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TRUE ART IN DESIGNS.
Hon- Uic Ladirs Aro SuRcrins Trom Kcac
tion After the Late Artistic Activity
Practical l'oints for rurchasers of
X"jbrlcs 1'ancies for Ejrlr "Winter.
TRKiTTt?. ron the Disru 11.1
The feather borders lor autumn will soon
Ihs replaced by wintc fur trimmings, which
will be worn to an extent seldom attempted.
The idea is not unwelcome to delicate peo
jile; fur at wrists and throat adds a conifort
cble cosiness to the olothing and keeps off
the chills where they strike most danger
ously. l"ur cuffs hooked close about the wrists
keen the pulse warm, and borders in front
irc the warmth that is most crateful over
the chest. Many a woman, well clad, in a
liberal house, gets her death by going about
chilly, with a slight coldness in the back
and front of the chest sign that the vitality
Is low and needs care to keep the fires of
life from going lower. It is held in con
tempt to coddle one's self, as vigorous
friends call it, and so she rnns close risk
t pneumonia rather than make herselt
comfortable in her own way. In a Telvet
aud fur season one can hardly help being
sraraly dressed.
A CIIAKMIXG COSTUME.
The dress first illustrated this week is
also an ideil one such as we can fancy
Oaifia's heroines of sumptuous tastes wear
ing on terrace and in halt A plain Aelvet
skirt, with cross over waist, open low on the
breast to show a guipure or point lace
chemisette, is worn with broad girdle,
Oriental j.icket and front panel of Bulgarian
Embroidery in open work ol gold and silver
so cunningly toned they seem like shaded
silks.
The dress would be prettier with the belt,
chemisette and Email ruff only, leaving off
the jacket and frontal. However neb, the
embroidered sleeves rarely look well, They
have a harlequin effect. AVitliout tins
Glpty sort f jacket the gown is of a style
that one would be content to sec a woman
appear in every autumn of her lite without
change.
Two comfortable looking outdoor toilets
are ot the dashing design dear to women
who study dress lor itseli rather than its fit
jkss for the wearer. The fnr or velvet toque
will be everyday wear, and the hybrid vest
ment which tries to be jacket and cape in
DC will be chosen bv girls who need to
snake the inn't of c cry good line in their
figure, and don't do it.
rou ixsinr: eae.
But the fancy couuttrs viith their sets of
embroidered ".civet sleeves ready to sew in
last year's saequc, the pink, canary and
pale blue onnch collars and Bulgarian
work for Christina' are not more interest
ing to nibst readers than the home comforts
in hosiery and intidi wca-. Scarlet knit
vests and drawers, soft as zephyr wool, are
elastic enough to draw over white bodywear
for snowy or muddy days. Sensible women
are raakiHe knickerbockers of the fine,
pretty striped flannels usuallvmade up for
Moraine gowns, l.i their way thee are bet
ter than niot things I lade ror us of late
yaare fine a the expensive Trench flannels,
in very prttty narrow strii1-, and being
mixed cotton and wool, neither shrink nor
fade.
One is grate ul to find such satisfactory
material for cowas and petticoats, children's
dresses and winter drawers at the moderate
price o 37 cents, ayiru vide. 'Ihe camel's
hair series and cheviots at 55 ana zG a yard
do not ofier ne irly as pood qualities lor
their price. They are coarse, shaay, at
tractive as so much bed blanketing, and the
warst is they wear three or four years with
out change, which is no recommendation.
FICDKCT) SIVTEllIALS IK VOCTJE.
Figured materials are iu high fashion,
notealy in the expensive silks, chinee and
printed, but in cashmeres and French
twilled flannels for stre-t wear and delaines
or alpacas for honse. Tne tiresome wafer
jd helf-niooH figures give wav to the!
beautiful, old-iashioned bouquets an colors
3rc or less natural aud Sural stripes. Of
course nothing like paniers or overdrapery
is to lie thought oi, and th simnle, gath
ered gowns with fu'l l! unc:on the skirt
are so pretty one wishes them lasting favor.
The efcowy silks for evening in white or
cream grounds, with gorgeous pattern,
partly chinee and partly in velvet relief,
i&re not good choice even for the stage.
Such a drets 3een once is never forgotten
snd grows commonplace in three times wear
ing. Theflnwc .vnd lnuqut designs must
ie oiiest tn size not due ifltetive. Well
Mmiifd.'ol just that mi.' winch gnes ini
preMiofl ol their beauli.ul color, without
ttawping it on the eye, a bouquet gown is a
pleasure forever.
POYEETr OF DKESS DESIGNS.
It is a sin to make or print an inferior
pattern when a good one is so long valued.
"With all the fuss oer tcbools o design, the,
work 'Oiiioul ' i" the i -t ones is doubt
lullydeMi IU. A uiudov, uf unfcidis I a
sicht to turn one's ejes from. Tne exhibi
tion of last year seems followed by a reac
tion nf demn which sinks into dreariness.
ffLose spring, acanthus and prickly poppy J
lysrTTSvW
leaf patterns up and down a neb. silk re
mind one of horned frogs and dragon fins,
or stinging, ill-mannered and worse scented
coarse weeds, which possibly do for the
border ot a Flemish tanestry, but are not
the ideas to associate with women's gowns.
It is a very plain law of taste that noth
ing disagreeable should ever be figured in
human surroundings. Such inflictions are
the accidents of rude growth, but it is our
privilege to banish the most distant hint of
them from our houses our wall paper and
cushions and carpets oi our women's and
children's dress If crude or debased-(Jothic
or Florentine ta.le chose for its patterns the
dock and thistle leaves which crew rank at
the foot of castle walls, when gardens were
scarcely known, it is not for us to follow
their poverty of design.
KEED KOI ACCEri MISTAKES.
It is our fortune to select what was best in
the work of earlier art without accepting its
mistakes" and propagating its blunders. So
every Daiiy or Dorothy who is careful to
choose her gowns of the prettiest figure and
fashion dots her part for encouraging good
designs and better art. The flowered dresses
preserve the garden charm for us.
"When Delia comes down in her French
flannel house dress of material firm and
finished like amazon cloth in those rich col
ored stripes which repeat the hues of dahlias
and Brompton stocks and choice asters, she
brings a hint of pleasure with her which all
eyes gratefully acknowledge. Or when she
goes tripping out in visiting dress of fine
Henrietta cloth, whose printing is one of
the choice effects of the trade, where small
rich roses glow on the dark ground in clus
ters of Provence and Prince ot Morocco to
gether, deep rose and red, the plain velvet
jacket and bonnet set off a costume so de
licious that one would follow her a street's
leucth to look at it. Such a toilet betrays
acute sense of the becoming, the sufficient.
EEEOKS IK TASTE.
Another young woman, who lacks taste,
takes a figured gown with lighter Ground.
She trims it, perhaps (fatal mistake), in- I
sieaa oi leaving its uoweren neauties to tali
in long pleats, aud she mounts it with one
of those new French bonnets, which come
iu three pieces, with the animal, vegetable
and mineral kinaoms under contribution
for garniture, and wears a frogged military
coat with iu Then she looks like the over
dressed joung lady and nothing else
neither chic nor distinction about her.
"Greta" wants to know what she will buy
for outer wraps, not to be expensive, as she
has a narrow income, and wants to devote
part of it to taking lessons next winter.
Yet she wants to look jaunty and not betray
economy, though cannc less to tollow ultra
styles. "Is the military coat, figured in the
last Bazar, desirable iu her case?" Any
thing but desirable, to answer the last
question first It will do for Tuxedo girls,
who carry half a dcien different jackets
every r- .s n. aud wall wl.o:.i $0 or SCO or
a new wrap-Is a bagatelle.
SATE BULES TOE CHpOSIJJG.
One word to. those who would selec
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choose cloaks or jackets with as few seams
and pieces as possible. The less thick cloth
is cut up the better, and sacques with six
pieces in the bact or separate skirts never
look as well or give the satisfaction of
simpler models. There is a "pretty short
jacket sold in very dark and fine plush,
nearly as handsome as "black seal," though
not imitating it, which goes well with any
costume. The fronts lap a little, giving
wrmth to the chest; the collar sets closely,
with very small lapel, and the skirt is
straight without being clbmsy. This is as
well made as anything at $20. Beside this
iave a lone cloak of verv light or dark
cheviot; if light with high cloth collar
not too flaring if it is to see another season
fitted under the arms with no dart.
For sheer economy and good style a
Cheviot cloak of darkest blue, black or
heather purple, with detachable cape lined
with fleecy flannel of warm, rich plaid,
finished by velvet collar, inside cuffs and
girdle, will be admirable while it lasts. The
soft flannels are used for linings on account
of their Tich colorings, which give pic
turesque relief to plain mantles.
NOVELTIES INCUEISTMAS GIFTS.
The newest work for Christmas gifts com
'bincs tinted Lid and chamois with velvet
for writing and toilet cases. Delicate stone
tints of chamois and blush kid have sketchy
flowers and fignres painted for the tops of
these cases, the rest being rich colored
velvet. Men's shaving cases, and long cases
for neckties and fine braces, are made in this
way. Excellent presents are blankets of the
rough silt crash, embroidered in brilliant
colors with cross stitch.
This crash, it will be remembered, is en
tirely of waste silk, exactly like coarse
Kussia crash, onlv 20 cents a yard. But as
it is pure silk it forms very, warm, light
coverings lor rheumatic persons or for the
extra blanket one needs to be provided with
dn boarding houses. The crash is joined by
stripes of embroidery in Eussianstyles, and
one thickness is as warm as a pair of com
mon blankets. It also makes good, "big
coverlets for children's and men's rooms.
The crash washes like linen, and if washing
silks are used for the work the result is
handsome and lastinsr.
ABOUT CUKTAIK MATERIALS.
Mrs. B. wants something warm, handsome
and durable for winter curtains, that will be
cheap and admit cleansing at home. Cor
duroy velveteen is coming into use this year
for upholstery and draperies among "art
people," and it combines many good quali
ties. So far from being a cheap imitation,
it stands on its own merits of substantial
make, strong colors which defy sunlight,
ability to endure washing when necessary,
which is seldom, the cotton absorbing odors
and holding dust far less than woolen or
silk draperies.
Do not confound this with thecotfon flan
nel curtains which are printed in such rich
colorings, only to fade in a Beason. The
corduroys and velveteens at 75 cents and SI
a yard are really the cheapest heavy up
holsteries sold, their color and substance
being nearly indestructible.
It is advisable to buy all these new things
as early as they come in vogue, as a season
or two sees a failure in quality, to meet the
vulgar demand for cheapness. It is worth
while to line the corduroy with washing
silk, which is sold at 40 cents a yard, in the
popular colors. As both are washing ma
terials the old feeling against using silk
and cotton does not hold.
Shihlet Dake.
LONDON BELLES? STIMULANTS.
A Medical "Writer Sajs They Take Entirely
Too Much for Their Nerves.
As for drinking with the fashionable wom
an in Fngland, writes a London medical
woman, the result of the appalling and per
petual strain and'the continual late hours
cause her to waken unrefresbed in the morn
ing, and as she has no desire for breakfast,
hock and seltzer take the place of tea, and a
gla'-sofportis frequently taken about 11
o'clock to strengthen her for her ride. There
is more wine at lunch, and at the fashiona
ble teas rich cakes and sweets and hearty
sandwiches, with frequently a glass of wine;
wine azain at dinner, and again at the late
supper, and perhaps a glass of whisky to go
to sleep on. So you see she consumes quite
enough of wine without any secret stores of
it in her apartments.
Eau"de Cologne aiid sal volatile are con
sumed in their peculiar way far too much,
because the tired woman feels constantly
in need of stimulants. It has been said
that English women are not nervous women,
but the doctor accuses them of being
whimsical and fanciful to the verge of in
sanity, and having what our grandmothers
called "vapours," but what we call
"nerves."
Coca wine is quite a fashionable remedy
among English women, aud probably cor
responds with the different sedatives em
ployed here; hut the use of opium and mor
phine is not, it would seem, so prevalent as
among American women, who do not, as a
rule, drink so much wine or ale. Smoking is
not confined to the lawlessnessof Boh emia,but
exists in all ranks, and especially among
genuine society women. A lady patient
of good standing has written to know if six
or eicht cigarettes are not too many for her
girl cousin.
HABGABET AND HEB DEEB.
A Pretty Pennsylvania.1 Girl "Who lias a
Handsome Pot.
cwYork Sun.l
Miss Margaret "Waterman a rosy-cheeked
country maiden of 22, is the mistress of a
handsome pet She is the oldest daughter
of Farmer Clarence L. "Waterman, whose
broad acres take in the hillsides of the lower
part of Jackson Hollow, Sullivan county.
Pa., and her pet is a beautiful tame buck
named Byron. Miss Waterman caught
Byron in the woods when he was a very
young fawn. That was two years asfo last
sprint:, and from that day to this Byron has
never followed anyone except hisfaircaptor.
She teaches the district school, and her
handsome pet accompanies her. to the school
house in the morning, browses in the near
by woodland, and rests himself until school
is out when he canters out of the thicket,
bounds to the side of his mistress, licks her
hand, and walks home with her. Dogs give
Byron all the roadwav, for if they don't he
pitches at them, gives them a clip with his
sharp hoofs, and sends them off yelping.
Byron sticks to Miss "Waterman closer
than a brother, and whenever she goes to the
village they shnt him in a pen. During her
absence he is unhappy, and when she re
turns and liberates him he bleats for joy,
licks her hands, nnd romps about as though
he had been imprisoned for a month.
THE BING IN HIS BOOT.
Unfortunate Loss of a Bridegroom Dis
co cred at Uio Altar.
A good story reaches -the London Tloman
from the somewhat out-of-the-way region of
Petaluna. Early last week all was going
merrily at a very interesting wedding in
the town until the bridegroom was called
upon to produce the wedding ring. In vain
he felt in histronsers pocket for the missing
trifle. Nothing could be found except a
hole through which the ring had evidently
fallen into the high boot which is affected
byvoungnicu ol that county. "What was
he to do?
"Take your boot off," said the parson.
The suspense and silence were painful. The
organist, at the priest's bidding, struck up a
."voluntary."
The young man, sitting on the altar rails,
removed his boot, the ring-was louud also
a hole in the stocking, which led the wor
thy divine? to remark: "Young inau, it is
time you were married."
Ben Practices "What He Preaches.
Boston Traveller.
The arrest of General Butler at Pueblo,
Col., on Wednesday last, in order to enforce
the payment of an old claim lo $72 04, re
calls Butler's advice lo n political friend at
Lowell over 40 years ago. "Keep our name
before the people, keep people talkiug about
vou." said he; "if you can't become promi
nent la any other way get into the police
i J
PITTSBURG DISPATCH,'
THE SOCIAL WHIRL
At the Capital Will bo Swifter and
Dizzier Than Ever Before.
MONET IS ALREADY FLOWING.
Preparation at the White House and In
"" Cabinet Mansions.
BEAUTX ADOENED TOE THE COSQDEST
lCOBBERPONDEXCE OT TIIK DISPATCH. I
Washington, October 23. The social
season of the coming winter promises to be
the liveliest that' Washington has ever
known. Thousands of dollars are now being
spent in renovating the bouses of our states
men, and a vast amount of new furniture
and dresses has been brought over from
Europe. Mrs. President Harrison is super
intending a number of changes in the in
terior of the White House. .
Under her directions the south portico has
been repaved. The ojd tilcshavebeen taken
up and some beautiful patriotic designs in
mosaic hare taken their places. Mrs. Har
rison's fine artistic taste suggested these
designs, and the whole is very highly com
plimented. Leading out from the Blue
Parlor there is a huge shield in our national
colors, containing the motto, "E Pluribus
TJnum," surrounded by a deepblue circle
studded with 13 stars, reprcsentine: the
original States of the Union. The ground
work of the portico is of terra cotta, and the
whole is very beautiful. .
r.EJUTENATING THE WHITE nOTTSE.
I dropped into the White House yesterday
and found the furniture of the East, Blue
and Bed rooms wrapped up in their linen
summer clothes. Some changes have been
made in the Blue Boom and Mrs. Harrison is
giving a general supervision of the re
furnishingof the mansion. She is a thorough
housekeeper and oversees all such matters
moretthan the average lady of the White
House. '
One of the important changes made at her
suggestion is the transforming of the Presi
dent's private office adjoinintr the Cabinet
Chamber on the second floor and facing
South, into a family sitting room. This
room is the library of the White House. It
was never intended for an office and it is
one of the most beautiful rooms in the
building. President Harrison will take
possession of Private Secretary Halford's
room which is much larger and better fitted
for his duties and needs. Heretofore the
sitting room of the White House has been
one oi the halls. It was by no means a
desirable arrangement, and the living room
which should be the best room in the house
was in reality the poorest.
SUE VALUES miTACT.
Mrs. Harrison is very fond i of her own
home and of her family, and both she and
the President will greatly relish the change.
As the President's wife she is courteous to
all, and no one is eycr refused admission to
her presence when it is possible for her to
see them. She feels, however, that she
should have some place where she can at
times get away from the crowd, aud she be
lieves in making her second floor home as
pleasant as possible.
I asked Mrs. Harrison yesterday some
thing about her winter toilet, in which she
will appear at the White House receptions
and state dinners. She has a number of
new ones, but she objected to saying very
much about them on account of the recent
sad deaths of Justice Miller and General
Belknap. They are being made in Balti
more and Mrs. Harrison does much of her
shopping in that city. She is so well known
in Washington that she finds it more con
venient to shop where she is a stranger, and
she can go over to Baltimore in an hour.
Mrs. Dimmick nnd Mrs. McKce usually
accompany her on these trips, and she has
made a number of them since she returned
from Cresson.
MRS. BLAINE S ENTERTAINMENTS.
II is a question whether there will be
much entertaining this winter at the home
of the Secretary ot State. There has been
so much trouble in the family that they do
not feel like entertaining, bnt I am told
that all obligatory, entertainments of an
official nature will be carried out Mrs.
Blaine will probably give her regular
Wednesday receptions and her house "wilt
be open on New Years. Mrs Blaine said
last winter at one of her informal Saturday
afternoons at home during the trying period
of her early mourning thatfhe felt it her
duty to smother all selfish feelings in the
effort to rouse her husband from the dan
gerous apathy and morbid grief which so
completely unfitted him tor his public
duties. It was for this reason that she kept
up hersocial connections when in reality
she would have far preferred to have been
alone.
Mrs. Blaine is a very good woman at
heart She lacks, however, the nersonal
magnetism which her hnsband has in such
a striking degree and she does not know
how to make her callers always feel at
home. Her Etifl bearing which she has at
times conies largely from diffidence and from
the unfavorable criticisms which she has
received.
1IEE OWH DEESSMAKEK.
She is a woman of strong domestic tastes
and she has a wonderful talent for making
"the home beautiful." She does all kinds
of fancy work. She is a fine seamstress and
in times past she has saved her husband
many dollars by her knowledge of dress
making. Up to the period of Miss Hattie
Blaine's assumption of long skirts at 15
years of age every dress she wore was made
bylier mother's hands. The lace which
ornamented these dresses and the under
clothing ot the family was knitted by ladias
ofAgustawho were in reduced circum
stances and who were much aided by the
needlework from Mrs. Blaine.
Vice President Morton's family will not
leave their home at Ithinecliff on the Hud
son until early in November. The Morton
mansion at Washington 's in apple pie
order. It has its regular corps ot servants,
who are here whether the tamily are away
or not, and it takes but a few hours to make
the needed preparations for a number of
guests. The Vice President usually comes
back several days in'advauce of hisfamlly,
however. He has quite a domestic turn
and can give directions as to the household
as well as his accomplished wife.
OTHEK CABINET LADIES.
There is no decision as yet as to what en
tertainments the Windoms will eive. They
will be guided by the doings of the otiier
Cabinet families and will undoubtedly give
a number of entertainments. Miss Wiudoni
is the light of the household. She is a gen
tle mandered, unaffeoted girl, devoted to her
music and universally admired in society.
Secretary Proctor and his family will not
be here before November. I am told . that
Mrs. Proctor will preside at her own recep
tions this winter, -t
Speaking of Mrs. Proctor, Mrs. Attorney
General Miller has been spending a month
at Secretary Proctor's home in the Green
Mountains. She is enthusiastic as to the
beauties of the place, and says that Secre
tary Proctor has near hjm some of the most
valuable marble quarries iu the country.
He is still largely interested in these works,
nnd he was formerly president of them.
One of his sons is now the manager. There
nre 15,000 names on the pay-roll of Secretary
Proctor's companv, and the village of Proc
tor Is made-up alwqst entirely ol the etu
ploves of his works. He ftwns'fiOO houses in
this town, and be rents these to his work
men at 7 per month jfplecc.
THE "WANAMAKBE FAMILY.
Mrs. Miller fells me that she has made n
plans for the winter as yet, and Mrs. Bust
tells me that she will be guided entirely bf
the other members of the Cabinet as to her
social plans. Mrs. Secretary Noble had A
rreat niiuy visitors last siuson and
will bYe some this. Postmaster
General Wananiakcr has superin
tended the arrangement of his home,
hw
-jexpected here before ,the middle of No temyjumstances in-thelx Ksptotiye families,
for the vwinier. juts, wanamaker is hot
t'
'SUNDAY. OCTOBER 26,
ber, but I understand that she will give as
many, if not more, entertainments than she
did last winter, and though the Postmaster
General himself savs be knows nothing about
her plans, there is no doubt that the Fre
linghuysen mansion will keepup it3 reputa
tion tor being the gayest house at the capital.
Secretary Tracy is living in his newly
leased mansion on B! street, and he expects
his daughter, Mrs. Wilraerding, and his
grandchild Alice to be with him during the
winter. He is in deep mourning and it is
highly improbable that (here will be any
social festivities at his house during the sea
son. MRS. CARLISLE'S KENTUCKY BEAUTIES.
Mrs. Senator Carlisle's house, is one of
the most charming at the capital. Mrs.
Carlisle is noted lor the number of pretty
girls that she has to help her during her re
ceptions, and she will have Borne of the
beauties of JKcntuckyduring the coming
season. I asked her as to her new toilets
and what she would wear, but she told me
that she had not for a moment thought as to
her wardrobe for the coming season, and she
would decide upon this when she returned.
Senator Carlisle is very well. A life-like
porcelain brooch of the ex-Speaker has just
been completed by Miss Wilson, ot Cincin
nati, and Mrs. Carlisle had this set so that
It can be worn either as a brooch or as a
locket. The picture of the Senator is a
good one and Mrs. Carlisle prizes it highly.
SOME SENATORIAL'ENTEETAINEES.
The annual receptions and handsome din
ners given by Senator and Mrs. Dolph are
among the conspicuous features of every
Washington season. Senator Eugene Ilale
has not perfected his plans for the winter.
Mrs. Hale is, vou linow, the daughter of
Mrs. Zach Chandler. Her mother is very
rich, and she is building by all odds the
fine3t house in Washington. The house is
big enough for a State insane asylum. It
will cost several hundred thousand dollars,
aud Senator and Mrs. Hale will probably
entertain in it when it is completed.
I drove past Senator Stanford's home yes
terday. The curtains were down and there
was no sign of life about it .The Senator is
now in California. Mrs.Stanford will open
their house in San Francisco and will then
go out to Palo Alto, where the Senator is
building his big university. Both Mrs.
Stanford and the Senator are well, and bath
were benefited greatly by the time they spent
at Carlsbad. Tne Se'nator was very fa't when
he left here. The waters reduced his avoir
dupois and he feels, I am told, better than
he, has for years. Mrs. Stanford, on the con
trary, gained weight at the springs, and she
is looking exceedingly well.
SPLENDID SOCIAL TROSPECTS.
Mrs. Senator Spooncr's musical talent will
be brought in as one of the attractions of her
receptions, as" it has in the past. Mrs.
Spooner's house has many beautiful pieces
ot antique furniture. She was visiting at
Nantucket a year or two ago, and she came
across, by chance, a number of quaint old
bureaus. She bought five of these and sent
them home. About this time Mrs. Harri
son, then on a visit to her sister, Mrs. Lord,
bought a bureau in this same neighborhood
which Senator Snooner's wife had not seen.
The two compared their purchase, and it is
a question as to which has done the better.
Mrs. Chief Justice Fuller returned with
her husband to Washington. The two will
this fall celebrate their silver wedding, and
at this theirlaughters will, of course, be
present Mrs. Justice Field has returned
to the city. She has beeu traveling in
Europe, accompanied by her nieces, the
Misses, Condit Smith, the elder of whom
will be soon married to Doctor Wood, of the
army. The wedding will take place at
Judge Field's mansion, and it will be a
grand affair. All Jold, the prospects seem
good for plenty of fun during. the next few
months. Miss Grundy, Je.
WHAT THE GIRLS CHEW.
Composition of the Gums That Are Prom
inent in the Market
New York Sun.l
Three kinds of chewing gum arenow man
ufacturedflavored tolu, spruce gum, and
the small white sticks that were popular
with school children a quarter of a century
ago. Spruce gum is the most expensive,
and the white gum the cheapest
'There is really no such thing nowadays
in trade," a druggist said yesterday, "as
pure spruce gum. You will have to go out
into the country and gather the gum your
self to get it pure. The manufactured
article sold in large cities is adulterated a
mixture of glucose and licorice, with
precious little of the original spruce gum.
The genuine article is too expensive, and
the supply wouldn't be equal to the demand.
The white gum is made of paraffine as a
basis, with glucose and a little bit of cheap
gum thrown in."
The gum that is in general use is made of
tolu or gum chicle or gum catechu, with
licorice and glucose and some flavoring ex
tract. It is boiled and rolled out in great
heaps, and cut up into blocks by machin
ery. Gum arabic was used formerly to give
it consistency, but little of it is now em
ployed because it is too expensive. Gum of
turpentine is substituted. The effort of the
manufacturers of gums is always, ot course,
to cut down to a minimum the cost of pro
duction, and he secures substitutes for the
most costly ingredients wherever it can be
done. It does not follow, by any means,
that these substitutes are harmful in their
effects, but they arcuiot so good as the more
costly ingredients, and profit is quite enough
to entitle the public that cares for gam to
the very best in the market at a cent a block.
WOMEN BLAINE HATES.
Those Who Mount the Stump Don't Stand
Very High With Him.
James G. Blaine was asked by the Wash
ington Post last week what he thought of
women. He smiled and then asked: "What
Bort of a womau'do you refer to?"
"Well, take for example the woman who
mounts the stump to make a political
speech."
The smile vanished, and in its stead came
that perpcndicularline between the eyes
which all Mr. Blaine's friends will recog
hize. "I hate that sort of a woman," he said,
and he said it as if he meant it, too.
"Sheis out of her place. God never meant
that woman should unsex herself in that
way. A woman's power is for love, not for
battles. She sh'ould not enter the 'contest,
but remain outside, an infallible judge of
who should win the crown of victory.
"I have observed,'' continued Mr. Blaine,
"that on great occasions it is almost always
women who have given us the strongest
proofs of virtue and devotion. The reason
for this is that, with men, either good or
bad qualities Are the result of calculation,
while in woman they are the result of im
pulse", and impulses usually spring from
the best that ii in us."
0U1DA ANlJ THE MILITBY.
A Weakness, of tho Author That Shines
Through Iler Heroines.
Ouida is very fond of describing her young
women who smoke cigarettes as adoring the
military,and apropos of thai a story is told of
her and vouched for as truev Yates, of the
Xondon World, had asked her to write some
thing for him, and then after this he was
afraid that ii was going to be a little too
highly flavored, so onthe went to .see her.
There she was, surrounded by her dogs
and smoking, as if it were the keenest pleas
ure in lifei He said to her: "My dear
Louise, I do wish you would write this story
so that it would please the British matron,"
Verv quickly the cigar was thrown awav,
and, looking Yates straight in the lace, sfie
said: "Edmund, I do not write for the Brit
ish matron, I write for the British guards
man!" And Edmund retired crestfallen.
Princesses In Penury.
"Berlin rejoices in a dancing" saloon whose
great attraction is the presence of two real
princesses, one of whom arranges the dance
and the other devotes herself to the manage
ment of the band. They are the Princesses
Pignattelli and Dolgorouki.who are obliged
to take tnese places owing wkuuku eir-
iS
ap"
1890.
CLARA BELLE'S CHAT.
Unsnccessfal Attempt to Dazzle the
Eyes of Two Beauties.
AN OSTENTATIOUS HAN HUMBLED.
flow
Two Charming Uirla Got
Together at the Theater.
Seats
THE1 POPULAE STILiS OP MASCULINITY
COIIBZSrOXDEXCE OF THE DISFATCIT.1
New York, October 25.
VERY time I go
into a telegraph of
fice anywhere in the
feminine shopping
region I see or bear
something interest
ing. Two young
men entered, for in
stance, and discov
ered there two lovely
girls. The young
men, who were of
the lively and ob
servant species, ex
amined the young
ladies with some
care and exchanged
glances. The girls
looked at the young men aud turned up
their little noses. They had observed that
one of them wore a last year's overcoat,
while the other's hat was rusty. They
plainly had no admiration for such im
pecunious persons.
One of the young men wrote a telegram.
After a moment he turned to his friend and
said: "Do you think four dozen" bottles
will do?"
The pretty girls pricked up their ears.
"No," replied the other young man.
'.'Make it five dozen. Have half of the lot
a dry wine and the other half sweet The
girls will like it sweet"
NOTniNO too good foe them.
"All right," responded the one writing
the telegram. "Now, how much Burgundy
do you think we want? Two dozen will do,
don't yop think? I will put down a few
bottles of Tokay, also. Some of the girls
are dead after it. There, I guess that'll do.
I'll order it delivered by 6 o'clock sharp, so
we'll have six hours to" lee the champagne
in. Now, let us hurry to Delmonico's. I
want to tell them to secure an extra lot of
terrapin, for I want to make that a feature
of the supper."
The two pretty girls were verv nervous
and alert by this time. Tney were shooting
looks of wonder and regret at one another.
With perfectly serious faces, the young
men handed their message in to the tele
graph operator, paid for it, and, with care
less glances in the direction of the beaming
girls, passed out, lingering for a moment on
the walk before the door.
The dispatch had been left by the operator
on the counter while he answered a quick
call from his instrument. As it lay there
one of the pretty girls sidled up to it and
hastily cast her eye over it Instantly a
shadow passed across her face, and as she
returned to where her companion was, sit
ting she was bristling like an angry
chicken.
MONET MAKES TIIE 1IA2T.
"Don't look at those men, Nellie," she
saidj"they are no good at all. That was
all make believe about the wine. That tele
gram asks for a loan of 510."
The young men glancing in through the
window from the street saw two pretty noses
held very high in the air, and knew at once
that their genial little hoax had been dis
covered. O, don't think that we girls are unobserv
ant of the fellows, shy asre are. lean give
real news to the dandies. The crush opera
hat is again the highly correct thing for
evening wear. T. LnisOnativia, the pres
ent head of the dude kingdom, brought one
home from London, and it acts as a regular
accompaniment of bis monocle, his white
kid gloves, and his Tuxedo coat when he
soes forth at night to beautify the neighbor
hood. An ambitious yonth of 17, the mo
ment he discovered Onativia "With an opera
hat, dashed off and purchased one for his
own use, and learned from the hatter the
correct method of collapsing it and of snap
ping it back into form. He then wore it to
a first night at one of the theaters, and the
first time he snanpedita nervous old gentle
man sitting in front of him jumped as
though he had been shot, and looked
scowlingly around to see what person had
broken a suspender or corset string;
A DEMUEE MAIDEN'S EEBUKE.
There are all sorts of persons at a theatri
cal first night, and there wan one of the"
prettiest girls in the world there, who had
never seen or heard of an opera hat She
was apparently irom tne interior ot the
State, but was provided with an air of de
licious cosmopolitanism that would indicate
a thorough knowledge of everything inter-
m
7r-
frJtfx.,,, f 1
VTpkina the Cituh flat.
esting, including opera hats. She had
studied the young man and his hat for nearly
the entire evening, neglecting the play at
times in order to deliberate over the strange
performance that she had seen him go
through. Finally, when he had returned
from the street at the beginning of the last
act, the fair young womanleaned over and
said to her father:
"Papa, dear, that can't bs Professor
Hellish, the magician, can it? He is too
young."
She indicated with her eyes the blonde
head of the youth in front The lather
laughed, and asked his daughter what ever
pnt such a notion into her head.
"Why, he does such tricks with his hat,"
replied the girl. "He has smashed it down
perfectly flat three or four times, and then
made it a smooth as ever again by merely
touching it If he is not a sleight-of-hand
man he is at any rate a good copy of one."
There is no possibility of knowing just
whether the young lady was as simple as she
made herself out to be. She had spoken in
a voice that was audible to many persons
sitting near, and her words reached the ears
ot the youth who performed so remarkably
with his hat. He'shifttd about uncomfort
ably in his chair, and it was observed that
when he got his hat into shape for his final
exit he did so with none of the ostentation
that had marked his mothodj in the early
part of the evening. Possibly the young
woman of the beautilul and innocent face
was a critic of splendidly sarcastic propor
tion. BETWEEN TWO CHABMEES.
The funniest feminine thing that I have
seen this week, however, was in an oyster
restaurant, an establishment where the ex
cellence of ,tbe viands drawij in pretentions
customers as welt as economical ones. Two
girls sat with a young man statable where
emptied dishes indicated that they had
eaten a hearty repast together. The dam
Lf els aeemeiTory fond of theiaantiipushj
- rm,
Kir
Wl.m aW
if "ml mm
fflfR
ii IB
'rff
evidently there was no jealously whatever
between'them, each expressing her affection
by a fond glance or an endearing gesture
very slily. The man was good-naturedly
submissive to their attentions; but presently
he took out his watch and remarked that it
was nearly theater time.
"Are you goinc to take us?" his two
companions asked in a breath.
"I can only take one of you," he replied,
"because I have got two seats and can't get
three. It is a first night and the house is
sold out"
The question then arose as to which he
should escort home and which he should
take to the theater. Both put in claims,
and he seemed uncertain how to decide be
tween them. It looked as though a bone of
contention had at length developed itself in
the boneless meal, and the girls flashed half
angry glances at each other, w1 hile the man,
serene and a little proud over the conten
tion for his favor, smiled benignly upon
them.
HOW THEY SETTLED IT.
"Now, I'll tell you what I'll do,"
said
he. "I am perfectly ignorant as to which
of you weighs the most Yon are just about
the same size. So as to decide which shall
go to the theater with me, vou'll get on the
nickle-in-tbe-slot scale and be weighed.
Whichever pulls the scale down iurthest
wins me."
The proposition was immediately ac
cepted by the girls. The one called Lizzie
stepped on the scale first The hand flew
round the dial and stopped at 129 pounds.
Then Mamie got on the scale, and registered
130 pounds. The young man belonged to
Mamie, so far as appearances went, but the
young creatnre laughed when Lizzie re
buked her for weighinz so much, and.
drawing a handfnl of knives, forks and
spoons from her pocket, said:
" "You win, Lizzie. There are two or three
pounds of metal. I couldn't enjoy the
theater without a clear conscience, you
know."
Every story, should have a happy ending,
if possible, and the trnth in this instance
permits it The young man was so im
pressed by Mamie's honesty apparently that
he declared he would take them both to the
27ie Heavier Was the Winner.
theater, place them in his two seat3, and
himself stand at the rear of the auditorium,
a martyr to the demands of justice.
CAUGHT BY HANDSOME CLERKS.
It is a act that it pays retailers in certain
lines of business to employ handsome and
ornamental male clerks, just as much as it
is profitable for confectionery stores to pre
sent the smiles of a pretty girl with every
box of bon-bons. Wemay3oaras high as
wc will in our philosophy, yet the vulgar
truth remains that in the hundreds of thour
sands of women shoppers in New York there
is a large class that enjoys being waited
upon by a sweet-looking man.
"Ob," really, Madge," said a young creat
nre to her friend in a Fifth avenue omnibus;
"you ought to go down there for your
gloves. They have awfully good gloves,
and" (sinking her voice here), "the clerk
is just lovely."
The speaker was a very fair type of the
unfledged society belle. She had been per
mitted by her mamma to go shopping alone,
and at one place she bad bought gloves un
der the admiring eyes of a duck of a young
counter-jumper.
BEAUTY "WOMEN ADMIEE.
A merchant who deals in various charm
ing and delicate articles intended for
feminine use was discussing this point te--
cenuy.
"Yes," said he, "I always employ good
looking clerks. It took me a long time,
however, to find out just what sort of good
looks I required. When I was first advised
to get some handsome men into my store I
cast about to find a fine lot of strong-featured
and athletic chaps fellows that would be
conspicuous anywhere for their mnscnlar
beauty and firnyiess of countenance; but
not only did I find this a most difficult task,
but the fevr examples I could secure seemed
to have no attraction for the ladies at all.
Finally, a friend put me on to the fact that I
must employ au entirely different order of
fellow. I must get a" lot of white-faced,
slim-waisted, perfumed and soft-voiced
chaps, who could look "unutterable things
on the slightest provocition at a lady of any
appearance or asre. J. louna sacn men as
these very abundant, and I now have no less
than 20 of them who are everv one of them
more or less worshiped by the ladies that
come to my shop." Claea Belle.
BEIDAL T0UB IN ATBICA.
Mrs. Itosa Holnb's Adventures With Her
Husband's Exploring Party.
New York Sun. J
Mrs. Rosa Holub is one of the celebrities
of the hour. She is the wife of Explorer
Fmil Holub, and she pluckily accompanied
him in his recent march from the Zambesi
river to the country of the fierce Maschuku
lnmbes. She was a quick-witted Vienna
girl, very fond of stories of African explora
tion. She also had a fine turn for science.
Her father was the head of the grpat Vienna
Exposition. With his bride of a week, a
523,000 outfit and five men Dr. Holub set
out on his African expVTIition. Being a
medical min he had great power over the
natives. He wrought hundreds ot cures,
and bis skill caused him to seem to be a
wizard.
This bridal tour lasted four years. The
bride wore a serviceable dress of stout, dark
cloth. She wore a white felt hat with a
wide brim, and generally carried a sun
shade. Often lor miles at a tinft her trusty
gun was slung over her shonlder, for Mrs.
Holub was a good shot and killed many
animals. She prepared specimens and
helped along in a hundred ways. She was
regarded as a very great curiosityT'but
seemed to make far more of a sensation
among the women than among the men.
Once tho natives, under the pretense of
ferrying the explorers across the Luengo
river, set them on an island in the expecta
tion that hunger would cause them to swim
the stream, which was at that point thjck
with man-eating crocodiles. As for King
Niambo, he gave them poisoned milk. They
fought many battles. Once their camp was
plundered, and all their ammunition, save
300 cartridges, was stolen. Then they hur
ried southward toward civilization. Mrs.
Holub's feet were fearfully lacerated. Her
husband out up bis clothing to bind her
wounds. It was a hard march, but pluck
won, and now the explorer's oride is the
heroine of all the Danubian region.
NEW STOBAGS BATTEBY.
A Horso Shows Maguetlo Qualities After
Being Shocked by a Live "Wire.
New York Sun.
Veterinary Surgeon Sattler is reported aa
having made an extraordinary discovery on
Saturday. A horse was shocked in Spring
field avenne, and was taken to his stable for
treatment. I&lay twitchine in the stall for
hours ifterwaru. Dr. Sattler is quoted as
saving th.it a coiupais held to the skin of
the stricken animal hours after the shock
vibrated violently, and the needle was de-
fleeted nearly 60 decrees. Here is a new
stc-iage batterjt
WH 1
7
S' f ?
x -.
EYEBr DAY DISHES.
Ellice Serena's Becipes for Preparing
Potatoes for Table".
OFTEN SPOILED IN THE FRYING.
Delicacies Hade of the Host Common of
" Grocerj Supplies.
ODD USES OP TUB POPDLAK TUBER
IWEITTES' TOa THE PISPATCH. !
While the potato is ordinarily regarded
as one of the most common of our domestio
vegetables, it U capable of being made into
some of the most palatable and attractive
dishes known to the cooking department
Fried potatoes, like many other dishes,
have been so abused by improper cooking
that they do not find favor at many tables.
When cooked properly they should be light,
crisp, free from greaso and of a rich brown
color not leathery, soggy and colorless as
they are too often served.
Cut cold-boiled potatoes into thin slices, sea
son with salt and pepper, dredge with flour
lightly and farn into a pan of smoking hot
drippings.
Have the pan large enough so that the pota
toes aro not crowded, and keep it over the hot
pare of the stove.
Toss lightly without ceasing until the pota
toes aro evenly browned, and serve imme
diately: Fnea potatoes are spoiled by slow cooking
and by standing after they are cooked.
EOIXED POTATOES.
Potatoes to be served in their jackets should
be thoroughly scrubbed with a vegetable brush
and rinsed through several waters.
Pnt to boil in cold water just enough to
cover them.
KeeD the lid on the vessel and boil unceas
ingly until the potatoes are tender. Unless
they are very large, they will require but halt
an hour.
Pour off any water remaining, sprinkle with
salt and cover with a napkin.
Let stand on a hot part of the range for a few
minutes and then serve.
The old-fashioned way of boiling potatoes
was to plunge them into cold salted water Tied
In a nice white bag."
BAKED POTATOES.
.Select potatoes equal in size, wash through
several waters and put to bake 'in a moderate
oven.
The time required for baking lar;;e potatoes
is one hour smaller ones about halt an hoar.
A few minutes before takingtfrom the oven
press each potato gently until a bursts open
ust a little at tho end to let the steun escape.
SCOLLOPED POTATOES.
Cut cold boiled potatoes into thin small
pieces, arrance in layers, season with salt and
pepper, and if one quart of potatoes are used,
pnt in two tahlespoonfuls of butter, cut In bits,
puur over all a hair pint of cream or milk.
Btrew the top with crumbs, sprinkle over a
little salt and pepper.
Bako nntil thoroughly heated and well
browned.
Raw potatoes may be used for this dfsb, with
a little minced onion added.
Bake 43 minutes in a moderate oven.
BROILED POTATOES.
For broiled potatoes, be careful not to cooK
them too long: they must be tender, but linn.
Peel and slice the potatoes, when cold, about
a third of an inch thick.
Dip the pieces Into melted butter, place on
tho gridiron and broil until brown.
berve on a hot dish, well seasoned.
IKIED POTATOES "WTOI EGGS.
Fat some good butter in a fryinjpan, when it
begins to brown turn in some cold boiled
potatoes cut in small pieces.
Beat up two eegs, and when about to servo
the potatoes, stir them in and serve at once.
EIVELSD TOTATOES.
Preporo the potatoes for cooking, boil until
tender in salted water, tnrn into a colander,
pres through into a baking dish and set in tho
oven to brown.
Tha potatoes may also be mashed and dressed
before passing through tbo colander, or they
mav, in tho other form, be seasoned at tho
table,
POTATO CE0QCETTE3.
To one pound of mashed potatoes add tho
beaten yolk of an eeg. a little salt and nenner.
two tabiesDoonfnis of bread crumbs or cracker
Kmeal, and one tablespoonfnl of milk.
stir over the nre until quite dry. v
Then place on a well-floured board, shapo
in croquettes, roll lightly in the flour, glaze
with the beaten white of the egz, strew with
bread crumrjs and set aside till quite cold and
firm.
Immerse In hot fat until brown, drain and
serve very hot.
SABATOGA PIIIED POTATOES.
The world-renowned potatoes served aj
Moon's Lake House, Saratoga Springs, every
summer, are prepared as follows: 1'eel good
sized potatoes and slice them as evenly as pos
sible: drop them into ice water.
Have a kettle of very hot lard, fat a few at
a time Into a towel, shake them about to dry
them and then dropir.to the hot lard.
Stir tbera occasionally, and wlfen of a light,
brown, take them out with a skimmer.
If properly done they will not be at al! greasy,
but crisp without and mealy within.
POTATO FBITTEES.
Wash and peel two large potatoes. let lie in
cold water for somo minutes and then boil until
tender.
Wash them, and when quite smooth add tho
beaten yolks of four ego and the whites of
three, two tablespoonf uls of cream, a few drops
of lemon juice and a grating of nutmeg.
Beat for JO minutes and then drop by spoon
fuls into smoking hot lard. '
POTATO soup.
Six large or ten medium-sized potatoes, one
quart of milk, half an onion minced, one stalk
of celery or a teaipoonful of celery salt.ono
tablespoonfnl ot flour, one teaspoonful of salt,
one saltspoon of peDOer, one tablespoonfnl of
batter.
"Wash and peel the potatoes, let them He in
water half an hour, and then boil till soft.
Boil tbo milk in a double boiler with the onion
and seasoning:
Drain tho water off tho potatoes, mash and
add tbe milk, pass through a sieve, and return
to the saucepan.
Melt the butter and when it bubbles add tho
floor, stir a moment and pour into the soup hot.
If a thinner soup is desired add a cupful of
hot milk.
LTONHAISn POTATOES.
Cut In even slices cold boiled potatoes, add a
little grated or minced onion, some chopped
parsley, and fry brown in butter or oil.
HASHED POTATOES).
To three pints of mashed potatoes, use two
tahlespoonfuls of butter, the yolks of twoeszs
and milk enough to make of prober consistency.
Let'themilk get quite hot, but do not allow it
to boil or become scorched.
Jlclt the buttec-in tne milk, beat into the po
tatoes, and then add the eggs. Beit all together
until very light, season with pepper, and add
more salt if necessary.
Serve the potatoes steaming hot in a warm
tureen.
SWEET POTATOES.
Sweet potatoes may be cooked after any ot
the recipes given bore, except that tbe onions
and parsley should be omitted.
There aro also to be made from these pota
toes tempting custards, waflles, biscuits, pud
din and other choice dishes.
Bweet potatoes are held in blzh esteem by the
colored "mammies" of the South, aud the sav
in"" among them that "if a teething baby can be
kept alive until sweet potato time, it will get
fat and strong," has passed into a proverb.
Carious Uses of Potatoes.
To sweeten new iron vessels boll potato par.
ings in them.
To keep potatoes from sprouting scald with
boihne water.
An ezcellont starch for fine linens and laces
is made from grated potatoes.
Fotato flour, so much used in French cook
ery, makes fine bread and extra pastry.
Old potatoes should be pared very thin. TJss
a vegetable brush to remove the skins from
new ones.
Is selecting potatoes examine the eye. The
smaller the eve tho better the quality. Spotted
potatoes should be rejected.
Water In which potatoes bave been boiled
will cleanse delicate-colored woolens or worsted
goods and chintzes and calicoes.
SortXD silks are renovated by sponging with
potato water and than rinsing in clear water.
To a pound of grated potatoes use a pint of
water.
Discolored decanters, carafes and vinegar
eruets are made bright and clean by tbe use of
grated potatoes or chopped pearincs. Partly
Oil these vessels, add water, and let stand for a
day or two to ferment. Ztinse well.
Some genii s has discovered that an artificial
ivory can be made from potatoes. After going
through a process, in Which dilated suiphuno
acid is used, they are dried and colored, and
then formed intojarloaa articles, both useful
and. ornamental, .PiT.Ucs Bertt,