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SHIRLEY DARE ON DRESS.
A Letter For Women Who WUh 10 Look
Well but Haven't a Gold Mine to Drnrr
Upon Strictly Correct fctylea for Street
Wear.
IWJUTTKT TOR THI DUPATCn.
"There isn't half the pleasure buying
gowns when one has plenty of money," Eaya
a shrewd woman with a pretty good notion
of both sides of the subject. "The interest
comes in when you
have just enough
to get what you
want by drawing
liberally on con
trivance and taste.
For mysel',1 grow
tired reading
about opulence I
cannot hone to
have. The fash
ion articles treat
of too unlimited
gorgeousness for
anything below
servant girls' im
agination, who
seldom find flights
too extravagant to
please, them. I
wish somebod
'y
Back of Home Dress.
would write
for
women who wish to look as well as the
best
on ordinary allowances."
It isn't impossible to look as well not to
dress as well absolutely, but to make as sat
isfactory effect on much less monev than
rich women spend, if one has strict taste, a
command of shopping sense and is cleverat
her needle. Three-lourths the cot of dresses
from first-class houes goes for the making,
not the material. There is just one thing
women want to understand more than the
higher criticism of Swedish gymnastics, and
that is dressmaking. Every girl should be
taught thoroughly how to plan a dress and
finish it in correct style, for good dressmak
ers are scarcer than saints, and honest ones
far more so.
A. GOVS FOE THE STBEET.
Not to tell the wearying novelties of style,
.but to select the best points is a pleasing
matter. The gown for the street, rich or
plain, is of wool, silk being left to the dow
agers out of doors. A well-chosen wardrobe
will have a selection of these in cheviot,
serge, Henrietta, mohair and the drap d'ete,
.most useful and welcome of fine goods.
.Each material has its own special mode for
making, and its own accompaniments of
I hat, gloves and lingeree for correct dress.
Begin with a cheviot check for mornings
a and shoppi ng. There are 50 patterns of
! cheviot in small plaids, but one will re
I strict the choice to shepherds' check in crav
and white, dead leaf, fawn or stone color,
with creamy white, crossed perhaps with a
bar of taint yellow, old pink or indigo, or a
thread of less indefinite, blue, red or amber.
'Let the red checks and blue checks and
heliotrope severely alone, as they fade, for
one thing, and they never look quite right
for the other. A smart suit in cheviot has
the skirt all round in flat box pleats, or with
gathered straight drapery in the back, with
jacket and plain vest oi thick glossy silk, or
a plain surah "blouse, gathered at throat and
belt. No fancy stitching, no trimming of
any sort, but the pleats of the skirt pressed
in sharp folds, as if laid by a straight edge,
and stitched firmly to 'tapes all round, so
that no winds can blow them out of place.
ITBEQUIBES SKILL
Beady-made gowns are seldom satisfac-'
tory in this respect, and second-rate dresj
xcakers have a pleasing fiction that slacklr- '
secured lolds are more a rtistic, which is tol
erable and not to be endured in a cloth
gown. The little linen collar and small
soft silk tie go with this, or the revers are
thrown back to show a linen or silk shirt,
or tne high silk vest always advisable on
cool d ay s. One of the most convenient and
JL French Tea Gown,
nattiest of suits for the street, the English
blazer costume, is made of blue serge or
Bummer cloth in black, marine or blue
black shades. It Is strictly a town dress
in its trim plainness and style, but will be
the favorite walking dress of the season
wherever seen. The skirt, absolutely plain,
is laid in the broad pleats wnich give the
best lines to the height; and the jacket with
fitted back and loose front is adjustable to
be worn open above the chest button and
fall together below, or loose to show the
silk blouse and sash which girdles the waist.
The outlines are perfect, not an Inch ol
superfluous material in the whole thing,
and the jacket has as few seams as a gar
ment can be shaped .by. These "blazer"
"suili as they are called, because worn with
the w ashing silk blouse and sash tinder the
jacket, are the easiest models for a novice
At dress making.
By the way, the greatest helps for home
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dressmakers are the paper models, which
are exact duplicates of full costumes in
color, drapery and trimming, in miniature
about 10 inches in height, with full-size
patterns accompanying. With these a wo
man can see just how every fold and gather
is laid, and every line of trimming and
hem. It is absolute pleasure to fashion a
costume by the help of these clever models,
which reduce the work of making the in
tricate looking gowns of the mode to com
parative simplicity.
THE BEST IN BLACK.
The black dress, indispensable to fvprv
lady's outfit, and more Becoming than any
if properly made, is Henrietta, batiste
cloth, which looks like fine, firm canvas
with substance and lightness, the silk
camelsbair twill which repels dust and
wears better than any less expensive fabric,
orthedrap d'ete coming in favor ac-ain.
For these gowns the front width is almost
invariably draped, the Hides in flat, shal
low box pleats or the wide panel pleats.
lading in nai tnewiam oi tne skirt to a
pleat, giving the simplicity of the plain
English skirt, without its blankness.
Handsome Henrietta dresses show lengths
of line silk passementerie without beadinr,
or fine cord embroidery between the pleats.
Black cashmeres have skirts with side
pleats meeting in front and full gathered
back, each pleat having two-inch gros grain
ribbon stitched down its entire length, with
three loops at the front. Thin trimming is
not new this year, but the effect is too good
to be laid aside. Other cashmeres and sum
mer flannels have the pleats striped with
fine sontache, three-quarters of an inch
apart, and these simple trimmings freshen a
gown in its second season very well. Ac
cordion pleating is too pretty to be quite
given np, but is seen more in white dresses,
lace and children's wear. The nne pleats an
inch wide have really the same effect, and
wear endlessly. If they are plenty of work
to make, they lengthen the wear of a skirt
three times as much as the plain fashions.
But to look well, thee pleats must be
stitched to the foundation invisibly, as the
three rows of machine stitching visible
The Some Dress,
across the skirt which usually holds them
in place takes awav all the grace o the fine
work. These black gowns of substance are
needed at the North till late, occasionally
cool days in summer, and are the first re
sumed in fall, so that their style should be
assured enough for a long season.
BOMS PBETTT DESIGNS.
The thinner wools, batiste, veilings and
delaines are made in the straight, rather
fnll skirts with hems,and ribbon trimmings,
or tucks and hemstitchings, or insertions of
the fine passementerie, which is little less
light than lace, but more substantial. The
netted fringe is well used with the firmer of
these fabrics sewed to the edgo of the skirt,
and falling over a fire-inch pleating the
only way yet seen when it looks well. The
fringe should leave two inches of the pleat
ing below it clear. The wool skirts are
finished with rows ol gros grain ribbon
graduated from three inches to three-quarter
inch, the trimming reaching almost to the
knee. Graduated velvet trims brilliantine
and cashmere dresses in the same way; it
cannot be said with very good effect. Bnt
the ribbon trimming on'the firm black fish
net skirts is very good.
Everything in house fashions has been
cut, draped and slashed in the manner dear
to manufacturers, because inimitable to any
uul tne iraue, nun soon uispiacea. iut tne
best styles, issued late and arriving now by
every steamer show much simpler and
shaplier dresses. Even the tea gown fits the
figure in an easy princess shape, with long
straight bands of trimming from shonlder
to hem, around the demi-train and down the
full puff of the sleeve which ends below the
elbows. A pretty gown of the sort is tea
rose cashmere, with three, bands ot oriental
embroidery in pink, gold and blue down
the front, the center one ending at the foot,
those at the side extending above the hem
round the skirt. The belt was moire ribbon
slipped under the side bands, with long
loops and ends.
A GOWN FOE INDOOKS.
A prety house dcess is a princesse in
pompadour stripes, with an overdress pre
cisely like a pattern ot apron dear to house
keepers, falling to the feet in front with
wide straps over the shoulders crossing at
the back, while the apron itself covers the
hips, meeting in the back. The effect is
good whether in summer brocade with apron
of plain silk, or the striped challies with
plain wool or baialine over dress, or the
striped gingham with plain aprons. The
costume is finished by a long five-inch sash
round the waist, tied once in front with ends
hanging nearly to the feet.
Two and four-button gloves are worn with
the long sleevese and gaiters oi fine cloth.
oiacK. urmai.cn me gown ana carelullv fitted.
are worn with the low shoes, which it is
a relief to don for the season. Velvet
sleeves give place to those of fine glossy
surah for spring dresses. The newest
sleeves are cut long, lined with colored silk
or brocade and turn up in a picturesque
woolen brocades in lovely little de
signs o hawthorn, brierbnds, clovers white
and red, or violets in modern variations on
the pompadour style, or in all over cash
mere effects, very pretty with plain clover
green, gobelin bine or buede silks.
The large headed pins in cut jets. Etrus
can gold, carved silver, or amber, are again
worn in the hair, or in toques. Jet coronets
and bandeaus confine the flufy front hair,
and velvet bands are brought across from
Vienna. Ehibj-et Daee.
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THE
DRESSING THE MISSE&
Meg Throws Oat Some Useful Hints for
Olothera Whose Dnnghtera Uave
Reached tho Gavrky Ferlod It is Well
to Give the Girls a Chance.
rwwTTjar tob the dispatch.!
OW a mother dreads the
time when her daughter
II "Rawky period," say be-
twSen ihe age of 10 and
16, when her form and
style are so uncertain;
manner so uncouth and
ideas convulsive. It is
quite probable the girl at
this period suffers as
much in continually
hearing she is crude and
hard to dress, as does the
mother in trying to trans
form her awkwardness
into comeliness.
It is about this time
that the daughter begins
to have decided opinions
ot her own in regard to
what she wants to wear
and, mother, if you are
wise you will consult
with her both in regard
to material and makeup
of her clothes; leading
her out of her own notions
if they are in violation of good taste; instead
of forcing her to adopt your ideas and wear
clothes she dislikes, thereby increasing her
paintul awkwardness. You know by ex
Derience how impossible it is to be at ease in
fniod or body in garments you dislike, reas
suring compliments from all the friends you
have to the contrary. You must respect
this same feeling in your daughter it you
n-nnlil brinir about the desired result in
would brin? about
dress. Therefore "Dearest," consult your
.Little Lady Fauntleroy in regard to what
she will enjoy wearing and, regardless of
the vogue, she will appear to the best ad
vantage in her own choice. You will find
her tractable if treated with confidence. She
is early too anxious to dress becomingly to
persist in a style if you can show her she is
detracting rather than enhancing her ap
pearance. If she has "grown up like a weed" and is
slender unto painfal leanness, explain to
her the philosophy of checks and large
plaids for one of her physique and thatshe
must avoid stripes as she would a plague;
and that her gowns must be made with the
fullest skirts; the waist must be full and
round; sleeves puffed and throat high; leav
ing stripes and dotted effects to her "chum"
who is fat to pudginess and who will
appear at her best
in plain, pointed
waist, low throat,
and close-fitting
or open sleeve
Daughter will soon
realize the forceof
your argument
and thank you lor
it. Take her shop
ping with you, too,
as often as possi
ble. This will not
necessarily be
teaching her folly
nor cultivating an
inordinate love of
dress. She must
learn just so much
of it someway,
somehow and un
der your direction,
and" in the enjoy
ment of your con
fidence she may be
taught to have
method in her mad
ness, and to select
with discretion andj
discrimination,1
and by and by re
lieve you of the
fatigue of shop
ping. By the way, is
there flnvthinc
more tiresome andisit an enjoyable fatigue
Edward Bellamy and his opinion as mouthed
by Julian West, to the contrary? Mothers
at leat do not enjoy shopping, and have no
time ior it; but to them it's a necessary evil
that must be endured. Gladly would they
hail the Utopian system of the twentieth
century, as portrayed in "Looking Back
ward." ,
But, to get back to our girls and face to
fare with the fact that they must hare
clothes and consider what obtains in way of
fashions for them. The illustrations show
the prevailing styles, which, both for beauty
and utility, will commend themselves. One
is made of challie, cream colored, with
flower effects in natural tints; the gimp is
of creamy lace; a two-faced ribbon encircles
the waist. This style is equally prettv lor
silk, wool or cotton. The new and service
able wash silks are to be recommended for
dressy occasions, and are so moderate in
price as to be within the reach of all. So
great is the variety of designs in these dif
ferent grades of material that the changes
can be rung on one style ot making with
tireless reiteration.
Another illustration represents a girl 10
years old; dress of foulard silk, pink, with
white rings; the gimp and waist band of
pink surah. err are
the costumes for
young or old not dec
orated with one or
more buckles the
present season.
Still another is a
suit of blue serge,
trimmed with gilt
braid and brass but
tons; silver trim
mings on green serge
or amethyst trimmed
in silver, gold or
white braid would be
equally effective. At
tention must be call
ed to tho many pret
ty jacket effects, so
stylish, and when
made separate from
the dress, so service
able. These can be
made of tnedressma
terial, but the pretti
est are of velvet,
trimmed suitably
with white VanDyke
laceor any of the gay
galoons or passemen
teries. You notice skirts
are made plain.a sim
ple style on its face;
hut simplicity is de
ceptive as well as ar
tistic These skirts
may be shirred, gathered or pleated, and
trimmed with any number nf rows of moire
or velvet ribbon or braid and yet be devoid
of beauty unless they "set" or "hang"
well. If they are wrong in this
particular no saving grace of picturesque
bodice or elaborate sleeve will render the
.dress anything else than a failure in artistic
effect. Mothers sbonfd not need to be
cautioned about buying "cheap material for
these harcm-searnm tirls'nor for any girls,
nor for themselves for that matter, since it
is paradoxically true the cheapest, is always
the dearest, and vice versa, and especially so
for growing people. There is one thing I
am afraid they will have learned before the
proper care of their clothing, and that is the
use of cosmetics; so much in regard to them
is said, written and practiced that girls are
likely to take their use as a matter of course,
therefore it might be timelv to give them the
prescription of the old Quaker lady, who,
with neither a knowledge of nor wish for
these outward ndditions which nre supposed
to render a facu beautiful, suggested a cos
metic which should show a beautiiul soul:
For the lips, truth; for the voice, prayer; for
the eyes, piety; for the hands, charity; for
the nguxtf uprightness, ior the Heart, love.
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B.
PITTSBURG-
DISPATCH,
THE PERFECT. LADY.
Ladies of the Capital Tell Who She Is
and How Sho Acts.
BELLES AT THE WHITE HOUSE.
Mrs. Ingalls' Idea of the Southern Girl and
Her Qualities.
W1TES OF L1YING EI-PEE8IDENTS
CORRESPONDENCE Or TITS DISPATCH. 1
"Washington, May 24. During the
past week I have interviewed our leading
statesmen's wives as to "The Perfect Lady."
I find that each bas her ideal, and that their
talks are full of good points of advice to
the young women of the land. I first
chatted with Mrs. Harrison. Said she:
"Girls should imbibe good manners with
out much teaching, but there is one quality
that mothers should impress on their daugh
ters, and that is that they should always
consider other people's pleasure before their
own. I am sure that this is the one thing
lacking in the well-bred girl, and I have
been pained beyond measure by seeing girls,
when they were introduced to any person
who for some reason they did not consider
their equal, bow coldly without one kindly
word of greeting, and turn the head to con
tinue their interrupted conversation with
some friend. That has happened at mv
receptions, and it occurred once or twice
when Tmyself have made the introduction.
Disrespect to any caller at the White House
is disrespect to me, and I have decided
never to officially recognize girls whom I
have seen gnilty 'of this breach of kindli
ness, if not of etiquette. I am fond of
youug girls and I like to see them winning
and cordial in their manner to the most
humble person who comes into their pres
ence. Thev can find ample time to enjoy
their friend's' society in their own drawing
room, but when they are in any home to as
sist the hostess they should make courtesy
to their guests the first consideration.
WASHINGTON AND HIS SEEVANT.
"I always think when I see any one dis
dainful of those whom they meet of the
story of Washington when he met his col
ored man servant, and raised his hat in re
sponse to the man's salutation. Some one
said to him:
" 'Is it oossible.General Washington.that
you raise your hat to your slave?'
" 'Yes, always, for I will not have a slave
outdo me in politeness.'
"To me," continued Mrs. Harrison, "that
is the most essential lesson a girl can learn,
and if she remembers that story well, older
people will never have to blush lor her,
and," with a little laugh, "I will not have
to debar her from the White House."
"Do you not think Washington society
open to criticism on other points?"
"No," replied the President's wife, "I do
not think of any special things, for I think
the Capital deserves its claim to being the
most iriendly and courteous of cities. There
is one custom that I have some time re
gretted, and that is the fashion which has
arisen in the last three or four years of not
introducing strangers to your friends. Of
course I do not mean making general intro
ductions, for trjat has all the faults of the
other extreme, isut it surely mates any
caller feel more at her ease to have the right
to speak to at least one person in the room.
It is understood that it is a lady's privilege
to recognize any one she has met in this
way, but at the time it is certainly more
kindly and more American to introduce.
Then, too, as a rule a hostess invites very
few people to her house whom every lady
present cancot recognize."
SHE IS ENGLISH, YOU KNOW.
One of the howling swells of this city is
the wife of a rich man, who is also a Sena
tor. She is a woman who has always had
wealth, and she is elegant looking. Every
thing abont her position makes her a leader.
But her drawing room is not popular, and it
is easy to tell the reason. She has tried to
introduce English customs into this plain
American country. A lady whom everyone
has learned to know and like describes a call
at her bouse in the following manner:
"I called upon Mrs. Blank because my
position demanded that I should make the
first call, and then I had heard that she was
such a briliant woman that I was anxious to
meet her. When the butler announced 'mv
name she turned a face of the kindliest wel
come upon me.
" 'I hope you are enjoying your first win
ter in Washington,' said she, and then
turned to a group of ladies and gentlemen
at her right and began talking in a laugh
ing, witty way which they all enjoyed more
than I, lor I conld not hear a word, and
evidently was not expected to. She knew
all her other guests well and I was a per
fect stranger, for she made not a single in
troduction. I was just meditating a' de
parture, for I felt forlorn, when she turned
upon me with a winning smile, such as she
had first vouchsafed me, and said: 'Won't
you go to the dinning room, Mrs. ,
and have a cup of tea? You will find Miss
at the table,
AtrreathonesnrannninTnMrtth.t
I would find a friend as well as a cup of tea
in the dining room, and I passed on
through crowds of people whom I had never
seen, but who seemed to be intimately ac
quainted. I think I never be'ore saw other
people having quite so genial a time.
CHILLY IN THE DINING BOOM.
"Beaching the dining-room I saw a girl
who was presumably Miss , for she was
seated at the tea urn, but she was engaged
in a most piquant parley with a dozen men
who were evidently foreigners. I waited
patiently for the cup of tea which I had
been led by the hostess' bland words to be
lieve only awaited my coming, but it was
not until every foreigner had bowed himself
out that my lady turned to me and drawled:
'Have you had tea?'
" 'No, but I should like a cup very much,'
I said, cheer ully, all the time cherishing a
hope that she would at least preteml .that
she was as glad to see me as the gentlemen
who had just left. Bnt, no, she only aid:
'One lump?' as though she was giving me
my choice of hanging by the rope or death
by electricity. I sipped tea and she looked
weary until a pretty girl and a half dozen
men came in, and then she gushed: 'Ob,
you dear old duck, you knew I would be
bored at this wretched tea table. Why
didn't you -come be"ore7' I never found
out why the duck had not been on time, for
I left chagrined and homesick."
Mrs. fieed, the wife of the Speaker of the
House, is another lady who agrees with
Mrs. Harrison that the uukindliest custom.
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in wnsnineion is tost oi not maEing any
introductions. In talking of it she related
a little incident ol how, when she first came
to the capital as a member's wife, she took
a friend with her to call upon a ladv hiVh
up in the official scale and who had jnst re
turned irom auroau. xney entered the
room, were received winuingly by the host
ess, who soon had to give her whole atten
tion to some new arrivals. The ladies who
were receiving with her looked at them
coldly, chatted among themselves, and
they drifted through the rooms fairly ostra
cised because they chanced not to know
anyone.
"We soon took our departure," said Mrs.
Eeed. She paid a pretty compliment to
Mrs. Windom, the wife of the Secretary of
the Treasnrv, by saying that she came near
est to her ideal of a'welbred woman.
MBS. SENATOB INGALLS' IDEAL.
Every woman has an ideal woman whom
some one of her sex almost equals. As
Mrs. Windom is Mrs. Beed's, so is a woman
now almost forgotten in Washington the
ideal of that thoroughly lovely woman,
Mrs. Ingalls. Mrs. Carlisle Patterson, ac
cording to her was tbo most perfect lady the
capital has ever seen. Ten rears son M-.
Patterson was a leader in society here, and
bo kindly was she that her good deeds lived
after her reign. Mrs. Imralls dMrrih.a h..
by saying that she had a quality which the
Imoit ignorant person recognized, bnt which, I
1 jIIBMH M II I siMflailBlMJmilMMliai
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SUNDAY, MAT
the most learned could not define. Said
she:
"Mrs. Patterson used to come into my
house and some way even the servants
treated her with more reverence than they
did my other guests. I used to watch the
effect "that her presence had on different
fieople, and even those who seemed most to
ack delicate intuition would appreciate her
rare charm. I once took a lady to call upon
her whom I thought had every good quality
but one, that of delicacy of feeling. When
we came out she said: 'Was there ever so
perfect a woman. She is like a bit of most
fragile china.' But Mrs. Patterson had
generations of good breeding back of her,
though I think a woman can be a perfect
lady without that. Indeed I have noticed
members of her own family who did not
have a tonoh of her peculiar graciousness.
Instead of thinking kind things she always
did them, and I do not know whether that
is not the quality that most of all makes
the woman we recognize as the 'perfect
lady.'
SODTHEEN 'WOMEN ABE HELPLESS.
"It is truethatSouthern women, as a rule,
are held up as examples of perfect womanli-
ness,and I take it it is not because they are one
whit more kindly of heart, but because they
study the art of pleasing more, and I won
der, too.'if their seeming helplessness does
not have much to do with their reputation.
I have noticed that even if you do so slight
a thing as to ask them to your dining-
room to tace a cup ot tea, they loos: at yon
in snch a helpless fashion that a flutter of
pity fills your heart, and you involuntarily
take them out, all the time thinking,
'what a sweet woman.' "
After this little talk Mrs. In gal Is wrote a
note in which she so well defined the quali
ties of the "perfect lady" that I give it. "A
woman may be cultivated, accomplished,
stylish and thoroughly au fait in all the
r.l j - . ',. . j..:ll
juruis uuu customs oi polite society auu b.ju
be lacking in the essential qualities that
make a lady. On the other hand a true lady
may be neither stylish or accustomed to
society, bnt she will grace any occasion she
may honor by her presence. The true ladv
possesses the refinement of the heart and
soul (hat reveal's itself in every action. In
training a daughter a mother should en
deavor to instill kindness of heart and
thoughtfulness of others and to be thor
oughly unselfish."
Both Mrs. Miller, wife of the Attorney
General, and Mrs. Senator Hearst think
that simplicity is the chiefest charm of a
young girl, and Mrs. Miller says above
everything else a young girl should act so
as to receive the praise of older people.
MBS. SENATOB FETE'jS STOBT.
According to Mrs. Senator Frye.of Maine,
Mrs. Hamilton Fish was one of the most
perfect ladies ever in official life here. Her
eight years' reign as the wife ot General
Grant's Secretary ot State was certainly un
matched in the annals of Washington
women, and her acts and decisions are still
quoted. The story is told of her when one
of the other Cabinet ladies at the close of
General Grant's last term suggested that
they lay down some rule for the government
of future Cabinet ladies, saying with consid
erable esprit, "Madam, we have done as we
chose. Let us permit our successors to fol
low their own pleasure."
Mrs. Frye tells a story of her that shows
her sweet thoughtfulness. Her little daugh
ter was home from school and the mother
took her with her when she called upon
Mrs. Fish, introducing her by name, Alice,
and mentioning that she was home for a
short vacation. The next wees: the little
maiden was overjoyed to find by the side of
her father and mother's invitation to a large
reception, a card, bearing the words, "For
Miss Alice." A few years later when that
little Alice died the heart-broken mother
met Mrs. Fish and there was no word spoken
but only a gentle touch of the hand that
made the tears come to the eyes of both.
That Is sweetness and surely the perfect
lady must have this kindly thoughtfulness
of children. Mrs. Frye says that the thing
most to be criticised in Washington society
is something that people have complained
of ever since society originated that of an
invited guest taking the liberty to take one
or two or a dozen friends with her to a re
ception or entertainment
MBS. CLEVELAND HEB IDEAL.
Mrs. Grover Cleveland is the ideal, ac
cording to Mrs. Senator Cockrell, the wife
of the Missouri Senator, and she gives the
best of reasons for her choice. "Mrs. Cleve
land's simplicity of manner was what made
her 'The Periect Lady,'" said she, "al
though I think even that would not have
made her so dearly loved if she had not bad
with it a gentle dignity which kept her
from being confused in the most trying situ
ations. A woman who is easily flustered,
no matter what her other charms, can
never appear the well-bred Woman. I saw
Mrs. Cleveland in society, where she was
both guest and hostess, 1 saw her in the
privacy of her life at Oak View, and I
think I never, no matter how familiar I
became with her qualities, missed express
ing to,myself or whoever was with me my
admiration for her uniform affability and
gentleness.
"People seeing her just once might havei
thought it assumed for the time, but I know
it was natural. Did you ever think that
that woman in the whole time she was con
stantly before the public never said one
word that Mr. Cleveland's enemies could
turn in the slightest degree to his ill? That
is a marvel to anyone who has been in
Washington society for any length of time,
ror i Know i? piueu in my oean men
whose wives
had so little tact that they
would openly say things which would en
danger their husbands' prospects."
"Tact is a great thing anyway and espe
cially necessary in the wile o a public man.
There is one quality that I think is incom
patible with the idea of a perfect Jady, and
that is the saying of just what one thinks. I
have noticed that people who say what they
thinlc usually think very unkind things.
Mrs. J. C. "Burrows, of Michigan, thinks
that Mrs. Hayes was the most periect type
of American womanhood.
Miss Gbundy, Jb.
THE BUSINESS W0MAK.
Men Don't Care About flinrrjine Her, bnt
Like to Get at Her Ideas.
HewYorki'ress.
The typical business woman of to-day is
an object of admiration to men and of won
der to members of her own sex. Men would
not marry her, but they enjoy hobnobbing
with her and drawing out her ideas, which
are generally novel. If they are not always
thought practical it is because other women,
who have not been real business women.
have created a lack ot confidence in the
minds of men.
The typical business woman likes men,
and talks to them like brothers. When she
is talking, if she happens to be seated, she
turns sideways on the chair, crosses her legs
and places one arm akimbo on the back
when standing she crooks her elbows, and'
with a quick little movement of her thumbs
she places them in the imaginary armholes
of her imaginary waistcoat. She is almost
always good hearted, has ready sym
pathies, and, if she acquires money, puts
he hand in her pocket to help the needy
with more than manly alacrity.
WOMAN'S BEADY WIT.
How It Was Applied by a Lady Who Was
Frlchteaed by Ilorin.
"There's a peculiar motion, peculiar to
woman alone," said Edgar A. Elliott, the
pbilosopher.to a St. Louis Republic reporter,
as he pointed to a frightened fem.ile on the
sidewalk. "That woman is frightened be
cause she fears those prancing horses may
jump upon the sidewalk and crush her be
neath their iron-shod hoofs. But what does
she do under the circumstances? Does she,
with woman's ready wit, climb that fence
or get behind that big hogshead?
"No, siree; as you see, she is desperately
engaged in pressing the palm of her right
hand over her right ear and looking fright
ened. Her object in standing so still aud
retaining that position ot her right hand
against her right ear is to escape irom the
crushing hoots ot that big team. But that's
I only a specimen of this so-called "woman's
wit.
fwf.w' T '' ."Fr!'rrf-?7rr "msfr'm
25, , 1890. ...-"", - .-,
i lii
CLAM BELLE'S CHAT.
Girls Are Now Wearing Their Hair
So as to Hide Their Kecks.
NAPI0L0GY YEESDS PHEEN0L0GY.
A Beauty's Clever Plan to Get Her Same
Into the Newspapers.
PEIDB OP THE LADIES OP BOSTON
connEsroNDixcE or Tint pisfatcb.1
New Yobk, May 24.
HE reason given by
a bright girl friend
of mine, when I
asked why she wore
her hair unfashion.
ably "low behind,
was that she wished
to hide the nape of
her neck. That was
a consequence of tho
new and whimsical
scienceof napiology.
Phrenology must go.
It is no longer
necessary to tee a woman's face in order to
read her character. In fact, it is better not
to, for women use their faces to conceal
their thoughts. They "look" goodness and
sweetness and "think" guile and roguery;
But get behind them and they are at your
mercy. You may read their characters at
your ease.
Where you must look? The nape of the
neck is the place. Here nature gives herself
away. There is an almost infinite variety of
napes, and you mustn't expect to become an
expert in napiology in a single season. You
must select ladies in collarless or cut-out
dresses, and sit behind them, in order to
prosecute your studies; and, if possible, you
should select those who wear their hair up.
The slouchv type of woman will not answer
your purpose very well. What you need is
a clear, clean nape of the neck from the bair
down to the beginning of the shoulder
blades. Classify your napes, for instance,
the aristocratic, the shoddy, the Vassar, the
cheap literaiy, the piou, thp prudish, the
plebian, the dull, the insipid, the stupid, the
penitent, the hypocritical, tne mercenary,
the maternal, the Magdalene, the trustful
and the audacious. Napiology has a great
future in all large cities where there is
material for the student.
A NE'W OTSTEB SPOON.
Ah I this is a time of erratic progress.
There was a time when the "split spoon,"
as the fori: of our day was called when it
first made its appearance, was ridiculed,
and it was many a long year before people
could be brought to use it instead of the
knife in conveying food to the mouth.
Now rare indeed is it that anyone is old
fashioned enough to despite a "split spoon."
This is an age of innovation, nay, of per
petual motion, for it never stands still, and
is never satisfied with things as they are.
An effort has been made in some of our
restaurants to introduce an oyster spoon.
It is an instrument intended to supplant the
oyster fort: now in use, and from the tines
ot which the slippery delicacy, especially
in the hands of a lady, so often drops just
as it is about to disappear forever. The
oyster spoon is much the shape
of an ordinary spoon, except that
it's smaller end is! indented, or
scalloped, and the curved edge of the nick
is made sharp, so as to cut the oyster loose
from the shell. The luscious morsel then
slips jnto the bowl of the spoon, taking all
his liquor along with him. A great point
is thus gained, for it is the juice which gives
the delicious salty flavor to the animal. The
oyster spoon has mnch to recommend it,
and, should the New York ladies take
kindly to it, it will speedily become the
correct thing elsewhere. It will make raw
oyster eating by fair women far more at
tractive to fastidious men, who regard the
present operation as rather vulgar, you
know.
EVOLUTION OF THE DBUGSTOBE.
In the way of women, and nutrition, how
is it that we take our daintiest drinKs In
drugstores, where things of horrid taste and
smell are the chief stock? As is pretty gen
erally known, these places in New York sell
many things besides medicines. And now
Uncle Sim has located postal sub-stations
in them. You will perceive at a thought
that the drugstore of the future will be an
important headquarters for the eccentric,
the rapid, the mysterious, as well as the
elegantly luxurious. For example, she may
not only get the needful dose of one
sort or' another, but also receive and
post letters without having the "peo
ple in the house" know to whom the
missives are directed, or by whom super
scribed. The next step in the evolution
will be private offices for ladies where let
ters may be written, and then the ancient
"apothecary's hall" will have become com
pletely metamorphosed from an ill-smelling
and mysterious hole In the wall to "love's
postoffice," where rendezvous may be ap
pointed, letters written, photographs re
ceived and Uncle Sam's postal facilities put
to most charming uses. Cigars and cigar
ettes are already here. All that is now
needed is a dainty lunch connter and the
morning papers." Hurrah ior the drug
store. Perhaps many of the beauties of "society"
object to the publicity that thev occasion-
A Butcher Boy's Heroism.
ally receive from the newspapers, but most
of them do not. One tall, dark young
woman, whose name appears in every pub
lished list of guests at mot fashionable
functions, has an unslakable thirst for
fame. It was only the other night that she
made one of a theater party. Her brilliant
loveliness was the center of attraction, and
she gloried in the admiring glances that
she brought from the entire audience.
PAINTING TO BECOME FAMOUS.
The play was progressing smoothly wherff
at a most serious and important point, a
groan was beard id the audience ana tne
theater pariy became greatly agitated. Two
young men were supporting the inert form
ot the be.iuty, whose fluttering eyelids and
limp attitude indicated that she had fainted.
There was immense confasion as the men
lifted her to the aisle and carried her out of
the theater. One of the ladies in theparty
reached out and unfastened the fainting
girl's dress at the throat, thereby permitting
the patient to breathe more freely, and, at
the same, showing a few snowy inches of
perfect neck. Nothing conld have been
lovelier than the helpless girl as she was
carried tenderly up the aisle, and exclama
tions of pity, mingled with murmurs ol ad
miration, were heard on all sides as the
delicate beauty of her upturned face watf
noted.
Ont in the ladies' parlor the unconscious
girl was soon restored to a normal and bright
condition and voiced the nope that there
Jwere no reporters in the house. It to hap-
pened that the affair was not published, or,
at least, no great value was accredited to it,
when several neat slips containing a pict
uresque rhetorical framing of the intelli
gence were received in the various news
paper offices from the theater manager.
There are some who will not believe that the
beautiful girl really fainted
A BUTCHEB BOY'S VALOR.
You all know what becomes of the poor
chap and the rich girl when he is valorous
in her presence in novels. They marry.
Here is the real thing. A pair of maddened
horses attached to a handsome carriage that
was overturned and splintered into atoms
flew down Fifth avenue yesterday at such a
pace that no one dared to comront them.
Coachmen turned their horses into cross
streets as they discovered the runaways ap
proaching, and passers-by withdrew to po
sitions of bafety to gaze aghast at the fright
ful scene. Finally, a butcher lad of 20, 'dis
covering the situation, rnshed out into the
center of the street and stood waiting for the
runaway team, his head lowered a little, hie
wuunuutrorai auu iii3 eyes nxed. see
ing his strange figure in its long white
frock,-the horses swerved to one side, and
as they did so, the butcher boy began run
ning ahead of them, closing up nearer to
them as he did so. Just as they reached
him, still shyinj to the side of the road, be
reached out his hand and caught one of them
by the bridle.
No one can -say how the act was accom
plished, but in another moment the horses
and the butcher boy were sprawling on the
pavement in an indistinguishable mass.
Then they were all three on their feet again,
and the boy was at the horses' heads, while
both animals stood quivering with fear.
''JUllllH
Ladies From the Hub.
When the crowd surrounded the boy his
face was not even pale. He acted precisely
as if he had done something that be had to
do, and the compliments that were paid to
him failed to arouse the slightest indication
of pride or even self-consciousness.
A certain yonng lady of much society
fame, who had witnessed the deed of bravery
said to her companion:
"Just think of it 1 Such courage in a
common little butcher boy 1"
"Yes," responded the tall, languid cotil
lon dancer at her side; "positively absurd,
is it not?"
GOTHAM'S POLITE YOUNG MEN.
We must modestly bow our acknowledg
ment to the increasing number of testi
monials to our gallantry. The latest is this
from an elderly lady: "I was at Barnum's
Circus the other night and found my seat
most uncom brtable. At the close of the
entertainment I attempted torise,and failed,
from having been so long in that cramped
position. My husband was about to lift me
by one arm when a younggentleman stopped
In his rapid decent in the general scramble,
and begged to be allowed to assist, and not
only did assist me to rise but helped my un
certain steps throngh the rnsbing throng
till I had reached solid ground.
"Soon after I entered a crowded horse
car, and resigned myself to a strap. An
other young gentleman arose directly, and
oflered me his seat. To my thanks he re
turned a hearty 'You are very welcome,'
and lifted bis hat Now if I were young
and pretty these attentions might not be re
markable, but I am a middle-aged grand
mother. Being a native of Boston, and
having traveled some, I know the customs
of other cities, and I never have met any
where else so many unexpected kindnesses,
of this sort. New York is the queen of
American cities in this respect."
HUB OP THE UNITEBSE.
Who will aver that blood is not thicker
than water after this incident, wherein a
lady entered a crowded restaurant, where
women weary of shopping most do con
gregate, and took the only vacant seat at a
table already occupied by two ladies wait
ing for their plates. She was met with a
stonv stare said to be the char
acteristic of ladies from a cer
tain highly cultivated town which
plainly told her that she was an intruder,
while mutual glances said, as eloquently,
"Now our tete-a-tete is at an end." Soon
the plates were brought, and baked beans
were set before the pair. These, too, met
the stony stare, and again mutual looks in
quired. "What in the world are these?"
The viands were daintily tested. Then spoon
and fork were thrown down with emphatic
contempt, while one exclaimed.
"Do they call these Boston baked beans?"
The observing interloper saw her oppor
tunity. "I do not think you will find gen
uine Boston baked beans in all New York.
I have failed to."
Immediately the expression of disgust In
the faces opposite changed'to one ot keenest
pleasure, while smiling lips said: "You,
too, are from Boston?" in tones indicating
an ecstatic recognition of a being from a
higher sphere. Claba Belle.
WHITNEY COULDITT HIDE IT.
Tue ExSecretnxy'a Efforts to Behave Him
self an Hi Wedding; Trip.
Cleveland Plain-Dealer.
The anxiety of newly married couples to
appear "like old married folks' is proverb
ial. When ex-Secretary of the Navy Whit
ney was married to Miss Flora Payne they
started from Cleveland on their wedding
trip, firmly resolved to appear as .if they
had been married for years.
"Now, if I appear a little cold," said Mr.
Whitney to his bride, "remember I am only
acting a part."
When the train reached Ashtabula a ver
dant couple, showing beyond all doubt tbat
they had just come from the altar, came into
the car where Mr. and Mrs. Whitney sat.
'Why, anybody could tell that tbat
couple have just been married," said he.
"Look at the man's pumps, the woman's
flowers and all that. Nobody could doubt
tbey were bride and groom. But I don't
believe we give ourselves away like tbat,
eh. Flora?"
After a few hours the tram stopped at a
station and Mr. Whitney left the car for a
stroll on the platform and a moment's smoke.
As be paced up and down, enjoying his
cigar, tbe Ashtabula groom stepped up and
asked lor a light. The countryman's stogie
was hardly lighted when, showing a dispo
sition to be friendly, he remarked to Mr.
Whitney:
"Well, partner, I guess we are in the
same boat."
Mr. Whituev was distrusted. He re
turned to the ear and explained to Mrs.
Whitney: "Flora, it's no use. Even that
greenhorn from Ashtabula has spotted us."
VIOLET INK THE BAGE.
The Iiadlea Have Chosen It Above All
Other Wrltlnjt Flald.
New York World.
Violet ink, once regarded as a pardonable
feminine vanity, bas come to be the favorite
of all writing fluids. It has the advantage
over black in that it flows more easily and is
solter to the eye, a consideration of the ut
most importance to those whodo agreatde.il
of writing. For this reason it has been
called 'the author's ink, and among those
whose manuscripts are writen In violet are
Mrs. Humphry Ward, Katherine Hllliard,
Margaret Deland, Mrs. M. B. Field, Emily
Faithful! and Edith Sessions Tapper.
N m
THE GIRL GRADUATE,
A Plea ior Her Physical Welfare and
Domestic Training.
HEB DUTIES AFTER GRADUATION.
The
Preparation of the Last Literary
Production of the Coarse.
PK0GKESS IN THii THESES CH0SE.T
IWBITTES TOE TBI PISrATCn.1
The dress and ribbon counters of our dry
goods stores are now being daily besieged by
impatient crowds of young girls, and the
time is not far distant when we shall wit
ness these same charming apparitions flit
ting nitner ana thither, not only along the
streets of our large cities, bnt down the
shady avenues of our suburban towns;
lovely, fresh, bewitching, as filmy gowni,
sheen of silk and lace, streaming ribbons,
braids of golden and raven hair, cut flow
ers and their 18 or 19 years can make them.
They have endured much. Tbey have
passed a creditable in some cases a huge
examination, and are now supposed to know
the contents of the books they have studied.
At last the prison house is opening wide ita
portals and is sending them forth into the
long-wished for freedom of the world. They
have but to read their essays and retire.
The progress of the age is nowhere
more clearly shown than in the changes .
that have been going on in this matter of
graduating exercises during the past six or
seven years. Girls seem to dread publicity
more than they formerly did, and display
a decided aversion to be heard talking,
reciting, declaiming and reading outside
the walls of a drawing room. They keep
the feeling under control, nevertheless it
exists; and though few break down under
the nervous strain, at the time, I have seen
the paper from which they read shake in
their hands, and have caught the tremulous
tones of their voices.
Let no one rashly conclude that these
young women have their' final compositions
manufactured for the occasion by some one
else. It would be doing them a great in
justice. I know of some schools where the
practice still prevails of patching up and
"improving" the papers until scarcely a
word of the original remains; but I have
been behind the scenes for some years past,
and know that this nefarious practice is
falling into disuse, and is to-day, compara
tively rare.
THE OBADUATINO EIVFOBT.
The plan actually pursued is as follows:
The thesis for graduation is decided npon,
after much thought on the part of the
pupil, and research and advice on tbat of
the teacher. Two months at leas,t is allowed
for the work; no lightening of the regular
studies being permitted. At the end of
April the rough diamond is handed over to
one of theTdculty, in case of a production in
a foreign language, the Professor of
that department. The polishing process
h then begun by the teacher looking care
fully over each manuscript: jotting down
corrections, changes and suggestions to ba
made, these limits being followed by the
puuil's own wors: until there is developed a
highly creditable paper; always with the
aid and under the direction of a teacher, it
is true, care, however, being taken to pre
serve the student's own ideas.
It needs but a glance at an old Vassar
College programme to show tbe radical
change which has been going on below the
surface. "Dreams," "Ideals," 'Patriot
ism," "Progress," are some of the insipid
and threadbare topics of those old days.
Our young women are more practical, hence
they discourse on, "Every Man in His
Humor," "The Renaissance," "Modern
Fiction," etc. "La Beaute'du Diable" was
tbe singular subject chosen by a remarka
bly bright young Western girl last year.
Another maiden discoursed on "Dichtung
und Wahrbeit." And yet in spite of this
practical tendency and with all our modern
improvements in "the line of women's uni
versities and colleges, special duties, elect
ive courses and tbe like, do not many
young girls exceed their strength, enfeeble
their constitution, and leave the school
room without any real preparation for life
and its responsibilities?
LEAVES THEM INVALIDS.
Do not many of them undertake too much,
often urged by ambitious parents and teach
ers to almost superhuman exertions, and
with misplaced affection and cruel kind
ness, to such a degree that after the bijrh
lights of scholastic festivities are removed
they give forth the characteristics of in
validism, perhaps marry, and then all too
soon pass to tbe life beyond? Doall maidens
need to study Latin, or Greek, algebra and
literature, drawing and botany, with not a
hint of physical culture or deportment,
cookery and the other domestic duties of
the American girl?
Do not imagine thatl underrate the value
of a good education. Knowledge is power,
but knowledge is valuable only as it is
made available. Suppose the average young
business man of 21 or 25 takes a wife and
rents a house. Has the high school or the in
stitute prepared this same young woman as
best it ought to superintend tbe cooking of
bis food, the keeping of bis house in order,
and the rearing of such little chil
dren as the years may bring? Yet,
and in spite of all that has been
written to the contrary, this will be
the chief dnty in life for most American
women. Is there, therefore, anything in
the whole realm of learning so important as
knowledge on these subjects? Suppose
there are 5,000 maidens between the
ages ot 15 and 20 in our two cities,
and suppose the State sets ont to edu
cate them, ought it in reason to teach them
trigonometry, Latin, and the natural
sciences, and exclude the arts of housekeep
ing, the ethics of civilization, the knowl
edge of how to keep the body alive and to
strengthen it to endure and de'y disease?
Should a good school be a theater where
only the fittest survive, where pupils daily
pursue ineir siuuica at cicijr iiuaru 10 taeir
health? Have the schools anything more
precious than health to give to the Amerieaa
girl?
HEALTH IS PBICELESS.
The greatest blessing we can confer on
our daughters is not a knowledge of mathe
matics, nor the skill of a fine musical per
former; neither is it the ability fo converse
fluently in any of tbe modern languages,
valuable and desirable as all these studies
are for disciplining the mind and cultivat
ing the taste; bnt health, a good normal
physical condition, which will equip girls
as well as boys for the battle of life. Why
then insist upon their spending time on
studies ior which tbey have no taste? False
teaching is a serious error, especially when
it proceeds by set rule and allows no in-
dividual deviation from the prescribed line.
A reform of the monotonous scholastio
programme is sadly needed in many of our
schools. Too little thought is given to the
subject, and the consequence is a sense oi
drudgery and a lack of interest The reason
ing power uccia uiv.a ugTciujiuicnij muecu,
all the faculties should receive proper -tention,
not special aptitudes be given the
preference to the detriment of others.
Tbe world bas need of strong, healthy, ca
pable women so trained that they shall be
fitted to fill any station in life,and the intel
lectual part of their nature should suffer
neglect sooner than undergo improvement
at the risk of lowering the physical stand
ing. Why cannot both be equally benefited?
F. K. B. Wade. '
Weatirard, lb a Conrae ol Emolrp, Etc.
We all know the quotation, but many emi
grants westward bound do not know tbat upon
their arrival they will have to encounter that
invisiDle foe of the frontiersman malaria.
They should take an ample supply of Hostet
ter's Stomach Bitters along. Not only Is ft a
certain safeguard against every form of ma
larvil disease, but It eradicates liver complaint,
constipation, dyspepsia, nervousness asarheo-
jnatlarr