EEaESS
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24
HATS FOR YOUNG AND OLD.
Becoming Costumes for Baby, Girl and
Matron rur AVIU be a Teature of Milli
nery This 'Winter A Few retching
Models in Headgear.
iwrittex rem the DisrATCH. !
Ever since man was created babies have
been to clothe. Each mother mar
look forward to having to dress her
daughters from 1G to 20
years, and, as one's life
w ill change from two to
three times, the styles
will change as many
dozen times in this short
period of time. For the
A . . ...
A',- health and comlort is 01
"ljLEsftJ paramount importance,
'Miy and the mother should
tljfft remember that cream or
Ora Sranct, pae blue should always
Man Milliner. be chosen if the color is
to come near its eyes, and she will conse
quently find the little hoods or caps of eider
down, silk, cashmere or fine muslin are most
appropriate.
As time creeps on apace the cap is laid
aside and for summer the wide brim hat,
simply trimmed in ribbon, is worn by tots
from o to 6 years of age and these are laid
aside for fez and English caps. Tne fez is
made over .1 shape similar to that worn by a
Turk, and is of black or colored velvet
trimmed with a pompom or bow of ribbon.
A very stvlish icz to match a wrap is of
black velvet, trimmed at the back with a
tassel of hite Angora goat hair aud a ros
ette of black ribbon. As the tassel falls on
the hair it is very effective for curly hair.
The English cap is just a band covered with
lolded velvet, and the crown, before it is ar
ranged in shape.resenibles a dunce's cap. Tne
point is pulled over to the side and held in
.S
.SS&. o
S!l'
place with a bow of ribbon. One of these
caps has the band black astrakhan and the
crown of black and red velvet, with the bow
of red ribbon.
Another, in one of Mary Tudor's favorite
dress combinations, lias the brim of black
velvet, the crown of Coquclicot velvet and
the trimmings of gold cord looped around
the side and tasseied at the point. The Tam
O'bhanters are worn, and the band is fre
quently of fur, with the velvet or silk crown
hnuned with a small bunch of tips or bow
of ribbon, the latter being the preferred
trimming for little misses. Tne Lord
Fauntleroy style of trimming is the hroad
brim hat "turned up in front, over which
tails three tips and one large plume at the
back, which is fastened on the brim. This
is worn by little girls and bovs, and it is the
Hvle worn by the sons of Mrs. Frances
Hodgson Burnett. Of course it is absolutely
necessary to ha've the straight bangs and
iong curlv hair.
A pretty novelty is a little poke frame,
co .5 plain with brown velvet and solt
crown with a frill of cream lace around the
edge, and trimmed with a bow of ribbon
aud ties of the same. The large felt flats are
used lor misses from G to 15 years of age,
and I may safely say that ribbon is the
tavored garniture, but sometimes small tips
are used with surprising effect. Sash rib
bon at present is made into stylish large
bows, and placed on the side with fringed
en1s.
No sooner has one finished one wardrobe
when it is time to start another, and so it
goes, helping to form the briars of this
workaday world. One of the most essential
things in a toilet in fact I might say the
most essential thing is good and becoming
headgear. 'With a becoming hat and mod
erately good gowns a woman may pass with
good effect. In choosing a hat or bonnet for
a woman with prominent features take a
rnlcr or stiff piece of pasteboard, hold it
ftraight against the tip of the nosa and have
the trimming or brim come as far forward.
The toque is still the favorite and is suit
able lor all occasions and is becoming to
most all, unless it is the aquiline style.
Fur is to flourish in millinery, and
various small heads in fur will be fashiona-
ble upon your own head. As some think
them unpleasant to gaze upon, and you
won't have to look at your own, so to wear
them yourself will be the only way to get
even with people that do. A most novel
and becoming toque that at once appeals to
the artistic and cultured taste is a softly
folded crown of chamois skin with a band of
beaver around the bottom and a beaver head
placed in front, which seems to savagely
protect the wearer. "With the advancing
winter, small millinery mufls of velvet or
cloth, with the toque and pelerine to match,
will take the place of fur in dressy visiting
costumes. This change will in many cases
be made to merely vary the toilet, and for
trimmings will often be used.
A beautiful model of this kind was of
Argent gray and black velvet, the muff and
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toque trimmed in wide chenille and silver
braid and a sea gull on each. A stiS loop
and rope of the velvet is knotted in front
and drawn back with the bird perched on
the lower edge and resting on the hair.
Another model is a round toque with a band
of Persian lamb wool around the lower edge
and three black birds huddled together at the
back, all but twittering. The crown is of
bright red velvet and the muff is of bright
led velvet with the Persian lamb wool at
each edge and three black birds at the top
of thaniuff, which is lined with black silk.
Smooth lelt hats are to be much worn for
knockabout wear. Grav is to be well worn
this winter in combination with solt vellow
and gold braid. For youthful wearers the
Spanish student hats of dahlia, prune, vio
let and black velvet trimmed witn gold
ornaments and cords. Thee are rivaled by
a new and particularly becoming walking
hat called the Highland.
Ora Seaitet,
Parisian Man Milliner.
DIVIDED HAT FOE THEATEBS.
It is a Boon to the Women and a Source of
Joy to All Mankind.
Boston Globe.
Thousands of dollars are saved to the fair
wearers, and the jokes on women's head
gear at the theater are
bushed forever bv the
S1.. adoption of the divided
WtfhaL Evervladvhas.n
-Tr
sailor hat or a toque in
her possession; if she
nrants a fresh one she
can get it. Now, then,
take a large brim of
any old hat, straw or
felt, cover it to suit
your taste, and around
ivote You See JC.
the inner edge vrhere it comes against your
head put a roll of velvet or a silk ribbon.
Put two dress hooks inside of it; then slip
this large brim onto your sailor hat or
toque and you have a stylish hat for the
street.
"When you enter the theater all you have
to do is to take tne orini
off and have it checked
with your wraps.
In this way you are in
?8 or H) In opera hats;
you will be able to see
the play, you will not
catch cold in your head,
J l.n.. -n. file .nti
auu M 11CU uu ui. J uu 1.
win nave les &1115 i.u au-w,
..ni ,nv o -m,, T1D1(TII. .FUl J
DIIC1 IUI, 3 Ju. u...l. ifc&r .& II
bor behind will have i-fMV;!'
vol, r hut. ''it It 111
A peginthecloak room 'ow You Dorit,
will hold at least a dozen of those brims.
If while returning from a visit a beautiful
northeasterly storm accompanies you home,
of course you cannot hold on to your skirts,
your umbrella, and your large hat; but if
you have on the divided hat all you have to
do is to step inside a doorway, unhook the
brim of it, and hoop it under your umbrella,
and there you are.
"WOMEN IK PHOTOGRAPHY.
A London Ustablisliment Where Men Are
Barred and Fine Work Promised.
rallMallBudget.
A charming little studio for photography
has jnst been opened by a ladv, Mrs. Gabcll,
at 22 Eburv street. It is next door to the
studio of Mr. Herkomer, the It. A. Mrs.
Gabell is a gentle pioneer nf women's wort.
She is a pretty, soft-voiced little woman.
"I mean, you know," she said, "to run the
whole business by the aid of women alone.
The actual taking, posing, developing and
retouching of photographs will all be done
by women. Nearly all the retouchers em
ployed by the leading London photo
graphers are women, as you hnow. But
nobody has ever thought yet of initiating
women into the other parts of the business,
and consequently they have never been able
to start work on their own account. There
are no women operators, for instance; how
ever, I mean to have them here."
Platinotype portraits, she told me, would
supersede "the ordinary kind altogether
presently. At first they didn't take very
well; people said they were too cold, too
much like an engraving. They are rather
costly. A dozen of platinotype cabinets cost
2 guineas. I asked Mrs. Gabell whether it
was true that retouching was going out of
fashion. She said, no; retouching was being
done more than ever, only so much more
finelv than it used to be. "Women who do
retouching have to have a knowledge of
drawing and anatomy.
WOMAN'S DANGEROUS AGE,
Most Fascinating at 30 Because She Uses
Her Brains Then.
Balzac has said that a woman of 30 is at
her most fascinating and dangerous age, and
it is indeed true that all the women famous
for power over the hearts of men, from Cleo
patra and Helen down, were nearer 40 than
20 when at the zenith of their power. Per
haps the secret lies in the simple fact that
the woman of 20 must be pleased, while the
woman of 40 tries to please; and the older
woman's power consists not, as has been so
often said, in understanding and making the
most of her own charms, bnt in comprehend
ing and with happy tact calling out and
making the most of the good qualities of the
man whose favor she seeks. '
A man admires a clever woman, but he
enjoys himself better with a woman who
makes him feel that he is clever. He likes
being entertained for a little while by a
well-informed woman, but he enjoys much
better the happy tact which makes him be
lieve that lie is entertaining the well
informed woman and telling her a great
many things that she never dream eft ol.
And the woman a man likes best is not
always the one who is most brilliant, but
the one who has the happy knack of discov
ering the subject he talks best on and is well
enough informed to listen intelligently and
Wj.
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draw him out with haopv queries until he
is asiomsueu at nis own nriiiiaucr.
EXTRAVAGANCE IN HAIR DBESS.
Xbted "Women Who Had Miniature Stages
Made on Their Heads.
New York Sun. 3
"What woman would go to the trouble of
having an ornament for her hair made after
the fashion of that worn by the Duchess of
Orleans during the reign of Louis Le
Grand on her first appearance at court after
the birth of her son and heir? She had on
her high pouT a representation in gold and
enamel of the entire nursery, the purse,
infant, cradle and playthings being most
conspicuous.
Another marvelous head ornament was
that worn by Mme. d'Egremont, daughter
of the Ducde Richelieu, after her father
bad successfully taken Port Mahon by a
series of strategems. She wore a little dia
mond fortress, with the sentinels keeping
guard, aud, wonderfully enough, they could
be made to walk up and down the miniature
rampartsl And yet women of to-day think
they spend much money and much in
genuity in getting up new devices and in
using their costly jewels to make themselves
beautiful. They don't know until they
read what women used to do ZOO years ago
what extravagance really is.
THANKFUL FOR MOTHERHOOD.
A Cheerful View of Woman's Sphere From
Rose Terry Cooke.
Another thing that women have to be
thankful for, says Eose Terry Cooke, is that
they always have the care and earlier edu
cation of children. "What would become of
those blessed buds if they were given over
to the handling of men! Think of the
rough words, the impatience, the hatred of
detail that their small sorrows and daily
needs would call out from the parental
guardian; thiuk also of the divine patience,
the perpetual little cares, the gentle caresses,
that feed these small strangers in a world of
woe fallen into the hands of women.
Who does not feel in her very heart of
hearts that a mother is the one sacred and
faithful Iriend life has to offer, the only one
who forgives and endures and loves through
want and sin and shame down to the dark
waters of death; surely beyond even that
silent and forgetful river. Be thanklul,
then, for mnthsrhood.
New English Mackintosh.
rail Mall UudEetO
This is a cieverly-designed mackintosh
costume for rainy days and muddy weather.
In material and cut it looks exactly like an
ordinary plain outdoor gown. It can be
slipped on as easily as a cloak; the skirt
lastens down the front with invisible but
tons. FANCIES FOR THE FAIR.
Fort fashionable toot coverinc the pointed
shoo Is still in high favor, retaining its popu
larity. Veby brilliant and picturesque are the
carriage wraps this season. Scarlet is the color
most affected.
A saleswoman in a perfumer's says fashion
able women spent more on perfumes for the
bath than for other purposes.
It is true, moro's tho pity, that large muffs
will bo fashlonaoM this winter. They aro a
novelty, and that's good enough
It Is a matter of course that tho Medici collar
appears upon every style of wrap. It shows
considerable variation of outline.
The tight-fitting jackets are very tight-fitting
indeed, and are intended for the corset, not for
the classic figure, the form feminine rather
than the form divine.
Almost every girl who is going to be married
this autumn has declared that her good luck
came rrom her wearing her yellow garter ever
since last Easter Day.
At a military wedding in London the other
day. the bridemaids carried posies of red
flowers (the nearest to military red) tied with
the Uoyal Artillery ribbons.
There is a perfect craze for feather and Inr
trimmings, and we do know mother fashion
never set her seal of approval upon a more en
hancing relief for the complexion.
A marked feature in winter gloves is the
gauntlets, which are this year made high and
stiff, tlie majority perfectly plain and the glove
secured by two patent fastenings.
Painted gowns are much in favor. In Paris
the very wealthy and artistic women are all
wearing them. One famous artist in France
painted a masterpiece on a front of gauze for a
Parisian lady to wear at one of President
Carnot's receptions. The painting alone cost
a small fortune.
A syndicate of widows Is being formed to
move the French Government to help Luclen
Wyse to wring a renewal of the Panama
concession from the Government of Colombia.
This Union will be numerically great, as 18,000
free and independent ladies are interested in
the Panama affairs.
Lamp and candle shades for the most part
are entirely floral. Those mado or silt- are
garlanded with flowers, a trail of orchids, or a
wreath of roses or chrysanthemums, are the
favorite decorations. Tho shades are mado in
colors that harmonize completely with the
decorations of the dinner table.
The extravagance in lace curtains Is some
thing tiemendous this year. One pair of lace
curtains wrought in gold threads were lor salo
at tho modest price of 3,000. These, of course,
were found in New York. Others are wrought
in flaxthreads at a cost of $5,000, while the hand
made laco aro all extremely costly.
Some of the most remarkablo bathing cos
tumes seen at Ostend this year were composed
of thin black cashmere and worn with a white
scartabontthe waist. Another striking cos
tame, worn with no corsets and over fine flesh
colored tights, had a white Russian blouse,
embroidered in metallic tnread; trousers con
fined at the knee with embroidered bands, and
white buckskin leggings.
A "woman in Philadelphia was very poor and
having a tasto for making 1 a certain walnut
confection she turned her knowledge into
profit by making great baskets of it and
selling it on the street. After $20,000 had been
made she retired from the business, selling her
right and recipe to advantage. Now she lives
in comfort, and the amusing part of the story
is that she has a half ol ablaok walnut for her
"coat of arms," and this half walnut Is on the
panels of her carriage and decorates her china
and all her furniture.
About the Same Thing.
Boston Herald.
He Now, darling, you know how strong
is my love for yoi. Do not say you will be
a sister to me.
She No.George, I will notsayso. Tou
He Then you -Will-She
Yon may be brother to me, George.
0k)
THE PITTSBURG- DISPATCH,"
OLD COnRT RECIPES.
Shirley .Hire Kesurrects Some That
Have Considerable Merit.
HYGIEKIO VALUE OP TEE TOILET.
4
Prettj Eefroin In the Boudoir That the
Belles Will Welcome.
AN UNREASONABLE CORRESPONDENT
rWEtTTEN FOB TOE DISFATCn.l
December winds call for special care of
the complexion, which begins to turn dry
and crack under their influence. Now the
cold creams, pastes and pomades are indis
pensable. From iladam, with her perfumed caskets
which when opened fill the room with the
odor of theointuent, to the school teacher,
who keeps her modest box of old cream in
her desk to mitigate the withering effect of
furnace heat and cold wind after, and to
Biddy, who begs a bit of mutton suet from
the butcher's boy to heal her poor hands
hardly dealt with between washing dishes
and and handling ashes all at this season
are interested in this subject. Here is a de
lightful recipe for a lip salve, to keep lips
kissable aud tempting, not blue, withered
and cracking into seams like the orifice
which serves for eating and speaking pur
poses on most women this weather. Imagine
a baby being kissed by such a mouth! No
other creature would be caught iu kissing
distance of it. The recipe is from a daiuty
old collection by a feminine hand tran
scribed from the MSS. of niaid ol honor
and gouveruantes of well born girls:
A TIME-HONORED KKCIPE.
Take yellow beeswax, 2J ounces; oil of
sweet almonds, a quarter 0. .1 pint; melt the
wax in the oil and let the mixture stand till
it becomes cold. Scrape it into a marble
mortar and rub it with a wooden pestle to
reader it perfectly smooth. Keep it lor use
iu a galley pot closely covered.
The old recipes are very exact and sensible
in details, which at first glance we are apt to
consider finical or obsolete. The yellow
wax is better than the white, for cosmetics
and salves made with unbleached wax keep
longer than the white. The cooling and
rubbing smooth when cold makes a finer
cream than the common practice of stirring
till cold, though you may try which you
like. As for "galley pots," what a delight
ful little cold cream holder one makes lrom
a Liebig's extract jar, coated with pale
pink or blue enamel and decorated with
forget-me-nots and fine grass spraysl You
know the idea now is to conceal the uses of
cosmetic boxes and pots as far as possible,
so that the toilet table shows an array of
china, lacquer and bronzing fit for a bracket
in a velvet-lined cabinet.
AESTHETICS OF THE BOUDOIR.
No stamp or label is allowed to mar the
elegance of toilet creams, for the youct;
ladies will want to put the putty box or pot
to further use when empty, lilliug them
with bonbons or using them in the work
basket or writing desk. Beside, 110 curious
servant, visitor or impertinent young
brother can he the wiser about the contents
of that innocent non-committal bit of porce
lain or fancy ware. Our dearest girl friend
cannot "give you away," as the girls say,
when she is admitted to intimate chats in
your own room. She never can hint to the
sister of your best beau that your smooth
complexion is due to constant use of Mme.
Derose's double cream, for she has seen it on
your toilet and knew the pot as soon as she
laid her eyes on it.
The knowing cosmetic artist, following
the latest light in his profession, will not
even adhere to one shape of pot or box, but
studies variety as far as possible. The last
French fancy in lilac perfume comes in
such lovely style, in pale amethyst crystal
bottles, with lilac painting and printing on
the paper labels, that a window of them
tempts one to linger and buy for the sake of
the bottles. Other toilet necessaries look
like melted topaz and ruby.
PLEA FOB COSMETICS.
One can't in the least blame American
women if they do spend, as Kate Field says
they do, ojOOO.OOO a year for cosmetics.
Mighty sum indeed for women to spend in
keeping their persons sweet and attractive,
considering how many million women tnere
are to spend it, and the women don't spend
it nearly all, either I Who buys'thc expen
sive French tooth washes, essences and po
mades hut gentlemen? Who use the finest
face powders but the men who patronize
first-cless barbers? Take it any way you
please, send in the whole bill to the women,
and it comes to about ?3 a year for toilet
necessaries, not by any means all white lead
or calomel. Please remember that the cos
metic art is older than that of medicine, and
was a science before the latter was anything
better than coDjuring. Let me give you
more of these nice old recipes. I know that
women like them. Here is a fluid to clear
a tanned skin:
Take unripo grapes, soalc them in water,
sprinkle them with alum and salt, then wrap
them in paper and roast them in hot ashes:
squeeze out the juice and wash the face with it
every morning; it will soon remove the tan.
You see, lrom this verjuice, salt and alum,
steeped hot together, you get an acid that
would take out mdellible ink and that will cer
tainly whiten the skin. Only you must cerate
after it to soften the cuticle.
Here is a cosmetic water of great use to
prevent pits after the smallpox:
Dissolve an onnce and a half of salt In a pint
of mint water; boil them together and skim the
liquor. This is a very useful wash for the face
after the smallpox in order to clear away the
scabs, allay the itching, and remove the red
ness. A "WASH FOB BEAUTY.
Here is a beautifying wash:
Take equal parts of white tansy and rhu
barb water, and to every half pint add two
drachms of sal ammoniac This fluid i3 ap
plied with a feather or hair pencil three or
four times a day, to pimples or tetters, on any
part of the body.
Here is something to change the color of
tbe hair:
First wash your head in spring water, then
dip your comb in oil of tartar and comb your
self in the sun. Repeat this operation three
times a day, and at tbe end of eight days at
most the hair will turn black.
Now, if you ask your druggist for oil of
tartar and he tells you there is no such
thing, he doesn't know as much as he might.
But if this gentle cosmetic is unobtainable,
our little book tells us that "the leaves of
the wild vine (grapevine) change the hairs
black and prevent their lulling off," when
used in decoction, of course. "The shells
of beans, green shells of walnuts, and red
beet seeds do the same. These ingredients
are to be boiled in rainwater, wine of vin
egar, with some cephalic plant as sage,
balm, laurel, etc" Not wild laurel, which
is poisonous.
ABOUT GLOVES AT NIGHT.
Some odd notions creep into print about
toilet treatment. One lately says that wear
ing gloves at night wrinkles the hands and
makes them yellow. That depends entirely
on the care taken in the matter. Worn as
sleeping gloves usually are, as long as they
will hold together, soiled to begin with,
soaked with repeated dressings of cold,
cream, not too good at the start, and rancid'
with the heat of wearing them for hours
longer than a woman ever wears gloves for
dress, unless at a ball, it is no wonder they
turn the skin yellow and draw it into wrin
kles. Soaking te hands with olive oil, almond
oil or vaseline will yellow them in time, as
the skin takes the hue of oiled paper or
parchment Bnt choosing- a pair of easy
fitting gloves, well cleaned inside as well as
out, the hands, not the gloves, well rubbed
with any wholesome dressing, they cannot
but be much improved by the wearing. It
is not easy to see why it should be injurious
to wear gloves to sleep in any more than
stockings. There is rcilly no way of keep
ing housekeeping hands in order without
the practice.
INDIVIDUALITY IN EPIDEMICS.
Dry, fine skins, which never raise hairs,
mnugo ' nojTnjwjuifacac
or even
SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 30,
ciu use cold cream safely, aud it will keep
the skin fresh and smooth", in place of being
withered. Where there is any tendency to
downiness or hairiness, as with thick, well
nourished complexions, too great care can
not be used what shall be put on the face or
the hands. The skin draws nutrition from
the oils, and this thin layer of fat under the
skin nourishes the lanugo dread of women.
Oily skins should select tbe waxen dress
ings, or flaxseed meal, or cooked oatmeal
applications which have something of var
nish in their nature, under which the skin
remains soft by its own secretions.
Another point on which women need
caution is the new fashion of massage. It
seems as if it should be impossible to use
this invaluable agent to excess. Bnt with
the usual insistence ol women, whether in
morals or manners, in temperance or toilet,
they carry matters toextremes iu that over
doing which is worse than not doing at all.
MASSAGE IN EXCESS.
They want to hurry up matters and grow
young in a fortnight, and so they rub, scrub
and dose, and then abuse every system aud
cosmetic because it docs not undo in a
month the neglect of a lifetime. Massage
is good, and they rub their fices hard till
fevered with ervsipelas, and the conse
quence is the skin Is roughened and red
dened by the harsh treatment, very likely
cracks in the wind. And this sort of irri
tation carried on long enough, especially
with the cocoa butter and almond paste pre
scribed in massage, will produce such a
crop 01 superfluous hair as will drive the
devotee to despair. Therlight sweep of the
bands, no heatiDg or iiritnting the skin, 40
or SO strokes to the minute and a half, is
very different from such malpractice. The
kneading and pinching nf the cheeks must
be gentle, not to abrade the tender tissues.
It won't do, either, to practice massage for
six weeks till the face lreshens and then
drop it. The Iriction should be part of the
daily care of the person through life, like
bru&hing the teeth and hair. There is no
blinking the fact that a woman who has
once begun to fade, who has outworn her
strength, can only preserve attractiveness
by coutinu il good care. She cannot afford
to neglect herself. Tne gain iu liciltli and
nerves by these toilet processes is so great
that they should be encouraged as a most
valuable part of hygienics.
VALUE OF GOOD NERVES,
The nerves control the skin and all the
functions of the body, and these rubbings,
brushing', shampooings and toilet treatment
generally are the most explicitsalvatiou
and benefit to neves and all that depends
on them. How soothing it is to have one's
hair combed and brushed in the right way
by the right sort of person. How tranquil
iziug to leave one's self to the care of an ex
pert manicure, to say nothing of the intelli
gent masseur.
I say intelligent, for it is rather ablessing
to find a wholesome, kindly operator who
has no tinge of mesmerism, spiritualism or
worse isms about her, who does not try to
hypnotize and "gain an influence" over you
slyly, who does not try to delude you into
keeping bits of magnetized paper in your
pocket, or to believe in receiving treatment
from her when she is hours distant. A good
masseur wants to be neutral as possible, and
confine herself to the mechanical work of
rubbing, with all good will it is true, but
without using her "will power" as she will
call it, making an impression. The calling
of masseur, bath attendant and cosmetic
praciitioner generally offers a wide field of
occupation for women of which they should
be glad. The work does not require great
gifts or education so much as natural in
telligence, training and thorough honesty.
No other business in the world is so much
in need of sterling integrity to redeem it and
make itwhat it once was, one of the higher
arts ol the world.
HONEST PKACTITIONEP.S WANTED.
Who were more honored than the teachers
in the gymnasia of the Greeks, and the
gymnasia included all the toilet, from hair-
dressing to the toenails? The great physi
cians of antiquity considered cosmetics as
seriously as any part of medicine, and left
prescriptions for the complexion which can
hardly be improved npon. Arabian physi
cians," learned monks and doctors of the
Itenaissance did not at all deem it out of
their line to transcribe precepts lor preserv
ing the beauty of women or to compound
cosmetics for qneens and court ladies. It is
to be wished that young women of intelli
gence and good principles would enter this
calling of cosmetic art, so acceptable, so
necessary to the health of women, and so
profitable withal.
It is sure to be a failure in the hands of
charlatans, but a few honest practitioners
with a real knowledge of the skin and its
needs would soon put these to rout. True
cosmetic art is death to paints, powders and
corrosive washes. It uses lotions and po
mades where in more critical skin disorders
the doctor uses poultices and plasters. Hy
giene is its great resource, in all its exten
sions, aud the hot bath is its magic.
BErLIES TO CORRESPONDENTS.
Alice desires to know what to do for a
rash on her arms dry, tiny red pimples,
which cam'; first a year since and is
steadily spreading. She bathes in tepid
water with tar soap, eats Graham bread and
walks two miles daily, besides leading a
busy life. Such a continuous inflammation
calls for the care of a physician at once.
What are doctors good for if not to dispel
such visitations?
It is barely possible the irritation may
come from the use of tar soap, which, bene
ficial to many skins, is almost poisonous to
others. It is impossible with such slight
description to give any opinion, and I only
mention the case to urge upon readers the
danger of allowing any' affection of the skin
to progress a year or a month without
medical attention. If any rash is caused by
wrong soaps or dyed flannel that is easily
determined by leaving them off a while,
when the trouble cures itself. If it con
tinues one may prevent tedious disease by
prompt medical care.
CHECKING COLD SORES.
Olive and Kate and all the other girls
arc informed on pretty good authority that
cold sores can be checked by applying diluted
ammonia frequently when they are first felt.
Add ammonia to half a cup of water, drop
by drop, testing it on the sore till the dilu
tion is as strong as one can bear. Wet the
sore every five minutes or often as possible
till it begins te fade.
Numerous inquiries come about the vir
tues of popular nostrums for bleaching the
face and removing superfluous hair. As I
never use any of these things and do not
spend my time testing all the patent cos
metics in the country, I really cannot pro
nounce on their merits. As a" rule shun all
cosmetics heralded in showy phrases. Some
misapprehension existing as to the ability
of a writer to study, furnish newspaper arti
cles, carry on the usnal operations of life
and write light, lengthy letters to any wom
an who desires, I must remark that there
are but 21 hours in my day, and I manage
to fill 14 of them working at full speed com
monly. In addition to this I am, among
other little matters, requested to give one
lady directions for a course of treatment to
regain her lost beauty, case detailed iu 14
pages. Enough is enough.
SlIIBLEY DABE.
WESTEBN H0ESE BANCHIS.
Facts and Figures of How .They Are Run
In the Big Bend Country.
The Portland Oregonlan.:
Councilman Scoggiu has returned from
the Big Bend country, where be is inter
ested in a horse ranch with William Big
ham. The storms of last winter scattered
their bands of horses far and wide and killed
several hundred of them. It Is taking a
long time to round tbem up. As the range
is about played out on account of so many
settlers locating on it and fencing their land
with barbed wire. Messrs. Scoggin and
Bigham will ship a dozen carloads of horses
to Dakota, where wild hay can be got for $3
per ton and oats for 23 cents per bushel.
They will winter the horses there and have
them handy to a market in the spring. Tbe
horses are all American stock, and weigh
from 1,000 to 1,300 pounds. Years ago Mr.
Scoggin and his partners had G.000 head of
cattle on their range and lost 4,000 of them
in one winter.
As the feed gave out, they
took to raising horses, which can pick up a
livinir where cattle would starve, and now
the settlers and fences have spoilt the range "pinch" the curl, wniett has already oeei
J fer horses. Bach b lift In ihi fa?-r7eit,' 6lrolled Into its proper place oVer a soft Uim
wi
1890." ,
IN BEAUTY'S BOWER.
Luxuries of Toilet That Load
the Dressing Tablp.
Down
SILVER THE P.AYOUITE METAL.
Dainty Little Necessities Appropriate as
Christmas Gifts.
THE MODERN FOIBLES OP FASHION
HE many articles that
should be used on the
dressing case of a
belle of this age, the
latest fads and fancies
for boudoir and bed
room and the fashion
able substantial that
should decorate the
table and aid the
toilet ol a diinty fa
vorite of society, are
very important mat
ters. On the cheffon
iere, or toilet table.
5gg says a popular writer
A Patch Cote. in the St. Louis Pot
Dlspalcli, these articles are placed and, to
begin at the beginning, it should have wide,
deep drawers to contain articles of wearing
apparel. A sachet should be made to fill
the space of the bottom of the drawers and
it should be lined with a perfumed wadding
of heliotrope, violet or some other scent.
In these receptacles may be placed the
glove box, scented, silken lined, hand
painted, of course, and so permeated with
perfume, that the
littlegloves lying
in waiting in its
perfumed space
catch fragrant
breath. The odor
of their resting
place gives such
a' d.iinty odor to
the hand, that no
nonder painters
throw their
genius in the de
lineation of my
lady's gloves
aud poets sing
of it. In the CuplcCs Scrap Bag.
drawer, too, i3 placed the ltussiaii leather
boxes, so aromatic, as receptacles for hand
kerchiefs or auy other accessory, and then
thd'sandal wood tray for ribbons and laces
and ruches, and here, too, lie a thousand
little articles that are necessary to the use of
tbe belle; but it is mainly on the top of the
low, broad toilet table that the parapherna
lia of the beauty's toilet articles are scat
tered. The airy trifles on the table amount to a
bewildering array, ahd thongb the objects
seem useless to the uninitiated, each has a de
cided value in the making of a woman's
toilet. On the top of the dressing-case is
thrown a scarf of bolting cloth, which should
fit perfectly tho space. Attached to this is
a depth of Koman or Persian embroidery.
This scari will not wash, and costs over $30.
There is the "washable scarf," quite as
pretty and less expensive, ol linen ground
work, with a pretty embroidered pattern.
Each of these scarfs has to match a cushion
cover and mats. The great central pin
cushion is still a necessity of the toilette
table, and can be ot bolting cloth, satin,
velvet or silk, and nearly always is hand
painted. The "cuff or collar box," as it is
termed, but which really now serves for the
holding of delicate boas or ruches worn by
ma belle, comes in either fashion the deep,
hanging on-: of momie or of satin, or the
close-folded sitin generally in torquoise
blue, over which is shown the embroidered
Roman or Persian designs.
"Cupid's scrap bag" is a capricious nov
elty of satin and ribbon made to catch bits
of torn cards and invitations, or love letters.
In a place of honor is stationed my lady's
powder puff box, which is made of repousse
silver for one favorite, who is highly fash
ionable. This powder puff box contains its
dainty puff, and freight of "Velvetine,"
"Secret of Beauty," or "Marquise," as the
case may be, but the puff box is an exquisite
creation in silver, and thev cost individu
ally as much as 522, if not more.
Perhaps the,, nail polisher lies by the re
pousse box. These polishers are backed
with repousse silver and aro dipped into the
tmv boxes of
silver also
which contain
the rose-tinted
polishing
powder and
the fragrant
unguents now
in vogue. The
manicure sets
rival each
other in their
delicate beau
ty. Jeweled,
gilt and pol
ished silver
W
A Unique Clock
hold each its own friends, but my verv
aesthetic beauty prefers polished silver and
repousse combined for her manicure set.
What visions of luxury these sets are! We
are back at once to the days of "Fabibla"
aud right in the heart of lu'xurions Home or
Athens. The days of plush and satin mani
cure sets died with last year's flowers. My
lady revels in her manicure set.
Bight by the powder box and manicure
set rests that handmaiden of the toilet, the
necessary hairpin tray. Not a little affair
of tinsel paper or worsted, but of silver, too.
Not alone do the innumerable hairpins made
to fasten into place the coils or braids or
masses of my lady's hair occupy tbe place,
bnt always there are also several silver or
gold hairpins, large ones with jeweled tons,
to do best serice in holding the hair. Be
side the hairpins lay silver or gold-headed
side combs, bits of luxury necessitated now
by the fashionable coiffures, which cost as
high as 40 apiece for comparatively simple
ones.
Nearby stands the novelty that has crept
into the "furnishing of the toilet table, the
antique scent bottle, which is a crystal flask
of not very diminutive proportions hung in
artistic fashion on an antique stand of silver.
Near by in the place of prominence is the
all-important comb and bush. These fac
tors in the art of hair dressing may be of
several materials. A superb set is of brown
ivory set in silver, or rather overlaid with
it. There is a strictlv new favorite in the
ivory brush, that is, with an ivory handle
and "sides, and iu its back firmly inserted a
mirror. This arrangement serves a double pur
pose ot brush and hand mirror. The repousse
silver nere Mt-j ania
in as a favorite setting
for comb or brush.
The brushes are gener
ally sufficiently sub
stantial to stand the
careless fling of a hur
ried last touch to the
hair, even the com
bined brush and mir
ror. The ivory comb
has long ago gone out
of popularity. In fact
it norprwas much of a
favorite, for the ivory
teeth broke at the least
hit and at almost tne
first mm through the
hair. Sotheivorycomb A Viniagrette.
did not stay with the ivory bru.-h, and the
tortoise shell comb is strong and effective
and much prettier and daintier, and alto
gether more desirable thn any other kind
could possibly be.
Of course the belle doesn't mind tho state
of the hair (sure of the good results to fol
low) caused by the anulicutlnn oi curhne
and frizzing iron, which are in a drawer if
the dressing table also and are of various
sorts and sizes. There are tongs which'
have round flat ends and are used to
"pinch" the curl, which has already been
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paper, that the heat may better penetrate
the paper. These are used for flat curls,
sometimes for thejlufly bangs. Then there
is the long iroii on which tbe hair is wound
and held for a moment, after it is heated.
Then a pair of tongs, one side of which is a
round rod, and the other a hollow into
which the hair wound on the other side
is pressed and held. A small, special size
of the latter is used to curl the hair at the
back of the neck. This is much the same
as the new electric comb, which, when
heated, can effectually curl the front
hair and side bancs of the prevailing
short hair bangs. The tongs are heated
over the smokeless blaze from a small silver
alcohol lamp. There is also another lamp
which can be completely folded so as to be
slipped into the pocket. This, one can
tjke when traveling, orsometimes to parties
or balls, especially in damp weather.
Prominent among the curling accessories
of the toilette is the strictly new lamp, which
is so small that any lady can hold it in her
hand while the curling pro
cess goes on. The small
"alcoholic" affair has two
tubes, one tlirjuh which
the heat of the alcohol when
burning nasses, and the
other holding the "irons"
which are inserted in the
body of the lamp and does
its service in curling the
hair while the lamp is held
closely and firmly into tbe
baud." This is an entirely
novel, wholly convenient
and awlully cute curling
machine, and will take a
permanent place on the
dressing case.
The metallic brush is
IlairPinT.ay.
found, too, and is sure to restore tone to the
scalp, remove dandruff, enre a touch ol neu
ralgia, a nervous headache or add a deeper
tone to the color of the hair. The days are
over when the "grande dames ol fashion"
onlv fixed their bair once in eight or twelve
weeks, and for that reason slept at night in
huge caps or calashes, which were made
sufficiently large to contain the great piles
of puffed, "powdered and cushioned hair.
There must notbeomitted the littleincense
for the hair perfuming, a tiny silver affair iu
which scents are burned, whose fragrance
rises in clouds to permeate the scalp and
tresses of the hair waiting in just cleaned
comfort before the final curling and coining
process begins.
On either side of the dressing case stands
the stately sentinel, the toilet bottle, .which
can be chosen from a number of varieties.
They may be great massive ones in the most
unique and superb designs. Another style
of the bottles is of cut glass incased in
polished silver, or more stylish still of cut
glass over-laid with silver. This is
an extremely stylish kind, ai.d
is done by an electro process, the
cut glass bottles
being made first
and covered with
a certain material,
some portion of
which is covered,
the rest exposed.
The exposed part
catches the process
perfectly, and the
designs of silver
iu which the cut
glass shows
through are made.
The cut glass and
silver bottles are
the acme of luxury
on niyjlady's table Programme Case.
Bight by mademoiselle's hand lies her
scent bottle, a vinaigrette, which she may
carry with her if she like. She may choose
one between two kinds, either tbe fiat,
square silver and cut glass or the very new
gold curved vinaigrette, in whose surface
glimmer deep red rubies. Little chains are
attached to each. Then there is her smell
ing salts flask. The flagon of cut glass is as
before cut glass. and silver. Beyond is the
hat brush, which is en suite with the clothes
brush and the powder brush, all silver
mounted and each necessary for a perfect
toilet Tbe face brush flecks the white
powder from my lady's dainty face.
These arc not the only brushes about the
toilet table, either, for by the side of the
dressing case stands the silver handled tiny
"dusting brush," the dainty little affair
that the mistress of tbe room uses to dnst
each ornament herself, trustiug no deputy.
Then, too, over there on the washstand, In
its shell-like stand, rests the little silver
mounted tooth brush. By the brushes on
the dressing case stands the triple mirror.
These mirrors are growing in size and are
of oxidized silver generally. They come in
a variety of styles. Very handsome ones
can be obtained for $50. Not far from the
triple mirror is placed a fan-shaped silver
affair, in which ticks a very modern clock.
Just by the little bonbonniere is a very
tiny box which is provided with a hinged
lid, and in tne cavity ol
which is still another
lid. This last one is per
forated, and contains a
sponge, a small piece of
wadding, which is
heavily lined with sub
tle yet strong scent, and
this ornaments the table
as a prominent accessory,
but is slipped into my
lady's bosom when she
leaves with finished
toilet If you glance into
tbe half open top drawer
you will see a square of
"satin, hand-painted, and
Bay Jium Bottle, in printed letters yon
wiil see the word". "Laundry list." On the
back is a "slate." On this surface aud run
ning down on one side is a complete list ot
each and every article which the belle has iu
linen or siik which needs thclaundry process,
and in it lay the bits of linen and silk
which the belle carries and designates as
"handkerchiefs." Bight over the drawer
is a photograph-holder where the queen of
all this luxury keeps a number ot photo
graphs. The photograph-case is in satin or
in silver. And above all things now which
is dear to her heart is the "programme
case." A most novel novelty which is
made of satin placed on stiff board, com
pletely satin covered of course and hand
painted in cute designs with the words
above iu gold letters or black. "All the
World's a Stage and Men the' Players."
This pretty case is destined to receive the
programme ot each opera or play which
our belle attends.
The little square of sliver, with quaintly
outlined picture, has a square of black
nlaster in it. and can be
carried if necessary though
its place is on the dress
ing table. Not far from
itis thelittle heart-shaped
box where the cut patches
are kept ready for use.
Toward the mirror of tbe
case is the calendar of
ivory where, with the
davs and niontns marKea
In'iilno Vip hells remem
bers in her ceaseless whirl y
the passing of the months
and days.
On one side of the
beauty's table must stand
candlesticks of crystal or
silver, and in the brackets
nm nlapoil fitltpr Tllnk Or
Antique Cologne
Bottle.
white cAdles, wax, of course, that they
burn clear to cive her ample light to ar
range the hair, powder and yes, we must
say it rouge.
On the brass bedstead, on which, per
haps, is an eiderdown quilt of torquoise
blue, embroidered, is a quilt of pink satin
with an edge of swan's down, or better still,
one of white with a flecking of silver
through it.
Midway between dressing case and bed is
a most important feature of the bedroom,
the desk, for the belle invariably prefers
her desk in her bedroom. '
Our modern belle has in her bedroom, too,
her banjo, guitar, or perhaps her zither, or
perhaps still, her mandolin, or if she is not
practically a musician, she must have a
musiobox.
Before we leave the bedroom or luxury
we must see the lovely little work basket,
with iti naranhernalia of silk and silver,
which the belle seldom uses. Perbapsshe
may mend a glove now and then, but it is
doubtful. Yet she embroiders a wee bit
someiiaes when she la tired of reading.
11
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GIRLS SEED NER7ES.
A Keserve of Jital Force More Keces
sary Than for Boys.
JtFLIAN HAWTHORNE'S POINTERS.
Physical Culture as a Fad is Too Unreliable
to be of Any Use.
BATDIXG IS SUNLIGHT AND WATEE
A general physical regeneration is hardly
to be expected in American women, writes
Julian Hawthorne in the New York Herald.
Nevertheless, there is a way where there is
a will, and as a matter of fact a great many
women do give attention to physical train
ing, and spend considerable time at it, too.
They ride, play tennis, fence, "vant" and
take Turkish baths and massage treatment.
Actresses, whose livelihood largely depends
upon their bodily comeliness and condition,
were the first to take up these things; and
the circumstance that tbe stage has of late
been approaching nearer and nearer to
society and that certain women of society
have gone on the stage, has made such train
ing more or less fashionable.
But though actresses have the time for it,
because it is part of their business, and
wealthy women in society, because it is as
good a way of killing time as another, most
women have neither the time nor the facili
ties. They cau not ride, because they have
no horses; nor fence, because they have no
fencing masters; nor take Turkish baths, be
cause only large cities have them and they
are expensive. They might play tennis,
perhaps, but to do so to any effect takes
nearly all a morning or an afternoon. For
you must wear a tennis dress, and go some
distance to the tennis grounds, and wait for
your turn at the courts, and play an hour at
least and then get home and change your
clothes. Moreover, you can play tennis
only in summer, and by no means every day
even then.
DON'T DEPEND OS A PAD.
A great many things that are easy
enough theoretically are impracticable in
pnetice, because our environments the
daily habit and tenor of our lives are
against them. There is a point to be noted
here. Nothing is so fickle as fashion, and
it is probable that the present athletic fad
among fashionable women will not last.
Each'oneol them follows it chiefly for the
reason that her friends do so, and not from
anv sense of duty to herself. Therefore the
first thing to do in order to get healthy
bodily development is to cultivate your
will and your sell-respect, andnot to cease
to do what you believe to be right became
other people are remiss. To be conscien
tious is not easy, but it is contagious, and
if you take a stand lor yonrselr you will
have the pleasure of seeing that yon have
confirmed and stimulated many wavering
spirits.
What your young ladies are after is not
brain and muscle to match your brothers at
school and college, but good nerves, sound
digestion, quiet sleep and a general vigor
and freshness of the bodily powers and
functions. A reserve of vital force is even
more essential to a woman than to a. man,
and your main attention should be devoted
to maintaining and increasing that. You
may do it very easily, for it involves ab
staining certain habits that you now indulge
in, rather than learning anything new. In
all you must keep up an enthusiasm forim
provement to become better to-day than
you were yesterday. That is the secret of
success. There is little use in working
against the grain. Bnt instead of stopping
work because it is against the grain you
must compel the grain to go the way of
wort.
GOOD EULES FOE TVISE GIELS.
Once at least every day water should
touch everv part of your skin, and every
part should be rubbed till it is rosy with a
towel or brush. The water need not be cold,
it should not be, unless the heat of the room
or the season makes it agreeable. You can
bathe and rnb vourself thoroughly in ten
minutes, including the use of soap. Do not
be afraid to use good soap on your face. If it
makes your face shiny it is only because
you have not rubbed "it dry. Apply friction
lightly and briskly with the palms of your
hands and the shine will disappear.
If during the day you get into a perspira
tion never let the perspiration dry on your
skin; take off your clothes and rub yourself
with a towel. Perspiration cools the sur
face of the skin and sends the blood inward.
If it dries so you get a chill, but if you rub
yourself the blood returns to tbe surface and
ihen you are safe. Sun and air are as good
ior the skin as water. If yon can find means
of "tanning" yoursell from head to foot in
the sun so much the better. Clothes are a
necessary misfortune in our climate and civ
ilization, but to be without them for half an
hour every day would be good for you, if
you can so arrange matters.
SLEEP TVlin TVKTDO'WS OPEK.
Make a habit of drawing your breath deep
at every inspiration. You can begin this
when you aie working indoors; by and by
you will be able to do it all the time. Bnt
you cannot breathe propcrlv with corsets on.
You will have to choose, I am afraid, be
tween good lungs and stylish corsets. You
can have no idea until you have tried it
what a relreshment and strengthening this
deep breathing gives. It is to your inside?
what bathing is to yonr outside. You will
soon find that fresh air is a necessity to yon
and you wiil take care 10 have your rooms
well ventilated, especially your bedroom.
Cover yourself up well in bed, but sleep
with vour window wide open, no matter how
cold ft is. .
When you sit down sit upright. Jiever
let the contour of your back be convex.
Keep the distance between the hips and the
top of your ribs as long as nature will allow.
Your interior organs need all the space they
can get, longitudinally as well as latitudi
nal! v. You will find it hard not to "slouch"
at first, hut stick to it; get up and walk
about if it becomes too wearisome. When
you lie down in the daytime lie flat; don't
prop yourself so that you are half lying,
half sitting. Never heat your spine with
feather pillows or cushions. Keep your
spine and all that region cool, and the cir
culation of your blood will keep it warm.
If you lie on a sofa let it be on a cane bot
tom sofa or of some non-heating material.
The great nerve centers in yonr back must
be kept fresh and healthy. Never read when
you are lying down, but only when you are
sitting erect.
"WHEU" TO EAT XXDIGESTIBLES,
When you are faint from lack ol food, or
from nervous wear and tear, don't get in the
habit of patching yourself up with tea; itis
no better for you than brandy is for your
brother. It borrows from Peter to pay Paul
and ends by robbing both. To eat a few
nourishing things is better than to eat a lot
of things poor in nutriment. In summer
eat less meat. Pastry will do you no good,
and too much of it will do you harm. Why
not give yourself all the chances yon can to
be well? It is contemptible to lower your
tone ot health just because some unwhole
some thing tastes good. Yet you are not to
be an ascetic in diet by any means. But re
member that the best time to eat unwhole
some things is not when your appetite is too
squeamish to eat anything else, but when it
is strong enough to eat anything. Then
there is a chance of yonr digesting the stuff,
aud that is the main thing.
And now, as to exercise, take all you can
get, but never carry it to the point of
fatigne, and take all yon can in-the open
air, or in pure air at any rate. Gentle ex
tension movements of arms, legs andbody
are tbe best; no heavy weights, no violent
exrrtions. But go thrqngh a regular series
every day, if only for 15 minutes. There is
an immense difference between 15 minutes
and nothing at all. Be ambitious, but be
prudent, and by and by yoni an" J00
daughters after you,-may revive the perfect,
typo of womanhood.
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