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THE PITTSBURG- DISPATCH, SUNDAY,. JANUART 4r-
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FANCIES FORTHE FAIR.
l'retty Effects In Millinery for the "Winter
now the Birds Are Disposed Of Contest
In Department In New York Odd and
Ends of Fashion.
"Warm effects will be among the dominat
ing features of winter millinery. Bearer,
astrakhan, Persian lamb and seal skin, with
chnrt nap furs, wil! be used both for trim
mine the larger and smaller hats and
tuques with muffs to match with sables' tails
or weasels' heads as the objective garniture.
Just at the present time the warm effects in
dulged by the mode in millinery
ecems to accord pre Terence to the Angola,
or Angora felts, a furry manufacture of its
kind, which may be a novelty, but which
.jpears very like our old acquaintance
long nap beaver under a new name. But,
whether beaver or a distinctive product of
lelt, it is in high favor both in Paris and
2sew York. The Angola felts are shown
(niri'il all over and vwith smooth crowns and j
IL-eced borderings on the brim, this border
ing generally being from 1J to 2 inches
wide. A verv elegant model in illustration
is of tan tint with smooth crown and lur bor
dered brim, the shape formed of a flat
lUque. with a voluted brim trimmed in
rijl purple elvet loops and twittering
lin ils nestling in front,
i We are making quite a change in the ar-).iti,'i-Dieiit
ol the little birds on our last huts
end we are Mire that no membeof the Au
dubon Societv can possibly object to this
coVct, says Ora Seaney, ti'e Parisian man
uiiiliner. A favorite way is to so volute
the brim that it has the appearance of;
eaves and the birds are so artistically ar
ranged as to present quite a bird-bome-like
and very contented picture. A strikingly
liesutiful hat of the last stvle was of golden
ire j in felt, very lnh at the back and with
the crimped Orim m the front and trimmed
with sea snallous. One was perched
on the e-treine idge of the
liat peering underneath, another was
npi ..ientlv climbing uu the sloping side,
another was poised lor flight from the back,
while two more were earnestly endeavoring
to gain entrance to the hat from the under
side of the brim, which would almost lead
one to imagine that a nest was hidden within
the crown. A bunch of blush cream velvet
roses were adjusted at the has of the crowu
nt the back and testing on the hair This is
one of the very few hats upon which we put
no black, but black is extensively used as a
trimmiug, appearing upon every color.
There seems to be no reason to believe
that American ladies will go to the extreme
of the mode in large hats. Compared with
the circumference of brim in the large hats
of the past, those we see now are indeed
verv large, but compared with the models
A -Veto Muff.
that caine out early in the season those now
teen are not ot so great circumference or so
large as those worn by the Parisian ele
gantes. It is hardly probable that hats
with brims seven inches deep in Irontif not
nil around, will be adopted before the
spring, when their need will become appar
ert for shading purposes. One of this sea
sons novelties are the velvets powdered over
with cut steel dots or these dots may be
termed nail heads. It is one of the favor
ites of the new millinery materials espec
ially turbans. A pretty turban of this
kind is gray with silver dots, trimmed with
grav Persian lamb and grav weasel's head.
"
The newest pins showa tendency to repre
sent a series of figures living after one an
other as if they had been expelled from the
mouth of a cornucopia. A flight of swal
lows, five in number, is set in gold aod
ornamented with brilliants. A long, slen
der gold wire connects the birdies. Under
neath the body of each is a small pin to
detain it in the way that its wearer wishes it
to go.
A few weeks since I accompanied a young
lady friend to a theater box-office to procure
tickets, writes Ella Wheeler Wilcox in the
2!ew York World. A lady whose name is
placed prominently upon Mr. Ward Mc
Allister's visiting list stepped out of her
carriage as we approached the theater and
preceded us to the window of the box-office.
Behind us came two other people and when
we,, had been five minutes in the place a
dozen persons vere in line waiting to pro
cure tickets.
Mine. Fashion settled herself in the win
dow frame, took out her handkerchief and
wiped a very ordinary looking nose leisure
ly, searched for her purse, refolded some
bills which had become wrinkled in one ot
its compartments, leaned her forearms in
the window and asked the young man in
attendance what chance she bad for obtain
ing good orchestra chairs for the next even
ing's performance. The young man replied
with the bored brevity of tone and cold
calmness of expression nsual witlf the box
office young man, and placed the plan of the
house belorc the lady.
She looked it over leisurely, commented
on the seats sold, indicated the seats she
would prefer if they were not already sold,
and finally to the immense reliet of the
crowd of waiting people behindjher, paid
for several tickets, and after again rearrang
ing her portemonnaie placed the tickets
within it Bui instead of moving out ot
line she leaned in the window again and be
gan questioning the bored young man about
the play. She had heard that some changes
were made in the cast. Was it true? No!
Well, bow could such an idea get into cir
culation? Had he not heard of it? Was
he quite sure? Well, she was so glad to
know the facts in the case.
She finally moved on, serenely uncon
scious that she had annoyed, irritated and
inconvenienced a dozen people by her sel
fish and inconsiderate actions. My dear
women, if you would like to have men give
you seals in public places begin by giving
one another seats. I think I could count on
the fingers of one band the women I have
Keen resign their places to more burdened or
tired sisters.
The most exquisite girdles are now in
fashion. Thev are large and are made to
Vencircle the hips rather than the waist. A
jrow of charming rose cameos fastened to-
gether with a gold link chain was seen over
the front of a deep green gown. Many are
copies of the mediaeval style.
The rain falls on the just and the unjust.
Little did Goodyear dream of the many uses
to which his valuable accidental discovery
would be put, and now a Boston lady has
said to this Government and this Govern
ment has given her a patent for so saying
and doing: "The manufacture of rubber
gossamer cloth has now reached the state of
perfection that enables me to construct a
waterproof hat impervious to moisture and
of great usefulness and is not an infringe
ment upon any patents heretofore granted."
I have been making and designing some of
these beautiful waterproof hats, writes Ora
Seaney, the Parisian man-milliner, and X
can assure you that a "long-felt want has
been well filled." These are mostly large
shapes, although some toques are produced
and the rnbber fabric bears a resemblance to
siik or short knap velvet, and they have the
velvet facinss which make them very be
coming. It is now possible for the fashion
able ladv to appear in rainy weather im
maculately costumed from head to foot in the
material that fears no kind of weather. The
plain gray and wine combines nicely with
the checks and the trimming is sewed on a
machine, inflated with air and secured to
the hat, which produces a very stylish effect.
w
Xo kind of ornamentation is as becoming
to the face as feather trimmings. It is al
ways in harmony with complexion, style of
"wearing the hair and tint of eyebrows, and
it furnishes a pretty setting for bangs at
necfc and forehead. Many of the new Medici
collars on house dresses are edged with the
becoming fluffiness.
It is stated that Vienna is about to lead
fashion in a way that may be of advantage-
to the millinery trade; as, once a start is
made, there is little doubt of its being imi
tated. The idea is that at balls the ladies
are to wear little bonnets to correspond with
their dresses. It would be of great assist
ance in the make-up of ladies who find it
difficult to adorn themselves becomingly by
the art of the hair dresser. The opportunity
for variety in elegant head ornamentation
by the aid of capotes, or small toques, is
temptingly set forth by due consideration of
the subject. By all means let the experi
ment be tried here, and give the patrons of
our coming balls a chance to display their
milliners' art. A bewitching little affair
lor just this purpose was of gold twisted
wire, entwined with yellow velvet forget-me-nots,
and a spray standing erect at the
back, writes Ora Seaney, -the Parisian man
milliner. This is so dainty and small that
it needs to be fastened to the coil and ap
pears but little more than an ornament for
the coiffure.
Almond taffy is the latest sweet that the
petted maids of fashion roll under their
tongues of an evening when a candy frolic
is under way. A celebrated French confec
tioner whose name is almost a household
word gave away the recipe. Here it is:
Boil together half a pint of water and a
pound of brown sugar for ten minntes,
Blanch and slice through the middle 1 oz.
of almond. Stir them in the syrup with 2
oz. of butter. Let it boil hard for ten min
utes. Pour on a well-buttered dish to the
thickness of half an inch.
A physician in Hew Xork, who is de
votedly fond of a pretty young wife, re
cently himself designed some garments for
her use this winter. Over the union gar
ment of silk or wool, which clothes one
from wrist to heel, is worn the well-fitting
corset or corset-waist, and theong hose are
drawn smoothly up and fastened to the gar
ters at the knees.
The novel garment in question as far down
as lh knee resembles the bifurcated skirt
except that it is luller below the yoke. At
the knee this resemblance ends, for Instead
of hanging like two useless bells with a
foot in each for clappers, each bait is
neatly gathered into a broad band, which is
closed with three or four small buttons at
the knee.
It is made so far of China silk for moder
ate weather, and of fine, soft woolen cloth
for cold weather, but as it reaches only a
little below the knee itis only half complete
iu itself.
A modification of the useless little gaiters
that reach only to the top of the boot and
leave the calf of the leg clad only in a thin
sljk stocking to the tender., mercies of flap
ping, wet skirts, comes iu quite opportunely
here. A long garter or legging, buttoned
on the outside, reaches Irom the dainty rub
ber to the band at the knes to which it is
fastened, mating practically one garment
of both. The beauty and finish of which
these articles are capable are perfectly sur
prisine. For drv. windv neather the f altpra
may be of black, tan or gray broadcloth,
wim lappea eages, ntteu to every curve of
the dainty limb and lined with flannel or
some fine fur for warmth.
Chain bracelets are more than ever the
fashion since the King and Queen of Italy
presented one to the Princess Victoria upon
her marriage to Prince Adolph of Schaum-berg-Lippe.
,
Bob Cook, the one-time stroke in the Yale
crew, has been in New York as one of the
judges in a most novel contest, writes Louis
N. Megargee in the Philadelphia Inquirer.
In Graroercy Square, near the house which
Samuel J. Tilden once occupied, is a fash
ionable seminary for young women, the
chief preceptress of which determined that
while it might not do for her to have the
charmers under her care indulge in football
matches or high jumps or pugilistic en
counters, yet that in order to be in the swim
it was necessary for them to enter in some
sort of a contest of at least a semi-athletic
character. With this end in view she had
tbem scientifically trained in "demeanor
and carriage," and in order to arouse a spirit
of emulation announced a competitive ex
hibition among ber pupils, and gained the
consent of Bob Cootc and General Horace
Porter, the famous after-dinner story teller,
and the Vice President of the Pullman
Parlor Car Company, to act as judges. I
suppose Porter was selected for the purpose
of making a speech upon this novel occa
sion, but Coot confessed to me, however,
that he felt somewhat embarrassed by the
anticipation ot the duties thrust upon him.
The judges had nothing to do with the ar
rangements of tbe contest. Theirs was sim
ply to look and decide. They found the
programme both novel and amusing, every
thing being done uader the direction of the
severe looking Minerva of tbe establish
ment. The young women were required first
to introduce one to the other in order to see
how gracefully they could perform that most
necessary duty. They gave exhibitions of
how they seated themselves in a chair, how
they entered and lelt the room, and then, be
fore the two horrid men, in order to show
the well, I don't exactly know what, the
curve or poise ot their figures or the grace
fulness of their movements they were each
obliged in turn to step upon a sofa and hang
a handkerchief on a nail In the wall placed
high above their heads.
Cook pledges me bis word that he did not
laugh at this performance. I suppose I
must believe him. Then after all this and a
lot of similar performances each young
woman in turn and there were over 40 of them
walked around the block while the judges
stood on the steps and shivered. Suddenly
the eyes of the one-time Yale oarsman rested
upon a young woman who, to use hii own
graphic language, "appeared to float through
the air." As he has probably told his wife
all abont the matter before this, I need not
hesitate to add that he further informed me
that this wonderfnl feminine creation was
the only one among her sisters who did not
have an air of self-consciousness; that, un
like nearly all of the gir! of her country,
she did not walk or shuffle from the knees,
but gracefully strode forward with a full
iwing from the hips like her English sister;
rather that she didn't appear to walk at all,
but seemed to glide in the perfection of
grace. '
"That's the winner," said Cook, pointing
toward her.
"Bight you are," said General Porter, and
thus the matter was decided.
Now, where do you suppose sho hailed
from? Let the girls of the East hide their
diminished feet and no longer laugh at the
awkwardness and uncouthness of the big
feet of the beanties of the West, She was
born under one of the new stars in the con
stellation of the Union. She lives in Idaho,
and her name is well, that I promised not
to tell.
Looking out in one' way it may be an
nounced that we are at once the most chiv
alric and the worst mannered nation in the
world. Too much independence of consti-
A Pretty Winter Bat.
tution has resulted in too much independ
ence of manner, and there is very slight in
clination to respect either illess or old age.
There is in' the household of the Shah
one great lady who has been the sun and
center of the female hierarchy of Persia for
over 30 years, says Figaro. This is Anizeh
Dooulet, a woman of lowly origin, bright,
intelligent and courageous, who has always
been, and still remains, tbe 'Shah's favorite
wife. Contrary to her ambitious predecessor,
she has never tried to meddle in politics,
but has made it her one object in life to
please and attach her royal lover and to
make him forget the cares of state. In this
she has succeeded to such a degree that even
now. at the age of nearly 0, she reigns su
preme over the heart of Kasr-ed-Din.
After her come the Shah's four legitimate
wives, and round them, again, circle a
cluster of lesser lights. All these ladies are
provided for by the ruler of the Persians,
and their "salaiies" vary according to their
master's estimation of them. Anizeh
Uooulet has 12,500 a year, the royal
princesses have each 1,250, the rest are paid
at the rate of payment to generals in the
army, "with this difference that the women
get the money, while the generals only ex
pect to get it"
A new figure introduced into the cotillon
is to have the gentlemen armed with toy
-foils, spiked with buttons in the shape of
powder puffs, covered with powder, and to
have them fence a bit with their partners
before the waltz.
Velvety white suede kid gloves are worn
with the charming dancing toilets of whitt
Lyons tulle, white chiffon muslin wronght
with petit pois dots, or tinted Brussels net
over satin, says the New York Evening
Post. Pale gray suede gloves in lovely
tints are necessary for the countless gray and
dove-colored toilets now worn of tulle, vel
vet, brocade, silk, and fine wool. The slip
pers invariably match the gloves when not
made to order, of the dress material, and are
finished with an oval buckle of French
brilliants. The fan is of ostrich or mara
bout feathers, with a handle or pearl or
onyx, set with semi-precious jewels.
One of the French bonnets for a young
lady is a small low toque shape, with soft
folds of pale velvet over the crown and a
narrow puff of fur at the edge. A curb
takes the place of strings, and sometimes the
bonnet is trimmed with a standing garni
ture it the back of peacocks' feathers min
gled with lace.
There is a certain night school in this
town, says the New York Sun, where the
eirlfare dismissed from five to ten minutes
in advance of tbe boys. The principal ex
plains that formerly both sexes were ' dis-
A New Theater Bodice.
missed at the same time. Complaints then
came that the girls were very late in getting
home. Investigation showed that the boys
used to delay the girls out in the street, and
often couples would go and take a walk.
Parents naturally objected to this, and the
experiment was tried of giving the young
women several minutes' headway.
"That relieves us of responsibility," said
the principal. "It 'the girls wait in the
street we cannot help it I think, howevei,
that they don't, for sinco tbe new rule was
adopted we have not heard that anything is
going wrong."
The engagement bangle, or bracelet, is a
pair of bangles connected with an invisible
and secret spring and studded with balls of
gold, set with jewels.
.
There has been some legislation in regard
to tbe appropriation of color in matters of
dress lor the new year, rays Meg, in the Phil
adelphia Times: We should now base our
wardrobe on two colors only, but as many
shades of these colors as we like are per
mitted. Of these, one should match the
hair, tbe other the eyes. Scientifically cor
rect, maybe, bnt we think we have learned
a game worth two of that. Those of us who
are conscions of having hairand eyes of a
good color may consent to match our street
gowns with them, but in tbe house we shall
continue to study light, shade and surround
in it. We shall choose some of the various
tints that bring out the best and cover the I
worst in the coloring or shapeof our faces. J
THE QUEEN OF SHEBA
In All Her Glory Was Not Arrayed
Like Unto One of These.
JEWELS LIKE RADIANT STABS
And Visions of Loveliness In Barest BilKs
' and'featins.
TBE SOCIAL SEASON AT WASHINGTON
rCOESISrONDIKCE bPTUZ DISPATCH. 1
Washington, Jan. 3. The social sea
son which opened with January 1, is in full
blast. Dinners and receptions will be given
by the score every week from now on until
Lent, and money is flowing like water Jin
the spring.
Washington has never seen more elegant
dresses than are worn here this winter. Most
of the noted women got new wardrobes last
summer from Paris and there are acres of
new velvets and satins and diamonds and
pearls and gold galore. I can't estimate
the value -of the diamonds which will be
worn at the Diplomatic reception at the
White House. On this occasion the most
magnificent dressing is invariably to be seen.
The invitations are limited to a compara
tively small number and an a natural se
quence everyone so bidden issnre to attend.
And should it so chance that Mrs. Morton,
Mrs. Leiter, Mrs. Leland Stanford, Mrs.
Btockbridge, Mrs. Hitt, Mrs. John Hay,
Mrs. John D. Langhorne, Mrs. Hearst
and Mrs. Bichard Townsend stand together,
those women alone would represent by their
jewels between $800,000 and (900,000, while
Mrs. Wanamaker, Madam Bomero, Mrs.
Warder, Mrs. Blaine, Countess Esterhazy
and Mrs. Eugene Hale would eaeh repre
sent a comfortable fortune in the stones
sparkling from throat, ears and hair.
WHAT MBS. HAEEISON WILL WEAE.
Mrs. Harrison, though the acknowledged
head of official society from her position as
first lady of the land, does not by any means
lead in the matter of elegant jewels, as her
possessions in this respect are of quite mod
erate dimensions. Nor does she dress so as
to atiact attention in any way when on tbe
street or down town on a shopping expedi
tion. Generally on such occasions she wears
a plain tailor-made gown of broadcloth or
similar handsome material with a short,
close-fitting sealskin coat and cottage bon
net to match tbe prevailing color ot her cos
tume. All this, however, is changed when
any publio ceremonial requires her to appear
in full dress, for on these occasions her cos
tumes arc marked by a degree of quiet ele
gance befitting the .position which she aptly
fills in the White House.
It is unnecessary to giye more than a
passing mention to the inaugural gown of
white satin brocaded in bullion thread in
sprays of golden-rod, as that has already be
come thoroughly familiar to the American
nublic As a rule Mrs. Harrison's gowns
are of satin, either brocaded or plain.and of
velvet, for it is of rare occurrence that she
appears in silk when in evening attire.
French gray, dark heliotrope and black are
her favorite colors. Diamond corsage plus
A French Creation.
with stars for the halt of the same precious
stones are Mrs. Harrison's favorite orna
ments. MRS. MOKTOH'S FATOBITES.
Mrs. Morton's street costumes are marked
by a degree of simplicity which one might
look for rather in a woman of moderate
means than in one whose husband not only
stands second in tbe greatest nation in the
world, but who ranks high among those
men who count their fortunes by millions.
The truth is that Mrs. Morton, though given
carte blanche by the Vice-President ,-in re
gard to the ordering and purchasing of her
gowns, possesses a very simple taste in such
matters, and, unspoiled by the admiration
so liberally accorded because of nature's
generosity in tbe bestowal of a handsome
face and form, really cares very little to pos
sess an extensive wardrobe.
Mrs. Mortou has very decided views on
the subject of health, which she sees are
fully carried out, not only for herself, but
for her children. Never a day passes, rain
or shine, snow, wind, sleet, or hail, but
what Mrs. Mortou goes out for a brisk walk,
clad in a suitable tight-fitting, tailor-made
gown. At her Wednesday afternoon recep
tions, which are invariably the most crowded
of the season, Mrs. Morton is gowned with a
notable degree of simplicity, though the
texture and fit of her costumes are beyond
criticism. A favorite'gown is of Marie
Louise blue velvet, made high neck and
long sleeves, without the slightest orna
mentation, yet iu which Mrs. Morton wonld
be a noticeable figure in any assemblage.
ONE OP 1IEB EVENING GOWNS.
An evening gown which will be worn
during tbe coming season is of steel gray
satin, to which the. court train fastens on
with revers lined withrosepinksatin, which
unaer a cascauc oi jh, ouows nuu every
movement of the wearer. A necklace pur
chased for his wife by the Vice President'
daring their stay abroad, formerly shone re
splendent upon the flawless neck of a court
beauty famous in the annals of the French
Empire. This is a frip!e,row ot magnificent
solitaires with corsage pins to match in tbe
shape of true lovers' knots. ,
In addition to these are two larger knots
to catch np thotiny sleeves on the shoulder
of a low-neck gown. These were formerly
pendants to the necklace.' Another neck
lace is a collar of emeralds with deep
pendants and long earrings set in diamonds.
A third necklace, and of all Mrs. Morton's
jewels that which forborne reason she prizes
most highly, is three strands of pear-shaped
solitaire pearls, without which she never
travels, even on a short journey.
MBS. SECEKTAKT NOBLE'S TASTE.
Mrs. Noble, wife of the Secretary of the
Interior, never hesitates to avow that she
possesses no jewels whatever, and on one oc
casion, when questioned on the subject, ro
tated an amusing incident of her childhood,
recalling the wondering admiration and tbe
secret awe with which she regarded a cer
tain woman on hearing her proffer the loan
of her diamqnds,to a friend. Her diamonds)
The phrase was 'magnificent So the child
ish imagination conjured up visions of the
treasures of Golconda, the wealth ofthe In
dies, tbe splendors of the Orient Finally
summoning up courage she questioned her
mother: "Why have I never seen Mrs.
Blank's diamonds? Why does she, never
wear them?"
She says that even at this lapse of time
she can recall her mother's expression and
the enjoyment of the question, as tshe put
out her arm, saying: "Dear, you have seen
her diamonds. She wears them every day."
And then she explained tbut'they were sim
ply the earrings and cluster ring, to tbe
A
sight of which the little girl bad been accus
tomed all her life.
A. BEAUTY FBOM THE SOUTH.
Madam Bomero's entrance into any social
assemblage or gathering of distinguished
ofSoiils is invariably the signal for a pleas
ant flutter of expectancy, as her gowns and
jewels are among the moat notably elegant
worn in Washington. Among the. Parisian
gowns worn by Madam during the present
season is pne of rose-pink faille brocaded in
large open diamonds or satin. The front of
the gown is embroidered In pink topaz,
from which in three deep points to the bot
tom of the skirt bangs a fringe of pi nk crys
tal beads. The de Medici collar, cuffs of
the elbow' sleeves, and front of the corsage
are embroidered in pink crystal, while from,
the back about six or eight inches in depth,
is a. heavy fringe of tbe same beads.
Another gown is of ivory rhite satin hro
caded in the Prussian Kaiser Blumen. On
the petticoat the flowers are outlined in
crystal beading, a sparkling brilliant mat
ing the center of each. The de Medici col
lar and front of the square-neck corsage are
also elaborately embroidered in crystal,
which fastens over a tucker of point lace.
Tbe edge of .the corsage is finished with a
double row of large brilliants, which also
ornament the lower edge of the high-puffed
sleeves.
A VISION 07 SFLENSOB.
Another equally elegant one fs of Toriari
do red satin brocaded in graduated velvet
stripes. The lower part of the skirt has a
battlement effect, with gold open work, over
which falls a fringe of straight narrow silk
balls. A full vest ot plain satin is fastened
with three small studs of dead gold, similar
studs fastening the sleeves on the inner
seam at the bottom. The bonnet- to match
this costume Is of black velvet, toque effect,
studded with pendants of real coral and in
front a small cluster of coral-hued ostrich
tips.
The elegant jewels worn by Madam
Bomero on state occasions were presented to
her by the Minister on their wedding day.
A pair of earrings, for the purchase of
which a prominent society woman is now
negotiating, and which will probably attract
considerable attention in society this season,
have a prettily romantic story attached to
tbe manner in which they came to be owned
on this side of the water. They are emeralds
of great value, the limpid green, set in tiny
diamond rims.. The earrings proper are
round and connected with the lower parts
by a smaller solitaire diamond. The pear
shaped pendants, over an inch long, are 20
karats each In weight and are pronounced
among the rarest ever brought to this
couritry. "
THET HAVE A HISTOBT.
Long ago, in the time of Catherine IL,
they formed part of the crown jewels of
Bussia, and were given by the great Empress
to a favorite maid of honor, who in turn
sold them to a rich jeweler in order to raise
money to tide her lover in the Imperial
Guards over a temporary difficulty. This
sale was discovered by a rival and reported
to the Empress, who not only dismissed the
maid of honor in disgrace, bat deprived her
lover of his rank in the Guards and ban
ished him to Siberia.
There are few women of more imposing
appearance in a public assemblage than Mrs.
John A. Logan, wto,. howeyer, since her
husband's death, has never appeared at an
evening reception gowned iu .anything bnt
black, faille or velvet, save npon'the notable
occasion last season, when she made one of
tbe guests at a state dinner at the White
House. Then the costume was a perfect one
of pearl gray faille, finished about the V
nect with a soft fold of white mull. This
was purchased during her trip abroad with
the Misses Pullman, and worn for the first
time at the dinner given by Mr. Carnegie to
Mr. Gladstone. The only ornament was an
exquisite cameo head of General Logan,
suspended by a fine gold chain. This cameo
Mrs. Logan had made to order in Kome.
THE CALITOBNIA DIVES.
Mrs. Leland; Stanford, wife of tbe many
times millionaire from California, Is noted
in society for her jewels and elaborate
gowns, all of which come from abroad, the
former having been purchased from notable
collections of impecunious royalty. The
material generally selected by her for after
noon reception and evening costumes is of
satin or velvet, and in color U invariably of
black, white, gray or one of the many shades
of purple or lilac Her visiting costume is
of dark purple velvet, with which is worn a
mantle of black velvet trimmed in jet and a
broad border of feathers about the throat
and down the Iront.
Among the crown jewels owned and worn
by Mrs. Stanford is a collar of opals, with
large pendants of the sam stone, and ear
rings to match. Another is a collarette of
solitaire diamonds, from which, in every
.color of the rainbow, gleam and scintillate
three deep pointed pendants, so arranged
that when worn, the entire front of the neck
is hidden beneath a flashing cascade of
light, changing with every movement of the
wearer. Earrings, bracelets and rings of
diamonds match this, and are still preserved
iu theirjquaint Old World setting. The only
stones of color ever worn by Mrs. Stanford
is a unique necklace, earrings and bracelets
of amethysts.
LIKE COBNELIA OP OLD.
Mrs. Miller, wife of the Attorney General,
laughingly avows that she resembles the
Roman matron of old, inasmuch as her only
jewels are her three children. Mrs. B. H.
Warder, formerly of Chicago, possesses some
of the most valuable jewels worn in Wash
ington, prominent among which is a dia
mond necklace, a double row of solitaires,
with a large medallion pendant Her favor
ite texture for evening gowns, and one which
shows her jewels to advantage, is velvet in
dark rich colors.
Noncoouut of the jewels worn by women
prominent in Washington society would be
complete without a mention of the magnifi
cent djamoqd necklace purchased two win
ters since by Colonel John D. Laughorne
i for his wife. The necklace, brought to
Washington by a dealer in precious stones,
was first placed on exhibition at one of the
leading jewelers in the city, and for a space
of several weeks thereafter was more widely
talked ot and written about than anything
of tbe kind since the international discussion
overtbe diamonds sent by the Khedive to
General Sherman's daughter upon the occa
sion of her marriage to Lieutenant
Thackara.
THEY COST A POBTUNE.
The stones 'were not only of unusual size,
but each one wis absolutely flawless, and it
was said that the' collector had travelled
from end to end of Europe in order to ob
tain the number of stones necessary lor the
completion of tbe necklace. .Finally, after
many conflicting rumors as to the ultimate
destination of tbe necklace, it was purchased
for a small fortune by Colonel Laughorne as
a Christmas present for his wife. Subse
quently it was decided to place it for safe
keeping iu the vaults at Biggs' Bank until
tbe undesirable tumult qf talk concerning it
had subsided.
Mrs. Don Cameron appreciates the charm
of simplicity in dress, and though occasion
ally she will appear at some' large entertain
ment leaning on her husband's arm, re
splendent in a Parisian gown, ber throat and
low corsage ablaze with precious stones, yet
the reverse is generally the case. Mrs.
Cameron never looks sp beautiful as when
gowned all in white, the soft pnfls of silk
mull forming tiny sleeves caught up with
shoulder knots of white ribbon or strands of
pearls, ropes of the some milky gems tied
about her throat Miss Geundy, Jb.
AN APB0N FOB BUSY MAIDS.
Those Who Affect Art Take to Strong; Linen
Prettily Made Up.
A new apron that rejoices in' the name of
"Sweet Brier" has come into popularity
with those maids who model in clay, ham
mer in brass, dabble' In paints, and putter
in cookery. It is attractive iu appearance
and provides a complete covering for the
dress.
Made in strong linen or Holland, it is
hound in crossway bands of smart fancy
leDhyrs in many pretty colors. It is pro
vided with natty pookets and a big bib that
has a collar to hold it in place, The "Sweet
Layender" is another apron that enjoys
great popularity on account of its useful
ness, being provided with- long sleeves and
sides that extends way, back of the dress
skirt " '
ORDER OF THE MAGI.
Bessie Bramble's- Opinions on Things
Spiritual and Astral.
NEW ERA DAWNING IN CHICAGO.
A Lock of Hair and a Dollar May Hake
Trouble for the Doctors.
STELLAR GLORIES AND MEDICINE
WRITTEN TOE THX DISPATCH. 1
While awaiting the next oration by some
master mind now in tbe spirit land, a little
time mpy be spent in contemplation of the.
teachings and manifestations of occult phen
omena as set forth by the "Order of tbe
Magi" in Chicago. These mysteries are
said to be abbolutely amazing, and are ex
hibited under tbe strictest test conditions.
As illustrating the things wonderlul that
have occurred already, it is stated that a'
reporter Qctailed to write them up was par
alyzed by having his own cane turned into
what seemed to be a snake. Prognostica
tions were uttered and afterward, literally
fulfilled.
The editor of The Thinker, although pre
pared for almost anything in the way of
the action of the astral forces upon the soul
of man, when shown some of the spiritual
mysteries was almost overcome with the
vastness of the new light -that has dawned
upon the earth. While he was attempting
to take in the tremendonsness of this start
ling revelation he saw a book lying upon
the table before him, in which was a predic
tion written iff plain English which slated
that this said editor would visit the house
of the prophet on that very day, and per
form certain mysteries with certain results.
The prediction proved to be true in every
detail. It was written with good ink. and
'purported to have been made almost a mo'nth
before.
"WHAT THE BESTJLT tVAS.
The editor being a spiritualist of the most
ultra order was of course convinced that all
these wonderful things were true. He there
upon urged the occult philosopher and high
priest ot the Magi to pack up his duds at
One of the Latest.
home and come straight to Chicago, there to
set up a temple, establish the Order of the
Magi, and constitute The Thinker the
official organ of this mysterious brother
hood. This has been done, and now tbe
prophet holds forth in lectures on such com
prehensive subjects as "Astral Magnetism,
or the Occult Forces of Nature," "Zodiacal
Differentiation in Man," and "Infinity."
The reports of these lectures are illustrated
by the old almanac pictures of the signs
of the Zodiac, with the Bam and the Bull,
tbe Crab, the Fishes, the Uoat. the Scor
pion, the Lion, the Twins, and all tbe rest
of the constellations distributed around the
form of a woman.
From a spiritual point of view we are
gravely told the signs begin at Libra. But
owing to the specific effects of tbe astral
vibrations, this high priest of mysterious
revelations makes a different arrangement
of the signs, the meaning ot which, In bis
own" words, is "that man has developed so
highly as to be differentiated to 12 places of
vibration the highest of all earthly crea
tions." It is likely that this piece ol pro
found knowledge will be a 'comfort to the
"seekers of light," even it they do not know
what, under the shining heavens, it all
means. .
SOME HIGH-SOUNDING PHBASES.
Furthermore, it will doubtless be a matter
of rejoicing to many to hear ''that man can
differentiate to but one more, place in the
physical body. He covers the 12 Zodiacal
signs now the center only is to come. The
center is the sun." The brethren and
the sisters "must all become the sons and
daughters of Light" They must become
possessed of "tbe thirteenth power," and
when enough of the inhabitants of the earth
have "differentiated to that point the long-Bougbt-for
millennium will have come." In
fact, it seems to be dawning iu Chicago at
the present time by virtue of spiritualism
and these revelations.
But, perhaps, we should tell the story of
this wonderful professor, or prophet, and his
mysterious goings on. By the way, what a
difference there is between Chicago and
PIttsburgI If this great nign priest oi oc
cult mysteries, with his predictions, and
prognostications, and spiritual manifesta-
Quite a Nivelty.
tions, were to come to this saintly, orthodox
city of Pittsburg, it is more than likely that
he would be arrested as n fortune teller,
locked up as a dealer in futures, a purveyor
of bogus miracles, a spiritual bunko-man
with the purpose of preying upon the pock
ets of the people, and from whom
they must be protected by the police.
But in Chicago, as appears, he has full
swing. A temple where the startling reve
lations cin be made, with the. furl her ad
vantage o' a spiritual organ to publish and
proclaim the same, has been secured. SeeK
eri after light through mediums and mys
teries have therefore nqw a lull opportu
nity to reach out for the "thirteenth' power,"
(whatever that Is) and thus liiyhold of a
slice of the long-prnniiied millennium,
WHAT PITTBBUKO 18 J.OSING.
There Is no telling what Pittsburg has
lost already, and may lose hereafter by its
narrow goodness ami liijoled conservatism
iu regarding with suspicion, and refusing a
welcome, to those whose antral forces and
magnetic powers enable them to read what
is written in the stars, and indelibly im
pressed Within the book of fate. What
business has Brother McAleese to step iu
and say we shall not be allowed to give a
dollar and a loot of hair to a gifted being
w2. Mik
who for such consideration will relate past
events, predict future happenings, and tell
us all about tbe world to come?
Howeve, to tbe story of this newpro
fessor, who has organized the "Order of the
Magi:" In ancient times "the Magi were
the learned men among the people, the
keepers of sacred things, the philosophers,
the servants of God, the diviners, augurs,
astrologers." They called up the spirits of
the dead, and were held in greatest awe and
Teverence in tbe days of their ascendency.
As the world grows gradually out of super
stition, they have lost their prestige with
all save the ignorant, and haye degenerated
into fortune tellers, jugglers, and quacks.
But the mind of man hankers after the
mysterious. "Providence intended there
should be mysteries," says Dean Swift The
new order of the Magi is of course to deal
in the mysteries ot modern spiritualism,
and astral magnetism and kindred subjects.
NO ANGEL IN THIS DEAL.
The tale that is told is somewhat romantic
like that of Joe Smith and his revelation
as to Mormonism. Smith was visited by a
"personage" an "angel of God" with a
"countenance hke"lightning" who told him
where to find the golden plates of the Book
of Mormon, and revealing the doctrines of
the sect of which he became tbe leader. But
the new mau, of Chicago, leaves out the
angel parj. He gives no account of "a
voice" lrom heaven, bnt relates his experi
ence with a mysterious man in Nashville,
and ot receiving from him the "magic
word." He tells of his initiation into the
secrets of Ancient Egypt; his narrow es
capes and adventnres while apparently in.
the hands of Fate; his studies and struggles
while seeking for light; of a visit to Chicago,
where he fonnd the ancient occult book that
unlocked tbe mysteries of tbe past, and
furnished information as to "the word" that
was lost at the building ot Solomon's temple.
. It is to be hoped that this "lost werd of
ancient Oriental Masonry" will be ex
hibited at the World's Fair. Snch a relic
wonld excite vast interest and attention.
Bulging with all this knowledge, the posses
sor thereof could hardly fall short of going
to Chicago to urge its people to seek for the
possession of the "thirteenth power," and
thus hurry up the millennium. If this
state of "amazing grace" could be brought
to a beginning in 1S03, what a boon it would
be to the Columbus celebration! Truly,
Chicago should sustain its reputation and
hustle to bring about this seasou of the ces
sation of sin and sorrow, and the prevalence
of some degree of holiness and happiness
about that time.
THE PBOPOSED JIILLENIUM.
A little foretaste of the glory and mag
nificence of the prophesied millennial dis
pensation, however, would be welcomed any
time. Contemplate the justice as presented
in an ancient book when "the earth will be
cultivated throughout its length and
breadth; when there will be no more seas;
no more winters; no more nizhts: everlast
ing springs will run with honey, milk and
wine. When every bunch of grapes will
have 10,000 berries, and every berry
will give hundreds of gallons of wine."
Here the question comes up as to whether,
under snch mjllennial circumstances, there
will exist a prohibition party.
This great prophet says: "Each planet
rules a planet in each of the houses ot the
Zodiac; and some planets rule many vege
table productions in each house. These
plants produce effects upon the human econ
omy when taken as medicine, corresponding
to tbe combined vibratory effects of the sign
and the planet that rnles the plant." To
this statement he adds that plants partake
of the characteristics of the stars they are
ruled by. As an illustration he gives Aries.
Under this sign of tbe Bam he says:
Mercury rules Cascarilla,
Venus rales .Nutmeg.
Mars rules Canabis Iudlca.
Jupiter rnlas Eucalyptus.
Saturn rules Aconite.
Uranus rules Thyme. -
Saturn is the planet of death and sickness,
and has charge of the deadly poison of
Aconite. Venus is the planet of love, life
and health, and has charge of the nutmeg
Princ-u Gown With Jacket.
with its tonic and exhilerating qualities.
But every one of these articles, he avers, sets
up vibrations in the human system, affecting
the head and circulation.
D0CT0B8 MUST LOOK OUT.
Space is too short to go into detail as to
this system of stars, and garden stuff, and
weeds. Suffice it to say that this member of
the Mjgi claims that "combinations
of the active principles of the seven
planets -ruling in each sign, and a(-
ectinghe human system, comes as near to
a scientific theory of medicine as itis possi
ble to get." ln.fuct be asserts that he has
demonstrated this as a truth himself, and
the efivcts thereof are of a magnetic nature.
It woujd seem, then that It.was time for-the
ordinary run of doctors Jto wake up. This
man with his headjiiuonsr the stars holding
communion with spirits on demand, may
secure a divine soark that will fire all of
their system of guesswork from the face of
the earth. 'Among the fnany mysteries as
noted in (his spiritualist paptr none are
more funny than thu advertisements.
Mark the following:
Consult with Pror. Blank in nil matters per
taining tb practical lire and your spirit friends.
Send lock of half or bandnrttinc; and St Send
for circulars.
Psychometric readings from gloves or hair for
60 cents. Address Mrs.
Astrnlozical .Medium. Consults on all affairs
of life. Fees SI and Si
Dr. inafceu a specialty of treating can
cer, catarrb, rheumatism, neuralgia and nervous
prostration successf ally with "astral remedies,"
under planetary law.
Rev. Dr. .Jrance. Test Healing, Clair
voyant. Business medium, diagnosis from lock:
nf hair, etc, etc. Answers to scaled letters.
Satisfaction guaranteed. Fee $2.
a TorsY-iunvY wobld.
A lock of hair and fl seem to be the
the favorite st le of reaching the mysteries
of the future, and of healing all diseases.
Judging by theso advertisements nobody
need he jguorjut as to their rate no one need
be sick or lu sorrow.
These mediums by their mysterious gifts
of clairvoyance and mjgnetlsm will furnish
comfort and consolation in this world, and.
solace ami satisfaction in the world to come
at reasonable ratt-s. The philosophy of
Epicurus as summed up was to trust to his
tenses and follow his nose. But nowadays
sonic people seem to think progress means
to co backward. Fashion goes baetc to
Cleopatra and Medici for its gowns. Those
tired uf Christianity are fulling Uack on
heathenism or Buddhism the creed ot a
score of centuries ago.
Nov tbe newest fad is to take up the
mouldy suosrstitions c astrology asa system
of medicine. Truly this is a topsy-turvy
world. ' Bessie Bramble.
Mm
mm
FACES OF THE FAIR!
If Beanly Must Paint Her Cheeks Bhe
Needn't Use Bonge.
JUICE OP THE BEET IS BETTEB. 4
The Blood of the Strawberry Will Do, lit ,
It'sflarder to Get. ?
fcr
SECRET OP THE SUCCESS OF POWDEE
The idea of "makinVop"is extremely
distasteful and suggestive of the ballet to
the woman of refined taste, and yel snch
is the delicacy of coloring in most American
faces that in the blaze of brilliant lights
their beauty seems faded, or 'is lost alto
gether, says "the New York tfun. Particu
larly is this noticeable in boxes at the thea
ter or opera, where the glare of the foot
lights increases the pallor of delicate women
and dims the coloring even of the freshest
and fairest youthful faces.
The great beauties of bygone ages owed
much of their triumph to the secrets of the
toilets, but, unfortunately, so jealously
were these secrets guarded that they were
buried with their owners. Butufcince it is
every woman's bounden duty'and privilege
to make the best of the beanty which she
possesses, whether the Creator has endowed
her with s greater or lesser share of charms, .
a little chapter on the "make-up" for ladies
may interest some fair reader.
how to use the potvdeb.
Some one wise in the arts suggests that
the appearance of the neck and arms is
always most pleasing in evening dress when
they have been sponged with perfumed tepid
water, thoroughly dried, and then bathed
with a lotion composed of .equal parts of
glycerine and rose water. "While this is
still damp a thick coating of powder is ap
plied with a puff and left on until the last
moment It it 13 then rubbed in thoroughly,
but gently, the skin will seem beautifully
white, and all traces of powder will have
disappeared.
The scarlet tint of the lips is intensified
by wetting them with perfume, and when
that has dried touching them with cold
crean to soften them. This treatment should
not be applied very often, as the delicate
membrane of the lips may become hard and
dry. Powder on the face shows less if ap
plied with a bit of chamois rather than a
pud, or if a puff is used the powder should
be rubbed gently into the skin with a hare's x
foot or a smsll soft brush such as. is used on
babies' heads.
BEETS rOB THS CHEEKS.
Eyebrows are wonderfully improved Dy
rubbing good brilliantlne into them, and
then coaxing or training them into proper
curves with a fine-tooth comb or the fingers.
The brilliantine does away with the need of
the actor's pencil, as it darkens the hair.
There was once a famous lady who tinted
her.cheeks with mashed strawbetries washed
off with milk, but the inexpensive and
easily obtained garden beet will give the
cheek as fair and natural a bloom, and can
in no sense be construed as rouge or paint
Just why it is so much more shocking to
use a bit of color on the cheeks than any
amount of powder on the face and arms and
shoulders is a bit difficult to comprehend,
but such seems to be tbe prevalent opinion
among conservative women. -The homely
vegetable is simply cut with a knife and left
to drain its juice out for beauty's use. The
liquid should be applied with a camel's hair
brush and toned down after it dries with a
coating of powder. But the woman who
uses it must have such artistic inspirations
and nicety of execution that even her most
intimate friends will never imagine that she
is "made up," or the whole process will re
sult in disastrous failure.
One of the Erenlng Dresses.
A very chic evening dress, which, by the
way, is borrowed from the theatres which
is the case with most of our full dress cos
tumes nowadays is a very handsome
ensemble. The corsage is of light blue
cloth, covered over with red tulle embroid
ered with Jet and russet beads. The sleeves
of cloth trimmed with clusters of jet The
skirt in pieces equally open iu iront, with
embroidered tulle. A border of blue feath
ers at the foot of the skirt; train of piece
cloth.
HE-NO
"Oh l those advertised thing
are humbugs"
Madam, permit us a
vordof plain talk.
m inimicon
things are hum
bugs, just as you
find hypocrites and
humbugs in the
holiest of places.
itis the humbug
and the imitator
whofollowsinthe
wake of a successful advertised arti
cle, deceiving tlie people by crying out
"just the same as Be-No," orubet- ,
ter than He-No" or " as good as
He-NoV
Ask yourself if those articles which experi
ence has taught you are the best, are not the:
most advertised.
Will it fay us to spend more than we can
hope to get tack in two years, if we are not
positive beyond question that in the end you
will discover the true merits of He-No tea,
and by its continued use eventually repay us'.
We are casting bread upon the waters
knowing that it will come back to us, Bui
would it if the tea was poor?
Send us 3c to pay postage, and get a book
gyring facts about the effects of tea.
DO WE NOT GIVE ABUNDANT PROOF
, OF OUR GOOD FAITH ?
ASK YOUR CHOCIR TOR HC-NO TCA, AND TAXt;
HO SUBSTITUTE. BtWARCOT IMITATION.
MARTIN G1LLET ft CO., lErtailhhtd Jilt.)
Exchange Place, Baltimore, Md.
a-41-aa
MADAME A.-RUPPERT
Complexion Specialist.
Mm. A. Buppert's world-renowned faea
bleach Is the only facs tonic fn tbe worlrt which
po.itlTely removes freckles, moth patches,
blackheads, pimples, birthmarks, eczema and
all blemishes ot tbe skin, and when applied
cannot be observed by anyone. The facs
bleach can only be bad at my branch office,
Ne. 93 Fifth avenue. Hamilton building, rooms
203 and 204, Pittsburg: or sent to any address oa
receipt ot price. Hold at 3 per bottle, or three
bottles, usually required to clear, the complex
ion. $5. Send 4 cents postatre for full particulars.
ocll-Sa MilE. A. KOPPEST.
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