g&affii
THE PITTSBURG- DISPATCH. SUNDAY. OCTOBER 18, 1890.
20
tf4
I
FANCIES FOR THE FAIR.
All Sorts of Gossip From Health and
Beauty to Fashions and Fads Good
Looking "Women Take life Easy Kiss
ing and the Teeth.
Try everything you read and hear about
for improving the looks and general health
and then try sleep. As Marie Jansen says
in the "Merry Monarch," when she throws
herself down on a hank of green tissue
paper, "a sound sleep is as good as a din
ner." It is health andlieauty for the body
and the very best preservative of youth,
next to contentment.
The industrial giants of the family will
scream laziness and declare that tbey would
just as soon be dead as asleep. It is the
late of man to bear the burdens of life. He
lias neither need nnr use for beauty, and so
long zs strength and endurance last it is im
material whether the king of the hearth gets
three or ten hours' sleep. Woman's mission
is in a measure dependent on beauty, bright
ness and freshness. Her duty is largely
that of the butterfly or the flower. It mat
ters very much that she be worthy of the
queen's crown, and to squander her delicate
itrength, to waste the perfume of her young
womanhood, is a form of prodigality that
she will rue. Brothers, lathers, husbands
and sans do not like to think of their idols
in a state of habitual inertia, but a wise
woman does a great many tilings with her
right hand about which her left knows
nothing.
Sunday is well considered a day of rest,
and if fair woman but knew it a sleep from
Saturday night till Sunday noon will
smooth out ever so many line's and cares ol
the week. She will miss her coffee, to be
sure, and her church, too, but, says the New
Tork World, there is more tonicin the rest,
even with wakeful eyes, than there is in a
whole coffee plantation. Not only do the
eves brighten, hut the warmth of the fleh
produces a free action of the glands, which
acts as a sort of lubricator and imparts
health and freshness to the skin.
Then there is the clearer mental vision
and the brushing away of the robwebs of
the brain that nothing in all the pharniaco
rceia can approach. The fair sluggard may
be persecuted by envious and ancient rela
tives and upbraided by spiritual teachers,
but all this can be endured in beauty's
name. A nap, superinduced by a steaming
hot ba tli, mi hour on hoiseback, or a brisk
walk in the open air uken with the mouth
tightly closed and 111 a very light costume,
just before going to a party or a dinner, will
give a woman a freshness of face and a
sprightliness of manner that will be at once
remarkable and captivating. Sleep is
cheap. It is also an invaluable agent of
physical health, which is after all approach
able it perfect bcautr is not.
No girl can be really happy just now who
is not the possessor of a turquoise ring.
"Who is going to give the first bal blanc?
The cards, if of the proper sort, insist that
gowns uiuit be pure white, cream being ab
solutely inadmissible, and powdered hair in
sisted upon. The men want white knee
breechesand white siik stockings, and with
these coats of pale rose, blue, yellow, mauve,
or gray, richly brocaded and "glittering with
steel buttons. The effect of such a party of
dancers is more than picturesque, it is a
picture.
The gown shown here, saya the New York
Sun, is to he worn at a great dinner presently.
Straight and sheathlike the breadths of
the slightly trained
skirt encircle the
slender figure, their
rich silken sheen
falling in unbroken
lines to the floor.
Bands of royal pur
ple velvet add to
her height, and
form a robing on
the side of the skirt.
From some autumn
garden trails of
pompon chrysanthe
mums of softest yel-
te;
iow ecru, with curi
ously misted and
contorted petals.
have been gathered to follow the ribbons
and fall carelessly on the train. Brown
butterflies, with golden-spotted velvetwings
and jewl-set bodies, poise above the flowers,
swaying on slender wire fastenings. The
folds ot the heavy silk net line the waist,
with no seams to mark its contour, and
drape the shoulders in a simulated sleeve,
which is caught together at the bottom with
a band hidden beneath. Moreof the velvety
dusky butterflies which nestle against her
while neck poise above the flowers on her
bosom, and gleam out in the wavy masses of
her simple coiffures.
"We are decidedly coming back to the be
flousced skirt, many of the new French
dresses having a flounce around the bottom,
a thick rose mebe or baud of plush, velvet
or fur.
A furry season is predicted by the know
ing ones. The high fur shoulder cape has
come to stav, at least for the cold season.
"We have fallen upon days when custom
and fashion have decided spanking not to
be good form, says the New York World.
There was a time when all of us believed
with the French philosopher that "a boy is
the most savage of all beasts," but all that
was very long ago and now we do not even
allow the tiniest bit of corporal punishment in
anv ofour.scbools, nor in our armv or navy.
Of course, the writer, who has looked
somewhat into the subject, does not mean to
say that the habit of spanking has entirely
disappeared, for the most casual observer
who keeps his eyes open, not to speak of his
ears, knows better. But, like highway rob
bery and dueling and painting the feminine
face, it is diminishing in volume and fre
quence It is dimcult to gather statistics
scientifically accurate upon the subject, but
a little talk among your married friends, oh,
reader of gentle disposition! will surprise
you by revealing bow many of them were
spanked in their youth and how very few
now spank thcirown offspring in turn. The
old jokes about the efficacy ot slipper
training have lost their point, and for many
reasons.
In .New York a few strongholds of this
form oi posterior punishment still hold out.
They arc the public institutions where or
phan, incorrigible or destitute children are
reared. That is one oljection to being a
poor orphan child in this town one is al
most sure to be spanked. In an investiga
tion in court the other day the manager of
one of the largest New York homes for
children declared that the favorite form of
correction employed was the old-fashioned
spanking system. It left no marks upon
M
sad r i luurt
km
JW 1 liW
tfU-
the " spankee " and yielded favorable re
sults. Quite the reverse was the testimony of
the mother ot eight well-behaved and de
lightfully mannered children. "It is not
becoming in me," she said, "to boast of my
girls and boys, but they certainly are little
ladies and gentlemen, and I have never laid
a hand harshly upon one of them. There is
a certain indignity about the form of pun
ishment known its spanking that should
never be put upon high-spirited children. It
debases their natures." So much for the
testimony of one good "homey" sort of
woman, testimony that was borne out by
many others. And the moral of it all, if
there be a moral, is that it would be a good
idea for children to cut this out and paste it
in their mothers' hats.
The Medici muff is the latest addition to
muff shapes. It is flaring at the ends and
small in the center, and is usually made of
cloth to match the costume, aud trimmed
with fur, or of fancy material to match the
bonnet or hat.
House jackets show little change from the
styles employed through last winter and
summer, the sleeveless Toreador and all the
modifications thereof remaining in the
richest colon and materials which may be
found for them.
A warmth of crimson, a glory of gold, a
shadow of brown gleam in the coarse mesh
of the shaggy, jaunty
gown whichSa striking
lady wore on the
promenade these sunny
days, yet so curiously
interwoven are the
threads of the cloth, so
softened by the dark,
rough hairy stripes
which appear upon it,
that its effect is rich
and elegant, rather than
brilliant, says the New
xork Hun. The skirt
fits closely about the
hips, where the pleats
which form the slight
fulness at the hem are
stitched flat. The bod
ice and sleeves are
loosely folded, save
about the waist line,
w here the corsage eflect
is given, aud at the
wrists. Passementerie,
expressing in its convolutions the colors of
the cloth and brightened by a single thread
of gold, is revealed at the front of the skirt,
covers the deep cuffs, encircles the collar,
and forms a girdle about the waist. Be
cause the woman is slender and graceful
the sunny little dress is charming and ef
.ective. On an cast-bound Erie train, says the Nev
York Tribune, there was a baby that made
the lfves of all the fellow-passengers misera
ble. It was one of those small, unassuming
babies, with weak eyes and freckles, and
lungs as powerful as a yacht's mamsaii.
In vain the fond mother dawdled and
kneaded her melodious, it settled down into a
steady weep that seemed to be measured by
the mile. The passengers glared and
scowled and-all who could moved away.
When Port Jervis was reached there was a
temporary lull, and an exhausted old lady,
who sat just behind the source of trouble
aud was too burdened with boxes and bun
dles t) move, seized the opportunity to tall
asleep. Again the train started; a few miles
were passed in peace, and then the infant
terror of the car leaned its little speckled
countenance far back over its mother's
shoulder and almost in the ears oi the old
lady shrieked again.
There was an expression of despair on the
old woman's face. She extracted a capacious
box from the many boxes and bundles about
her, opened it and took out a slab ot sponge
cafce three inches square. The weeping in
lant's eyes followed this proceeding with
some interest, though not enough to reduce
its lament, and just as its mouth was open
widest to get the best purchase on sound, in
went the sponge cake as far and as firmly as
a moderate push oi the old lady's hand per
mitted. '
Sound ceased in an instant, and with eyes
popping with horror, the baby seemed
buried in sponge cake and silence. Its
alarmed mother looked around in surprise.
"How old is your child?" inquired the
old woman, with a benevolent but signifi
cant look.
"Eleven months, ma'am."
'Dear little thing, I've just given it a
piece of cake. Children love cake so
dearly."
French gowns, English hats and jackets,
Japanese boudoirs, Bussiau novels, Spanish
dancers, Hungarian bands, German operas
and an American papa. Ob, to be a New
York belle.
Helen Silberstein is the proprietor of a
large New York suspender factory. For a
long time she has been trying to perfect an
everlasting suspender out of finely spun
asbestos.
Belts and long mediaeval girdles, com
posed of galloon like a ribbon, or pleated or
jeweled, are worn both with dresses and long
cloaks. They aro extremely wide, with
massive buckles.
Basques are coming to the fore and all
kinds of corselets, irotu that worn by the
Swhs milkmaid to the more ornate one seen
in the pictures of Breton peasant women and
Spanish dancing girls.
One of the big Broadway retail drygoods
firms had its fall opening the other day, says
the New York Trtiune, and a large crowd
of women filled the store. One of the vis
itors was sitting before a "dummy" figure
which was clad in an exceedingly rich and
handsome gown, and was writing rapidly,
pausing occasionally to look at the garment.
One of the male "floorwalkers" walked up
and said something to her in a low but ap
parently firm tone. The woman snapped a
reply, crumpled up her paper and shoved it
into her pocket, and then walked hurriedly
out of the building, witb a look of mingled
mortification and indignation on her
face. The little incident create1 a
deal of excitement, and whispered com
ment among the shoppers who observed
it. The general idea was that the woman
was a "shoplifter," and many were the ex
pressions of surprise that so well dressed
and respectable a looking woman should be
a criminal. These inferences were entirely
at fault, however, as an inquiry put to the
"floorwalker" showed. Said he:
"The woman was merely a. dressmaker
who was stealing the design of the dress.
The dicssmakers and milliners who do busi
fill
Mi
ill
ness on a small scale, many of them, watch
carefully the announcements of the semi
annual openings of big houses and never
miss one of-, them. They oan thus get ideas
free which cost the firms a lot of money,
"We don't object to their coming ' and look
ing, but we think it-is going too far when
tbey sit down and write descriptions of and
sketch our most striking novelties."
Mme. Blavatsky, the Buddhist prieiteM, I
is reported as extremely fascinating in manXI
ner, yet very dirty in person. Her hindiM
are said to be beautiful, yet filthy, and her
face is not past the refining Influence that
soap and water might exert upon it Truly
the day for unwashed geniuses is not yet
over.
Never has jewelry been more the fashion
than at present in London. A rich woman
now hat diamonds for morning, diamonds
for afternoon and diamonds for evening
wear.
That caries is a contagious disease is so
well recognized by the leading men in the
profession that they will not use instru
ments a second time without resorting to
germicidal methods of cleansing, says a
physician in the New York Herald. If this
is trueit is obvious trfat the easiest way to
transmit the disease is by kissing. I might
almost advise "kissing your enemy" as a
means of vengeance. That this is no mere
chimera is exemplified by the relation of a
case, whioti could be duplicated a hundred
times.
A young lady who by inheritance
possessed a marvelously perfect set of
teeth was herself robust and of extremely
cleanly habits. She would .come to me to
have her teeth cleaned when only the
closest scrutiny would detect the stains
which she wished removed. Up to the age
of 19 she had never needed a filling. About
that time she brought to my office a young
man whom she introduced as her fiance.
He wished my professional services, and I
gave him an appointment. An examina
tion disclosed a filthy mouth. It was
necessary to use corrective agents before I
could tolerate the odor which was emitted.
Had it not been that he was to marry a
girl whom I knew to be ideally hygienic I
would never have giveu the cleansing of his
teeth the amount ot attention which 1 did,
because I recognized in him a man careless
of his teeth and breatb, who would be unap
preciativa of my efforts. It required four
sittings to get his teeth into a semblance of
cleanness, and then he refused to have the
gaping caverns filled. I could do no more.
A year later I was obliged to insert seveu or
eight fillings for the young ladj. I have
always attributed the decay of her teeth to
her association with this man. Fortunately
she did not marry him. Something pre
vented. Perhaps it was her sense of smell.
Her teeth have not decayed since.
Some women look as if they had been
born clothed, come as if they had achieved
clothing, namely.bought it ready-made, and
others as if they bad had their clothes thrust
upon them.
Large pots of Scottish heather are shown
in many of our florists' windows, and an
nounce the coming popularity of the dainty
blossom of the Scottish moors.
Why is it, we wonder, that stout women
almost invariably wear tightly fitting gowns?
It is really a fatal mistake. Howeversweet
and lovely is the face, if one sees a portly
bust and large arms and to say the least
rounded hips, all sheathed in a perfectly
fitting, glove-light dress, one's attention in
spite of one's self is instantly attracted by
the smooth surface, aud the wonder arises
which is the vulnerable spot in the armor?
And if a burst occurs, what would be the
result? Whereas, if the same beautiful and
gracious face surmounted soft drapings of
material artistically arranged, the embon
point would become at once unnotioeable,
and would on the contrary add dignity to a
tall ficure.
The thin woman certainly has her ad
vantages, for she can pad and model the fig
ure to any required standard. Still, there
is the inevitable law of compensation, and
her stouter rival has generally the sweeter
face. Therefore, dear sisters, exclaims the
New York Irioune, who grieve over in
creased weight, remember your sdvautages,
and do not spoil your beauty by tight
squeezing and smooth fitting. The fat
beauties of the Eaat who were so renowned
would not have been beauties if they had
discarded the flowing Eastern draperies and
donned a tailor-made gown.
Indigestion among children can be cured
by carefully watching them and vigilantly
preaching the wholesome doctrine of masti
cation. Teach the child that every morsel
he swallows without chewing it thoroughly,
is so much poison to his health.
Diamond engagement rings of one stone
in a simple setting are very much used, and
can be bought at the present time from $50
to 1,000. Diamonds are considerably higher
than they were.
The porter's vest is the latest thing, says
the Paris edition of the New York Herald.
It is drawn in across the back with tabs
and a buckle and has pockets in the
fronts, which, however, hang straight
instead of being tight, as in a porter's vest.
Theiitation of a railway man's covering
is all the greater when the substance is cor
duroy or bottle green velvet, and the sleeves
are of dull peau da soie to match, but some
of these jackets are sleeveless, which is con
venient with high dress sleeves.
The baby-waist does not seem alone the
prerogative of the sweet girl graduate, but
is ruthlessly donned by athletic-looking fe
males wliou age has robbed of their pristine
bloom.
Ouida is going to write a tragedy for Sara
Bernhardt.
It is sad to think that when he sang
Beneath tbe peaceful stars.
And the wlldwood with tbe echoes rang
From his entrancing bars.
That papa was the one who heard
Tbe lover's midnight call.
While she, hli love, caught not a word,
But slopt on tbrongb it all.
The old picture galleries ha,ve been ran
sacked to provide new ideas for the cos
tumers. Some of the models produced from
a study of the gowns worn by moyen-age
beauties have been extremely successful.
An example of nineteenth century venge
ance has been offered by such a dis
tinguished a person as Mrs. William Astor,
says the New York World. It is related
that a young woman "at Newport, two or
three seasons ago, manuvred very in
geniously and energetically to make a
matrimonial catch ot young John Jacob
Astor. Although Mrs.' William Astor sig
nified her displeasure in no unmistakable
way tbe young woman did not withdraw.
Thereupon Mrs. Astor refused to go to any
house where the young woman was received,
and verv shortly the latter found all the
doors in Newport closed : to her.
j0jri
$& iff
tJrM 11 r III I
WHAT WOMEN WEAR.
Shirley Dare's Chat About the Com
ing Winter Fashions.
DRESSES FOE VARYING USES.
Costliness of Trin? to Purchaao Ele-
K ante -Too Cheaply.
BHAWL8 WOEKED UP 1KT0 COSTDHES
lwsrrrxir roa the dispatch.'
The pretty capote of the day is one which
declares the taste of a lady in every fold
and outline. It suits the head and the
shapely features which wear it. Let the
aquiline woman beware of essaying it, how
ever, unless bhe is willing that her most
prominent features should soar In parrot
like relief. The bonnet is better for her, as
the trimming is massed outside the line of
the crown and projects almost as much as
the tip of the nose itself.
In choosing hat or bonnet for a woman
with prominent features hold a ruler straight
against the tip of the nose and have the
brim or trimming' come at least as far for
ward. This trimming should be light
feathers, gaute or lace with simple, effect
ive knot of velvet loops with platings of
muslin de soie or thin crepe each side. The
feather border laid in tufts also sets out
from the head and makos it look smaller.
For theater a charming piece has Greek pat
tarn border of velvet, shaped by wire and
buckram, laid over crepe lisse fluting, the
bow of feather tufted "snow" gauze and
black velvet ribbon with "snow" aigrette
being of that simple, inimitable elegance
which enchants the masouline mind and dis
tracts the feminine.
HOUSE AND WALKING DBES3E3.
One of tlie best models lor bouse dress is
tbe glossy black silk now worn, with front
of velvet striped and figured daniasK net.
Thefshaping ol the corsage gives a charming
slender figure, delightfully the opposite to
the deformity of the Spanish jacket which
widened the waist. The sleeve will be bet
ter without the bell cuff, which is really the
only point to criticise about this interesting
toilet, admirable tor an amateur concert
dress.
A caprics of the mode is a walking dress,
half cloth, half velvet, which, if the mute
rials are both in the same shade, or in rare
harmouy, may pass with taste. The trim
ming with Angora fringe is one of the new
est ideas, and the drift of it across the breast
is warm and protecting to the sensitive line
of the chest.
Many of the winter styles are suggestions
from the fifteenth century dress, revived by
the Tudor exhibition, which was the delight
of the London world last season. Veritable
state dresses were unearthed from wardrobe
rooms and coffers; gloves tarnished and
sewn with pearls; corselets of woven metal,
studded with carbuncle turquoise, garnet
and seed pearls; bodices stiff with embroid
ery in gold thread and furred; moth-eaten
mantles which had stirred with the unrest
of the prondest, uneasiest hearts in the
world.
OLD-TIME PETTICOATS.
Not only the Maries and Elizabeths, of
wnom nisiory is inn, sent tneir last nnery to
the exhibition, but those forgotten Maries,
Annes and Isabellas whose destiny was so
high and so unhappy in that they were less
account living than they seem to be dead
women without force, daring or worth
enough to win what was theirs by desire and
right, who coveted, envied, moped, and left
themselves nothing but their pedigree and
their petticoats. Well, these last were ol ten
graceful enough to be remembered and
admired.
The cheap velvet sleeves, wrought in
attempt to mimic Venetian richness from
shoulder to waist, hang on the show line
above the counters marked only $5 50 the
pair. Oh, for sumptuary laws again, or
rather that women would be laws unto
themselves, for then, and then only, shall
we see noble and enduring fashions, the
sumptnou' demanding the finest, richest
productions ot the loom to carry out its
royal ideas; woven to last, enhanced by the
handiwork of the weavers, of a design
worthy to last, and common folk to clean,
bright, cheery stuffs that would cleanse
year after year like new and be worth the
dollars put into tbem,
CHEAP GOODS THE DEAHEST.
As it is, you may go from counter to
counter aud find little worth the trouble of
making up. Certainly it does not pay to
give a month's salary of an ordinary pro
fessional woman for a simple dress, to wait
the pleasure of a dressmaker or days and
hours to have it refitted, get it alter two
weeks' waiting to have the binding altered
and the seams taken in nnder the arms,
and then in six weeks' wear have it turn
rusty, with the verdict from TOose who
should know that "it won't pay to dye it,
for the threads are giving way already."
That is a specimen of what women buy for
stylish dresses. They pay for style, and
nothing else, and style won't wear or keep
its gloss. Women begin the matter of dress
reform at the wrong end. If thev were to
demand better fabrics, and mode! them in
a certain compromise of good taste, they
would be gainers, rather than to pay three
prices for reform garments when common
ones are already dear. Let us look at the
Venetian bodice and the "hygienic" ex
travagances and beware of either.
THIS AUTUMN'S COLORS.
The colors for the autumn include a num
ber of shadowy browns, which will be use'ul,
notably the richly solt tan snade called
Hindoo, alter the hue of native bodies. This
is combined with pale Egyptian greens, like
verdigris; cocqa, walnut, camel and umber
shades describe themselves. The reds are
delightful. Moorish red, Indian red, Bou
langer, the clear, carnation scarlet and a
rich cherry red, long in disuse. Turquoise
is the trimming color for bows and off
sets to dress, much seen with black, espe
cially in made trimmings.
The old passementerie and gimp bands
have their patterns picked out in the bossts
of imitation turquoise, and the effect of
color is pretty, though it revolts the taste in
material.
Other trimmings are varied with coral,
mock amber and pearls, as well as turquoise,
but these things lose their richness with
their rarity. A woman, dressed in such fili
gree, even to whole fronts of it, moves with
the air ol an educated squaw. Imitations
have reached their limit.
SLEEVELESS JACKETS.
The em broiderv fashion bring out some
pretty sleeveless jackets, wrought all over
in the finest si Ik cord, which looks like
hemstitch, as it it were whipped over and
ovcrv by hand. This makes fabric very
durable, and we may congratulate ourselves
that the shape is so good, since it is likely
to last. Jackets and sacques are much
longer, have straight fronts and are straight
on the lower edges, witb no- buttons visible.
Plain soft beaver, with pearled finish of
narrow braid on the Very edge of the front,
is well worn. Diagonal goods wear shiny
soon.
Shawls of every sort are made into dresses
for exclusive wearers by private modistes.
White chuddah shawls, with narrow border
broches in white wool, are made into house
dresses with lovely effect; dark, handsome
cashmeres and the fine paiMeys are made
into combination dresses. Velvet crossed
with India camel's hair shawling ought to
be elegant enongh lor any carriage dress.
A dark from Paisley blends well with a
cocoa, camel or umber shade of plain serge.
Plaid wool shawls, when a good tartan can
be found, make most satisfactory and endur
ing winter dresses and cloaks. Two shawls
make a full suit, one draped for the skirt,
the other cnt into a mantle, effectively
draped.
MOUBNINQ GRADATIONS.
A correspondent asks whether she shall
wear her mourning at a wedding to which
she Is invited. Tbe best usage is to lay
aside black for any festival, appearing in
subdued colors, .resuming it immediately
after. A bride whose mother has recently
died lays aside her mourning for white on
the wedding day, but resumes it the next, to
be worn till the proper period elapses.
-Aida" wants to know what to get for a
Strikingly stylish outfit for Washington
this next winter, expense not so muoh con
sideration as good appearance, White will
be the highest fashion for the season, as it is
worn abroad; white wool damassee and
twills for house dress in the cream satin
habit shirts, cherry and turquoise surah
to change, white mouttonee wools for cloak
ings and white Velvety beaver and Astra
khan jackets with rioh damasse or embroid
ered vests for walking. Yon may vary this,
with utility and appearance both in ques
tion, by adopting the pale whitish gray
worn by English women of good style; the
long ulsters of white-gray cheviot, solt as
camel's hair, pearl-gray plaids, strength
ened by bars of indefinite pencil gray, or
heather brown trimmed by Angora fringe,
or shawl fringe, nearly white. White fleece
Jacket, with rose-crimson satin lining, for
inlngs tell very much in these colorless
outfits, the fronts faced with damassee rose,
cream and sliver; very littls ot the light
shades, however.
A SPANISH INNOVATION.
Bonnet of pale velvet, with trimming of
broad, curling ostrloh tips, and black and
silver embroidery on crepe lisse mixed
with the velvet loops. Hat of pale felt,
with open work edge, and plumes, crimson
velvet rose attached to the elastic band just
back of the left ear. This Spanish touch is
one of the newest points in millinery, not in
the shops as yet. A black velvet rosette is
substituted by blonde wearers. A cross-over
costume in 'black damask velvet and ash
gray, miscalled slate gray, with border of
fleece fringe headed by black chenille,
would be very nice with rose red China
crepe tie at the throat just showing under
the collarette. A Vandyke collar and cuffs
en suite in white and gold passementerie of
fine pattern may be worn with different
dresses or a suit in velvet cut-work with
gray pearl beading, whioh looks so quietly
elegant and forgives the imitation for once
if one must imitate.
For evening dress choose white damasks,
with Japanese crape, or white Indian shawl
dress, with white sitin, big white, soft
satin sash draped over it; a black lace, em
broidered with nasturtiums, shaded from
orange to deep red, with ribbon knots of the
shades blended; a thin wool cape, with nar
row stripes of either white or black velvet,
white satin ribbon an inch and a quarter
wide run on in bayadere stripes from loot to
waist. This is lor a tall girl only.
Bhibley Dabe.
AMERICA jSFAR AHEAD.
Mrs. Wernor'sConclusionsFrom aEoropean
Trip Cleveland, Tolstoi and Bellamy
Very Popular Pittsburg Like a Mad
house as Compared With the Quiet Old
World.
Mrs. M. Werner, the popular librarian of
the German Library on Wood street, re
turned last week from a four-months' trip to
Germany, the land of her birth. It is now
more than 30 years since she left that coun
try, and the many changes which have
taken place in tbe meantime have removed
nearly all the old familiar features by which
she remembered her old home.
During the course of a conversation she
said: "When I took the trip it was cot with
the intention of making a lengthy tour of
it, but merely a visit to the cities and towns
along the Rhine, which were so well known
to me in my early life. I found the change
was even greater than I expected. Few of
tbe many places I visited still retained any
thing familiar to nie? Germany can, in no
sense, be compared with this country, as far
as progressiveness is concerned, but every
where a change has taken place, that change
has been for the better. Thirty years ago,
it was considered high treason to utter a
single word of protest against the methods
of royalty, but now the Emperor, his fam
ily and their actions politically and socially,
can be and are freely discussed.
"They take the liveliest interest in Amer
ican politics over there, and follow every
move made by our several parties. I must
sav, the greatest American in German eyes
is Grover Cleveland. This, no doubt, arises
Irom his views on the tariff question. By
the way, you would e surprised at tbe man
ner in which Bellamy's book, 'Looking
Backward,' has taken hold over there. It
sells lor about 15 cents of our money and
everybody has it or has read it. Hot a sin
gle house wbich I visited but contained one
or more copies And speaking of books re
minds me that Tolstoi, whose 'Kreutzer
Sonata' has excited so much unfavorable
-comment here, is looked upon in Germany
as one of the greatest men of the time, and
his opinions are freely accepted as those of
one of the most deep and logical thinkers of
the age.
"In mechanical improvements the Ger
mans are not nearly so far advanced as the
Americans. They have several electric
street car lines in Berlin and one in Stras
burg; also a cable line in the first named
city. That is, I believe, all they have in
the way of rapid transit except the electric
cabs which I have not seen.
"In one particular this country could well
take pattern after the old and that is the
appreciation of the beautiful. I have been
in many of the most famous parks in the
TJnlted States and have never yet seen any
thing to compare with those on the other
side of the sea. It would be simply impos
sible to describe the wonderful beauty of
the Palmer Garten in Frankfort, Even tbe
railroad depots are literally set in a mass of
flowers and plants. In everything the Old
Country betokens what it really is 'a land
ot poesy.'
"Its business is conducted so quietly that
one imagines in visiting the various towns
that he has traveled in a continuous series
of Sundays. Why, the change was so great
when I arrived in busy Pittsburg, after my
four months' sojourn in those quiet places,
that I could hardly keep lrom thinking I
was in a madhouse."
PEICE OP -A WD7E.
Good Ones Quoted at 10,000 Cocoanuts In
the Solomon Islands.
In the Solomon Islands the market quo
tation on a "good quality" wife is 10,000
cocoanuts. Tne mohey of the islanders,
says Ml the Year Sound, consists of strings
of shell beads about the size of shirt but
tons, well made, and strung in fathom
lengths of two kinds, "red" and "white"
money. This is the base of tbe currency,
above which come dogs' teeth, which are
the gold of their coinage. Only two teeth
from a dog's jaw are legal tender. A hole
is drilled in each, and when a native has
acenmuiated a sufficient number he strings
them together and wears them as a collar.
Such a collar may be worth as much as 20.
Porpoises' teeth are one-fifth the value of
dogs' teeth, and rings of a marble-like stone
are also current coin.
The following is the basis of Solomon
Island money and exchange: Ten cocoa
nuts, I string of white money or one stick of
tobacco; 10 strings white money, 1 string of
red money or 1 dog's tooth; 10 strings red
money, 1 "isa" or50 porpoise teeth; 10 Isas,
1 good quality wife; 1 bahika (or marble
ring), 1 human head; 1 bahika, 1 very good
pig; 1 bahika, 1 medium young man.
GIADSTOKZ'S FINGEB KAILS.
They Are of Pine Color and Slzo and He
Takes Good Care of Them.
A London manicure says Gladstone's
nails are particularly good, of a fine color
and size, and nicely kept. Handsome nails
nearly always go with a wejl-shaped hand.
Mr. Gladstone's hands are rather large and
the fingers are large in proportion. The
skin is very soft, and the lines, although
numerous, are not remarkable.
Among the best-shaped hands of public
men is that of Sir Frederic Lelghton. He
has a large, well-shaped and firm hand, and
the nails are in proportion la'rge and
rounded and well-trimmed. Mr. Spurgeon,
on the other hand, has flat, straight nails
witb a large and flabby hand. He doesn't
patronize a manicure.
GLARA BELLE'S CHAT.
Actresses Who Enthuse So Ihey Lose
Their Individuality.
THE QUEEN OP EOOMAHIA'S TACT.
Autumn Dinner Decorations' Hut be 87m
tyllc of the Season.
WOMEN' GROW OLD P18TBE THAN MEN
(COSBXSrOXDXKCZ 0V TBI BISrATCH-t
New Yobk, October 11.
OTBEBSE8 are
often asked whether
or not they feel in
wardly all that they
express in their art,
and there have been
different opinions as
to whether a per
former made a bet
ter effect by losing
herself in her part
or by remaining
continually master
of her actions. I
heard a most popu
lar leading aotor re-
ate an interesting anecdote on this point.
He is known as an actor of extreme nervous
force and sincerity and to see him on a first
night an audience is led to believe that he is
thoroughly absorbed in his part and has no
remembrance of tha ordinary world tha
studies him.
"I am not sure about myself," said this
aotor; "there are certainly moments when I
am carried away entirely by the force and
the reality of the situation I am trying to
represent, but as a rule I believe I keep
every part of tbe stage in my eyes and an
ticipate every word I am expected to utter.
But let me tell you of an experience I had
with a certain leading woman of great
physical beauty and wide professional repu
tation. The re'hearsals were gone through
in the usual mild and perfunctory way, and
it was uot until the first night's performance
that I discovered the peculiarity of the
star's artistry.
AX ARTIST IN UEAET.
Before that beautiful woman had bestowed
npon me half the caresses that the play de
manded she had made me believe she was in
love witb me. After getting into my street
clothe. I presumed to wait in the wings
to say'a goodnight word to her. She came
out of her dressing room looking as pale
and stately as a queen. I advanced and
congratulated her, with some embarrassment
of manner, upon her apparent success.
'"Well, I hope the house like me," she
said with perfect complacency. 'I feel in
debted to you, for carrying several of the
scenes so effectively. And now I am going
to ask a favor of you. You wore a false
beard to-night. Now, I can not abide such
a thing. It was very painful indeed for
me to perform the kusing business owing to
that beard to-night, and if you will kindly
leave it off I believe I shall be able to instill
into my part far more naturalness. Please
take no offense, sir; I only want to get
everything as pleasant and real as possible.'
"She bowed a polite goodnight, and I
knew instantly that the woman was an un
common artist Every time I played witn
her I was made tbe victim of ardent caresses
but dnring my entire association with the
actress I never got to know her except'as my
employer and professional coadjutor. I
really think that she was an artist in heart
as well as education.
A VISIT XO CAElIEir STXVA.
Pertinent to the subject of women's de
meanor I have had a letter from the Queen
of Boumauia. Well, not directly from Her
Majesty, you know, but from Emily Faith
ful), who had just visited her. And it had
a flavor of interested exploitation, too, for it
was addressed to the President of the Soro
sis, and it squinted toward a boom for the
Queen in this country. She writes books,
under the name of Carmeu Sylva, and she
would like to have them published and
read in America. In her letter Emily
Faithfnll says:
"Before I had well crossed the threshold,
the kindly nature and ready tact of tbe
Queen was revealed. There were but six
stairs between my sitting room and tbe
Carmen Sylva.
roval suite of apartments, but the heredi
tary asthma which too often transforms my
expected seaside pleasures into days and
nights of misery, rendered me almost
speechless by the time I reached the door a
conditiou not conducive to the comfort of an
interview with even one's own familiar
friend. But the best chance of a quick re
covery was given me by the readiness with
which Her Majesty talked of her life and
interests in Boumania before she would al
low me to speak a word."
THE ATJTTJMH DINNEE PAETT.
Coming back to home usages and my
readers' own feminine usages, let me tell
you that, if you intend to give a swell din
ner this autumn, j. on must devise original
effects. For instance, you must issue invi
tations for a diner daufomne and trim your
dining room with autumn leaves ot the
brightest hues obtainable. Then in the cen
ter of your table you must place a htffe
epergne, which you must load down with
iruit set off with leaves; and at each of the
four corners of the table you must place a
large silver or china candelabrum, about
the arms of which trail white, black and
purple grapes. Festoons of these grapes
must reach to the cloth and end at the base
of the epergne. No flowers must be visible;
all leaves anil vines in the rich tints so
plentiful in October and November.
Your s-orbets and ices must ail simulate
fruit of varinuj kinds. For boutotiniers
make use of colored leaves, and lor favors
distribute pins of enameled leaves to the
ladles and grains ol yellow corn set in
guise of scarf pins to the gentlemen. Dinner
cards should have a spray of autumn leaves
with some kind of iruit painted in the cor
ner, and your guests should be requested to
nse vines'nud leaves in trimming their din
ner toilets. A figure of tbe goddess Ceres
should be prominent on the mantel and be
appropriately hung with vine's and festoons
of tiny apples and nuts.
THE SEMI-ANNUAL MIGRATION.
We are all liteially oc the move now.
October is only second to May in its proces
sions of loaded vans, express wagons, one
horse trucks and hand wheelbarrows bearing
our household goods to new temples. Twice
a year the spirit oi change holds sovereign
sway, and this processional tribute goes
through the streets in token or our loyalty
to its commands. Only those who own their
houses are exempt from tbe calls of this
spirit, and even they are coming ito town
from summer quarters with huge caravans
of luggage, thus fulfilling the- law to the
very letter. Everybody obeys It, in fact
even the basement dwellers, who Can move
no further than the next block.
I saw a family yesterday in a procession all
their own. The lather carried a small cook
ing stove, which still bore the glow ot the
breakfast fire; the mother a basket of delf,
with teapot and coffeepot on a string hang
ing at her side like a fine ladies chatelaine;
then lollowed six children, each witb some
artiole of furniture suited to its size. The
eldest girl bore tha baby on one arm and tha
coal scuttle on the other, and a jolly boy
marched to the music of his own whistle
with an inverted pall, which looked sus
piciously like the family growler. All were
smiling, conscious of being in fashion, and
what did they care if the change was only
from basement to basement.
IT'S FASHIONABLE TO MOTE.
Everybody, in fact, loots Jolly. The
lords and ladles of the fine houses are coming
home eager for the round of winter pleasures;
tha dwellers in apartments who put their
goods in storage last May and went into the
country some to the martyrdom of country
relations are now locating in a new part of
the city; the stay-at-homes-all-summer are
securing change of air und scene by moving
from the East Side to the West and from the
West Side to the East; so, through all the
toil and turmoil, we are having a sort of
carnival of high spirits and bright anticipa
tions. The old style of entering a house as a
bride, having children born and married
there, and leaving it only at the last great
removal, is now wholly abandoned as too
staid and unenterprising for this lively age.
So-ironi thousands of flat roo's come the
thud, thud 0 the carpet-beater, with clouds
ol dust a-cending to settle down aud filter
through houses and clothing, and the tiok-
.51 ' p" nn
A Family Engaged in Having.
tock of the carpet hammer fills the air. But
if you consider the dust as so much cloudy
incense ascending to our household Lares
and Penates, and the tick-tock the echo of
dancing feet of invisible home fairies why,
you will be like all the restof us, immensely
jolly in this monstrous moving time.
MEN LAST THE LONOEE.
Why, oh why, do our city fashionable
women go to pieces so early'in lire, while
our men, even if they do get fat and bald,
still look neat and dapper, and have a style
about them until overtaken by theseventies?
Take a New York debutante of the McAl
lister set, dainty and delicate as a miniature
on ivory, with teeth like pearls, skin like
the petal of a rose, 'eves full of warmth and
feeling, figure ravisbingly beautiful and
her whole being breathing intelligence,
sympathy and spirituality. Yet at 25 with
a married life of two or three years, they
begin to fade; at 30 the bloom is gone; at 35
they are passe; at 40 they are old women.
But not so the man about town. At 40 he
is still erect as a fashion plate; at CO his hair
and teeth begin to go, but not so his spright
liness, his interest in things, his elbow
touch witb the spirit of the times. In a
word, as he grows old in the flesh, he seems
to brighten intellectually, and that, mind
von, is the secret of his perennial bloom.
His breezy, cheery way deceives you. He
acts like a man ot 30, and as his rotundity in
creases, he wraps his toga tightly around
him and straightens up like a boy of 18.
He is as constant to his bath tub as he is to
his sweetheart, and speaks as affectionately
to his tailor and barber as if they were his
own brothers. He is careful what he eats,
and when he eats it, drinks sparingly, sleeps
nine hours dailv, and isas neat with his
hands as a girl. He is regularly manicured,
pedicured, and massaged. All this costs
him a heap of trouble, out egad I he gets his
reward. Claba Belle.
A THAU? POSTAL CABS.
Its Record In Globe-Trotting From England
East to California.
Sin Francisco Call.
Via the steamship China, which arrived
on Tuesday, came addressed to the postoffice
in this city a postal card en route around
the world. It was started at South Kensington,-
England, on July 2 last, and
reached the several ports as follows: Gibral
tar, July 8; Port Said. July 16; Suez, on the
the following day; Aden, July 14; Calcutta,
August 6; Hong-Kong, August 28; Shang
hai, September fS; Yokohama, September 11,
and San Francisco, September 30.
Assistant Postmaster John C. Qumn
stated to a representative that the postal
card had lost about 12 days by being ad
dressed to Shanghai. It should, he said,
have been sent from Hong-Kong to Yoko
hama direct. This would have made the
entire trip around the world possible in
about 90 days.
About one month ago the local office re
ceived a postal card from 0. h. Schmidt,
the sender asking as a special favor that
this postal be forwarded across tbe United
States Perhaps he knew from the post
master at South Kensington that some such
communication is necessary, for the laws of
the United States do not permit of the for
warding of such "tramp" letters without an
American stamp on it.
This is only meant on the part of the
Government to curb a useless and often
tonlish desire on tbe part of the scndeis to
have something that had passed niouud the
globe. Besides, as a business proposition,
the custom of sending snch missives is to be
deprecated. The card in question was sent
from South Kensington during the Jubilee
Conversazione, and is for scientific pur
poses. It will be received next at Mont
real, wither it was seat last night.
SPEAKER BEEP'S DOUBLE.
How Photographer Bell Was Asked to
Favor a Congressman Once.
Speaker Beed has a queer double in
Washinglon, says Frank G. Carpenter.
This man is named Bell, and ha has a pho
tograph gallery on the avenne, not far rrom
the Capitol. He was' sitting in the theater
one night at just about tbe close of the ses
sion, when a Western Congressman, who
wanted to get a building bill up before the
House, came to Mm, between the acts and
whispered that he wanted him to recognize
him on the morrow.
"Of course I'll recognize vou.'said Bell.
"Come in and I'll take a look at you throngh
tbe camera."
,The man looked as though be thought tbe
Speaker was crazy, and he hasn't to this day
made nut the reason why his bill was not
brought up before tbe House.
She Knew the Slang.
Washington Foit.3
"John," said the journalist's wife, as he
came home'with a black eye, a cut nose and
a bandaged jawWhere on earth did you
get that display need.
CHIEF OF THE SACS.
Old Hoses Keokuk Who Abandoned
the Joys of Savage Life
AHD BECAME A GOOD INDIAN
How Eg Got Eld of Three Std WiTM ani
Took Up Whit One.
A COUNCIL OF THE WISE BED MEN.
rcoxsxaroxszxcx or m dispatch.
Sao jind Fox AOENOY. L T., )
October L )
The Sao and Fox Indians originally
called Banks, are preparing to take their
land in severalty or by allotment. They
hare just concluded a treaty with the Got
ernment which gives to each Sank Indian
160 acres of land and $1,000 in cash. The
cash that the Indians receive is the proceeds
of the sale of their surplus land and amounts
to 135,000.
The Sanks in the Territory number prob
ably 450 or BOO. There are 400 in Iowa, and
80 but recently moved from Kansas. In tha
old Bible times the Hebrews, from which
the Indians seem to have descended, had
their names changed for some aot of valor or
persistency or defiance. Not so with tha
Sanks. It seems that during the Black
Hawk War, in 1832, some of the Sanks re
fused to fight, and sneaked off like foxes;
and for abbreviation Sank was changed to
Sac, hence their present name, Saca and
Foxes.
ABISTOCBATIO SATAOES.
They are an aristocratic tribe of Indians.
They leel that a white man is not their
equal. Tbey have adopted a constitution
for the government of their people, and its
preamble is similar to the Constitution of
the United States, excepting that it
acknowledges the Supreme Being. They
council often and at length. They have as
much trouble getting a quorum as their
brothers of paler hue. They talk much
about nothing, and talk nothing about
much, filling in the time by chewing and
spitting.
, I attended their council in the interest of
the education of;their children. They had
weightier matters to discuss, but they kind
ly voted that I might speak first. Thera
they sat, their keen, black eyes and dark,
swarthy faces showing no signs of either ap
preciation or contempt. They listened and
showed respect for me and they kindly told
me that I was at liberty to remain while
they discussed the demands of the 80 Kan
sas Sanks who atone time withdrew from tha
tribe in the Territory, but now come in for
their share of land and money.
A BIT OF INDIAN OKATOBT.
The discussion was in their own language
and I understood but two words, one in
English and the other Indian. Everyone
who spoke commenced his speech by "Mr.
Chairman," which made me remember that
I had lorgotten to address that august body
in the same manner.
Moses Keokuk, son of Chief Keokuk,
after whom KeoEuk in Iowa is named, mada
the ablest speech of all, as he is the most
notable old man in his tribe. He introduced
all his sentences with "ahah," which means
"now." He is a remarkable man, one ot
the best Indians in existence. He is a full
blooded Sac and Fox, is 65 years ot age, and
15 years ago was a blanket Indian, with a
shaved Jead, pompadour style, painted face
and three wives, To-dav he is a Christian,
a clean, thrifty Christian. He wears citi
zen's clothes, is proprietor of the Traders'
store, employing three clerks, keeps a hotel,
owns a ranch and has a white wife. Fifteen
years ago he was converted.
DISPOSAL OP HI3 'WIVES.
The first question he asked after his eon
version was, "What will I do with my
wives?" This was a hard question to answer.
He finally concluded himselt to provide for
two of them and live witb but one. One of
the two that was discarded poisoned the
favored wife, it was thought; and so all
were thrown aside and a neat, sensible white
lady, legally married now, presides over his
household.
,Mr. "K.," as he is called here, is a regu
lar attendant at the little White Mission
Church right across the road and often
exhorts the people to turn to the right while
in health aud strength. It is in
teresting and impressive to hear him
ask a blessing in tbe . Indian
language at his table filled with Indian and
white guests. In his sitting-room hangs a
very valuable picture of old Chief Keokuk
in native costume. His son, the present
head Chief of the Sao and Fox Indians,
then about 12 years of age, is seated at bis
feet in the picture. It was lithographed in
Philadelphia in 1838. Opposite this unique
picture hangs his marriage certificate, a
plain, neat engraving, with tbe clasped
hands and the other embellishments, uniting
for life Moses Keoknk, Chief of the Sacs
and Foxes, and Mrs. Phoebe King, of tha
Ottawa reservation.
QUITE A GOOD INDIAN.
A few years ago, during a reunion of the
old settlers of Keokuk. la., they sent for
Chief Keokuk. He took with him his wife
and an interpreter and his family. Their
expenses were all paid and they were
treated royally while there. Old Chief
Keoknk, who was famous with Black Hawk
and others during tne aiaux. nawK war,
was buried at Franklvn, Kan, At the re
quest of the people of Keokuk, la., his body
was taken up and now rests m the city that
bears his name. They have erected a fine
monument over his grave, and a statue of
the old brave, seated on his horse with his
war bonnet on, graces one of the publio
squares.
AN EYE TO BUSINESS.
The 'Frisco Railroad has crept as far as
Sepnlpa, about 30 miles away from tha
agency. Bight here will be a town. Old
Chief Keokuk realizes this. He is building
a fine large store, and superintending all
the work himself.
The Indians say that I have come too soon
for their children. Almost all of tbe tribe,
with a few visiting Iowas and Osages, are
feasting, dancing and praying about 30 miles
away on the joad to Guthrie. They are ex
pecting to resurrect two dead Indians. They
claim that one has arisen. The people of
Guthrie are taking great interest in tha
dance and arc making many visits. The
Indians don't like intruders and threaten to
charge an admission fee. E. H. D.
IKSXTBAUCE OF W0HEH.
ot a Very Desirable Risk In England,
Though Some Are Accepted.
The number of women who insure their
lives, says Miss Mantillni, in the Pall Hall
Budget, scarcely averages 1 per cent, an in
surance agent told me the other day. Few
of the agencies, strange to say, care about
enrolling them. "Women are not bread
winners," said the agent, "so their lives
have no monetary value. Under some cir
cumstances we should be suspicious of a
woman who wanted to be insured. Wa
should imagine she expected to dia
soon, or her husband would have in
sured instead. No, it's our business to
look up the men. Nevertheless, we have a
few women on the books. The rates are a
little heavier for women, on account of
their health being so precarious. We charge
unmarried women 1 per cent extra far tha
first year on each 100 of insurance. Wemea
of sound health with children are often pat
on equality with men, and these, of course,
escape tbe additional tax."
"Do you find women anxious to insurer
"No, they are rather averse to it, wa
think. An agent would have a thankless
time of it if be canvassed for women alone,
granting, that is, that we wanted them,
which we don't We find that wesk men
often put off being insured because-they
fancy such an act would shorten their
lives."
Law
iJnTrtfaA
WftW6taatWj
ism.