I'
20
SITTING FOR A PHOTOGRAPH.
Clara Belle Gives Away Some Secrets That
the Beauties May be Glad to Know One
of the airAllister Set's Fads Fooled by a
Face.
fCOJlKEsPONDENCE Or THE DISPATCH. 1
Kew Yoke, November 1.
LL- the McAllister
girls are just now
learning how to be
photographed beau
tilully and trickily.
Have yon observed
and wondered how
well the actresses
(manage to look
when the eye of the
I camera is foensed
Son them? Veil, I
'can tell yon how to
do it as well as they
do. First, choose an artistic photographer.
Xo matter how much vou know about what
you want and what to wear, there are mat
ters of view and light and shade for which
yon must depend absolutely upon him. But
he will not be able to advise you how to
"make up" yonr face, and will probably
sweepingly object to any of it. That is
where he is mistaken. If he were wise he
would know how to pose a girl, and then
with a bit of white and a bit of black chalk
make her lovely for that view. Several of
the XewYork photographers do this for
actresses, and it is from a well-known come
dlenne that I get the information which I
am writing out.
The stock pose into which photographers,
on general principals put victims over
whom they don't intend to bother, is "three
quarters," which is an abomination to most
faces. There is small chance for expression;
the eye gets no show at all, and the contour
of the cheek, which is seldom beautiful ex
cept in children and child-beauties, is be
trayed. You will find they have a rooted
objection to "full face" positions. I have
never been able to discover why. I suppose
there is a tendency to raise one eyebrow
higher than the other, or look cross-eyed;
but it is his business to look out for that,
though, and stop, if the picture of your
features begins to wander around vour lace.
Extending; the Eje Lashes.
Xow, in painting a lace for photography,
according to the expert authority which I
am quoting to you, the eyes can salely be
made up a great deal. Put black under the
eye, only don't let it be just one heavy
black line. Shadow it out soltly, Blacken
the lashes as much as they will stand only
don't let them be lumpy. Increase the ap
parent length and sweep of the upper lid,
by which the size of the eye is judged, with
a line continuing the line of the lashes, and
a parallel one continuing the line of the
crease that shows above when the eye is
open. Draw these only as long as can be
done without their showing as lines.
The actress showed to me a clever picture
in which the effect of very long lashes is given
by lines presumably shadows thrown by
said lashes painted above the eye, just un
der the eyebrows. Use red verv carefully..
Your lips probably need painting into an
improvement upon their own shape. Do it
sottlv, and with very faint red. Bed takes
black. Look carefully, and you will trace
a hard line about the lips ot manv actress'
photographs. Sometimes you don't need to
look carefully. If you want a dimple to'
show specially, you can heighten its light
and shade a little; but unless your photog
rapher poses you so tbat the device does not
betray itself the effect will be a failure.
A Ssmile That Kills.
Having thus accentuated your face, don't
disturb its arrangement by a smile, or
smirk, or any other grimace of expression,
when the lens is opened on you. Otherwise,
art and nature will make a hopeless mess of
your features. But if you have planned an
expression in harmony with the make up,
save it till the last moment. Thfi operator
is bound to grip the back of your neck with
his monkey-wrench, and if you hang on to
your joyful biniie all through that ordeal
you will get something demoniac and wild
photographed to send to yonr friends.
2ew dresses look stiffer in a photograph
than they do on you. Some little old wreck
tbat fits, and in which you feel quite at
hotnE, will secure a better picture olten than
your Sunday best. Your hair must be care
fnlly arranged, for details come out with
startling fidelity. A stray lock that would
never be noticed behind yonr shell-like ear
in real life, spoils ail the effect of your pic
ture. The part of your hair must be true,
even a "tangle-head" must be tousled with
discretion, and with an eye to tbe view the
camera will get or it. Beware of full length
pictures. Kemember what a guy you and
nearly every other girl was in the graduat
ing dress. Think of tbe bride pictures you
have seen, and pause. Unless a dress is
draped very closely either in straight lines
or clinging close to the figure itself; unless
the train comes from just the rieht place,
and is posed to perfection by the photog
- rapher; unless all lurnitnre is removed, you
will probably come out squatty.
Latest Fifth Avenue Fad.
A frequent change of eccentricity seems
to be requisite to feminine Fifth avenue
happiness. Sweitzer kase sandwiches and
beer are the latest whim in McAllister's
-set Berore "Mac," as his familiars call
him, brought out his book and thus went
into the business of a fashionable Turvey
drop, he had talked it up to all his friends,
and had said be intended to print a full
account of his ideas about eating. One
Eight he was dilating on this subject at a
lady's house when a young man present
asked him if he intended recommending
Swisscheese sandwiches and beer to his
reader!.
Kattrally enough, this annoyed McAllis
ter, but the young man went on to say tbat
he had a sincere admiration for 'Swiss
cheese and beer, and he really believed they
should be introduced to the attention of
society. Instantly the hostess suggested
the wisdom of forming a party to go out in
search of sandwiches and and beer; and, as
the young man knew a" most respectable
resort where the best of both was obtainable,
a merry crowd soon started forth. The gen
eral agreement was that it was awfully jolly
to partake of such refreshment in such un
conventional style, and rrom that evening a
sandwich and beer club went into exist
ence. It'h a Ucgular Craze.
So firmly has the passion taken hold of a
number of the young women that they eat a
very light dinner on the nights of the club
1A
uV " A "
rif 1
IVBf
-.. j-. "'Jti- V'TP11 W
meetings in order to do full justice to the
cheese suppers. One married beauty, upon
reaching the delightful little room where
the club met on Thursday nights, called for
a cocktails.
"I do love cheese sandwiches so," said
she, "and I am going to drink cocktails so
as to get awfully hungry. I want to eat
tnree whole ones.
McAllister has tried to put a stop to the
vulgar practice of the club, but to no pur
pose. He has assured tbe ladies that beer
will make their faces puffy and cheese will
make their skins coarse, but even that dire
calamity is not sufficiently intimidating to
deter the girls from their festivals.
Two handsome girls on tbe high seat of a
mail phaeton sped at a lively gait behind a
fine pair of dapple gray horses over the
broad and smooth road leading from Filth
avenue into Central Park. It was 11 o'clock
in the morning. Behind the girls sat a
groom dressed in quiet livery. All this was
in the best of taste, as fashion now decrees
it. The tight tailor-made gowns of the
girls, the large boutonnieres stuck man
fashion on the lapels of their coats, their
tan gloves and their high collars did not
carry the suggeition of vulgarity. These
were thoroughbred young women going for
a very quiet drive.
Xot the Proper Caper.
At i o'clock in the afternoon, while the
park was crowded with equipages, another
finely appointed mail phaeton drawn by an
irreproachable team of bay horses, and con
taining two young women whose attire was
in good taste in spite of its smartness, rolled
swiftly along in the parade and attracted
marked attention from all sides. There was
a clean and extremely elegant groom behind
the young women, and to the casual gaze the
entire arrangement, girls included, was as
dainty nnd proper as the corresponding one
of the morning. Yet a great difference was
there, nevertheless, though not apparent.
Tbe afternoon girls were of the stripe that
is not in the least thoroughbred. The unmis
takable proof of this was to be found in the
fact that they drove in such style after mid
day. Custom dictates with absolute par
ticularity the rules in the matters of walk
ing and driving in New York. A young
woman may be as horsey and showy as she
chooses when she goes into the park in the
morning, but when the afternoon drive is
progressing she must either recline in a vic
toria or be driven ont in a cart accompanied
by a gentleman. She cannot by any possi
bility drive her own horses at this latter
time without being looked upon as "fast"
by every one that is informed in the eti
quette of the subject
Angelic at a Distance.
But let us not be too severe on the rich
girls. Poor ones are subjects for satire, too.
A little sweet-faced, tender-eyed girl, with
an older and plainer companion, got into a
Harlem train on Sixth avenue at 6 o'clock
one night, and wedged herself in among the
crowd that was packed into the aisle of the
car. Her attire and the little tin Innch
box under her arm showed her to be a shop
girl on her way borne to supper, and her
pretty, innocent looks interested many of
tbe stern business meh who saw her.
One gentleman is particular called the at
tention of his companion to her fine eyes,
and observed that her face was a perfect in
dex ot the purity in her soul. The move
ment of the crowd soon brought the pretty
girl quite near to where the gentleman was
standing, and he leaned toward her in order
to hear what she was saying to her friend.
He thought to hear words of youthful
simplicity, and his heart was warm with
appreciation of such cleanness of heart in
one whose environment could not be of the
best. As he listened to catch the subject of
the girl's remarks the following words,
spoken in a metallic voice, came from her
lips:
A Lofty Ideal Crashed.
"Say, Maggie, I lite to strike a crowded
oar like this when I go home nights, be
cause you get a chance to cuddle up to a
good looking feller."
The soft-hearted gentleman started back
as thongh he had been struck in the face.
As he did so those young, innocent eyes
were turned into his, and he edged away
from the girl in despair. She was wonder
dering why that nice looting "leller" made
a point of avoiding her. She had thought
she was encouraging him coquettishly, and
not a bit of wickedness was in her unre
fined little mind.
And why shouldn't all girls, rich and
poor alike, believe they are objects of in
terest to the men who eye them at every
step even on rainy days? A man who
paints great pictures said to me that the
only artistic figure a modern woman ever
publicly cuts is on rainy days, when she
catches up the skirt of ber dress and flutters
across the wet pavements. Her Doise. and
the accidental lines of her skirts, make of
ner a tning mat can well be studied lor its
unique and excellent beauty. In pleasant
weather she is straight and dreary, bnt
when she attempts to get across a public
puddle without spotting the ruffles of her
skirt, she begins to live, like a bird on the
wing. But it is to be teared that all ob
servers are not so artistically actuated.
Clara Belle.
The English Ulster.
,ew York World. J
1
I
WOMEH IN BUSINESS.
Some of the Faults Busy Men Find With
the Fair Workers.
New York Times.
A man complaining of tbe rudeness of a
woman employed in one of the central tele
phone offices and others whom he encounters
in shops brings out with fresh force the fact
that the surliness and impertinence of some
women in business situations are often very
troublesome and offensive to men. There
are unmannerly and cross men in such situ
ations, too; but there is a certain quality
about feminine impertinence that is some
times encountered which is more galling
and exasperating, and tbe fact that it can
not be resented if the same way as a man's
might be makes it the harder to put up
with.
A lawyer who has employed women sten
ographers and type Ttiters said recently that
he had decided not to use their services any
more. "I find it bard to get them to come
down to solid business and avoid nonsense.
They are liable to become offended because
people coming in on business are not nice in
their manners. I can't insist that every
body who comes into my office shall study
the rules of etiquette before presenting him
self. I found nearly all of them hypersensi
tive if fault was found with their work, one
particularly nervous young woman bursting
into tears when I reminded her somewhat
forcibly, after repeated bluuders, that legal
papers must be copied with ablolute accu
racy. Then, most or them will do crocnet
and other fancy work during a lull in the
work instead of showing a common-sense de
sire to find some wav of using the time for
the benefit of tbe office. And some object to
smoking not verbally, perhaps, but choke,
and sputter and cough it the air gets a little
blue. Their silly lunches annoyed me, too,
eaten in the office, pie and cake and the
like. Others might not notice this, but I do
not like it, and all these things, small in
themselves, combine to stand in the way of
their usefulness to me."
The Newest In Capes.
New York World.!
GEMS OF THE SUITAK.
Order of the Shefekat Given to Sirs. Sunset
Cox and Sirs. Minister Straus.
iwritten ron TUX diefatcim
The order of the Shefekat, which the Sul
tan gave to Mrs. S. S. Cox, is kept in the
National Museum at Washington. It is a
star bigger around than a trade dollar,
which sparkles with more than a hundred
diamonds. These diamonds are set in gold
on a brown gold and green enamel. The
star has five points and there are 26 dia
monds on each point. It has a beautiful
ribbon sath connected with it, and it was
given to Mrs. Cox one night at the Sultan's
palace when she went there with her hus
band to dinner and ate Turkish viands
served up by a French cook on gold plates.
She thought, 1 am told, tbat she was to
hare it forever, but it seems that His. Majesty
only lends such presents ior life, and that
when she dies it is to be sent back to him.
The wife of Minister Straus was presented
with this same order, and I suppose that
she will have to return it in the distant fu
ture.
The Sultan has in his treasure chamber at
Constantinople room after room packed full
of gold and precious stones. There is a bed
quilt set with pearls of all shapes and sizes,
and there are at least two bushels of hand
mirrors whose frames blaze with diamonds,
which have been used by the ladies of the
harem. One or tbe biggest emeralds in the
world is in the Sultan's vaults, and, though
his whole country is bankrupt, be has more
than $1,000,000 tied up in useless trinkets.
A Sealskin Reefer.
Boston Globe.
FANCIES FOE THE FAIE.
Egqsoqo is the fashionable drink next to
vichy.
Tbe chrysanthemum is the flower of fashion
and society jnst at present.
Taste In hosiery Is rather rnnnlng riot
among bright colors just now.
Mies B. L. Day is one of the chemists of
the Massachusetts State Board of Health.
Her specialty is water analysis.
A very pretty breastpin has a center of yel
low sapphire, set about with small diamonds on
an open-work piece of white enameled gold.
xms ureasipin is wurtu bjou.
The dates of New York's famous Patriarch
balls for tbe coming winter season have just
been announced. These affairs will occnr De
cember 8. January 5 and February 0.
JSebvous prostration is no longer the fash
ionable disease. It is dyspepsia, and Princess
Maud, of "Wales, has it. Her distinguished
papa ordered her to Vichy tor treatment, and
now everybody has dyspepsia, and everybody is
drinking vichy.
Dr. Julia Bink is the first woman to be hon
ored by the British Medical Society. MissBink
has contributed some valuable papers to the
cause of medicine, and tbe society recently
voted to allow her 100 to pay for the publica
tion of a pamphlet on "The Nutrition pi the
Muscles'
Portiere is a French word, and there is
nothing about It which should confuse one; bnt
'take notice, among the retailers particularly,
and yon will find In a day's trip of the trade
that views vary, all the way from porcheer to
portiur. Tbe best rules of orthoepy give the
pronunciation portear, with tbe last syllable
taking tbe '" as in the word fat, and not tbe
al as in fair.
Don't call it your parlor any more. A parlor
is a room appropriated to the common meeting
and entertainment of the family. It's neither
more nor less than a living room, although its
meaning has been perverted in England and
America, and it is commonly applied to tbe
apartment which should be termed the drawing
room. In France the parlor is called tbe petit
salon, to distinguish it from tbe drawing room,
which is called salon.
Mrs. Kendal pays this graceful tribute to
Mrs. Cleveland: "She is one of the most charm
ing women I have ever seen a combination, as
It were, of the aristocratic graces of Lady
Dudley and the gentle manners of the Princess
of Wales. It is very wonderful how, coming
direct from school, she held her own at the
White House. It is still more wonderfnl how.
havlnc left the White Honscshe maintains her
sway over tbe affections of the people."
ptwIS
THE PITTSBURG DISPATCH,
UNCLE SAM'S JEWELS.
Millions in Gold and Gems Packed in
the National Museum. .
RARE STOHES FOUND IN AMERICA.
Eellca of Grant and Washington Over
Which Guards Preside.
A FEATHER CLOAK OP GEEAT TALUE
rCORHESPOSDENCE OF TUB DISPATCH
"Washington, November 1. TJncle
Sam has some, of the finest jewels in the
United States. Stored away in his National
Museum at "Washington are bushels of gold,
quarts of precious stones, dozens of beautiful
pearls and china and cut glass which are
worth their weight in gold. It takes four
large cases to contain the uncut gems belong
ing to our Governmental uncle and the
largest parlor in the United States would be
crowded with the cases which contain his
articles of carved gold.
The gems are kept in three plate glass
cases laid on blue velvet pads, and it dazzles
one's eyes to look at them. Many of them
come from America, some are from India
and some have strange histories connected
with them. The jewels which lay so long in
the Treasury Department at Washington
are among them. Prof. Clarke had these
removed to the Museum not long ago.
Among them are the jewels which the Sul
tan of Muscat in Arabia gave to President
Van Buran, but which according to the
rules of our Government he was not able to
keep and had to hand over to the Treasury
Department
SOME DAZZLING BEAUTIES.
There was no provision as to what should
be done with them, and they lay unseen in
the vaults for years. Among them are
two large pearls as big as pigeon's eggs.
These are unset and are as pretty as when
they came from the head of an oyster manv
generations ago. Besides them are ISO
small pearls, each as big around as a mar
rowfat pea and each having a hole pierced
through it. Thev were evidently intended
for a necklace. On another pad there are
130 diamonds received at the same time.
These aretiot large, but they are very pure
and white, and they look like bis dewdrops
as they shine ont npon the blue velvet.
Near by is a wonderful cat's eye ring
which weighs. I should judge, at least two
ounces. This came from Siam, and it is set
in the purest gold of exquisite workman
manship. Amongthe other cat's eyes shown
is a yellow cat's eye from Ceylon and a val
uable green cat's eye from Bavaria, and a
native Indian necklace made of cat's eye
beads. There are all sorts of cat's eyes
from all parts of the world, and one of the
most beautiful coms from P.hode Island.
BASE AMERICAN STONES.
The United Statee is fast becoming a land
of precious stones. Diamonds have been
found in Georgia. Pearls aie now being
picked up in "Wisconsin, and Uncle Sam is
making arrangements for an invoice of some
of them for his collection. There are some
beautiful turquoises in the cases which were
brought by Major Powell from New Mexico,
and these are quite as fine as tbe blue tur
quoises which the Government has from
Persia. Ot less expensive stones the beryls
are very beautiful and there is a piece of
aqua marine from Portland, Me., which is
as big as your fist and which shines like a
diamond.
There is an amethyst which is wonder
fully beautiful. It was found in North
Carolina and is'supDosed to have been used
by the men of pre-historic times. It was
originally in the shape of a turtle, but Prof.
Clarke tells me that it was spoiled in the
cutting. There are also oriental amethysts
and the amethysts from Brazil show all the
changes of that stone from a light pink to a
dark purple.
MODELS OP FAMOUS SPARKLERS.
The models of all the great diamonds of
the world are here, and there are emeralds
from New Mexico and from South America.
Four long bottle green Brazilian emeralds,
of two carats each, arc very fine, and another
which Prof. Dana bought in Peru is over an
inch long. New Nexico furnishes the finest
garnets in the world in point of color, and it
seems to be the precious stone region of the
United States.
A curious stone exhibit has just been re
ceived from Siberia. It is a bowl of fruit
made of precious stones, carved out so nat
urally, tbat one would mistake them for the
original. There are red raspberries and
luscious black cherries, strawberries and
currants, resting on leaves of green serpent
ine which are more natural in their appear
ance than the famed cow of Sculptor Myron,
which was so lifelike that it imposed upon a
living calf. In another quarter of the
museum Uncle Sam keeps his gold in the
rough. Under glass cases there are great
lumps of quartz with tbe gold shining out in
more or less delicate veins. The mines of
the far West are well illustrated, and in
some of the specimens
NUGGETS OF GOLD
are seen. In a great safe of steel, behind
glass doors, there are dozens of little boxes
containing gold dnst, and other boxes on
which there are nuggets of pure gold ot all
sizes from the head of a pin to the size of
your fist. On a shelf over all are two round
pieces of gold as thick as your wrist and
about two, inches long. They came from the
vaults of the Treasury, and no one knows
how they ever got there.
The most valuable of 'the jewels of Uncle
Sam, however, are those which are found in
the relics of our great men near the entrance
to the Museum. These are worth tens of
thousands of dollars in the intrinsic value
of the gold and jewels of which they are
made up. to say nothing of their workman
ship. , There are swoids by tbe dozens set
with diamons, guns inlaid with precious
stoues; and canes which have heads of gold
in which are imbedded jewels which would
shine at any White House reception. These
jewels are so valuable that a guard is de
tailed to watch them night and day. Each
case has a burzlar alarm.
THE GRANT COLLECTION.
The Grant collection is alone worth a for
tune. In one case there is a complete col
lection of gold and silver coins of Japan,
which has a wonderlul numismatic value,
as it is the only complete set in existence,
except one in the Japanese treasury. Some
of the gold coins are a quarter .of an inch
thick and as big around as the top of a din
ner pail. Seven of them cost $5,000, and
there are perhaps a hundred coins in the
collection.
In another case there are half a dozen
large elephant tusks which the King of
Siam gave to Grant, and there are six pieces
of costly jade stone given him by one of the
Princes of China. All of the swords pre
sented to him are here, and many of these
have diamonds set in their handles. The
sword given to Grant by the Sanitary Fair
at New York has a solid cold head. reDre-
i senting the Goddess of Liberty, which has
two ruoies, iwo uiamuuus uau ihu sappmres
set in it. The sword of Chattanooga has 14
diamonds embedded in it, and many of the
gifts which be received from foreign mon
archy are of gold set with diamonds. One
of the medals which are in the collection
contain J600 worth of gold, and as big
around as the bottom of a tin cup.
FBEED0M8 OF CITIES.,
The gold articles in this collection would
fill a peck measure, and every city seems to
have given Grant a gold box containing the
paper in which the freedom of the town was
presented to him. The box which he re
ceived at Ayr, Scotland, is as big as a cigar
box, and is of solid gold. The city of Glas
gow gave him a still bigger one, beautifully
chased, and the gold box which he received
from the city ot London is a, wonder of ar
tUtic workminship. Hearing the ensrraving
of the capital on one side and ot the London
Guild Hall on the other.
Then there Is wonderfully beautiful cigar
case of pure gold from the King of Siam. a
model of tbe table on which Lee's surrender
SUNDAY, NOVEMBER
was signed of solid gold, and a solid gold
invitation card as big as a postal card and
about tour times as thick, which was sent to
Grant in a solid silver envelope, inviting
him to a masked ball at San Francisco.
The Washington relics have only a few
silver articles, but they contain many fine
pieces of china and cut glass. Tbe punch
bowl is as big as a half-bushel. Some of
the plates were given by Lafayette to Mrs.
Washington, and the museum has lately re
ceived from the family of Lewis Washing
ton a number ot autograph letters which
have never been published.
A LETTER FROM WASHINGTON.
His camp plates are also here, and there
is a letter in Washington's handwriting in
which he invites some ladies to dine with
him from these plates. It is dated at West
Point, and shows that Washington, though
he appreciated the good things of this life
and liked to eat his dinner off of fine linen,
and liked to drink his wine out of cut glass,
could get along with ham and greens, and
had the happy faculty of making the best
of things. This letter reads:
Since our arrival at this happy spot we have
had a ham and sometimes a shoulder of bacon
to graco the head of the table, a piece of roast
beef adorns tbe foot, and a small dish of greens
or beans almost imperceptible, decorates tbe
center when the cook has a mind to cat a
figure, and tbis, 1 presume, be will attempt to
do to-morrow. Of late he bad tbe surprising
luck to discover tbat aoDles will make pies, and
it's a question that, amid his efforts, we don't
get one of apples instead of having both of
beef. We have two beefsteak pies or dishes of
crabs in addition on each side of tbe canter
dish, dividing the space and reducing the dis
tance between dish and dish to abont six feet,
whlcb, without them, would be 12 feet apart.
If the ladies can put up with such an enter
tainment and will submit to partake of it on
nlate once tin, but now iron become so by the
labor of scouring I shall be happy to see them.
A MILLION DOLLAR CLOAK.
There are a vast number of fine dresses
from all parts of the world in the National
Museum, and the most extraordinary article
ot this kind is the $1,000,000 feather cape.
This comes from the Sandwich Islands, and
is made up of red and yellow feathers so
fastened together that they overlap each
other and form a smooth surface. These
feathers shine like the finest of floss silk,
and the red feathers are far prettier than the
yellow ones. It is the yellow feathers, how
ever, tbat are expensive. They art about an
inch long, and are worth in the country in
which they are found, CO cents apiece.
They were in times past taken for taxes
by the Hawaiian kings. They are taken
from a little bird known as the Uho, which
are very rare and very shy, and very-difficult
to capture. Each bird has two ot these
yellow feathers under his wing, and the
birds are canght in traps and the feathers
are pulled out and they are then freed. There
is a letter in the museum from tbe Prince of
tbe Sandwich Islands who states that it took
more than 100 years to make this coat, and
the authorities ot the museum say tbat it is
worth more than the finest diamonds in the
English regalia.
HISTORY OF THE CLOAK.
This cloak belonged to a chief of the Sand
wich Islands, who rebelled when slavery
was abolished there in 1319. He owned this
cloak, and when he was killed in battle it
came into the hands ot the King, who gave
it to Commodore Aulick in 1841. It still
belongs to this man's grandchildren, but it
is deposited in tbe museum for exhibition.
In another case there are two other capes of
these same feathers, and in another part of
the museum there are some fine specimens
of cashmere shawls.
One of these is about 10 feet long and 5
feet wide, and it was given by tbe Imaum
of Muscat to the wife of Lieutenant Shields
in 1840. It is wonderfully beautitul. It is
made entirely with the needle, and must
have taken years in its manufacture. The
aesthetic dress of 1882 sent here by some
dress reformers at that time is a fine cos
tume of terra cotta satin lined with white
hmere. It is the same dress as tbat worn
.... the ladies of to-day.
It is hard to appreciate the size of the
National Museum. It is growing faster
than Jonah's gourd, and it is now one of the
best organized museums' in the world. It
surpasses any other museum in the line of
Indian antiquities and matters connected
with America. Miss Grundy, -Jb.
A P3ETTY CUBTAIN.
Burlaps Can he Tat to a Very Acceptable
Use If You Only Know How.
A curtain from the once friendless ma
terial known as burlaps, says the St. Louis
Republic, requires only a little skill in
needlework. It should be cut sufficiently
long to allow of a fall over fully half
a yard deep. In this extra length is to be a
strip of drawn work and into the edge is
knotted a deep fringe as the design shows.
The border is simple, and in the looselv,
woven burlaps, very easily made;its effect
will be greatly enhanced if it be lined with
brown denim. Tbe fringe should be made
of brown hammock cord with a knotted
heading and long full tassels.
The body of the curtain can be left plain,
but will be so much handsomer if decorated
that it is well worth the extra trouble. A
simple and suitable form of decoration is
conventional figures cut from brown denim
and sown here and there over the surface of
the curtain. The best finish for their edges
is cording with some of the cord used for
the fringe.
PICTURE OF HELEN GLADSTONE.
An American lady Sends Back Good Im
pressions of the Ex-Premier's Daughter.
A private letter from an American lady
who is residing in England contains this
sketch of Helen Gladstone, daughter of the
ex-premier of Britain: "Miss Gladstone is
an exceedingly original person. In looks
she resembles her father, and she has, I
fancy, his vitality. She is always laugh
ing, joking, telling stories. She keeps the
high table in a roar. Indeed, whenever I
hear a commotion I turn to see if Miss Glad
stone is not about, and she generally is.
She is utterly regardless of dress, comes
down to 7 o'clock dinner in a gingham, and
tor lunches and garden parties gets herself
up to look like the strong-minded, practical
wife of a country minister.
"She seems frank.sympathetic.kin'dlyand
has great magnetism," continues the writer.
"Streams of power flow out of her eyes. It
amnses me to think what a shock she would
be to many Boston people. If she were in
troduced as 'Miss Brown, of Chicago,' they
would pronounce her 'shocking,' 'the typical
Western woman,' a person who must be sat
upon and silenced at all costs. But her big
nature and splendid vitality would drown
their little criticisms, and when they found
her to be Miss Gladstone they would pro
nounce her 'a glorious creature.' "
Billy Florence's Latest.
ew fork Morning Journal.
Last Friday afternoon Comedian W. H.
Crane rushed down Broadway on a run.
"What's the matter?" asked General
George Sheridan, trying to stop him.
"Come on, you're just the man I want.
Billy Florence has just telephoned me that
he has a new fish storv, and thit it is not a
true one. I am looking for an insanity ex
pert." Add 20 drops of Angostura Bitters to
every glass of impure water yon drink.
TTSSH
i -
hBKJKhAi
2," 1890.
POISON ALL AROUND.
Deadly Germs That Lurk in the Cars,
Churches arid Theaters.
VICIOUS COMPOUNDS IN TIN CANS.
A Plea for tbe Old Iron Teakettle
Silver Table Ware.
and
CAUSE AND CDEB' OP HEAKT FAILURE
i whtttes von Tins dispatch.
The common health is tbe common wealth.
Yet taxes, tariffs and trusts together cannot
waste the income of our families as reck
lessly as public and private ignorance waste
their health.
Let anyone try to regain health who has
lost it and he will declare it easier to make a
fortune than to get back health. And the
man or woman who is copsidered perfectly
healthy does not enjoy health as tbe old
phrase describes it. The brightness, alert
ness, the sensibility to pleasure in every
sense does not follow. Tbe very sense of
life in a really healthy person or in one who
knows healthy moments is a pleasure not to
be described. It is one of those things not
lawful for tongues to utter. And why is it
not enduring our constant possession of
which no man can rob us?
ONE OP LIFE'S SHADOWS.
Just now tbe unspoken fear of many live?
is the very real fact of heart failure. This
is no imaginary evil. The heart is a very
strong muscle, a force pump, with a great
nerve supply of this force. But when some
blight passes upon the entire nervous sys
tem, brains, stomach, sacral nerves, and
their joint failure involves the nerves of the
heart, it is a serious bankruptcy.
Too many know the symptoms of this con
dition to need more than brief count of
them. The chief is the constant debility
and the faintness which follows every dis
turbing change. Discomforts, trifling in
partial health, are unbearable, producing
breathlessness, slight vertigo and sinking ot
the pulse. A room too warm, a walk of a
few blocks in the hot sun, a chill in a cold
car or fir el ess room, waiting a little too long
for breakfast, a stinted or innutritions meal,
depressing news, and, most of all, impure
air, produce that loss of strength one leels
from a sudden blow, the sense of tbe left side
of the chest being empty, the laboring pulse,
sleepiness, exhaustion whilst does not pass
off for days.
SYMPTOMS OH1 HEAET FAILURE.
Instead of the heart having a reserve of
strength to meet these failures of supply to
other organs every such draft tells on its
own peculiar fund. In sudden emergency
of fire, accident or alarm the healthy heart
stimulates the whole body, throws a double
supply of blood to the organs, and courage
or indignation make one twice the man he
was before. .
In failure of the heart every affront, loss
or affliction comes to prostration, nerveless
ness and loss of strength withont insensibil
ity. It is a cruel state to be in when the in
sult of a political enemy, the loss by a busi
ness rival, the strain of travel and irregular,
insufficient food for a few days are enough
to turn the balance for invalidism and death.
How qnickly lung or bowel disorder
takes them off before danger is suspected by
friends! Brain workers, journalists, law
yers, business men, who carry the greatest
loads of all vocations, and women without
settled income who must plan and strive
endlessly for a little, are especially in dan
ger of such endings, for their brains rob the
heart continually.
HEABT WEAKNESS CURABLE.
Now, how are we to counteract this de
pressiou? The medicine for the heart, of
all other organs, is rest mental and bodily.
This does not mean doing nothing at all,
bnt not overdoing; least of all. not giving it
anything in the way of physical ill being
to overcome. This must be provided ior at
all points. Food may be delicate and
plentiful, air and sunshine generously ad
mitted, baths and massage do their utmost,
and chilly Bleep for want ot some extra
blankets, or dull days with a poor fire will
so disorder the circulation that the other
cares go for nothing as far as positive gain
is concerned.
It takes an all-round intelligence to secure
the common health. Most people take the
one chance of it that pours out of a medi
cine bottle. Others add to this care about
food and baths, and half care about pure
air, while they take little rest and next to
no sunshine or any cheerful stimulus of
pleasure. Of course, the result is unsatis
factory. There is room in the world for a
new profession. If there were a class of
sagacious educated men or women to go
about and teach people in their own houses
and on their own crounds what is essential
lor health, what is unwise in their daily
practice and point out the risks to be
avoided in the future, such wise men would
be worth heavier fee than was ever yet
paid physician for cure after the evil had
been done.
ALWAYS KEEP WAEM.
The first necessity to restore an impaired
heart, or weakness of auy kind, he wonld
say is warmth. With all worship of pure
air, whose value is not to be overrated, the
prime necessity for human existence is
warmth warm -clothing, warm houses,
warm beds, warm offices and warm railway
cars and waiting rooms. With the arrears
of last winter's disease to make up tbe com
ing winter, the present autumn calls for
plenty of flannel and fire. This subject de
mands an article for itself. So instinctive
is the demand for heat that it hardly needs
the discussion which must be giveu to pure
air, which the general ill health makes at
present of more than ordinary vital import
ance. Nothing more seriously affects a dis
abled heart than impurity of the atmos
phere. A sleeper will often awake and re
main sleepless hours, because the air in the
room has become vitiated. Open the win
dows, air the room thoroughly and set the
ventilation right, ana be drops into an un
broken slumber.
In public halls and vehicles the oppres
sion of foul air is insupportable, and
amounts to direct poisoning ot the enfeebled
organ. A heart seriously weakened, if kept
in pure, warm air, fed with delicate, nour
ishing food and kept from fatigue and
mental strain, will regain strength as natur
ally as we get rest from sleep. It has great
recuperative powers. But a half hour in
the mephitic air ot a traveling car or a
public hall does more to make recovery im
possible than almost any other cause men
tioned. By scientific test and measurement Dr.
Nichols, of Boston, found more carbonic
acid gas, one of the deadliest poisons to
breathe, in a horse car full of passengers
than there was in the better ventilated
Berkeley street sewer. That this is true no
person of keen sense has any manner of
doubt. Though not over strong, I have been
compelled the last year, over and over, to
ride on the platform of the. street cars rather
than encounter the air within, a tew instants
of which brought on dizziness and faintness
unbearable.
PEBILS OP TBAVEL.
How many persons in the cars are there
whose breath yon would care to take once in
passing? Yet by the daily practice of car
management in cool or rainy weather we are
compelled to breathe over and over the
emissions of foul, uncleansed stomachs, ot
tuberculous lungs, of catarrhal membranes
and whatever canker or unwholesome sore
exists in the mouth and air passages. Is it
any wonder that the full concentration sends
tbe head swimming and the heart swooning
with the mephitio gases? Besides, the clean
but deadly carbonic acid respired air con
tains specific animal putridity and a quality
of narcotic poison which is anything but
'salutary.
How much good does it do a man with
enfeebled heart to ride half an hour morn
ing and atternoon in sucb atmosphere? Is
it what a physician would recommend to
strengthen tne failing heartbeat? Is it not
rather a dally administering of malignant
poison, which can have no other effect than
steady lowering of already lessened vitality
with accumulating force. The ventilation
of cars should not be left to the feelings of a
hrakeman, whose only idea is to keep them
warm enough. Neither are tbe ideas of a
colored porter, who can sleep in a bnnk
with the soiled clothes next the heater in
complete comfort, fit to regulate things for
the comfort of sensitive men and women.
TAKING COLD EASILY.
The opposition party, who growl at pure
air because they take cold easily, have only
to be reminded that it is always possible for
the few who are sensitive to fresh air to
make themselves perfectly comfortable by
extra wraps and not force's whole company
to breathe the excrement of each others'
lungs, germs of diphtheria and consumption
among them, to suit their own feelings.
A chilly, coughing person should always
carry a traveling plaid to wrap round head
and shoulders when a gasping company
need a change of air. It might improve his
own health to take a safe whiff of it, but he
has no right to poison others wholesale to
suit his infirmities. The prospect of trav
eling next winter has an added horror in the
proposed adoption of double car windows,
which will make ventilation impossible.
The little traps at the top of tbe door do
just about one-quarter ot the work needed
when the autocratic brakeman or porter
allows them open at all. If the brains of
men were not addled by foul air and impure
food from inlancy they would have long
since solved the question of safe, efficient
car heating and ventilation combined.
ILL-VENTILATED CHUIICHES.
Next to public conveyances the churches
and theaters are the worst ventilated. I
have in mind one bright June morning this
year, when I went to a church whose invi
tation to "Turn aside and rest awhile" had
attracted me, ou a week day. The air of
the congregation, devout and orderly, was
congenial, the service every way attractive;
bnt tbe air or the bnilding, drawn from tbe
sub-cellar mostly, was too much for a well
worked brain to endure, and a splitting
headache sent me out at close of lessons. A
walk in the fresh air relieved it, and I
turned into a Fifth avenue church, hoping
to get the benefit of tbe last halt of a ser
mon. It is a church of great respectability and
wealth, which prinU its musical programme
weekly, as for a Chickering Hall concert.
Bnt whether the aroma which filled its
aisles this Sunday was dead rat or dead
Christian in its vaults, it was anything but
the odor of sanctity. I did want to hear the
closing numbers pf its music, but I went
out in a state of ocean passenger three hours
out. The obtuseness of the senses in excel
lent, stallfed, broadclotbed pew owners with
genuine old family catarrhal tendencies is
something to marvel at. Churches ought to
be ODen daily, if only to get tbe musty
smell out the odor a little boy described as
"a prayer meeting smell," considering it
peculiar to .the place.
OFFENSES OF THEATEES.
As for theaters and lecture rooms, the less
said the better. They mostly have ventilat
ing fans, but use them intermittently, and
unless one does not mind breathing sewer
air throngh tbe acts they are good places to
stay away from. 1 can read Shakespeare at
home and wrire lectures not much duller
than tbe average, and I had rather live like
Thoreau by Walden Fond with pure litera
ture on the shelves and pure air by the fire
place than sit, as I did at the best theater in
New York the last time, wondering whether
I could last out the act without falling off
the seat in the mephitic vapor which
dimmed the sight. The fresh air draught
was set going between tbe acts, but why
couldn't it be kept in moderate play not to
allow bad air to accumulate enough to make
the gas dim?
This will serve for a specimen of what we
suffer for want of good air. When it comes
to the qnestion of what we take into our
mouths and- digestions the risks are more
apparent. Our grandmothers gave up using
britannia teapots and German silver Bpoons
as antimonial colios were too frequent from
their use. More than one case of suspected
poisoniug which came to trial and convic
tion was due to tbe use of a britannia teapot
which had stood unused long enough to con
tract a coating of arsenical compound in
herent in its alloy.
DEATH IX CAN AND POT.
But we are running twice the risk in the
tin cans which furnish half the family liv
ing. The trouble is not more from acid
fruit and tomatoes than from tbe lead coat
ing of inferior tin, such as furnishes the
cheap kitchenware not sold by the five-cent
shops entirely. ilonseKeepers may Enow it
bv its dullness after short use. which no
polishing will banish for more than a er
days. The old-fashioned brightness of tin,
which was the pride of tbe Kitchen, was a
safe thing for health. All darkening of
metal is oxidation, which leaves no traces in
food plainly to- be tasted.
It is no mere oblation to pride which or
dains the perpetual polishmgof silver, cut
lery and cooking utensils. It is a precau
tion for health. Bright spoons, shining
steel knives and taucepans are essential to
safety of food. It is no imagination that
rejects the taste of fish eaten with a steel
knife, the action of fish juices on steel
being instant aud unqualified. Nor is it
imagination that finds the taste of fresh
water from a cup of impure tin unpleasant.
POISON IN THE SEEK MUO.
A German savant lately discussed at
length in scientific journals the question of
the best drinking cup for beer.and measured
by infinitesimals the fraction of lead dis
solved in a tall schoppen of beer of ordinary
cheap tin. Comparing its effect with that
of other materials, he concluded the best
drinking cups were silver, gilt lined; next
to this glass, and then pure tin, which is
less soluble in its contents than lead tin.
The trace of any metal which leaves a
taste in the mouth is certainly one which
must have its effect on the system. All
housekeepers know that it is impossible to
make good coffee in a pot with the tin worn
off. It is difficult to find a good teakettle in
any shape with thick, pure tin lining and
no copper visible. The old iron teakettle'is
vastly safer than one with a copper bottom,
aud the asate or white enameled ware is far
better than inferior tin. Fireproof stone
ware is better for1 most cooking than metal
of any kind.
SOLID SILVEB FOB CASTEB TOPS.
It was a sa'e sanitary measure, unknown
as such, that led families a generation past
to insist on solid silver for good housekeep
ing. The cheap, worn plate seen on most
tables is no less dangerous than the bad tin
frnit can. while the plated caster bottle
menaces life. I learned this in taking off
the screw top of one of those pretty plated
caster stands which abound in fancy stores.
It had been filled with salt for some weeks,
in daily use, and the inside of the top was a
collection of ercen salt covered with
verdigris from the metal. No wonder per
sons nsing it bad been troubled with symp
toms ftf crnetritis.
Whatever you go without in the way of
art furnishings, as you value health have at
least solid silver teaspoons to go round, pure
silver caster tops, whether yon can afford
a stand or not. and silver salt spoons and
butter knife. Don't trust plated ware a day
after the plate is worn. It is not sateto nse
for sensitive stomachs, and those which are
not sensitive to begin nil! become so by it3
use.
WHEBE TO KEEP MILK.
To keep the condition of a household safe.
happy and healthy requires large intelli
gence and unceasing care. Keep the family
milk in a damp, undrained, ill-ventilated
cellar, with a few rotting boards or vege
tables in some corner, or a cessnool just
outside tbe cellar wall or within six feet of
it, where the air can bacK through sou and
wall, and tvrotoxicon'a deadly germs de
velop in 24 hours.
An ill-kept refrigerator or closet with
moldy fragments of food in its vicinity is
just as unsale for milk 'and butter or meat.
Eggs shipped in musty hay or oats absorb
the germs and taste, but looking fair many
persons will eat them in omelets never
knowing tbe difference. But-tbeir systems
know in time. The beef that comes purple
with overheating or corroding in loul cars
is not a subject I care to think about, but I
see it on the stalls of good butchers bought
by nice housekeepers who would be horri
fied to know .what roasts of disease they
erte their families. Bhiblby Dabb,
i--j
LOW-PEICED LTJ
Delicate Dishes That Can
From the Head of a (
A DAINTY THAT GOES A-l
Ellice Serena Gives Some Directit
Preparation.
A KEC1PE FOE HOCK TU&.
rwniTTES 70S THZ DISrATCH.l
In glancing throngh an old-fasbi
cook book, which bears npon its title p
the printer's date, 1702, I learn thr '
"well regulated" families at that f..
calf s head was regarded as a most dr . e(
dish; and one, too, which was evide..jtt
demand on festal or extraordinary occl, f
In its elaborate make-up quite a numb i '
rich and rare ingredients entered, ar rr -was
placed before the guests with vau.t s
attractive garnishments.
At the present time, however, it may bs
admitted that calFs head is not held in such
high esteem but this assuredly is not be
cause it is undeserved. The truth is. that
in this case, as in many others, its lack of
appreciation is no evidence against its
worth as an article of food. As such it is
rich in gelatine, is very nutritious, and is
inexpensive. From it may be made many
dishes which are delicate, palatable and at
tractive. NO DEMAND FOB THEM.
Sneaking of this subject lately, a butcher
said there was snch little demand for calves
heads that he frequently threw them into
the refuse heap, unless he found a customer
willing to carry them away as a gift Many
lamuies wnose means are necessarily lim
ited pay out from 25 to 75 cents daily for
steak whieh frequently is tough and far
from choice, when for the smaller of these
sums one of the finest call's heads can be
bought, and from it maybe made a splendid
soup and several excellent dishes.
Tne edible parts of the call's bead are
varions, both in quality and kind. The
part regarded with special favor is the
throat sweetbread. Some good meat of a
more substantial kind is found on the under
part of the lower jaw; the fat about the ear
is called a dainty bite, while the palate and
the eye part are considered delicious. Tbe
tongue is the epicure's choice of all tongues.
From the calf's head is made mock turtle
soup, which many maintain to be tbe finest
soup made. It is distinctively an Bnglish
soup; and as it is made in Enzland, by
their best cooks, only the skin of tbe head,
with the fat adhering to it, is used. From
it we also have mock terrapin stew, an ex
cellent disb.
SELECTING THE HEAD.
In selecting a calf's head examine it
closely for tbe signs which indicate fresh
ness and maturity. The eyes should be full
and bright, the skin white and firmly at
tached to the head. Tbe bumps or sem
blance of horns should be prominent. Re
ject the head that is yellowish in appear
ance or slimy to the touch, conditions
which plainly tell na that the animal was
killed too soon, and that it is therefore un
wholesome food.
In ordering a calf's head, direct the
butcher to clean it with the skin left on, and
the teeth left out. It should be sawed or
split in two pieces, or a hole should be cut
in tbe ton of tbe head so that the brains may be
removed. If tbe boad Is cleaned at home
sprinkle it with powdered rosin and immerse
for fire minutes in boiling water, when in the
words of tbe old cook book, tbe hair will "flip
off." Scrape it well and cover with plenty of
cold salted water and soak from two to eight
honrs If the weather is warm. If the weather
is cold Zf honrs are required. Daring the soak
ing process change the water frequently to draw
out the blood and to whiten the meat. In what
ever way calf's bead is to be served it must first
be thoroughly cleaned, well soaked, and unless
baked, boiled until tender. It is sometimes
parboilod before baking, bat this is not neces
sary. BOILED CALF'S HEAD.
If the calf's head is to bo boiled whole re
move the brain by carefully catting a hole in
tbe top of tbe head.
Lay it aside to soak in cold water, with a
little vinegar, until ready to use.
Put the bead to boil entirely covered with
cold water, adding salt wben it is almost done.
To give flavor to the meatabnnch of sweet
herbs is necessary with two or three slices of
lemon, a clore or two, a few peppercorns, a
small minced onion, and a gill of vinegar.
Tbe tongue should be cnt out wben the head
is pat to boil and cooked with it and the season
ings until tender.
Remove the skin, slice when cold, or serve
warm with sauce.
A calf's head is usually boiled about two
hours, and the bones should be removed before
serving.
If not served warm let stand in the broth
until ready to use.
An excellent soud is made from this broth
which sbonld always be strained.
Boiled call's bead is usually served with brain
sauce.
BBAIN SAUCE.
Mash tbe brains, add half a pint of drawn
butter, two hard-boiled eggs chopped fine, a
spoonful of bread crumbs, a clll of cream, salt
and pepper and such herbs as may be desired.
FRIED CALF'S HEAD.
Cut cold boiled calf's head m pieces abont
two inches square, dip in beaten egg, roll In
bread crumbs and fry brown.
Put on a warm platter and add lemon juice.
BUOLLED CALF'S HEAD.
Cut the meat from the head in half a dozen
good-sized pieces, glaze with beaten egg, roll in
bread crumbs, broil to a rich brown.
Serve with butter sauce.
CALF'S HEAD SALADS.
Cut the best and leanest of the meat from
the head, when cold; Dlaee on a meat board and
with a sharp knife cut in pieces about half an
inch square.
Add the tongue chopped, in pieces of tb
same size, and serve with salad dresslnz.
Meats for salads should never be minced, or
cut too fine.
Pour on the dressing, quite cold, just before
serving, and mix or toss, with a fork, lightly as
possible. The daintiest way to serve salad is
merely to pour a little dressing on eacb dish
as it Is served, and to allow tbe guest to do tbe
mixing.
ESCALOPED CALF'S HEAD.
Cut the meat in small pieces, place in a bak
ing dish in layers, with bread crumbs and a
tbinly sliced onion between.
Add seasoning and pour in a cupful of stock.
alash tbe brains, spread on top and cover
with bread crumbs, dotted with batter.
Sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Take from the even wben brown.
MOCK TURTLE SOUP.
Take a head with the skin on, soak: it well in
salt and water. Pat to boll in fresh cold water
and cook uutil quite tender; take it out, strip
oS the meat, cut in small pieces, return to the
soup-pot with some rich veal stock, a minced
onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, two cloves, a
bit of mace, salt and pepper to taste, and a
level tablespoonfnl of browned flour and a
teaspoonf ul of batter creamed together.
Boll for ten minutes three or four eggs,
throw into cold water, and wben cool crumble
tbe yelks into tbe soup tureen, cut in a few
thin slices of lemon and pour in tbe soup. .
A stood substitute for turtle fat is fresh fat
pork cooked with call's head about two
pounds Is required. Ihe veal stock is not nec
essary when the pork is use,d.
sceambled bbains.
Soak the brains of two calves' heads for one
hour m cold salted water; remove tbe skin and
bloody libers; divide tbe brains in four pieces,
and tie each piece loosely In coarse muslin;
plunge into boiling water and cook for 20 min
utes; cut them in small pieces and beat in four
eggs, the yelks and whites beten separately.
Pat a lump of batter In tbe frying pan with a
little minced parsley or powdered sage.
Tarn In the mixture and toss about until
quite hot.
BASED CALF'S HEAD.
Carefully remove tbe brains from the bead,
and put them, with tbe bead, to soak in cold
salted water for two hours, changing tbe water
occasionally.
Take out the tongue, cover with boiling
water and cook until almost tender, wben the
brains (tied in muslin) may be added, ana
boiled for 20 minutes.
Boil or steam the head for half an hoar,
sprinkle with salt and pepper, cut over it small
pieces of butter and strew with seasoned bread
crumbs.
Lay it fn a baklne pan, poor in some hot
water, with a lump of butter added, and baste
frequently.
Ii t the oven be moderate and resrnlar.
berve with brain sauce. Cllice Sbbena.
Uothim. do not be without Shlloh's (
your bouse. It will cure croup and wtioonlng
cough. BoldbyJo3.memlng & Son, ul Mar
KNSta
V