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THE CH!LDRENOF FASHION.
Katiher They Nor Tbelr Molli-ra Are na Bud
aa Mr. Stnnln'a Lady-LoTe Wonld Ilnvo
It Believed What the Seaaon OOera for
the I.ittlo Folk.
"WBITTEX FOS THB DIEPJLTCH.3
HAT Miss Dorothy Ten
nant thinks she knows
about children is second
only to what her affianced
groom, Henry M. Stan
ley, is certain he knows
n regard to Africa. If
Miss Tennant had de
layed her little speech
making concerning the
modern child and its
mother, until some time
in the future, it is prob.
able she would haTe made
it differently. "The
standpoint changes the
view," yon know, and if
there is one thing more
than another concerning
which we can learn better
Irom experience than by
observation, that thing is
motherhood.
From her present standpoint Miss Ten
onaut thinks the fashionable mother of to
day labors under the impression that the
sooner her little ones are trained in the
artifices of social life the
more charming they be
come; that she sacrifices
her children to maternal
vanity; regards them as
vehicles for effect; that
her children are over
dressed, and that she
trails them about with
her that their finery mat
attract attention to their
mother; that she appre
ciates the flatteries lav
ished upon them since
she thinks they are
meant 'to gratify her
vanity and advertise hei
name; and that beyonO
calling her little ones ti
her side now and thci
to show them off or t
make them a screen foi
a flirtation, the mother
never attcmps the
.slightest notice of them
during a round of visits, nor attempts to
check forwardness nor the consumption of
illimitable and indigestible refreshments.
TJKFOnTUJfATE IJ- ACQUAINTANCES.
"What do you think of that? Know you
cne such mother? On my honor I do not.
Evidently Miss Tennant has been unfor
tunate in her acquaintance with women and
children.
But why this everlasting rant about the
societv woman. Who is she? "What is
she? Take a mental review of mothers
with whom you have both a society and
home-life acquaintance and see how many
you find answering to this hateful descrip
tion. I think you will be surprised at the
limited number. As I look over my list
ol so-called lasnionable women known to
me personally and by reputation, I und
some of the most devoted wives and
mothers; the best
housekeepers and
most successful
business women.
I have in mind
at this moment a
popular society
woman, the
mother of six
children, the
eldest onlv 12
years of age, who
is fashion ed
itress of a ladies'
journal;is a mem
ber of two clubs
which 6he never
disappoints with
a paper or after
dinner speech
when called upon;
supervises her
own household,
even to the ex
tent of doing her
own "pickling
and preserving,"
a Martha at home,
a Mary in the
church all this
&.
and keeping perfect step with the society
brigade.
1 his is no fancy picture ana I nave no
idea it is an exceptional one. I have seen
another mother, in reception attire, stop to
soothe a restless child upon her lace-covered
bosom, though everything and everybody
wnited. And how many do we know who
have decided at the last moment to remain
witli baby ami foneit the evening's triumphs
and pleasures without the least regret.
Mother love is conceded the only unselfish
love. Purelv unselfish it certainly is. Miss
Tennant to the contrary.
WHAT ABOUT THE CHILDREN?
Not contented with the tirade against
mothers this, just now, prominent woman,
turns upon her children and calls names.
They are "affected, vain, deceitful little
prigs." She quotes Charles Lamb and
asks: "Is the world all grownup? Is child
hood dead?" She thinks the street arabs a
positive relief to the eye in their unconven
tionally. To a mother-woman it would be
"relief "to the eye" to have them washed,
combed, fed and taught honest methods of
earning clothes enough to cover them; and
higher aims than playing in mud or turn
ing somersaults regardless, after the man
ner depicted in Miss Tennant's pictures.
All very artistic on canvas, but painfully
realistic in the gutter.
In regard to overdressing children I think
mothers were never more undeserving of
this accusation
than t tins
time, we have
in the present
season's styles
for little people
a combination of
simplicity and
picturetqueness
charming in the
extreme. If
Charles Lamb
could see the
present day
14
it-sir
styles, be mignt
think tbe'clothes
had grown up,
so old do they
look. The long
skirts, long
sleeves and short
-W
waists if the Kate
If
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P&Qi
5&wraz-Ef
Ml
Caw
III
drnma
Greenaway school continue, the popular
mode for toddlers thiB side of the water,
though I believe there is an effort being
made to create a revolt! and introduce the
extremelv long waist, short skirt and short
sleeves of the French and English school;
such as Miss Tennant is no doubt accus
tomed to see and which, style certainly does
make a child look like a puppet or a ballet
A p'retty style for waist is composed of
pleated pieces, surplice fashion, back and
front, between which are arranged facings
of embroiderv; the plain coat sleeves are sur
mounted by decorative section-; and a wide
belt in upright pleats is worn across the
front, being sewed in at the side seams.
This half belt is a mere whim of fashion,
since dresses made after this mode are never
so prettv nor complete as when worn with a
wide sash.
OinEK PBETTT DESIGNS.
Other quaintly effective ways for these
little toilets are: A low blouse over a
guimpe of Swiss embroidery, with shoulder
straps and sash; or a full waist,- pointed
back and front, with leg-of-mutton Bleeves
and shirt with simple four-inch hem, decor
ated with fancy stitching; or, a high, round
waist, shirred at the neck, with fullness
held at the waist by a large buckle, or a
blouse of surah or India silk with jacket
front.
Jackets for little people of cither sex are
extremely popular, and upon their cut and
decoration depend much of the picturesque
ness of the costume. In the jacket and hat
lie the distinction of the whole toilet. Hats
vie with gowns in eccentricities the present
season, and one has no trouble to find their
preference, or one in keeping with the
character of the suit
One of the queerest freaks of fashion, too,
is putting blacK gowns upon children. Hot
mean mourning that being an English ab
surdity not as vet adopted by sensible Amer
icans but gaily decorated black dresses,
jackets and hats. For instance, a black
silk dress, long plain skirt, plain waist,
with yellow silk vest piece, long full
sleeves. Over this a short-sleeved black
velvet jacket or ornamented with gold
braid; large black hat, almost top heavy
with its weight of black and yellow tips.
Could that be excelled in Gipseydom, even
for picturesque effect?
SUITS FOE THE BOYS.
For our "Little Men" the Lord Fauntle
roy still obtains though its popularity is
divided with the "fisherman." lhis calls
for knickerbockers of blue seme, blue serge
shirt, blue and white striped vest, with blue
and white sash and tasseled cap. Another
novel suit is called the gardener. The
breeches are wide knickerbockers gathered
into bands below the knees; a gardener's
jacket is worn over white chemisette of
woollen material, with deep pleated frills for
trim wings.
Sailor suits are more popular than ever,
but the attempt to make them with long
trowsers, wide at the bottom, is not likely
to meet with general favor. So clad, the
youthful wearers look like droll little men
and the effect is more amusing than pleas
ing. It is an undeniable pleasure to dress
these little people before they have devel
oped original ideas in regard to their ap
parel, and in the excess of our pride and
joy there is danger of our permitting the
heart to get the betterot judgment and over
dress and over-praise them. We must
smother our admiration; spare our compli
ments or spoil our children they so early
and swiltly receive and absorb all impres
sion and turn them to account.
Therefore let us dress them only as a
matter of course and without a word that
shall give them to know the value of their
clothes, or that they are gotten up to out
shine a playmate, and with as few remarks
in regard to pretty hair, glorious eyes or
perfect complexions as possible. Let them
not learn lrom any unfoolishness on our
part the picturesqueness of a hat, or the
value of a certain color in connection with
the complexion, or the value of a new
gown, if we would avoid making of them
"affected, vain, deceitful little prigs."
Meg.
PRETTY HATS AND BONNETS.
Some of tbe Zjnteic Drslcna for Wear on
Land and Sea The Importance of an
Experienced Jndce in tbe Get-TJp of
aiillinerr Harmony n Neccaaity.
rWlUTTEN FOB TBI DISPATCH. 1
HE transparent
idea in hats and
bonnets is inten
sified, and the
"loves of bon
nets" are so small
and dainty that
they may be en
tirely covered
with the price.
A bunch of flow
ers, a wish of
lace and a little
velvet or ribbon
placed in the
hands of a skill
ful modiste, and
?the work, when
! turned out is
wonderfully start
ling. A word of
advice to my lady readers, patronize only
the best millinery artists, tell them with
what dresses and upon what occasions you
intend to wear the hat, give them two or
three days in which to do the work, and I
promise you that you will be both pleased
and delighted with it. Thus Ton will have
an individual style of your own, and the
milliner will have greater scope to model
and fashion the many pretty fancies and
designs.
Hats intended for ocean travel and yacht
ing excursions should be low-crowned straws
with no brim at the back and just enough
in the front to protect tbe eyes from the
rays of the sun, and it will be well to have
them secured to tbe head with narrow vel
vet ties, else the high winds will tear them
off and send them skimming over the .blue
sea. lie careful to provide yourself with a
light woolen hood or fascinator of a color
that will not be affected by the salty spray,
and bear in mind that stylish bows of rib
bon are the most appropriate and durable
trimmings for these bats.
A HAT FOB THE RACES.
Birds flew into popularity with the ad
vent ot the sailors, and these .rough-and-ready
straws trimmed in silk fish net, a
iaunty bow at tbe side and the two birds
saucily perched on the crown produces a
hat that will be much worn at the races. A
pretty model of this variety is of cream
straw with a full puffing of the cream fish
net around the crown and resting on the
brim and a bow of wide cream ribbon at tbe
side. In front and at the opposite side of
the bow are two canary birds as if about to
take their flight.
Baby ribbon is again to th'e front and is
Darticularly well adapted for the littlo
misses hats. Many bands of thee' zephyr-.
lice stripes are jasieneu uiouuu me iruwn
vmftp
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,..'4. .j . , , .re,, . . --. . .Trtw.ifc ."s .., .Hai r
THE
and tied into small bows or looped into a
rosette, while large bows of the same are
placed on tbe upper and the underneath
side of the brim and several strands are used
for the ties. A languidly drooping brimmed
cream leghorn is trimmed in Azalee pink
and cream baby ribbon with bands around
the crown and large pom-poms ot the pink
and cream ribbon attached to rubber stems
that bear a strong resemblance to huge
chrysanthemums.
THIS TOE TRAVELING.
A traveling hat designed for a blonde is a
"collapsable" which is made on the head of
the wearer and is therefore perfect fitting.
The frame is of four old rose silk covered
wires, which are sewed together at the back
and flare in the front. These may be ad
justed to any height desired and then sewn
to the wire that runs across the top. A
large ten-loop bow of No. 60 black gros
grain ribbon with two long fringed ends
that fall on the bangs, completely covers the
top of the bat and protects the hair from
dust. A narrow edging of jet finishes the
hat at the bottom and a Knot of the ribbon
is tied over the wires in front and gives the
pointed effect so much admired.
A strikingly handsome toque to be worn
by a brunette with an imported costume of
Azalee pink Lansdown embroidered in tan,
white and vicux rose silk has the crown
Illustration aYo. J.
of gold tricotine over which.is a heavy em
broidered gold filigree crown, with a gold
and straw pendant effect overhanging the
edge, and the tri-color trimming of tan,
white and vieux rose is knotted in front and
ingeniously draped at the back. This har
moniously blends with dark hair and dark
eyes.
TORN BY A BEAUTY.
The chapeaux shown in illustration No. I
was designed for and worn by a magnifi
cently formed demi-blonde whose dignified
carriage and striking beauty is greatly en
hanced by the combination of black, gold
and jet, which is so much favored in the
Spanish styles. The shape is a bandeaux of
the Marie Stuart point, a revival of a fancy
Illustration No. 1.
of 300 vears ago. The bandeaux is covered
with black velvet, and is edged with gold
and jet pendants. The crown is composed
simply of a large gold butterfly,! and the
heavy gold rope that starts from the back is
knotted and rests on the bandeaux, while
just back of this nestles a small bow from
which start the ties of black velvet ribbon.
The evenly coiled coiffure of beautiful light
brown hair is plainly visible, and the whole
effect is wonderfully Frency.
The creation shown in illustration No. 2
is of pink flowers and jet with an open
crown, and the style of trimming is greatly
admired in London at the present time.
The frame is exceedingly small and it, fin
ished at the top with a jet coronet. The
garniture at the bottom is composed of pink
wild roses, and the clusterof pink forget-me-nots
at the front stand away from the hat
and rest on the dark bangs of a decided
brunette.
FOB LIGHT BK0V7K HAIR.
In illustration No. 3, silver and black
are combined and harmoniously blend with
the light brown hair and fresh clear com
plexion of a young lady of most excellent
taste, for whom it was especially designed.
The rope of black velvet at the bottom is
Illustration No.
arranged in four loops through which the
silver rope is linked, and the loops at the
back are of black velvet and silver rope.
The drop fringe of silver beads is sewed to
the top wire of the small frame, which is
covered with silver tricotine, and the ties are
of narrow black ribbon.
A handsome blonde with dark brown
eyes is tbe wearer of the all-gold toqne
shown in the illustration at the beginning
of thiS article. Its subdued effect is greatlv
heightened by the addition of three saucy
faced purple pansies, in the midst of which
lies the head of a snake of gold, bix feet in
length, which is coiled and twisted over the
wires and through the gold-crocheted
crown. The frame is merely two gold wires
fitting the head over which the crown is
draped. The arrangement of the hair shows
to good advantage, and this hat, worn with
ornaments in the hair, is admirably adapted
for the optra. ObaSeaney,
Parisian Man Milliner.
4i
t.
??& ,!i.t irJstSsFiiS
HTTSBUEG- DISPATCH,
PIEANP SODA WATER.
Both Awlrily Bad When They're Bad
bn. Good When They're Good.
HEALTH AT THE SUMMER RESORTS.
Simple Ways to Fix Up the Blood
Complexion in Hot Weather.
and
HINTS POE TUB CAEE OF THE TEETH
irarra von tee dispatch. 1
People are leaving city homes for cooler
resorts, and the momentous questions of
stitohery and dress being over, turn what
attention they have to spare to the health of
the. bodies under their gowns. Considering
how long ago it was said, "Is not the life
more than meat and the body than rai
ment?" and who it was that said it, ideas on
the point should be far better defined than
they are.
Families go away from town languid and
thin, pale and blue lipped, to return pasty
faced from tbe mountains and seaside;
freckled and burnt, not with the clear, tan
like a bronze, which is beautilul in its way,
as the pink and white of an English girl,
but that coarse, fiery hue like crisped flesh
which is too like erysipelas to be desirable
or becoming. What good must people get
from the summer vacation is from air and
change of scene. The food in general is
most unfit for hot weather, the drainage is
simply dreadful and the water worse. If
anyone wants to get rid of an enemy with
out suspicion the best way wonld be to in
vite him to a summer sojourn at a boarding
house and feed him assidiously on clam
fritters and fried clams, hot breakfast cakes
and underdone oatmeal for breakfast, fat
mutton and string beans, spinach and early
cabbage dripping with fat, and suet pud
dings in August, and sure-to-kill pastry of
the consistence of tripe.
PASTE? AS A MEANS OP DEATH.
Modern pastry was a vehicle of death un
known in the time of the Medici, or they
would never have risked their throats by
sending white arsenic in confectionery or
putting chopped horsehair in an enemy's
victuals. That compound of lard dripping
and white flour which has just escaped
baking in an underheat produces morbid
effects in the system which exactly follow
the symptoms of slow poison. I do not
wish to speak disrespectfully of good pastry,
which is one of the best-made dishes in the
world; but pastry is like religion, it must be
tbe right sort or it is the worst diabolism.
If tombstones told truth they would say,
"Died of green currant pie and boiled din
ner in the midst of his usefulness," or "She
died, deplored by her friends for a tart tem
per caused by too much fondness for straw
berry short cake and Washington pie."
In choosing a resort for summer one does
not omit questions as to how far it is to
church or station, whether 6 o'clock dinner
is served or there are spring mattresses on
each couch matters of just interest and
comfort. Butaddsnch pertinent inquiries
as these: Bo you serve oatmeal or cracked
wheat lor breakfast? Can I have brown
bread and fruit three times a day? Have
you a water filter in good condition? How
far is the well or the water supply from the
cesspool and drains? And, last but not
least, have you a well ventilated earth
closet? All boarding houses and summer
resorts should be visited monthly by a sani
tary inspector with power to enforce neces
sary improvements for the health of inmates.
The Catskills and the north shore demand
supervision in this way just as much as
Mulberry street, Baxter street and South
Fifth avenue, those flowers of tho slums.
PERMANENT IMPROVEMENTS.
My dear madam, you can't depend on sun
and air to undo all the injury to health by
careless diet and bad drainage. You may
come back feeling fresher for a time; but the
effect is short, and the strength which should
carry you through the fatigues and inferior
conditions of city living three parts of the
year you have been cheated of by the cook
and the proprietor together.
Suppose you should for your own sake do
a little evangelizing for health, and take a
dollar's worth of cracked wheat lor instance
into the country with you to be served "at
your own table. En passant, madam, who
value your figure, it is less fattening.
For beverages, instead of the cheap soda
water, with its corrosive ingredients and
syrups made from spoiled fruit, iusist on
having pnre lemonade or fruit juices. Good
soda water, as offered by the best city drug
gists, or any man who understands his busi
ness, is not a bad thing for health or taste;
although caution ought to be used not to
pour down a large glass of iced drink when
one is warm, after the almost invariable
habit. The rule with everybody, men and
women alike, seems to be to see bow soon
they can swallow the soda and depart. The
result of turning a pint of cold, acid water
into a heated stomach is to burden it with
too much liquid, reduce the temperature
with dangerous suddenness, and headache
or cramps are in the direct line after this.
DRINK TOUR SODA SLOWLY.
Good soda should be sipped; quickly
drinking off the effervescence, which is mere
foam, an interval ot a minute or two should
be allowed before the last half ot the glass
is taken. Clerks should know this and give
customers time, without warning by looks
or actions that they are expected to leave in
the shortest possible order after bolting their
soda and paying for it. A glass of soda so
taken is a refreshing stimulus, better than
food in a very hot noon, but tossed off as most
people take it is a recipe lor cramps and in
digestion. If it is poor soda, tasting of
metal with tbe silver worn off, or standing
in silver too long, flavored with syrups
made lrom oranges or lemons whose musty
taste Is plain to all refined palates, the less
one takes the better for li"e and health.
Girls who serve the cheap soda fountains at
fancy stores well know this from experience,
and the old hands rarely touch soda them
selves. The girls behind the counters who
depend on soda to keep up their strength
through the close days injure their digestion
by it, and'perhaps owe more of their sudden
indispositions to it than they imagine.
By all means'take a quarter pound of bak
ing soda with your medicines and use
for any acidity of the stomach one-fourth of
a teaspoonful 'in halt a glass of water; hot
water it there is pain and uneasiness. Most
summer troubles of health begin with fer
mentation, which is active in hot weather,
and anti-acids are indispensable.
USES OF BAKING SODA.
Try powdered charcoal or magnesia, lime
water or soda till you find which Euits best,
but have the latter ready, for a cup of hot
soda water taken m time will often prevent
the worst summer attacks ol nausea and
cramps. It may be your lot, as it has been
mine more tban once, to want soda for some
victim iu distress, only to find that neither
house nor shop could produce a pinch of
baking soda, obsolete since the advent of
baking powder. Keep down the acid ten
dency and you prevent pimples, redness and
rawness of the lace, fishv eyes and unpleas
ant odor ol the perspiration, all derived more
or less from acids in the blood. With cool,
healthy blood the heat is felt less, there is
less tendency to freckles and sunburn.
I will merely remind you, as readers need
to be reminded each year, tnat a teaspoon
lul of powdered charcoal in water taken the
first thing in tbe morning is a great purifier
of the blood, and prevents morbid, c'noteraic
conditions. Most people find themselves
better in very warm weather tor taking this
dose after each meal, ir plenty of fresh
fruit and brown bread cannot be counted on
a seidlitz powder every other morning,
Carlsbad salts, Congress waer or Vichy or
some laxative known to suit the system
should be taken also.
It may be undesirable to depend on medi
cine, but in snmnier heats the Ireest action
Of all the functions is indispensable. Cas
cara sangrada, tbe South American bark, is
a. centle. efficient lexative to keen the akin
'sblt'a'BiuVclear. "Different preparationVare j
-v" x . 1, Xftfr,.. h$Ljru?
STJNTAY, JUNE 29,,
sold by druggists, who will give the proper
dose.
"WHITE GRAPE JUICE.
If there is a disposition to cold sores and
breakings out on the face avoid all forms of
ham, salt beef, corned or dried,
cheese or salt fish, and eat water
cress at each meal for three days.
For those who are languid in mind and
body nothing is better than the new Cali
fornia grape juice lrom white muscatel
grapes, which is commonly sold for the first
time this season. It looks like a delicate,
lieht amber wine, but is pure juice of
grapes untermented, and keeps surprisingly
in weather when the red grape juice ferments
rapidly without ice. It is a lighter tonio
than the red juice, and admirable for a sum
mer beverage or medicine. It is 25 cents a
pint at the groceries, and is the only thing
ol the sort fit to taste I have found among
many brands of grape juice.
The trouble with most of the un fermented
juice is that it is too sweet, being made en
tirely from rich Concord or other sugary
grapes. The proper combination for a
healthy, high flavored drink is from mixed
grapes, tbe most successful makers pressing
1,200 pounds of Concords to 500 of Norton's
seedling, which gives a delicious acid rich
ness, not fermenting on the stomach as the
sugary grapes do. If you want a dralt
to work on with body and brains, take a
glass of white grape juice with a teaspoon-
lul of acid phospbate, and oeiy ine summer
to wilt your energies. If you are increas
ing in flesh more than is nleasintr try the
hot water cure, drinking a small glass of
very hot water 15 minutes before brealcfast.
It is said to reduce obesity very safely,
THE CARE OP THE PACE.
For tan or coarseness of the pores, black
heads and oily skin in summer, wash the
face with hot borax water, one teaspoonful
of borax to a pint of water. For open pores
the hotter it can be applied the better. For
freckles, try the juice ot youni- green grapes
pounded in a bowl and rubbed on at night,
washing off in the morning with hot soda
water. To redden cheeks and lips have the
druggist prepare a lotion of ten drops oil of
mustard in three ounces of alcohol, not of
the strongest. Touch the skin with this
liquid on a fine sponge, let it smart a few
minutes and wash off gentlv with glycerine
and water. This application needs skill
and practice, bnt is capable of giving a
brilliant, lasting color.
Of my many correspondents, Pink writes
to know how to cure enlarged pores of the
face, blackheads and dark rings-round vthe
eyes. All three symptoms combined show
a system very much ont of order. There
must be immediate and thorough reform in
habits, coarse, laxative diet and medicines,
washing the face with borax water many
times a day, and when dry rubbing it
softly but firmly with a rubber handbrush.
This is a nice thing for the complexion in
all cases, whether to remove the shiny look
left by washing with soap and to give tbe
velvety finish (which it does better than
chamois skin) or to clear the enlarged pores
of secretions. Mild friction with it improves
the action of the skin and reduces the pores.
Blackheads indicate a constipated condi
tion, complete relief of which is the only
permanent cure for these unsightly spots.
The dark circles around the eyes will prob
ably disappear with the other symptoms.
ABOUT THE TEETH.
Mildred wants advice about the teeth. She
is 36, and her teeth were neglected when
young, are irregular, which she supposes
cannot be helped, and are decaying fast; but
she does not want to have artificial ones. Is
there anything that will arrest decay? Cer
tainly: Take powdered charcoal for the
stomach daily, as directed in this article,
brush the teeth with it till they become
white, which will take a week, perhaps,
then use prepared chalk and a good tootli
wasb for rinsing the teeth after meals. Fat
only bread of entire wheat flour, as that sup
plies the phosphates for bones and teeth, and
use cracked wheat as a vegetable freely. It
is as good as rice in every" way. There is a
candy for children, mixed with phosphates,
which is said to have a good effect on tbe
teeth, and is of benefit to older persons, as 1
can vouch.
Ella S. should- fill her rose jar with the
petals of wild roses gathered just as the dew
is off or just at sunset, dried in the shade
till they curl, and put in the jar with a bit
of cotton which has a drop of attar of rose
on it, shnt the jar tight for a fortnight and
only open it when the room is to be per
fumed. The usual mixture of spice and
cologne in pot-pourri smells like cooking
extract. Wild roses and a few richly scented
garden sorts are the only things that should
go in arose jar unless it is a few rose gera
nium leaves. Not a little skill goes to the
curing of flower petals. Shirley Dare.
EXPEU8IVE BUT HICE.
Tbo Good and Bad Points of Harp Plnylne
Among tho Lodiei.
New York San.
Harp playing is a very picturesque and
artistic accomplishment, which constantly
finds new votaries. A pretty woman with a
golden harp against ber shoulder, her slen
der and supple wrist outlined aeainst its
strings, is so suggestive of cherubim and
seraphim, of white wings, so enveloped in a
misty atmosphere of saintliness and general
loveliness that a man can't even think the
profane things that he says boldly about tbe
piano banger and violin scraper, even if no
two strings are tuned in the same key.
But harp playing is one of the most ex
pensive luxuries a woman can indulge.
The lone-suffering pianoforte is as patient
as a two-humped camel, and bears uncom
plainingly the practice abuse heaped upon
it, but a harp wears out easily, the whole
mechanism going to pieces sometimes all at
once, like the time-honored '"one-horse
shay." Tbe little Grecian, the cheapest of
the harps, costs $aUU; tbe semigrand, the
most popular variety, is usually $750; and
the "grand" is'sold as high as 51,200.
In addition it is very expensive to keep
them in condition, their trim being affected
by every change in the weather and having
to be renewed at least every second year.
HOVELTIES IN JEWEISY.
The
Detenu Ilnvo Been Following
the
Flowers In Tbelr Seasons.
New York San. "
The fashion of employing the flowers of
the season in the decoratiou of bonnets, or
the construction of the corsage bouquet, has
spread to tne wearing of their facsimiles in
jewels as well. With the early spring days
came the violets in enamel, with crystallized
dew drops ol sparkling diamonds on their
petals. A little later tbe jonquils were re
produced in diamonds, with just a row of
emeralds carrying out their red markings in
the center. Then the pearl lilies ol tbe
valley, drooping from diamond sprays, and
now the roses, with crumpled curling petals
in tinted enamel, and tbe flashing diamond
orchids set on slender swaying golden stems.
Very quaint and cunningly devised is the
kitten brooch, with two mischievous bits of
flashing diamonds, with emerald eyes alert
and rampant waiting to pounce on the pearl
ball between them, just lightly set on a bar
of gold on which they also poise themselves.
A. HTJSTLEB AT EIGHTT.
The Remarknblo Performances of n Good
Old Lady of Dlnlne.
A remarkable woman is Mrs. Mary Wing,
wife of Thomas Wing, of Fayette. Me. She
is 80 years ot age, and during the past year
has done the cooking, washing, ironing,
sewing, knitting, etc., lor a iamily of four.
Last fall she cleaned her house throughout,
and, in addition to all her other work, has
made since last October 300 pounds ot but
ter. She is able to ride out 10 or 12 miles
in a day, appears as jovial and happy as
any young person, and is in the best of
health.
Two People lo Bcwnro Of.
Beware of the man who tells you of his
wife's faults. Beware of the woman who an
nounces to you that life is without flavor,
and that if she had only met yon betore she
did John, . welK-jthenofccourse,- itwould
have been auwrenc. j
.':
f i. j'MMMn mam tn :n
1890,
CLARA BELLE'S CHAT.
Amnsing and Exasperating Things
Women Do When Traveling,
STAGE CAREER .OP A BUTTERFLY.
Pale-Faced Beauty Whose Life
Kalned by Her Own Portrait.
Was
GIKL3 TIP HATS TO EACH 0IHEK SOW
rCOBBXSrOXDSXCX 07 TITS DISPATCH. 1
NEW Yobk, June 28.
T this season my fash
innable sex is on tour.
When the average
women is traveling
without male escort
she is the most trying
and helpless of mor
tals. Not only does
she fail to preserve
herself from actual
bodily danger, but she
likewise contrives to
constitute herself a
tolerable source of
uixiety to onlookers,
is well as a moss un
mitigated nuisance to
everyone whom she
can possibly assail
With questions which
might so easily be avoided if she would but
use her eyes and exercise a little common
sense. But she never appears able to think
for herself on these occasions, or, if she
does, she invariably thinks wrongly, and
goes still farther astray.
In crossing a road women either display
an alarming recklessness that paralyzes on
lookers with terror for their safety, and
goads the helrfess drivers of vehicles to the
use of impolite language, or they indulge,
no less to the peril of their lives, in that ab
surd and purely feminine habit of coing
The Portrait Wat a Sensation.
halfway over a roadway and then attempt
ing to run back into the stream ot vehicles
behind them. Furthermore, they have a
maddening habit of crossing in gangs, e"ach
pulling the other a separate way, and
waving umbrellas on high, whilst they will
stand hesitatingly on the curb, whilst the
traffic is perfectly clear until half a dozen
wagons are bearing down upon the spot
they wish to cross, and then choose that mo
ment to make a futile dive to tbe other side.
AVTFVL 01T THE RAILS.
But, trying as they are as pedestrians,
women are more so as railway passengers,
for the average feminine mind appears to
be incapable of grappling with time tables
and train service generally. Barely do they
ever understand how or when the trains
run, or that there is a medium between ar
riving at the station half an hour too soon
and five minutes too late. Neither does it
seem to occur to them that time tables are
provided lor the purpose ot supplying in
torniation to passengers. Women either
never believe in these or they never use
their understanding sufficiently to make
use of them, and they will worry every
body within hail for the very particulars
that are printed up before their eyes not a
yard away. They have an aggravating
way of asking the same question of half a
dozen officials.
The fact ot a man being employed as an
official on one line of railway invests him
in feminine eyes with all the attributes of
an animated guide book, and great is the
indignation oi the female traveler if a mere
brakeman in New York is unable to give
More Mannish Than Ever.
her prompt and minute information regard
ing the trains in Colorado. Now, are men
ever guilty of these follies? Why should
not woman who is striving with might and
main to prove herself man's equal, if not his
superior make one supreme effort to bear
herself with more equanimity and exercise
a trifle more common sense when traveling,
that she may no longer deserve the now
well-founded imputation that she is a
nuisance as a pedestrian and an anxiety as
a passenger?
NOT ALIi GOLD THAT GT.ITTEE3.
A fine illustration of the deceptive qual
ity of mere outward appearance was given
in a Sixth avenue train. There were many
well-dressed women in tbe car, but one out
shone the others in daintiness of material,
color and fit. Her complexion, too, was ex
quisite, while its changing character, de
noting nature's own handiwork, made it all
the more beautiful to certain old-fashioned
eve. Then her benntv. unadorned bv
jewel or gewgaw of any kind, seemed most
adorned, ns tne poet avers, and tne eyes oi
all observers were directed toward her. But
she seemed unconscious of the attention she
was winning, and that air did not lessen her
attractiveness. She occasionally addressed
a remark to a plainly attired "girl by her
side, whom the lookers on had set down as
tbe perfect creature's maid.
By and by the talk became brisk, es
pecially on the part of thebeautiful mistress,
and it was pleasicg to see the roses in ber
round cheeks flush and pale with her vary
ing emotions. But alas! during the short
wait at a station, her voice rose with the tide
or feeling and cast this delicious verbal
jetsam overboard beyond recall: "I won't
hev no more ter do with her. She jest
jawed me last night till I got madder'n a
kite, n went inter ner slam Dang, n 111 do
it agin ef she don't let me alone, so there!"
Oh, wh;t a fall in esteem was that, my
countrywomen!
A fiTOBV OF THE 3TAQE.
Here is an incident out of stage life,vahd
C . i " . j- 'JIA' -
fx--. imv--KU;
AIM
"lk tL k"WMrm iWh
llilll fill
toU
it is bitter realism without any great
amount of romance. Bicbard Mansfield is
the young actor whom you may have seen
as the , tragio Richard III., or as the
horribly grotesque Mr. Hyde, for he lost
100,000 of his Boston backer's money in
exploiting himself as the hunchback mon
arch, and made considerable profit by a
more popular impersonation of the other
physical monstrosity. In his own individ
uality he is a good-looking fellow, ex
tremely intelligent, and, beyond all things,
confident.
Now for the other member of the couple
requisite for any sentimental story worth
telling. Beatrice Cameron is a young
woman of remarkable physical loveliness.
She grew up in Troy, 2s. Y., her family
name being liegeman, and her father, a
Shysician well known.there. She visited in
Tew York and figured in the same set which
contained Mrs. James Brown Potter in the
time when that celebrated lady was our lead
ing amateur actress. A performance for a
charity was ready to be given, and within
several days of the occasion Mrs. Potter fell
Ul. It was at first proposed to postpone the
affair. Then Miss Cameron offered her serv
ices, and J her beauty and brightness in
duced the manager to accept them. So she
made her debut on the amateur stage and it
was a measurable success. Still desirons of
following the example of Mrs. Potter, she
determined later to go on the professional
stage. Her family opposed the project vig
orously, and her husband for she had in
the meantime become a bride refused his
consent
SHE'LL EETXJEIT TO HER FRIENDS.
But she would not give up her ambition,
although it involved the loss of husband
and family both. Beatrice hired herself
out to Mansfield, and played, with much
sweetness and delicacy, the heroine in sever
al of his plays. They fell in love with each
other( and would have married, only that
tne gin was unable to get legally tree from
her husband. So the pair, although wed
ded in mimicry before the audience nearly
every evening, were unable to clear the way
to real matrimony. Lately another cloud
lowered suddenly upon them. Beatrice in
herited consumption, and last winter the
disease developed itself in her. Her last
appearance in pnblic was as the whimsical
heroine of Ibsen's "A Doll's House." Im
mediately after that she went to Europe, in
the hope that a few months in Southern
France might restore her to health. But
Mansfield has now received the news that
her recovery is quite impossible, and that
her demise is certain to come speedily. She
is about to return to America to die among
friends.
Don't have your wife's portrait painted ;
especially, not by a famous artist. That is
my advice to you, Ot course, you may do
as you choose. Anyway, Dr. Molair, a
fashionable Thirty-fourth street dentist, is
sorrv he did. About four years ago tbe doctor
married a girl of South Norwalk, Conn.
Up there in the countrv they thought her
too pale to be pretty, although they admit
ted that her eyes were large and soulful.
At an evening reception in the Bohemian
world or art and literature the bride at
tracted the attention of a young artist who
had just finished his studies in Paris.
HER PICTURE A SEN3ATIOX.
He offered to paint her portrait for noth
ing, provided the doctor would allow it to
be exhibited at the Academy of Design.
"I've been looking for "such a face ever
since I returned to America," said the
artist. "I promise you it will be tbe most
looked-at picture in the exhibition."
In due time the portrait was completed.
It was dreadfully pale, and set against a
gray background. The common herd of
mortals looked and laughed, but the cog
noscenti went into ecstacies. "Pale
luncheons" were given, and' then the whole
party adjourned to the academy to stare at
the "pale lady." It wasn't a success; it was
a sensation. At any honr of the day or
evening you were sute to find a crowd in
front of this remarkable portrait. The pale
Yankee girl suddenly became one of the best
known women in New York. She was in
vited, feted, complimented, and. while her
husband was drilling out the cavities of
teeth, she was making breaches in hearts.
Dr. Molair was an industrious man; bis
shoulders had grown round in digging and
boring and filing, but he found it expensive
to have a pale wife very expensive, too ex
pensive. He remonstrated mildly. The
pale Yankee girl listened, but her thoughts
were up town at a "pale luncheon" to be
given in her honor. Tbe doctor kept
steadily at work, and he did good work, too,
and bis income could have been quite suf
ficient for a man whose wife wasn't so pile;
but as it was Well, among the legal
decisions this week there is one in these
words: "M. against M.; decree signed."
The pale Yankee girl, tbey say, is in Paris,
but it is more than likely she'll be back
with the old folks in South Norwalk ere
many years more.
MORE LIKE MEK THAX EVER.
The straw bat, which for some unknown
reason is called tbe sailor hat, is this year
one of tbe funniest objects in the world. "I
saw it in its most perlect form on the head
of a girl who is noted for being the most
correctlv if not the best dressed young
woman in town. She was off to Tuxedo and
was going to the train with some of the men
of her family. As she tripped down the
steps of her house my eye was naturally
caught by the black silk stockings that
gleamed over a pair of russet shoes, the
fluctuant skirt of striped serge, the starched
shirt with its gold studs and standing
collar, and the blue jacket thrown open in
the careless masculine way.
What most attracted me, however, was
the last thing in hats that perched on her
smooth black hair. It was a straw with a
crown as flat as a soup plate and a brim
fully four inches wide. It was not tipped
forward or back, but was worn in precisely
the angle that would be secured by a man.
Then two jolly, pretty girls, with hats ex
actly like it dashed by. To my utter aston
ishment the girls, upon recognizing each
other, lifted their hats in the way that gen
tlemen do on meeting lady acquaintances.
They laughed lightly as they did this, as
though tbe idea n as a new one.
A laborer who was passing stopped and
gazed nt the girl in the extraordinary hat
and said to whoever might be listening that
"the little gyurl have her brother's hat on
her, I shnppaws."
A bright boy, who was coming briskly
down tbe steps, and who evidently heard
this remark, looked round at the Irishman
and said: "Oh, no she hasn't. You don't
suppose I'd wear a thing like that, doyou?"
Clara Belle.
PEETTY STBYOHHINE EATEBS.
Tho Tnnocenl-Tjooklnc Silver Bonbonnlere
Often Coatalna Poison Nowadays.
New York San.
The pretty, innocent little silver trink
ets ladies carry so invariably and uni
versally to the theater or concert, and even
to church, are filled with something besides
the perlumed French bonbons and sweets
they are designed for. Tiny harmless-looking
gray lozenges are hidden away among
the candies in the honbonniere, which con
tain the tiniest bit of strychnine, about one
thirtieth of agrain. Tbey aren'tpleasant to
the taste, but just what the gin cocktail
or sip of absinthe is to a man the strychnine
lozenge is to a woman. It is a tonic, a seda
tive;'a bracer, an exbilarator all in one.
Three a day is the allowance, but if my
lady irr very tired, if the sermon is unusu
ally dull, ir the escort to the play proves to
be a bore, if she wants her eyes to shine for
someone whose admiration is deirtoher,
the gleaming bonbonniere is opened more
than the regulation number ot times. So
accustomed do the sweet creatures become
to the nauseating bitterness of the drui that
they swallow it as smilingly as a baby does
a sugar plum.
Foreot VTIiat Be Warn CrjluB Far.
Birmingham Tost.
A little boy sat on the floor crying. After
a while he stopped and seemed buried in
thooght. Looking up suddenly, he said:
"Mamma, what was I crying about?"
"Because 1 wouldn't let you go out lo
play."
.'Ob, yes," and he set up another howl.
DOMESTIC TRAINING.
Tho Good That Has Been Accom
plished by the House Schools.
LOUDON GAYE BIRTH TO THE IDEA.
Work of Emily Huntington in the Field of
the Kitchen Garden.
SCENES AT AS ASNDAL EECEPTIOIf
rwarmir roa nut dispatch. :
Anyone who cares forsnch matters cannot
but have noticed with satisfaction the grow
ing interest which is being taken in the sub
ject of training schools. It is not so Ion?
since the subject with us was a novel one,
assuredly so in this country bnt the objects
sought to be attained in these schools, and
the advantages resulting so obviously from
them, wherever they have been established,
have commended them so favorably to in
telligent people that it is not to be won
dered at that they have already in many
cities come to be regarded as permanent in
stitutions.
The first domestic training school in the
modern sense was established in the Ken
sington Muslum, West Ehndon, England,
some 16 or 17 years ago, under the auspices
of a certain benevolent societv. At that
time the high price of provision and the
low rates for labor, together with the im
providence noticed among the laboring class,
made their condition very deplorable. Tha
object of the association was to fit teachers
for the special pnrpose of going among the
people and of giving them, in turn, prac
tical lessons. The instruction was at first
attempted to be given by lectures, but
it was soon found that this method
was inadequate to meet the desired end.
Something more was necessary to make the
project successful. Hence tbe happy expedi
ent was devised of getting the material and
utensils necessary and of joining with tha
verbal instruction the practical application.
The school was henceforward successful be
yond all former anticipation. It was at
tended by all classes of people, was liberally
supported, and, in no long time, schools
were established in various parts of England
and great good was done.
PROOBESS IN AMERICA.
In the city of New York there' have been
established for 12 or 13 years past a number
of training schools sometimes called
kitchen garden or house schools. Much in
terest has been taken in them, and it is safe
to say the efforts put forth to make them
successful have not been in vain. Manv of
the churches support their own school, and
for the elevation of the children, within
certain limits, it is considered an adinnet
Lnotless important than the Sunday school.
ine lounuer oi xucnen garden is Jlis3
Emily Huntington, a lady eminently
adapted for leadership. She "conceived tha
idea that the homely art of housework could
be made interesting and attractive to ehil
dren by the use of appropriate songs and
games, much after the method by which in
struction is imparted in the kindergarten
system. This idea she put in execution, and
her school is the motber school of thesa
training schools, or all schools ot like sort.
Probably the scope of this system of in
struction can be better conveyed in tbo
words of the Kev. Dr. Bellows, who says.
Kin writing of Miss Huntington's plant
character has lately come into any woman's
head or any man's, than the idea that-girls,
poor or rich, could be taught in great
classes, and by the hundred, all the methods
of setting the family table, of serving tha
food, of cleaning knives and forks, of wash
ing dishes and' clothes, of sweeping rooms
and dusting closets and ceilings how to
handle knife and fork, broom and duster;
how and in which order to take hold of all
forms of household work? There is a best
way of doing these things, and only trained
and experienced housekeepers, by expen
sively trained servants, have hitherto been
able to practice it. Most domestics hava
proved incapable of learning it because
they began too late."
RICH aSD POOE ALIKE.
With us, there'ore, the chief end of thesa
schools is to furnish instruction to all classes
of children in the necessary arts of House
keeping, and further, but in a somewhat
different way, to train grown up girls to
housekeeping, or to fit them as skilled serv
ants. Both kinds of these schools were, at
their foundation, benovelent in character.
As to the Kitchen Garden schools, it was
the intention of the founder to bring to
gether, particularly, the children of tbo
poor who were willing to be thus instructed,
and although these schools still retain this
important characteristic, they have in
creased in tbe scope of their usefulness, and
are now patronized by all classes. In soma
of the most successful of them you may sea
tbe children ot the richest and of tbe poorest
working together with hearty enjoyment in
their "occupations," es it is called. Tha
beneficial results of these schools are obvi
ous, where they have been tried, and there
is the most conclusive and satisfactory evi
dence of substantial good traceable to them.
One of the most interesting and success
ful training schools was established soma
years since at "The Old Brewery Mission."
JETive Points. A teacher relates that among
the pupils was a bright little girl scarcely
5 years old. This child had listened at
tentively to the "Match Lesson," and ona
day. not long after, she found her mother
lighting a mtch (in her usual way) on tha
wall. The little one said to her, reprovingly,
and with an air of great importance:
"Mamma, you
"Are not to light it on the wall,
"Nor on the carpet let it fall."
This was a new lesson to tbe mother, who
was so delighted with the child's knowledge
that she lost no time in finding the teacher
to inform her of the fact.
LIKE A BOWER ET EDEK.
It was the writer's pleasure to visit, not
long sin:e, one of the most flourishing
Honse schools in New York city. It was
the annual reception day of this Mission
school, and the room was like unto a bower
in Eden. Flowers, the gilts of friends,
were everywhere, and seemed to shed their
sweetest fragrance for this occasion. Choice
books were piled high ready for distribution
to these pupils who were abont to acquit
themselves with so much credit. There
were 84 children present, and it was only by
their plain clothing that oae could tell
that they came from the homes of the poor.
A number of the children, some of them
very young, did the honors upon this oc
casion, and their manner of receiving and
retiring guests reflected much credit upon
themselves and the cultured ladies who
had so kindly trained them. The cleanli
ness of the children and the good repair of
their cloithine, without any exception, was
a subject of much comment among the vis
itors, especially when we had been told that
the majority of these children came from
most wretched homes.
During the year, the teacher said, not
one child had been reproved for untidiness,
nor had one button been missing from gar
menu or shoes. These rules for cleanliness
and the care of buttons were rigidly en
forced. The teachers in their weekly visits
io these children of unfortunate circum
stances provide all articles necessary to
keep tbeui clean and their clothing in
proper repair, and these little ones, in many
instances, have been real missionaries in
their own homes, and, in their earnest
pleadings, nave uplifted fathers and moth
ers sunk almost hopelessly in degradation.
Let the good work of establishing training
schools go on, for, as Mrs. Sigourncy, the
giited writer and notable housekeeper onco
said: "The strength of a nation (especially
of a republican nation) is in the intelligent
and well-ordered homes of the people." -
Ellice Sereka. u
t , No Rlvnl In tho Field.
There Is no remedy which can rival Hamburg
Fijjs for the cure of habitual constipation, indi
gestion, ana sicE-neaaacne. i neir action, u aa
nromnt and efficient aa their taste Is pleasant:
25 cents. Dose one Fig. At all Cruceit.js
MSCJC UroE VO,, XI. X. TJ3B. ,
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