American
women are the best customers he has, far
better than queens. They ask the price,and
occasionally naggle; American women may
ask the price, but the order is, "the very
best you can do."
THE HOTTE FOB THE LTOTCH.
"What time did our forefathers lunch?
In the reign of Francis L the polite French
rose at 6, dined at 9, supped at 5, and went
to bed at 9. Froissart speaks of "waiting
upon the Duke of Lancaster at G in the af
ternoon after he had supped." If ourancest
ors dined at 9 when did they lunch? After
some centuries the dinner hour grew to bo
10 in the morning, by which time they had
besieged a town and burned up a dozen her
etics probably to give them a good appetite,
a sort of an avant gout. Dinner was what
our late breakfasts are. The later hours
now in vogue did not prevail until after the
Bestoration. But lunch has remained fast
ened at 1 o'clock for a number of years at
least.
In England, curiously enough,, they give
you no napkins at this meal, but the nature
.of the food certainly requires them. A hunt
breakfast in America is of course a hearty
meal, at which tbe men and women are
asked who have an idea of riding to hounds.
It is usually served at little tables, and the
meal begins with hot bouillon. It is a heartier
meal than a lady's lunch and as luxurious
as the hostess pleases. But it does not wind
up with ices and fruits, although it may be
gin with an orange or grape fruit salad.
Much more wine is drunk than at a lady's
lunch, and yet somo hunters prefer to begin
the day with tea only. Everything should
be offered, and what 'is not liked can be
refused.
COSTS A THOUSAND DOLLARS.
Luncheon is apt to be a lively and exhil
arating occasion. It is the best moment in
the day to some people. A thonsand dol
lars is not an unusual sum to expend on a
ladies' lunch in New York for 18 or 25
guests, counting the favors, the flowers, the
wines, and the viands, and even then we
have not entered into cost of the China, the
glass, porcelain, cloisonne, Dresden, Sevres
and silver, which make the table a picture.
The jeweled goblets from Carlsbad, the
knives and forks with crystal handles, set
in silver, from Bohemia, and the endless
succession of beautiful plates who shall
estimate the cost of all this?
As to the precedence of plates, It Is meet
that China, oldest of nations, should suffice
for the soup. The oysters have already
been served on shell-like Majolica. Eng
land and maritime nations, surrounded by
ocean, must furnish the plates for the fish.
For the roast, too, what plates so good as
Doulton, real English, substantial faience?
For the "Bouchers a la Belne," and all the
entrees, we must have Sevres again. But
do not give us "the beautiful head of Lam
balle," on a plate. I declare I have had a
portrait of Marie Antoinette given me to
eat off of which has taken away my appetite.
Japanese will do for the "filet nux cham-
pigions," the venison, the pieces de resist-'
ance, as well as, English. Japanese plates
are strong. But here weare running into
dinner; indeed, these two feasts do run into
each other.
AFTEBPAEX OF TUB LTOTCH.
One should not hare a roast at a ladles
lunch, unless it is a roast pheasant. Dres
den china plates, painted with fruits and
flowers, should be used for the dessert. On
these choice plates, with perforated edges
marked "A E." on 'the back, should lie
the ices frozen as natural fruits. "We can
scarcely tell the frozen banana or peach be
fore us lull or luciouj trait, irom tbe
painted banana on our plate.
And as to the candied fruit, we must
again have Sevres. Then a gold dish filled
with rose water must be passed. . "VVdip a
bit of the napkin in it (for in this obuntry
we do have napkins with our luncheon) and
wipe our lips and fingers. This is called a
Trempoir.
The cordials at the end of the dinner must
be served in cups of Bussian gold filagree
supporting glass. There is an analosr be
tween their rival lucious richness, the cor
dial and the cup. The coffee cups must be
thin as egg shells, of the most delicate
French china. Or even American china
will do. "We make most delicate china and
porcelain cups ourselves nowadays at New
ark, Trenton and a dozen other places.
There is a vast deal of waste in offering so
much wine at a ladies' lunch. American
women cannot drink much wine; the climate
forbids it. "We have not been brought up on
beer, or on anything more stimulating than
ice water. Foreign physicians say that this
is the cause of all our woes, our dyspepsia,
our nervous exhaustion, our rheumatism
and hysteria.
DELIGHTS OF X1US WINE CUF. ,
Bnt I believe that climate and constitu
tion decide these things for us. "We are
.not prone to over-cat ourselves, to drink
too much wine, and if the absence of these
grosser tastes is visible in pale cheeks and
thin arms, is not that better than the other
extremes. All entertaining can go on per
fectly well without wine if people so de
cide It would be impossible, however, to
make many poetical quotations without an
allusion to the "ruby," as Dick Swiveller
called it. May the temperance movement
forgive us. Since Cleopatra dissolved the
Searl, the wine" cup has held the gems of
uman fancy.
Champagne Cup One pint bottle of soda
water, one quart dry champagne, one wine
glass of brandy, a few fresh strawberries, a
peach quartcied, sugar to taste, cracked ice.
Anothor recipe: One quart dry champagne,
one pint bottlq of Khiue wine, fruit ana Ice
as above, cracked ice, mix In a large pitcher.
Claret Cup: One bottle of claret, ono pint
bottle or soda water, one wineglass brandy,
hall a wineglass of lemon Juice, half a pound
of lump sugar, a few slices of fresh cucum
ber; mix in cracked ice.
Mint Julep: Fresh mint, a few drops of
orange bitters and maraschino, a small glass
of liquor, brandy or whisky, put in a tum
bler half full of broken ice .shake well, and
.servo with fruit on top, with straws.
Another recipe for mint Julep: Haifa class
of port wine, a Tew drops ot maraschino,
mint, sucar and thin a slice of lemon, shake
the cracked ice from the glass, put straw
berry or pineapple in with the mint,
BEFBESHTNO AND "WHOLESOMB,
Turkish Sherbets: Extract by pressure or
infusion tho rich juice and fine perfume ot
any of the odoriferous flowers, as violet, rose
or orange flower, cr fruits, mix them In any
number or quantity to taste. When these
essences, extracts or infusions are Drenarad.
they may be immediately used by adding a
proper proportion of sugar or sirup and
water; somo acid fruit, suoh as lemon or
Somegranate, are used to raise the flavor,
ut not to overpower tho chief perfume.
Fill the cup with cracked Ice and add what
wine or spirit is preferred.
Claret Cobbler: One bottle wine, one bottle
Apollinans or sipnon, one lemon, naif a
pound of sugar; serve with ice.
Champagne Cobbler: One bottle of cham
pagne, one-half bottle of white wine, much
cracked Ice, strawberries, peaches or or
anges, sliced; sugar to taste.
Sherry Cobbler: Full wineglass of sherry,
very little brandy, sugar, sliced lemon,
cracked ice. This is but ono tumblerful.
Kimmcl: This liquor is very good served
with sliaveu ice in small green claret cups.
Punch: Ono bottle Arrac, one bottle
brandy, two quart bottles dry champagne,
one tumblerful of orange enracoa, one pound
of cracked sugar, bait a dozen lemons, sliced,'
half a dozen oranges, sliced. Fill the bowl
with large lump of Ice and add one quart of
water.
Shandygaff: Landon porter and ginger ale,
Tmif and half. H. E. W. Suilkwood.
Prescribed by tho Authorities.
Chicago Trlbnne.3
Sympathetic but near-sighted lady (to
tramp filling temporary engagement at
Btono pile) Poor man! That work seems
hard and you look dreadfully tired. Don't
you evor take a vacation?
Tramp (pounding away drearily) I'm on
my vacation now, mum.
Invalids and American Fort TTlne.
No American wines have received the en
dorsements that have been accorded to
Sneer's port crape wine, claret and climax
brandy,.
OLD--TIME CUSTOMS.
Revelations Found In a Register of
1766 by Bessie Bramble.
CAPITAL CRIMES IS MGLAKI).
Jfadarae de Pompadour's Position and
Power in tho French Court
HOW A BEIDB 6ATED HBE SOWN
IWKXTTX?T TOR TBS DrSTATCltf
The forgers, embezzlers and thieves of to
day have reason to congratulate themselves
that they dld,not live in 1766. In the "An
nual Kegister" of that year is recorded a
large number of executions for offenses in
their line. A man named Edward McGinnis
and his sister were sentenced to death for
stealing some silver plate from the house of
their master. John "Wilfordwas executed
for stealing a horse, and a lady's maid, for
appropriating a piece of jewelry that be
longed to her mistress, was duly tried and,
sentenced to death, while John "Wilson, for
forging a bill of exchange for l,O00, was
convicted and speedily put to death.
How the more humanesentiments of ptty,
sympathy and benevolence have' grown
since those days Is shown by the milder
punishments meted out to the worst of
fenders, and by the increasing opposition to
capital punishment, even for murder. Pris
oners to-day in our palatial penitentiaries
in all save liberty are better off than many
honest folks outside. They suffer not from
the" cold of winter or the heat of summers.
They have good food, regular employment,
and plenty to read. Benevolence is ever at
work in their behalf, and kind friends are
ever praying and working for their reform.
BESTJLTS OF OLD METHODS.
If the old English way were in rogue
the executioners would be kept busy the
rascals would not long be the subjects of
prayer nor would the burglars and thieves
revel in fine linen and fare sumptuously
every day, with little to be dreaded in store
for them, save the loss of liberty alone for J
a short period. "Spare- the rod and spoil
the child," says that alleged wisest of all
men, Solomon, but the growing fashion of
the day is to spare the rod altogether on the
ground that using it does vastly more harm
than good. To the great comfort of the
"miserable sinners" of the world, the doc
trine of the eternal punishment is also
going out of style, and a great demand is
being made for such revision of creeds and
catechism as will blot out the horrors of
eternal punishment for the great majority
of mankind, and break up a monopoly of
heaven by the few "elect."
But there was no Elizabeth Fry In the
days of George JJJL to visit the prisons and
endeavor to mitigate their horrors. No one
then thought ot preaching that punish
ment did not subserve to the security of tho
people, did not abate from the propensity
to. coil, nor deter from crime, and did not
tend to the reformation of ony one, bnt
rather increased deceit, hypocrisy, hardness
of heart, hatred and revenge.
ENFORCING OLD TAEIFF LAWS,
In those days when a tariff was the fashion
in England, instead of free trade as at
present, the importation of silks, velvets
and other goods from Franco was especially
prohibited. One lady, as related, was ar
rested and held for trial at the Guildhall oa
the supposition that a handkerchief seized
upon her person was French cambric. She
was convicted of the heinous offense of
possessing this little article of French man
ufacture by clear proof and sentenced to
pay a fine of 200 a pretty dear piece of
finery, besides the costs and the disgrace of
a puuuo tnai.
Benjamin Franklin was In London In this
year of 1766 on Colonial business. His
idea s as to electricity and lightning were
hooted at by the Koyal Society at first, but
after much discussion, and being indorsed
by the famous Buffon, of France, thev were
adopted as great truths. The society finally
made more than amends for its neglect and
contempt. In token of appreciation of his
services to science he was elected a member
of the august body and awarded a gold
medal. During his stay honors fell upon
him thick and last. He received the degree
of Doctor of Laws from the universities of
Oxford and Edinburgh.
In the "Chronicles" of this year is re
corded, perhaps, the first experiment of ap
plying electricity as a curative. The case
was that of a woman who had lost her
speech by convulsions. JBy the application
the fits were cured and her voice restored.
Mr. Franklin, of Philadelphia, was present,
said the record, and was vastly pleased, and
no less surprised at the result.
CHEATING- HIS GBEDITOBS.
One of the oddities of English law and a
way to get around it is illustrated by a case
recorded of a bride appearing to be married
in a church at Whitehaven. As the story
goes, when she had advanced a little way
into the church, the bridemaid began to un
dress her, until finally arrayed and adorned
in only one under garment she went to the
altar and was married to the man of her
choice by the reverend clergyman. This
queer wedding is explained on tho ground
that owing to an embarrassment in the hus
band's financial affairs, it was deemed ad
visable to do this in order that it should ap
pear that with her he received no other
marriage portion than the garment Bhe
stood up in before the altar. By the old
imgiisn law every tmng tne Dnae owned
houses, or lands, or money, or jewels, or
clothes, became the sole property of the hus
band as soon as the words were said that made
them husband and wife. Hence this plan
was devised to cheat any creditors who had
any hope of securing payment by levying
on the apparel of the bride. She must
have been very anxious to get married when
she would thus demean herself to marry a
rascal, and enter into such a scheme to cheat
his creditors by securing her wardrobe to
her husband.
That some men were the same in 1766 as
in the days of Judas Iscariot is shown in
these "Chronicles" by the story of a man
who, while having plenty of money, yet re
fused to furnish alittle wine for his wife,
who was very ilL After she died, he was
so overcome with remorse, that he went out
and hanged himself Another note is that
a Mr. Pernel, who had been married to a
young lady in the morning, and having
some words with her before nichu
he straightway went to his home
ana nangea
tanged himself. Lord Byron
a later day distinguished himself by
gat and abusing 8his bride on their
who at a later
swearing at and abusing:
way home from the church 'where thev had
just been married, was not made of such
sensitive stuff, but lived to make his wife a
most unhappy woman. Instead of hanging
himself, he seemed to find pleasure in. dis
gracing himself and family.
A BEAUTIFUL ACTBESS.
In this year of 1766 is recorded the death
of the celebrated actress, Mrs. Susanna
Maria Cilfter, whose talent for tho stage
was so remarkable that she was, notwith
standing her immoral character, given the
honor of "burial in Westminster Abbey.
She was not surpassed, it is said, by any
one upon the stage. Her genius was uni
versally acknowledged. Her voice in sing
ing, her powers of personation, her beauty
and grace were the theme of all tongues. She
was not troubled with stoutness, like Fanny
Davenport or Lillian Bussell, but, says her
biographer, though in her last years she did
not possess the bloom of beauty, and she
lacked the plumpness essential to youth and
loveliness, she yet showed such Symmetry
of form, such power of impression that it
was impossible not to believe her in the
zenith of her charms.
The most interesting part of this old vol
ume is a memoir of Madame de Pompadour,
written by herself. This wonderful woman,
who so long ruled France, has been the sub
ject of both high praise and extravagant
abuse. Having the weak and lazy Louis
XV tied to her apron strings, so to speak.
adviser for many years, 'she showed herself
possessed of most 'remarkable talent, of
power to manage men, of ability to rule or
ruin kingdoms, of mind comprehensive
enough to understand and shape politics,
and patriotism enough to devote herself to
the best interests of her country. Madame
de Pompadour was ambitious. She loved
power. Her moral principles were weak.
Her desire to stand first in the King's af
fections was not prompted by love so much
as by ambition.
jioealut of 'the couet.
Judged by the standard of the nineteenth
century morality, she was a bold bad woman
to be held in dishonor and covered with
contempt But in the France of the "re
ligious Louis IV" it was not the fashion for
husbands and wives among the nobility to
love each other. It was very bad form for
them to appear together in public like com
mon people. A man with any pretensions
to blue blood and style did not dream of
dancing attendance upon his wife. She
found lovers more to her liking in other
men, and he, on his part, bestowed his af
fections and attentions upon women he
found more attractive. When a married
couple so far forgot what was due to society
as to appear together' in public, they fur
nished great stock for .laughter, sneers and
ridicule in the salons. To be in love with
each other gave point to wit and edge to
cynicism.
The court led the fashion. Married usu
ally for purposes of politics, kings found
consolation in alliances not made sacred by
marriage vows. To be the King's favorite
was a position most ardently desired by
some of the proudest dames' of the court of
Louis XV. The great antagonism shown to
Madame de Pompadour, who, by her beauty,
wit and cleverness, secured the affection
and allegiance of Louis, was not from any
virtuous scruples on the part of the nobility,
but was simply owing to the fact that she
was not of noble birth. That the distinc
tion of being the King's mistress, should be
bestowed upon a daughter of the"ieonle ex-
cited the rage and wrath of the haughty
grana aames ot tne court circle, nat sue
soon showed herself to be possessed of such
tact and intelligence as to make it clear to
most people that she wielded the scepter of
France and that to insure court favors and
secure high places her friendship was to be
sought and her good offices secured. The
Queen objected to her being (made a dame
.f 4k. . ! .... 41. ...... f 1. 1. 1ik1i
but Louis bestowed upon her the title and
estates of a duchess.
HEB DESCRIPTION OF THE KTNCk
In her memoirs she describes the King as
"humane, mild; affable, compassionate, just,
desirous of doing good, and the declared
enemy of all that does not bear the char
acter of honor and probity." But she savs
little of his weakness, his melancholy dis
position, his incapacity as a ruler. He had
a taste for huntingj for amateur cookery and
working tapestry in cross stitch, but none
for affairs of state. These he left to Madame
de Pompadour. She filled the chief posi
tions in the army and appointed the highest
officers in the State. In making these ap
pointments she aimed chiefly at capacity
and fitness, -and did not base these, as did
Madame de Maintenon, mainly on a regular
attendance at church and the saying of many
prayers. But she records of the nobility of
France
'Thejr spend their lives In Indolence and
dissipation. Politics is as much unknown
to them as finance and economy. Those
who have ambition enougji to push them
selves into the ministry have no other merit
than that of intrigue and caballing. In vain
have I sought for Colberts or Louvolses.
The age of able ministers in Francois over.
The branches of the administration must be
intrusted to those who are only versed in
the science of plundering the State since
there are no other."
GOOD THETOS SHE DID.
Iiordswas too weak in mind and too lazy
to apply himself to or take any Interest in
tne auairs ot government, save as related to
him in an interesting and piquant style by
Madame de Pompadour. In addition to en
tertaining him and preserving him from
ennui, she presided at the Cabinet meetings
of the Ministers, and received the foreign
Ambassadors and gave ear to the complaints
of the people. She was the patron of science
and philosophy. She gave encouragement
to all improvements and developed the man
ufactures which give prestige to her name
to-day notably the porcelains of Sevres
designs for which she modeled and painted
herself. She established hospitals and
schools, and had ever a warm side for men
of letters, of science and of art.
In the fragment of her "Memoirs em
balmed in this Annual Register Madame de
Pompadour does not dwell upon her servi
ces to the State, but defends herself from
the accusations of being the 'author of the
misfortunes of France during her hold of,
power. The French nobility, she writes
had no genius for war. There was no mili
tary school until she established one and
they became Colonels and Generals . before
they knew how to be soldiers. "I never,"
she says, "placed a Minister, or gave a com
mand in the armies to any person without a
certain conviction of his talents and
merits."
That she had poor material to select from
was the weakness of France. Although the
Solic law prohibited women from occupy
ing the throne of France the history of that
country shows they can do it. law or no law.
when they make up their minds to rule and
have requisite ability, as hod Madame de
Pompadour.
THE BO ADS OF ENGLAND.
"When wo read in these "Chronicles' that
the King of England at almost every ses
sion of Parliament was signing bills for the
improvement of tho roods, it is not surpris
ing that the highways of the United King
dom are remarkable for their excellence and
durability. It would have been vastly to
the interest of this country if the fore
fathers had given a little of the same at
tention to the improvement of the roa Is in
America that was manifested by George TTT.
and his successor. Pittsburg, as a town of
four squares, was laid out two years before
this Annual Begister of 1766 was published,
and a few log houses were erected, but with
all Its growth and improvements, with all
its boasted advances in trade and com
merce, the roads around about it are as
deep with mud in the winter as when Brad
dock with his army was defeated and when
Washington described it as "a town of 29
loghouses."
The last pages of the Begister are de
voted to an account of the books published'
in that year, which list forms a striking
contract to that of onr own times. Five
books constitute the list, viz," "The His
tory of Greenland," "Swift's Posthumous
Letters," "A Discourse on the Antiquities
of the Isle of Anglesey," "The Genius and
Evidences of Christianity," and "The His
torical Events of the Empire of Hindo-
?'" e?eo. "iii,-is wouia appear,
J onH JS0.,Hn?i,5 'SvT w
lcar of Wakefield," published I in that
stan. If these were all, as would appear,
year, was not mentioned, and why Hume.
Johnson, Burke, Gibbon and other famous
writers happened to be silent in that par
ticular year. Bessie Bbauble.
GOLD AND PAPER MONEY.
T-
A EemarkaDlo Statement from a Cashier
About tho "Weight of Each.
Hot long ago, says a bank cashier in the
St. Louis Olobe-Democrat, I was overstocked
with gold and had to cash a rather large
check with it, much to the holder's chagrin.
While he was grumbling about the weight,
he said he would rather have theamount in 51
bills, because they wouldn't weigh one-tenth
wliat the same amount in ?20 gold pieces
would. I good-humoredly challenged his
assertion, whereupon fhe retorted that the
gold would weigh 20 rather than 10 times
as much as the paper.
Later on I was curious to ascertain
whether it would really take anything like
400 or even 200 greenbacks to outweigh a
f20 gold piece, and I was suprised to find
that 50 "ones" bumped the scale hard
ajainst gold coin worth just 20 of them.
This story will, I think, be received with
incredulity by anyone you repeat it to. but
if you ever happen to have a roll with SO
notes in it in one pocket, and a $20 gold
piece in the other, you will admit its truth.
There is an immense difference in the
specifio gravity ot gold coins and their
equivalent in SI bills, but the difference in
J weight is comaiaUvelr trifling.
WOMEN AND TTPPM.
The Ebony fellows With Itching
Palms Bo Not Like the Sex.
TJMBEELLA HABITS UT AMEEICA.
Entertainments .in Paris for the Benefltjsf
the Young Mothers.
ODDS USD ENDS FOB FAffi EEADEBS
I W BlTTinr TOE TUB DISPATCB.l
"My berth in a sleeping car going East
from Chicago recently,J' says a woman,
"chanced to be the end one near the porter's
nook. In the night while we stopped at a
station I heard the porter of our car chat
ting with his confrere of the next, who had
come in, probably, for the gossip. 'How's
your coach to-night, pretty fall?' asked the
visiting darkey. Tes, it's full enough such
as they are,' replied our guardian; 'they're
most all wimmin, though,' he went on in a
tone of withering contempt, 'And I don t
like a car load df wimmin.'
" That's so,' assented his companion,
they all want their berths made up at the
same time, and it's "porter' here and 'porter
there, till a felloi don't know how to wait
on 'em all.' 'And you don't get anything
for it either,' continued the other one, they
don't ever want their boots blacked nor
theirselves brushed,' he finished with a sig
nificant chuckle. Not they,' cams the
prompt reply. 'Why, when I was in a
drawin' room coach Vye had wimmin ride
all day long In a common car and just be
fore they got to Hew York pay 25 cents to
come in the parlor car so as to get off from
that when their friends met them. Wimmin
is very careful of their money sometimes,'
summed up this dusky philosopher. Then
the train started and I heard no more, but I
confess," finished this woman, 'that I made
a trifling service in the morning an excuse
to give the porter $1, weakly hoping to
establish myself in bis eyes."
.A reaction has set in in favor of short
jackets, and the days of the "Louis" coat
are already numbered. The coming autumn
coat will be two inches-below the hips, ac
cording to the best authorities an announce
ment that most women will regret. The
long "Louis" coats arc handsome garments.
becoming to nearly everyone, while these
very abbreviated jackets need a trim and
natty figure to wear them with good effect.
At some of the handsome dinner parties
of the summer scarfs, even covers of Hr,
have been used, with, it would seem to
many, most questionable effect. Napery
fine as silk and with the sheen of satin, but
of the color of unsullied snow, is always
the handsomest cover to spread upon any
board. At Mrs. Astors famous dinner
parties the most exquisitely fine of damask
cloths, more or less elaborately decorated
with drawn work, are used over
pink silk. A very handsome din
ner given recently to San jFrancisco
had the table covered with a pale green
silk cloth and extending its entire length
was an oblong bed of la France roses set in
a border of maiden ferns. Hanging from
the chandelier was a large ball of pink
china asters, while the sideboards and man
tel were banked with pink sweet peas and
lilies. At another dinner a pink silk cloth
was used with white flowers, smilax and
ferns.
Bead trimming not glass or jet, gOtor
silver, but wooden bead trimming is an
nounced for smart fall towns. A feature of
this is the substitution for the popular sash,
belt or corselet, of a single twist of tbe
beads about the waist, with long strings of
it tied loosely, rosary fashion at one side.
An imported dress of gray had collar and
rosary of gray and red beads, and slender
scroll pattern on a panel of the skirt was
worked out with them. A small, olose
fitting capote or bonnet was shown to wear
with the dress, made of'the beads and tiny
gray ostrich tips.
It Is well known that sea water-has a most
beneficial effect upon the appearance of
horses, imparting a satin gloss to the coat,
a brightness to the eye and a generally re
freshed appearance. It is no unusual thing
at Cape May and various other seaside re
sorts to see 'ostlers giving the animals in
their charge their sea plunge as regularly
as the most systematic bather on the beach
takes his. Some Hew Yorkers summering
in Europe send their stables to the seashore
for a fortnight simply for the purpose of
giving their thoroughbreds this course of
tomo treatment..
Sea air, if not sea water, would appear to
have a similar beautifying effect upon lawns,
for nowhere does the grass seem to show
suoh brilliant and dazzling green as In the
stretches of turf around sea side villas. Yet
salt in quantities will utterly destroy grass.
It must be the air and slightly saline spray
mingled with the undiluted sunshine which
works the excellent result. At some of the
beautnul JM ewport nomes tnis summer a
very gay effect has been produced by ob
long beds of low growing, bright colored
flowers which look like an Eastern rug
thrown across the turf. They are sown in a
regular pattern of broken conventional
lines, very much resembling the Daghestan
Bokhara product, and azainst the back
ground of the neutral tinted ocean stand
out in the vivid green most pleasingly.
A "beefsteak stew" can be made the
chief dish of a simple dinner if desired, and
is exceedingly hearty and palatable. Select
a juicy top sirloin and cut it in neat pieces
three or four inches square, sprinkling each
with salt and pepper. Pat some good drip
pings in the frying pan, and when hot, slice
into it Or small onion and a couple of
tomatoes; fry them a minute or two, then
lay in the steak and fry all together for
about five minutes; remove the steak, onion
and tomatoes, strain and skim the fat off the
drippings, add a little boilingwater, pepper
and salt to taste and a little w oroestershire
sauce, put the steak with onion and tomato
1MCtf
DELICIOUS
flavoring
ARE
Unequaled in
Unequaled in Strength.
Unequaled in. Economy.
Unequaled in Havor.
PRICE FLAVORING EXTRACT CO
back Into the pan, pour tho gTary orer It
and simmer for half an hour.
Fresh pears sliced and sprinkled lightly
with powdered sugar are a delicious break
fast cQsh, served with whipped cream.
The man who carries his umbrella under
his arm in that wi.y," said a woman, the
other day, dodging one protruding from
under the arm of a person in front of her as
she climbed the stairs to an elevated station,
"ought to take a tour abroad. He would
get short shrift in London or Paris or in al
most any of the Continental cities. Tho
natives don't do it, and the American, when
he attempts it over there, is treated to an ob
ject lesson that once or twice repeated cures
him. I once saw an angry Englishman, after
being prodded by an umbrella which was be
ing carried like a double-acting battering
ram, seize the stick, wrench it from its
place, and, presenting it in the proper posi
tion to its surprised owner, give him with
his property an indignant and emphatic
opinion upon his method."
Bibbons as bretelles and sashes have been
much used this season. A pretty muslin
gown had a novel belt arrangement Four
inch ribbon was passed around the waist
inree times, tne top and bottom rows
pointed to fit the figure with girdle effect,
the ends being tied in a fiat bow at the left
side and pinned down with fancy pins.
A novelty In art materials for this tutaa
are the beautiful" dyed linens which are
being shown at the art shops. In lieu of
the tones of gray and fawn with which we
arefamilar, rich hnes rivaling the "blue
and purple and scarlet" of the sacred hang
ingSa of the old Hebrews are seen. The
fabric itself in its new guise is sufficiently
heavy to take good folds as it hangs and is
likely to contest with art serge for the place
ot favorite.
Mrs. Van Benssaeler Cruger (Julien Gor
don), the brilliant author of the "400,"
shows in her bearing and manner the
haughty dignity with which she clothes her
grandes dames in print. She is very punc
tilious and ceremonious in the arrange
ments of her household and in her attitude
toward society. Her servants are models
of respectful docility, her men are kept al
ways in full livery, and an air of almost
State formality is preserved in the details
of the establishment. Mrs. Cruger enter
tains a great deal and has a liking for send
ing out invitations weeks in advance.
Cards for a handsome dinnerwhich she gave
in Easter week last spring were fluttering
among the favored before Ash Wednesday.
It may be added that Mrs. Cruger is a very
successful dresser, her toilets being
striking and original, always stopping
short of the bizarre, however. She herself
would never indulge in thn vagary of a
black velvet tea gown on a July morning, as
she permits one of her heroines.
, This season has been a peculiarly trying
one to the summer girl as it has been so
pronouncedly a white onor The fashion for
wearing white has amounted to a rage, and
at the seashore and in the mountains, in
villas, boarding houses and hotels, white
gowns have prevailed, with white parasols,
shoes and gloves as accessories. Against
these spotless toilets black has been some
what used in embroidery, alternating with
gold and silver, but for the most part un.-e-eved
white Is the rule a fad which Is
both expensive and to many girls very un
becoming. In a search for novelty, some entertain
ments have been given recently in Paris
called "balls for young mothers." The in
vitations include only such as have aright
to this title, with, of course, attendant
cavaliers, and the cotillon favors are chil
dren's toys. The next day the young
matron pays her visit of reconnaissance, ac
companied by her child.
Mabqabet H. "Welch.
AEBIAL HAVIQATIOS SOLVED.
A'lttwTork Broker TJses Pigeons ulSa
Been Very Successful.
Z have solved the problem of aerial navi
gation, says Broker Alfred Cordova, of
Hew York, In the Si. Louis Globe-Zhmocrat.
I use pigeons to obtain my motive powtr,
and call my line the Cordova Aerial Mes
senger Company. I do not do any pauen
fer traffic as yet, and probably never will.
use my pigeons, which are very well
trained, to carry messages between my
office in Wall street and stock farm at
Cheetolah, H. J. I can stay at home if I
want, and receive reliable reports direct
from my office much sooner than the tsle-
grapn would bring tnem. 1 nave found that
the birds are jusc as reliable as any ether
means of communication, and advices in
tended for me do not fall into the wrong
nanas.
Besides, it Is interest1!!? to stndr the
birds and time their trios to and from tha
office and the form. I have never lost y
uiru, aiiuougu bwu or mrec utb waaaereu
away and become missing for a time. Only
last week one of my carriers was taken ill
on its flight and sought refuge in a farmer's
yard some miles .from my place. The latter
discovered and returned it. The wings of
all my birds wear this stamp: "OordovaJ
Aerial Messenger Company, limited."
BHE FLU23 UP OH SPZIHta.
Qnaea Victoria Has Meohiumal AM '
Ins and Bowing to He Peopl.
St.-Loal Globe-Democrat.
For many years Queen Victoria barbael
mechanical device to assist her to rise SK be
carriage and bow in response to the cheers
of the people. A publlo procession is, for
her, a serious matter, as the cheering is al
most continuous and she is forced in tome
way to respond or lose her reputation fur
politeness. The device is under the seat of
her carriage, and consists of an arrangement
of very strong springs.
' They are held down by some contrivasvee
for the purpose until she wishes to rise,,
when she touches a key, and at oace.th
springs are released, and flying upward
force her into a half-standing position and
support her there. In this way she is re
lieved of the labor of rising 20 times every
quarter of an hour,a task which, to a woman .
of her age and weight, would be veryvarda-,,
ous. --.
Purity.
ctsl
xtra
vBHsf-"H
VrBS
w v juujsn-r- jfs-s-sai
-J i
$&& jfjMt
i
" 4 ay ' " -&K3
4 -, ;V-$ J'teuflliHi'