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20
RED ROSES AT SARATOGA.
A Writable Epidemic of Scarlet Fever
fceema la Hbtb Stricken Down Swell
dom nt That Gay Rr.orl Diamonds
That ttlrnl the Son The Co.mmem
rwnirizx roB m oiefatch.1
I hare been to that hub of summer swell
dom, Saratoga, watching the merry-go-round
of fashion until I am half blind, wholly
bewildered and mentally inflamed; which
afflictions, it 19
presumable, came
about by a too
ardent and cord
ons gazing at the
glitter of jewels
and the glare of
red dry-goods.
Knowing what I
now know I
would not again
venture in that
region of fashion
able inflamma
tion withou t
smoked glasses
and a green veil,
for well, for
nothing short of
a lew handfuls of
the superfluous
diamonds worn
there. Why will
women wear all
the diamonds
they can, and on
account of their
money value con
sider them ad
missible and "good form," when the same
excess exhibited in paste would be vulgar?
"Who can answer?
Not having heard of the scarlet fever epi
demic raging at this resort, I was wholly un
prepared for it The disease in its most
violent form seems to have confined itself
to onr sex, but it is no rarity to see a
loan wrestling with a light attack sort
of a scarlet varioloid that betrays
its existence in the color of necktie, hand,
kerchief hatband and bote. Here is a
handsome patient who is omnipresent or else
has a "double" several times over. A
white flannel suit that is, runUlooos and
blazer white silk shirt with scarlet stripes;
the same murderous color encircling the
throat tied fonr-ln-hand; a white straw hat,
scarlet band; scarlet hose in silk displayed
above low-cut russet leather shoes. This
apparition at the races or elsewhere abroad
during the hot hours, parried sun thrusts
with an Americus Club umbrella. Of
course, he had the scarlet contagion pretty
nearly as bad as one of his sex conld get
it, vet I think you will agree the attack was
trifling compared with that which afflicted
the other sex.
A BED BEADING.
Here are a few of many inflamed toilets
noticed at one sitting, their startling eccen
tricities being proven by their standing out
in a way to be remembered from among the
crush of gay colors and queer gowns. It
was during a recital given at the hotel
where I found a home pro tern, the reader
being Miss Charlotte Allen, of Xew York
City, a finished elocutionist of bewitching
personality and altogether the rarest vision
01 loveliness at this place, noted lor its beau
tiful guests.
This affair might fitly have been called a
red reading, since the reader and tbe larger
half o' ber audience, wore red. Miss Al
len's gown was of a clinging all-wool fabric,
flaming red, embroidered in black; made
straight skirt with deep foot band ol tbe
black embroidery in arabesque design; a
waist, postilion back, upon which the
embroidery, red net and black
velvet were piled in an artistic
contusion that de
nes an Intelligi
ble description.
The throat was
freely exposed
and such a throat 1
it had no counter
part In the room.
A rolling collar
of the velvet made
an effective foil
for tbe white skin
and velvet cuffs
served the shape
ly wrists in tho
same kindly way.
Hiss Allen was
conspicuous lor
the absence ol
jewels .and ap
parent attempt at
it striking toilet.
Rhft hnri slmnlv
with the eye of k.
an artist, selected f
UQ I.U1UL auu
style most becom.
log to ber com
plexion, stature
and proportions
scd in conse
quence was a
visual sym
phony. , Not so fortu
nate in her se
lection of the
prevailing color was another woman
whose lines of grace had been, apparently,
long ago lost in an excessive accumulation
of flesh; her gown was of unrelieved scarlet.
Material, red net, trimmed with redder vel
vet, large red bat heeped high with tips,
ribbons and biras all ot the same rnddy hue.
FAT, BED JLJ.-D SPABKLIS'G.
"When X tell yon she was the fleshiest
troman in the room you will at once know
she was the one with the largest display of
diamonds. It has been one ot my observa
tions that fat women have a weakness lor
these gems, and that they, more than any
other, seem to have tbe wherewithal to in
dulge tbe weakness.
The next red subject is a pretty graceful
woman with slender, girlish figure and is
the wife of Mr. George V. Hankins, owner
ot Terra Cotta and tbe Chicago stables.
Mrs. Hankins is celebrated at this resort
for her charming manners and bewitching
toilets. It is said her diamonds would
stock a new mine in Golconda. Upon this
becasion. however, they were sparingly dis
plaved, her gown having sufficiently attrac
tive qualities. A perfect tangle of red net
red passementerie that glowed as Ifttudded
with rubies and red ribbons, surplice waist,
halt length sleeves which were met by red
silk mils, red satin slippers and as a natural
inference, in this day of the notching
.mania, red bose. though they, of whatever
texture or coler, were kept, contrary to cue-J
fbwimMA
llsMXx
tllliftW'flt f I Ilia ll! it.
mmmM R
lip
torn, discreetly under cover of ikirt
draperies.
BED, BLACK AND GOLD.
Another woman, pretty as a picture and
plump as a partridge, who, it was said, oc
cupies a prominent place in the MoAllister
set, wore a costnme that would have set on
fire with envy the heart of a circus rider. A
vivid scarlet satin, plain waist, over which
was worn a Turkish jacket of black velvet
heavily ornamented with gold; a short,
straight skirt, foot-band of black velvet and
gold; red and black head covering which
had every appearance of having figured in
a nightmare and worn with all the evi
dences of the struggle left upon it.
This red, black and gold combination
calls up another not less striking, but more
pleasing. A material in which black velvet
and red satin stripes alternated formed a
full-length princess redingote, which was
worn over black lace skirt; tbe collar, cuffs
and lapels were of plain black velvet; a
small vest piece of gold, red and black ga
loon; girdle of black silk plaited cord with
an admixture of gold. The bat for this suit
was of black braid, faced with black velvet.
Scarlet tips and a band of galoon formed the
trimmings.
Hats go from nothing to immensity and
it is a pitv the latter shonld be placed
upon any but the heads of the prettiest
women. Itisbne of the disgusts of the
season that so many passe women should
try to appear young by the assistance of a
"Charlie" hat. This hat was evidently in
tended bv designers for the younger and
prettier half of woman kind. Charming
and summery looking hats are those ot
tulle, bent, pinched and twisted as if ruin
was to be tbe result, but the picturesque in
effect is attained. These worn with the
pretty sprigged challies, India silks or all
white gowns of the season are a cooling and
refreshing vision to eves tired and scorched
by the above described toilets.
MODELS OF GEACE.
A pretty gown of challie in which the
prevailing red played a part, was of cream
colored ground stamped with scarlet flowers
and green leaves. This was made Empire
style, lull straight skirt, full gathered waist,
low cut, with Infant sleeves and worn over a
guimpe of creamy silk muslin and long and
broad sash of scarlet silk; a ribbon of the
same shade about the throat and finishing
the mouslin sleeves constituted the trim
mings. A costume of smoke-gray India silk
stamped with scarlet sprigs is remembered
as a model
of artistic
grace. Skirt
slightly
d r aped,
trimmed on
tbe left side
with a light
er shade
of gray
lace; waist a
tight-fitting
plice folds fsSV
on one side W
of tbe front
and a lapel
of scarlet
velvet o n
the other.
A throat
band of vel
vet and Ja
bot of lace
finished the
neck. The
parasol car
ried with
this suit bad
every ap
pearance of
having been
made of the
same piece
with the
dress. The
hat was ot
gray chip
laced with
gray tulle nnd trimmed with scarlet flowers,
gloves of gray silk completed this charm
ingly elegant" toilet
ruSXTT Or FAILUEES.
To enumerate nil that is remembered of
the prettiest toilets worn during my stay at
this fashionable sanitarium would overrun
an article like this, bnt to sketch by de
scription the numerous failures in the art of
dressing well nitnessed even at Saratoga
would fill a book. It seems as if money
were only a misfortune where good taste is
lacking, and that gold can no more pur
chase the eye of an artist or a sense of the
eternal fitness of things than it can a seat
in heaven or bring an answer to prayer.
"While there were women in almost count
less numbers who arrayed themselves in a
way that ould have made Solomon, in his
historic glory, retire from tbe field, if they
bad lived in his dav; yet there were others
who looked as if their modiste had suddenly
gone crazy and executed ber weird fancies
upon their silk and all wool.
One tjore question. Why is it that swell
dom becomes pleasing, picturesque, at most,
eccentric, when arrayed in the extremes of
fashions, colors and shapes, but if the
middle or lower classes attempt the same dis
play, we at once apply such adjectives as
loud, vulgar, grotesqpe? Meg.
HOW WORTH MAKES FASHIONS.
lie Atsnrea on Interviewer That Styles
Are Not Made Far In Advance.
Paris Edition JiewYortHeralcLJ .
"What can I do for you," asked Mr.
Worth when I called at tbe neat office in
the well-Known courtyard off the Hub de la
Pair.
I explained to Mr. Worth that there was
a rumor aflont that the crinoline was about
to be revived and that fashions in the
autumn promised a revival of the modes of
the Empire.
Mr. Worth listened and then replied:
"The crinoline? Ho, neverl What the
autumn fashions will be I myself do not yet
know, but it will not be tbe crinoline."
"What! not know the autumn fashions
yet? I thought they were arranged for
nearly a year ahead."
"No; we shall not know the autumn fash
ions lor another month. Twice a year the
fashions for the coming seasons are arranged
in February and in August. At the pres
ent moment the weavers ot Lyons, Boubalx
and other manufacturing cities are busy on
their looms on new designs. In abont a
month or so my father and my brother, who
are now at the seaside, will make a tour
through the manufacturing districts, and
then they will have to use their judgment as
to what materials would make up well to
gether, and they will find new colors and
makes and combinations pretty enough to be
the fashions of the autumn."
"Then you only know the fashions that
will be a short time ahead."
"Yes, that is it, We are jut lite an
r
JBMt
mJmm
WWk
Jlvkmm
THE
artist who paint anything pretty that he
may see as he goes along. But could he
tell what he was going to paint three months
ahead? Hot a bit of it Horcauwe."
CAPTOEIUD A BIG SHAKE.
An Uelr Monster Crrate Wild Excitement
In New York' Central Park.
Some time in February, 1885, Director
Conklin, of the Central Park Menagerie,
imported three whopping! big snakes, writes
Night Watchman Donohne, in the New
York Herald. The largest of them was over
2d feet long and every bit of 33 inches in
circumference. He was an ugly monster,
with a head shaped not unlike that of a
bull terrier, and most ferocious looking
eyes.
When the snakes were received at the
arsenal they were placed temporarily in the
small boiler room. The big fellow was
valued at $200, and was kept in a box by
himself. Of this box Mr. Conklin kept tbe
key. One day he forgot to lock it Ton
can imagine his feelings when he found the
box empty. It was no laughing matter to
have a 20-foot snake, capable of squeezing
the life nut of anybody in no time loafing
around loose.
There was a deuce of a hunt. It was sur
mised, and correctly, too, as it afterward
turned out, that bis $25-a-foot snakeship
had crawled through a big hole where one
of the steam pipes was I laid across the fif
teen inch wall which seperated tbe small
boiler room from the store room. A carpen
ter was called in nnd the flooring was rip
ped up, but no trace was discovered of the
snake.
Five or six weeks rolled by. One night
I was eating my lunch between 10 and 11
o'clock. I bad looked my two dogs in the
store room as was my custom when attend
ing to the needs of the inner man. All of a
sudden the dogs began to bark like fury.
I picked up my lantern, ran to tbe door,
unlocked it and flashed mv light around.
There was the bie snake, or two-thirds of
him, extending down the brick wall, the
rest of him being hidden in the hole where
the steam pipe was laid. His eyes flashed firs
on the two dogs, whicb, not one bit scared,
were just dying to get at him.
But of course that wouldn't be good for
the snake or good for the dogs. 1 got them
outside and made tracks for Mr. Conklin's
house. He lived at Sixty-first street and
Second avenue. We procured reinforce
ments in the person of Tim Shannon on
our way back. When we got there we
found that the snake had orawled into the
small boiler room and was coiled up in a
corner, apparently enjoying a quiet nap.
Mr. Conklin sent -me to his office for a
couple of the large blankets. These Shan
non and I lapped together. We didn't suc
ceed in catching the snake napping. He
was very wide awake as soon as we drew
near him. He glared at us out of his big
vicious looking eyes and swayed his head to
aud fro in a mannerwhlch indicated that be
was in no mood for fooling, and proposed to
resent any attempt to take liberties with his
person.
When we made for him tnu nrst time ne
compelled us to retreat before we got a
chance to come fo close quarters and grab
him. He was prepared for us the second
time, too. He raised his head until it was
several feet above tbe gronud, and when we
ran at him he shot it out just like a pngilist
striking straight from the shoulder. We
dodged and fell back again.
The third time we had better luck. He
was prepared for another lunge, but Shan
non upset his calculations and nonplussed
him bv chucking a blanket over him and
grabbing him behind the gills. I caught on
close by, and, exerting all our strength, we
succeeded in landing him in the box.
BOTBUEIT AND FEE0KLES.
They Differ Only In That lbs Former la So
Big- It Covera Ton.
"Sunburn," says a Philadelphia doctor
in the Press of that city, "is only a uni
versal freckle, and if you know what freckles
are you know what sunburn is as well as I
do myself. Lentigo (our name for freckles)
is an excessive deposit of pigment in the
skin, appearing as small, round, or irregu
larly shaped pin's head or pea-sized yellow
ish, brownish or blackish spots. They are
seldom seen before the third year, and with
advancing vears they may disappear per
manently. Persons with fair skins, and
particularly those with red hair, are especi
ally liable to their development; neverthe
less they appear in brunettes and mulattoes.
A freckle is shown by microscopical exami
nation to consist essentially of a circum
scribed collection ot normal pigment cells
in the rete mucosum. Chloasma (liver spot)
differs from it simply in the size and shape
of tbe patches.
"But I cannot describe sunburn as a uni
versal freckle without calling attention to
one important distinction. Freckles aro
sometimes due to a morbid condition of the
system. I may add that one bronzes more
quickly from exposure to the sun during the
morning hours than in the afternoon, while
exercising than when at rest, and when the
atmosphere is surcharged with moisture
than when it is dry.
"And how about the ladles, doctor?"
"My dear sir, veils and gloves at tbe sea
side for ladies who have plnmp arms and
necks. It is simply a question of full dress
next winter. And yet I must say that I
knew a very original young lady who scored
a positive triumph at a lancy dress ball by
appearing with her bare arms delicately
bronzed on the upper side. It seemed to'
make her skin look all the fairer) and doubt
less a suggestion of healthy outdoor life is
the crowning charm of beauty."
LIKE SWAYING SERPENTS.
The Undulating Walk Society Girls Are Ea.
deavorlns to Acquire.
Mew York "World. 1
Society girls have taken up the stndy of
grace, which consists in being gently ser
pentine. To attain this undulating walk
the head must remain firm, tbe shoulders
droop and the movement come from the hips.
In this way there will be no tossing or shak
ing of the skirts, and the willowy, swaying
motion at the waist will emphasize the snake
effect sought For the cultivation of this
indefinable charm, walking, next to dancing
is the best exercise, as it brings the muscles
into fairer uniform action.
The undulations made by the head, chest
and torso In a vertical plane are not only
prodnctive of Hogarth's line of beauty but
tend to perfect physical health. Grace is
such an indescribable thing that negatives
aid in the definition. It is not graceful to
walk on the heels, to take long strides, or
to raise the foot from the ground more than
two inches; it is not gracetnl to stump or to
lay the foot down with a defiant or resound
ing noise; it is not graceful to square the
shoulders soldier fashion or to set the el
bows akimbo, as in driving; it is not grace
ful to hurry, hustle or fuss, for speed is not
conducive to grace ol motion, save among
thoroughbreds. Another foe of grace is
self-consciousness. The really pleasing,
graceful, gracious woman rises above her
raiments, and once her toilet is complete
she gives no more thought to it
IK PATBI0TI0 C0L0B&
A Plant Front Trhnnntrpec Thnt Dllcbt Hn It
Tor Onr National Flower.
PallMaUBudijet.J
A wonderful flower has been disco vered
in the Isthmus of Tehuantepeo. Its chief
peculiarity is the habit of changing its
colors during the day. In the morning it is
white; when the sun is at its zenith it is red,
and at night it is blue. Tbe red, white and
blue flower grows on a tree about the size of
a gnava tree, and only at .noon does it give
out any perfume.
Like the Earth.
Detroit Free Press.
The Argentine Bepnblio is like the earth,
in that it requires but one day to complete
a revoiuuesv
PITTSBURG- DIBPATQB,
TEACHING THE GIRLS.
Opinions of Six Prominent Ladies on
Their Proper Edncation.
BRANCHES PDEELT ORNAMENTAL.
Mrs. Senator Davis Makes Her 0wn Dresses
and Trims Her Own Cats,
WOMEN SHOULD BE BELF-SUPP0KT1HG
rwBiTTiir ron tbb pisr-ATcn.
Probably there has never been a time in
tbe world's history when the subjeot of edu
cation in all its various forms and phases
and the social and political problems con
nected with it have occupied so large a share
of the earnest consideration of thoughtful
men and women as now. From Senator
Blair, with hit mnoh-abused educational
bill, to Cardinal Gibbons, with his opposi
tion to strictly secular schools, the subject
of instructing the rising generation is being
generally discussed in legislative halls, the
pulpit, the press, the country store and the
market place.
But of all the educational questions which
receive consideration in this hubbub of
debate perhaps none other is of snch vital
importance as that of how shall our
daughtera.be educated? The wisest and best
method of training tho girls who
are to be the mothers of the coming gen
eration should take precedence over every
other educational consideration, since with
out good mothers we cannot have good men,
and withont good men we cannot have a
good Government or a great and prosperous
nation. Those best fitted to solve this all
important problem are the wise and good
mothers of to-day tbe women who hold
honored places in the land and themselves
have reared lovely daughters to ornament
society and to rise up and call them blessed.
To obtain the views of such mothers on this
vital issue I recently elicited from some of
the best-known women in the public life of
our national capital the following ex
pressions of opinion:
Geoffrey Williston Chbistihe.
Mrs. Windom, wife of the Secretary of
the Treasury, had this to say:
SHOULD BEGIN AT HOME.
"I think that a young lady's education,
like charity and every other good quality,
should begin at home. She should, first of
all, be thoroughly instrncted in domestio
duties. I should be very sorry to have a
daughter of mine assume the responsibility
of a home and house of her own without
possessing such knowledge. Perhaps it is
not essential that she should be perfectly
familiar with every trifling detail, but she
shonld be sufficiently so to ba thoroughly
mistress of her own house. Yet, how many
a woman there is of the Dora Copperfield
type, who scarcely dares to give a servant
an order because she feels that in all such
matters she is a goose and that the servant
knows she isl
"As regards the scholastlo education of
girls, I think a knowledge of history and
literature very essential. The study of
mathematics is good mental discipline, but
many young ladies possessing excellent
ability in other studies have very little in
mathematics, and in that case I do not thick
it wise to tax them with the heavier mathe
matical studies. A knowledge or modern
languages is very desirable. European
travel is now almost universal among peo
ple or means, and a lamillarlty witn tbe
language of the countries one visits adds
greatly to the pleasure of the trip.
"As regards the purely ornamental
branches of a young lady's education, I
think that the question of which is the most
desirable must be determined by natural
ability and inclination in each individual
case. I think it a foolish idea that every
society girl must be taught music, paintiug
and various kinds of lancy work, even
though she lacks the slightest trace of liking
or talent for either or all of them. If girl
bas musical ability and none In tbe painting
line let her devote to music all the time she
can spare for ornamental branches, and vice
versa. What folly it is for a girl with no
music in her soul to spend years trying to
learn to strum upon a piano, having all the
time no more real perception ot what she is
doing than a poll parrot has when it leirna
to say 'Pretty Polly!' As soon as she
marries, or gives up taking lessons for any
other reason, she ceases to practice, and all
the time and money SDent on her 'musical
education' is completely wasted, for, while
she has no ability to learn, she forgets' with
wonderful facility and soon does not know
one note from another.
"If a young lady has no talent for musio
or painting, but bas a gift for art needle
work, let her bend her energies in that
direction, or if she lacks talent for that,also,
but I eels that she can be a good cook, let ber
turn ber attention lo culinary art She will
feel happier at the close of Hie to have the
sweet consciousness of having made one pud
ding than to know that she has slaughtered
half a dozen Beethoven sonatas or painted
ten daubs called 'pictures' by courtesy."
doesn't like the society gtbl.
"If thev are educated to be good women,
with good common sense, they are pretty
sure to do tbe right thing at the right time'
said Mrs. William H. Miller, wife of the
Attorney General, when I asked her how our
daughters should be educated. 'We hear a
great deal nowadays about the society girl,
and about how girls should be educated to
shine in society. For my own part I cannot
endure the term 'society girl,' nor tbe idea
of having a girl's edncation directed to
making her attractive in society. I believe
that what is called 'society' in tbe personal
columns of the newspapers is but a very
slight incidental part of every sensible girl's
life, and I believe that the girls who are
most attractive in society are those who are
most attractive at home.
"From her earliest years every girl, no
matter what her station in lite, should be
made to feel an interest in all that pertains
to'home. Every Hood eirl desires to heln
her mother, and by doing so she gradually
becomes well versed in all that pertains to
housekeeping.
"What branches of what we usually un
derstand by education a girl should study,
must depend wholly upon her circumstances
in life and her natural predilections. The
higher edncation, 01 which we have heard
so much of late years, I believe to be useful
and necessary for some women. Above all,
I would have every girl taught to be self
supporting. As regards what are ordinarily
called accomplishments, they must be left
to the choice of each individual. It is no
use to try to teach a girl music, painting or
fanoy"work if she has no taste or liking in
that way. In my judgment a woman may
be very accomplished without knowing a
note of music, a single color or tbe simplest
fancy stitch. That woman is the most ac
complished who can make herself the most
agreeable.
"One great point in the education of a
girl is to give her proper views of life. To
teach her habits of industry and economy.
She can not too early learn the great lesson
that every scrap of practical knowledge
which she may by any means be able to ac
quire may at some time be useful. Let her
learn to be always contented, cheerful,
good tempered and kind even nnder the
most trying circumstances; let her heart be
cultivated even at the expense of her head
if necessary, let her learn in short to be a
good woman in every relation of life, and
then, even though she be unable to write
her own name, she will have an education
superior to any that all the universities of
both the old and new world can offer."
ADVOCATES THE PBACXICAX.
"Ideas of female education have under
gone a complete revolution since I was a
girl," said Mrs. Henry B. Payne, wife of
the junior Benator from Ohio. "Years ago
young ladies received a strictly belles lettres
education solely. The practical side was
entirely lost kight of. Young ladies were
though't too ethereal to require any acquain
tance with the stern facts and realities of
life. They were regarded as
Beings ranch too bright and good
For human nature's dally food."
"As a consequence they partook ot none
SUNDAY, AUGUST 10,
of the substantial of education, nnd their
intellectual palates were regaled only with
its ices, bon-bons and cakes. Woman was
regarded as having been formed in a much,
more delicate mold and of a much finer
quality of clay than man, and the idea of
permitting her to enter against him in such
a severe mental contest as that in which
Miss Fawcett recently triumphed at the old
English University of Cambridge, would
have been received not only with opposition
but with positive horror. The very sug
gestion of such a thing would have been re
garded almost in the light of a sacrilegious
profanation.
"Now all this is changed. The education
of woman is largely practical, as it should
be. Almost every occupation in . which
man may engage is open to her. She may
teach, preach, practice law or medicine,
edit a newspaper, ride a bicycle, keep store,
farm, keep books, clerk, canvass, be a stump
speaker, a steamboat captain, a blacksmith,
a deputy sheriff, a barber, or engage in a
hundred other avocations, everyone of which,
besides those I have named, are now being
followed successfully by women in various
parts of onr country.
"I must say that I am inclined to think
we educate our daughters too much. I
mean that too much valuable time and effort
is expended by them in tbe pursuit or knowl
edge that can never be of any benefit to
themselves or others. Geometry and trigo
nometry are studied by girls who can never
have the slightest use for either. Latin and
Greek are pored over by other young women
who will not be able to decline a noun or an
adjective in either language two weeks af
ter marriage, and who would not be able to
darn their husband's socks to any better ad
vantage if they could. Young ladies who
have no music in them are kept drumming
away at the piano for years while others,
who can never by any possibility have the
slightest conception of true art, are kept
drawing away with brushes and colors.
"The education of onr daughters, then,
resolves Itself, to my mind, into what is
most practical and therefore best for each
individual. So far as ornamental branches
are concerned, I should regard art as the
most important where there was any talent
for it"
GODDESSES of the home.
"Every young woman who desires to be
and to appear intelligent mnst be well read
in the general information of the day," said
Mrs. James McMillan, wife of the junior
Senator from Michigan. "At the same
time I think a great many young ladies de
vote a great deal too much attention to read
ing newspapers. This class of publications
is now so voluminous, and their contents is
so largely made up of personal gossip, that
one mav read and read and yet gain very
little that is ot any practical advantage
that Is worth remembering, or that can be
remembered withont a severe mental effort,
becaase it is so trifling in character.
"Tbe great object of a girlJs education
should be, of course, to fit her to perform
the duties of home. It is not necessary for
the acquirement of this knowledge that she
should scrnb floors or go into the kitchen to
scour pots and pans and wash dishes. If a
girl is brought np whero she has an oppor
tunity to observe her mother's manner of
superintending domestio affairs she will
readily learn all that is necessary for the
mistress of a household to know. I think
very well of the acquirement of the modern
languages. Their study is not only good
mental discipline, but a'knowledge of them
may be of great practical utility. If a
young lady pursues them far enough she
may become competent to teach them, and
thus bo self-supporting."
SHOULD HAVE A TRADE.
Mrs. Senator Cushman K. Davis, of
Minnesota, like Mrs. Payne, is a strong ad
vocate of the practical in the education of
girls. "I believe." she said, "that above
everything else every girl I care not what
ner circumstances in lire may be shonld be
educated to earn her own living. In this
conntry, where reverses of fortune are so
sudden and so frequent, this must ever be
the most important part of education for
the rich as well as tbe poor. I imbibe mv
ideas in this respect from an old Scotch aunt
who took my two sisters and myself when
wo were left orphans at an early age and
bronght us up as her own children. Born
of wealthy parents, and accustomed during
the greater part of her life to every luxury
that money could buy, she had been reduced
by unexpected reverses to comparative pov
erty at the time when she took us in charge.
Utterly ignorant herself of every art by
which she might have added to her slender
income she resolved that we should all be
self-supporting. Two of my sisters she
made sohool teachers, while 1 was fitted to
teach music.
"At an early age she bought me a doll
and materials for its dresses and told me I
must provide dolly with clothes. I set to
work and eventually succeeded iu clothing
her neatly. When I was 10 years of age
aunt bought me a pattern, some navy blue
cloth and some black velvet, and told me I
must make myself a gown, which I did
greatly to her satisfaction and mv own and
the envy of my little playmates. From that
time to the present day I have never paid 1
cent to a dressmaker or a milliner, nor has
anyone else done so for me. Every dress,
ha and bonnet I wear Is made and trimmed
by my own hands."
A QUESTION OF INTELLIGENCE.
.Mrs. Senator Nathan F. Dixon, ot Bhode
Island, one of the most charming ladies of
Washington society, laughed musically
when I asked her how her daughters should
be educated. "That is a funny question to
ask me," she said merrily, "when you take
into consideration the fact that I never had
a daughter, but on the same principle that
David Coperfield's Aunt Betsy Trotwood
was constantly telling ber nephew what his
non-existent sister Betsy would have thought
and said and done if she had ever been
born, I suppose I may venture to give my
views on the question you have proposed.
"First of all, I believe that education is
largely a question of natural intelligence.
If that is present in a marked degree a little
edncation will achieve wonderful results.
If it is lacking education to almost nny ex
tent is comparatively useless. To illustrate
my meaning I may cite the case of Elihu
Burritt, the learned blacksmith, who with
out any initruction whatever acquired a
great number of ancient and modern lan
guages. On the contrary, I know a family
01 children, ot ignorant nut wealthy parents,
who, though they have had every advantage,
cannot speak six words of tbeir own lan
guage correctly nor write a respectable
letter.
"There is a peculiarly bright and quick
natural intelligence, intuitive in perception
and electrical in comprehension and gener
alization, learning instantaneously from
everything it sees and hears; mentally pho
tographing everything within the range of
vision. It learns or a fact and generalizes
from it as quickly and naturally as 1 colt
runs at play, and its conclusions are as
pressing as a bloodhound's scent A thing
once told is never forgotten, a mistake onoe
corrected is never repeated.
"If a girl possesses this natural intelli
gence her schooling matters little. She will
learn for herself more readily than any in
structor can teach her. A girl's best
teacher should always be her mother, and
her best schoolroom the family circle of tbe
home."
AN ECONOMICAL CEACKEB.
Bis Unique Reason for Not Greasing His
Pqaeeky Old Ox-Cart.
Hew York Son. J
I had been looking over the battle fields
around Marietta, Ga.. and was five miles
from the town when a cracker came along
with an ox and a cart and offered me a lilt
After riding some distance, I realized that
both wheels were sadly in need ot grease,
and I asked him why he didn't lubricate.
"What fur?" he asked.
"To make the cart draw more easily."
"Shol This yere ox doan mind. He 'un
doan' know."
"But it would stop tbe squeaking."
"Yes, I reckon, bnt the squeakin' doan
hurt."
"It would save your wheels," I finally
said.
"Shol This old enwt ain't wuth savin'."
"Didn't you eer grease ft?" I persisted.
"Once. A Yonkee rode to town with me
and bought me a box of stuff."
"How did it work?"
"Mio-htv ilick. but we dnn snread it on
hoe cake ana ate uP weesv
? ' . , . i. .11 1 .r..
1890.
-i-
FADS FOE THE HOUSE.
Utility Combined With Feauty in tho
Late Screen Designs,
PAPfEE MACHE IN DECORATION.
Delicate Oriental Embroideries from Aprons
of the Feasants.
MUSICAL PDEN1TDEE HATING A BUN
wwrrxR pob thi mgpjiTcir.j
2TD now the dec
orative screens
are giving place
to screens of util
ity. The de
mands of the
modern woman
are more exacting than those of her sister of
BOO years ago, who only thought of screens
when the heat of the mammoth hearth made
red her face; for then, as now, woman was
ever thoughtful of ber complexion. But of
late years screens have been diverted from
their old-time hearthstone utilitarian pur
pose to occupy a decorative field. To be
sure they have occasionally concealed the
clothes basket or a shabby corner, but that's
all. How they are certainly useful adj uncts
to any room.
Those newly evolved screens come in three
varieties for parlor, study and sewing room.
For parlor, one side is decorated, but the
other is all business crossed and recrossed
with bands of silk, serving to hold an end
less number of photographs, visiting cards,
dance orders, the favors of tbe winter "ger
mane," or any other graceful and pretty
souvenirs'. For the stndy, the same rib
boned or taped rack holds correspondence,
THE MODEHN SCBEEN.
with a place for a pipe, and a hook for to
bacco pouch. For sewing room, pockets are
sewed on, to hold knitting; slips are ar
ranged for the scissors; a huge cushion
is suspended on one panel and a
rag bag on another in short, all the appur
tenances of a thrifty housewife are ready at
hand, "a place for everything and every
thing in its place." Frequently thesescreens
are furnished with candelabra tops. Fre
quently apertures six inches wide and a
foot tall are cut completely through a panel
like the letter XT upside down, and a shelf
fitted across the bottom of it; upon this a
bit of bric-a-brac rests and gives a novel ap
pearance to tbe structure.
This is a productive age. I went into
a house the other day and sat on a hall chair
upholstered, Venetian style, in what appeared
to be grand old Italian leather, but it
wasn't, it was stamped paper. At the win
dows hung shades iu what looked like Hol
land linen, but it wasn't, it was paper. The
wall tilings were in tbe friable hard-baked,
ceramic sort, that seemed as though trans
ferred from a Cordovan cottage; paper again.
At the windows a soft saceidotal light stole
in through what was apparently stained
glass, but it wasn't, itwas'colored oil paper.
The ceiling wasin heavy crossbars in relief,
like medieval rafters; again paper. On tbe
walls bung a breast plate, crossed
with arms which spoke of the days
of heraldry and romance, but they, like the
rest, were only paner. Papier-mache, I
ought to say, for it is in this pulpy con
dition that paper is first worked to mold it
to the hundred and one purposes it now
serves. A bronze plaque, a foot and a half
of surface diameter,the bead of Shakespeare,
or any other subject in relief, is worth about
$100. But the other day we saw one of tbe
most perfect productions imaginable in this
papier-mache for ?4. Besides plaques, armor
is made of this papier-mache shields,
breast-plates, statuary and anything of this
sort, with price in the above proportions.
Applique work is rapidly becoming "the
rage." You buy plain fabrics, and from an
endless profusion of borders, centers, cor
ners and fringes, you can easily, with a
trifling ingenuity, lay out beautiful pat
terns, and patterns you may be sure that
abominable next-door neighbor hasn't got.
Here is a simple scneme for building a
lounge. It is strong and comfortable, and
when draped with any rug or covering large
enough to fall to the floor, you have some
thing vou're not afraid to throw yourself
upon, as mo ariia. uo i
nothing particularly beautiful, but clotbe it
in vour mind's eye and it's solid comfort
and strong, too an attribute few lounges,
unless expensive, possess.
Did a dealer ever take you into his confi
dence and explain the origin of some of his
Oriental decorations? Listen I This valance
of Hungarian embroidery came off of a
peasant's apron. This sofa back was from
the sides of a Turkish saddle bag; this floss
work, from the trousers of a Persian woman;
tbis screen panel from tbe back piece of a
Mandarin's coat; tbis table scarf part of an
Indian dervish robe. Few of the Oriental
embroideries which come now to this coun
try were ever intended for the purposes they
are applied to. They are from second-hand
stores, old clothes shops, private families
and the mosques. For among all classes,
rich and poor, nnlearned and learned, em
broidering is a second nature.
One day about two years ago I was look
ing over a lot of embroideries in tbe store
room of an import dealer, when I pricked
my finger on a half tied package. I drew
out the offending parcel, and to my surprise
discovered a petticoat almost complete,
beautifully embroidered, but with the
needle and an end of unused thread still
hanging. How in the world it got into the
lot no one knew, but last week the bnyer,
who had taken an interest in the incident
and followed it np, explained. "The bun
dle," he said, "came from Koraiah in
Turkey-in-Asla from a mosane. The peo
ple ot this district in obtaining tbe spiritual
consolation of their priesthood, indulge a cus
tom of sending church money or gifts, and
among tbe very poor these contributions
are usually examples of their handicraft
The unfinished petticoat belonged to a
young eirl near Komiah who died. She
had no money, and on sending her body to
burial, the unfinished skirt, with its dainty
embroidery just as her fingers had left it,
was sent with ber as an bumble tender for
some prayer to rest her spirit"
i.ders the mantle -valance of a "WashingtonJ
xne oottom Dana 01 was siurs now oor
beauty, but little she knows, I fancy, that It
ever bad bought the repose of a soul.
fT saw a bedroom tbe other day the walls
of which illustrated my idea very nicely.
There were about a dozen clever etchings lOx
6 in inches size surrounded by pearl-colored
mats and very wide fringes of natural un
varnished cedar of the peculiar purplish
red color, perfectly simple, and so shallow
and flat that the glass almost came to tbe
surface. The paper was a cream tint with
little detached rosebuds and knots of pink
and blue ribbons showing here and there
about a yard apart That wall was to my
mind a'gem of good taste.
The rattle and slam of screen doors or
A Good, Strong Lounge.
chairs on tiling can be stopped by the use of
rubber-tipped ticks or buttons. Another
device which knowing ones buy is the sash
rod with rubber tips and spring center. The
rod is in two parts, one telescoping over the
other against a coiled wire spring. You
haven sash curtain to hang at your windows
and instead of all the trouble and nuisance
of nailing to fixtures, you simply get one of
those extension spring rods as big around as
a lead pencil, and about three inches longer
than tbe width of the casement and by press
ing it slightly you reduce it to the right
length and adjust it within the uprights.
The spring and the rubber tips hold it in
place.
Oxidized silver pole trimmings are com
ing more and more into use every day. In
a shop uptown in Hew York they sell musi
cal beds. The mere pressure of the head
upon the pillow is sufficient to start out
"Annie Booney" or "Marguerite." Musi-
cal fnrnlture, in fact, is becoming quite
prevalent among those who indulge in the
expensive fids. Thev are frequently fur
nished with boxes which play a dozen or
more tunes, with bell and flute attachments.
They are of French manufacture, and run
in prices all the way from 500 to 3,000
apiece. C. B. Clifford.
BATTLESSAKE FABMIH'fJ.
How the Bepllfea Are Cnagbt Fattened
nnd made to Yield OH.
J. E. Cbilds has a monopoly of snake cul
tivation and the production of rattlesnake
oil in Arkansas, in which State is located
what is well known through that country as
the Childs Snake Farm. Tbis peculiar and
unenvied enterprise is situated in the sub
urbs of Harrisburg, in tbe northeastern part
of the State, where snakes, especially rat
tlers, are found in abundance.
The manner in which the rattlesnakes are
caught and handled is enough to make cold
chills rnn over persons who are timid.
Twenty-five cents to SI per pound for rattle
snakes, however, makes it an inducement
for the natives. Two men go together. One
of them carries along, forked pole or cane,
and when a snake is found this pole Is used
to hold the reptile to tbe ground. The other
snake hunter carries a strong cord, which is
looped over the head of the poisonous prey,
and is then nsed for carrying the reptile to
market (which, however, is done without
injury to tbe snake.
When tbe snake catchers arrive at tbe
residence df Mr. Childs the latter, in a careless-like
manner takes the matter in band,
and if a box of rattlers, for Instance, is
brought to him, he removes the lid of the
box and takes the snake (wild lrom tbe
woods) out just as one would reach in for
and take hold of a rabit The rattler, as
soon as the top of his cage has been taken
off, sets up a continuous rattle and hisses
fearfully. Mr. Childs, howtver, pays no
attention to this little racket, but simply
takes the snake to bis farm, weighs it, pays
the catcher and is then ready for a repe
tition of tbe act A good big rattlesnake
will weigh from six to ten pounds, and If
fat will be worth nearly or quite as many
dollars
The size of the snake farm is about half
an acre, with a tightly closed pen in its
center, which is the abiding place of the
snakes. Here the ugly reptiles are kept and
fattened, and when they are ready to be
put under the process for the production of
oil the reptiles heads are neatly chopped
off, and by means of a string are tied, head
upward, to the side of tbe pen where the sun
is brightest The heat of tbe sun, it is said,
cansestheoil of the snake to drip out. and
it is caught in a receptacle and laid aside to
oe suosequently sold at from ll 00 to ?1 an
ounce or from 820 to 532 a pint
TOLSTOI AND BELLAMY.
A Chance for Pistole and Coffee for
Two
Willi tbe Eceentrlo Anthorc
I offered to send the Count a copy of
"Looking Backward," says a correspondent
of the Hew York TTorfdin describingan in
terview with Count Tolstoi at his Bussian
home. He had already read it He didn't
know whether the Government permitted
it to circulate in Bussia, but he had re
ceived a copy tbrougb a mend, line story
was very well told, he said, but that was all
he could say for it There was nothing new
in it, and ail the ideas bad been taken from
Carl Marx's "Kapital." Mr. Bellamy had
simply clad in popular clothes a set of old
ideas belonging to other people. Henry
George's "Progress and Poverty" is far
superior, he thought He was astonished
at the popularity of "Looking Backward."
"It is not only a plagiarism," he said,
"but is incomplete as a story and fallacious
throughout To be of value, the book should
have shown how the results which are por
trayed were to be arrived at. "Without that
'Looking Backward is nothing but a fairy
tale. Then, men shonld Uvea life as happy
and perfect as that which Mr. Bellamy de
scribes, of their own free will and spon
taneous goodness, and not require Govern
ment regulation for all their actions."
Presreie of the New KttTT.
Detroit free Press.
The people of San Francisco have pre
sented the war vessels of the United States,
named for that citv, with a silver service
costing ?7,500. A'uiong the articles are two
punch bowls, a small one, for ue when the
officers of the vessel are in training, and a
much lareer one. to be Dlacedin commission
when they are endeavoring to nut their
guests from some British man-of-war under
the table. Peace has IU victories as veil as
war.
,--
,
DEESSING THE BABY.
.
Mistakes Onr Grandmothers Made in
Clothing Little Folks.
COMMON SENSE THE BEST GDIDE.
How Little Chernbs Are Made Fretful by
Too Much Drvgoods.
A COLUMN POE THE T0UNG MOTHERS
rwarrrmr fob tm dismtch.
"When two people go into business
together tbey sit down and first calculate
the cost: "How can I obtain the best re
suits with the least expenditure of money
and labor, and also keep the bnsiness
abreast of the newest inventions aud custom
of the day?"
"When, however, the young mother goes!
into the business of dressing her first baby
she does not ask: "How can I dress my
child according to the best physiological
light of the day? How can I dress it so that
it will be perfectly comfortable and healthy7
How can I dress it with the greatest ease
and least trouble to myself?" "What they
do unconsciously say Is: "How did my
grandmother do this?" And so they go
back CO years for tbeir styles. All honor
and glory to the grandmothers, and may
God bless them 1 Tbey did nobly and
beautifully considering the light they had,
bnt if the mothers of to-day do not manage
better than their grandmothers they manage
very badly, indeed.
GEANDMOTHEX'3 MISTAKES.
The young mother can look without a
shudder at the terribly complicated system
of clothing which our ancestors have
handed down to us; first, the little bandage
to go two or three times around tne bodv;
then the little linen shirt, tbe coldest goods
in the world; then the pinning blanket,
which, next to the bandage. Is the most un
comfortable and unhealthy garment
ever pnt on a baby. Then the
skirt with its objectionable tightness
about the chest; and, lastly, the dress. All
these garments clothe the chest warmly and
leave tbe shoulders with but a slight cover
ing of thin musljn the dress. Tlie shoul
der blanket whicb is supposed to remedy
this deficiency, is a snare and a delusion;
sometimes being over tbe head, sometimes
about the snoulders and neck, and some
times off entirely, and these changes are all
exposures. Babies should, lrom the first,
go without tbem.
At night the poor little thing is expected
to sleep sweetly with iu bindage, its pin
ning blanket, its skirt and a double gown;
all senseless articles, for while babies should
be kept warm, I am confident many of them
are made fretful and weakened by being
kept too much so. A Canton flannel night
dressisali that is needed. Indeed, a good
rule is to dres3 ourbabies as we would like
to be dressed if we were babies.
"WHAT XUBSES SAT.
Too many mothers fail of having the
courage to throw the models of tbe past to
the winds and make a fresh start on their
own responsibility. I shall never forget
the deep anxiety displayed by a number of
experienced advisers when I refnsed to
bundle up my first-born in such fashion.
"Jut, said Mrs. Gamp's proto'ype, "we
must put on a bandage, and put it on snug
ly, too, or the baby will be all out of shape,
and perhaps rupture himself."
"Nonsense," said tbe good doctor whose
advice I was putting into practice, "a baby
is a little animal, and all young animals
are in constant motion and need plenty of
room for the distension of their muscles.
Don't you suppose the Creator knew what
he was about when he made the abdominal
wall so elastic? How otherwise is the
child's digestion to be accomodated?"
Of course the nurse opposed this en
croachment upon a time-honored custom,
nevertheless, a little tact and explanation
won her over as it finally will do with all
sensible people especially as the baby
never cried and did not once suffer from
colic I If small waists are so desirable as
many mothers appear to think, would it not
be better to use more efficient measures than
a flannel band from the earliest period of
infancy 7 Our Chinese friends know the
importance of beginning early if they
would secure the chief element of Chinese
beauty; and I am convinced that onr suc
cess would be much greater if we would be
gin to remake our babies while their bones
are soft and pliable and their shape entirely
in our own hands I
SESSIBLE DRESSING.
It is easy to find fault, bat it is not so easy
to point out a better way; yet there is an
infinitely better model, perfectly healthful
and beautiful, entirely free from all the ob
jections mentioned and very convenient to
tbe mothers and comfortable for the child.
AH the unyielding bauds can be cast aside.
The first nndergarment, cut princess with
long sleeves and hizh neck made of soft,
medium weight canton flannel, combines
shirt and pinning blanket Tbe
next garmeot is the flannel skirt,
cut the same way but without sleeves,
leaving good large armholes which should
be scalloped not bound. This should be
made of woolen or baby flannel, and can be
as ornamental about tbe bottom asdesired;
over this is the dress. Any prevailing style
can be nsed, though a plain slip, cut prin
cess, is advocated. All the garments are
placed sleeve within sleeve and are all
drawn over baby's head together. There is
one turning and all are buttoned and tied,
one saiety-pin beinc nsed instead of fifteen,
the nsual number, and baby is dressed iu
five minutes instead of from 30 to 40 min
utes, and the mother and child are far less
weary and cross than by the old method.
If mothers will only grasp tbe idea aud then
work accordingly, changing the garments
as to warmth and beauty, but adhering
strictly to the "no band" system, in spite of
the well-meaning friend3 who will tell them
that tbeir babies will have an abnormally
large waist, or be ruptured, or have its bones
broken, etc., etc., we shall have happier
h.ihies nnd healthier mothers!
Every superfluous article, like white
skirts, and the little linen shirts, adds not
only to the trouble of dressing a little baby
but also adds to the washing, which is a se
rious consideration to the average family
keeping only one servant Cleanliness 13
the most important consideration where a
little baby is concerned, and tne lightening
of the wash bv making the clothes simply so
that they can'be easily ironed will save a
good deal of unnecessary trouble in the
house. I speak lrom experience and not as
tyr0. F. K. E. "Wade.
BISXEB GEBTBTJDE Iff TE0TJBLE.
An Anonjmom Letter Making- loslanatloss?
Against the Iirprr Nanr.
Miss Amy C. Fowler, the young English
woman who, as Sister Bose Gertrude, has
become a leper nurse, has not, it seems, been
received very affectionately by certain per
sons in Hawaii. Tbe Monitor, a Catholic
weekly of San Frauoisco, publishes an
anonymous letter from Waiatua in which
mean insinuations are made against Miss
Fowler.
The writer of the letter says that the gifts
received by tbe young woman for tbe lepers,
which amounted in value to $2,200 approxi
mately, have not yet been distributed among
tbe unfortunates. The writer also accuses
Miss Fowler of seeking newspaper notori
ety. Tbe latter charge is known to be
false, as the reporters had great difficulty in
getting her story when she passed through
the United States. The charges probably
emanated from some jealous person.
Thnt Wrllnbone Cottnce.
Apropos of summer "cottage" expenses,
it is being tattled about that the decora
tions and furnishings of one room alone of
the modest summer home of the "Westing,
(houses at Lenox have cost, in round nam
bers, $30,000,
BaV, ...
WttttkMltm