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THE HTTSBITRGr DISPATCH, SUNDAY. MARGH 29,- 1891. .
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THE PHOTOGRAPH IN LONDON.
Eociety Women Have Jlade It tho Fad of the
Da j Whole Iisailies Huns Upon the
"Walls Fashion Motions From European
Capitals.
rcoEur.srONDKXCK of the diefatch.1
IiOKDOX, Match 20.
ER photograph is a per
fect passion with the
smart London woman of
to-day. Many of them
spend a fourth of their
.pin money in the port
raiture of every possible
conceivable position of
themselves, their gowns,
their shoulders and their
heads. As a conse
quence, the photog
raphers' trade has in
creased enormously. In
deed, a company of over
amillionsterlingisbeing
formed for the express purpose of unifying
half a dozen of the studios to which the
Court ladies, and other women of the best
society, are in the habit of giving their
custom.
The photographer is now regarded as
necessary to the well-being of a fashion
able Euglish society, as the baker, the boot
maker and the dressmaker. Many mothers
have their children regularly photographed
on each birthday. Babies are photographed
uudc a few da vs after tlieir birth, and a copy
pasted iu the family Bible a valuable
record of any birthmark. A new gown is
lihotograpbed as a matter of course, on the
back of its wearer and so is a new hat In
fact, one ladv told me that she always had
each of the toilettes photographed, touched
up with color, and placed in an album on
her dressing table. All she had to do then,
when she wanted ber nlaid to put out her
things, was to indicate the number of the
picture.
Cuiious l'eriodical Family Groups.
The chotogranher is now sent for on all
occasions of family rejoicings. He photo
graphs the bride as she is tripping down the
steps to the carriage, preliminary to the
honeymoon; he photograDhs the wedding
breakfast at the moment when papa is wish
ing success to the happy pair; he photo
graphs the debutante as she looked on de
partinc'for her first ball, or on her way to
the Queen's drawing room; and he throws
hi' citnieia nu the sleeping form in the
coffin, -before it is consigned to th family
vault, i
These constant and continuous sui dupli
cations of the family, little Tommy and
Polly wearing short cli. let until th period
when Pauline got married and Tnomas be
came a sub-lieutenant of the Guards, be
come a little nauseating to the American
visitor, who does not care individually
whether Thomas breaks his neck or Pauline
runs away with her footman; but he has to
take.it id' nevertheless. In some houses the
whole of thi rooms are paneled with these
photographs of the family, and everywhere,
in almost eve-y corner, everv table, every
bookcase is ladn with the family and their
friends of all ages, sizes, rank!: and con
dition?. To have the arm and hand photo
graphed as thougn detached and lying on a
pillow of black velvet is a craze not un
known in America, but the English lady
decorates her parlor with such photographs.
A Curious Craze or Royalty.
The Princess of "Wales is responsible, J
am atraid, for the dreadful transposing of
photographs on cups, plates, saucers, and so
ou. A terrible tea service has lately been
adorned in this manner for Her Boyal
Jlighnes; a portrait of the Queen is on one
side of the teapot and that of the King of
Denmark on the other. The Prince of
"Wales appears on the milk jus:, and Prince
Collars and Cuffs reposes on the bottom of
the slop basin. The three Princesses, Vic
toria, Maud, and Louise of Fife are grouped
nrnuud the sugar basin, and had the baby
Fife lived, it would, doubtless, in due
course, have figured on the butter dish.
Groups composed of Prince George, the
Tecks, and other cousins, decorate the plates,
and even Prince Hcnrv of Battenberg is al-
saic
Lily Langtfji't Latest Ooums.
lowed to appeir, with the Duke of Teck,
Prince Christian, the Marauis of Lome,
Prince Edward of Sase-'iinar, and the
Duke ot Fife, on half a dozen eggcups. The
Pr ncess hers;l adorns a cake plate. The
aw ulncss ot this photograph-stained china
. D hardly be described.
1 suppose that, to parents, this photo
graphic craze has its gratifications. One lady
has arranged a dozen of her rooms with pan
el photographs, in six rows, all around the
walls. One room has only photographs of
herself, husband and children, on successive
birthdays, and on many other occasions.
Another room they are all bedrooms, by
the way has cousins of the family, uncles,
aunts and relations generally. There is yet
another room for intimate friends and ac-
Suaintauces, the next room celebrities of the
ay, the next room actresses, then dogs and
other domestic animals used in the house
hold. The music room has nothing but
singers and performers, while in the draw
ing room only photographs of young women
are permitted. This lady clls her house
"The Shadows," and, by the way, she
has one room only used by her
housekeeper, in which are the pho
tugraphs of the people that she
ued to know, but; who for some reason or
other, hate dropped out of her cognizance or
mquaiutauce. The most hideous tilings that
I have ever aecu, aud, of course, iu slavish
Wo
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win
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ilPAfiRvST9 . o.
imitation of the Princess of "Wales' tea-enps,
were eight sets of toilet articles, intended
fur the mansion now being furnished at
Clapham bv a retired merchant. His name
is Hitchcock, and on the jugs which are to
adorn his own particular bedroom are cabi
net photographs of Mrs. Hitchcock at 22,
and Mr. Hitchcock, taken from a daguerreo-
type, at the age of 31. Little Hitcbcocks
-ire engraved ou all the other tmugs. Ail
.lie sets are alike.
The Qaeen of Italy as Hostess.
The Queen of Italy's small and earlies in
Home are very popular this Lenten season.
They really are a sort of drawing-room
confined to the members of the court and her
intimate friends. Only half ceremonial is
observed, and etiquette is relaxed sufficiently
to permit the Queen to enjoy a general con
versation with her circle. She asks her
guests to play or sing or recite with the
same pretty persuasiveness as any other
hostess of the haute pommc. Her Majesty,
by the way, has been assiduous in her atten
tions to Prince Napoleon, and Cardinal
Mcrmillod took His Highness some violets
at the Queen's desire.
Queen Margaret of Italy is amusing her
sclt in Lent in making aTound of the prin
cipal sculpture studios in Borne. She spent
more than an hour in thi studio ot Ernesto
Bioudi the other morning and inspected
every detail of his life-size group represent
ing "The Golden Age," which is certainly
destined to rank among the finest works of
modern Italian artists. Her Majesty also
drove to the foundry of Nelli & Co., where
she was lavish in her praise of Franklin
Symons' colossal allegorical figure in bronze
entitled "America," which will be exhib
ited at the World's Fair in Chicago.
Count Herbert Bismarck, who was in
Borne for several days last week, gave
everything official a very wide berth. He
A Faille Drcst for Eprina.
dined with a number ol his English friends,
went to see the ballet, passed an evening at
the German bier halle on the Corso, lunched
with his particular friend, Donna Laura
Minghetti, and left for home with as little
ceremony as the 'most simple of simple
tourists.
Queen Natalie and Her Throne.
In society circles the latest exploit of that
irrepressible lady, Queen Natalie of Servia,
causes much amusement. The version given
at the Bussian Embassy at Berlin is quite
characteristic of Her ex-Majesty's tempera
ment. One of her favorite maids ot honor,
Stanka Bogitschevic, was married the other
day, and all Belgrade was on the qui vive
to see the spectacle. The chief pew of the
cathedial had been reserved and decorated
for the Queen, and all the officials of the
court were curious to witness how she would
take the arrangement. Their curiosity was
soon gratified, lor upon entering the edifice
Natalie marched quietly, but disdainfully,
past the pew, and without even bestowing a
glance in that direction, went right up to
the throne, where, according to etiquette,
only the King, her son, was entitled to sit.
With one vigorous crab of her royal right
hand she tore the dust covering off and
seated herself oil the throne with a grand
aud imperious air. Her action was as im
petuous as it was unexpected and it tvas un
expected audit evoked a storm ofapplause
from the hundreds ot persons in the church.
Some Iterlin Ienten Toilets.
Yellow and mauve striped silks aud yel
low satin with bouquets of violets are con
spicuous toilets at Lenten entertainments iu
Berlin. The Princess Bluchcr von "Wahl
statt introduced this "color combination first,
and now it is seen everywhere, though not
always with the same success, I counted
three or four such robes at the soiree of
the Countess Henckal von Donnersmarck
the other night. The young Princess of
Stolberg-Wernigerode wore a very hand
some toilet on that occasion white batiste,
almost hidden by masses of real lilies of the
valley. Countess Mira Doenhoff, a decided
blonde, looked very queer in a red velvet
gown and a coronet consisting of a broad
band of red velvet set with big diamonds.
Another toilette worn by a baroness,whosc
name I forget, was of "crushed" strawberry
satin, with two broad bands ot black satin,
embroidered with carnations and light-green
leaves, hanging down the sides, the bodice
cut square at the neck, aud trimmed like"
the skirt with black ostrich feathers round
the neck and sleeves. This was almost
"too, too" even for Berlin, judging by the
many comments I heard.
Hour the Empress or Germany Dresses.
There were some pretty toilettes seen at
the concert given in the White Hall of the
Boyal Castle in Berlin by the Empress last
week. The Kaiserin, as usual, wore a cos
tume of light blue, trimmed with silver.and
a diadem with blue ostrich feathers. Her
mistress of the ceremonies, the Countess
Brockdorff wore yellow silk. The Princess
ot Stolberg was attired in green velvet, and
Madame Herbette, wife of the French Am
bassador, wore a pink toilette of great
beauty.
The courtyard of the royal castle is in
variably very gay with military uniforms
at noon. Yesterday two different companies
of troops arrived at the same moment with
their band, one to return u number of fl-igs
and the other to relieve the watch. Inter
ested spectators ui the scene were the five
lis! Piflwi i
MliililwilH'
little royal princes, who stood at the win
dows of the Empress to view the spectacle.
At this moment one of the jockeys from the
royal stables rode into the courtyard
mounted upon one of the superb Arab
chargers recently presented to the Imperial
family by the Sultan .of Turkey. The
horse, on hearing the music of the band,
shied, throwing his rider to the ground.
Within a minute fonr of the royal boyi
stood around the prostrate man and offered
their services, while the Empress, with her
fifth son, came running after them. The
man fortunately was not hurt much beyond
a few bruises and a severe shaking, and he
speedily recovered especially when the
Empress handed him a bright gold piece to
compensate him for bis fright
An Exhibition of Dolls.
An International Dolls' Exhibition will
be held at Scheveningen-on-the-Ses, Hol
land, from July 4 to August L It will
be arranged in four distinct divisions. The
first will include dolls representing histor
ical or political personages, artists, and cel
ebrated actresses. The second, dolls repre
senting types of opera and dramatic figures.
The third, dolls wearing the costumes of all
nations. The fourth division, of all kinds
of play dolls.
A betrothal which has caused much com
ment here is that of Prince George of Wal
deck a mature bridigroom of 61 years to
Princess Louise of Schleswig. The latter,
it is true, is not herself one of the youngest
of women, and could scarcely, perhaps,
have expected to make a better match, bnt
it is regarded as very inconsiderate of
Prince George not to have waited, before
embarking upon bis matrimonial venture,
until his youngest daughter, aged 19, was
married. "As she is a very pretty girl, as
arc, indeed, all the Waldeck Princesses, the
patience of His Highness would prob
ably not have been too sorely tried.
A Society Item From Berlin.
It has been settled at last that Prince
Henry, of Prussia, the Emperor's brother,
will come to reside iu Berlin for the winter
seasons. The old courtiers and dignitaries,
who for some time past have enjoyed free
quarters in the Netherlands Palace adjoin
ing that of Kaiser Wilhelm I., have been
instructed to move by May 1. The old
house will then be thoroughly overhauled
and fitted up to suit the requirements of the
present time. This palace is connected by a
bridge with the adjoining one, and the state
music and dancing rooms of the latter will
be used by Prince Henry on special occa
sions. Berlin society will gladly welcome this
addition to its list of royal entertainers, as
for the past few seasons the Emperor has
stood single-handed among them. The
palace of Prince Albrecht is closed for good,
as is also that of Princes Alexander and
George, who now live together en Lower
Wilhelmstrasse. The Princess Frederick
Charles, since her marriage to Baron von
Wangenheim, is no longer "at home" to
society. However, she goes out a great
deal, and promises to repay all favors as
soon as her new mansion on Leipziger Platz
is finished. The son of the widow of the
"Bed Prince" lives in Potsdam the greater
part of bis time, when he is not abroad lor
the good of his health, as he is at present.
Prince Henry and his charming wife will,
therefore, be very welcome here.
Bextixju
NOTIONS IN FUBUMHING.
A Novel Way of Slaking the Student's Lamp
a Thing of Beauty.
A great deal of attention has been given
of late to whimsical furniture. The accom
panying sicetcn
was taken from a
beautiful home
in Philadelphia.
The student's
lamp is not'
usually consid
ered very orna
mental, but the
lady of this man
sion certainly
utilized it in a
pleasing manner.
The lamp is sup
posed to be use
ful, bnt the use
ful feature is not
j the first consider
ation in this in
stance. It is the
decorative qual
ity that is evi
dently first con
sidered. Green furni
ture will be all
the rage pres
ently in London.
The lady house
decorators are
going in for it largely. Their rooms are
filled with a large variety of taking novelties
in green wood. A Louis Seize screen like
the one sketched costs 3 guincas'In London.
It has half a dozen spaces for cabinets and
visites,'and its height is about 5 leet
THE GREEN CLOTH IN CHUBCH.
Poker Chips Found Their Way to the Col
lection Flate In Montana.
The church naturally took more or less of
the local Color in early times, says the Butte
City Miner, and the anomaly of a profes
sional gambler as a leading church member
might easily occur. A story goes that there
were-eeveral of these mep who were pretty
regular attendants at church in Last Chance
Gulch. As United States money was scarce
and gold dust was the ordinary medium of
exchange, it sometimes happened that the
knights of the green baize had no money
with them when tne plate went around.
On such occasions they would toss a faro
or poker chip into the dish, and the deacon
would go the next day and have the dust
weighed out in payment It was not un
common for amounts to range from $10 to
$20. It is said the knights are not so reck
less in these days, and that they are rarely
seen at church." Their tribe is not extinet,
but business with them is far from brisk.
Jay Gould's Autograph,
The signature of Jay Gould, though it is
good for almost any sum when attached to
the business end of a check, looks more
like the efforts of an inky-footed roach to
leave a memento cf himself than a result of
human activity. The New York bankers
can read it every time.
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THE MAN WE WANT.
Belles of the Capital Describe Their
Ideals For Husbands.
EASTERN YOUNG MEN LACK PDSH,
Society Chappies Amn.se but Kever Get
Serious Attention.
TWO FATHERS WHO AED PERFECT
tconnaspoNDEHCB or the dispatch.!
Washington, March 28. The man we
want. This is the subject that fills the
souls of the girls of to-day. We all expect to
marry at some time. We all have our man
pictured out, and though we may not have
seen him yet in flesh and blood, we know
just what he ought to be and how he ought
to look. At least this is so of most Wash
ington girls, and-the publication of my
talks with a number of them may bring
him to the front I called yesterday at the
home of the Secretary of Agriculture and
asked Miss Bust to tell me her ideal hus
band. She replied:
"I don't believe in ideals which have
neither form nor flesh. One woman, for in
stance, wants rvdomestic man, while another
wants one fond of society, and at their
wedding in most cases both have chosen the
direct opposite of what they thought to be
their ideals. In my opinion, a perfect hus
band should combine a
Love of Domesticity With Sociability.
He should be able and willing to takehis
part upon occasions in the innocent enjoy
ment of the social world and share his
wife's tastes, whether they be aomestie or
otherwise. Above all things he must have
intellect, and in these days of absorption in
money-getting, it is difficult to form an ideal
among men who seek first to know the value
of the father's bank account before risking
their heart and hand upon the daughter.
"Would you credit it," continued Miss
Busk, while indignation flashed from her
gentle eyes, "only a few days since a gentle
men acquaintance of whom I had held a
high opinion, confided to me that he had
urged a certain friend to devote himself to
a certain woman of wealth simply because
of her money.
"In the East, I think the young men lack
the energy and push which so largely char
acterize the men ot the West," Miss Bpsk
continned. "More especially in Washing
ton there seems to be a considerable propor
tion, both young and old, who having noth
ing wherewith to occupy their time, give
themselves up to an exclusively fashionable
existence that must inevitably tend to their
deterioration ot character. Their
Highest Aim Is to Kill Time
in as pleasant a manner as devoted attend
ance upon as many teas, dinners and recep
tions and the fascinations of club life will
permit Doubtless tbere are as many busy
workers here as elsewhere, but the number
is mostly confined to poor clerks in Govern
ment employ who can seldom afford to in
dulge in the diversions of the gay world
outside of the four walls of their daily
drudging. It is in fact now useless to look
for a hero of romance outside of the covers
of a novel, and my only ideals are bound in
pasteboard and not in flesh and blood."
The eldest daughter of the Chief Justice,
Miss Grace Fuller, will on Easter Monday
marry Mr. Archibald Brown, of Chicago,
and the ceremony at the historic old church
of St. John's will be followed by a large re
ception at the house. This event has long
been looked forward to with interest by the
fashionable world of the capital, who will
thus suffer the loss of another favorite.
"Have you then found your ideal?" I
asked of tha bride prospective.
She laughingly xeplied, "I have never
once in the past eveu considered the ques
tion, strange as such an assertion may
seem, for to tell the truth I have, never
associated myself with the thought of matri
mony, havine up to the present time felt
convinced that I should always live
A Ufe of Single Blessedness.
"I must confess that my change of views
has greatly surprised even myself, and I
can only account for it on the principle of
fatality! Doubtless, as I have neverformed
an ideal, I shall be all the happier in the
man of my choice, who, though differing
n many respects from the picture I would
have drawn, is all, and even more than my
wildest dreams could have fancied. I be
lieve it is Adelaide Proctor who says
Whom first we love, we seldom wed,' but
in my case lays the exception, and I con
sider myself especially tortunate in having
drawn a prize in the great matrimonial
lottery."
Miss Minnie Wanaraaker is one of the
most loved and universally admired daugh
ters of the Cabinet one is a tall, gracelul
blonde, with a sweet dignity of manner and
vivacity that wins for her friends wherever
she may go. She has enjoyed superior ad
vantages of seeing the world and learning to
know its people while dwelling beneath
tlieir own vine aud fig tree. One would
therefore think that the fair young Ameri
can would have formed for herself some
beau ideal of manhood into whose keeping
she would long ago have entrusted her
maiden heart
Her Ideals Change Rapidly.
Yet, strange to say, when I asked her to
give me a candid description of her ideal
husband, she confided to me the fact that in
all sincerity she had never formed one. "I
fear you will judge me verv fickle," she
added, "but to tell you the truth I find that
my fancy changes with every new acquaint
ance of trie masculine gender. This de
plorable fact goes to prove that in my day
dreams of a future state of matrimonial hap
piness there has been no definite picture
formed, and, in fact, I believe that the ro
mantic quality that marked the days of
'The Children of the Abbey' h.is entirely
died out in this more humdrum age.
"The younr people of the nineteenth cen
tury look more upon the practical side of
life thui is compatible with the develop
ment of the romance of our natures. Should
a young man propose to the lady of his love
in" the same extravagant style as that of
which we read with so much pleasure in the
old romances, he would surely get laughed
at for his pains, where a less humble and
more manly avowal ot his affection couched
in practical and plain terms would be re
ceived with attention, and in case of finding
a responsive cord would doubtless meet with
an acceptance equally unemotional and as
much to the point as though it had been
worded in the most poetical and flowing
terms."
Doesn't Like the Society Bean.
"It is deplorable, but true," she con
tinued, "that the majority of men one meets
in society are perlect nonentities, without
end or aim in life but to kill time in as
pleasant a manner as circumstances and
their fathers' generosity will permit, while
their brains are filled with nothing but the
latest gossip of the club or the newest styles
in neckties, and their accomplishments con
fined to their feet They are carpet knighi,
whose presence in a ballroom is au agree
able necessity, but beyond this of no interest
whatever. Of course there are exceptions.
"You ask me," Miss Wanamaker went
on, "if I would wed a foreigner. Most em
phatically, no! No American girl could
ever be contented bound to a man of such
entirely diverse views and differing on the
most essential points. A stranger to our
more advanced theories of mutual equality
could never hope to force his wife back into
the more slavish position from which Chris
tianity has raised her. I have seen numer
ous instances of international unions, and
in every case the American-bred wife dis
covers sooner or later that lack of congen
iality which mars all other joys and sows
the seed of future dissension."
Senator Kenna as the Perfect Stan.
Miss Margaret Eenna, daughter of the
brilliant Senator from West Virginia, un
like most yonng women, cares little for the
society of gentlemen, and her social duties
form but a secondary part in her busy life.
Possessing considerable artlstio talept. Miss
Kenna has endowed her home with numer
ous beautiful specimens ot her skill with
the brush, in addition to which she has con
tributed some interesting articles to Catholic
periodicals, and of late made a successful
debut in the newspaper world.
An ardent admirer of her father, she re
gards all other men as far inferior to his
standard in manly attributes and domestic
virtues, and though universally popular,
this daughter of the South has never yet
felt the divine essence of a love that will
overlook all faults of the man in the charmed
atmosphere of ideal hero. Passing sately
through the woods, she will in ail proba
bility at the end of the road meet with her
fate in one less perlect than her model, yet
to her eyes all that the most critical could
desire.
Jcannio Winston' Ideals.
The actress, Miss Jeannie Winston, has
had a wide experience with men in many
lands. She has views of her own about
them and-her talk on the subject is interest
ing. Said she: "In the first place there
can be no true marriage without that con
geniality of soul that begets mutual confi
dence. Brave, tender and true, he will be
courteous to all whether of high or low de
gree. Of women above all he should avoid
evil speaking, according to each the honor
due to her sex. What matter the color of
his eyes, so that they be true and possessed
of a latent fire. Tall, powerful and well
knit in form, mere beauty of feature is of
small account, especially as most classically
handsome men are marred by the fault of
vanity. A deep melodious voice is an im
portant attribute. A man of culture and
refinement, his companionship will prove an
nnfailing source of pleasure, and his influ
ence will naturally prove elevating. To be
truly wedded, he should be fitted to share
the domestic interests, yet by no means a
'Miss Nancy.'
Habits of Her Ideal Man.
"He may smoke in moderation and even
drink, so long as he confines his indulgence
to his own board. He should not be a fre
quenter oi clubs. He should give liberally
so far as his means will permit He should
be strong in his conviction yet liberal as
to the opinionsof others; trusting in his
wife and every ready to give his confidence
where his love has already been bestowed.
In a word, a husband should be a good
comrade, helpful and foud, believing and
true of heart This is my ideal husband
and the only one worthy the devotion of a
faithful wife. Nevertheless," she contin
ued. "I never expect to meet such an one."
Miss Maud Morrow, daughter of William
Morrow, late delegate to Congress from Cal
ifornia, when questioned upon her beau
ideal of a husband, exclaimed: "Just such
a man as my father! For he is perfect! So
manly and gentle withal 1 I could never be
satisfied with anyone who in my opinion
failed to come up to his standard, and I
must confess that my limited experience of
Washinzton beaux has not left a very
favorable impression upon me. There
seems to be so little energy and push in the
men of the East Iu our State a yonng
lellow cnows tnat ne must wore bis way up
if he wishes to succeed, and that if he fails
he has only himself to blame. Men make a
great mistake when they imagine that girls
enjoy nonsense."
Wants a Snperior Husband.
Among Senatorial circles there lives no
sweeter, fairer maid than Mabel Stewart,
youngest d.iuirhter of the prominent Nevada
Senator. "My husband," said Mabel, "must
be a man in every respect, superior to myself
one to whom I can look up and honor. I
do not care to marry one' who will indnlge
me as I have been all my life, but I would
prefer to stand somewhat in awe of him and
to feel that his will was stronger than my
own, though so governed by love that no
fear should be mingled with my affection. I
have never thought seriously of the subject,
as I have been too much absorbed in my
studies, but I am sure that I would never
admire a man possessed of neither strength
of character or that self-control that is so
sadly lacking in many of those who spend
their lives in an idle and wasteful indulg
ence in mere pleasure. I cannot understand
how anyone, especially a man, can be sat
isfied with going through life without end
or aim, or wnat girl would wish to marry
one for whom she lacked respect or looked
down upon as inferior to herself in either
mind or strength of character.'
"I have met with many nice young fel
lows in my trips to the West who I am
sure would make good husbands after they
had succeeded in attaining the business suc
cess lor which they were so earnestly work
ing, and devoting every moment to the ac
complishment of their purpose. I feel that
I have no right to judge Washington beanx
as yet." Miss Geuhdy, Jb,
A FAD Uf SINGING.
Muslo In Which Each Participant Repre
sents a Note.
.New York World.
Society is always starting some new game,
and the last invention is one that causes
quite as much amusement as used Mrs.
Jarley's wax works. A large framework is
erected and covered with white calico.
Across this five strips of black
material are sewn, representing
the lines of the musical staff,
Before the Curtain.
these being about eight inches apart. The
sign of the clef is then added and lines
to indicate the stem of each note. There
are boles in this strip placed at va- !
.....w u.al...,vv.o, uu .uiu5t mac uuira
pass the faces ot the performers. The
female performers stand on a raised plat
form behind the framework while the males
stand on the floor. A musical instrument
is played and each performer has to follow
as his turn comes. The chief difficulty con
sists in the performers being unable to keep
their risible faculties under control.
CHOCOLATE OUT OF FASHION.
London Women Are Going Hack to the Old
Reliable Tea.
Tall Mill Budget.J
Women are inveterate tea drinkers. And
no wonder tea is the cheapest and best
stimulant one can take. Many working
women diink it at every meal. They de
clare that they can't keep going without it.
West End dressmakers have taken to pro
vide afternoon tea (gratis) for their custom
ers. They find that it encourages trade.
By the way, chocolate seems to have gone
out of fashion. It's heavy stuff, and tends
to make one sleepy. Coffee gives me dys-
Eepsia. The best substitute for tea that I
ave come across yet is a peptonized
cocoa. .It is a gentle stimulant
and has a beautifully delicate
flavor. Consumptives and invalids candrink
it when they can drink nothing else. Pep
tonized milk Is capital stuff for delicate
youngsters.
v.
Behind the Scenes.
FKEAKS IN FASHION.
Howard Fielding Kirns Across Some
Animated Cariosities.
THE CELEBRATED LONG WAIST.
Striped Hair the Cage and Balloons Now
Go on the Shoulders.
SAEAO BEKSnARDT'S LATEST GOWN
1WBITTIX FOR THB DISFjLTCn.l
This is the day when every fashionable
woman in Pittsburg attends church, arrayed
more gorgeously than Solomon in all his
glory; but the contribution box cannot afford
a new coat of paint Therefore the fashion
able woman regards it with a cold, un
friendly stare, and thereby she is for once in
accord with her husband who accompanies
her to the house of worship. His own attire
excites little or no attention, but he can
breathe without being afraid ot bursting his
surcingle, which is more than bis wife can
do. He sees hundreds stare at her and he
reflects with pain that if every one of them
had to pass him SI 50 for an orchestra chair
to view that dress, he would be no more than
even on it
The approach of this beautiful religions
festival moves me to jot down a few fashion
notes which I have gathered in the course of
my strolls on Fifth avenue, New York. I
always" stroll there; I never ride. Colonel
Shepard's stages may be valuable reforma-
Tht Oirl With the Long Back.
tory institutions, but I am one of those
whom mere physical suffering can never
bring to a contrite mind. I shall try to re
port the result of my observations so plainly
that my fair readers outside of New York
will be able to deface the image iu which
they were created almost as well as if they
lived on the avenue.
Gives a Man a Choice.
This new fashion in waists seems to me a
good thing. It gives one his choice. This
impartial mode makes a woman look four
times as long-waisted behind as in front.
Those who like her one way can stand in
front of her; those who like her the other
way can stand behind her, and those who
don't like ber either way needn't look at
her. Was there ever snch an accommodat
ing fashion?
Bnt I must admit that to walk up the
avenue behind one of these waists is much
like visiting the freak department of a dime
museum. I ventured to hint as much to
my wife when she showed me her Easter
gown. I said in a gently critical tone: "My
dear, no animal but a whale ever had a back
as long as tnat.
Then she looked at me in that peculiar
way which she always assumes when it is
necessary to set me right about matters of
dress.
A Great Female Falling.
"So you prefer the buttle, do you?" she
said. How exhaustively characteristic of
the leminine mind which knows no golden
mean! She must have either a bustle in
the small of the back or a waist that drags
on the ground.
A woman to look just right in one of
these waists must be laced by machinery.
When Maude was encased in her Easter
gown she couldn't breathe hard enough to
move the second hand, of a gas meter not
even the petty larceny hand, that little one
on top which runs around any way, whether
the gas is burning or not. But she didn't
want to breathe. She was sustained by
something more necessary than air to a true
woman. She expressed it in her final an
swer to my criticism: "It isn't every wom
an who can make herself look like that"
I have seen several of these dresses in
millinery establishments. They are made
over skeleton wire dummies which are fort
unate enough to be destitute of internal
organs.
Harmony lu Colors.
But form is only a small part of dress
nowadays. Color is becoming more and
more bewildering all the time. There are
any quantity of new shades and no end of
new names for old shades. Harmony in
color has become a matter of prayerful con-
The Passing of the Winter Girt.
slderation. A woman's hat, and g!ov:s,and
hairpins, and handkerchief must be ol ex
actly the same shade as her dres3. So must
her stockines,,and her stationery, and her
cough medicine, and, in fact this harmony
in color is carried much farther than a mod
est man can follow It, even in print. The
idea lends Itself cheerfully to the purposes
of robbery. A milliner can now include so
many items in her hill that a man with heart
disease could never live to reach the total.
I nnj glad on some accounts that the
spring is come. There have been points
about winter wraps which I regard as
basely deceitful. These fluffy things which
the girls have been wearing around their
necks hardl; give n fellow a fair chance.
Doesn't Give a Man a Chance.
For instance, a girl approaches you on
the avenue. The lower part of her face is
concealed in a m.is.s of something which
looks like a nccklnce of infuriated cats.
She glances tin at you and shows you only
her eyes. You observe that her eye
brows are well executed and that the
shadow of the long dark lashes has not
been washed off by any accidental tears.
You see that the tip ot her nose is still
azreeably whitened with powder. But
whether the girl is really good-looking or
not you can't for the life of you make out
She'may have a profile as rugged as that of
the late" Mr. Crowley of Central Park, but
she doesn't show It
As the centle serin? comes on and winter
wraps come off facilities for observation Villi
.saniYMVsl
mBmJL
Tgm
improve. We shall see not only the arched
and painted eyebrows, the amorous
Egyptian-charcoal shadow, and the frosted
nose, but the carmine lips, and the dimple
(made by a patented electrical process) as
well. Iet us be thankful that the blessed
time when wo can see these things is here,
for there is nothing like, be'auty unadorned.
Fashionable Color for Hair.
So far. as I can judge the fashionable
color for hair continues to be that of old
time molasses candy slightly overdone. If
tbe gentle reader wno bas not tne advantage
of living in this center of fashion desires to
know whether ber hair is the proper shade
all she need do is to boll some molasses over
a slow fire, whiten it with n little soda, and
Notes b the Artist.
then wait till it begins to stick to the kettle
and smell badly and get streaked.
These stripes of a darker shade seem to be
essential. I walked up the avenue the other
day behind two ladies who were decidedly
in "the style. I couldn't help noticing that
their hair was exactly alike, evidently the
work of the sanfe bleachery. It must be a
great satisfaction to a woman to know that
the color of her hair is regulated by a really
competent authority. These two, for in
stance, when they passed a couple of natural
blondes, could" not veil their con
temptuous glances, for the poor girl's
tresses were in plain colors. A lesson from
I am a little new to the writing ol fash
ion letters, and perhaps I'm not putting
these valuable facts in a way to be most
useful to-women. I used to have doubts as
to whether fashion letters really served any
valuable purpose, but these idle question
ings were recently dispelled by a conversa
tion with our cook. I detected her in the
act of burning gas at $2 73 per 1,000 feet,
in the chilly March midnight with her feet
ou the kitchen range, and a paper in her
hand. She waS reading about 53,000 gowns
from "Paree."
If Bridget was going to get a new gown
it was only natural that she should wish to
know what other people were having. There
must be many others in the same need ot
usefull hints, and therefore I will add a
few notes gathered here and there. Sarah
Bernhardt is always notably well dressed.
Sarah is in comfortable circumstances and
can afford to buy many articles of personal
adornment which are beyond the reach of
the poor working girl.
I chanced to meet Sarah the other' morn
ing. She was visiting the Home for In
ebriates for the purpose of purchasing
snakes for her great scene in "Cleopatra."
She wore a gown consisting of a single silk
thread, the inside ol which was bored out
by a patented process. The fullness was
gathered in the back. Mrs. Gordon-Jones
is having ber teeth filled with pale pink to
match the shade of a new ball dresa which
is being designed by Burgess.
Balloons for the Shoulders.
The latest thing'in shoulder rpuffs is hy
drogen gas. It is much more stylish than
the wire springs which were formerly em
ployed to make the puffs stand, """hese
dainty little shonlder balloons now come
above the tips of the ears.
Tbe newest ornamentation now consists of
imitations of the smaller vegetables, such as
peas in the pod, beans, pumpkin blossoms,
etc. At a recent society wedding the bride's
maiden aunt wore a gown trimmed with
sprays of lettuce and slices of boiled egg.
Her resemblance to the ordinary commer
cial chicken salad was intended as a hint
that she was still young, but it did not de
ceive us. We have been iu the restaurant
business.
Mrs. Judge Van Pretzel will wear to-day
one of those narrow huts which are now so
much in style. It is made of yellow gauze
with a little point on top like a handle.
Perched upon her plump, round face, this
dainty hat looks delightfully like the cover
of an old-fashioned "punkt'n devil." These
rustic and reminiscent effects are much
sought after nowadays.
How aed Fielding.
THE KNOT-TYING BEC0BD.
Rev. Joseph J. White Has Married Thous
ands and lias Stopped Conntlns;.
Brooklyn bas a Methodist preacher who
would carry off the prize in a contest to de
cide who had married the most people.
Eev. Joseph J. White, of the Bedford Ave
nue Methodist Protestant Tabernacle, has
married so many, over 1,000 couples, that
he has ceased to keep count, and his modest
little house on South Third street, which is
In the Williamsburg district, has come to be
called Gretna Green. They come to him
from all over Long Island and New Jersey,
from New York City and tbe towns along
the Hudson, but he's entirely at a loss to
account for their selection of him.
They are mostly very voung people, and it
is a natural inference that they are marry
ing against the wishes ot their friends, or
have some other reason for concealment
He Is a tall, gray-haired man of CO, with a
benevolent t:e, and tbe idea has got abroad
that his marriages turn ont lucky. Some
times tin accountof their extreme youth he
is obliged to send them away, but, as a rule,
he believes it is better to marry them and
send them on their way rejoicing.
Will call at your residence with samples
and furnish estimates on furniture reuphols
tery. Haooh & Keenan,
su 33 Water street
m ,3v
STOCK ENTIRELY HEW".
FINE WALL PAPER!
AT ALL PRldES. .
WM
. TRINKLE & CO,
541 S00D ST. 511
Bank of Commerce Building,
DEALERS IN " LINCBUSTA WALTON."
mhW !
i ininfr A iHJfciirffii inn I in ?-""", . & ? "t.ntfishiBfe& c ?
CREEPING BEAUTIES
Tbe CiimLinj; Plants That Add So
Greatly to a Residence.
MERITS OF THE PEAIEIE KOSB.
American Ivy, Sweet-Scented Clematis and
Other Hies Tines.
PKtTTr AND HABDr PERENNIALS
IWKITTES roil THE DI3PATCILI
The climbing plants are nature's drapery,
and many of the fine old mansions of this
country owe their beauty and stateliness to
the tastefully arranged creepers, which have;
voluntarily draped all of the unsightly ob
jects with their delicately shaped and col
ored leaves and tendrils.' Bold and pic
turesque effects can be produced better with
the vines than with anything else in art or
nature. The ivy has won its way into the
hearts of all, and one must admire the lux
uriant wealth of its foliage, and the cool,
refreshing appearance of its great masses of
green.
In the Nothem States the old-fashioned
prairie rose still occupies a high position as
an ornamental climbing plant This plant
was first raised from the seeds of the wild
roses of Mohigan, which clamber over high
trees in the forests, and are remarkable for
the profusion of their beautiful double
flowers and their extreme hardiness and
luxuriance of growth. The vines will gro w
with but little care and need little shelter.
They simply require good soil, something to
run on, pruning and tying up once a year, and
nature will attend to the rest They will prob
ably give the Greatest amount of bean t? for the
least care of any vine: but tbey should be
planted more for their flowers tban lor their
foliate.
V Another Very Good Climber.
The Chinese wistaria Is similar In its habits
to the prarie rose, and it covers trellis work
with wonderful masses of foliage and blossoms.
A few good plants will completely cover the
side of aboassand produce at one time sev
eral hundred clusters of the most delicate blos
soms, of a tint between pearl and lilac each
bunch of bloom sbaped like that of a locust
tree, bnt eight inches to a font long, and most
gracefully pendant from branches just start
ing into tender green 1 ullage. Tbe wistaria is
a favorite for cottage decoration all over the
conntry, and especially in the Northern States,
owlnz to its hardiness and Inxnriant growth.
In the Middle States, strictly speaking; the
Japan honeysuckle and the sweet-scented cle
matis have largely taken the place of the wis
taria: but tbey are both a little tender, and
often need protection on the north and east
The Japan honeysuckle 'is the queen among
these vines, and produces an abundance, of
lovely delicate white and fawn colored blos
soms. Its foliace is rich and green, and the
flowers are blooming nearly tbe whole of sum
mer. For a change the sweet-scented clematis
is a magnificent honeysuckle, and its type of
flower Is grace and delicacy inelf. They are
scattered over the whole vine in midsummer,
and the perfume is the most fragrant and far
reaching of all flower odors.
It Dies In Finest Crimson.
Tbe Virginia creeper, or American ivy, as 18
is sometimes called, is one of the best draping:
vines noted for its rich foliage. It grows much
faster than tbe European ivy. and makes rich
and beautiful festoons ofTerdnrein summer. I
dying off In autumn, before the leaTes fall, in
finest crimson. Although a pretty sight on tbe
side of a house or cottage, probably Its greatest
effect is produced when trained.no among the
branches of an evercreen tree. Then tbe con- 1
trast in colors is very pictaresque, minding in
October therichest crimson witn tho brightest 1
green. The Virninla creeper is remarkable for I
its hardiness, and It will grow in tbe coldest
climate, and only asks to be planted to work
out its own problems of beauty without further
attention. For the decoration of stone walls,
churches and cottiges, this fine American
plant is unsurpassed.
The Dutchman's pipe and the trumpet creeper
are well-known Tines, and in tbe lazy summer
days tbey produce striking effects, with their
rich masses of green foliage and colored flow
ers. Of late years there have been many new
decorative vines Introduced in this country,
but very few of them equal and none surpass
the beautiful effects that can b produced by
many of these old standard vines, which have
been grown and cultivated almost from tbe
first in America. Tbey still retain tbelr popu
lar hold upon all lovers of trailinc Tines.
Helen Whaeburdon.
Flower and Plant Lore.
A collection of handy perennials is something
to be envied by all, and if one purchases the
plants tbe expense will not be very small.
Probably the best and most satisfactory way to
gather such a collection is to exchange roots
and cuttings with friends and neighbors. A
perennial plant is one of which tbe root lives in
a given climate more than two years. There
are many plants of which tbe roots are peren
nial, bnt they are often not hardy. In selecting
perennials, then, it sbonld be noted that hardi
ness Is essential for perfect satisfaction.
Among tbe perennials tnat mast attract uni
versal attention is the old Slebold's primrose,
which has broken out intoaereat number of
varieties, and offered for sale nndcrtbe various
names civen to them. In England this prim
rose is very popular, and it Is grown very ex
tensively botb by professionals and amateurs.
It is perfectly hardy, but it Is also grown in
pots for greenhouse and window decoration.
The typical plant produces abundances of flow
ers, varyine from white, tbroueh the palest
rose to deep purplish rose and magenta, with
lilac, lavender and other intermediate shades.
This is a native American flower, and at one
time in tbis conntry it was more popular than
to-day: then came a period of neglect, fol
lowed by great popularity in ngland,and then
a revival of It in tbis conntry. Thus many of
our finest plants are treated, and fashion dic
tates when their reign is over, and when they
are to be restored to their rights again.
Both Useful and Ornamental.
Another native plant that has received flat
tering commendation from the English public;
is tbe blood-colored alum root which is fonnd
in tbis conntry In rocky places from the South
ern mountains to tho hills of New England. It
has been used here chiefly for its medicinal
properties, although its bright, greenish flow
ers are very odd and attractive.
But one should not forget to mention tbe
hydrangeas at tbi3 time of the year, for though
a plant of comparatively recent introduction
it has won its way into popular favor. Instead
of growing up under good cultivation It
spreads out, and makes a bushy plant of ex
ceptional beauty. Some of tbe large flowering
heads havs a diameter of nearly a foot and
the single blossoms are more tban twice the
size of the ordinary ones. The flowers are
generally white with green edsings and shad
ing, but one of tbe novelties whicb is seen at
times is a veritable sky-blue hydrangea. This
sky-blue shading is said to be produced by
feeding tbe plant blue on swamp mnd or Iron
tillrfcs from a blacksmith's sbop. This may
be. butit is very rarely that tbe bine is a bright
and beautiful one. It is frequently a dark,
muddy bine, wbicb makes the plant look ugly.
The flowers are long lived, and will f rtquently
bloom during a greater part of the summer.
C S. Waltebs.
i
ijmim&i Ajc?JM
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