ABOVE A MEAT CITY.
Carpenter looks Down Upon,
Mexico Eroni tlie Great
Cathedral's Spire.
1TKESTS BOYE A STC&MP.J
Lakes Above Its level Ever-Threaten,
a Johnstown Flood.
A MIGHTY ENGKEEEEfG PEOJECTJ
Fivc-Hnndred'JIilcs of Paved-Streets-Swept,
Every Morning.
TfiircnTS'COSXOPOLITAB -CHAB1CIEBJ
tconBssroxiJEircz or TmmisrATcn J
Mexico Cmr, June IT.
HE cityof Mexico li
the nearest heaven of
the great capitals
of the world. It is
more than a mil
straight up in the air
above London, Ber
lin, Paris or "Wash
ington, a-nd it is
hemmed in by great-
mountains which kiss,
the sky with their
frosty lips some two
or three miles higher.
Here among these
mountains there Is a
little, oval-shaped valley,olout 45 mileslong,
and some SO miles wide at the center, which
contains halt a dozen great lakes, one rising
above another, and the level of nearly all
being higher than that of the spot on which
this great city stands. Mexico was built by
tie Aztecs, and they chose a swamp for aJ
foundation. Tho Spaniards, when they
rebuilt the city, stuck to the old site, and
with high ground all around, this great
Mexican metropolis stands upon a slimy
oore of black mud, so soft that two feet
below the Burfaco the water is found, and so
that piles may be driven down, going into
the earth easier and easier as they go.
deeper,
A Model of Cleanliness.
Tho crust of earth oa which the town, ia
built seems to be solid, but builders-tell me
thev dnre net attempt to make deep founda
tions, and it may be that the city is built J
over a great subterranean lace, ijonsiuc.
A Mszloan Dandy,
ing this fact h is a greater wonder than,
Venice or Amsterdam, and it is-a model in
the shape of good pavements, solid build
ings and. excessive cleanliness. There is no
town in the United States which has cleaner
streets than this great Mexican capital, and
their condition is even better than that of
the streets of "Washington at tho time of a
beginning of a new Congress, when the
street-cleaners are doing their work well in
the hope of holding on to their job.
This cleanliness of Mexico is all tho more
wonderful from tho fact that the-clty has no
evstem of sewerage or drainage. Por more
than 300 -rears the people have lived and
died and have cast their garbage and their
offal into its cesspools. Ten generations of
men and women have poured the constant
filth of their daily lite and an enormous
business into its eo"il and all the refuse and
waste of 600.000 people are sinking into
it to-day. It is, indeed, a wonder that this
city is not a mighty
Hospital of Dead anil Dying.
According to the ordinary rules of munic
ipal health it whole population ought to die
off every year, and one would think that the
typhoid fever and diphtheria would leave
the rest of tha world for Mexico. Tho sun
end the air, however,fight them, and for the 1
bettor classes Jlcxico is a city oi iuo rather
than one oi death. The lifo insurance com
panies of Nw Xork which have agencies
here find that the death rate is very low
among the insurable people, and the high
death rate of Mexico City comes from the
poor Indians, who sleep on the ground 'satu
rated with this foulest debris of ages, with
fclimy water two feet below tbcm and with
nothing between them and the earth except
the cotton clothes and the red blanket which
lorm their oostumes by day and by night
These die more rapidly than is generally
known. The better classes sleep on the sec-j
ond floors and their health is generally good.
The question of the drainage of Mexico,
has been discussed for generations, and it is
one of the great problems of to-day. This. -
little valley has no outlet, and the city is in
its lowest part. Lake Tezcoco, which at this
time is only two feet lower than the level of
the city, has an area of 67 square miles, and
it rises during the wet 6easoa. Several
times it
Has Ocrlloa tlie City,
and within only a few years back I am told
the whole town was covered with three feet
of water. One inundation lasted for five
years, and the waters were finally oarricd off
by an earthquake, siniaug through the exact
caused by it. The other lakes are higher
than Tezcoco, and one of them is 29 leet
abovo the city. A JohuBtown flood here
would do an immonso deal mora damage
than it did in Pennsylvania, and in cominir
into the city I rode by a great cat which a
Spanish engineer inaae nearly .sou years ago
with the aim of u rami Eg the lakes and the
"alley and carrying the water off into the
Gull "of Mexico. A change of government
occurred while the work was in operation,
and it was finally-abandoned.
The present Government has given-a con
tract for another immense canal to drain
these lakes, and hundreds of men are now
s,t work on them under American engineers.
A big cut is being made through the mount
aina and within two or three years at the
farthest Mexico City will be out of danger
uud a vast amount of land now covered
with water will be reclaimed. Plans for
the sewering of the city arc now under con
ideration, and this canal will, I under-
iud, be 18 or 20 feet below the present
velof the town.
Tho -Whole City May Sink.
A very mportant question will bo-as to-
whether tha city will not sink, when the
vast amount l water which is found under
it at every point is removed, end whether
such a drainAge would not be more disas
trous than a jjreat earthquake. The ex
pense of this canal, so one of the engineers
tells mc, ill be 5,000,000 or$G,000,000, and
its construction is one of the big engineer
ing projects of the world to-day. This ex
pense, now ever, is a bagatelle in comparison
of the loss by a single inundation. Dur
ing the great flood of 1640 it is estimated
that 540,000,000 of property was destroyed
and the Mexico of that time was not more 1
than one-htth tho size in wealth or in popu-lation-of
thoMexico of to-day. Intbe-daysof
f j
v.
wiinr.iiiin lc iiiw:tt-ijurrounaeu.-incvCnyi
fc--3 Q
Since then they have steadily weeded, but
the floods may yet come. It is only by
dikes and by tbls Spanish oat that the city
has been saved several times in the past.
From the above, it might be thought that
Mexico was a sort of a second Botterdam.
It is nothing of the kind. Its COO miles of
streets are as ury as a Done, ana tne square
houses which wall the sidewalks with their
smooth fronts of plaster fairly glare with
thirst-under the bright sun of the south
land. The town has its waterworks. The
roads are not watered throughout thexhv as
are the thoroughfares of an . A merioan-city,.
but they
Are Swept Every Morning
By persons under the charge of policemen,
and every bit of dirt is picked up from the
principal streets till they are as clean as a
Japanese parlor. These streets of Mexico
are well paved and improvements are going
on steadily. Not long ago some of the
streets were laid with Trinidad asphalt, and
this pavement is far better fitted for Mexico
than Washington. Others of the streets are
paved with Nicholson blocks and a great
many have the old cobble-stones of years
ago. The streets are .everywhere wide, and
-on the whole Mexico-is & beautiful capital.
Takea stand wia me on the spire r tne
great cathedral which iaces the plaza in the
center of Mexico. "We have pulled the
rope at the little side door and have paid
our fee to tho dark-haired, big-eyed, oream
faced maiden in Mexican garments who
guards the entrance, and have worn our
legs sore in climbing hundreds of steps,
and we sit on a ledge above the 40 great
bells which 'thunder out the hours a wo
look. "We are 200 feet above the ground
land more than 7,500 ieet above tho-eea,
Under our feet is the spot on which
The Aztecs Sacrificed Their Victim,
And upon the great altar which in thi days
of Montezuma lay only CO feet below wherj
we were sitting, 60,000 slaves were sacri
ficed in one year. In that lone, low build
ing there in front of us you may see the
wonderfully carved stone upon which tho
victims lay when the sharp obsidian knife
was plunged into their vitals, and there is
the great stone pot which was used to catch
their blood as it flowed down the trench
from tie altos. It was on that altar that
Montezuma stood with Cortes when ho took
him up hero to show him his fair city, and
tho Mexico of the Aztecs three hundred odd
-pears ago. covered Terr much the
same
aground as does the Mexico of to-daji
w flat a ueautuui site lor a cny
ill! J? JJI jfjmi ""' JL v. 7k
JKSkVM 7i
&Ms5Pi
KSS
d
"
JL. JTrtrsFtoiwr Girl.
Mountains on every side of you rise rntxwrtry in a blanket as red as the opal which
the skies making a natural series of fortifi
cations. A. great plain or me ncnest green
stretching out on ail Bides from ths -vast net
work of buildings until it is lost in the
hazy blue of the mountain side. Silvery
lakes sparkle liko shields of diamonds off in
the distance. Ths great volcanoes of Pono-
loatapeu ana .ixtaccimmu wok uowa upou
von from their cans of neroetual snow.
rbanals in silvery streams border tho
ontslarts-of the city, and away over there at
its edge the vast clump ox green trees
-which in hundreds of acres of forests sur
round what was onca tha summer home of
.ihe great Monteaumaln. which is now tho
rammer residence of President Diaz, the
-Oastle ozVChepultepec, tha White-Houso-of.
.aienoo.
XJlu-o-CItj-of6patn,
Bringyour ayes nearer home ouoXaka &J
rook at the city below. It is as big as St,
Iiouis, and Minneapolis and St Paul could
be lost in its borders. Its form is that of
one of the great citev of Europe, and like
the cities of Spain, its streets cross one
another at right angles, and tha center of
the networc ot squares la tat plaza tuiea
with ereen trees which lis t our feet
"There arc a number of tics spots of greea
squares through too network na were as
the right is the long strip of forest where
fashionable Mexico walks fbr-on hour or so
on Sunday and whore there is nssis every
afternoon the rear round.
Further on is the wide avenue- kaown-as J
the Paseo, where you rosy see any after
noon as gay a set of turnouts as. yoa will
find in Hyde park or the Bois do Boulogne,
and all around and below yon is the great
checkerboard of Mexico City. Suppose
yourself hanging still in a balloon abovo a
five thousand acre farm. Let this farm be
divided np into little square fields and pave
these fields with brick, and moke tho fields
fiat but at different levels, and vou hare an
idea of how Mexico looks from the-ekiev
Tho rooie of all the houses are fiat.
Kot a Chimney to He Seen.
There iB not a -chimney in the whole-cita.
jmd vou could number the furnaces and the
cooking and heating stoves on the fingers of
one hand. The Mexican capital does all of
its heating by charcoal, and a base-burner
would be as much of a wonder here as a five
legged call. If you will take your glass you
will nolo that each field is made up of
houses and that each of the houses has a
great well or holo in its center. These are
,ihe patios or courts around which every
Mexican house is built, and which in many
cases, constitutes the only garden of fhe
lamilv. Where there ore horses this is,
Bometuiies usea lor tne storing of the car
riages and you note that afi the houses
stand close up tovthe street and that the
most of them are of less than three stories.
On the tops of many of them you see
white and gay-colored patches floating to
and fro in the breeze. These are family
washings, which are usually dried onihe
roofs, and those great spires and domes
which spring up on. every side of you are
the buildings of the church, which are
fewer now than ever before, and which a.
few years ago were the richest and most im
portant buildings of the city.
Confiscation of the Churches.
The Government now owns these and not.
the priests. They are allowed to use them
only on sufferance, and when thoy were con
fiscated it is said they were worth mitllnn.
and that the Government then took from
m
tne cnurctproperty to the amount of 200,
000.000. Thisbuildin? upon wliir.1, J
his building upon which we are
standing-cost 2,000,000 to build, and its
pave - a town of 10,000 people. Bricks are
the shingles-of Mexico. They-are- fastened
' i"o BuuKieu wim enouzn nnre to
w-s?w I
Y --J? I M
V kl
& r j-
irwiWmk
iifll
L-jw yrr-
Some 'Mexican Spes. ,
THE'
down in mortar and there is as much ma
sonry on the top of every one of these
churches and houses as there is in its sides.
Take a look at this cathedral as you stand
here above it. It covers acres, and you
wander for hours ia going from one place to
another within it It had a gold mine
in its costly decorations and its .cnolr has a
balustrade or a mixture of silver, copper
which is worth more than hieweightinsolid,.j
sliver, xne woiisofthe church alone cost
2.000.000. and the treasures of the interior-
have made rich some of the families of the
Mexico of to-day. It hod-a-single
Statue of Gold Set With Diamonds,
Which was worth $i;000,000 and onwrfJL
i iuo giuui lamps wnicn ugniea 1
in the-past cost 570,000 and its workmanship
was so intricate that it cost 51,000
to clean it The altars were once set
with precious stones, and it was a second
'building like that which the Shah Jehan
and Akbar had at Delhi in India, and like
their buildings it has been plundered by
the unbeliever. After all, however it
stands only as a monument cf retributive.
Justice. Akbar plundered us people, tho
Church plundered the Indians and then the
1 Mexicans or Indians under a pure Indian
jcaucr, jrfraiueiifc oimrcz, piunaereu. it-
It was right here that Cortes despoiled
the Aztecs, and that Jong, low, two-story
building which faces the Plaza and which
looks more like a great stablo than any
thing else is the National Palace where the
Senate of Mexico is now sitting, and in
which the Treasury and the Government
offices are located. There was the palace of
Montezuma, and that site formed the resi
dence of the successors of Cortes. Back of
it is the postoffice, and further on is that
beehive of ant-like men and women, the
great market of tho City of Mexico, which
is as much a sight to-day as it was when tho
Spaniards entered it and described its won-
pders. At your feet is the market for flow
ers and dozens-of men under biir hats and
:$retty girls under no hats at all, are there
'Belling tho most beautiful of full-blown
roses tor almost nothing-an&you can -buya-
Its Cosmopolitan-Character
Come down from the cathedral and take-o
walk along the streets. The crowd which
moves with and by you is as cosmopolitan
as thai of any European capital. You are
in the Calle de San Francisco where the
foreign shops are located and near the prin.
cipal hotels. Here ore Frenchmen, English
men, Germans, Spaniards and Americans,
and mixed with them are the diverse ele
ments of the great Mexican people. A swell
carriage with great coach horses dashes by
you, its silver-mounted harness glistening
in the sunlight, and its coachman wearing
a gorgeous sombrero and his pants lined
with silver. It contains the wife and
daughter of a rich haoendado who are going
to taxe tneir aiternoon ride on the Jf aseo.
Behind them rides a rich Spaniard in Mex
ican costume, with saddle, hat and harness
as gorgeous in their gold and silver as money
oan buy, and at tho side of the street runs a
half a dozen little burros with great bales of
hay almost hiding their little bodies from
view, while in their rear is a poor Indian
driving them with a like bundle of hay fast
enenedkra to his back and held there by a
strap thataomes over -the front-of the-fore-iead.
TheTJrlgand and theuDnde.
Hereds a brigand-like peon from thecoun-'
shines out of its diamond setting on tho
necktie of 'the American dude at his side,
-and yon note that his feet are dirty with
miles of travel, as they show out through
his leather sandals. There are two ladies
in blaok oa their way to tha cathedral to
mass, and the younger one casts a sly but
modest look at you out of her shawl as they
pass, un mo otner Biae oi tne street there
is oa Indian girl, tshose wealth of black
hair streams in a frowsy way down her
shoulders, and whose plumpibrm is bent al
most double under the great load of red jars
she is oarryir r, and now through them all
comes-a squad of soldiers, dark-faced and
sullen, under the command of an officer who
looks down-as proud as Lucifer out of his
ssddle. There are water carriers and peddlers:
millionaires and paupers; the rich and the
?oot; the great and tne small all mixed up
ogether in one of the most picturesque and
the most delightful conglomerations you
will find anywhere in the world. Every
way your oye turns it meets anew sight ana
everything is strange. You glance about
you ia bewilderment and wonder where yoa
are. Yon put your hand to your head and
almost ask when the curtain trill falLund
.hide-the .great show from view.
Scenes in Wonderland.
As yon go oa you ore aocosted"byrped
hats and red blankets, who offer to sell you
opals and quecrly 'carved canes, and little
Indians in ragged clothes thrust boxes of
matches into your face and beg you to buy.
Tho newsboy is here in all his glory, and a
dark-faced old man looks out oi the stray
gray locks whioh fringe his wrinkled face
under his broad-brimmed hat and asks alms.
You give him a copper and he hobbles off
happy, and makes you-feel like a benevo
lent prince.
And so yon go-on along the streetof the
silversmiths, by jewelry stores, whose gold,
diamonds and rubies flash their multi
tudinous rays hack at the Betting sun, by
drygoods w-Ihdows, whose stocks of Paris
made goods are as gay as those of Fifth ave
nue, and on down to the great doois which
with their portals of carved stone admit you
to the big palace of the Emperor Iturbide,
which like all things imperial in this coun
try of Mexico has fallen from its high es
tate and-is now turned into an immense
,-liotel. FbastieG. Cabpenteb.
DIVniG P0B PINK PEABL.
?Tho Experts Rarely Able-to Stay Under-1
TFater-Moro Than Four Minutes.
Ihedivers in the lond-of the pink pearl
ire not-adongjlived race. Even nftermany
years of constant practice, they can only re-
onain under water from two to three minutes
s a rule, though there have been divers so
-accustomed to the work, and so suited for it,
that they could remain four minutes under
water; but these are exceptions to the gen
eral rule, and so long a submersion ial wnva
attended with considerable risk,
A stone attached to a rope carries the
diver like an arrow shot from a bow down
to his work; a simple piece of cord, sup
posedio be always in the hand of the hauler,
keens mi communication with him A a
oon as his work is done he twitches the
signal ooru, and should be drawn up with
out a moment's hesitation. This is, of
course,, a much slower matter than his de
soent The stone and the man's weight,
which act bo wonderfully in favor of his
descent, are just as much against him as he
rises, and the least negligence on the part of
the hauler is fatal. Theso men are not al
woys on tho alert, and it not infrequently
happens that either because the siirnal 11
riot given soon enough, or because the diver
has been too suddenly overtaken to give any,
or because it is not answered instantlv.
lives are. lost Paralysis or Buffocation'SU-
jiervenes.
DOESlPT-flPOuT "WATEB.
Tho-S-oontalns Pictured With the Wblte-.-Uo
"You know that a whale has got 'to
breathe same as a man, though ho can hold
his breath a mighty sight longer under
water," says an old whaler in the Boston
Herald, " They breathe through their spout
holes and the water spouts that you see in
pictures coming out of the heads of whales
are all put in by green hands. Only a gust
of warm, moist air comes out of a whale's
spout hole, which is his nostril. It comes
out with a woo-shoo, like an exhanri; utwim
pipe,, and turns white in Arctio air,Asv,
corse wun uues in a coia aay here.
Quick Wprk.
Johnstown, Pa. Bey. Solomon E. Tlnren.
of the German Baptist denomination, says:
'.and Diarrhoea Remedy on several occasions.
unce on a Doy ior onoiera morbus. It gave
relief In 20 minutes. I believe It ia a aaoA
medicine ana-snouia coin everyhome.
TOSU
' PITTSBURG DISPATCH;
IN CLOUDS OF SILVEll
JTtin Tnni-lor mi ihn finrmonav Pivfifl
puo iu""" v uu wu,nu.v j
Rides Into Ha-Ha-Bay.
!GKEETED BITHB FOREST'S ODOESl
anaFeastedt-on Bluetierries ThaMIaYenTr'j
Their:E(ual Anywhere
CHARMING- RESORT FOE SUMMER
COBBESrOHBEXaB Or-TUCDISEATCBj
Ox ,thd Saccen-Ax",' Juno 17. JThe
rvpyager up the Baguenay begins- nis-es-
pioring-atrthoflpot-where onof tho-eoniess
French colonies was planted. "At
Tadaussac-," says Parkham, "at the mouth
of the Sasnenay, under the shadowof sav
age and Inaccessible rocks, feathered with
pine firs and birch trees, were built a
cuisterorwooden hutsand' storehouses, ana
16 men were left 'to gather -the expected
-harvest-of f urs. "
"And here they would have died of
lunger in tho winter, saysKzameau, "had
they not been received into tbecabins -of the
ravages. ,
This first attempt atettlemenVnbout the
year 1602, was repeated later, and often,
before any firm establishment was made.
Yetinl617Tadanssaowas the most import
ant trading post on the St Lawrence, out
ranking Quebec and Montreal Bi thatyear
the first mass was said there in a chapel
built of branches,, "while two soldiers kept
flies off the priest with green boughs. No
flics sally out from Tadaussao to offliot the
tourist now; but this may be because the
steamer arrives thp.ra at nfpht. both crolnrto
And returning from the Baguenay. You
-must step oil ana remain through aaviigni
if you would see that summer resort whichJ
.has grown ,
Over the Old Trading-Potk
It4s like approaching a huge condensed
lump of night with a fewbeaoons dotting its
tront, a constellation the dipper, voices
come down from invisible hotels and make
cheer on the high landing. Summer cos
tumes move about there, and though you
get an impression that the resorters have to
climb ladders up the hills, they are so merry
at their clattering that it seems the most
agreeable exercise in the world.
But by sunshine Tadaussao is not .formid
able. Here the St Lawrence river is so
many miles wide that two hours' steaming
are required to cross it, and the heights ore
the beginning of that sublime cleft whioh
seems to have opened betwixt mountain
ridges to let out the Saguenay.
Swarming to Tadaussao come the-hunter,
the priest who loves to fish, the member of
parliament ana- nis lamiiy, the Canadian
and American tourist of every -vaxijty.
.Many prefSr this rugged spot to the smooth
driveSjjthe easy boating and gipsy-like vil
lage orMelicite Indians, to say nothing of
country cottages ana hotels, at uaoouna
Bay, on the opposite side of the St Law
rence. Perhaps few of all these, passers
kwho core to recall the fact that Champlaln
retreated to uaaaussao otter the starving
fort of Quebec was first taken by Kirke.
But nearly everyone will straggle into the
'old church, built in the. seventeenth cen
tury, conuuiung wmmg us veneraoio od-
i'ects-an image oftho-child"Jesus,.j)re3ented"
yLouis-XIV:
The Elver How Blade.
Soundings at the mouth of the Saguenay
Tevealthe foot that its bed is far below the
bed of the river into which it flows, St.
liawrcnce water is a limpid blue-green. The
water of the Saguenay, swelling: and billow
ing around a steamer, looks black as ink,
except when the sunlight strikes through
its salty mottles, or where it foams like
clear ale upon its own pebbles.
This mountain looked gulf is by no means
a river of islands like the St Lawrence. It
lies smooth, deep, savagely dark, glassing
heights whose shadows creep out and creep
out until they nearly cover the surface
u.xeiuior is i iiui 04 pons, xuere are no
breaks and bays and .coves for convenient
landing until that huge square side lake
called Ha-Ha Bay is reached, "V?ell might
the first explorers burst into a shouting
laugh when they found this splendid open
ing among dins. It lets you out of the
Saguenay into on entirely new northern
world.
Beside the foaming little river and oeiv
'baps this is fhe reason they called it Ha-Ha
also, ror nothing maces a man so cheerio! as
his ready dinner they see a camp of Mon
taignais Indians,just squatting around the
kettle. No gong has to be sounded for
these ravenous voyagers; and the ITrenoh
men who ventured first on this oontinent
were always so well bred that they were re
ceived without question in the best Indian
society. A chief rises to meet them and
make them free of the hotch-potch in the
kettle; the voiceless dogs snuff around their
heels; pappooses regard them with stolid
gaze. But best welcomo of all, a bronzed
maid brines a biroh bark platter heaped
with blueberries fresher than the first leaves
of spring, sweeter than honey, wilder than
deer flesh; In short, such aboriginal blue
berries as oan be found nowhera-buUiA Ha
Ha Bay.
The bills here slope down to a beach:
grass grows in the seams of their rock-aved
sides. A trout stream called Ha-Ha river
makes descent over stones from the west
And as soon as you land the woody odor of
blueberries meets you: not suoh blueberries
-is come to market, all bruised and bleeding
ineir iresnness away; dui the virgin irult,
each berry yet in its veil of mist, a huge
complete globe. I always had a contempt
for blueberxies-until I taw them at Ha-Ha
.Bay.
nuat uio .explorers saw.
Picture the earliest explorers of this-
river. They climb the granite hiH-breasts
do these explorers; we will say it is about
sunset, and the bay behind them is a vision
of rising mist and silver afterglow. In al
their lives they never tasted such freshness
in the air before. It is heaven only to
breathe there. But men are so strangely
constituted that air is no stay to their
Stomachs. They must have bread; brawn if
they can get it, and fish or wild fowl where
ever that is to be-had. These explorers ore-
verhungrv; too hungry to wait for fish orJ
game.
The-ElueberrieS -Still Popular,
A couple of centuries bavepassed-sinca.
that occasion, yet newcomers continue to
seek this heavenly spot and the native hand
cuiiuuues iu uii tueui up witu Diueoernes.
Though a man of average appetite usually
prevents one or two orates being shipped
during his stay, the steamers are loaded
with coffin-shaped boxes all season. A New
York club is said to have five or six lakes
among the hills. Traces of it may be found
in excellent coffee, imported by a member
of the club. The Canadian habitant knows
-nothing about coffee. His beverage is tea,
made almost strong enough to float him on
snowshoes.
Yoiture drivers whisk around St Al
phonse wharf, ready to stow you into their
covered buckboards for a spin among the
heights or a gallop to St Alexis, a mile or
distant at the other corner of the bay.
In Canadian cities the cabmen call their
carriages wagons. But when you penetrate
the wilderness on any kind of wheeled
vehicle it is sure to be a voiture. St Alexis
would be named Lumberville with us. See
what it is to be brought up by the pictur-,
esaue: Boman Church the names of saints
.are scattered over a whole country, remind
ing the workman at his roughest labor of
good men and women who made life sub-
ume,
Tho Smell of New Iraxnber.
The sound of tho sawmill is heard at St
Alexis, and your chariot winds in and out
among blocks of piled boards. You begin
to realize here that the Saguenay is a lum
ber highway, audit is realized more abun
dantly as the Bteamer carries you on tho
Chicoutimi. Tugs meet you, towing great
fleets of logs inclosed in a boom. Logs aro
the aristocrats of the wilderness. To see
them bowing and rolling on the swells of
the Saguenay, their rinds indifferent to its
salty bite. Is to be deeply impressed with
i'the original dignity of trees. I do-not-6eo.
SUNDAY, JTTNE 21,
how men oan live among them and in the
odor of fresh-6awcd lumber, without grow
ing into stalwart and wholesome manhood.
Sawdust, likn tnwr.tr lino, nt a mane, or
l'.k 'ong, tremulous strokes of a brsuh
dipped in umber, streaks the river for miles,
and -lightens its smoke-pearl surface. Nearly
an .to uuuiianis on tne upper aaguenuy uo
lumbermen, Trees rise up " the mountain
slopes until they stand like ranks of
needles, so diminished by distance, so
straight and distinct The white birch
that bride of a Canadian forest or first
communicant is a better name, for slim and
white and veiled in shimmering leaves she
shows herself in nmcfstinnl la more beau-
rtiful than you ever find her elsewhere.
Paradise of the Hunters.
Steamers carry tourists no farther-thaa
-Chicoutimi; but here the hunter's outing
really beirins. Vrnin" -RniHqii fellows rush
on board, evidently sent out by those mari-H
nine uroynices which iurnlsh the cream ot
English Cannrtn Thnv ata in hunting
dresses and leggins, brown and exuberantly'
woii, joaued with tactile and hunting traps,
rolls of birch bark,, and bags of unknown
treasures.
"I say," says the biggest and handsomest
one of them, following the steward with
some game in his hands, "have this dressed
for my supper, will you? I want It well
done, you know. I want it hung direotly."
Chicoutimi is a lumber town like St
Alexis; but the rawest of new Canadian
towns has at once a mellow old beauty de
rived from the invariable Norman pattern
of the houses. Turn n Tknten loose in the
wilderness, and he builds himself at once as-
uig uuu una a arygooas DOX as ne can rear.
It is a hideous blemish on the landscape
and grows worse with age. But turn a
Canadian loose in the same wilderness, and
he adds to it the quaint picture of a stone
based cottage with dormer windows, up
ourved eaves, vast wide chimneys, perhaps
a gallery, and at any rate some outdoor
place where he can sit and smoke bis pips
of summer evenings. The houie-is compact
and it is airy within. Its stairways ascend
without enclosure. The windows swing on
hinges and may be flung wide-iopen, yet
hen closed are tight as a wall
The OvenXs Out-oMoors.
No cheap, mean carpets degrade the-cleao.
Ixjm -- ., Jli ,, " ,
f-iiuuro. jm euner is neat auowea unseason
ably to enter this house, whioh may be built
of wood or stone or of the oommon plaster"
finish called rough east Madeline has
her oven built against an outside wall, or
standing detached a little distance from her
door. It stands on supports of masonry or
posts, its round top protected by a shed.
An iron door closes it, and Madeline's rake
and paddle lie nearby.
There is always this difference between
-ourselves and this JTrench Canadian whom I
envy with perfect envy. Els mere presence
seems to oreatne ou "J. nave arrma.
"Why should I hurry and fret myself about
things? My house was planned for me be
fore a Norman came to this country audit
suits me like my skin. I have my strip of
land, my wife and25 children; Pother JBran
ois looks after myeoul; I make the good.
pilgrimage to bte. Anne's sunns every
summer;.! -am "happy. In-short, X have-arrived."
The Soman church has astoneoathcdraU
at Chicoutimi, besides other solid structures,,
A Canadian author tells of going on a long
hunt into the backwoods, and coming out or
a shaggy forest upon a clearing, where a-
massive cnurcn imea its cross to tnem.
You cannot doubt his experience. No
wilderness is too remote- for substantial
Catholic-masonry.
Where Stench an(T6otohJQloodj Meet
The Saguenay may be called the greot-
Teservuirm wmcuxrenon onaccorca Diooas
meet and mingle. In Nova Scotia the Macs
swarm as thicklyas motes of dust You ar
made to defer to Scotch ideas thero-as rigor
ously as you turn to the left in driving. On
the other hand, the province of Quebea
almost to the west shore of the Saguenay, is
solidly Srench. The river marries these
races; the French stock saving its language
as it always does, for that is the. prevailing
tongue along the Baguenay. It is very
queer to find Jean Bati Mao Tavlsh and
Archibald Filote, .Marie McElfresh and
Georgine Mackenzie gabbling Krench to-
'gether in apparent ignorance of any such
ancient vernacular as tne uaeiio.
In Chicoutimi you wander down terraces
end across a valley, past shops where little
yellow spinning-wheels are set out for sale,
and see a cascade coming from tile hills.
Voiture drivers with their board Vehicles
spin about ready to carry you to the falls.
Chicoutimi is built on the true Canadian
plan for a, village; a single street following
the winding 01 tho river, beginning with
the church and ending with the mills.
The Saguenay is a world of mists, and
steamer navigation there depends oa tho
rising or lowering of fog. Sometimes
with- its lights hung around tt, a boat lies
still a whole night, lost from the earth in
oloudland; in weird breathing damp,
through which sound comes as if ascending,
from some lower world.
Fanciful forms of'tho-Mlrts.
I have seen fogs in many places, but-neror
elsewhere such silver mist as rolls upward
from the Saguenay, in angel shapes, in vast
temple pillars ana ourtains, in steamers
across mountain fronts. If there were such
a thing as spirit dust, what could wo call
the Saguenay mist but fanlastio essence of
departed Indian? It writhes over the
white man's fireship with such contempt of
the white man's haste. It is always lurk
ing ready to encompass him and no war
whoop is more chilling than its silent
breath after midnight
The Saguenay has become a highway of
tourists, wno come ana go Dneuy; ror how
few of them care anything about the people
of those remo'te settlements. Bafts of logs
float down. Steamers bring the world and
take it away again three times a week until
tho Beasou oloses. Then winter shuts up
that primitive land to its own resources;
such resources of ice, snow and mountain
air as-we-never have south of the St Law
rence.
I am free to-confess that Zloyo ITronch
habitants. Their race, their history, their
picturesque present, their eternal satisfac
tion and completeness, compel my heart
"Will they ever be infused with American
-push and restlessness? 'Will they come
under the United States Government and
learn to add tho Fourth of July to St
John's Day? "When we have them let us
.never mention the word enterprise on Cana
dian ground. It is such a blessing-to have
a race of restful people near at hand, among
whom we can sometimes plunge to cooLthe,
'leverot progress.
Marx tta-rtwtlt.t. Cathee-wdod.
MAP OF BOME IN HABBiE.
More -Pragmenta-of a -Slab That Is Invalua
ble to Archaeologists.
Kerr York Sun.
It was known several centuries ago that
on-the facade of one of the municipal build
ings ereoted by the Emperor Augustus of
Home was affixed a great marble slab, on
which, the map of Home with all its streets,
temples, public buildings and gardens were
traced in deeply indented lines. A large
part of this map was dug up during excava
tions made on the site of the forum of
Augustus many years ago, and 25 more
fragments of this marble plan of Borne have
just been found in the excavations for the
works of the " Tiber embankment on the
other side of Borne and across the river.
The story how theso fragments got so far
away from the ruins to which they belonged
is a curious one.
In the sixteenth century, during tho
reign of Pope Paul HL. excavations were
commenced near the site of the wall on
which the plan was known to have been
affixed, and a good many fragments of the
marble plaque were found, of which those
considered the most important were given
to the municipal authonties,and the smaller
bits (then deemed worthless, but beyond
price to the skilled and patient archxcolo-
fistsof to-day) were cast into a heap of
uilding materials, comprising, doubtless,
many other precious fragments of marble,
and were eventually built into the walls of
the old Alfieri Palace, part of which has
been uncovered in making the foundations
for the Tiber embankment These frag
ments were found R-ven meters below tho
actual level of tho Boman streets, or rather
1 . - . -
.more tnan ziixeet,
189L
A FARM FOR BEATERS.
;BIg Money Promised by a Novel In
dustry Down in Georgia.
A SUBSTITUTE FOR SEAL FUR
To Be Obtained By Cultivating the Curious
Little Builders.
EFFECT OP CLOSING THE -BERETO-BEIT-
tCOBBXSrOSDfKCa Or-mB-DISPATCffiJ
Bas'com, Ga., June 17.
ESTEOS.DAY while:
roaming through this
picturesque portion of
Georgia I had the felic
ity of making the ac
quaintance of on old -fisherman
who has searched
the streams -of the State
for 40 years. He sailed
under the unique cogno
men of'"MuoVCaf"Win-
iamo, but was a good fel
low notwithstanding.
During'tho conversation
he told me of a. beaver
farnvbelongingto Dick Kilgoreand kindly
accepted my invitation to visit-it
"Dick's going to make a-pile of money
this year," he observed, "on account of this
country and England getting together and
agreeing to a closed season in Bering Sea.
Yoa seethere will not beony seal skins for
market next season, and beaver skins,
which make a splendid substitute, will be
largely used and will bring about SHra skin
in New York. Dick hasibout.200 beajvers,
young and old, but there are not more than
onr. hn killftfl for their skins this year.
j It's a new industry, oa experiment with
him, and he don't want to kill any-eacepfc
she-surplus moies tor tne present.
A View of the Farm.
A drive- often miles-through the -swamp.
along Briar creek and the .KUgoreipJaee, or
Beaver Dam Hollow, was reached.
"Now here's the farm,'' said "Williams,
pointingto the creek across whioh every
few yards were rough-dams and abovo them,
in he almost still water, were mounds of
earth, rooks and sticks coming oatafew
feet above- tho-eurfaoe of the water.
"xouhnow beavers aoarv-ehowthem-
selves much In the day. They do their
work at night Dick owes about 1,000 aores
running up and down the creek. Ho has
the land posted and keeps everybody off,
but it is not fenced. Fences would not
keep ths beavers in, but there is no danger
of them going off, for this is a natural home
for them, and every "beaver hers knows old
Diok, He feeds them every night, andthey
come when he calls jnst like hogs.""
Kilgore has been atrarmer down hero, for
years, and beavers have been in-the creek
for all time, but it was not until recently
that he began to protect and care for them
with a view to -making -"beaver Taising a
regular business.
Dyeing tbe-6enkln.
Beaver skins sent to London and property
dyed a seal brown, are splendid imitations
of the seal The seal fur is naturally a
gray. They aro sent to London and thore
dyed a seal brown. The reason I say send
beaver skins to London Is because that is
the only place in the world, it eaemn, that
furs can oe properly dyed. However, the
fur of the beaver is naturally a reddish,
brown, and is a beautiful fur Just as it is.
But to the farm. The beaver is a queer
little animal. "WTicn full grown it weighs
from fifty to sixty pounds. Its hind legs
are fts principal propellers, both when it is
In and out of the wator. The hind feet are
webbed and the front ones have olaws,
whioh are about as convenient to the beaver
as a monkey'B hands are to him. They can
carry stones and sticks about in them with
ease. In the water, especially, a beaver
can carry a quantity of freight, for he swims
with his hind feet and carries his load in
his mouth and claws. .
Just after dark Mr. Kilgore -wenfrdowa
to the edge of the stream to feed the
beavers.
"I don't often feed'thenrin summer.' he
said, "for they get all they -want along the.
panKs or tne stream."
The Beaver's Food Supply.
They eat bark off th trees, and at this
season there is an abundance of fresh,tender
bark and grasses and roots. In the winter
thfvr lav un a supply of food for them
selves along the banks and In their holes
in the dams, which they build of roots and
succs ana stones, x sua mem nearly au
the time in winter, when they flock to
gether and unite in building dams, but in
summer 'they scatter every fellow is for
himself and I only call them up occasion
ally, just enough to keep them tame."
But there were a dozen romping about in
the stream then, and ina few minutes quite
a number hod gathered. Among them were
a score or more of little fellows corn only a
month ago. The females have from two to
six young each annually, and as a conse
quence the families increase very rapidly.
A mixture of green food and a little gram
was thrown out on the ground to the .herd
of little animals, and they scampered around
and picked It up like so many hogs. Some of
them would -rather up an ear of corn or a
young corn stalk and
,vo off with it into the
stream. They wouldscamperoffifyon tried.
i"to catch one.
Almost Human. Intelligence.
A bcayor seems to bo almost human in In-J
-telllgonco. They actually gnaw down young
trees, drag them into a stream ana 10c tnom
float down, swimming with them to the
place they want to build a dam. Then thoy
will drag stones and roots and sticks and
grasses, and, indeed, everything used to dam
a stream, until they have, practically, as sub
stantial a dam as a man comu construct.
They do this to mako the water deep enough
to sport in and placid enough to build their
homes of sticks and mud, whioh are very
warm and comfortablo In winter, and largo
enough ror a lamiiy 01 eignt or ten,
The beaver's principal tool ia building
these homes Is his tall. Tho tall is a scaly
trowel-shaped appendage, about 10 inches
long and 4 to 5 inches broad. The beaver's
main strength is in the tail. Ho can take up
soft mud on it, place it against tho sticks
and stones used to build Ills home, and pat it
down with the tail as flrmly and as well as a
man could do tho work with a trowel.
licsides tho fur, whioh Is tho main revenue
from the beaver, it furnishes castoroum, a
product used in medicines, and its flesh is a
food that, when properly prepared, is do
licious. While Mr. Kilgore has nover yet shipped
any large number of skins, by next year he
will have something like 203 or 300. As It
costs praotlcally nothing to raise beavers,
the business should bo a paying one.
. E.W.S.
A "Woman's Life Saved at Hlllsboro, Fa.
A neighbor woman was affliotcd with
cramp oolic. My wife thought it would
cost her life. She gave the woman Cham
berlain's Colic. Cholera and Diarrhoea
Eemedy according to directions and, it gave
perfect satisfaction. I do heartily recom
mend it to do all it is reoommended to do,
and feel thankful for the good it has done.
Joseph Bkekex, Hlllsboro. Somerset
looaat Bs. wsa
Ca
m .7?v"5tTL tl
-H3PrT
WM-e&s. Sim HDffl&m Tillffl
wvf --irJJffi sExSSbs. ''VfMffl.tfiE
a Jfcsfcj(
rmSF " ' .'J atri Vj,
.3&hMIs&
& Wft. fflW-rHI
B iw iiu-
A4SaenrHnIemer SbHoia,
Tfi6- .foiSJSSR
,-Oi-CAAlN.AiroCjaraiNr
The versatile French Writer -"whe-sfifstr became-fajnousithrough
i-'Around-theWosldiin.-Eighty-Days.''
CHAPTEB'T.
THS DKEADATJOinB.
There are two chances to one-t,ha-rrlendy
rwho are about to be separated by a long
voyage will never see each other again
those who are left behind may be -musing
upon the return; those who set out may
never come baok again. But no such,
thought as this bothered the heads of the
seamen who were busily engaged in getting
the Dreadnaught ready for sea on the morn
ing of March IB, 1875. On that day the
Dreadnaught, John Allaire, master, was- to
set sail from the port of San Diego, CaL,.on,
a voyage through the seas of the -Northern)
Pacific.
The DreadnaughVa three-master of 900
tonnage, belonged to-that type of clipper-
built ships which the Americans use so ad
vantageously in their foreign trade and
which in point of 'speed nearly rival the
best steamers in their merchant marine.
Such a finely-built' vessel was the Dread
naught, and so admirably commanded that
not a uteri ofher crew would have consented
to Bhip on any other vessel, even with the
assurance of higher pay. Every heart
throbbed, every breast was filled with that
two-fold confidence based upon the certainty
of having shipped on a good vessel under a
good captain.
The Dreadnaught-was-abont to leave port
on her first vovaffe. exefmtinfr. nf rnnrco
her trial trip, for account ofher owners, the
shipping house of Holllster & Co., of San
Diego. Her port of destination was to be
Calcutta, which she was to reach by way of
Singapore, with a cargo of American manu
factured goods, and upon her return yoyage"
Buc woe iv uriug ti cuiisiguuien& 01 ,rast In
dian merchandise for one -of the -Calif ornian
ports.
Captain John Allaire -was-a -vonirar man.
Just 29, with an open, manly Countenance,
THE 2I0MSXX
fall of force and decision. He was en
dowed to a high degree with moral courage,
so superior to physical courage the "two
hours after midnight" courage, as Napoleon
called it, that is to say, the Kind which can
calmly face the unforeseen and gather
strength in emergencies. It would be diffi-.
cult to imagine a finer specimen of physical
manhood. The flash of his dark eyes, the
ruddy cheeks, the broad shoulders and
arched chest, the great strength of his;
hands, the springy, elastio tread, all be
tokened the presenoe of an iron will inside
of an iron body. And yet John Allaire
was generous to a fault, ready almost in
stinctively to sacrifice his life for a fellov
r.r.atnra. He had bo much of the heroio In
him that it seemed only a matter of course
for him to perform a brave act, and he had
given an earnest of this while still a lad by
saving the lives of several of his playmates.
In after years this instinctive devotion
ripened into a matter of faith with him and
set its indelible Impress upon the man'B
character.
John AHatre had taken a wifoaftw years
previous to the sailing of the Dreadnaught
a Miss MoUie Manson, an orphan, belong
ing to one of the besr families of San Diego.
The young girl's fortune was a modest one,
but quite in keeping with the young man's
position that of mate on one of the Hollis
tor fleet of merchantmen. But there was
good reason to assume that Molly would
some day or another inherit a large fortune
from a rich uncle, Edward Manspn, who
was a large land speculator and mill ownr
in the western part of Tennessee. In the
meantime there were two people to support
yes, three, for little "Waiter "Walt as a
pet name had come into the world the
first year of their marriage, therefore, the
captain and the captain's wife agreed
with him couldn't think of giving up the
sea just yet. Later he would determine
-what would be the best thing for him to do,
either after Molly had bcoome an
heiress or he had grown rich in the service
of Hollister & Co.
Anyway, his career has been a brilliant
one, and he now found himself captain of a
splendid clipper ship at an age when most
of his associates were nothing more than
first and second mates. But the fact is, his
splendid qualifications wero universally con
ceded, and it would have been hard to find a
mnr -nonular man than Captain Allaire.
either in San Diego or in any other Califor
nian port The personal bravery displayed
by him in rescuing a shipwrecked orew on
one occasion, andin his skill and tenacity
of purpose in effecting the salvage of a val
uable cargo abandoned by master and sea
men had mode his name known to merchants
and shippers all along tho coast
The firm of Hollister & Co. . offered him
the command of the Dreadnaught, which
was all ready to be launched, Allaire had
accepted without tko slightest hesitation,
for he felt that he was qualified to fill tho
position, and had been thereupon author
ized to pick his officers and seamen, such
was the perfect confidence which the house
hadinhfm. It was under these circum
stances that the Dreadnaught was about to
make her first voyage under the command
of Captain John Allaire.
The sailing of this splendid new clipper
ship was quite an event. The firm of Hol
lister & Co. very justly enjoyed the repu
tation of being one of the wealthiest and
most reputable shipping houses in San
Diego, thanks to the wise administration of
nnantivl hv hi enmnatitors and beloved by 4
I- W".T' "V J 1 " 37-1.. ii- i t !
tiis menus. -.ywyoas-aa -ueuguico-waea
C2-I
Mtbecameknown ihsttheArnaioha AHair
in command of the Dreadnaught It was
not surprising, therefore, that on this par
ticular morning, March IB, a -vast concourse" '
of people, many of them personal friends'
and aU of them admirers of the yonng cap
tain, should have collected on the wharves
of the Pacific Coast Steamship-Company to
give him a parting cheer.
The crew of the Dreadnauglri was -mads
up of ten able seamen, and master;
and mate. The sailors were all natives oa
residents of San Diego, experienced meal
and glad of an opportunity to serve undej
Captain Allaire. The mate was an .excel
lent officer, Boderiok Shelton by nama AL.
though he was Allaire's senior by five or sis
years, this fact didn't gall him the" least bit,
nor did an envious or jealous thought ever
enter his mind. He was the first to ac
knowledge that Allaire was the man for the
post They had been messmates for years,
and had learned to appreciate each other;',
Besides, whatever "William HoBIster did!
was well done. Bod Shelton and his mea
were devoted to him, body and souL Most
of the crew had already shipped oa same
one or other of his vessels, ana officers' and
men were really like one family.
80 favorable, therefore, was the outlook
that but one thought seemed to be upper
most in the minds of the fathers andmothers,
wives and sweethearts, who congregated oa
the wharf to bid goodby to the fortunate sea.
men, and that was, it would be but a matter
of six months, a flying trip between Cali
fornia and India, an excursion from San
Diego to Calcutta, and not one of those
-commercial or exploring expeditions which
keep a ship at sea for years, exposed to the
most dangerous waters of both Hemispheres.
This crew knew what such expeditions were,
and their families had often seen them sail
away under conditions well qualified to
caussfgrave apprehensions.
The work of getting, the .Dreadnaught
ready for sea was nearly completed. The
ship was lying-pretty well out in the harbor,
so that when the time should come-for her
07 PAETI51.
to weigh anchor she would stand in need of
'no tug to tow her through the narrows. As
a good breeze was blowing off shore, all she.
would have to do would be to trim sails and'
get away. Captain Allaire couldn't have
wished for better weather or more favorable
wind to carry him out Of these waters,
which glistened in the morning sunfarbe
yond the Coronado Isles.
By 10 o'olock every man was at hls-ost.
Therowere to be no more permits to go
.-ashore. It might almost be said that the
voyage had actually begun. Several yawls
had come up alongside the ship at the star
board ladder to take off those who hod gone
on board to bid friends or relatives a last
goodby. Among these were Andrew Hol
lister, senior partner of thefirm of Hollister
& Co., and Mrs. Allaire, followed by a
servant In charge of little "Walt With tho
captain's wife were Lewis Barker and his
wife Kate, Molly's first cousin. Tho mate,
Bod Shelton, not having any family, had no
parting scenes to go through with; but ho
was more than certain that Mr. Hollister
and Captain John's wife would not fasil to
wish him good speed and safe return.
Just then Shelton was standing on the
forecastle, where half a dozen men were
already at the capstan weighing anchor, and
the click of the capstan pawls could be
heard. The Dreadnaught had already
swung around a littlo and the cable had be
gun to creak in the hawsehole. The
national colors were flying from the mizzea
peak, and from the main track was dis
played the house flag, bearing the Initials of
Andrew Hollister & Co. The sails were
loosened and all ready to be hoisted tha
moment the ship should get a little head
way under-the pressure of her forestay sails
and jibs.
Standing on the quarter deck, with his
watchful eye taking note of everything go
ing on about him, was John Allaire, listen,
ing to the last instructions of Mr. Andreir
Holhster, ia reference to the vessel and her
As tho merchant handed the ship's pa
pers and tho bills of lading to tho young
captain, he said:
"John, if clrcumstanoes should require
you to modify your course, act according to
your best judgment, and let me hear front
you from the firit plaoo you touch at Per
haps yoa may touch at the Philippines, for
I don t suppose you intend to pass through
Torres Strait?"
"No, Mr. JHolUstor," replied Captala
John, '1 have no notion of risking tho
Dreadnaught in the dangerous seas north of
Australia. My route will be the Sandwich
Islands, the Marianas, Mindanao of the
Philippines, the Celebes andMacassar Strait,
in order to reach Singapore through the
Java Sea. It's plain sailing from-this point
to Calcutta. I don't think that any winds
that I may meet with in the West Paciflo
will force me to change this course, How,
ever, should yon want to telegraph me, be
kind enough to address me either at Min
danao, where I may touch, or at Singapore,
where I certainly snalL"
"Very well, John, and dont neglect to
advise me at the very earliest possible mo
ment of market prices in Calcutta, It may
be that your report would lead me to mako
some changes with respect to the Dread
naught's cargo on her return trip."
"You may rely upon me, Mr. Hollister,'
replied Allaire,
At this moment Shelton approached!
"The anchor's atrip, captain."
f'Andtheebb?"
"Is making itself felt"
I'Stand by, theal"
Then, turning to"Mr. HoIliEtcr, Captala
4.
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