Pittsburg dispatch. (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, May 17, 1891, THIRD PART, Page 20, Image 20

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    Msjssesse
20
A LETTER FR03I FELIX.
Worth's Itival Declares Against Crinoline
The Ugly Dress Improver Mine. Car
nofs Xew Gown Tclict tlio Kago Just
Sow-Late Millinery.
COKKESPOXDEXCE OF THE DISPATCH. J
Paeis, May 15. I am forever being asked
if there is any likelihood of a return of the
Eeign of Terror, I
mean the reign of
the crinoline. And
iny oft repeated an
swer is no, a hun
dred times nol It is
strange how people
refer constantly to
the abomination, as
if in the natural or
der of things it must
some day. return to
fashion!
The dress-improv
er, which, indeed, is
only a mitigated
form of crinoline; is
in ni- opinion
nearly as ugly and quite as incongruous.
Taste resides almost entirely in the har
mony and simplicity of line; beauty, in the
hunian fo.ni rUelf, not in a base caricature
of nature's handiwork How is k possible
for taste to manifest itself and beauty to ex
ist, with such a hideous escresence beneath?
Look at the women of to-day in dresses
that would, but do not, disguis? the grace
ful outline of their figures. Thi present
style of garb (I am sure you will agree with
me) is infinitely becoming, and ." a.j proud
to think that I hava done a greaf deal to
ward bringing it into vogui. livery inch of
superabundant drapery is a mistake in my
eyes, and all trimmings which have not, as
It were, their raion d'etre ought to be
tabooed. You 1111 think it strange for me
to say so: but I would rather see a oman
clothed in the plainest goun run up by her
maid, than clad in the complicated arrange
ments in fashion some years since.
Throughout the winter we have been
making a great many velvet dresses with
absolutely plain skirt A
sheath-shaped in front,
and with some flow ins;
pleats at the back, and
cut so as to train a few
inches, thoush in
tended for wearing
out of doors. Such
slarts may be conven
ient, bui they are not
elegant, and they may
just as well sweep tho
ground as touch it; in
both cases a lady-like
distate to defile the
hem of the feminine
JIany of our evening
robes were made with
panicrs. 3S ow the
panier; when kept
w ithin bounds, is not
merely enective in
itself," but follows out
and accentuates the
natural form of the
hip, and in doing so
makes the waist ap
pear slighter.
I do not advocate
.XV?S. ffaPl
AV23S8
Ta r- Sas
(7 " S?W
1 ST
I - -Si
m Mm
f4gr
Fig. 1.
garment will prompt Sf,SfeJyMY
the wearer to lift it 0rQiSv4'A
out of harm's war. VVj WVAU' )
?l V7 AJVA'X '
!,.. " , 4' I
change for the f-ake of F,g 2.
change, but it i generally understood that
each season must bring with it seme modifi
cation of fashion. The sheath skirt or
fourreau said the panier hae provided us
with a text for a series of very becoming
gowns, both simple and dressy." The sever
ity of the fourreau is broken" by the addi
tion of a sort of overdress that tails in folds
over the front of the skirt and in a narrow
train behind, wiiile it leaves the sides un
covered. This overdress has a low bodice
supplemented by a high one with long
slee cs of the tame material as the sheath,
and the sides of this bodic confined at
the waist by "a belt a frill that falls over
the hips, playing the same pait as the
jianier.
"Vc ring the chauges ad infinitum. This,
in one instance, the fourreau, high bodice,
and sleeves, will be of yellow, striped hori-
zontally with a deep blue i ib. and the over
dress of dark blue Bengaline. Or, the en
tire toilette may be composed of pearl pray
crcpon, the sheath skirt and s-leevts ruled
w ith lines cf narrow silve- braid. Acaiu,
the foundation may be silk or brocade and
jje upper strata black lai-v.
Jji bthcr models, the arrangement of the
Ekirt is maintained, whereas the bodice sug
gests a Fieaio Aest, the outlines of which
are penciled in metallic braid. "While for
dinner and evening dresses designed for
home wear, which, although low in the
neck, lme bometbing of the tea-gown about
them, the same effect is pioduced with deli-cate-hued
China crape, which forms a sort of
tunic, draped becomingly from the shoul
ders and confined at the waist like a Greek
robe, so as to fall in elegant folds back and
front, leaving the sides plain and statuesque.
Crepons of all kinds are very popular this
season, and the Trench lawns provide me
with au inexhaustible variety of simple pat
terns and exquisite colors; oil the one hand
pale gray, heliotrope, lilacs and dull pinks;
on the other dark blues, bright j cllows and
reds of brilliant dye. The supply of thin
bilks is equally varied. " These I find par
ticularly suitable for an empire style of
gown. Here is a delicate Indian silk "of an
uzalia tone, spotted with black, made up
into a round full skirt, bordered with bands
of black lace insertion, a niching of silk,
and full baby bodice. A dress somewhat
similar is reproduced in a new style of silk
that has the shine of satin, the "sofaness of
faille and the lightness of foulard. It emu
lates the hue of the poppy and is studded
with small white stars. Mme. Recamier
may have sported such a frock. Xor is taff
etas omitted from our fashionable list.
Crisp white taffetas, checked with black
satin, makes up charmingly in the form of a
round skirt and bodice, almost without
seams, exhibiting the figure to its full per
fection, thanks to a gathered frill falling
below the waistband.
The fair reader will not be content if I do
not add a few words about their outer gar
ments. Asa smart mantle; let me recom
mend a cuirass of shot pigeon breast silk
richly worked with jet, furnished with full
hanging sleeves of chantilly and deep
basques of the same black lace. Capes or
mantes, as we call them, borrowing a name
from the vocabulary of the last century
in the same glace silk and entirely devoid
, of trimminc, provide natty coverings (fresh
and springlike) for youthful .shoulders. For
the opera there are few more handsome
wraps than a lialf-long mantle in nasturtium
colored plush weighted by rosaces set with
topazes, and falling in heavy folds from the
Medici collar w ithin which-softly nestling
against the threat lies an ambcr-hued boa
ol ostrich feathers. Jjcss ornate, but perhaps
more elejant, is another model. Just a long
II III .aajaraf. t h L .. . .,, , . Jj
ample cloak of palest gray cashmere one
corner cf which the w earcr tosses carelessly
over the left shoulder, secured around the
throat by a long pale pink feather boa. AVe
make wraps, too, of transparent materiab,
for instance, black net embroidered with
gold supplementing the gossamer by a sec
ond under-cloak of light silk.
As for millinery, I am more than half
inclined to leave it out altogether, for it is
next to impossible
to give in written
words an adequate
ides of a hat or
bonnet The pret
tiest headgear is
the least easy to de
scribe, because its
prettiness resides
in the very fact
that its component
iarts are deftly
)lended together
into a becoming
whole. "What is to
be said of the hat
that is but a rim of
diaphanous lace in
closing a coronet of
iliac, ot tne one
composed entirely
of leaves and flow
ers and of the bon
net which reminds
you of the crecle
kcrchier Ect on a
diadem of scarlet
blossoms, of the
chapcau with a
frilled, boa in lie-i
of strings, or of the
capote which is at
tached by gilded
ribbons around the Fig. i.
chignon, save that each in its way is charm
ing. We are making fanciful collarettes and
fichus en suilie with our chapeaux, cunning
amalgamations of lace and flowers, that re
call the head covering, whether it be toque
or hat, and serve at the tame time to com
plete a dress for out of doors. Here is
drapery of chantilly fastened by bouquets
of lilac, theie a high frill of lace by a cor
don of buttercups or cowslips. One fichu
of black tulle is studded with violets, an
other with "crimson-tipped" daisies; and
each lias not only a toque to match but also
a sunshade a dome of tulle strewn and
garlanded with the sama delicate blossoms.
"We are eclectic or we are nothing. The
Louis XV. coat still finds favor with us;
but we prefer
not to carry the
basque all the
way round which
has the effect of
cutting the wom
an in two and de
tracts from her
height. So the
back pieces of
the coat are made
in one with the
skirt.thebasques
performing the
same office as the
paniers. An ele
gant costume in
old blue faille
embroidered
copied from
an ancient de
sign, is being re
peated in tan
colored with cm
broideries i n
different shades
of the same tone
for 3Inie. Car
not. Mack silk em
broidered with
pompadour bou
quets is another
favorite. One of
our more serious
models cus-
riff. s.
flWIOTB tro nnt .ill T-nt.rtrp oti elimol rwnlli
is made partly of such silk and partly of
black satin brocade; the latter composing
the pointed deini train. This mantle, witii
its loose faille sleeves, mounted in a double-
box pleat, standing up like a cock s comb
on either shoulder, and its plastron of vel
vet sparkling with jet suits it to perfection.
Jet decorations I hold in high favor, and
am extremely partial to them in the shape
of light tracery upon such delicate- tints as
loe-petal-piuk, palest torquoiss blue or
golden maize for evening dress. A pink
silk jobc, the upper skirt cut into long,
tongue-shaped pieces worked with jet is
charming, while the introduction of black
ehet draperies about the deealletage is
eminently fitted to set offapair of white
shoulders. The designer is bound to think
of these things, and it is this constant
desire to place the lady whom he dresses in
the best possible light that lifts him abov e
the common herd of dressmakers.
G. Felix. jJ
WOMAN'S V0B1D ILLUSTRATIONS.
Pretty Tigures Tliat 3Iay Servo as an Aid
to the Teniinino Taney.
The illustrations for this department of
The Dispatch are furnished by some
clever exchanges. Pig. 1 shows a toque
w ith strings, taken from The Season. It is a
tulle hat, edged with straw, and is decorated
with a bunch of forget-me-nots and a Cleo
patra band of steel with gold beads.
Fig. 2 shows a new foulard dress, with
gathered bodice, fastened invisibly behind,
cuffs and corsage trimmed with ribbon; rib
bon skirt band comes over bodice; tulle hat,
-with roses; himalaya shawl. It is a beau
tiful creation for summer wear, adds Tire
Season.
Fig. 3 shows a dainty cotton gown from
Harper's JJazar. Pink dimity made over
pink sateen is the material. The skirt,
which is three yards and three-quarters
w ide, is drawn up slightly on the hips, and
closely gathered at the back. The bodice
has draped and crossed fronts, and a French
back which is slashed at the waist, and has a
ribbon belt drawn through the slits, comple
ted by a long sash bow at the middle.
Jacket fronts of white lace partly cover the
bodice fronts, and the high collar and small
plastron are of lace. The full sleeves are
striped with lace insertions, and have deep
close cufis of lace.
Fig. 4 shows the distinguishing effect of
the rococo bow, which btands foremost
among the newest of fashionable dress
trimmings. The costume shown is made of
light gray cloth. Three rows of rather
large, white applique satin bows are set on
the front breadth, which is edged with
feathers; the slightly training back breadth
remains untrimmed. The tops of the puffed
sleeves have also white satin bows, ana the
white satin yoke is relieved by gray cloth
applique bows. The bodice is pointed back
and front, and edged with a thick gray sitk
cord, witli ends tied in a bow and finished
off with handsome grelots. The gold passe
menterie toque is trimmed with pink flow
ers. ' Corsage Uoquets No More.
Corsage boquets are entirely "out" this
year. All Cowers, unless it be one very 1
iMim
uimn i.i
ammm
' Si! Ill
IBpt
Ililil
M
ief
perfect rose or orchid, are carried in the
hand. "Women have come to the very sen
sible conclusion that handsome gowns are
ruined by having flowers pinned upon them,
while of course to fine lace or cobwebby
chiffon they mean total annihilation.
TO HANG AT HER BELT.
A Novel little Ornament That "Promises
to riease Beauty.
Among the many new ornaments of the
.season we noticed one intended for young
ladies, which will
certainly 'suit their
taste, says Tim Season.
It is a pretty gold
or silver chain end
ing in a ring, from
which hang all sorts
of trifles, a flacon, a
tiny mirror, watch,
penknife, powder
box, etc All these
are perfect minia
tures; the chain it
self is suspended by
a hook from the
wearer's belt, the
hook being covered
Tvith a bow.
:., misliinn is an easilv-made
ornament "for the boudoir. Tjio pieces of
cardboard are cut, the shape of the flower
and then covered with yellow satin or silk.
One is placed over the other and the space
between filled with sachet powder to give it
the necessary perfume. Draw the outlines
of the petals on your satin flower, and paint
any color you prefer. "When dry, stick pins
in all around the pansy.
Pretty Menu Cards.
The sweetest little menu cards of ivory
white, "glossy paper, are printed in silver
and elaborately festooned with delicately
tiny rose wreaths. The card is-held on
either side by little girls and boys of paper,
and so perfect is the coloring and so true
the proportions that they look exactly like
Dresden china.
HELPS FOR THE HOME.
Recipes for Substantial and luxuries
Sauces, Salads, ruddlngs, Pies and Cakes
Useful Information for tho House
keeper "Trom Ellice Serena.
WBIITEjr TOR THE DISrATCHO
Below will be found some general recipes
of thoroughly tested reliability. I begin
with pineappls trifle, which is made as fol
lows: Select a ripe, swoet pineapple, pare and
chop In small pieces. Cover with two small
cupfuls of sugar and, set aside. Cover a
package of gelatine with cold water, let
stand two hours, and then dissolve with a
cupful of boiling water. Add to tho pine
apple with the juice of ono lemon and stir
tho mixturo on ice. "When it begins to stiffen
turn In thn fiothcd whites of six ec and
beat until creamy. Servo with cieam or
custard.
Salmon Salad.
Take medium-sized cucumbers, cut in half
and carefully scrape out the pulp. Fill w 1th
salmon picked in small flakes, and cover
with mayonnaise.
Tomato Salad.
"Wipe round, ripe tomatoes with a damp
cloth, hollow them out and mix with the
pulp some minced celery. Cover with
mayonnaise andrenll the tomatoes.
Mint Sauce.
Put four tablespoonfuls of chopped mint,
two tablespoonfuls of sugar and a quarter of
a pint of vinegar into a sauco boat. Let
stand an hounor tw o before serving, and add
a little saltand pepper.
Sponge Pudding.
Three eggs, one-half cupful sugar, 12 table
spoonfuls melted butter, two level tea
spoonfuls baking powder. Add flour enough
to make a stiff batter. Steam 1J hours.
Stuffed Egg Plant.
Boil a medium seized plant for SO minutes
the water should be boiling at the start. Cut
in half, scrape out the inside; without break
ing tho skin. Mash tho pulp, season with
salt, pepper andbutter. Fiji the skins, stew
with, oread crumbs and bake ten minutes.
Clear Lemon Pie.
Dissolve three tablespoonfuls of corn
starch in cold water. Add a pint and a half
of boiling water, and stir until it thickens,
when a dessert spoonful of butter may bo
added. "When It begins to cool stir in tho
grated rind and juice of two lemons, add 1
cupfuls of sugar. Lino pie tins with paste,
bako and fill with the mixture. Return to
the oven for a few minutes spread with a
meringue of the beaten whites of three egg3.
Thin Corn Cake.
One cupful of Indian meal, one-fourth tea
spoonful of salt, butter tho size of an egg,
one cupful and a half of boiling water, one
teaspoonful of sugar. Pour the boiling
water on the meal, sugar and salt. Beat
well, mix again and spread thin on buttered
tins. Bake 20 minutes.
Excellent Black Trait Cake.
One cupful butter and lard, one of granu
lated sugar, ono and one-half small cupfuls
milk, one and one-half cupfuls molasses, one
pound currants, one pound raisins, two cup
luls flour, tw o whole eggs diopped In, one
half teaspoonful each of mace and cloves,
two teaspoonfuls cinnamon, two of baking
powdor, one level teaspoonful salt, rind aim
juico of one-half lemon. Put all ingredi
ents in before mixing. Beat well. This
mixture may stand two hours before baking.
btir w nen about to put in pans.
Substitute for Cream.
Pour ono pint hot milk on the w ell-beaten
yolks of two eggs, and add ono teaspoonful
white sugar.
Cream Pie.
For one pie use yolk of two eggs, two cups
sweet cream, two tablespoonfuls Eugar,
beaten together. Bake in an under ciust
only.
Hints for the Housekeeper.
The best authorities say that it is wise to
regard milk as a raw lood. It should bo
boiled as soon as it comes into the house. It
is well known that disease germs may be
carried in milk, and boiling destroys them.
Keep butter covered tight when put in the
ico chest. It will not then absorb the odor
of any food lying near.
Is cooking rhubaib first scald with boiling
water, pour off, and add a little fresh water.
By this process much of the sour tasto will
be taken out, less sugar will be required,
and the flavor will be more pleasant.
Ip meat is wanted for itsell alone, and not
for soup, plunge into boiling watei, and salt
It When almost done.
Vegetaelfs should be put into fast boiling
water, salted and placed on the range when
they will contmus to boll rapidy until
tender.
For labels put a tablospoonful of brown
sugar into a quart of paste and it w ill fasten
them as securely to tin cans as to wood.
To remove paper labels from old bottles,
wet the face of the label with w ater and hold
it for an instant over any convenient flame.
The steam penetrates the label at once and
softens the paste.
To clean carpets, add a little turpentine to
a pail of hot w ater. Wring out a cloth or
sponge in it, wipe under the heavy piece of
furniture, and sw eep the rest of the caipet
with a broom dipped in tho water,
Air tho spaie bed regularly, even when
not in use, anil remove all covering except a
spread. Atmosphouc moisture will pene
trate all woolen fabrics.
To clean sieves quickly scrub them in hot
water and w ashing soda. Immerse several
times in clean boiliug water and shako dry.
Do not use soap.
To freshen leather chair Seats, rub them
with tho well-beaten whito of an egg.
Ihsect powder sprinkled about oedsteads
is likely to indicate to a guet the presence
of vermin, although such may not be tho
case. An invisible remedy, and one quite as
effective as a preventive, is strong brine.
"Wash the slats and cleats thoroughly
with it.
For. cleaning matting, damp corn meal, or
wheat bran sprinkled oer it is excellent.
"When tho matting l equires washing, use hot
milk and salt. This solution may also be
used on w illow goods.
Wash chamois leather in tepid w ater, using
soap freely. If the chamois is veiy much
soiled, give a sceondsuds. Kinso in tepid
water and squeeze dry do not wring. Hang
where it w ill dry readily, and snap and pull
until dry. Washing and pulling in this man
ner will make the leather soft as newj
Silver and plated articles that havo be
como dull or tarnished, , may bo easily
cleaned by immersing, tliem in hot water
(salted), in which potatoes havo been cooked.
Kub with a woolen rag and rinse In clear
water. Fermented potato water is still bet
ter for cleaning silver articles. Caraffes and
decanters are also made bright and clean by
the use of this water. llice Serena.
Household goods packed and stored,
su Hatch & Kevajt. 33 AVater st.
Amy
km
fWML
TKET pittsBUEG-,-, ' DISPATCH, '-SUNIiA
GREEN COSfPLEXIONS.
Shirley Dare Tells How to Get Kid of
a Spring Affliction.
TAKE HOT WATER AND TOAST,
And if Ton Cannot Get Coarse Bread, Buy a
little Common Bran.
RHUBARB AH) CHERRIES FOR TOMC
WIUTTEN FOB THE DISPATCH,
It isexquisite to find one's self out of
town again, with the budding of the lilacs
and the velvety changes in the tinting of
new leaves. The evergreens are the darker
shadings, against which the gauzy aerial
tones of the webs of young leaves are in
comparable in freshness and sunniness.
Eye and breath alike take deep draughts of
the ever new and pure delight. Nearer by
the knots of paper white narcissus in the
garden group themselves as if tempting
the hand to pluck and wear them; the flow
ering almond shines a pink cloud; the in
tense clear blue of the' periwinkle startles
one coming upon its blossoms in the grass;
calycand Missouri currant, favorites of
childhood and not less of maturer age, take
the winds with sweetness, and sunshine
brings out the delicious scent of the wall
flower, which blooms "a mas3 of red -and
gold fire," as some garden writer de
scribes it.
There are pink and blue forget-me-nots
blooming in a sheltered place, and roots of
old violets brought, long, long ago from
over sea, haunt the senses with their aroma.
There is much to be done of pruning and
training, and an epidemic of orchard
worms calls one up and out by 5 o'clock
mornings, with kerosene torch to burn them
out of house and home before they have
eaten the green off every bough, and left
apple trees as if a fire had run through
them.
"What Women "Want to Know.
At last time comes round for those talks
with correspondents, long promised, which
must do the work of a thousand private
letters. It isn't time for the freckle ques
tion to begin, but the present complaint
with girls appeare to be what they call
"greeny-brown complexions," for which
they demand some Wash or application to
bleach them white. The greeny-brown
is a defect no cosmetic from javelle water to
May dew off violet beds can relieve in the
slightest degree.
All treatment for this unpleasant com
plexion must be from within. It is of the
bile, bilious, and tends to worse things if
not removed before warm weather. I
never see a young woman with this livid
line or a spotty iaee without instinctive de
sire to take herin hand, with baths, hot herb
teas and tonics, fruit diet and outdoor exer
tion till she blooms like a wild azalea. For
these execrable complexions are susceptible
of becoming the finest with careful hygiene.
Their sensitiveness leads them to throw all
vicious matter to the surface and get rid of
it, while some smooth, faultless face, envy
of all the women about, will belong to a
stubborn diathesis which loads internal or
gans with chronic disorder.
Babies That Are Unlucky.
You will see women whose faces were
rough with pointed pimples like a
pincushion with pins wrong end up, coming
out, after their first baby, with complex
ions transparent as a flower. But the con
sequences are pretty hard on the baby,
which takes the vitiated blood from the
mother. "What that baby doesn't go through
with scald head and crusted tetter the first
two or three years of its life isn't worth
mentioning.
It is just as well for brides-elect to follow
the example of a New York beauty mar
ried last Easter, who rigorously took a
series of Turkish bath.3 during the winter
that her complexion should not shame the
pearl white luster of her wedding gown.
She rose from her communion the morning
of her bridal as pure in soul and body as
becomes one to whom marriage is a sacra
ment. And, talking about the purity of girls,
purity of blood has much to do with it in
preserving steadiness, clearness from fancies
and the foolish malady of love-sickness,
which is just as truly a malaise, a disorder
of the system, as any other biliouj symptom
laid down in the books.
The Hygienic Phase of Love-Sickness.
What we are pleased to call love-sick less
and the green sicknes3 of girls and boys is
an,effcct of bad nourishment and not-enough
outdoor exercise. The biliousness and the
languor it induces cause the lackadaisical
manner which offends so in young people.
Ask Sir Andrew Clarke, physician to Queen
Victoria, and anr other candid doctor who
studies diseasa in ita mental as well as its
physical aspects.
Men of no breeding are in the habit of
talking very cruelly" and ignorautly about
the ill-health of girls, and some doctors lend
themselves to the practice who ought to
know better. The ill-health of young per
sons arises almost solely from disordered
nutrition, caused by 'unsuitable diet and
want of open air. That this brings
iorwaru precocious uur ui me ai
feetional nature may be true, but it
is an effect just as bile breeds melancholy
and religious sadness in older people. The
world is not ruled by love dreams, even in
hysteric girls and boySj who are quite as
often victims of hysteria as girls when kept
from the air too much. Give, your girls
pursuits and tastes which will take them
out of doors as much as possible if you
would keep a host of repelling symptoms at
arm's length and secure cheeks of damask
instead ol greeny brown, the hue of incip
ient cholera, or its slow sister, hysteria. The
two diseases have one origin fermentation
instead of digestion.
How a Household Was Wrecked.
The old practice for biliousness in spring
used to be a rousing emetic or a big dose of
calomel, which left traces for the season in
a powerful weakness and taste of lead in
everything eaten. Cynthia, neatest and
sensiuiest ui uuuuiuciMiiiiuo, jiuis uer iaiin
in a mild dose of that herb mixture known
as Garfield tea, which is mostly senna, taken
with a small teaspoonful of epsora salts, "to
take off the gripe." Somebody told her of
the good effects of the salts with the tea, on
which, with a woman's usual reasoning, she
concluded that it would be safe to take a
larser dose than common, and kindly pre
scribed fQr several of the household besides.
The result, graphically narrated to the
ladies next morning, was a physical and
mental prostration to that degree, says
Cynthia. "Hooked at my petticoat and I
was too far gone to tell which way to get
into it," while John, the tall, stout furnace
man, who had been treated to a Medea's cup
overnight, was invisible for. two days, and
the smart hall boy in buttons asked to go
homej by which I suspect Cynthia had been
practicing on him in Tier generosity. It is
ungrateful to make fun, for wiser grown
Cynthia treated her ladies next morning to
a wineglass of herb decoction the color of
good tea, wnich cleared brains and com
plexions delightfully and helped them to
bear the April heat with some elasticity.
Hot Water for Indigestion.
In common with Dr. Benjamin Rush, of
a former generation, and many of the first
doctors in this, I have a great respect for
herb teas. Hot water in large dilution
quickens and intensifies the effect of the
principles of the herbs, and itself assists in
rousing perspiration and cleansing the
ducts of the body. If you have a good
specimen of a greenery-biliary patient,
begin with the hot water treatment for in
digestion. A pint of fresh water boiled
five minutes, just cooled enough to drink
without scalding, not sipped, but swallowed
as fast as comfortable half an hour before
each meal, is the fashionable prescription
for cleansing the digestive tract.
The water must be freshly boiled, and a
little lemon or orange juice or spoonful of
strong coffee may be added to disguise the
taste of plain water; If acidity exists a
'
MAY
17,
small teaspoonful of IphospbAte of soda, may
be added, making al very good mineral
water, or some of fheVnative salts may be
taken which taste so mildly bitter and leave
a signally sweet condition immediately after.
There is no use crying ub Sprudel or Carls
bad salts when our owncVnntry has so much
pleasanter salines and springs. This hot
draught of water washes out the foul accre
tions and by its heat stimulates the flow of
digestive fluid. Bank dyspeptics need it
before each meal continually, others want it
till good functions are restored, and it is a
good dose occasionally when the month
tastes bad in the morning.
Use of Trait and Lemonade.
Food is the best physic generally, as it is
taken in larger doses, wjth more regularity,
than medicine. Eruit is the great correc
tive of bile, but it needs quantity and
variety. One poor little orange of a morn
ing is justietter than nothing, but oranges
are often too sweet or not iuicy enough to be
of much use. A large glass of hot lemon
ade, with some very hard, crisp graham
toast, is all the breakfast a bilious girl often
can eat and relishes better than anything
else. All the lemonade she can drink
through the day is a capital thing;
"When appetite languishes live by drink
ing. Nature knows what she wants well
enough. For pimply girls and boys nothing
is better than a bunch of water cresses
dipped in lemon juice, eaten daily. Cress
ofany kind is good and uncooked cabbage,
shaved fine as broom straws, with mayon
naise or lemon dressing. If one wants to
make a meal of it with bread and butter, all
the better.
One must give appetite a good deal of
leeway in spring, contrary to the received
opinion that whatever tastes 'nice must be
injurious. Grape juice, if relished, is a
good liquid food and one can live and work
on a quart of it for two meals and eat a
hearty dinner with a relish and digestion
for the third. But most of the grape juice
sold is injurious, "being so sweet as to cause
fermentation inwardly, often with great dis
tress. Garden Rhubarb a Panacea. '
The juice of garden rhubarb, stewed in
earthenware and strained, dilnted with boil
ing water, sweetened and cooled till pleas
ant, is better than most of the wretched
grape juice abroad. It makes a spring
medicine such as the monks of old used to
take for the benefit of soul and body.
If a woman wants to keep in delightful
ease, with neither too much flesh nor too
little, she shouldmake the well cooked wheat
with beef juice and fruit her staple diet
Cooked long and slowly its loses all irri
tating quality, if it ever has any, and is
grateful as well as wholesome. It feed3
white teeth, strong, steady eyes, clear skin
and sound nerves. If you are boarding and
can't get it ask for it till you get it, and
make it the condition of remaining. Noth
ing in the way of society or service can
make up for insufficient breadstuff's or cereal
food improperly prepared. If you have an
exceedingly nice, obstinate hostess who is
persuaded in her own mind that a spoonful
of sticky oatmeal with thin milk and sugar
once a day is all the staff of life her board
ers need, and there is no choice of boarding
houses, get
A Packet of Clean Bran.
Another most delightful, tempting thing
for weak appetitite is the best canned cher
ries, white ones preferably, scalded in
porcelain and taken cold or hot. Cooked
cherries, with their delicious acids and the
touch of prussic acid from the stones, are
the gratefulest medicine nature ever left to
tempt mankind for their own good. The
juicedraihed from a freshly opened can and"
drunk by the glassful is both tonic and good
for the luncs.
Semi-fasting, two meals on fruit juice and
graham toast, will usually give good relish
for meat once a day. If not take a cup of
cracked wheat, cooked an hour, mixed with
a dessert spoonful of strong gravy or clear
beef extract stirred in. Eew things equal
this for strengthening properties, making
fresh blood and flesh. It is palatable,
moreover, unlike many messes recommended
for persons out of health. "With the wheat
well cooked other alteratives will soon be
given up and the green skin disappear with
them.
Broiled Steak Twice a Hay.
As soon as it can be relished good broiled
steak with the wheat should be eaten for
two meals daily at least. "Whenever symp
toms of biliousness return take to the acid
drink and toast again, with the hot water
before meals.
And take two tablespoonfuls night and
morning, any way you can coax it down in
soup, milk or coffee. It isn't worse than
talcing medicine, and does away with the
need of it. Don't ask me where yon can get
the bran, for I don't know. I have sought
it in city shops in vain. The only way is to
buy whole wheat meal and siftithe bran out,
until some wise man or woman sees the
chance to make a great deal of money by
selling neat little boxes of bran at three
prices to men and women for whom it is fhe
condition of ease, health and beauty.
All the animals in menageries suffer from
being fed white bread instead of coarse foods
and human beings are more dependent.
being more sensitive and nervous. It is
magical to see the change in vigor, spirit,
and complexion wrought by change to
proper food in this respect.
I tell you plainly, you may as well throw
away cosmetics unless you can get the food
which should accompany them.
Shirley Dake.
WANAMAXER CBACKS A JOKE.
He Wasn't Aware There Had Been a Drop
in Gold.
During President Harrison's call at the
Denver mint, the bullion room ras the last
place visited, says the Jiochj Mountain ATeics.
The party had gone hurriedly through the
other departments, but when they saw the
piles of massive silver bricks ready for free
coinage they lingered awhile. The men
were at work taking the molten metal from
the retort and pouring it into the molds,
which when cool represented about 511,000
each. Turning from the molds to the
bullion pile a huge gold brick weighing
1,711 ounces and worth about 25,000 was
discovered.
It caused agreatdealof eomment and John
"Wanamaker essayed the task of lifting it.
He was told that if he carried ita quarter of
a mile he could keep it. He didn't believe
lie cared that much for gold, and, after
lifting it, he replaced it on the top of the
Eile. The President asked him if it was
eavv.
"Trv it," said John.
"With a mighty effort, the President lifted
it a few inches, and, in setting it back,
down came the brick on the floor, missing
AVanamaker's toes by a mere trifle. Every
body laughed, and the Postmaster General
said:
"I knew there was a fall in silver, but
this is the first time I have seen a fall in
gold."
AN ODD INSCRIPTION.
A Work of Thackeray's Made Doubly Valu
able by the Fly Leaf.
Fall Mall Budget.
An uncut copy of Thackeray's "Virgin
ians," in the original boards, wa sold at
Sotheby's for. 30, the buyer being Mr.
Harvey, of Pall Mall. No doubt (says a
correspondent), ifs valne was immensely
enhanced by'the circumstance that it con
tained the following inscription in the haud
writing of the author:
In tho V. States and in the Queen's domin
ions All people have a" right to their opinions,
And many don't much relish "Tho Vir
ginians." Peruse my book, dear K.; and if you And it
A little to yonr tasto, 1 hopo you'll bind it.
Peter Rackham, Esqre., with the best re
gards of the Author.
"Dear E." however, refrained from bind
ing his author's presentation copy, much to
the joy of the modern collector.
The Handsomest Paper Going.
Tionesta Republican.
The PmsDUEo Dispatch, which is gobbled
up when it arrives hero llko flannel cakes
and maple syrup on a frosty morning, came
out yesterday In a new dress of type, which
now makes it not only tho best newspaper
but the handsomest that's agoing.
rVT
1891.
PIEACY OF A POEM.
How It Made a Minister a Wanderer
- on the Face of the Earth.
HE DIDN'T DO THE STEALING,
But Was. Accused of Authorship by His
Admiring Congregation.
CONFESSION OF THE REAL CULPRIT
wnlTTEX FOR THE DISPATCn.
I have been guilty of literary piracy, and
punishment has followed the crime. It al
ways does. The moral law which exacts
suffering as the price of sin has not the
elastic nature of an excise statute. It is en
forced. So there is nothing novel in this
case. Indeed it is made entirely common
place by the fact that the punishment has
fallen not upon me, the sinner, but upon
the Bev. Harold Fcnderson, a good man,
whom I respect, but shall 'endeavor Mn the
future to avoid.
"While I was the principal villain in this
affair, the primary fault is chargeable either
to Mrs. Betsy Bridges or to Dr. Lemuel
iBaker. I will not presume to say which
should bear the blame. Dr. Baker was
Betsyls physician, and Betsy died; and her
death was the beginning of our sorrow. The
sad event occurred in .the town of Pension
ville, O., where I was visiting some rela
tives a few months ago. Pensionville was
one of the few towns in the United States to
which my fame had not penetrated to any
great extent.
Only One Man Knew the Secret.
I think old Israel Bridges was the only
man in the place who knew that I made a
living by selling masterpieces of literature
at popular prices. My relatives had heard
reports to that effect, but they had only
scoffed and said: "Howdy Fielding write
anything? Good gracious, we knew him
when he was a little tow-headed, bow-legged
gawkl"
"When Israel Bridges was suddenly made
a widower he had an inspiration that some
TPeeplnff on His Shoulder,
obituary poetry in the Pensionville Weekly
Leadcr would soothe his sorrow, and he
came ;to ask me to write it. 1 rather liked
the old man, and would have been glad to
oblige him, but I can no more write poetry
than if I were the shade of Shakespeare in
a spiritualistic seance. I tried to convince
Mr. Bridges that I was not on speaking
termsvitn the muses, but he wouldn't hear
of it; and at last I had to consent. But I
bound him to absolute secrecy by a series of
vows that made him turn pale to the tip of
his cnin wmsKers.
The next day I struggled with the verses,
but they wouldn't come. I wrote only one,
and in that I was compelled to make Bridges
rhyme with religious in order to get the
proper sentiment into the lines. They did
not satisfy my fine critical instincts; so, in
the afternoon. I hunted up my grandmoth
er's scrap book and purloined a poem, which
with a few slight alterations would fit the
case of Mrs. Bridges or almost anybody else.
I sent these verses to th$ Leader, attaching
only the initials H. F.
The Poem Made a Hit.
They were printed on the day of the fun
eral, and were generally admitted to be the
most gratifying feature of the occasion.
They were the talk of the town, and many
women who had made things very uncom
fortable for Mrs. Bridges, during her life
were affected to tears by this poetic cata
logue of her virtues. "When they felt these
attacks of emotion coming on tney called
upon the Bev. Harold Fenderson and wept
on his shoulders because they attributed the
verses to him.
He was a modest and truthful man, and
at first he flatly denied the authorship of
this little gem; but the women wouldn't
believe him. There stood his initials in
cold type as a signature to the poem, and
the verses breathed forth all the tenderness
and good will which.characterized this man.
Possibly they may have been written by
some remote ancestor who had transmitted
Oh, for but a Single Bliyme!
his peculiar virtues to Fenderson. The
paper from which I copied them was yellow
with. age. At any rate, Fe'nderson was so
persistently accused of their authorship that
at last he only, shook his head and smiled
when they were mentioned. Meanwhile I
got out of town. Bridges kept my secret
well; I was not suspected.
No Peace for the Preacher.
Doubtless the Bev. Mr. Fenderson sup
posed that the obituary poem would soon
be forgotten, but it wasnX It made such
an impression upon some of the chronic in
valids of the town that they were impatient
to have an affectionate tribute of that sort
written about xtheniselves. Meanwhile the
esteem in which his flock (and especially
the ewe lambs thereof) held Mr. Fenderson
had been doubled by the recognition of his
literary genius. It had never been sus
pected before, and no wonder, for he was
the most unromantic, practical, matter-of-fact
man that I ever met. Instead of writ
ing obituary poetry for a bereaved family,
it was his wav to call and assure himself
that the children had enough to eat, and
somebody to wash their faces in the morning.
But after this dishonest effort of mine to con
sole Mr. Bridges with ink, the women discov
ered new evidences of a poetic tempera
ment in their beloved pastor every day.
Some of them wrote verses to him, and
asked his opinion of their efforts with such
flattering confidence in his literary gootl
taste that he could not find it in his heart to
withhold a praise, for the falsity of which
he asked forgivenness nightly. The col
umns of the Leader were crowded with
"Lines to H. F.," "Stanzas to H. F.,
"Thoughts on contemplating the genius of
H. F.," and outpourings of tho soul. Mr.
Fenderson could not quote poetry in his
sermons without being suspected of
having written it; and in a general
way he paid the penalty of genius
the genius which I had stolen from my
grandmother's scrapboqk.
Another Poem in Demand.
About three months after the death of
Mrs. Bridges the Bev. Mr. Fenderson's b
flock seemed in a fair way to suffer another
loss, and one that would be deeply felt.
Miss Martha Higgins, who had sung alto in
the choir for nearly 15 years, was very ill.
Mr. Fenderson was truly grieved at this
visitation. Miss Martha had always been
particularly prominent in the musical affairs
of the church, through the earnestness of
her endeavors and the fact that she was
never in the key. Her illness developed
unfavorable symptoms until at length Tier
condition became so serious that old Mr.
Higgins, her father, called upon Mr. Fen
derson, and with tears in his eyes warned
the pastor that another obituary poem
would be expected in about a week.
Mr. Fenderson perceived that he was in a
tight place. Laurels won from the muses
by fraud turn to chaplets of thorns. Hcwas
no more of a -poet than I am and was too
honest to take my path out of the difficulty.
He could only hope more earnestly that
Miss Martha would recover. On the con
trary; she grew worse steadily, and the
physician gave no encouragement. On the
second evening after Mr. Higgins' call, his
daughter's associates in the choir went to
ipl
Be Fled the Town.
the pastor's house to suggest that his verses
should be made of such a metre that they
could be sung to the tune of Miss Martha's
favorite hymn.
Surprised That His Hair Wasn't Gray.
"When they had gone Mr. Fenderson
seized a hand mirror, and was surprised to
find that his hair was not gray. He had at
tempted denial once more, but had been met
by a smiling confidence in his genius which
had fairly rendered him speechless. All
that night he paced the floor of his study,
trying to think of two words in the entire
language that rhymed with each other.
Early in the morning he called at the Hig
gins nouse and learned with two-fold sorrow
that Miss Martha was still failing.
He wandered up into the cemetery in the
afternoon and tried to get inspiration from
solemn contemplation of the epitaphs, but
they did not cheer him up. He passed an
other sleepless nigHt in his study, without
getting an idea, except that he should like
to write an obituary for the unknown H. F.
in hard, metallic prose. The next flay he
received a call from the editor of the Leader,
who simply visited to Bay that he went to
Eress at 1 p. M. every Thursday and couldn't
old the forms more than an hour even for
a poem by H. F. Mr. Fenderson felt that
his mind was breaking down under the
strain.
Precipitately Fled tho Town.
About 5 o'clock in the afternoon he
learned that Miss Martha was not expected
to survive the night; and at 9 in the even
ing he had packed up his small possessions
and had quietly fled the town. There was a
tremendous sensation when the news had
percolated through the channels of Pen
sionsville gossip. Israel Bridges, the
only man who knew the reason, had to
fasten his lips "with a clothespin in order to
keep his vow to me. In th" midst of all the
excitement the editor of the Leader got an
idea. He began to search old newspaper
fifes in musty garrets, and at last unearthed
the lines which had been the cause of all
the trouble. "With this proof in his hand,
he had no hesitation in publishing to the
world through the columns of the Leader,
the full story of the "piracy, disgrace and
flight of the Bev. Harold Fenderson."
Poor fellow, I have learned that he has
entered the foreign missionary field, and
departed for the scene of his labors. It is
so far away that, although Mr. Fenderson
is a very large, strong man, I have felt that
I could unburden my conscience by confes
sion. His sad story affects me even more
deeply because I learned from a late issue
of the Leader that Miss Martha has fully re
covered. . Howaed Fielding.
GAMES AT MARBIES.
How the Ancient Blng Taw and the Con
queror Are Played.
New York Herald.
The ancient "Ring Taw" and "The Con
queror" are among the best games to be
played with marbles; and, although simple,
are really of some merit. "King Taw" is
played with a circle marked out six inches
in diameter, inside another which is six feet
feet in diameter. The school boys plant each
a marble within the small circle, and then
stationing themselves on the edge of tho
larger cucle, about three feet away, they
snap consecutively at tho center marbles.
The boy who, with his own. shot, sends a
marble outside of the line, wins it and has
another chance. If a taw is struck by an
other taw, not only 13 the taw killed, bet its
owner surrenders to the killer all the mar
bles he may have won already.
AVhenall the marbles are shot from tho
larger circle, the players shoot from the spot
where their marbles stopped when struck.
If a taw stays in the smaller circle its player
is "out," and has to put into the ring all the
marbles he has won. When no marbles re
main in the ring, and all the taws are dead,
the game it over, and some boy's pocket" are
a good deal hravler than they were. "The
i;onnuoroi i it biikuwj iuujici ku.uc. ua
boy in this lays his marble on the ground,
anil another tries to break it by throwing
his own marble at It. If he does bieakit,
hismarble counts one, and his antagonist
has to put down another.
Something IJke Dr. Bothwell's Case.
There was a case at the Massachusetts
General Hospital some years ago of a person
who swallowed a large pin which lodged in
the trachea. This pin was taken out by Dr.
Bigelowby opening the trachea, but Dr.
Bigelow himself was very much disinclined
to take any credit to himself for the work,
because, he said, it was the merest accident
that saved the patient's life.
Lies' Photo Gallery.
Good work, low prices, prompt delivery,
10 and 12 Sixth street.
TISU
STOCK ENTIRELY NEW.
FINE WALL PAPER
AT ALL
WM. TRINKLE&CO., :
541 WOOD STREET, ,
J (BASE OT COIOIEUCE EU1LDI30.)
DEALERS IN "LINCRUSTA WALTON."
i
N. B. Our large sales are reducing our stock, and those who desire the advantage"
of selecting from a large stock of line new goods should come at once. J'
WM. TBXXKLE & CO.
ELECTRIC RAILWAYS
Are Knocking Odt Steam Transit
Wherever the Two' Compete.
SOME CURIOUS EEIIGIOUS IDEAS.
Cure of Nervous Diseases by the Application
of Strong Light.
THE BEST ILLraiHAXT FOR READOG
PBZFABED TOR THE DISPATCn.
"While a discussion is still being very ac
tively carried on as to whether electricity
can compete with steam in long distance
traction, electric motors are steadily gain
ing ground in a way that is very significant.
The controversy will soon have to shift to
some other points. One of the most re
markable of recent developments is the suc
cess of tho electric road between Minneapolis
and St. Fanl, and the announcement of the
steam railroad lines that they intend to
withdraw from competition with it for local
passenger traffic. These roads havo been
operating 20 years, while the electric road
did not begin- until last fall. Between
tho two cities tho single fare has been 30
cents, the round trip 50 cents, and then gen
erally there would be another 10 cents for
street cars, making an average of 60 cents-for
the wholo journey of 20 miles. The electric
road, however, Is making money at a 10-cent
fare, or 20 cents for the round trip, with frea
transfer at either end to the connecting
street car lines, so that virtually the lnter
urban trip of ten miles costs only 7 cents.
Moreover, the steam trains run on a stiff
schedule which a man has to time himself
by, whereas tho electric cars arc just as fio
quent as tho demand calls for and run on
quite short headway.
So enormous is the traffic they have built
up, the present motorcars are to be replaced
by larger ones, which will pnll tow cars, thus
giving trains practically every minute. Tho
line is doing wonders in uniting tho two
cities, and has added in a most striking man
ner to tho value of tho real estate lying
aiong its ten-mue route, xne saving on
fares is alone an irresistible inducement to
travel, and hence what the steam roads na e
not succeeded in doing in a. score of years
the new electric service ha accomplished in
half a dozen months, in effecting a practical
union of tho two communities.
The facts enumerated nbovo are attract
ing great attention out West, and more than
one large city Is getting ready to give its
suburbs electric rapid transit In the same
manner. Wnntever may bo the prejudice
that has been skillfully worked up against
electric traction in such places as Brooklyn,
the Western cities at least are fully alive to
the opportunities of a modern system whoso
cars are now running 400,000 miles a day in
this country, employ 10 000 men and carry
three-quarters of a billion of passengers
every year, without a single death yet re
corded from tho current. If this is the
record in street car travel, It is only fair to
reason that cross country tavel will also bo
safer and cheaper when electricity is adopted
Sacrcligious Lightning Bods.
The curious accusation of heresy has been
brought against a hardshell Baptist down
South in Georgia because ho has put a light
ning rod on his nice newhouse. It is argued
against him by those who are Arm in tho
faith that this Is resisting tho divine will,
and that if tho Lord wlshe3 to hit that house
with a thunderbolt he ought to be allowed to
do so, and not bo annoyed or frustrated by
such protective devices. One would have sup
posed that wo had got beyond thetimo when,
as in England, steamboats were denounced
as irreligious, because they made their way5,
'gainst wind and stream. Yet it is not sqj
long ago that similar objections were raised,
to the introduction of a steam railway Iny
Palestine, and still later objections havefc
been made and enforced against tho electric?,
light In churches because it blasphemed in,
some very terrible and very inexplicable)
manner. Ono curious question that has been,
raised, and has not yet.lt Is said, been settled
Is as to the propriety and efficacy of a conV
fession made by telephone. The penitent, IfJ
Is claimed, must be present la person to r&
ceive absolution from the priest. On the
other hand, the telephone is proving ext
tremely useful In enaming sick persons to?
participate In divine worship, and Is beingi
more and mora resorted to for their teneflB
as the apparatus becomes perfect.
Electric TJghts In Nervous Complaints,
The electric light is being used in Bussll
as a cure for nervous complaints. A prom
inent 3Isco w physician enumerates 11 cases
in which he has found this treatment re
markably successful. He employs an incan
descent lamp, which Is provided with a fuuf'
nel-shaped reflector of .6 cm. length, and.
2.3 cm. width. Tho reflector is turned dlj
rectly on the part of the body where pain ist )
felt. The application in cases of nervous)
headache lasts, for from 10 to 13 secondsr
other neuralgic pains aro treated for from
three to five, and sometimes oven for 10
minutes, until the patient feels a pleasant:
sensation of warmth. Surprisingresults are
said to have been obtained by the treat
ment.
Telegraph Extension Under Difficulties.
The successful extension of the telegraph
lino from Yunuan to 31 omein, on the borders
of Barman, has led to the suggestion that:
the officers engaged in the work shall receive
rewards on tho same scale as is accorded in
practice for the safe transmission of urgent
messages from the field of battle. How well
such awards are deserved i3 shown by tho
accounts of the conditions under which this
arduous enterprise was carried out. The
distance from Yunuan to 3Iomein is 530
miles, and the route lies through a moun
tainous and densely wooded country, where
frequently no trace of habitation occurs for
over 30 miles. The work of construc
tion was carried on by day under a blazing
sun, which caused intense thirst, while
by night the men were obliged to camp
out in the open and had to be con-
stantly on their guard against the attacks of
wolves and tigers. Three treacherous and
turbulent rivers, each of which was in fever
stricken localities, had to be crossed. The
waters of one of these rivers, the Salveen,
aremnddyand unwholesome, and are said
to be so deadly that the feet of men and
the hoofs of hordes rot and drop off from
contact w ith them. The officers and men of
the expedition crossed this river on rafts
constructed of coils of Ire, and reached tho
opposite bank only after a hard struggle.
The malaria was most virulent, andno fewer
than ten members of the party sneenmbed
to Its effects during the three clays occupied
in carrying the telegraph line across the
river.
The Ideal Artificial tight.
An oculist, in speaking of the merits of
the va jions kinds of light, says that most
persons llko the electric light better when it
Is new, as it is then whiter and more
brilliant than It is after being used for a few
weeks. lie considers this a mistake, as it 13
the dazzling white light that harms the eye,
and he enjoins the use of a light that has
changed to a pale yellow, which is the Ideal
color. Just as in noonday brightness,
human sight is not so clear and far-reaching
as at the yellow sunset, so a new incandefc
cent burner Is not so good for the eye a3 th
old one.
PRICES.
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t,Si'4S-iiJW.''. '".'.
.r - j-
t- atKiSatiiJ-:. Ai