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SUMMER DRESS IDEAS.
What Some of the Exchanges Prescribe for
bfthe Hexted Term Styles for Oat-door
Costumes Paris Notions About Millin
ery Tho Sonnets anil GloTes.
The rose is still triumphant in millinery,
and the romantic wreath of roses has its
place as positively
as ever, gays -the
Zadut' Home Journal.
A particularly pret
ty lace hat is shown
in this illustration.
The brim is formed
of two frills of Hack
lace threaded with
gold, and the crown
is a soft, full one,
not unlike a Tam, of
piece lace. From un
der the crown is visi
ble a wreath of small
pink roses, one a little larger than the
others, standing out just in front. At the
back are some loops of pink ribbon, and
standing high up, close to the center, are
rosebuds and their foliage. The bending of
-thilof vra ilntic to suit the face, and that
is what is advised whenever a lace haHs-
wofn. The brims are all pliable, asc 11 tne
first curving of the outline does'flot suit the
face it is very easy to straighten it out and
achieve the curve which is best liked. Any
flowers fancied could take the place of the
roses on this hat, but the -roses themselves
seem so perfectly in harmony that one
cannot imagine any other flower being pre
ferred. A fiiineaisconnteda coodnricefora smart
bonnet in London. Black and gold is as J
iasuionaoie in tna mcirupuiia u guiuuiua.
tioa this season as it was last. The Tyrolese
hat threatens to become ridiculous. It is
jnaae in various sizes. The smallest meas
ures about three by six, and looks almost as
funny on a woman s head as those miniature
box hats with which clowns at a circus
evoke merriment.
Fashionable in London.
.Eere is a dresy outdoor costums of
re i daniie-blue corduroy cloth, sketched for
Mfii llantilim ot fail
2faJl Eudset in one of
the London shops. The
cot bodice is lightly
trimmed w ith silk
passementerie, and fits
the figure without a
wrinkle anywhere. It
Is too short to detract
from the wearer's
height The sleeves
arc- puffed on the
ihmildcrs to give
width and importance
to the figure, and are
finished offat the wrist
with neat gauntlet
cuffs trimmed with
braid. The skirt is
ornamented across the
front with fringed tfbs
of passementeno and
outlined witn two
row s of scalloped trim
ming. A gown made
of good cloth on the
tame lines as this
would cost about i
guineas. There are
good-looking skirts of home-spun, though
wi8i ample material for bodice, at less than
half that figure.
The "tailor made girl" is rejoicing this
year in the smartest of new garments a
frock coat the counterpart of the serious
masculine habiliment, says a Paris fashion
correspondent Last vear'she appropriated
the dress coat and "pink" hunting coat and
made them into very attractive feminine
garments. The frock coat is perfect in cut,
carefully fitted and finished in every detail,
especially in the facing of the lapels with
black silkj upon which she especially in
sists, and it is not too conspicuous, as'it is
in the style of the long coats so much worn.
The latest neckwear for this stvle of cos
tume is tho old fashioned "stock," or
"double scarf," worn as a cravat It is a
-voluminous piece of bias silk, black being
the most correct, folded twice around the
neck and tied in a kn.t with two "ears" in
front, in exact reproduction of the style of
cur grandfathers. The collar worn with the
Btock must be higher and more flaring than
the usual band, and is modelled after the
collars of the same epoch.
The turned down collar, called "the 1830,"
is the latest collar to be worn with the tailor
dress. .Reversed cuffs are also worn, but
they are rather troublesome and conspicu
ous, and the usual plain cuff with links is
preferred. "With thj turn down collar the
tailor made girl and her tailor have agreed
that jaunty small bows shall be worn as
cravats Black satin bow very carefully
made with the ends stitched across are cor
rect, and narrow linen washable ties in all
color pink, blue, buff and mauve, with
embroidered white dots, are charming for
spring mornings. A word forthe Bhirts and
chemisettes to be wom with these cravats.
AU kinds of colors with white collars, of
course, but French taste insists upn mak
ing these things a little more feminine, and
the shirts are made "soft," with stiff collars,
the plastron of silk or unstarched batiste in
tucks.
A Pretty "Walking Gown.
The smartest cotton gown of the season
Is pictured in this illustration. It is made
of white pique, striped w ith hair lines of
scarlet, just like the
pique used for men's
waistcoa-.i The skirt
is fitted lik a cloth
one, the heaviness of
the fabric making
this quite possible.
The coat basque, with
Aits long skirts joined
'ftjit the hip, is closed
Win double-breasted
Sfashion by large
pearl buttons, the
lapels permitting the
high lin en collar and
four-in-hand scarf of
scarlet silk to show.
The sleeves, raised
on the shoulders, are
shaped in at the el
bows, and fit the
lower part of the
arms quite closely.
White linen cuffs,
with links of coral
clasping them, are
visible just below
the sleeves, coming
over the white gloves
with their black
stitching. The hat
is a white straw tur
ban, with high loops
of white ribbon at
theback, and a full clusterof red flowers and
their foliage extending well over the crown.
The veil is a very thin, black one, with vel
retAlots far apart, a star and a crescent al
ternating. In heavy linen, in blue denim, or in any
pattern of pique, a costume like this would
bs in good style, but the material used for
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it must always have that mysterious some
thing known as a "body," which
will make it retain its shape.
A pique dress looks so immaculate that one
thinks it doubtful if it can be worn for any
length of time and retain its perfect purity.
Now, you know how you have worn a white
cloth an entire season. 'Well, a pique does
not attract th dust like a cloth, or hold it,
and the only suggestion about it is, that you
insist on your skirt being in straight folds,
and that you exercise a little care in sitting
down. Creases are to be dreaded, and the
pique, for more reasons than one, may be
advised as a most delightful walking toilette.
However, with care, one can learn to sit
in it The authority for this is the Zcdiet'
Sone Journal.
The "duchess slipper" is a quaint, co
quettish shoe such as, according to tradition,
the picturesque foot of Mother Goose her
self was wont to be clothed in. It is a com
fortable low shoe with a generous soleya
large, square tongue coming up over the in
step and a huge buckle set thereon. This
shoe may be a wicked-looking one of bright
red leather, only fit for a witch's foot, the
suitable shoe for those ladies who artfiMcd'
to keep companionship -ith thegentleman
with cloven foot,-he who is habitually
pictured on ony rural stage as clothed in
scarlet, saja"theNewYork2K&un. "Whether
for this reason or another, red duchess
slippers have never found any fashionable
favor, not even for house shoes. There are
very few women who have so small- a foot
that they can afford to add to its size by
clothing it in so conspicuous a color.
The Nitrate King's Family.
How a twenty-millionaire's wife and
daughter dress in England may be learned
irom tins: At
the Kempton
Park spring
meeting, Mrs.
North, wife of
the "Nitrate
King," wore a
handsome dress
of a pale greenish hue, brocaded with black;
a mantle of black and gold brocade, trimmed
with black lace and jet, and a bonnet made
of violets. Miss North's dress was dark
blue, closed with points of velvet satin in
skirt, bodice, basque and sleeves, and
braided all around with gold and blue braid.
Her broad brimmed hat was of black lace
with gold and black what's-o'clocks and
ostrich feathers, tipped with a small bow of
gray braid on the brim in front The gaunt
let glove shown herewith is the very latest
thing for the English beauty. The gauntlet
is short, and while it may not suggest the
saddle and the chase it is very neat and be--coming
for outdoor wear.
"A half-dozen veils to every hat," said a
Fifth avenue modiste, and he added that
they must be drooped from the wide hat
brim to the shoulders and gathered in at the
neck. The slight gathering of a single
thread will prevent th-s tightly-drawn ap
pearance which marked the winter style of
veil wearing. In Paris one wears a hat or
capote at the theater so there are theater
veils of pale lilac and mauv tints, netted
like the fine meshed nets one draws over
the iruzes on a windy day. The mos; fash
ionable street veil is of black net. upon
which is embroidered a rosebud, for dots are
common. "White veils are conspicuous, and
gray ones are pretty Tor blondes.
This is a striking summer mantle for fetes
and garden parties made of the new guipure
russe. inn exceeding
ly handsome kind of
guipure consists or a
silk-corded pillow
groundwork, combined
with crochet medallions
in gold or silver thread,
or with jet cabachons,
says the Philadelphia
Tuna. The effect of
these centres in black.
black and gold, or black
and silver, is particu
larly striking and hand
Isome. The "empicce
!ments"and collars made
of the new guipure
russe are worn over
lace capes of fine chan
tilly, and the bonnets
of the latest Parisian
style have crowns and
brims of the same gui
pure.
The most exquisite white India silks are
made for morning or afternoon wear. They
are plain and gathered all around with a
very little fullness in front and a small plait
ing in the back. Three or four tucks run
around the skirt with hemstitching at the
top of each tuck, and a great broad hem
with hemstitching at the top is at the bot
tom of the sort J-nese starts are oeauuiui
in their delicate creamy softness, and they
are, moreover, extremely graceful and be
coming to nearly all wearers.
A IfoTel Use for Silver.
A real silver belt, collar and cuffs. It
belong? to May Yohe, the girl with the
beautiful eyes and the deep contralto voice,
and was made for her in California, says the
New York Sitn. Of course it is solid silver.
The design is open and shows here and there
a four-le'f clover surrounded by a floriated
pattern. Thegirdjs isa deep point in the
back and front reacking far up on the bodice
and the same distance below the waist ljne
in front At the sides it is about two inches
wide and the fastening, on one side, is al
most invisible. The collar and cuffs are
pointed and will fit right over the cuff of
the sleeve or the collar of the gown. It is
specially effective -when wom, as it fre
quently is, over a Grecian costume of white
wool. t . . .
The shirt waist illustrated is of spott6d
cambric It is fitted by two side forms, and
has a tucked front
and a fitted back
with a yoke. Bias
cravat-ends three
inches wide and ten
long are attached
under the collar
and tied in a sailor
knot A belt St
the material, with
muslin lining and
canvas interlining,
is crossed at the
waist It is pretty.
and, what is more
important, is com
fortable. Here isa
Sretty hint for the
Trlllfl rIip Tnav " '
wear this summer preceding her "coming
out" It is a gown of white chiffon, girt
ishly made, with simplicity. About the
neckwear a boa of lilies of the valley.
Heaven alone could make a sweeter picture
than she would make attired in this exquis
ite toilette. Tor the young matron a deli
cate gown of pale pink or violet is becom
ing, and with the latter a boa of pansy pet
als in exquisitely painted velvet flowers.
The Importance of Idnlngs.
Look at your linings, says a fashionable
modiste in the St Louis Poit-DUpaUh. No
woman can too fully estimate the value of
fine linings. Cheap'things of this kind ruin
the appearance of a gown. They give way,
stretch and are altogether out of gear in a
brief time, while the firm' fining, like
Tennyson's brook, will "run on forever." I
know ona ladv of this citK who is a bril
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liant star of tSe social firmament and one of
the wealthiest women in the city as well,
at whom you would be amused if you knew
of her pe'nuriousriess. She does everything
to save money. She will take one old lining
to form the foundation of an entirely new
dress, and the old material fairly sets the
poor dressmaker vwild who cannot afford to
make the social light an enemy, and the tat
tered old linings put the modiste 'at utter
disadvantage. But the lady of unlimited
wealth resorts to this imaginary way of sav
inga method scarcely the poorest working
firl in the city would stoop to adopt
peaking ofjinings, those in the swell
woman's coats are as expensive as lovely.
Of two fine fawn cloth Louis XV. jackets
lately sent out for trousseaux, one was lined
with rich cream brocaded in bold chene de
signs of pink chrysanthemums and foliage,
and had sleeve linings of plain pink benga
line, while the lining of the second was an
exquisite" white brocade, barred with silver
and trailing patterns of small flowers in
bois de Tose corded silk. The buttons on
both jackets were large and made of onyx
Bet in a pretfily twisted border of gold and
oxidized silver.
A Gown fox an Outing.
The costume illustrated is of dark blue
cheviot trimmed with blue and white
striped wool, and
haung a shirt
front of white
crepon in the
open front of the
jacket It con
sists of a bell
skirt and a jack
et bodice. The
neck of the jack
et is trimmed
with Richelieu
lace as illus
trated -The pic
ture is taken
from JTarper't
Bazar. Lillian
Bussellwore an
attractive gown
at a recent "at
home. It was of
soft China silk,
and seemed
draped to her
figure, though
there-?as .
36ugh train to
maxe it cruceiui.
In color it was a
pale mauve, and
the bodice trim
ming a jacket
of Genoese point
lace. A little
brooch with a head of Marie Antoinette in
enamel and framed in diamonds was the
only piece of jewelry worn, except one or
two handsome rings and the Grecian band
of diamonds that now decorates her ' thumb.
Mrs. Crawford in describing the May party
at the British Embassy in Paris, says: Mrs.
Pulitzer's necklace,formed of seven closely
set rows of diamonds, was one blaze of light
Its irridescence would have thrown any less
beautiful wearer into the shade. But with
her rich bloom, dark eyes, animated physi
ognomy, health-magnetism, and tall, fine
figure, she triumphed over the rivalry of
her diamonds, and one looked more at her
than at them. Her dress was rich and ex
tremely simple, it being of white brocade
made en Prmcctse and frilled round the cor
sage with deep point lace.
A New Idea In Corsets.
The young ladies of the fashionable por
tions of St Louis are' happy over the ad
vent of anew kind of corset, which is a cross
between the stiff, restraining one and that
of the Jenness-Miller. This is of an ex
clusive nature and not on the market, but
sold by a .lady who herself invented it from
an idea received once while under the treat
ment of. Dr. Marion-Sims. In appearance
it resembles a corset waist and is the pret
tiest little affair you ever saw of the kind.
It comes in pale pink, blue, black and gray
and is buttoned up the front instead of be
ing fastened by the ordinary corset steels.
The back is canghj togethr by dainty silk
laces which match the color of the corset
itself. It is made of the finest sateen and
has forjts support only a few bones (a pe
culiar bone not obtainable outside, of New.
York). The idea of this corset is that it
shall not compress the form, but follow in
stead the lines of the figure throwing the
form above in the manner of French corsets,
yet without their compression. In. appear
ance it would seem jo run merely about the
waist but in reality it lacks only a little of
the length of the ordinary wear of this
kind. At the top is a pretty edge of em
broidery, while attached to it are supports
for the shoulder which make the form erect
and firm. "Where there is little natural fig
ure a deftly arranged padding of cotton is
sewed inside the corset bo as to exactly re
semble the natural form. By these devices
this new corset reduces the thickness of the
waist two sizes, while leaving the lungs free
for easy breathing.
The Bernhardt Bang.
The latest hair bang is called the Bern
hardt bang, and was originated by a coun
tryman ofthe celebrated actress. Its effect
is entirely novel. All the heaviness that
false hair usually brings to the face is ban
ished by the Bernhard;, which has a light
Eart in the middle of the brow, where a
ghi flufl falls nearly to the eyes on each
side A forms a softly curled wave of hair,
but waved with the old pervading air of
lightness.. By the way, this face artist de
clares that Bernhardt is the greatest judge
of powder of any woman in the world. She
would test the quality of the powder by
taking a pinch of the cosmetic between her
fingers, crushing it to find out its quality
pinch by pinch. And whilst on the subject
of powders, it is just as well to state that
powder puffs are now being made of enor
mous size, as large as the top of an ordinary
sugar basin, the handle being modelled
after the bust of some celebrated person.
Sometimes the handle unscrews and con
tains in its hidden space either a supply of
powder or eyebrow pencils and other acces
sories for the beauty's toilet. These puffs
are most convenient, especially lor travei
and for summer sojourning, where the aids
of beauty must not be neglected.
TIP P0P0CATAPETL.
Tedious and Arduous Journey to the Top
of Mexico's Mountain.
C H. Webb has just returned from a
fou.-months' outing in the wilds of Mexico
and the Central American States. Ho
visited the city of the Montezumas and
pointed for the lofty peak above.
"The train drops one at the station of
Popocatapetl," said he to a Fort Worth
Gazette reporter, "where you get a guide
and burros, blankets and provisions. Then
you trail to the base of the volcano and up
its steep zig-zags, where the timber and
vegetation are thick, and cool, bubbling
springs numerous, until the timber line is
passed. You travel miles to advance one.
When we reaf ned that line the snow came
down to meet the stunted trees. Then we
camped and the guide shot a mountain goat
and we heard the Mexican lions in the dark.
Nextmorning the burros were left behind,
and with blankets and provisions we packed
on. A blinding snowstorm obliged another
camp and the next morning we pointed for
the great crater.
"At midday the yawning bowl was
reached. It is probably 250 feet across and
600 feet deep, with a bottom pierced with
tunnels like a gigantic sponge. Outside
was all snow and ice. Ten steps inside and
all frost vanishes; the thermometer leaps 70
degrees. At theragged lips of this 'chim
ney of hell' the guide is on his knees im
ploring the protection of Santa Maria.
"Across the crater and 600 feet above
rises the lone spur. It is covered with
snow and ice. It took us an hour and a
half to make the perilous ascent, but we
made the trip and stood on the highest icy
spur.
"Then for the descent, which we found
more hazardous than the ascent Darkness
and a fearful snowstorm caught us 1,600
feet below. We had t6 camp in the snow,
but the next morning made a quick trip to
the timber line, where we found our burros,
and soon reached the base, where we could
look back and see that icy peak reaching
into a naked sky."
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A GUEST OF m ALTf .
Mrs. Sherwood Tells How victoria
Entertains at Buckingham.
USQt HUMBERTO IS'DEMOCRATIO;
Drinking the Cook's Health at the Baniuete
of French Rulers.
FAT LOUIS XYm. AND BIS STOHACH
rWBITTEN FOB THE rlSFATCH.
"Thrones, dominations, princedoms, vir
tues, powers." When we approach the sub
ject of royal entertainments, we cannot but.
feel that the best of us are at a disadvant
age, xney nave palaces and retainers iur-
nished for them. They have a purse which
knows no end. They are either by the
divine right, or by lucky chance, the per
sonages of the hour. It is only when one
of them loses his head or is forced to-abdi-cate,
or falls by the assassin's dagger, that
they approach at all our common humanity.
Doubtless to them, entertaining being a
perfunctory affair, it becomes very tedious.
Pomp is not an amusing circumstance and
they get so tired of it all that when off duty
Kings and Queens are usually the most
plainly dressed and the most simple of
mortals.
Koyal entertainments, however, have this
advantage: They opeh to the observer the
historical palace, and the pictnres, gems of
art, and interesting collections of which
palaces are the great conservators.
The Science ofthe Banquet.
It seems that Louis . XIV., called e
Grand Monarque, Louis, the magnificenC,
was a master of the art of entertaining.
Under him the science of giving banquets
received in common with the other sciences
great progressive impulse. There still re
mains some memory of these festivals, which
nil "F.nwmp vfnt tn Ktt nnA I1i.qn tnnrnn-
Tenfcfte.for the last time shone the
lances, and the Tulisntiy suns oi armor. a"c
J...:..1 -1 JT jsyl with n ftnmnfllllll
banquet where were displayCghuge center
pieces oi gold ana silver, painit$ j"
sculpture and enamel, all being Jributay-tS
the hero of the occasion.
This fashion made the fame of -Benvenuto
Cellini in Italy in the previous century.
To-day monarchs content themselves with
havingthese centerpieces of cake, sugar or
ices. There will be no record of their great
feasts for future ages.
Toward the end of the reign of Louis
XlV., the cook, the "corden bleu" received
favorable notice, his name was written be
side that of his patron, he was called in
after dinner. It is mentioned in some of
the English.memoirs that this fashion was
not unknown so lately as 50 years ago in
great' houses in England, where the cook
was called in in his white cap and apron,
publicly thanked for his efforts, and a glass
of wine offered him by his master, all the
company drinking his health. This must
have had an excellent effect on the art of
gastronomy.
Queen Anne Knew a Good Thing.
lime, de Maintenon, whose gloomy sway
over the old King reduced the gay court to
the loneliness of an empty cathedral, threw
a wet napkin in the science of good eating,
and put out the kitchen fires for a season.
Queen Anne, however, was fond of good
cheer, and consulted with her cook. .Many
cookery books have this qualification, "after
Queen Anne's fashion. " Under the Begent
Orleans, a princely prince, in spite of his
faults, the art of good eating and entertain
ing was revived; and he has left a reputa
tion for piques of superlative delicacy,
matelops of tempting quality and turkeys
superbly stuffed.
The reign of Louis XV. was equally fa
vorable to the art of entertaining. The 18
years ofeace had made France rich, a
spirit of convivality was diffused among all
classes. And the proper setting .of the
table, the order, neatness and elegance as
essentials of a well-ordered meal date from
this reign. It is from this period that the
history of the petit supers de Choisy begins.
e need hardly go into that history of all
that was reckless, witty, gay and dissolute
in the art of entertaining, but as one item, a
floor constructed so that the table and
sideboard sank into the lower story, after
eacn course, to De immediately replaced by
others which rose covered with a fresh
course,-we may imagine its luxury and
detail.
One IiOUla "Was a Cook Himself.
The famous Louis XV. was proficient in
the art of cookery; he also worked tapestry
with his own hand. We should linger over
his feasts with more pleasure had they not
led on to the French devolution as a hor
rible dessert His carving knives became
later on the guillotines.
Under Louis XVL there was a constant
improvement in all the "occupations which
are required in the preparation of food."
Cooks,.ratteur, pastry cooks, confectioners,
and the art of preserving food so that one
could have the fruits of summer in the midst
of winter, all were started then; although
the art of "canning" may safely be said to
belong to our own time muchlater on.
In the year 1740 a dinner was served in
this order: Soup followed by the bouilli,
an entree of veal cooked in its own gravy as
a side dish. Second course: A turkey, a
dish of vegetables, a salad and sometimes a
cream. Dessert: Cheese, fruit and sweets.
Plates are changed only thrice after the
soup, at the second course and at dessert
Coffee was rarely served, but cherry brandy
or some liquor was passedL
The reign of Louis XVHL, who grew to
be an immensely fat man, was a remarkable
gastronome. Let anyone read Victor Hugo's
"Les Miserablesj" and an account of his
reign, to get an idea of this magnificent en
tertainer. His most famous maitre d'hotel
was the Due d' Escars.
, The Cabinet Had to Walt.
When he and his royal master were
closeted together to meditate a dish, the
Ministers of State were kept waiting in the
ante-chamber, and the next day an official
announcement was made: "Monsieur le
Due d' Escars a travaille dans le Cabinet"
How strangely would it affect the Amer
ican people if President Harrison kept them
waiting for his signature because he was
discussing terrapin with Madeira sauce with
his chef I The King had invented the
"truffles a la puree d' ortolans," and in
variably prepared it himself assisted-by the
Duke. On one occasion they jointly com
posed a dish of more than ordinary
dimensions and duly consumed the
whole of it In the night the Duke was
seized with a fit of indigestion and his case
was declared hopeless. Loyal to the last,
he ordered an attendent to wake and inform
the King, who might be exposed to a simi
lar attack. His Majesty was aroused ac
cordingly and was told that d'Escars was
dying of his invention.
"Dying!" exclaimed the King, "well, I
always said I had the best stomach of the
two'
So much for the gratitude of kings.
The Parisian restaurants, those world
renowned Edens of the gastronomer, were
formed and founded on the theories of these
copkery-loving kings. But political dis
turbances were to intervene in the year 1770
after the glorious days of Louis XTV. The
wild dissipation ot the regency, after the
long tranquility under the ministry of
Fleury, travelers arriving in Paris found its
resources very poor as to good cheer. But
that soon mended itself.
The Great Beauvilllers.
It was not until about 1814, that the
parent of Parisian restaurants, BeauvilKers,
made himself a cosmopolitan reputation by
feeding the allied armies. He learned to
speak English and in that way was most
popular. He had a prodigious memory,
and would recognize and welcome men who
had dined at his house twenty years before.
In this .he was like General Grant and
the Prince of Wales. It is a very popular
faculty.
Beauvilliers, Meot Robert, Eose, Le
gacque, the Brothers very, Hennevan and
Balcine, are the noble army of Argonauts
gggjPfafffiflreg
in preserving the Parisian restaurant, or
rather they founded it .
The Brothers Very and the Irois
Ereres Prevenceaux, both in the .Palais
Eoyal, are still great names to compete with.
"When the allied monarchs held Pans, in
1814, the two Brothers "Very supplied their
table for a daily charge of 120 not includ
ing Wine Onrl in Pb.o la PTlAlRe & maSmlfi-
centi monument is erected io one of tnemv
declaring that his. "whole life was conse
crated, to the useful arts," as it doubtless
was.
From that day until 1890, what an ad
vance. There is now a restaurant injiearly
every street in Paris where one can get a
good dinner. What a crowd of them, in the
Champs Elysees and out in the Bois!
Paris Dinners of the Present.
A Parisian dinner is thoroughly cosmo
politan and the best in, the world, when it is
good. Parisian cookery has declined of
late in the matter of meats. They are not
as good as they ought to be, these dinners.
But as to sauces, they are so many and so
fine that they have given rise to many
proverbs. "The sauce is the ambassador of
a king." "With such a sauce, a man coud
eat his grandfather."
But leaving Fran cef or other shores, for
France has no monarch to entertain us now,
let us see how two reigning monarchs enter
tain. A presentation at the court of St
James is a picturesque affair and worth see
ing, although it is a fatiguing process. A
ladv must he flroirl nt 11 in the morning
L in full court dress, which means low neck
ana snort sleeves, witn a tram iour varus
long and three wide. She tnust wear a
white veil and have feathers in her hair, so
that they can .be Been in front White
gloves are also de rigueur, and as they are
seldom wom now, except at weddings, a
ladyt has to remember to buy a pair. The
carriages approach Buckingham palace in a
long queue and the lady waits an hour or
more in line, exposed to the jeersof the
populace, who look in at carriage windows
and make comments, laugh and amuse them
selves. One hopes that this may do these
ragamuffins good, as they look miserable
enough.
Arriving at Buckingham Palace.
Arriving in the noble quadrangle of
Buckingham palace the music ofthe guard's
band enlivens one and the silent, splendid
figures of the household troops, the hand
somest men in the world, sit like statues on
their horses. No matter if the rain is pour
ing, as it generally is, neither man nor horse
stirs. Once inside the palace the card of en
trance tis taken by one ofthe Queen's pages,
some other official takes a cloak and the
Jjdy wends her way up a magnificent stair
case ia another gallery, out of which open
many fiS8-"Ioni3. Gentlemen of the house
hold in glitterihg uniforms and with orders,
stand about in picluresjne confusion. The
last room is filled with 'eisjrs and soon is
full of ladies and gentlemen-vwaiting for
the summons to move on. u-
The gentlemen are all in velvet suits Qf
DlacK; witn Knee breecnes and a sword, bilk.
stockings and low shoes. A slight commo
tion at the turnstile gate tells you to take
your turn; you pass on witn the others;
your name is loudly called; you make three
little curtseys to Her Majesty, the Prince
and Princess of Wales; you see a glittering
train of royalties; you hear the words "your
train, madame;" it is thrown over your arm
by some cavalier behind, and all.is over, ex
cept that you are among your friends and
see a glittering room full of people and real
ize that nothing is so bad as you had feared.
After about one hour you find your carriage
and drive home, or to your minister's, for a
cup of tea
Queen Victoria at the Ball.
Then you receive (if you are fortunate) a
great card from the Lord Chamberlain with
the Queen's command that you should be in
vited to a ball at Buckingham Palace. This
is a sight to see. So splendid is the ball
room, so grand the elevated red sofas with
.the duchesses and their jewels. Bovalty
enters about 11 o'clock followed by all the
ambassadors.
Of late years the Queen has relegated her
place as hostess to the Princess of Wales,
but during the jubilee year she kept it, and
it was a beautiful sight to see the little
woman all covered with jewels with her
royal brood around her. "
The royal family go into supper through
a lane of guests. The supper-room is adorned
with the gold plate bought by George IV.
and many very fine pieces of plate given'by
other monarchs. The eatables and drink
ables are what they-would be at any great
ball.
The hospitality of the Queen is of course
regal, but ner dinners must of a necessity be
formal. General Grant described his dis
appointment that he did not sit next her
when she invited him to Windsor; but she
had one of her children on either side, and
he came next to Princess Beatrice. The en
tertainments at Marlboro house are much
less formal. The Prince of Wales, the
most genial and hospitable of -creatures,
cannot always pen up his delightful cordial
ity behind the Darriers of rank.
Eoyal Entertaining at Borne.
As for the King and Queen of Italy, they
do not try to restrain their cordiality. It is
the most easy-going, democratic and agree
able court, in spite of its thousand years of
grandeur. The favored guest who is to be
presented receives a card to the cercle, on a
certain Monday evening. The card pre
scribes low-necked dress, and any color Tint
black. To drive to the Quirinial palace of
a moonlight night in Borne is not an un
pleasant journey.
The grand staircase, all covered with
scarlet carpet, was lined with gigantic
cuirassiers in scarlet, who stood as motion
less as statues. We entered a grand hall
frescoed by Domenichino. How small we
felt under these giant figures. We passed on
to another salon frescoed by Julio Bohians,
so on to another, where a handsome cavalier,
Prince Vicovara, received our cards, and,
opening a door, presented us to Marchess
Villamarina, the Queen's dearest friend and
favorite lady in waiting. We were ar
ranged in rows around a long and handsome
room. Presently a little movement at the
door, and the deep curtseys of Princesj
Brancaccio and Princess Vicovar (both
Americans) told us that the Queen had
entered. Truly a royal beauty! a wonder on
a throne. An accomplished scholar, a
thoughtful woman, Marguerite, of Savoie,
is the rose of the nineteenth century. Her
smile keeps Italy together. ,
An Italian Court Bait
The next day came an invitation to the
grand court ball. This is a veryfine sight
The King and Queen enter and take their
places on a high estrade covered with a
crimson velvet baldachin. Then the ladies
and gentlemen of the household and the
ambassadors enter. The Count Gianotti, a
very handsome Piedmontese, the favorite
friend ofthe King, the prefect ofthe palace
and master of ceremonies, declared the ball
opened and the Queen danced with the
Baron Kendall. The royal quadrille over,
dancing became general The King stood
about, looking soldier-like, bored and
silent A patriotic and brave man hates
society. The Queen does all the social
work and she does it admirably. What a
company that was, .all the Eonjan nobility,
diplomatic corps, the visitors to Bome, S.
P. Q. B.j'the Senate and the Bonian peo
ple. ,
After the dancing supper was announced.
Boyalty does not sup in public in Bome as
in England. It is curious the aifference in
etiquette. The King and Queen retired.
We went in as we pleased at 10 o'clock,
had seats, and supped gloriously. The ex
cellent Italian cookery was served admir
ably. The housekeeping at the Quirinial is
excellent; such truffles! The Queen of Italy
moves about among the ambassadors' wives,
and summons a stranger to her side, if she
wishes to speak to one. A presentation to
her is more personal and gracious than any
at any other court-
M. E. W. Shebwood.
Another Disappointment
Hew York Press.
The price of Ice Is very low.
But beef is high this year,
And cows supply our cream, and so
Our ice cream will be dear.
FOB SKIN DISEASES
Use Horsford's Acid Phosphate.
Dr. P. Le Sieur Weir, Philadelphia, Pa.,
says: "In certain cases of skin diseases,
where the stomach is in a condition unfavor
able to the diseases, not infrequently navel
found it to correct that condition, when
nothing else yielded the desired result,"
.. - - ' .-.. -ftf t . t . ft. .p
MAM WOMEN OF IT.
KotaMe Gathering of Club Eepre
Bentatives at Orange, N. i. , .
A SUBPBI8E, EVEN TO DELEGATES.
Tho luncheon Given Ly Mrs. Edison at Her.
Beautiful Residence.
SPEECHES MADE AT THE C0TOCH
wxrrnwron Tins dispatch.!
Even an angel cannot.be expected to know
everything. It is true that those who have
cast off the material meld, and whose spirits
are "clad in virgin white," are popularly
supposed to know everything, past, present
and to come, but even, they do not know
how to get back to earth and to communi
cate with their friends concerning news of
the heavenly kingdom they inhabit, save, as
Is alleged, by way of the powers of dis
reputable mediums, who claim to be gifted
of heaven for this purpose. If, then the
denizens of the "blue ethereal vaults," en
dowed with spiritual prescience, do not
know all things, it is assuredly no disgrace
for us "worms ofthe earth," as the preacher
calls us, not to know everything.
"Jography" is a study in the schools,
drummed into the pupils with persistent
and terrific regularity. They are required
to know the latitude and longitude, the up
and down and across of cities and towns
without end. They are forced to commit
and "reel off" the boundaries of the coun
tries of Africa and Asia, and heaven only
knows where beside. They are bound to
know all manner of facts as to the people,
customs, means of living and all the tales
told by travelers of these countries of
heathendom, but who in Pittsburg, or for
that matter the "teeming boundless West,"
knows much, or anything of Orange? We
felt convicted, wjth deep humiliation of
spirit, that Orange had been left out of our
education. Our teachers with strange stu
pidity had failed to impress upon us, or
anybody, anything in the Orange line, save
perhaps a3 to the fruit bo named, and the
Prince of Orange and his famous followers
who have made the 12th of July (is it the
12th) a big day for Orangemen, but a black
one for the "wearers of the green." Bow
ever, we must not'go back into history, but
tell of the new knowledge that has broken
upon us.
A Very Nice Place, After AIL
When the cards of invitation to the Con
. federation of Woman's Clubs to be held in
Orange came to Pittsburg the query was:
Wny Orange? The idea was with most
that Qrange "was, a plain little country
village ainong the bogs of New Jersey. We
lay this1lactof knowledge to our teachers
of "jography,whoieVer impressed upon
our youthful miosis that Orange was a city
of beautiful; homesn Tieinity of New
York, where amid alKtk .laxuries of the
city, and the blessed deligj'?f the country,
the magnates of New York V large num
bers are accustomed to "sinkVthe shop,"
and rest their perturbed spirits'-aner the
rush and roar ofthe mighty Dattle between
the bulls and bears, the sharks and lkpbs,
the legitimate of commerce and the trftks
of trade, which enter into the whole busi
ness of making a living.
"The Oranges" are sections of what ap
pears to be a spacious city of homes.
Splendid streets, electric lights, city advan
tages of water, mail delivery, polioe and all
the rest of it, coupled with country living,
quiet, pure air amusement and recreation;
rural surroundings, verdant lawns, magnifi
cent trees, gorgeous flowers, close-cut lux
uriant hedges, fine houses of every variety
of Queen Anne, colonial, castle and cha
teau abound. There is a sharp'rivalry as to
beauty and taste, we should judge, by the
appearance of things, since likeness is not
the rule, but rather the reverse. Every
where there are to be .found fools, hence we
infer, from outside appearances, that there
are fools in Orange it sticks out still, it is
likely there are no more there'than any
where, save that the possession of money
shows it up perhaps more prominently.
At a FittsbnxgeT'g Expense.
A good story is told concerning one of our
Pittsburg magnates that .would apply in
Orange. It goes in this fashion: One of our
home-made kings built himself a house of
splendid proportions and at temendous ex
pense. After showing it over to one of his
mends, he was bluntly advised to buy a
parrot and teach it to say "damned fooL"
However, all-in-all, Orange is one of the
most beautiful and delightful places imag
inable. In our deplorable ignorance, we
inquired what the people of this charming
place did for a living. The answer was that
the citizens of these 'lovely Oranges" were
magnates of New York, who make for
themselves beautiful homes, and accumu
lated shekels by virtue of their brains and
smartness.
The women of Orange are, as may be sup
posed, uncommonly intelligent They have
all the advantages of New York within easy
reach. Eorty minutes' ride will take them
into the maelstrom of trade the madding
world's ignoble strife, but their daily lives
are passed in quietude and peace, amid
flowery meads, and under the shade of
spreading trees. We presume they are
hardly exempt from the woes of .human
nature. We have little doubt that the
three dreadful Ds dress, domestics, and
disease form part of their daily walk and
conversation but certain it is that we heard
little of them during our visit. In the days
of old the social gathering of women were
mainly confined to quiltings, apple butter
boilings and funerals, and devoted to a dis
cussion of the three Ds, as before mentioned;
now, these in the course of civilization and
the march of intellect have been superseded
by clubs devoted to art, science, literature,
mutual improvement and philanthropy.
Well Up In Women's Clubs.
In this matter Orange is not behind by a
long way, but rather ahead by a large ma
jority. We of Pittsburg, with our club 18
years old, are a little taken down alongside
the Woman's Club, of Orangewhich cele
brated on this occasion its nineteenth anni
versary with a membership of over.lJO and
with a list eagerly and anxiously waiting
for admission. In this membership is in
cluded the brains, talent; culture -and wealth
of Orange.
As to felicity of living the Orangers dis
agree. Those of East Orange thank their
stars dailr that fate has bestowed upon
them the blissfulness -of- living east; those j
nortn think tnat tney are lavored oi fortune
by having the. needle turn a .little in. their
direction; those of Orange proper give glory
to the gods that they are planted just where
they are, but all are united in the Woman's
Club, and enjoy its delights together.
By invitation and hospitality of this grand
club, the Confederation of Woman's Clubs
held its first council meeting with Mrs.
Charlotte Emerson Brown as President In
this confederation 27 States are represented.
Massachusetts sent the largest delegation.
Pennsylvania was represented by eight
clubs. At the meeting the delegates were
received with open arms, so to speak, and
speedily with hospitable hands were dec
orated by a bouquet of lilies of the valley
set off by an orange flower the symbol of
the club and a bow of white ribbon. The
council met in a beautiful hall belonging to
theW. C T. 17., erected for their own
special work and rented for special unc
tions. Decorated, as it was, with potted
palms and yellow flowers, it presented a
very different appearance from the fusty,
musty, dusty audience rooms of so many
places.
A Luncheon With Mrs Edison
Then followed a luncheon at the resi
dence of Mrs. Thomas A. Edison, the wife
of the world famous inventor. 'The
spread" was 'magnificent as might be ex-
Sected. In a splendid room, known as .J'the
en" of Edison, were five long tables and a
half-moon table in the spacious bay window.
Mrs. Edison was faced by Julia Ward
Howe at the middle table, at which were
seated those snored to respond to the toast.
Words fail, and dictations could hardly ex- 1
press the beauty ofthe tables and environ
ments. The Edison home is in Lewellyn
Park, a great estate that Jias been laid out
in the home places and restricted to remain
lovely. The roadways are in notably fine
order, electric lights abound, and the ideal
of living has apparently been reached.
How all this is managed we have not yet
discovered, but there must be a fixed plan
ana close corporation.
The Edison house is rich In pictures and
all that cultured wealth implies. Mrs.
Edisos is young and handsome, and re
minds the onlooker of -nobody so much as
Mrs. Cleveland. She maintains she is a
plain every-day woman without a history,
but from heri interest in Woman's Club
matters, and the little speech she made in
response to a toast, it is evident that she
has intellectual attainments much beyond
the average woman. Mr. Edison responded
to a toast by medium qf the phonograph,
which also reproduced a musical composi
tion! with fitting accompaniment
The 'Cream of Womankind.
But beautiful as was all else beside, the
chief interest was centered in the remark
able women within its walls. These were
of the 400 of brains and culture. These
Presidents of Woman's Clubs there assem
bled represented a multitude of women,
whose knowledge and capacity of mind are
far beyond the common. Upon the stage as
presiding officer was Mrs. Charlotte Emer
son Brown a near relative oi Balph Waldo
Eifierson, of literary renown, Near her
were Mrs. Julia Ward Howe, of national
fame and President of the New England
Woman's 'Club; Dr. Jennie Lozier; Presi
dent of Sorosis of New York; "Jennie June"
Croly, Mrs. Mary Brown, of Chicago, and
Miss Temple, of Tennessee. Among the
audience were some of the finest contribu
tors to the ' magazines and newspapers
nearly all ready speakers, as well as ready
and able writers.
It was perfectly wonderful to hear how
well some of them could talk, and how
quick they are with their wits. There was
no symptom of the dull prosing to be heard
at men s meetings; no talking to nothing in
the heavens above or the earth beneath.
When there was anything to say updh a sub
ject they said it, and when there was noth
ing to the point, it "went by" without a
word. "Rotation in office was the subject
upon which most spice, wit and logic were
expended. "Dead wood" in office was de
rided, a free ballot was upheld and mug
wump sentiment not as to politics aiv
peared to prevail. At the conclusion of the
session, the Presidents of clubs were in
vited to take "salt" with Mrs. Emerson
Brown on the succeeding day, when a sym
posium and informal council would be held.
The Feat of Taking Salt.
Taking'"salt" with Mrs. Charlotte Emer
son Brown at her home, in East Orange, the
next day, was not only a pleasant affair, but
was also a very instructive and delightful
"experience" meeting. Club matters were
discussed by the delegates from the several
States without the limits and restrictions of
a formal business meeting. The extempo
raneous speeches were exceedingly enter
taining, and showed that the readiness of
tho tongue of women, which so excited the
wonder of Addison in his day, was a nota
ble attribute of the women of the present,
and, with the polish of intelligence ahd
wit, even more efficient and formidable. If
I might make a criticism, it would be that
the solemn purpose and dead earnestness of
some of the speakers are a little too pro
nounced and overpowering' at times. A
little nonsense now and then is relished by
the wisest men and also by the wisest
women.
The spice of wit and flash of fun, how
ever, were not lacking at this council of the
Presidents of Confederated Clubs. Alto
gether it was such a meeting as has never
probjhly been held in the world before. It
was a revelation to every woman present
Of those present and other matters I shall
have more to My hereafter.
, Bessie Bbambli
BEAT! IN KETTLES.
MOKE THAW SENTEiIENT DICTATES
a CUSANIXNBSS IN THE KITCHEN.
Jules GonflVs- Idea About It-Prudent
Housekeepers Will Inspect Their Cten
. tXU Every Day Virtues of the Wooden
Spoon.
WBrrrxxroB tbz dispatch.i
"Cleanliness," as the text has it, "is next
to Godliness," and the word "cleanliness,"
says Jules Gouffe, a high authority in mat
ters of the cuisine and one whose language
is often quoted by-literary people, "should
be graven in capital letters over the door of
all kitchens, large or small." He would
thus, as it were, give it as profound a sig
nificance as the famous line which the
genius of Dante saw blazoned on the arch
way wnicn lea to tne place oi torment; or
as that sentiment which the skeptic philoso
phers at the epoch of the Srench Bevolution
wanted to have engraved over the entrance
to the cemetery of Pere la Chaise near
Paris; or as that talismanio word which had
to be pronounced before the door swung
open to the cave of AliBaba in the Arabian
Niehts.
There are many more cook books pub
lished in the United States than in any oth
er country, yet it is generally admitted that
the best authorities on the subject are
French. In the language of Uncle Toby,
"They do these things better in France." It
is, therefore, nothing remarkable that such
an excellent master should make such a re
mark, seeing how natural it would be, but
you see how he insists upon it And the ad
vantage of cleanliness from a business point
of view, in the office of those who cater to
the appetite, has by none been more highly
appreciated than by the French. In this
art they are, it would seem, very justly
noted as being judicious as well as refined
practical as well as testheticaL
No Mustaches for Walters.
An instances is at hand. At this time
there is a great comrsuVon in Paris over the
demand ofthe respectable body of waiters
for the privilege of wearing mustaches.
While the innovation of -beards was toler
ated in the laity in the time of the empire,
and subsequently in the learned professions,
table waiters have been unto this time de
barred of this privilege,. The reason seems
to be that public sentiment or taste does not
approve ofthe change in the fear that an
offense might be committed againat the ac
cepted proprieties all in the name of clean
liness. The same rule- obtains across the
channel, but somewhat mitigated; men ser
vants in England in private families, by an
unwritten law, are clean shaved, but the
rule is relaxed as to those who are employed
in public houses.
But particularly should the word "clean-
Extract From the Bean.
Dr. Price's Delicious Flavoring Extract of
Vanilla is extracted from the true Vanilla Bean
obtained from Mexico.
This popular flavor, as made by Dr. Price,
embodies all the delicate aroma of this agree
able fruit, and is free from the strong, rank
taste of those extracts sold as Vanilla, which
are made from the cheap tonqua or snuff
bean.
If something pure and njee is wanted to
flavor cakes, pies, creams, or puddings, use
Dr. Price's Delicious Flavoring Extracts, and
the housewife wilfnever be disappointed.
18
SW ADVERTISEMENTS.
ILL PAPER,
14?
WE TAKE STOCK JULY t
., GREAT
REDUCTION I
During Junk.
Wm. TrMle & Co.
"'s-stx Wood eat.
TOy31-sn
llness" be graven over the closet which
contains the cooking utensils; for to no
othertdepartment of the household should
greater and more scrupulous care and at
tention be given than to that It must be
remembered constantly that the brass and
copper kettles are to be kept perfectly clean
because these, from certain causes, are liable
to be coated with poisonous verdigris.
Cases of poisoning have been in many in
stances traced to the food cooked in vessels
of either of these materials. And how many
a stomach has suffered from the eating of
food cooked in worn out tin vessels for
with such utensils the danger is scarcely
less. The prudent mistress will make it
her duty to visit and inspect this closet
daily, unless she have the most conscientious
of servants. If her visits are less frequent
she may not be surprised to find on occasion
the coffee pot cohtaiding dregs stowed away
in company with the soup kettle, filled,
maybe, with greasy dishwater. Under such
conditions their proximity is 'likely to be
detected by the odor, indescribable and
dangerous, often found in foul kitchen
sinks.
Keeping Kitchen Pipes Pare.
As to the kitchen sink or rather the es
cape pipe leading from it, which is usually
the real cause of trouble this can.be kept
clean and pure if a cupful of lye
water is poured into it the last thing at
night No water should be allowed to run
into the sink till the next morning.
Coffee, like soup, cannot be made good,
I care not what brand is used, unless the
jiot is clean. Under no circumstance should
the dregs be allowed to remain in it from
one meal to another. Wash it thoroughly
and especially in the spout? see that not a
dreg remains, remembering that coffee is
oftener spoiled from an unclean pot than in
any other way; for which reason some of our
best cooks prefer a pot minus the spout I
scarce need rep'ftt the old rule, familiar
to every housekeeper, "Always scald the pot
before putting in the coffee." An anec
dote is related of an old lady who
neglected this important dnty when
making coffee for a friend who had come to
see her. The peculiar flavor of the bever
age could not be accounted for. until sud-
denly the hostess remembered that the last
time the pot Was used she had made "yarb"
tea in it
Another kitchen utensil which likewise
is often neglected is the teakettle. Some
housekeepers clean it as they cleanJiousesTT
once a year; others never clean it all, uaJ
less it should be to polish up the,outilde.m
This indispensable utensil shokldj haj-s
thoroughly washed at least onceftfjreek,"!
and rin5gd out every morning. , .The wt.Ss
"t&-'b"usea from it for all cooking purposes 'Z
should be freshly boiled, especially for tea-'--and
coffee. The careful housekeeper, for
the health of all concerned, will see that
fresh water is put into the kettle tutrj
morning not the water that has lain in the
pipe, or stood in the pail all night
The Omelet Pan Must Shin.
The omelet pan is an article that must set
be overlooked. To make a perfeot omelet
.the pan must be clean and bright Indeed,
so particular in this regard are our best au
thorities they will not admit that an omtlet
worthy the name can be made in a pan
wnicn lacxs mess conditions; ana. we are
cautioned from using it for any other pur
pose, than the making or omelet as thsy
with like import insist that the cake-griddle
should not be used for any other pur
pose than that for which it was intended.
The omelet pan may be kept perfectly clean
without the use of soap and water, neither
of which improves it for cooking purposes.
The griddle and the pah are kept clean and
smooth by rubbing their surface freely with
salt
There are some, too, who are not so care
ful as they should be in the kind of cooking
spoons they use. Plated spoons, with the
plating worn off, or old iron spoons may be
often seen in the kitchens of reputedly good
housekeepers. Sometimes these spoons are
allowed to remain in the kettles of fruit or
vegetables during the entire process of
cooking. One can well imagine what in
jurious results may follow, especially if the
food has acid properties. The wooden
spoon is much to be preferred it costs but
a trifle, is easily kept clean, and, in the ab-
sence of silver, is by far the most desirable.
Old housekeepers are proverbially reluotant
to profit by suggestions, but the young one
will do well if she early cultivates a lQdnj
for the wooden spoon.
We have named but a few ofthe more
common kitchen utensils which require con
stant care; to the inquiring woman there
will be suggested many others the care of
which is deserving of her consideration.
The claim of cleanliness about cooking and
service appeals to the senses inversely to
the repugnance and disgust at uncleanliness.
Nor do we here speak of the sense of pleas
ure which is brought to the imagination by
flowers and artistic tableware. This is
"cleanliness" in the superlative degree.
But when the motive of cleanliness in the
kitchen is no less than the conservation of
health, the woman of the house should not
and certainly will not overlook its import
ance. Eixicz Sekexa.
-V-
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