,-
20
MIDSUMMER FASHIONS.
Blome Walota of Every Tarletr nod No
tarial Borrowing Bfen'a Fashlona
Hoop Pklrta Are Becoming Fopnlar
Again Hints for School Miaie.
twitrrmr ron thi DtsrATCH.1
To keep cool and clean is the prevailing
study from now until the end of August.
Such of human
ity as are fortun
ate will be found
the cast side of a
big bonlder on
theXewEngland
coast somewhere,
or facing the
Pacific rollers.
Life elsewhere is
mere endurance. '
The hair is
dressed high for
coolness, turnrd
straight up from
the nape of the
seek and coiled in a figure of eight on the
crown, or in a broad Bulgarian braid
pierced by huge filigree gold or silver pins.
Jet is too heavv for summer. Ths braid
or the twist dispense with the use of the
crimping iron, or care lest the damp take
the crimp out afterward. Beally the
straight hair with a little feathery finish on
the brow looks very pleasing, except lor
people with high foreheads, who must ad
here to the curling longs. The light frame
which fits on the chimney of a kerosene
YC
JV'w Style of Arranging Hair.
lamp does away with pocket stoves, which
oblige one to buy alcohol continually, or
else to heat irons by 'avor at the cook stove
in snmmer boarding houses where the land
lady is an angel unaware. The kind is not
too common. 'Wherefore this wire rest
which costs n quarter, and allows you to do
your hair wherever kerosene is burned will
be hailed a relief by vexed maidens under
summer disadvantages.
BLOUSES OF EVEEY SORT.
Now the sun enters the sign of the blouse
in the social zodiac and remains there.
Print and linen blouses for people who have
old-fashioned notions about sweet, clean
laundry work; washing silk blouses striped,
plaided, polka-dotted, that you wash round
the collar and cuffs with a rubber hand
brush, rinse and dry in the sun on the win
dow pane and press in a big book; white
silk and wool blouses which hesitate at
catching dust, and the lace at throat and
wrists takes the soil anyway, and that wash
and iron with any sort ot care like new;
pale pink, blue or maize blouses in veiling,
in thin crepe de chine, in silk muslin,
which looks prettier than anything when
freth and loses its freshness sooner than any
thing. Keally plain pint or blue zephyr or linen
lawn in the light colors are more uselul and
comfortable than anything else, and the
linen lawn, ironed carefully on the wrong
side, is fresh and clear as expensive silk
muslin. The silk blouses have the merit 01
being light and warm for cool seaside morn
iocs, but are also warm lor noon. The finely
tucked blouses which entail suli work to
make them give place to the silk and wool
blouse with the fullness just gathered a lit
tle two inches each side under tne collar and
in the belt, or for thin figures it is gathered
on the shoulders.
SOME OP THE FBETTIEK EFFECTS.
A few nice waists have inch pleats laid
each side and in the back, but the simpler
French gathered waists are prelerred by nice
dressmakers or artiitic blouses in pink or
cream Liberty silks or crepe wool. The
shirt sleeve or the bishop is the only thing
allowable in washing waists. Some of the
nice thin wool blouses have sleeves of fine
satiny surah or India silk the same color.
Summer Mantlet.
Toked blouses are fashionable, but not be
coming, and so are not considered in our
list cf styles. Very few figures look even
tolerably in waists gathered with a "tanding
frill above the yoke, at the fancy is, which
makes the wearers look sunken-chested.
Most of washing dresses are spoiled with
orer-trimming, or the trimming is too
obvious. A blue zephyr with white em
'broidery or lines of white braid lacks blend
ing; but take darker embroidery in self
color on a mixed ground, or half cover the
KM
infr'
white braid by wider blue a little deeper
than the shatie of the gown, and the result
meets lasting approval. Stylish cotton
gowns are a combination of plain and fig
ured material, which dispense with trim
ming. A favorite design is a gobelin blue
percale, with side panel and blouse front of
red cotton, with large rings or polka dots.
Bine gowns trimmed with red seem rather
the fancy, but are hot looking in any fabric.
Itedfern lately showed a brilliant yachting
dress of dark bine fine cloth, with side
panel, enffs and facings of deep military
red, edged with two rows of narrow gold
galoon. The whole effect was imposing as
uniform of a captain of a Cunarder, or offi
cer of artillery. Bnt on deck in a gray mist
one is thankful for brilliant color.
SUMMEB COESETS.
Corsets of silk bolting cloth, thin as veil
ing, but strong, are a novelty for summer,
and next to these are the fine pongee, thin
and firm, the whalebones cased in satin
stitched on the outside of the corset. These
are very light, but define the figure well,
tlinmrli hnrrllv as cool as thelaee or skeleton
corsets, with a band of coutille at the waist,
and straps ot silk or linen holding the bones
together. Summer corsets are cooler for
having a large curve cut out on the hips
where material is superfluous. The knitted
corsets for nursing and for Greek or Josephine
bodices are found very elastic and comfort
able, and wash easily. Fine pongee corsets
are $8 each, the bolting cloths are made to
order only, lace mesh corsets and the knitted
are 52.
Stout linen bands are made to compress
the hips of persons who have large figures,
and materially add to the firmness and dig
nity of the step. Silk and satin corsets are
not reeommended hygienically, as they heat
and injure the chest, especially in summer.
They should only be worn with thin even
ing dresses. Summer chemises are maae 01
nainsook, sacque shape with no sleeves but
a trimmed strap and the neck drawn up
with narrow ribbon, and small embroidered
frills.
THE HOOP SKIET AGAIN.
This is the style for use. the fancy "V
shapes in lace and fine needlework being
discarded through the warmest weather.
The slip bodice, jersey fitting, woven of
white cotton is an easy substitute for
chemise and corset in one, with scant while
skirt attached of thin stockinette. This is
recommended for tourists and campers out
who study to reduce wardrobe and washing.
The slip can be washed with cold water and
soap in a hand basin at night and dried by
morning, ready to put on. The hoop skirt
makes its appearance again, with welcome.
Spite of the ridicule visited upon it
years since, it has its good points, as
it is cool, keeps the skirts from clinging
about one's knees in summer.
Beally, the thin challies and India silks
look skimpy without it, unless one wears a
load of petticoats, which are a burden st
95 in the shade. The hoop is the old
skeleton arrangement without bustle, being
only belt and straps for half its length, and
is sold without cover. A cover and tusson
silk skirt with two flounces edged by tro
chou make all the under drapery necessary
for warm days.
THE STOCKINGS TO -(TEAK.
Lisle and fine cotton stockings replace
silk lor prudent wearers during the heated
term, as silk loses its luster when two or
three times worn, and can hardly be told
Ironi cotton. .Deep ecru balbriggans are
worn with walking boots and with tan shoes,
which tbey suit in color. Black cotton
stockings with white feet are worn with
boots, as they do not blacken the feet. New
A Graduating Dress.
hose are spliced at the ankles, where the
edge of the low shoe rubs most. A novel
idea is to cut off the toes and heels of worn
black stockings, hem the edges, and wear
them over very thij white lisle. The effect
with any shoe is that of a decorous black
stocking, but the injurious effects of the
dye on the skin are prevented. Handsome
embroidered silk hose do dun in this way
much longer than ordinary. The black silk
underwear is not favored for health or re
finement and is only worn by women who
make a display of personal charms, the first
point cven in undress. Black next the
skin, especially when perspiring, is any
thing but sanitary.
Jfew colors are cornflower blue, larkspur,
quite vivid shades, cowslip and daffodil
yellows, fuchsia red, holly and hop green,
very light and pretty. Peachblossom is
again favored. The vegetable colors, tomato
red in two shades, which gardeners recog
nize as "Acme" and "Livingston's Per
fection;" carrot red and yellow and red
cabbage shades are too hot looking for sum
mer. BLACK LACE SBESSE3.
Black lace dresses are made over watered
black silk, or bright colors; copper, daffodil,
gobelin or cactus green, with ribbons to
match the lining. 'The colored fishnet or
Bussian net over silk of the same shade is
newer and gayer. The last novelty is the
printed washing net, with a mesh like fine
old thread net and white medalions in lace
work, .with flowers stamped on the lace
around or between the ovals. Shot silk tea
gowns or evening dresses with lace fronts are
cool and elegant looking. Daffodil crape de
chine or dull silk are the fashionable tea
gowns. Masculine articles are appropriated for
feminine wear unscrupulously. The Henley
shirts are ridiculous copies of men's with
linen fronts, stifl collars and four-in-hand
ties. Ladies' vest? in black armure silk
pin-dotted with the color of the dress have
the drilling back and buckled strap, and
the last novelty is the ladies' lounging
jacket, a facsimile of the richly lined ones
affected by dudes. The model was mul
berry broadcloth with ashes ot rose lining in
gros royal e and frogs of thick silk braid on
each front. The price was only $40 to keep
it from becoming common. Men's dressing
gowns of quilted silk or brocade are meta
morphosed lcr feminine wear by ripping
the lower seams half way, and lacing them,
ftJTf
Mm mm
mum 1M
mmd A f tls
THE
to open above a surah skirt or slip. A
china silk night gown was turned to use,
by a clever owner, by adding a long, loose
lace front with primrose crepe frilling to
the waist, opening the back seam of the
skirt to show a full box-pleat of primrose,
and arranging a primrose scarf to pass from
the shoulder seam on each side around the
armhole and fall just back of the hips to
the hem with deep fringes.
THE GBADUATINO DBESS.
Anxious mothers and girls are planning
and sewing the hot days through on gradu
ating dresses, without which a young woman
of to-day would consider her five years'
course virtually ineffective. The illustration
shows two of the prettiest, because simplest,
of the new designs, equally suitable for
bridesmaids' dresses. The sheer washing
materials are preferred for their diaphanous
beauty and usefulness. "White organdy,
Quaker grenadine, sheerest of all woven cot
tons, or the soft India lawns are well used,
or the very thin white wool bareges and silk
muslins, where expense is not considered.
The gathered French waist is the best style
for girlish, incomplete figures, and the gath
ered skirt with white satin or moire ribbons
in two widths is much more graceful than
more elaborate styles, and may be worn at
any of the summer hops following.
The long dress is nice in sheer veiling, or
white wool muslins or batiste over a plain
white surah slip, and a very pretty trim
ming can be arranged of smilax, myrtle or
jasmine in straight," slender lines, two-thirds
the way up the seams and halfway between
them, the vines knotted with small white
flowers, new rosebuds, jasmine or white
myrtle buds and blossoms, not to destroy the
lightness of the decoration.
HOT 'WEATHEB HAIE DEESSINO.
For hair dressing, always a question with
young girls, the plain but refined style ol
the Viennese coiffure shown in the picture
The Selora Hat.
will recommend itself to fresh, full faces.
The jewelled bandeau may be replaced by a
narrow picot ribbon tied in a pert little bow
or two on the hair, or a thread of flowers, or
the narrow opeawork jet fillets, which any
girl can make for herself. The glossy hair,
kept in place by a touch of bandoline well
crushed in, reallv needs no other relief than
the feathery curls at the brow, and is the
only style of hair dressing that is not
hideous for summer. This thing of having
to crimp one's hair three to six times a day
in perspiring weather is too exclusive a
claim npon life, when women expect to live
onlv 50 or 60 seasons at most.
The dust cloak in black surah, Bilvery or
fawn '-gloria," thin and lustrious as a new
coinage, or very fine mohair in light tints, is
dressy enough to substitute for elaborate
toilets mornings and middays. Abroad
they are thrown over a morning dress with
out corsets, and the velvet or passementerie
girdle, trimmed collar and cuffs, make the
whole ornamental enough for general ac
ceptance, a sort of
CHABUINQ STEEET NEGLIGEE,
which the old-fashioned duster never was.
The Bolero bat, in lancy crinoline or mixed
Neapolitan and Tuscan straw, is one of the
newest and lightest of the midsummer hats.
The brim is wide enough to shade the face,
bnt not to flop in a breeze like the enormous
shade hats. The trimming is silk or ribbon
pompons, or bunches of large flowers in
similar effect, huge bluets or carnations,
guelder roses, or the new feather aigreetew
oi ciose-snorn quins.
I must speak of the latest invention to
give relief to women's souls and keep the
hems of their dresses nice. "When you go
away for the summer don't forget to "bny a
wire dress brush, like the wire hair brushes,
with a strap for a handle, which will take
the dust out of a cloth dress, brush the mud
off and lay the nap sooner than any imple
ment known. The long skirts are traps lor
dust and soil around the hems, but this
banay invention erases spots with less effort
than brushing one's hair. Further, it
smoothes serge gowns and lays the pleats of
tailor gowns in place almost as if they had
been pressed. Such a brush costs 60 cents
and is invaluable lor women's and child
ren's clothes, and the way it takes the mud
off boys' trousers is remarkable and refresh
ing. Shiblet Dabe.
LEES3 TOE THE UTILE OHES.
'The Brer Vigilant Faahlon Makera Have
Not Forgotten Them.
The little ones have no reason to complain
of neglected dress requirements. Dress
maktrs and needlewomen are alike vieing
with each other in providing them with
charming summer toilets. First we have
a pelerine mantle of gray pasha for the
changing seasons. The pelerine is loose
from the mantle, which is bordered with a
light grey embroidery like that forming the
pelerine yoke. The hat worn by our
young lady of 12 or 14 years of age, is
dark brown trimmed with one bine and one
red rosette. Little girls are provided with
an Eiffel-red (rust color) waterproof mantle
with broad white alapaca facings which
give it quite an especial character of its
own. When the umbrella matches the
mantle the small wearer is eqipped in the
newest fashion. New varieties of style are
also bronght to bear for the benefit of young
boys, though the English suit with cap to
match is always the leading principle. The
thoit, tight-fitting knickerbockers batton
injT below the knee, and ribbed or ringed
stockings are as comfortable as they are
convenient and useful wear.
n WOULD ALMOST FLOAT.
A Very Frcttr Ball Gown Reported From
Illerrlo Old England.
Fall Mall BadKtto
One of 'the prettiest ball gowns I have
seen this season it looked light enough to
float in the air was covered with white
gossamer stuff flowered in mauve; stripes of
narrow ribbon carried from the waist ended
in a bunch ol loops at the foot The dress
had full, wide sleeves, cut open at the top.
Another ball gown was of eau-de-nil
green silk veiled with embroidered lisse.
The edge of the skirt was finished with a
dainty frou-frou of lisse. A pair of large
butterfly wings made of velvet and silk set
off the back ot the skirt. - T
JVISBavlr9RRjKBBBBBBb
sy7JL'BHKM9B9K2rr99EK-$nSii!BTC
PITTSBURG DISPATCH, SUNDAY, JUNE 22,
BEAUTY BEWILDERED
In Her Mad Search for Recipes to En
hance Personal Charms.
ALL GREAT MINDS DOFT AGREE.
Oatmeal Hakes Faces Bosy, Sajs One,
Like Patty, Bays Another.
A SAD EXPERIENCE WITH A FAD
1WWTTEN VOB THS DISPATCH. I
Not so much what to do to be beautiful,
as what to do to look beautiful, is the ques
tion of all others that seems to be agitating
the mind of the feminine poblio at this time;
and as many varied and diverse prescrip
tions are given as there are so-called reme
dies for seasickness. To follow the advice
of these would-be physicians to the outer
woman would be to rush from one extreme
of folly to jthe other, and in some instances
one would be doing well to get off alive.
To make a review of the contradictory
advice given for the care of physical charms,
let us begin with what Solomon, in bis wis
dom, denominated woman's crowningglory,
the hair. To brush or not to brush is the
question. First we read: To insure a
luxuriant growth we must bestow at least
100 brushes each night, and brush vigor
ously and thoroughly through the day as
often as rearranging, and keep it up while
time and patience holds out. The patient
must sleep in a cap, too, if she would have
the silken tresses ot our grandmothers; wash
frequently if she would promote the growth
and render the hair soft and lustrous.
THEN THE OTHEB EXTBEME.
Of conrse, she makes up her mind at once
to do this and do it thoroughly, though
nothing else in life be accomplished, when
about this time she reads: "Never brush
your hair, nor comb with a fine comb, but
use the very coarsest comb available and ar
range as loosely as possible. Never sleep in
a cap, as that heats the head and causes the
hair to fall out. Too freqnent washing
weakens and fades the hair, destroys luster
and renders it altogether unmanageable. If
our foremothers bad observed these rules the
present generation would have better hair."
Bo much for treatment for the hair. For
the complexion, that corner stone of woman's
beauty, who can remember the diverse and
numerous gratis remedies for its imper
fections and the care of its perfections. To
insure the clear skin of the Scotch or the
near approach to it one must make oatmeal
the staple article ot diet; and thbearer she
can come to literally living upon it the
more nearly will she 'approach the Scotch
Eerfection of clearness, etc Just when she
as decided to live upon oatmeal porridge
or starve in the attempt, she hears from an
other especially authentic source the en
couraging remark: ''Keep up the porridge
diet if you want a putty-colored, pasty com
plexion." BULES FOR PLUMPNESS.
If one is thin to the verge of what Bessie
Bramble calls "scragginess," how gladly
she reads that a cup ot warm milk night and
morning, taken with regularity, and as
much as she can drink in the interim, will
certainly produce the coveted degree of
plumpness. That's easy. Yes, she will
take milk, fake it often and take much in
ternally, and bathe in it, and she leaves an
order for an extra supply of the lacteal
fluid to be left night and morning, and set
tles down to the first principle of diet, when
lot her evil genius again appears through
the columns of a newspaper, and she reads:
"Milk is ruinous to the complexion. It is
conducive to biliousness. Persist in the
use of it and you will g'row yellow as a
kite."
The last prop seems knocked from under
her, for, ot course, she has not only just this
moment awakened to the fact that nature
has dealt stingily with her; she has been
fiainfully conscious of her sallow, ill-favored
eanuess these many years and has spent
both time and money trying to remedy the
evil, bat she had not heard of the warm
milk before and it is so easv to take!
At this juncture she finds it easier to ac
cept the onward flow of a lean existence by
remembering that all women credited with
the most personal magnetism, from Cleo
patra and Helen of Troy down to the mag
netic Bernhardt, have been thin women;
and that this charm, this trick of manner,
of speech, or whatever it is, is the best of the
Creator's gifts to a woman. Its component
parts cannot be analyzed; nor can a pre
scription be given for it; but whatever else
it may be she can be sure it is largely gen
tle breeding, fine-grained courtesy and pure
womanliness; and that It is a charm beyond
any physical endowment that could be given,
and that these women are credited with the
lion's share of such bewitchment.
TVHAT IF SHE IS PAT?
But what if, with undue favor, nature has
given her two women's share of flesh and
blood? Welt, then, she is to walk, walk,
walk. "Walk early and walk late. Walk
off this "too, too solid flesh." Yes, and eat
less; and cat the very things we mot dislike
and leave all the luxnries of cream, butter,
salads and' pastries for the thin women.
Hard lines, but there is no other way lor it
if she would become petite. So with the
heroic determination to do and dare any
thing for the satis action of once again wear
ing a 21 inch corset she gets up with the
lark and begins to tramp off flesh; and
already she is catiug like a ple
beian when a halt is .called on
such cruel regimen after this fashion: "Let
fleshy people not imagine they can reduce
their size with satisfaction; the skin having
been stretched to the containing capacity
forced upon it by too abundant proportions,
rarely or never shrinks to its original
dimensions, and the result of reducing flesh
is an unenviable state of flabbiness."
Horror 1 Of the two evils, fat or flabby,
the former is certainly the less, and, with a
mind made up to endure what she cannot
cure, she bows to the inevitable and resumes
riding and eating, since there is nothing cer
tain by walking and fasting,
GETTING EID OP WBINKLE3.
But about wrinkles, poetically called "the
line tracery ol time." So written they
sound better than they look. It may be a
lady is clear-skinned enough to escape criti
cism; or she can bear with her complexion's
imperfections it she only could hit upon a
remedy to efface the hoot marks of time that
has ridden over her roush-shod. Theoretically
there is a remedy lor all evils. Here is an
olt repeated one for wrinkles: "Never bathe
the face in tepid or cold wjtei; hat in water
as hot as can be endured. Also steam the 4
face over boiling water; best done by hold
ing a steaming cloth close to the face. This
will shrink the skin, and the wrinkles are
caused by the wasting of the tissues under
the skin, leaving the latter loose too large
for the remaining flesh underneath."
Sounds reasonable, doesn't it? Impressed
with this philosophy she decides to cook the
wrinkles until done to death, when again
her endeavors are thrown into chaos by
reading: "What a jealous hatred that
woman must have of her sex to recommend
the steam face bath as a sure defeat for
wrinkles. A notice of the poor wash
woman's hands will prove the malicious
ness of such advice, and the effect of too
hot water upon the skin. My dear sisters,
take my advice and if you don't want to
look all off the same piece with your new
accordian skirt never bathe your face in
water heated above the tepid degree."
THE MUCH LAUDED BATH.
But ho! The fad of the day is the bath you
know and the kinds are almost literally
"too numerous to mention." However, the
latest bath is the very one everybody has
been looking for. "Under it the obese lose
flesh and the lean gain it." (A poor rule
that will not work both ways). "For toning
up the system there is nothing like it this
double bath, or electricity and massage com
bined; and there is nothing like it'lor beau
tifying.," In addition we are assured it will
steam out and rest out all the tired wrinkles
and lines abouteyes and mouth ;,put a spring
Id the''bottom of our'feet-tlrat will'niake
dancing, regardless of time or place, well
nigh irresistible; (dangerous bath, thatl)
and more important than all, it will make
the face "gloriously bright," and "several
shades whiter."
Think ol thatl While under the intoxi
cating effects of this bath the patient calls
upon public benefactors to erect fewer mon
uments and bestow public baths a la Boman.
After reading of this trip to Blissland via
bathtub the thought suggests itself that it
would be a good idea to have the necessity
of such bath called to the notice of Andrew
Carnegie. .But here comes honest Nell Nel
son's experience at the hands of the mistress
ot the bath at tlis Hoffman Honse, New
York. Up to the time of the electrical-massage
bath, all that is now claimed for it as
enjoyable, healthful and beautifying was
claimed for the wet pack. To the pack pop
ular actresses, societv women and profes
sional beauties in general owed much of
their attractiveness, and JNell, lice tne rest,
coveted these things and selected the pack
as a sure route.
NELL NELSON'S EXPERIENCE.
First the patient must consent to a light
diet: Graham rolls, prunes, lettuce and
hot water. This diet to rest the digestive
organs, and the sweating process to draw
out the waste material collected in the va
rious tissues that line the vital organs.
Nell Nelson was requested to fast for sev
eral meals' previous to the pack in order to
have the stomach perfectly rested. This
she claims she did and "went in as hollow
as a pipe stem," and the proverbial cat was
muscular compared to the general goneness
of her interior. But she was comforted by
being told she would be the color of a lily
when she came out. The color of said lily
was not specified, but after the first sight of
herself in the mirror she knew it was the
tiger-like variety that was meant.
She declares she lost 20 pounds of flesh
and the power of locomotion for 24 hours;
that she laid under a weight of clothes that
would have broken the shoulders of an
Atlas, and that every pore streamed like a
town pump. She tried hard to persuade
herself she was having fun but failed. The
mistress of the bath Kept cheering her on to
greater endursnee by the assurance that she
would be perlectly beautiful when the ordeal
was over. After enduring the parboiling
three hours, and just when shethought there
was nothing left of her but the last breath
she was permitted to view the remains which
she describes as closely resembling Camille
in the last scene. Then, too, she "looked
like a resurrection, and was mentally as
idiotic as the ushers in the Bible wedding."
Her "lips and eyelids were electric blue and
complexion a pale green with ecrue mott
lings." To regain lost flesh she went back
to her diet of "roast beef, boiled onions, rice
pudding and vegetable soup," and for the
temporary damage to her good looks I sup
pose she had the consolation of having one
less fad in the gamut of fooldom to run.
Meg.
BOUGH ON THE BABIES.
Treatment to Which They Are Subjected by
Fatuconlnn Doctors.
When a child in Patagonia is sick a mes
senger is dispatched for the doctor, And
never leaves him until he comes with him.
As soon as the doctor arrrives he looks at
the sick child, and then with much cere
mony rolls it up in a piece of skin. He
then orders a clay plaster, and by this time
the child has ceased crying, soothed by the
warmth of the skin, and so rendering still
more solid his reputation as a wise man.
Yellow clay is brought and made into a
thick cream with water, and the child is
painted from head to foot, causing him to
cry again. "The devil is still there," says
the doctor sagely, and undoes two mysteri
ous packages he carries; one contains rhea
sinews (ostrich) and the other a rattle made
of stones in a gourd decorated with feathers.
He then fingers the sinews, muttering
something for a few minutes, then he seizes
the rattle and shakes it violently, staring
very hard at the crying child. Then wraps
it in the skin again and it ceases crying.
Again it is painted, rattled at, and stared
at, and again it cries. This is done four
times, and then the cure is considered com
plete. The doctor leaves the child quiet,
enfolded in the warm skin, and goes his
way, having received two pipeluls of to
bacco as a lee.
Strange to say the child generally recov
ers, but if it does not, the doctor gets out of
the difficulty by declaring that the parents
did 'not keep the medicine skin tightly
around the child and so let the devil get
back again. This is the only treatment sick
children in Patagonia are ever known to
receive.
PEESIAK PLAYING CARDS.
The Jacka Are Falntrd bv Hand and Are
Preliy Expensive.
A Persian hand of cards is complete with
a set of four, all face cards. They are called
respectively the prince, the baby, the hunter
and the courtesan. These characters are
represented as on our cards with conven
tional figures; hut the Persian pictures may
vary considerably in design and are far
more exact to nature than the grotesque fig
ures on our cards; this is doubtless due to
the fact that Persian cards are painted by
hand on little tablets of papier mache2
inches long and ly( inches wide.
The design is executed in water colors,
sometimes on a gold ground, and protected
by a glossy coat ol thick varnish. The back
and edges are always black. Some of these
c.irds are very expensive, a pacfc costing as
high as $10 to $45, although, of course, such
expensive sets are for the wealthy. But
whether for rich or poor, Persian playing
cards are made by hand.
NOT SUCH A WICKED W0BD.
People Who Say They Don't Caro a Dam
Aren't Guilly of Mycnrlng.
"You, need not have looked severe be
cause I said that I didn't care a dam," said
a cruff old Senator in conversation with a
Washington Star reporter. "That is not
swearing. The expression has a very dif
ferent meaning Irom what is popularly sup
posed, and was originated by the Duke of
Wellington. A dam in India is the small
est piece of money known, and not to care
that much means simply that one is very in
different. That was all the phrase was in
tended to signify.
"The word 'damn,' from the Latin verb
meaning 'to condemn,' is a verv different
thing. Curiously enough, it seems almost
invarinbly to be the first word in our lan
guage acquired by foreigners."
BEAUTY AFTEB HIQHTTAT.T.
A Groat Deal of Loveliness Dno to Atten
tion to the Lighting.
Illustrated American.
The secret of preserving one's bloom after
nightfall lies in using wax or even paraf
fin e candles as much as possible, and so dis
tributing their soft glow that it will all
shine from about a level with the face.
"How exceedingly pretty the girls al
ways look at your house," remarked a
casual observer, never guessing that one
half the credit was due their hostess, who
enhanced instead of ruthlessly dissipating
Her guests' loveliness by the manipulation
of illumination.
Lost.
rwarrmi vob the dispatch.
My lady's eyes are flowing
With tears like opals showing
Against her fevered check;
In midnight glooms that pale her,
Disheveled love-locks veil her
Llko storm clouds wild and bleak.
Would it were gold's lost shining.
Or love's, that sets her plnins
Like Carthage's old queen!
Oh, would she longed tax honor
To shed its Joys upon her
The very stars Td gleanl
But judge me without blaming
inert I am yet flaming
Like yon great fireplace log.
What hope hace 1 of finding
In all this city's winding
A three days' lost nnr- ..i
' Eva Wildbb McGtAsaoir. J
lllifflf "ttft lllfili i .WlallTf III! Ifl-Jl rill IWI H
1890.
NICE PLACE TO LOAF.
A
Fretty Little Itetreat for Tired
Women to Enjoy at Borne.
TWO SINGLE BEDS FOR A DOUBLE.
Odds and Ends Thai Help in Making an In
terior Beautiful.
DOJiTS THAT IT IS WELL TO OBSBIlTfi
rwuiiTiui yos Tna EisriTCH.1
Half the miserable, tired-out women in
the world would feel better, look better and
be in better temper if they only had some
retreat in their house where they could oc
casionally lay down and recuperate. The
trouble is that when one feels exhausted and
in need of an hour's sweet restorative, one
has no place to go to. You don't wish to
disturb the bed and its prim dressiness, and
the
s average lounge or sofa is far from rest
, so the needed eat nap isn't taken.more's.
fill,
the pity.
The most popular room I have in my
house is one that has a box plaftorm on the
floor ol the bay window alcove. It Is raised
about a foot from the ground, covered by a
mattress, upholstered in plain denim that
has been washed to get the stiffness out ot it,
and with five or six pillows and a few rugs,
and shelves placed within convenient reach
to hold coffee pot, novels or pipes, you have
surroundings to complete the charm of a
most delightful loafing spot and cheaply
constructed, too. One spends a good third
of one's life reclining, so the subject is well
worth discussing.
THE BED OP THE PUTUEE.
The French give us charming styles in
beds, dreamy canopies and exquisite uphol
sterings, but the Germans give us comfort,
and they have our grateful consideration
just no w for a new bed style that will be sure
to come into big favor in this country, as
it points to the utter annihilation of the
cumbersome double beds and the substitu
tion of two single beds, placed snugly to
gether with head and footboards so fash
ioned that they match up and form a unity
of design. The beds have separate linen,
and, although to the casual observer tbey
look like one structure, in every other par
ticular they are two beds. In sweeping
they can be more easily moved than one big
bed; they are more easily turned, and, fur
nished with separate coverings, the tat
spouse can sleep as nature made her, while
her thin mate can bury himself in blankets
and snooze without fear of pneumonia.
The other day I saw a pair of antique cur
tains which John Jacob Astor paid $200 for.
Within half an hour and a stone's throw I
saw almost identically the same thing, just
as fine, as complicated and as good stock,
for 15. The reason was this: The making
of antique lace curtains dates back to about
ten years prior to the Franco-Prussian war.
TAUGHT BY THE EMPRESS.
The poor of Luxouil, France, were in
wretched circumstances, and the Empress
Eugenie conceived the idea of educating
them in lace work. She taught them the
peculiar fih-net stitch of the "antiques"
and sent them the stock and patterns to
work up. Of course any charity of the good
Empress soon became" a lad, and, as she
used the products liberally in the drapiug
of her own parlors, society did likewise.
And the demand was soon far in excess of
the supply. As the time went on, however,
the lace workers became more business-like
and proficient in their methods. They now
buy their twines cheaper and put all hands
at work, child, adult and nged, and, as the
fashions relaxed and supplies accumulated,
prices found their level, and hence yon and
I enn get the same thing to-day lor 515
which cost the old gentleman Astor 5200.
A wide lolding doorway can be given a
charming reliel by running some of the in
numerable sorts of fret work, which you can
now obtain so cheaply, across the top and
down one side. The fret work can be
broken iu upon by shelves or places wherein
to suspend a lantern or drape a scarl. One's
fancy can take many liberties with this
style ot work, and it always breaks the
regularity and monotony of an ordinary
doorway.
FAIBY LAMPS IN THE TREES.
Everyone knows what fairy lamps are.
We have them now in forms to hang up,
and this summer we'll see them suspended
from tree boughs, on lawns and piazzas,
pleasure boats and in cozy nooks all col
ors, the size of tea cups, aud lit by broad
flat candles, specially made for them. They
are cheap and charming and sell for about
25 cents apiece.
The time was, and not many years ago,
either, when stylish house furnishing was an
expensive lnxury; taste and high prices
seemed inseparable. To-day we have the
most refined colorings and designs copied in
the most inexpensive articles. Take the box
divan a woman's supreme delight lor into
it she can dump the litterings of a sewing
room, the babies' toys, shoes, slippers and
the hundreds of odds and ends that she
hasn't the time to put away. Well, the box
divan is no longer a common looking, cretonne-covered
affair, but quite an elaborate
article. The top or lid is edged with a border
of molding forming a simple frame.
Into
this frame, which is about a half inch deep,
is set a cushion top, such as you see in
church pews; from the corners heavy tassels
are suspended; the sides of the box are
treated in plastic and here one's ingenuity
runs riot. The plastic composition is made
as follows: Three parls whiting, three parts
ochre and one part plaster of paris mixed
with white lead, turpentine and japan.
A CHANCE POB THE AETIST'S SKILL.
Apply it to the surface of the box as
thickly as desired, and with the fingers or
the pattern stencils workup a relief design.
Then color is desired. The work admits of
filter m
keen artistic skill. By gilding the pattern
In its relief pans you can give to your divan
a distinctively Oriental effect.
An excellent doorway treatment for the
chamber is made by crossing any of the
muslins, drapery prints or cretonnes into
odd folds, and applying stiffly to the door
way top and sides, with a Chinese ornament
of some sort to set it off an owl, kite or
anything of that kind.
I've a few "don'ts" to impress on you:
Don't use a feather duster on your furni
'ture, for you only disturb the dust; you
don't remove it. Use the nap side of can
ton flannel. Don't be afraid that a well
made brass bedstead will tarnish or other-
wise wear poorly; that's a long exploded
prejudice. Incquor preserves brass from
damp, and the beds are practically bng
prool, solid, dainty and neat. In England
tbey have been the correct thing for ten
years. The swell Monopole Hotel, London,
hasn't a wooden bedstead in it.
AN EYE FOB MOTHS' EOGS.
Don't think because you putyour woolens
away iu a tight box that they are moth
proof. Would cheese be unmolested it you
put it away with a caged mouse? JTo.
So if your garments are locked up in a close
case with moth eggs the grub or vrorm will
hatch, and when you look at your things
next tall they'll be riddled. These eggs tre
the size of a pin point, white and
take six days to batch. Put your garments
away where no moths can lay eggs on them,
and then every day or so watch for the
worm. Two or three weeks' watchfulness
will discover it, if it exists 'or in that time
it reaches its full size, a quarter of an inch
long, and can be easily seen.
Don't go out and buy a bottle of furniture
polish and think you know it all. Some
furniture needs varnish, some needs oil,
some polish, some water. Have a cabinet
maker come in and look over your house,
and ue on the various articles just what he
tells you; lots of trouble and ruin is thus
saved.
Don't buy blue in your carpets, if for
nursery or bedroom; blues are almost all fa
St've. C. K. Clifford.
1
0TJB WELL-BEAD WOMEN.
Mrs. Kendnl Papa III eh Camplimenta on
Americans A Gift nt the Mini.
"Americans'are wonderful people," says
Mrs. Kendal," in an interview published by
the Pall Mall Budget. "Nobody can have the
least idea of their real qualities unless
they have crossed the Atlantic and seen for
themselves. What astonished me most was
the extraordinary cleverness of the women.
You mention any remarkable book to them
and you find that thev have got every word
ofitin-their heads. " To call them 'well
read' is hardly doing them justice. All
over the States, too, they did their best to
kill me with kindness.
One of my biggest admirers was the mas
ter of the mint at Philadelphia. When we
were playing iu that city he wrote to me
and asked me if I would like to visit his
dollar lactory. Well, we went and saw
everything. But I was especially attracted
by the specimens of the now obsolete 53
piece. I asked my friend if he could uot
let me have some of these to take back with
me to England, and he actually granted my
request. Here is one ot them." And Mrs.
Kendal showed me a grace ully-designed
gold coin, rather larger than a hul.'-sover-eigu.
'A few of these were struck on pur
pose for me, and I am going to give them
to my friends as a memento of our tour."
IKT0XICATED CHICKENS.
They
Gobble Up Bramlled Clirrrlea
and
Thrn Wobblo Abont the Yard.
St. Loali Republic.
A fellow citizen threw a handful of wild
cherries steeped iu brandy out in his garden
the other day and was surprised to see his
chickens eacerly gobble up the Iruit. More
surprised were the cack'ers themselves
when, for the first time in their lives, thev
needed more than two legs to stand upon. "
The hens looked foolish enongh, but the
most comical sight was a big Brahma
rooster, who would sidle up to the bens,
made a flat failure of trving to Jook digni
fied, blink a few times, when his head would
sink lower and lower, till over he would
tumble, and after a struggle he would get
up again and go off with a sidewheel
motion for all the world like a lord or
creation under similar distressing circum
stances, but with this difference in favor of
the Shanghai be did not knowingly make
a fool ot himself.
He Llvea on Water Aloni-.
rwnmiy toe tiie disim.tcii.1
Gilhooly: Have yon read about Sacci,the
Italian faster, who lived 40 days on nothing
but water?
Gus de Smith; Yes; but there is nothing
remarkable in that, I know a man who has
been living for years on water alone.
Gilhooly; That's impossible. ...
Gus de Smith: Guess not. He got bis
money invested in a water works company,
aud he lives on the dividends.
AT.irr. B. SWXET.
CUT FROM THE LOAF.
An Old German Custom That Settles
the Stale Bread Question.
CLARIFYING FAT FOR COOKING.
A Treatment for Batter That Will Keep It
Sweet for Half a lear.
KEC1PZS FOE THU H0DSEEEEPEE8
rWWTTIX TOB HH PISPATCH.1
The edict has gone forth that the homely,
but sensible, German custom of bringing tha
whole loaf of bread to the table and slicing
as needed is entirely proper. At the pres
ent time there is a demand for carved bread
boards, and although simple in construc
tion, they are unique and curious in design.
Some are highly ornamental, with quaint
carvings and appropriate mottoes. Tha
bread is placed on the board (with a very
sharp knife) near the hostess, who shaves it
into thin slices. This innovation settles
the question, "What shall we do with th9
stale bread?"
Clarified fat is much used by economical
housekeeper lor pastry, frying, greas
'hff, etc. It is more wholesome and
much cheaper than the rancid but
ter and the many spurious articles sold
for cooking purposes. For clarifying
one can use the gravy from roast beef, tha
fats from soup stock, boiled corn beef, boiled
ham (or fried), the fat from chicken and
veal, and suet from beef, which is best of
all lats, and so excellent for puddings, pics
and apple-dumplings. Many excellent
housekeepers, of unlimited means, set grea
store by their crock of drippings, alway3
ready wnen butter is scarce, and the lard is
rancid. Ham or bacon drippings are much
used to give flavor to fried potatoes and
fried parsnips. Beef drippings are invalu
able to the housekeeper, and are not only
used lor frying, bnt ior a variety of purposes
in cooking. In clarifying it is well to sepa
rate the fats. Strong flavored ones, snch as
ham, bacon and corn beef, should not ba
clarified with the delicate ials of veal
chicken and.beef.
HOW TO CLAEIFY FAT.
The process of clarifying is as follows:
Pat in a saucepan the trimmings of meaU
and the suet, cut in small pieces. Add a
little water and place on the range whete
the contents will cook slowly. The gravies
can be added to this, and when a sediment
'orms at the bottom the lats are clarified.
Strain through cheese cloth. The same fa;
can be used over and over again if strained
each time. The fat used for frying fish
must be used for no other purpose. In fry
ing oysters, croquettes, potatoes, etc., do not
immerse in the fat until a blue smoke arises
from the center. To test the fat for cooking
throw into it a piece of stale bread, which
should brown-in one minute. If not quits
ready to use the fat when it has reached tha
cooking stage throw in a piece of raw pota
to for it to work upon.
Butter for cooking purposes should al
ways be clarified. The German method is
an excellent one. If 10 or 12 ponnds is to
be clarified it will rennlre four or fiye hour
of slow cooking and frequent stirring. It
should bestraiued into perfectly clean crocks,
closely covered and tightly tied. The butter
at the end of six months will be found sweet
and pure. Many prndent housekeepers
clarify butter when it is good and cheap, so
that it may be preserved lor future use.
CASE OF FEU1T JARS.
Just as soon as a jar of fruit is used, thor
oughly wash the jar and the cover. Put
both in a pot of cold water with a piece of
sal soda. Let come to the boil and boil
well. Binse in hot water, drain dry, put on
cover and place in the fruit closet, ready for
future use.
Serve jelly glasses in the same way. All
vials, bottles, jugs and crocks thai are fit
lor use should be thorouzhiy cleaned and
boiled. Mops are very good to clean fruit
jars and jelly glasses, and can be bought at
some stores for 5 cents. The mop is so use
ful for many things, and so facilitates the
cleaning of vessels too small for the hands
to enter, that to use one a single time will
insure it an ever-welcome place in the
kitchen.
To the woman who does her own work,
much time and labor will be saved by caring
for the jars, glasses, etc., in "the manner I
have described, and there ii certainly great
satisfaction in viewing a closet full of sweet,
clean vessels, jnst ready for use, when tha
trying season of putting up fruit is at hand.
To keep the jars and glasses from breaking,
when filling with hot fruit, place on a folded
L towel wrung out of cold water, or put a
spoon iu the jar or glass while filling. It is
not necessary to warm the jars or glasses.
Here axe some economical recipes:
LAYEE CAKE.
One egg, one cup of sugar, one cap of milk;
one tcaspoonful of soda, two teaspoonfnls of
cream ot tartar, two cupfnls ot silted flour,
bntter the sizn of an egg.
Flavor to taste.
, APPLE PTJDDIXGI.
One cupful of milt, one egg, one teaspoonfal
of cream of tartar, one-half teaspoonfal ot
soda, add flour enongh tn make a etiff batter.
Pour this oyer quartered apples and steam
for two hours.
Serve with sauce.
FEU1T JUICE SAUCE.
In canning f ruits reserve the juice left over.
Add a little more sugar, and let boil for a few
minutes.
Pour into small vials or bottles and seal.
This julca is most excellent for pudding
sance. which is made as fmlnus:
Cream together one tablespoonful each of
batter, flour and sugar, and stir into it some of
the boiling fruit juice until thick and smooth.
A little hot water may he added, if necessary.
EUtSIAS ICED TEA,
This Is a delicious summer drink. Prepare
the tea after the recipe given in a previous
number.
Squeeze Into a tumbler the juice of half a
lemuu.
Fill partly with the cold tea.
Add ponniied or cracked ice and sweeten
with lump sugar to taste.
RUSSIAN TEA.
Steep the tea after the usual rule.
Pare carefully a fresh, juicy lemon and cut
Into thin slices.
Lay a slice in the bottom of each rnp, add a
lump or two of sugar, and pour over these water
freshly boiled.
This is a delightful and refreshing beverage.
POTATOES SAUTED.
One quart of raw potatoes cat Into cubes or
made Into balls by a vegetable scoop.
Cook for ten minutes in boiling water; drain
and add four level tablespoonfuls of butter.
Shake over a hot tire until they are nicely
browned, or pat into a trying basket and im
merse in hot lard or dripplne.
Sprinkle with salt.
SOME USEFUL IIIifTS.
Copperas dissolved In boiling water re-
moves instantly the impurities Irom drains and
sinks.
Honey should be kept in a dry, dark place.
II exposed to damp it becomes thin and
watery.
Hay water Is a purifier of tin. iron and
woodei ware. Boll a handful of hay in new
Iron pots and teakettles. In Ireland hay water
is used in the dairies to sweeten tho milk:
vessels.
soap scraps can be utilized by Ailing a small
flannel bag with them, not too fulL Sew it up.
put on a loop and bang where tbe children can
get it to wash with. The bag will have no
tendency to wander off. like the usual piece of
soap, nor is it likely to be thrown out.
Open a can of lye. place In a large crock and
cover with boiling water. Use for rongh clean
ing, such as floor-, board walks, greasy tables,
sinks, etc. Put a tablespoon f nl or two In a pail
of warm or hot water. Fill up the crock oc
casionally. Keep out of the reach of children.
To clean willow chairs make a solution of
spirits ot ammonia and hot water. Apply with '
whisk broom, a'nd rinse thoroughly. Salt and
cold water can also be used with good effect
for this purpose, and is also excellent for clean
ing straw carpet or matting. Never use soap's
on wiuow ware or mailing, or iney win Decoma
yellow.
E1XICX Ssbxna.
im