FANCIES FORJHE FAIR.
Idem In Dre Itrform-ew Designs to Set
Offlleauty Ornament fnrtho Home
Suitings for Little Folks The Craze for
bpoons.
Tbe Ratioual Dress Society, of Loudon,
bM evolved and formulated two jokbi ai
the remit of its delibera
tions. One is called tbe
"Syrian," and it affected
by Lady Harbcrton, tbe
leading spirit lutlili new
movement. It has a di
vided skirt, which turns
up on the Inside and
fastens erotitidcncliktire,
like tbe skirts worn in
the llorkcloy Lyceum
Woman's OymnMlum, a
looie shirt ami open root,
and may bo worn witli
galteie or laced bootij
and this Is bow the Vis
countess llnrhertou looks
hi It, The other the
,iaplier differs fin m it
In tlmt tlio sUIrt Is not
confined, but flies out in
'J'hr tSjtiun.
pUIta, nnil In a pale gray Url nud black
velvet I!lon Jacket lier luUillitjr presents nn
appearuiico tnineiuiiig iiio " i
A new Turkish tea town, all in fawn
color, with a pal yellow skirt and golden
brown Jackei, with n sun nlin oi pale yel
low, shared honors at the great London fair
given under the ius
pices tit t lie Nulloimi
pttu League, witli a
neat, tluy Utile lulny
weather dress, with
boots nud Jit-Let, 'o
odo can deny that these
gowns ure rational and
renslblc; uo one would
blame burdened woman
If she cast olT her
shackles; no law cou!d
reach her, no judge con
demn; but thu probabil
ities are that the dress
will never becomo pop
ular except among the
enthusiasts, because the
woman herself would
not be comfortable in
it. There isn't a sweet
womanly womau on
Hanhaitin Island, says
m1i1 will flAlFn Tt-nH "
way in a gown like any Z7" Jcpansje.
of these illustrations without being self
conscious and altogether miserable. "Woman
may, aud doubtless will be, in the near
future known aud noted among the thought
rulers of the world, but her mightiest sov
ereignty lies ever in ber most feminine and
purely womanly attributes.
HIDHTG TIMFS HAVOC.
Featherweight Toupees for Capillary De
fects AhoTO One's Temples.
Very often ladies become aware that time
is beginning to leave unmistakable and un
pleasant traces, eitber
in patches of gray hair
or in thin places just
over each temple and
above tbe ear. The
hair may be wonder
fully abundant aud
still dark in color all
over the rest of the bead.
It is Justin these places
ffr that it begins to go very
.Squite grav. To meet
?fc I Philadelphia Jteooid.
Tjl-j")2 and to give a periecly
- T.nnrl.i-1 Yifiirr1-oocai
has brought out quite a novel kind of tou
pee, the construction of which may be seen
very clearly in the small illustration.
Mounted on a perfectly new kind oi
foundation, through which each single
hair springs up separate as though it were
: ... .I ..... -
the head, this wonderful
toupee is so ingeniously
constructed that it
shows no hard edge or
dark line against the
skin, bat has a few stray
hairs here and there on
tbe forehead, so that it
looks as if it must have grown there always,
he great secret of its successful adjustment
to tbe. iieid lies in the fact that it is made to
wort on a very light self-acting watch spring
of the fine possible description. Each
toupee.is made specially to measure for tbe
bead of tbe wearer, and it is of such a mere'
fe&tberweignt that no one can ever be con
scious of wearing it How the toupee looks
on its fair wearer is indicated iu tbe larger
illustration.
FBOH TWO GEEAT CITIES.
A Pretty Gown Seen In London and a Fine
Jacket From Paris,
Such a pretty gown was seen "between
showers" in tbe park last Sunday, says a
London correspond
ent It was of fawn
colored cashmere,
with a plain skirt,
which was embroi
dered as high as the
knees in small red
poppy flowers. A
little' ruche of red
silk went all round
inside of the skirt so
that only a glimpse
of tbe bright color
was seen now and
then. The short bod
ice was of the fawn
color, with a pretty
draped front of the
poppy-sprinkled ma
terial, outlined with
atmy ruche of red
silk, coming to a
point at th waist.
The sleeves were full
and of the plain stuff,
and with cuffs fin
ished with the same
crisp frilling of red. The bonnet to. match
this gay little gown was of fawn-colored
lace straw, w ith soft rows of red silk, most
artfully tied, resting on tbe crown, and
drooping a little over tbe hair in front
But, to my mind, tbe quaintest and prettiest
part pf this headgear was a looe "briale"
of poppies fringed from interlacing stems,
tbst pasted under the chin, and clung to
each side of the bonnet A more daring
frame for a pretty face cannot be imagined.
Pretty little red shoes and the glimpse of a
silk-envcred ankle quite fascinated one, and
a fawn-colored fist held an en tout cat of
tl IB
JmJ
-mrm
HT I. v -
'.
0m
fMM
uinMwk
red with a long amber handle carved in the
semblance of a bunch of wheat
The illustration shows a stylish jacket
which will be much worn in Paris during
the coming season, says the New York
Herald. It fits behind closely to the waist,
and is made of black bengaline silk. The
trimmiug consists of embroidery and jet
passementerie, and the batquci are of black
Chantilly lace.
NOVEL HOUSE OBNAMBrTT.
A TJierul Screen Made to Resemble the
Whoolof aBhlp.
A pretty screen it made In imitation of a
ship's wheel, says the Home and Art Maga
sine. It U shown Iu
the accompanying Il
lustration. The wood
U enameled white,
lid Is touched with
gold only on (lie
ipoko handle. Tlio
illlt Is tacked around
the clraumlercnce on
the back oi the wheel,
mid then drawn In
plaits to a lull rotolle In Hit center. Thsre
lira some other scrcoiu this aeaton that luvo
little bracket slieWm suspended from the
anils. Pockets made of oste leather and
fastened on the backs of slnylt or folding
screens are vry ulee and useful rsoeptaolea
fur sheet ruuilc, photograph!, pipers, clip,
plngi, etc.
TEE FAD FOn SPOOKS.
it
Has Hun From Tourists' Mementoes to
I'opnUrlty In boclety.
The latest fad Is tbe souvenir spoon.
Sorao genius etched or engraved a teaspoon
after a design or scene of local significance,
and In an incrodlblo short space of time all
of tbe larger cities bean to produce ipooni
which were calculated to catch tbe eye of
tourists. Pitttburg's Fort Pitt spoon it
already well known. Tbo fad has gone fur
ther, and now spoons play a part in social
life. Young ladies who know anything
about fancy work and cap use tbe
brush will soon bo making spoons in
largo nuuiDcrs. A "birthday spoon," says
tbe Xew Yort Herald, can lie made by
Tht Birthday Spoon,
the employment of colored ribbont. For
the handle take a strip of narrow 'blue rib
bon and gum it on one side. Wind it diag
onally around the handle until there are
four strips across the top. When tbe gum
is thoroughly dry mark your inscription on
the ribbon with a small brush. The letters
can be made in gold. Outline the panel and
fill in tbe background with gold color.
When this is dry you can make the scrolling
in abont the samo style we show, with a
hard pencil. The small ornament at tbe
end of tbe handle may be outlined ana filled
in with any color desired. For the bowl
tike a broad strip of silk ribbon and fray
tne edges. Gum tbis and stick it to tbe
bowl. In tbe center of tbis ribbon square
you can now gum a piece of white paper.
Draw the month in which the birthday oc
curs on this, with all the dates plainly
shown. Xow emphasize tbe particular day
and there will be no peed of further inscrip
tion. The background of this design is to
b treated just the same as that on the
handle.
TWO PfiETTY COSTUMES.
A Kovcl Corselet and a Charming Dinner
Gown Recently Created.
Suede colored crcpon with an embroidered
selvage is the material of tbe gown shown
herewith, with a corselet of green velvet on
the bodice, says Harper's Bazar. The skirt,
which is three yardi and a third wide, is
plain and clinging at the front and gathered
at tbe back; at the foot it is trimmed with
two narrow bias ruffles each htaded by an
embroidered band. The bodice is gathered
at tbe shoulders in front and at tbe
neck in tbe back; the fronts extend into
Crepoit Gown With V'liel CorultL
medium long basques, which are
bordered with embroidery; at the back
the basque is replaced by tbe slashed tabs of
tbe velvet corselet, the front of which la
short and does not met, but is connected' in
stead by ribbons straps with rosettes. Tbe
sleeves are full at both shoulder and wrist,
and are gathered to a small pointed cuff.
A most charming dinner gown is of
heavy gray-greea corded silk, perfectly
plain and princetse shape in tbe back, but
opening down the front over a petticoat of
rote-pink silt;, veiled with tlie loveliest
white lace. The bodice is cut cquare at tbe
y" Ir a fK
neck, with a, high Medici collar of green
lit. lined with pearl-embroidered luce.
The front of tbe bodice continued the effect
of the petticoat, being pink, covered with
lace, delicately draped. The upper sleeves
Batched .the gown itself, and were only half
long and quite loose) but they were under
sleeves of lace, very full, and clasped at tbe
wrist with bands of gre.cn illk, embroidered
with pearls.
DEESSIHG LITTLE 70LK3.
Washable Goods Most Desirable for Hoys
Designs for Girls.
By far the most desirable thing in small
boys' suits are those washable goods in two
pieces, the kilts and
jackets or tbe knee
panti and jackets,
sayt the Conntest
Annie da Hon
taign. Tbe chil
dren's outfitting
establishments get
them up so admira
bly and at the same
time inexpensively
that few peoplo
ever think of mak
ing them at home.
A veryjaunty lit
tle affair is the one
In the illustration.
It is of white duok.
tbo short pants
braided on the side
in washable sout
che, as is alio the
little jacket) with
this Is worn, linen
blouse with either
Embroidered lawn
tie or ono of white
ills: with two rows
of hemilltehlng or with fringed ends,
Dreucs lor small girls aro really entranc
ing In their ptotllncn. Ono for a lpsile of
II displayed in a London eliop window had
a full plain iklrtof now-mowii hay" color,
with a very deep bem, headed with flvr
rows of croab. white velvet The bodice was
out low, and without ileeve'i id wai edged
all round with three rows of the narrow
velvet, finlehlns on eseh shoulder with
dolnty little roiottoi. A creMii-sllk ililrred
enlrtofgulmpe vrtu worn under thli little
costume, with soft frllli of lace At the thntt
and on tbe full bishop sleeve". A rather
large shady flit olilp-lmt of the ofi greyish
green color corresponding with the diets,
The crown and broad brim ware covered
with dainty little rosettes of nurrow cream
coloured velvet, end made a very girlish
headpiece for tbe artletle.looklng gown,
FINE CHARLOTTE RUSSE,
llllloo Serena's Iteolpo for a Dainty Dessert
-Other Dishes That Will Tlolilo tho
Most Ztotldlous Folates Puddings,
Sautes and Creams.
rwniTTwr rou Tin DurArctt.j
To make fine charlotte russe, first make a
Urge thin iponge cake, taking care to bike
It in an oven sheet about an Inch thick.
When done and cooled, cut out a piece to
fit tbe bottom of a rounded dish four or five
inches deep, and then cut regular pieces to
fit around the sides. Into this pour n cream
prepared follows: Whip one pint sweet
cream, flavored with orange or vanilla, to a
stiff froth, and add to it the frothed whites
of two egg and a capful of pulverized
sugar. Stir all lightly together, pour upon
the cake until filled, set upon Ice, with a
pan turned over it until tbe cream is stifl
ened. A simple dessert of this sort is made by
laying lady fingers orsquares of sponge cake
around the sides of a lancydish, filling it
with whipped cream and putting it- in a
cool place to harden.
I append some general recipes that will
be found reliable:
Cream Gravy for Toast
For a family of six pour IK pints milk and
1 cup cream into a saucepan with a bait tea
spoonful salt Mix 1 large tabtcsooonful floor
with 3 of cold milk; stir into boiling milk, and
when thickened remove it from the Ore and
stir In tbe beaten yelk of one ecg. This Is cot
only nice for toast, but also for baked and
bolfed potatoes, asparagus, peas and string
beans.
Graham Puffs.
Beat one qnart sweet milk, add one quart
sifted flour together for ten minute?. Ada two
beaten eggs and one teaspoonful salt Half
this quantity is sufficient for a small laniily.
Mock Cherry Tie.
One-half cupfal ralslcj 'seeded and chopped
fine, one cupful cranberries cat in two, pinch
of salt one cupful sugar, one teaspoon vanilla,
one tablespoonful flour, one-half cupful boiling
water. Hake with two crusts.
Flanked Shad.
Nail tbe sbad to a white oak plank and place
It before a hot open fire until It 1 cooked. Tbe
acid in white oak (pvroligenoas) gives shad a
peculiar flavor which is very much liked. Serve
with mushroom sauce, parsley or egg sauce.
Bread Stuffing for Baked Fish.
Mix' with bread crums a little fat pork,
chopped fine,a tablespoonful of minced parsley,
the same quantity of minced onion, a piece of
butter large as a walnut a little powdered sage'
and sweet marjeram seasoning also of salt and
pepper. Put Into a pan for a few minutes and
stir over a hot fire. Remove and add one
beaten egg.
Rhubarb Padding-,
Butter a baking dlsn and cover the bottom
with thin slices of buttered bread. Add a laver
of rhubarb, cut in small piecos,and a few drops
of lemon juice. Strew thickly with angar, put
In another layer of bread.and so continue until
tbe dish is full. Cover well and bake for an
hour ana a half. Retnovo tbo cover for a few
minutes it sot brown enough. Serve with
sauca.
Apple Trifle
To a pint of hot applo sance, sweetened and
flavored and pressed throngh a sieve add two
tablespoonfnU of soaked gelatine. Stir until
aissoiveo. four into a wet moid ana set lu a
cold place. Serve with cream.
Uathed Eggs.
Into a stew-pan put a little good gravy, stock
or (trippings from roast meats of any kind.
When quite hot break in a number of eges and
stir until they become stilt Boajou with salt
and pepper.
Peach Custard.
Press through a sieve one-half dozen canned
peaches. Add tho beaten yelks of four eggsa
pint of milk and ono-half ennful of auirar.
Lice pie tins with rich paste, glaze with egg,
pour in the custard and bake without upper
crust Remove from oven, cover, with a
luerlngue of whites, and set lu tho oven again,
until tbe meringae Is set
Baked Custards.
Mix IK Pints new milk, one cup sweet cream,
four well-beaten eggs, one cupful white sugar,
one teaspoonful orange or lemon extract. Fill
small caps two-thirds fall, put them into a
baking pan containing hot water and let them
remain in tbe oren until tbe custard Is set
remembering that It will oontlnuo to cook for
a minute or two aftor being removed from the
oven.
Whipped Cream.
This Is palatablo served with fresh frutt
turning the cream from a mold upon a fancy
dish and surrounding with fruit
"Lemon Butter for Filling.
One-fonrtb.cupful of hot water, one scant
cupfnl of granulated sugar, ono large lemon,
Jnlct) and rind, a tiny bit of butter. Let come
to the boll, add one teasnoonlul cornstarch,
wet In very little water. Boll ten minutes, add
One well-beatea egg.
Lemoa Jelly Cake.
One-half cupful of butter, two of sugar, three
or four eggs beaten separatelr whites added
last Juice of halt a lemon, one cunful of mile,
three of flour, three level teaspoonfuls baking
powder.
Make cup cake after this recipe, using flour,
eggs and generous bait cupful of butter.
Good Cookies.
One-half cupful butter.ono of sugar, one egg,
one-half cupful of milk, spice to lasto and flour
to roll. Kllice SeeexA.
Clean Up.
As the good housewife proceeds to cleanse
and renovate the. family domicile, removing
tbe winter's accumulation of dust and im
purities at Ibis particular season, so should
every intelligent person cleanse and renovate
their internal person, and make it a health
ful habitation, for it'i tbe home of the soul.
There is nothing that will so quickly and
effectually accomplish tbis as a dose of St
Patrick's Pills. They not only physic, "but
clear the befogged mind and cleanse and
renovate the wbole system, making one feel
brand new. vrsu
Vf
A Certain .Degree of Adiposity 1b Good,
bat More Is Dangerous,
WHERE TO DEAW THE LI8B.
Figures That Grow .Oat or the Experience
of Insurance People.
PCOPEE AMOUNT OP FOOD CONSOfEO
rwsiTTE rou Tnx pisfatc-j.i .
When persons begin to "flesh up" they
not only feel, but look well, women espec
ially takintr on a roundness of 'outline
jrblchis pleasant to the eye. sets 'off the I
costumes and lends a certain dignity as well
as grace to their .general appearance and
bearing. If the increase of adiposity could
be kept at the first stage or embonpoint
there would be no risk in becoming a little
plump, but it cannot Unless In rare cases
where the individual understands how to
check and restain the tendency to corpu
lenoe within safe bounds, it steadily in
creases until it blots out altogether tbe
grace it brought at first
If thli were all there would be no hVrm
done, except to tho perional vanity, which
might be borne with equanimity, but obesity
leads to many different dlieaiei whloh may
terminate fatally. Tho fatty heart ii most
to be feared, as it Is slow, silent and often
quite uuiuepeoted in IU progrcis, and too
frequently the otuie of tbst "heart failure"
whloh results in ludden death, usually in
persons who, to the uupraetloed eye, have
evSry appearance of sound health, When
the circulation of the heart le Impeded by a
superabundance of fat Hi notion become
inegulur, nt timet contracting with dlfll
oulty, at others dilating under tlio prouure
oi tna irtrij-uineAui volume, ana theu be
comes diseuied, lieuae tlie'nunieroui deitbi
from heart lull ure. When a perion In the
prime of life suddenly drops dead through
abrupt oeieatlon of the heart' notion H li
llinoit always nbiirvuble that the vlotltn is
of jilolhorlp Imbli,
Home Dleaaioi to Be Dreaded.
Apoplexy is another dlieeie to which the
eorpulont are peoullerly liable should luah
show n Inclination to undue eomnolenoy,
no time should be lost in eouiultliig n pliyil
clan, ni In all.hurqitn probability ther have
paeied beyond the point when dletello
measures alone will Insure them Irom din
gur. The liver, in especial, shows a great
tendenoy to dlioaie produeed by too niupk
fat hence the lo-ealled "fatty liver."
Clabctoi ii a dleesie ofttio lobuleeof the
liver. It ii this portion of the liver whloh
makoi animal eugar. When wo feed too ex
oluelvcly upon foods whloh produce sugar,
thli part of liver becomes over aotlve and
forms more ingar than tbe system requires,
and tuui incites the kidneys to work ex
ceiilvMyto carry it off. Thti over ejolta
tion of the liver aud kineyi induces the dla.
botic condition, the lenoueqeie of which re
quires uo inslstenoe to the intelligent reader.
But of all diseases none are more dreaded
by humanity than "Bright' disease,"
whloh li nothing more nor less than
fatty disease of the kidneys, and ii caused
by long-eontinued over-indulgence in veget
able, saccharine and starchy foods whiah
pioduce fat Dropsy is not in itself a dis
ease, but only a symptom of disease in yltal
parts. Dropsy in tbe extremities indlostes
disease or tbe heart or kidneys, or both.
Dropsy in tbe abdominal cavity indicates
disease In the portal glands. There are nu
merous other lesser maladies caused directly
by obesity, such as gout, rheumatism and
anasmia that is, a morbid diminution of
the blood supply in the body. That Is Web
ster's definition of anemia more strlotly
weuicsiiy speaEing it is a cuange in tne
quality an impoverishment of the blood
caused by bad alimentation.
Not .Intended for Hypochondriacs.
I do not desire to alarm the obese reader,
but only to awaken him or her from that
easy state of indifference to corpulence
which is the outcome of tbe flattering
unction each is liable to lay to bis soul, "M
fat is hcaltbv fat" Do not thus deceive
yourself. No fat is healthy if allowed to ex
ceed a certain point Nothing is more fre
quently beard among the victims of corpu
lence than this remark: "Ify stoutness is
inherited, aud I cannot hope to escape my
fate. My parents suffered as I do, and in
their later years attained enormous, bulk, ns
I doubtless shall, however I may struggle
against it"
But that is nonsense. Obesity and a
tendency to obesity are two very different
things. The latter may be inherited, but
the lorraer cannot be. Tbe predisposition
to the family bane cornea, in some degree,
irom the transmission of weakened organs
and impaired vital forces to the offspring of
tbe lat, and therefore it may be admitted
that, thus lar, a tendency is inherited.
Obesity is more frequently the product of
habit than of heredity. Its great cause is
the eating of food that ferments in the
stomach. Of course there are certain articles
of food, hydrocarbons, that are more readily
converted Into adipose tissue than others
are; but, in a general way, every ounce of
vegetaDle food in excess of so much as can
readily be digested and assimilated has evil
consequences in' the direction of corpulence.
, We Digest With Oar Stomachs,
It must be remembered that ours is a
meat-eating race. The survival of tbe fittest
or the toughest under adverse conditions
in many generations has produced a
special adaptation for an exclusively vege
table diet iu some peoples, notablv the Hin
doos. Chinese and Japanese. Their pyloric
valves are permanently paralyzed, and the
rice they put into their helpless hut indiffer
ent stomachs is promptly passed along to
the duodenum and small intestines, where It
is digested, aud its nutritive elements are
properly assimilated. But we are not built
in mat way. uur pyloric valves work.
The stomach is a meat eating organ, but
when filled with a pylorus upon which it
can place any reliance, endeavors honestly
to do its duty upon whatever,is sboplied to
it. By the time, however, it 'has dealt with
the scattered fragments of meat in the or
dinary American meal, tho mass of vegeta
ble matter forced upon it has begun to fer
ment Volumes of carbonic acid gas rise
irom the aoid mass in whioh the process of
fermentation has been started by germs of
vinegary and alcoholic yeasts already estab
lished on the coats of the stomach, and,
stimulated by the natural animal heat,often
aided by deluges of hot liquids. The sen
sation of oppression In the stomach, pressure
upon the beart.suffooation and sour stomach
are the natural aud quickly experienced
consequents. Tbe gas evolved has a di
rectly toxio effect, in addition to its in
jurious pressure, and teuds to the speedy
imptirment of tbe funtlons of stomach,
lungs and heart Nature, as a measure of
prudent conservatism, builds around weak
ened organs sustaining and-protecting walls
of fat, so that there you have fairly started
the growth of corpulence. '
Toast Germs in the Blood.
But tbe evil bas only commeuced. When
the acid, gas-evolving heap of vegetable
matter is eventually allowed to escape,
through the pylorus it enters upon a tract
where it is sow, owing to its condition, a
potent factor for evil instead of healthiul
alimentation. The assimilative functions,
perverted by tbe toxio tflects of the. gases
involved, carry into the blood instead of
healtblul, , nutritive elements, the yeast
germs permeating the mass aud presenting
themselves' at every pojut Tbe life current
is vitiated, fibrinous clots impede tbe circu
lation, and all the tissues suffer through
lsck of proper nourishment ' That the most
serious constitutional conditions naturally
iollow in.this chain of causes and effects will
be rcadilv comnrehended. bnt the fgntn1
not be dwelt upon here, as this is not a gen-
ciai iremue upon iub onuses o unease, put
a specific direction or inquiry into whence
conies that particular malady lamiliarlv
known as fat
One of nature's processes has, alrejdv
been reverted, to lu the accumulation of
dlnau iluna afadbt the weakened heart
Another with theiolae conservative purpose
Is tbe infiltration offat into the muscultfr
tissue to take the pla)e of ill-nurtured and
wasted fibers, the depraved condition, of
which ii consequent upon tho deterioration
of the blood. When both are set going a
retroactive force ii exerted. These condi
tions in themselves tend to aggravated con
tinuance of the causes In which they had
their rise, aud by their further muscular
energy, depressing vital forces and en
feebling the nervous system, disincline the
Victim for such efforts as might at least re
tard, if not correct, his progressive increase
of fat. Eaoh ba lei ul effect In itsturu be-
oomes, a malefic cause in the cyclic evolution
of man- Into the monster physically only,
will of cobrse be understood.
What the Insurance Men Say.
How shall anyone know when he has en
tered upon that perilous progression toward
plethora? How shall he be satisfied that he
is not cozening himself with a dangerous
delusion when he fancies: "I am still nil
right: I have no need to reduce myself.
My fat Is healthy fatl"
Healthy fall If the wise men who make
up tbe mortality tables for the life insur
ance companies and, from the wealth oi their
experience, prescribe whnt are safe and
what are 'unsafe risks, know anything about
what they are doing, there is not much al
lowance to be made for fat upon a person
whose long continued existence Is probable
enough fpr insurance investment. Look at
thli schedule df proportionate weights to
heights adopted as the "standard table" by
tho Equitable Life Assurance Society:
Height ' Average weight
o feet,,... 115 pounds
S feet llnoh ,.,, 120 pounds
5 feet 2 Indies,.. 12a pounds
8 feet 8 Inches i.. 180 pounds
o feet f Indies 1M pounds
o fdet 0 Indies, 140 pounds
8 feet U Incites.... HI pounds
6 feet 7 Indies.., H5 pounds
8 feet dlnohei ,,,..,,,, .... U& pounds
6 feet o mohcl, ,,.,... 1JM pounds
6 feet lUlnclin 101 pounds
0 feot 11 Inclios ,,,.,, 1(1) (inuiule
0 teat,,.,,.,,,,.. , ,,,.,. 170 ponmls
0 feet i Ineli 175 pounds
II feet illnotios .,,,. 160 pounds
In praotloo, the allownnoo U Just n little
rnero liberal than It thoro nt forth, Hut the
eobedule li worth Iniortloiiai demonstrating
the professional Idea of how lean u really
healthy person should be.
The Amount of Pood Required.
The following rule may bo Accepted ni at
Wilt A safe onei View with suspicion any
peroeptiblo rapid looreaie of fat ami with
alarm the lymntomiof mal.nllmentiitlon,
already desorlbed, as they are the mre fore
runners of dlietie, one exaeulvely probable,
early manifestation of whloh will be In
crease of corpulence.
JUmember tint while the chemloi! con
stituents of tbo olaisol foods known as hy
dro-carbani are lueh ai put fat on most
rapidly all vegetable food tends to the tame
efleot la proportion to the quantity con
sumed aud the degree of iti proper ninmlla
tion. Limit the amount of food taken to
wbat nature really requires and you may af
ford to be Indifferent to your Imaginary
hereditary tendenoy to stoutness. A i'ronob,
statistician has ascertained that a human
being of either lex who it a moderate eater
and who lives to be 70 years old coniumei
during "the dayi of tbe years of his life" a
quantity of food which would fill 20 ordin
ary baggage oars. Almost everybody eats
far too much and too often. Eating is
made a matter of habit, not of neoeisity,
Ono takes dinner because the hour for doing
so has arrived oltener than to satisfy an hon
est and natural desire for nutrition. And
tbe weary stomach Is not allowed to rebel
against this uncalled-for gorging.
Tho Manufacture of an Appetite.
"Loss of appetite" Is viewed as a danger
ous iudlcator of threatened illness, aud
messurei for Its correction are taken at
once. Alcoholic stimulants, "tonics,"
"bitters," "pick me ups" and "bracers" In
infinite variety, and an appalling multitude
of pharmaceutical compounds all more or
less deadly are provided to iting the jaded
palate and spur the tired out stomach to
new exertion. Fiery condiments, spicy
sauces and piquant relishes help along the
conquest of nature. Aud as the outcome of
it alt tbe improper food and tbe excess of
it we get fat, and no wonder we do.
Frequent eating keeps the food constantly
passing over tbe absorbent surfaces uutil, I
Ilttio oy June, layer alter layer, tne surv
plusage. is deposited in fatty tissues. Stini'
ulants, especially malt i.iquors, tend to pro
duce tbe diseased condition of which onof
the commonest results is corpulencet'hut
that fact is so generally knowu and its causes
so well understood that it need not beAlwelt
upon here. Lest I may be supposeif to lay
too much stress upon the dangeref over
eating, let me quote in corroboration what
Dr. E. O. Fisher, of Washlngtati, say's in
his valuable pamphlet on "Plethjra."
Opinions From an Anthdrity.
"When the absorbent surfaAs of the intestines-can
select just tho amjbunt of nour
ishment needed to replacethe wear the
remainder is thrown off ay waste, and no
superfluous fat or. disease iaTormed. On tbe
other baud, when just iiJittle in excess of
the needs of the organist is selected by tbe
absorbent surface tbe t&cess is couvezted
Into fat, aud when at las no more fat can be
taken on it is retainedfto distend the blood
vessels and to be throW off in colds, ca
tarrh, pneumonia, consumption aud other
disorders due ,to tjfe condition of ple
thora. "When the who!, system has become
plethoric tho work oijthe heart is increased
audits action becomes difficult: hence tbe
.lungs accumulate disease, and are called on
for more eliort andibecome congested and in
flamed. The liver also enlarges from over
work, and the klbnoys suffer .-from tbe im
purities constantly passing, through them,
while gradually die surplusage is deposited
about.the muscles, until the entire body be
comes stiff and iitavy, as even very old per
sons need neves' bef they conform to the
lawi of heal th."J r ' Celia Logan.
A TEIG'
FOB THE T0PE3.
How to Make Whisky Float on the Top of a
Glass of Seltzer.
Bt. Louis Post- llspatcli.l
Here is a n at little trick that any club
man or every nay mortal who takes a
whisky and seltzer occa
sionally can try 'without
extra cost When the
waiter brings tho drink
be places tbe larger glass
over the small one contain
ing the whisky and theu
jt
TtvnsM the two together 1
as in Fig. 1, the balance
Fig. 1. of the performance is done
by the drinker.
Tbe seltzer U poured into me larger glass
to the desi
(ed
amount
Then, if the
smaller gluss
is deftly
and gently
whisky will
ilscd, the
emain in
it until It r
aches the
upper lurin
of the
it will
he top nf
water, when
spread out on
the seltzer as
n ig. 2,
and remain tbere unless
the glass is shaken or
moved. The explana
tion is mat tne. upeciuo
gravity of the cold
seltzsr is greater than
that of the whlsliy.an.d.
therefore, the lighter
liquid naturairy .
mains on top. The
trick must be done
slowly in order to be
Fig, S.
successful.
A Good Thtlpg for-the Grip.
itW fc
aVf. J
Jrom the Albaq.ucrq.qe yv, it. ) x)aUy gt,en , j
Several persons fhlirhlv ronmm.n
Chamberlain's Cough Eeuiedv as a remedy
for the grip, now eo preyo'lenl. E. W.
Kilbourne, the county surveyor, sav a
bottle of this remedy gaVe him relief. This
medicine Is prepired hy Chamberlain &
C., Des Maine, lows, nird u , having a
big" sale in tnis cjty, 3K-or wiB hy all
drusgists, W8tt
THE'AVENGER GREW.
A Dark Giant Who Was Thirstins for
Howard Fielding's Gore.
THE DESCRIPTIONS DID KOT TAtLT
And Each Person Who Set Zjei on Hlm.Had
a Worse! ale to Tell.
EACB OUTRAGE KaUKOWIJ AVEETt'D
iw&irrxir roa tub DisrATcn.i
"There's been a big colored man here
a-lookin' for you," said the First Office
Boy.
We have two office boys, the First to go
on errands and the Second to go and find out
why the First doesn't come back. We des
ignate them numerically because bqth are
named George.
"Wbat did the man want?"' I Inquired of
George tbe First.
"Dunno," be replied; "wouldn'A tell.
Said he'd call again. 'Taint any 'o my
business, bnt I advise you to be out. He's
the ugliest lookiq' feller I ever see."
George I, spoke in a tone full of solici
tude for my welfare, and he looked at me
with morbid curiosity, ei one might regard
a cow that was about to be-made the subjeot
of an experiment lu electrocution, I tried
Qiorgi f.'i Diierlplion of itu Avmptr,
to remember whether I had recently written
anything derogatory of ouroolored brethren,
but without recalling a word,
Import of a Simple Question,
"He wanted tn know If you were mar
ried," added George I. "I thought per
haps he had scruples agaluit making any
body n widow, so I said I gueesod you
were."
"If he comes again," said I, "tell him I'm
suspeoteu of bigamy and have fled the town.
What did the man look Ilk?"
"Well, be wasn't so very tall, but be was
brnaa shouldered and bad a band about tbe
size of a four-ounce glove. I'd say he'd
light at 200 pounds. Ije asked me when be
could find yon in, an' 1 laid you wouldn't
be here to-day."
I gave George I. a quarter and left tbe
office. About two hours later-1 was obliged
to return for some papers which I had for
gotten. I entered Cautiously, but encoun
tered nobody moreformidable tban George
IL, who remarket: "Fete Jackson's been
here again looklR' for you."
"You mean jfie colored man?"
"Yes, an'Jie's a whale. Must be b feet
tall. Heain't so very stout, but he's an
awful powerful lookln' man. .Must weigh
250 at least. He said If you'd make an ap
pointment, it wouldn't take over two
minutes to settle tbe business. He wanted
to know where you lived."
'.'You didn't tell him?" .
'"Kaw; I gave him an address about four
miles from your house. You've always used
toe well."
Tho Description of an Artist
I gave George II. half a dollar, and got
out of the office as quickly as possible. In
the obscurity of tbe hall I met a colored
man and I bad alreadv begun to repent of
my sins when x recognized him as the jani
tor's assistant. I went to an artist's studio
where I sometimes spend an hour or two
when peoplo whom I don't want to see are
likely to call at my office. The artist shook
my hand warmly.
"I'm glad to jee - yon alive," said be.
"There's been tbe biggest, bloodtbirstiest "
"You don't mean that he's tracked me
here!" I exclaimed. "Old man, I'm lost,"
"What's the matter? Have you been
writing him up ? Some prize fighter, I
suppose, that you've been using as a horri
ble example? That fellow's nearly seven
feet tall, and he'll weigh 300. I advise you
to carry a gun. Who is he?"
"I haven't any idea but he must be a re
markable man. According to tbe descrip
tion I get of him. he's grown a foot taller
and gained 100 pouqds in weight since be
came into my office at 9:30 o'clock this
morning."
The Typewriter's Description.
Evidently the studio was not a safe place
for me. I went home with gratitude in my
heart toward George IL for concealing my
At Detcribti by Gtorge.
place of residence. In-the morning I made
a flying visit to the office to get mv mail.
The young lady who attends to my large
correspondence, and sees that all mv letters
and manuscripts are misspelled and mis
directed, greeted roe with tbe announcement
that the Black Avenger had just done out
She described him to 'me again, Arcording
to her observations he wasn't so big a man
as I bad been led to expect, but the ex
pression of his face was, if possible, fierce.
He had askoJ that I should leave a
note informing him when I could be found.
I saw in the request a mearts of temporary
satvattan. I immediately wrote the note,
nnd made an appointment forTuesday of the
following week. The next day George II.
informed me that Pete had takeif the note
and would "come to time."
Then I began to prepare my defenses. I
decided that I should to n be called upon
to commit n Southern outrage. I was also
of tlio opinion that I couldn't do it satis
factory alone. The only other occupant
of my offiee, besides the boys, and the girl
who druius on the typewriter, was an aged
dealer in real estate a poor fellow with one
foot in the grave and the other on Staten
Island, where he lives in a house be has
never been able to sell. .
A Fact About, Staten Island.
By the way, speaking of that
charming suburb, I am told that
one of its advantages as a place
of residence (lor real estate dealers) is that
tbe wiekrd who die there are not obliged to
leave the island unless they pre "er to do so.
Thus fur, however, none have remained. '
But the old real estate dealer was turdlv
- (
the sMa'to mist in wholesale slaughter, so
I gave him notice to quit, and rented bit
desk to tbe sgeqt fpr a fire-arm factory, who
brought some fine samples ol his amicable
goods. I was espeeially pleased with the
appearance of a large, new gatllng gnn,
which tbe agent said could discharge COO
sholi a minute, and had been brought up
with strong race prejudices. Then I est
and listened for colored footsteps in the
hall, but they did not come.
By an obstruse process of reasoning I
had come to tbe conclusion that my mys
terious pursuer was the collector for a tailor
to whom I have the happiness to owe a bal
ance of 23, I have owed' it aJong-tiiua
without remorse. I am naturally of a mild
and forgiving spirit, but the sin of the
tailor is unpardonable. Were assault and
battery, I could overlook, but the man who
cuts me a pair oi bow-legged trousers Is be
yond merey. Many oi us can forget ordi
nary injuries, but we carry a perpetual club
for tbe man who has made us ridiculous.
Black Art of the Tailor.
I well remember that stoop-shouldered,
hump-backed coat and the pantaloons, which
I think he must have cut with a jig saw.
I also recall the arts which he employed to
make me accept them; how tbe electric light
went out and tbe gas burned with a pale,
sepulchral flame while I tried in vain to
see tbe outline of my flsjure In his unwashed
mirror. And all tbe time he swore that ho
could see tbe clothes perfectly well and that
there wasn't a' wrinkle In them.
Then I remember when I tried to wear'
the suit for tbe sake of economy how my
wlleenldl "Howdy, what makes" yeu'earry
one shoulder so much higher than the other.
You're positively getting one-sided."
And my friends used to come up behind
jno on the street and tell me that I was get
"lug round-shouldered, and that I looked
ten yean older in the last six mouths.
Brown, wbo strikes a 400-poand blow, used
to creep up behind mo nnd ilati me ou the
back in a way that dliplaoed my vltali,
while he shouted In my ear: "Stand up
straight, old man." there was something
about that suit of olothee which ga ve me the
perpetual attitude of a man sowing wood.
Could Kill Without a titmlin.
Pay for It? No, ilr, 1 have tranferred
ell my nroiiertv to mv wife and have In.
diioeif my friend to cover all my sources of
mioiiio wuu oogui aiiioiiinent proceedings.
And If any man representing that tailor
should call upon me, I felt that I conld turn
tlie-eatllog gun upon him without n qualm.
Meuuwhlle j kept getting Inoldeutul de
scriptions of the Black Avenger Irooi various
people the Janitor, the elevator boy and
others. No two of these descriptions agreed,
but I built my Ideal character from the most
terrible fenturei of all the stories,
And one da he oojled, George I, saw
him coming along the hall and he got into
tbe safe anil shut the door; the typewriter
girl fainted) the agent poured half a peck
of cartridges Into the Gatllng. Then tho
dreaded form eroiied the threshold. He
was a fine looking negro, somewhat above
the medium height, with an Intelligent ex-
Ready for ttt Slack Avtnger.
prejsio'n of countenance, and a courteous
bearing. He did not resemble bis descrip
tion. What mortal ever did. He ap
proached me, bowing respectfully.
"Mr. Fielding," said he, "our little
church is getting up a fair, and I want you,
sir, if you please, to-buy two tickets for
yourself and wife to help tbe good work
along." Howaud Fieldino.
- THE HI3TOBY OF TIGHT3.
In tbe Middle Age They Were the Proper
Costume for Both Sexes.
Apropos of tbe recent agitation against
tights on the stage in the Minnesota Legis
ture, a Paris newspaper gives some interest
ing facts as to tbe history of these garments.
It seems, according to this authority,
that tights ara only the ex
tremely ancient Gallic "Braies,"
or closely-fitting pantaloons, which
in the Middle Ages became tbe "haut-de-chausses"
worn by both sexes, nnd which,
according to a curious letter addressed by
Heloise to Abelard, were donned by the
nuns of the convent of the Paraclete, The
"haut-de-ehausses" 'for ladies were dis
carded when stockings came in, and they
were not heard of in France from tbe period
of the Reformation to that of the Revolu
tion. Under the Directorate there was a craze
for everything classic Greek and Banian
furniture, dinners after the manner of tbe
ancients, and ladies' costumes imitated from
designs on Etruscan vases and tbe paintings
at Pompeii were the delight of society in tie
gay city; but some of the sham antique
dresses were so perilously transparent in
texture that Grundyism "a la Parisienne"
resuscitated silk tights. Such a garment
was worn bv Madam Tallleo at a ball at
tho Salle Frascati. The tights were of
roseate hue, enriched with golden bangles
above and below the knee, nnd on both her
great tors tbe elegant citizeness wpre dia
mond rings, Tbe remainder of her attire
was a single robe of gauze, which floated in
the ambient air.
A Sore Care for EheamatUm.
I have personal knowledge of cases of
rheumatism in this vicinity that have been
immediately relieved and permanently
cured by Uhomberlaiu's Pain Bulni after
other remedies irere used without any bene
fit. I have been handling the Pain Balm
lor the past five years, nnd have never bad
any .customer exprens anything but words
of praise (or the medioine. It has been my
experience that any customer wbo once uses
Chamberlain' Paiu Balm will have nothing
else when again In need of such a medicine.
E. W. Potter, postmaster and druggist, Elnt
Creek, Neb. WSu
Myi
STOCK EFflEELY IEW.' '
FINE WALL PAPERl
AT ALL PRICES. V-
WM
TRINKLE
541 WOOD ST. ; !
Bank of Commerce Building, '
Dealers in "Lincrusta Walton.'VvL'
N. B. Our large aleg are reducing our stock, and those wbo,,de -sire,
the advantage, of selecting from 'a large stock of fine new gowk :'
Should come at once.
FASHIONS IN TREES;
The Old Etjlo Was to Maim Out of
All Semblancd to Katnrei
TWIGS OF HIST01MC JNTEEEST.
Karnes of Families Carved Upon the Trunk
and the Uranclies.
GK00PI.VO3 TO EE iNEAKEE EEAL1TI
WltlfTSX TOR TITS DISrATCU.
Everything ornamental about our person
or homes is subject to the freaks oi fashion,
and tree culture bows as obediently to tho
arbitrary laws of tbis fickle goddess as any
other ethical pursuit Fashion mars or im
proves the shape and growth of the trees
according to some unknown law of her own,
and the true or lalse standards of taste of
one generation leave monuments for suc
ceeding generations tn decipher. TJnllks
fashionable changes in dress and household
ornament, tree culture is more permanent,
nnd though the fashion in the trees may
change in one season, tbe relics of the dead
method cannot be so easily eradicated.
The topiary art of tree culture, wbteb
forced coulfers In various artificial shapes,
was a style of decoration very common 20
yean ago, and though those curiously
knotted trees and shrubs are no longer In
good tsste, relics of the barbarous practice
are still quite common. Iu all parts of the
oountry curiously dwarfed and knotted
treci, resembling overy Imaginable thing iu
nature, show the (fleet pi that art, and ipeak
volumes to the knowing. A curious fsshlon
atone time win to practice revorso budding
In trees, and to torture tbe limb and
branches to out nf the natural position that
one ould not tell the trunk Irom the limit.
Uy rrvenlng the position of tho buds tfcs
grafted llmbi would grow downward until
tliey readied the ground, where they were)
trimmed oO, Th top of tne trees wore oul
short, and the odd appearance ol the growth,
was such is to uiyMlly one, Hereral snob
ipeoluieue of quer (reus are still oxMtlng la
tills oountry, itml the visitor to them ex
plains the curious growth by a "Iruuk of
nature," but In reality It Is on of tbe uo
accountable "freaks or fashion," '-
The Vanhlon of To-Day,
Oue hn but to look around to-dsy to not
the prevsillng eras In tree oulture. Memo
rial unit genealogical trees have seized the!
popular taste, and they are now planted to
commemorate births, deaths and ureal events
in tbe life. Ojgantlo memorial trees aro
purchased at groat expense and then trans
planted at an additional cost equal to the?
value of the tree. Recently a gigantlo elm,
tree was transplanted frmn- the roadside to
Uractland cemetery, Uhioago, as a monument
to the memory of onset the founders of the)
cemetery, at a cost nf 13,000. The true roerao
ml,tree Is one whose roots are obtained from
soma celebrated tree growing In some place as s
coiumemorstlon of a great event.
Trees that ham htoo grown from tvlss ob
tained from liyron's grave or willows that bar
been propagated by sticks taken from tbtt
weeping willows on the island of Ht Helena
ara very common tn this country, and tbeir ex
tension seeips rapid that whole forests of
them will soon be flourishing. Tbe first weep
ing willow In America wa brought from Fepe'r)
celebrated borne at Twickenham, and it be
came tbe progenitor of all tbe weeping willows
In tbis country. A spray of tbe celebrated
weeping willow of tbe East was sent to tbe poes
in a box of figs, and It was stucK Into the oosy
ground on tbe banks of the Tbamcs. It grew
into a clgantlo. gnarled weeping willow, cele
brated the world over, and from one of Its
branches a young able de camp Si General Clin
ton took a small twig and brougbt It to Amer
ica to plant Wrapped op in oiled silk: tbe
precious twig passed tbrougb several exciting;
scenes, and wben tbe British left Boston tbe
young aide de camp gave tbe sDrig to Jobn
fitke Cnst!, a young American officer. It was
planted by him near hi bouse at ArllngtOD.Va.,
and became In time aa lordly a tree as its ances
tor at Twickenham. From tbi3 same tree hun
dreds of twigs have been taken and planted as
memorial trees, and tbe ancestry of tne prizes
are remembered as sacredly as if they vera
human beings.
The Genealogical Troes.
Tbe custom ot taking genealogical trees, and
keeping records of family names and events, is
one that appeals to the sentiment of many, and
It Is quits the fashion to select some Jounctreo
on the homestead, and mark out tbe different
heads of the famil j. Tbe name of each child
born is cat Into tbe bark of the limbs, and as
tbe tree grows and flourishes tho family in
creases in size. When a child leaves the borne
a branch from tbe limb with bSs name on It is
taken to other parts of the country, and
planted to represent tbe founding of a new
family. As the twig grows into a sapling, and
tbe sapling spreads into a strong trunt. the
date of tho first tree is ent into the bark of tbo
trunk, and also tbe date of tbe planting of the
new tree. As tbo brioches spread out lbs
name of each child born Is given to tbe limbs,
and so tbe genealogy of tbe family is continued
from one generation to another.
Tbe crazo for new and odd-looking trees for
park, street and garden bas been tbe means of
introducing many tropical and oriental trees
Into this country, and Chinese and Japanese
sbrubs and tree growths are being used exten
sively now where formerly only tbe stately oak,
elm and maple .were emploved. Instead of de
clining, the popularity of foreign products of
the nursery seems tn be increasing, and mora
trees and sbrubs of foreign ancestry will ba
planted this season tban ever before.
Our gardens are Tims undergoing a trans
formation, and one will soon have climpses ot
all tbe countries but our own in these artificial
parks and country homes. Hut nearly all of
tbese foreign trees revel in hot climates, and
tbey sorre only for ornamentation in the sum
mer time. Iu tbe winter tbey eotor the green
house. 2Tew methods of gronplng the trees will bo la
vogue tbis year, although indications of tbe
change have been apparent for tbe last half
dozen seasons. The native trees will be grouped
aud arranged according to tbe plans of nature,
and the old artificial methods will be abolished.
Efforts will be made to create forests such as
are found growing on tbe monntain sides, and
tbe groupings will be irregular. Tbere will be
no louscr any toleration nf an art of tree plant
ing which does nut find its countermart in na
ture. U. a WALTEBa.
a Grippe Preventive and Care.
All who suffer from the ravages of la
grippe can find immediate relief and im
provement by the use of oneof Aunt Baehel'a
Herb Pads. " They are made of herbs of well
known medicinal properties snd have been
found an unfailing preventive and cure by
thousands who have worn them. Sold by
drugguts. Price. 5- 00. Aunt Eachel
Pad Co., Passaic, N. J.
Lies' riioto Gallery.
Good work, low prices, prompt delivery,
10 and 12 Sixth street.
TXStt
f-e.
WM. TRINKLE & CO.-?fp
ffsR.