?gpr
fcfc
I
J
i
L
H-r
20
THE WAT TO WEAR CLOTHES.
As Jnncli or More Depends Upon TL1 ns
Epoo Ibe Slake Up of the Garments
ldena Drawn From the since The !?u
gesiirrness of the Suit.
IWRITTZJJ rOB THIS DISPATCB.1
Arter all that has been said and written
In regard to individual style; in seeking
ont that style, then selecting to suit it (and
-this theory has had up to date, no more earn
est supporter than
Tours Truly," yet,
is there not quite as
much in knowing
how to wear one's
clothes as there is in
knowing how to se
lect them? Is it a
certainty that one
style is more becom
ing than any one of
several others could
be made to be? If
so, let some one
please "rise and ex
plain" how it is
actresses can adopt any stylp with equal
grace and becomingness. Have we not all
Been such an one in a cast of character re
quiring a slender, clinging, long-waisted,
long-trained toilet, a la Bernhardt, upon
one occasion; and upon another, repre
senting a living exponent of a Holbein sub
ject with ber waist relegated to her arm-pits,
lier dress short, full, nngored, undraped,
nnd as opposite to the first fairy-like creature
as pictured tyDes of beauty depicted by an
artist of a modern French school are to the
old Dutch masters?
The wonder of it all lies not in the spec
tacular effect of these styles (lor we women
know form is more made than born, softly
be it spoken), but in the manner of wear
ing; in the infusion of that subtle, intangi
ble, indefinable element which makes the
material a part of the wearer, giving to it
life, character, influence.
A LESSON EBOM BEBNHABDT.
Those of us who have seen the incompar
able Bernhardt will always remember how
much a part ot her graceful self seemed her
train. How alive, sinuous, and instinct
nith reason appeared those yards of inani
mate material, never under loot, never more
The Tailor-Hade Gown.
of an impediment than were her expressive
hands; but, like them, largely assisting her
significant eyes to translate intelligent
French into intelligible English. This art
belongs to the profession, you sav. Well, is
it not the degree we may take? Would such
study be a waste of time that could be more
profitably spent? I think the game would
be well worth the candle, for where is the
profit in buying expensive clothing, then
making a deed for our house and lot to a
conscienceless modiste with a foreign name
to get it manufactured into fashionable
shape, if we don't know how to wearittothe
best advantage? I tell you more women
look like caricatures of the ideal than is
realized, (more is the blessing!) so many
eeem to have gotten into clothes belonging
to someone else, so at variance are they.
It is no unusual sight to see persons who
Eeem to be trying to get away from their
clothes, and sometimes the clothes seem to
be making a determined effort to keep up
with the wearer and to keep on; bnt, again,
clothes and person seem to be at logger
heads, pulling in opposite directions, es
pecially at the waist line, where the basque
should" fit so snugly over the skirt as to
leave no line ot demarkation, unless this
effect be a part of the plan, in which case
trimming is adjusted so as to tell where
the one leaves off and the other begins.
HOW CLOTHING SUGGESTS.
In the suggestion which a dress conveys
lies the charm. There are several equally
attractive ways of dressing and each if con
sistently carried out, attracts in its own way
by its peculiar suggestiveness. To enumer
ate: There is the close fit with everything
trimly buttoned up; the little stiff shirt
fiout, collar and cuffs; the nobby hat and
tightly furled parasol which would scarcely
be hoisted when occasion required, since that
would be a departure from the original idea
of primness. This whole toilet suggests a
precision which a touch would imperil, and
guarantees an unhandled, nuapproached
and provokingly self-possessed personality.
Such a one is the tailor-made girl of our
illustration. Her dress is made of
blue and brown shell and plaid, the
back is pleated and the front
laps well over to the left side
The undershirt is of brown camel's hair
serge, the jacket has a vest of white corded
pique, tie of white mull, bat a brown derby.
For gowns after this model the present sea
Son's supply of cloths, flannels, and suitings,
in checks, plaids, stripes, figures and bor
ders, is much in excess of any season pre
Tious. In sharp contrast to this precise style
comes the careless, lopped on, who-cares-how-it-looks
toilet. The blouse waist is
donned for comfort, and the straight full
skirt tor convenience. The round full throat
is bared that breath may not be fretted.
The akles are untrammeled by a long skirt
that the wearer may move with perfect free
dom. Everything about this costume sug
gest! a warm, vigorous, well-put-togtther
-7i .N
Swrm f
.ft". -.
Mi
mmwk
being; the sort of wholesome humanity
whose
COURAGE AND STBENGTH
are sufficient adornment. An ideal suit
this, in which not merely to exist, but to
live, move and have our being, during a
summer out of doors; alike suitable for
rowing, tennis, shooting or rambling. For
such a utility gown the regular outing
cloth is recommended, though legion are
the all-wool materials equally durable and
pretty for such makeup.
Still another style in equal contrast to
both these, and more bewitching than any.
What the Season Calls For.
is that adapted to soft clinging draperies
which follow the natural outlines of the
form; the hair worn loose or half caught
with a drooping flower, as represented in
the old-fashioned picture marked "A
Lady," the shoulders hardly covered by
the lace drawn over them. No exposure,
but everything denoting unstudied grace.
The charm lies in the seductive self-conscious
insecurity about it all. Appar
ently at a touch the draperies would un
wind; a kiss would bring down the hair.
The fact that both hair and drapery hold
their position is assurance that neither
touch nor kiss has been given; but it would
be so easy. Ah, well! All so very attrac
tive, isn't it? "Meg.
COST OF "WOMEN'S DRESSES.
The Little Angels Thn t Always Look Pretty
on S300a Year.
New Tort Sun.!
There are plenty of women who dress and
dress well on 300 a year, but they don't
wear tailor dresses, or, if they do, one gown
in the course of two or three years is indeed
a great luxurv. They are rather the tasty,
observing, deft-handed little women who
trim and dye and mate and remake their
dresses, with the aid of a seamstress, and
trim their own jannty little hats from
models seen in the shop windows, and they
don't have their shoes made at all, but buy
them at the cheapest place they can find.
And those women are remarkably well
dressed and genteel-looking individuals, for
they usually have that happy knack of
wearing their clothes well, which is indeed
a gilt of divine Providence quite as much
ns is a voice like the great diva's.
Five hundred dollars will give a woman
of good taste and judgment a handsome
dress each season, with its requisite accom
paniment of gloves, bonnets and boots, and
enable her to look like a lady born on all
occasions if she has the laculty ot lending a
hand in the fashioning of ber cheaper
gowns, remodeling the old ones, and direct
ing the less expensive mantua makers in
the construction of traveling and street
gowns. And such a woman, despite her
reputation for extravagance, could give any
man points on economy that would make
his head swim.
The Thins; for an Oatlnc
A cool, pretty, and becoming hat for the
athletic out-of-door girl of the season is
herewith reproduced from the Ladies' Home
Journal:
THE FSTENDSHL? BIND.
Latest Fad Among the Beauties of tho City
of the Straits.
Detroit Free Press.
Your Detroit maiden encounters a friend
on the street, in the stores, at church, in her
home anywhere, everywhere and imme
diately prefers a request for a penny.
"A pennyl" you exclaim. "My dear Miss
Dorothy, why, yes of course. But w-what
in the world do you want of a penny?"
Then the merry maiden laughs and ex
plains that when she gets around' to an even
100 friends and extracts from each one of
them the coveted penny, she darts into the
nearest jeweler's and buys a friendship ring.
And what is a friendship ring?
Merely a ring of fine gold wire with
"friendship knot" attachment. It sells for
$1 and every one of them that you see on the
Detroit girls' fingers represents 100 friends
who have been assessed 1 cent each. It
won't do to accept 10 cents each from ten
friends, or 25 cents each from a quartet of
friends. Just one penny only this and
nothing more is the indispensably "swag
ger" essence of the fad.
4
THE
A HAHDSOME WEDDDHx GOWK.
The Latest Is Somettiinc or a Novelty bt
Certainly Pleaslnr.
Here is the latest thing in a wedding
gown, which, despite the multiplicity of
nuptial toilets, is indeed a novelty. The
materials are of satin, and poplin, of course,
in the conventional color and the trimmings
rare old lace of priceless worth. The court
train 3 yards in length to be carried by
pages is of poplin lined with satin, and has
one corner turned up, on which reposes a
huge bunch of orange blossoms.
The bodice of poplin has high sleeves and
Medici collar of the same material, the lat
ter lined with lace. Across the front of the
bodice fell a drapery of lace and a wreath of
orange blossoms, while the exquisite lace
petticoat, lined with satin, fell over a ruch
mg of orange blossoms.
Handsome Leather Belts.
The costumes that will be all the rage this
season need belts, and the furnishers have
designed some pretty ones. Here are three
reproduced from Harper's Bazar:
TBUTMPH OF THE CATERER.
Nowadays He Can Send a Bleal to Yonr
Flat and Hire It Fresh.
Brooklyn Eagle.
The caterers have now advanced their
business to such a point that they can serve
an admirable dinner in a flator apartment at
any hour's notice and the diner cannot tell
that the meal was not cooked in the bouse.
Oysters are opened, packed in ice on plates,
precisely as they are to be served, clamped
in flat tin boxes and delivered all ready for
the table. Bouillon is also sent packed in
ice and so are the creams and salads. Ter
rapin or lobster is delivered in a chafing
dish, so that all it needs is a lighted match.
Then it can be set on the table and served
exactly as it is at Delmonico's. Game is
prepared for the fire with a card attached
giving instructions to the amateur cook lor
warming it up.
The caterers have in a word solved the
problem of housekeeping made easy but
not cheaply. Their prices are enormous
and the premium on laziness is in propor
tion. Russlan Leather Gloves.
Ladies who rejoice in the pungent per
fame of Russia leather will welcome a glove
made of this odorous kid. The leather
works up well for the rhevrette style, and
makes a soft and elastic as well as a de
lightfully perfumed clove. The latest even
ing glove is made in pale lilac suede with
stitching of black French cotton. Biarritz
gloves for children, made without buttons,
will be found uselul, as they draw on and
off with ease, and fit with the loose comfort
that a child enjoys.
Malting; Gowns for tho Judges.
One woman has made the silk gowns of
the Justices of the United States Supreme
Court for the past 40 years, and she gets $100
for each one of them. They are all made
alike, the only difference being in the mate
rial, the Chief Justice wearing black
Chinese satin, while his associates are robed
in black silk. The Chief Justice always
wears a new gown when he swears in a
President.
A Pretty Jet Bonnet.
The following is one of the latest desiens
in jet for early summer wear. It is taken
from Harper's Bazar:
Women of the Supreme Court.
Miss Carrie Burnham Kilgore, of Phila
delphia, has just been admitted to practice
before the United States Supreme Court.
She is the fourth one of ber sex who has
sought for or obtained this distinction. The
other three women practitioners are Mrs.
Belva A. Lockwood, Laura De Force Gor
don, and Mrs. Ada M. Bittenbender, of Ne
braska. HOW TO TAKE STIMULANTS.
It Is Always Store or Less Inlarlons to Tnke
Liquor Without Food.
New York SUr.J
Any honest physician will admit that the
primary action of alcohol, the incitement of
body and mind to make their best effort, can
not be prolonged; in general the first dose ex
cites mentally and quickens the circulation;
then follow relaxation and depression. If
vitality is so far exhausted as to require this
sharp recall, combine with the spirit some ab
solute nutriment which will not tax the or
gans of aigistiou. Several are well known.
The gravy of beef cooked rare: a thick beef
steak broiled rare, deeply and closely scored
with a snarp Km;e on both sides and then
squeezed between two platters or in a lemon
press; the juice of clams, fresh oysters,
broiled, roasted, or even raw; a cup of cocoa,
or a glass of milk containing a teaspoon ful
of phosphates, a glass of cocoa extract or
wine, some fine raisins or fresh grapes, some
chocolate eaten with fruit
As soon as possible follow this with a
substautial meal of beefsteak or chops and
some bread aud fruit, and rest as soon there
after as possible. Unless there is entire col
lapse it is unwise to depend upon the action
of stimulants. When it seems impossible
to avoid their use take also some digestible
bread, a cracker or simple cake, and eat a
plain, nutritious meal as soon after as can
be received by the system. It is always
more or less injurious to drink liquor of any
kind without eating some substantial food.
. SHE WAS A MASCOT.
Extraordinary Fortune of BIrN. Bllllals, Ex
Wlfe of John Raskin.
Mrs. Millais, wife of the famous artist,
and ex-wife of John Buskin, is said to be
the happiest woman in all France. By the
painter she is regarded as his mascot, his luck
having changed almost immediately after
her divorce from the art critic. Her hus
band is worth over 51,000,000 and
the model aud inspiration of bis pictures
lives like a royal princess, followed by a
staff of artistically dressed servants and sur
rounded by every luxury that money and
skill can devise.
In face and figure she is still beautiful
and ber manners and accomplishments are
most captivating. There are Oriental
couches in all the apartments, and so beau
tiful are her Greek dresses and so graceful
her poses that every one is an artist's study.
Flectbio Portrait Copying Company, 10
and 12 Sixth st, copy and enlarge photos
in crayon, water colors, etc.; best work;
lowest prices. wsu
I
PITTSBURG i DISPATCH, 'SUNDAMAT 11,
IRISH RURAL MAIDS.
The Duchess Sketches tho Typical
Heroine of Her Novels.
A SLAVE TO THE FARMER'S WIPE.
Diversions in Church on Bnndajs
Dancing on tha fioad.
and
FE0M BIG HOUSE TO LITTLE CABIN
IWEITTXH TOE THB DISPATCH.
The Irish peasant woman I allude to the
laboring class is, as a rule, an almost fixed
one, distinctly respectable, both in mind
and conduct. While still a little slip of a
girl, say 13 or 14, she begins life that is,
work. She is then draughted from her
mother's cabin into-the house of the nearest
firmer, there to learn how to milk cows
clean pans for the dairy, feed pigs, see to
the poultry and the eggs, boil potatoes, cab.
bage and, bacon, and learn besides to wash
and dress the "gossoons" (little boys) and
the "colleehs" (little girls) of the family;
and, in fact, do all that has to be done in
the house, helped, of course, by the mistress
the farmer's wife, who works as hard as her
maid. For this our little enterer into life
receives but poor,, wages, or, perhaps, no
wages at all for the first year, her keep and
houseroom and permission to learn being
accounted equivalent to a salary. Of late
years, however, the latter arrangement has
fallen throngh, the salary, however small,
being always demanded, and with justice,
too.
Barefooted and with the short blue flannel
skirt that they weave themselves with a
small handloom, and that reaches barely up
to the knee at first, and becomes considerably
above it as youth asserts itself and the
inches grow, our little heroine scrambles
through (a long day's work in a slipshod
fashion at first, no doubt, and with many an
angry word.from the mistress and often an
indignant push. But time rounds all things,
even the hardest pebble, and after a while
the small, insignificant creature becomes
somebody "The Girl." At first she was
only Biddy, or Kitty, or Maggie; now she
is "The Girl" a great distinction. All
through the week she labors cheerfully,
merrily, with a jest for every one and a
sweet word always tor the babies.
IN SUNDAY AEBAY.
And now comes Sunday, that blessed dav
of rest, without which surely the world of
toil could not have lasted. In its institu
tions lies an infallible proof to my mind of
the divinity that shapes all our ends, that
rules the earth, and reduces the sea to its
limits, aud guards and regulates each
movement of each pigmy who struts his
little hour upon our human stage. Well,
this Sunday is the onerecreation of the poor,
both in town and country. Bnt with the
country only I am dealing now.
Our little'heroine with the first streak of
dawn rises, flings aside the toil-worn gar
ments she has worn during the past week
and will wear for so many weeks again.
and dons a new skirt, of the same texture
and hue, however, and (this is the crowning
glory of her toilette) encases her feet that
for six long days have run uncovered in
stockings and laced shoes. To appear in
chapel without shoes and stockings would
be indeed a disgrace. One must save,
starve, scrimp to go decent to mass on Sun
day! And surely there is much to be ad
mired in this regard for decency, this de
termination to appear in one's best bib and
tucker on the Lord's day, to do honor to
Him.
And now arrayed in Sabbath clothes,
away to the parish chapel a bare, bald
edifice, situated close to the little village
that hangs over the sea on a picturesque
spot that is dear to me lor a thousand rea
sons, that I was born there among others.
Up over the trees of the schoolhouse rises
the spite of the church, an ancieut cathe
dral dedicated to some old Irish saint whose
name was St. Faughnan, and whose image
carved in stone is sunk in the wall beneath
the belfry. The crows caw all day long in
the schoolhouse trees, and the two bells,
chapel and church, commingle as the Prot
estants and the Roman Catholics all stream
down from the hills that adorn the little
seaside town on all sides to their several
places of worship.
THE HAPPENINGS IN CHUBCH.
Onr little heroine, now a pretty "colleen
bawn" of 16, makes her way, accompanied
by throngs of friends, all Koman Catholics,
to the chapel, there to hear Father Jerry, or
Father Michael, or Father John, as the case
may be, mnmble through the Latin prayers,
that not one member among his congregation
can understand. She kneels, she sits, she
glances round her, she works through her
"beads" most systematically and earnestly.
and having done her duty, rises to go out
intoJthechurchyard,where,having before ser
vice sprinkled herself with theboly water in
the stone outside, she now feels herself free
to receive the attentions of the "boys," who,
if she is pretty, as many of the peasants are,
will surround her, and pay her extravagant
compliments.
At times, however, the service within does
not end thus tamely. A "great divarsion"
occurs that fills all hearts with a delightful
expectation, As, for example, when the
priest is known to be abont to denounce
from the high altar some culprit among his
flock. The unlucky or guilty one has dur
ing the week forgotten to pay his "dues"
(money collected irom the parishioners ac
cording to the amounts of their several in
comes, which with fees in weddings and
funerals make up the priest's stipend), or
else has defrauded his ueighbor, or stolen
somethiug be is determined not to return, or
otherwise broken the law. Breathless is
the excitement as the priest arrives at that
point when bis denunciation may be ex
pected and cold grow the hearts of the cul
prit's friends and relatives. The culprit
himself has generally a bad cold or a head
ache on these occasions and is confined to
his own house or cabin.
THE CULPEIT WILL HEAB IT.
This fact, however, does not stay the
priest's wrath. He well knows that every
word he utters will be carried home to tbe
criminal by his neighbors and will rankle
there until remorse and the fear that his
spiritual pastor and master will refuse to
attend bis death-bed when his last hour
arrives drives him to make confession and
pay what is stolen or owing. After this de
ligntful excitement our colleen will prob
ably wend her way to the place where the
nearest "Pattern" is taking place. This
spot will be named "The Cross," or "Sam's
Cross," or "Fitzgerald's Cross," or any
other "cross," according to the traditions ot
the neighborhood where it stands. It means
a square spot where four roads meet, and
the "pattern" means simply a "dance."
Here all the .young people meet on a Sun
day or a holiday, and, a circle being formed
by the onlookers, trip it to and fro upon
the hard aud dusty road with all the deter
mination and twice the gusto that oue may
see in a polished and fashionable ballroom.
Of late years this custom, -that was very
pretty and harmless and innocent, is dving
out; but I remember my father telling me
of a very celebrated old peasant (Flaherty
was his name) who was roaster of this cere
mony for miles round; who used to attend
every pattern to direct the proceedings, and
who on week days was what might be called
the dancing master of tbe entire district.
All odd hours, minutes, moments even, he
was attacked on all sides by men and
maidens filled with a laudable desire to
emulate Terpsichore. His method of teach
ing was a novel one, and as it may be ot use
to modern and fashionable teachers I give it
here.
a piciubesqte dancing masteb.
It was simple as it was elegant and effi-
cacions. nouna tne rignt blue-stockinged
leg of his male pupil he would bind a small
rope made of hay and then commence opera
tions. He would first tune up the bagpipes
he invariably' carried under his arm, and
then bid bis pupil step forward. The first
notes of the jig were played; the pupil,
filled with ardor on hearing the beloved
pipes, would begin a grand and no doubt
picturesque war dance all his own, but he is
stopped by a stern reprimand from Flaherty.
'No; he must conform to rules.
"Now, thin, me boy," savs Mr. Flaherty,
"ye'll do as I bid ye, or I'll be off to Kitty
Maboney's house, "who's dead bate for the
want o' me this minnit, an' the palthern to
be at her cross next Sunday. Whin I play
the fifth note ye'll rise upo'n 'sougaun' (hay
rope) an' at the seventh ye'll sink upon
'gad;' and now begin, an' to the divil wid
ye if ye can't doit before one-half hour is
up."
And now the screech of the pipes begins.
The famous "Eakes o' Mallow" is in full
swing, but above and over all sounds the
voice of Misther Flaherty yelling at his
Pupil: . ,
"Rise upon sougan, sink upon Kd.
"Och murdher, was there Iver sich a fool I
'Tis throwin' away me talent upon ye I am.
Arrab, look at him, Mrs. Moloney, I ask ye
now. an' tell 'me can he be the son of a
clever woman like you? 'Kise upon sou
gaun, sink upon gad.' Well, there, I'm off
now, and fegs maybe ye'll be as good as the
rest of 'em some day."
The meaning of "gad" I have never been
able to discover; no doubt, however, it had
its had its meaning in Flaherty's time.
PBETTY PICTUEE IN THE EOADWAY.
Well, you must make a picture for your
self of our Irish peasant footing it gaily to
aud fro on the hard road with her partner
opposite to her, and a little crowd surround
ing them, making a ring, as it were a
crowd consisting of men aud women for the
small part and of pretty, sturdy urchins,
male and female, for the great such hand
some, healthy little beings, rosy-cheeked
and bright-eyed, the outcome and the carry
ing on of the foinestpisantbryin the world;"
and olten, driving past them, have I wished
that my own children, carefully nourished
and fed on beef tea and chicken broth,
could look like these cosy rogues, running
about half naked and with nothing in their
pretty, round little stomachs save stirabout
(a coarse porridge) and boiled potatoes.
However, to get back to our heroine.
When she has learned all she can from her
first mistress the farmer's wife that is,
how to boil and wash, and how not to break
plates and dishes, her mother instantly looks
round her to find a place for her in some
gentleman's family, where the wages will
be higher and the work less. It
sounds terribly ungrateful. The farmer's
wife has had all the trouble of breaking in
that little, wild, and ignorant specimen of
humanity, and when the latter has absorbed
all that she can learn and when her mis
tress has become accustomed to her, and
might reasonably be snpposed to expect
some comfort from her, the girl calmly
gives her warning, and, aided and abetted
by her mother, leaves her "to better her
self." So the poor farmer's wife is left to
commence all over again to take in an
other girl, who will undoubtedly take her
iu in the same manner a little later on.
AT THE LANDLOBD'S HOUSE.
It is, in fact, a general "merry-go-round,"
and being expected on both sides,
is seldom resented by the farmer's wife.
The landlord's house is the one chosen by
the girl's mother lor her next venture, if by
any chance an opening there presents itself
"the big house," as the tenants usually
call it. Here our heroine begins as kitchen
maid, grows (if she proves a good girl) to
under housemaid, from that in process of
time to upper housemaid or parlor maid, or
perhaps is given over to the young'ladies of
tne lamuy it sue proves handy with her
neeaie ana develops a good appearance.
As a rule, however, their servitude en
dures but a short time. The laborer's
daughter, happier than the daughter born
in the grade above her nimely the farming
class can marry as fancy dictates, and long
before yonth has ceased to be a joy she gen
erally meets her mate, a stalwart laborer, in
all probability, on the landlord's farm, and
marries him. She leaves her comfortable
quarters as housemaid to be mistress and
wife, and, as "Artemus Ward" would have
it, a very "numerous mother" in a small,
comfortless cabin there, indeed, to rule
supreme, if that is any amelioration of the
discomfort that awaits her to her life's end.
If the Irish peasant woman, however, mar
ries into absolute poverty, she has assuredly
such compensations as accrue from a good
and faithful husband and a quiver full of
those small creatures who make lire blessed
to the wedded. The Duchess.
CHINESE SUPERSTITIONS.
Why the Mongolian Persists In Sleeping; With
Ills Ilead to the East.
Ladles' Home Journal.
It has often been a matter of conjecture
why a Chinaman .should be so particular in
sleeping with his head toward the east.
When at home, or traveling, or visiting, the
Celestial, if among strangers, exercises no
little care to avoid sleeping iu any other
position than the one which he has been
brought up to look upon as the most correct
and healthful to his mind.
According to tbe Chinese superstition it
is exceedingly dangerous to sleep with the
head toward the setting sun. The sleeper
might justly fesr darkness, unhappinessand
death; that is, of course, if be is a believer.
Ifrom the north comes coldness, loneliness
and barrenness, and to sleep with his head
in that direction would be to brine down
upon himselt and family these products of
the pole.
The south signifies passing glory; a limi
tation of wealth, health and happiness.
Therefore, that is extremely undesirable.
But to the east the source of the rising
sun in all its splendor is where the Celes
tial looks for all his good gilts. From it
come (so he believes) light, lite, wealth and
happiness. No misery, or wretchedness, or
want can come from the glorious east, so he
must sleep with bis head in that direction
in order to get the full benefit of the good
gifts which will come to him.
Often, in traveling, Chinamen carry a
mariner's pocket compass, in order that,
when the time comes to retire, thev may dis'
'cover wfiich way to point their heads. If
they make a mistake and sleep the wrong
way, they are likely to lose just so much
health and happiness. With a dead China
man this is reversed; for we believe'that
after death the body has nothing to lose
and the head, therefore, is placed before the
west.
THE CHINESE INVENTED IT.
Like Civil Service Reform the Xylophone
Cnine from tho Celestials.
New York Mall and Express.
"The xylophone is generally looked upon'
as a modern instrument," said a Brooklyn
musician yesterday, "bnt the Chinese 'fang
hieng' corresponds with the instrument we
now use. It was made of 16 slabs of wood
of oblong shape and of equal length, bnt of
different thicknesses, laid on a wooden
frame. As long ago as 2000 B. C. th'e
Chinese had an instrument made of 16
pieces of 'yu,' a peculiar kind of stone
which polishes easily, is of a beautiful color,
and gives out an extremely sweet sound
when struck. These pieces were hung on
a frame aud toned to Chinese inter
vals called "lu," of which there were 12 in
the compass of an octave. The instrumeut
was called a "ikang," and was played by
striking the stone with a wooden mallet. It
was only used in religious services, and was
considered sacred.
"The modern xylophone is now quite com
mon. Formerly they were to be heard only
in some of the theaters. Now you find them
everywhere, most of them being ot a cheap
frade. I get $15 for jhe instruments I make,
ut you can buy them for as little as CO
cents."
Horrid Torture.
This is often felt in every joint and muscle of
the body by turns, by people who, experiencing
the earliest twinges of rheumatism, neglect tu
arrest the malady as they may easily do with
Hostetter's Stomach P'ttera, a professionally
authenticated remedy for the agonizing com
plaint. Recollect that rheumatism unchecked
often lasts a lifetime, or abrnbtly terminates it
when tbe malady attacks the heart. The Bit
ters also remedies chills and fever, dpipepsla
and liver complaint.
1890.
BEAUTY ONHOKSES.
Gay Equestriennes of Washington
and Their Daring Feats.
MRS. CLEVELAND'S PAPER CHASES.
Biding Habits and Eosj Cheeks That Come
With tbe Exercise.
WHAT IT COSTS . TO KEEP A STEED
tCOBBBSPONDEKCl OV TBI DISPATCH.
Washington, May 10.
y HE equestriennes of
flZ the capital are num
"T1 III hered by hundreds.
Ton see them in par
ties on every country
road about Washing
ton, and their fresh
young faces glow as
they ride across coun
try, leaping hedges,
jumping ditches and
following the wild
paper chase. The last
administration set the
fashion for out-of-door
jrts. Mrs. Whitney
and her husband pat
ronized the Country
Club, and the diplo-
mates joined in with
her in the encourage
ment of long rides
about Washington.
At one of the paper
chases Mrs. President
Cleveland distributed
prizes of diamond
horseshoe scarf pins,
and nearly every mem-
Mrs. Davit. ber of Cleveland's
Cabinet rode.
Secretary Fairchild had a good horse, and
took a turn in the country daily. Secretary
Whitney donned a riding costume every
afternoon, and even Justice Lamar, who
was then Secretary of the Interior, pottered
around Washington on a pot-bellied horse.
The President mounted a horse now and
then, and Mrs. Cleveland took some rides
from her country seat. Bayard was an
ardent horseman, and his daughters accom
panied him in his rides across country. I
remember seeing Kate Bayard dashing
around the ring at the race track one sea
son and leaping the hurdles and ditches of
the steeplechase.
SENATORS' WIVES 'WHO BIDE.
The craze started then has since steadily
grown, and there are now 600 thoroughbred
saddle horses in Washington and fully 200
maidens are out riding every weefe. It
seems to me that the girls have "better com
plexions than they nave ever had before,
and the sallow, doughy, pasty faces ot
Washington society are fast disappearing.
You will find no better complexion in the
world than that of Mrs. Senator Davis.
Her lace is a beautiful one. and its skin is
as soft and fair as that of a baby, and her
cneeEs snine with tne roses of tbe fairest
maidens of Dublin. She has so much color
in them that people have charged her with
painting, but this is slander. She uses no
rouge and ber only cosmetics are horseback
riding, good walking and a love for oatmeal
porridge.
She is one of the finest looking equestri
ennes of the capital, and her tall, Juno-like
form, perfectly rounded, shows to good ad
vantage in her riding costume of black
jersey. She has her own ideas about her
clothes, and her riding habit is made a la
princess, with a double skirt, audit fits her
form like a glove. She does not wear
riding trousers, like many of the girls of
Washington, but she has a costume of ber
own under this skirt which ends in high top
boots. She is a good rider, and she has
a number of sisters among the Senators'
wives who sit their horses well. Mrs. Sen
ator Hawjey learned to ride in England.
She has ridden after the hounds, can jump
as wide a ditch as any woman in Washing
ton, and orten rides out with her soldierly
husband.
OFFICIALS IN THE SADDLE.
Mrs. Senator Spooner is frequently seen
riding alongwith the Honorable John. A
horse is no new thing to her, for she and
Senator Spooner have ridden together for a
score of years and they enjoy their gallops
just as much to-day as when they were mar-
A Historian on Horstbacfc.
ried. Senator Edmunds frequently rides
out with his daughters. He has good
horses, and sits erect whatever be the gait.
He wears a slouch hat when he rides, and
even his white beard cannot give hfm the
dignity on horseback that he holds in the
Senate. Senator Sherman rides occasion
ally, and there are a number of Congress
men who get their open air exercise on
horseback. Tom Bayne is a good rider,
and both Mr. aud Mrs. Bepresentative Hitt
loye the saddle. Mr. Hitt has seven fine
thoroughbreds in his stables, and Don"
Cameron has a number of good horses and
both he and Mrs. Cameron ride them. Mrs.
Cameron is a good rider. Her figure is
trim and she sits a horse well.
I have not yet seen. President Harrison on
horseback, and President Cleveland, thongh
he was a member of the riding school, took
bnt few horseback rides. Arthur rode every
day, and James Buchanan used to go dash
ing abont Washington on horseback with
Harriet Lane. Uncle Jerry Rusk, the Sec
retary of Agriculture, has a tall Kentucky
horse whiclThe rides almost daily, and he
sits his steed like a Centaur. The Vice
President's daughters are all fond of horses,
and take their regular riding lessons. Vice
President Morton frequently rides out with
them. Secretary Blaine's daughters are
good riders, though I doubt whether they
can manage their steeds as well as the
Bayard girls did. Blaine himself I have
not seen on horsebacc lately. Postmaster
General Wanamaker has a mouse-colored
mare upon which be sometimes accompanies
his daughters in their rides.
SOME NOTED STEEPLECHASEBS.
Two of the most daring equestriennes of
the capital are Miss Ethel Chase Sprague,
the daughter of Kate Chase Sprague, and
Miss May McCulIoch.' Both of them sit
their horses as though they were a part of
theci, and both of them can ride faster,
jump further and dare more than any girls
in Washington. Ethel Chase Sprague
learned to ride when sne was in short
clothes. Her father had a number of Shet
land ponies at his home at Karragansett,
and she was one day discovered sitting on
the back or one of these astride and riding
it withont a bridle after the other ponies in
the inclosure. She has had a number of
good horses since she has been riding in
' t,
at f
HI
fl
)IIlyp
Washington, and she is not afraid to ride
anywhere. Her favorite horse at present is
a big bay named Star, which Senator Fair
gave to her, and which she thinks is one of
the finest horses in the world. She knows
all about a horse, and she sometimes takes
care of Star herself, even to currying and
feeding him. Miss McCulIoch sits a horse
equally well and sbe rides out daily.
A number of our Sonthern girls are fond
of horses. Miss Iiulie Fustis, the heiress of
the Corcoran estate, is a splendid rider. She
is a blonde, with red-gold hair and eyes of
turquoise blue, and she has ridden over the
long steeplechase course at Ivy City, water
jnmp and all. All of the Eustis family are
fine riders, and Senator Eustis could if be
would equal many of the younger riders of
the Capital. Senator Yance rides horseback
frequently.
A ONE-LEGGED EIDEE.
Senator Butler, though he has but one
leg, is a good borseman, and his daughters
are noted for their riding. The Butler es
tate in South Carolina is iu the country
and the Butler giris spend a great part of
their vacations in the saddle. Miss Annie
Ayer is a South American girl who looks
well in the saddle and is perfectly fearless.
Upon two occasions the horse has fallen
with her in jumping a rail fence, but she
kept a tight hold on the reins aud kept
her seat each time.
The little tots of tbe saddle are more nu
merous than ever this season. You see
some little miss of six or eight perched on
a high horse, with a groom in livery riding
behind her. There is a score or babies un
der 10 attending the Washington riding
school, among them little Marion Thurber,
daughter of Mrs. Jeannette Thurber, an ex
cellent horsewoman. John Hay's daughter
is another eood rider, and Colonel Hay has
a boy of 14 who can sit a horse well. Sena
tor Hale's sou, though he Is still in Bhort
trousers, likes his horseback ride, and there
is a little girl of six named Folsom who
brings down the applanse of the school when
she rides. She goes out with her maid and
she is perfectly 1 earl ess. Tbe Misses Pot
ter, the granddaughters of Bishop Potter,
of New xork, are other good horsewomen.
A SASHING BABY EIDEE.
As I was going down P street yesterday I
saw a little figure descending from the steps
of the Blaine mansion. She was in charge
of a maid and was starting out for the riding
Two Gay Equestriennes.
school. It was little Daisy Leiter, the
daughter of the millionaire Chicago mer
chant, who is barely 12 years old, and who
is one oi me Drigntest baby riders of the
Capital. She wore al light gray habit, and
beneath ber jaunty riding skirt and falling
over cute little boots were a pair of close
fitting trousers, at which she peeped with
great complaisance. I dropped into the
riding school as I went by and I saw her
whirling around the ring with the instructor
at her elbow. She sits her saddle so well,
however, that she does not need any assist
ance, and as she flew around the tan-bark
turf her hair streamed out behind her, and
she created applause from the spectators.
She is a very pretty girl, and she will be
one of the lively companions of future paper
chases.
Mr. Bancroft has not been riding much
this year, and the long rides which he and
Librarian Spofford used to take into the
country have been discontinued. The old
historian has been confined to his bouse all
winter, and though it was only a vear ago
that hetold me he could ride 30 miles with
out tiring, he has for this year given up
riding entirely. Mr. Bancroft sits a horse
very well. Mr. Spofford now rides out with
his daughter, and Miss Spofford is a very
graceful rider. One of Chief Justice Fnller'a
daughters is learning to ride, and she prom
ises to oeoneoimegooariaersot the Capital.
DIPLOMATIC EIDEES.
9' All of the diplomats ride more or less,and
Alexander Gregor, of the Russian Legation,
has probably done more to encourage horse
back riding in Washington than any other
man. He is immensely wealthy, has large
estates in Russia and has plenty of money
to spend in Washington. He has managed a
number of paper chases, and it was he In
connection with Mrs. Whitney who started
them. The Chinese Legation has no riders
this season, but Dr. Yow, of the fast Lega
tion, was a good rider. He wore his costume
of Chinese silk in the saddle and fastened
his queue by pinning it into his coat before
he mounted his horse. He would grow wild
ly excited during a paper hunt, and he was
more picturesque than any woman who rode
with him. The Baron de Struve, the Rus
sian Minister, rides a good horse, and Mr.
Levery, of the Danish Legation, is often in
the saddle.
Colonel Jerome Bonaparte, while he was
here in Washington, frequently rode with
Madame Bonaparte, and the two made a
striking picture as they went along the
country roads. Jerome Napoleon looks very
much like Louis Napoleon, and he wears in
the saddle high military boots and sits
his horse as erect as a statue. His horse was
a dark bay of large bniid, and his wife gal
loped along beside him on a similar animal.
Mrs. Bonaparte is quite as good a rider as
her husbaud, and the two sometimes went
along at an almost reckless cait.
It costs something to own a horse in Wash
ington and since riding has become so fash
ionable it takes a rich man to learn to ride,
The rates at the riding school when the
thins. opened and President Cleveland was
a member were $100 per season and you fur
nished your own horse. A good riding
horse costs 200 and upward and it takes
just S25 a month to board him at tbe livery
staDie. Jit ne is a nigniy Drea animal you
have to be very carelul of him and there is
always danger of killing a horse in paper
basing or hunting.
EASILY A THOUSAND A TEAE.
The riding outfit, including the pigskin
saddle, an expensive riding costume and
other little etceteras run the bill very close
tu $500 for the season's fun, and if you are
an aristocratic young maiden with a desire
to be conventional, you can add another
$300 for the expense of keeping a groom to
go out with yon. In this case you have got
to have two horses, and yonr groom mnst be
clothed in a costly livery.
"They come high, I know," said a mill
ionaire's daughter the other day to me, "bnt
we have to have them." You cannot have
much fun in this world without paying for
it, and if you get the fun aud have the
money to spend, it is worth it. Girls who
have incomes of $5,000 a year for pin
money can easily afford $1,000 for horse
back riding, and the chauces are that their
fathers will be allowed to pay these bills
and the money will not come out of their
pockets.
Some of the Washington girls have enough
confidence in their judgment of horses to
buy their own steeds, and .the Bayard girls
can tell the weak and sound points of a
horse as well as a jockey. Miss Alice
Maury, one of the fashionable riders of the
Capital, has a mare that Mr. Cbilds, of
Philadelphia, gave her when it was a colt.
She broke this horse and trained it herself.
Miss Maury is posted on horse flesh, and
there is no danger of her making any mis
take iu a purchase. " Miss Carlotta French,
the daughter of ex-Congressman French, is
another good judge of horses. Sbe is a fine
rider, and though she is small, has a good
right arm aad i not afraid ot a tumble.
Miss Gbdndy, Jb.
K0SES THAT PLEASE.
Varieties That Are Beautiful, Fra
grant and Easy to Grow.
THE ART OP FLORAL DECORATION.
A Good Bi Onion in the Bed Makes ths
Flowers Smell Better.
SLEEFIKO IU A
BACHELOE'S
i.
QABDEN
WBirrET ron the dispatch.1
A small garden should at least contain one
rosebed, and for those who have not even a
small garden there still remain the pillar
varieties, which can be made to climb over
every spare fence and trellis. No plant
yields a better return for the labor aud cara
bestowed upon it.
"A stiff, loamy soil," says the head gar
dener at Hampton Court, near London, "it
what they need. You must stir your soil
often, keep it free from weeds and insect?,
place them in the full sunlight, prune thera
closely after they bloom and when they
sprout in the spring, and you'll find roses
the easiest ffowers in the world to raise."
We all love roses. Unfortunately, the
insects love them also, and not wisely, but
too well. This is the greatest drawback to
their culture. The green fly, the rose slug
and the rose bug are the greatest nuisances,
and they require eternal vigilance. This it
the price of success in the cultivation of
roses more than that of any other
plant. Tobacco smoke kills the first
most successfully; dose the second with
the following decoction: A tablespoonful
of white hellebore dissolved in two gallons
of boiling water; let it cool, and then apply
to the leaves with a paint brush or whisk,
bathiDg tbe upper and under parts. The
remedy for tbe third is to pick them off by
hand. Iu a cold or uncertain climate, with
out a hotbed or conservatory, the only satis
factory roses are the hybrid perpetuals.some
ofthemoss roses and several varieties of tbe
climbing roses, thongh the ever-blooming
roses will, with proper treatment, keep on
renewing their blossoms until nipped by
the frost.
SOME EELIABLE VAEIETIES.
Among the dark red are: Prince Albert,
Louis Philippe, Count Bismarck and
George Washington. Alfred de Rougement
and Coquette des Blanches are pure white,
and La France, La Reine and La Norman
die are bright pink. Q hese flowers are all
hardy, rich in coloring and very sweet. You
can rely upon their blooming early in the
season, and at intervals through the sum
mer and autumn. Do not feel disappoint
ed if they are chary of their buds
the first year of planting, since they gener
ally reserve their strength for the second
spring "opening." Nothing can equal or
eclipse a moss rose bud. She always has
been, she always will be, the prime favorite
in poetry and art. She best interprets the
language of youth and beauty, "half
wrapped in her mossy envelope." In En
glish gardens they are planted between the
gooseberry and enrraut bushes or under
fruit trees, aud seem to thrive wonderfully
among almost all vegetables. They are
favorites for boutonuieres. With us they
are of slow growth and somewhat difficult to
raise.
In Southern Germany during the month of
May the woods, fields and meadows are full
of turquoise-hued forget-me-nots. The peas
ants make exquisite bouquets by massing;
them around a vivid pint moss rose bud,
and then edging the blue with white
generally the delicate elder blos
somsometimes lillies of the valley,
and finishing with a fringe of small ferns.
France is the home, par excellence, of the
rose. In both their cultivated and savage
cooditions they run riot all over the beauti
ful land. The Gioire de Dijon covers many
a house with its creamy, pinkish-white petals
and buff center, and its rich, glossy green
leaves.
SKILL IN DECOEATIONS.
The slacks of flowers with which many
fashionable people decorate their tables are
coarse as compared with tbe artistic, skillful
use of a few blossoms combined with beauti
ful foliage. I once attended a wedding
where asparagus tops and hyacinths were the
only decorations. The effect was so pretty
that it called for the heartiest praise.
You will probably smile wnen I inform
you that an onion, a good large one, too,
planted near your rose busb, close enough
to touch its roots, will increase its fragrance
and the size of its blossoms. Nevertheless
it is a fact.
I have before alluded to the magnificent
gioire de dijon. It is perfect as a climber,
has a continual succession of bloom and
withers very slowly. Moreover, it grows
rapidly and is perfect both in the half-
opened bud and the full-blown rose. It can
be trained to covtr the side of a house a
southwestern side is best or it may be
planted in tbe center of four posts about a
foot apart, training the branches to grow
outside the interlaced wire, and twine all
over both stakes and chains. The gloria de
rosamond is a lovely scarlet, and most de
sirable for pillar training. So is also sol
faterre, which is yellow, and the Washing
ton, pure white. Tbe lamarque is an old
fashioned climber, beloved by the dames
who figured in the Dirertoire period. The
buds oten shade to a pale, pale yellow. You
remember Josephine's love of roses and the
hours she whiled away in her rose garden at
Malnidiaon? No doubt she found a certain
charm about her flowers which soothed
her in her loneliness and grief.
Poets have long ago sung this queen of
flowers into favor, and man has always
found a fascination in its cultivation. I be
lieve all womanly women and young girls
have a passionate fondness for tbe flower,
and consider it worthy ot their greatest care
and devotion.
FILLING A BOSE JAE.
Every lady should have a rose jar. When
rose petals are dry place them in -layers in
your jar with alternate layers of salt, sprigs
of lavender and a (er drop3 of attar of roses.
Spices.wbich are recommended in the usual
formula, give an unpleasant smell after a
little time, unless the damask rose is exclu
sively nsed. Keep the jar tightly. Do not make
the mistake of using odorless roses. The
damask rose is grown by the acre in its own
Asiatic home, solely for the purpose of
manufacturing attar of roses and rose water.
One bush iu your garden will give you
satisfying fragrance throughout the month
of June.
A little 3-year-old whom I once knew in
timately lived next door to an old bachelor,
who prided himself on his rose garden. The
small maid and the genial old gentleman
were excellent friends, inasmuch as he al
ways allowed her to pick as many of tbe
pretty flowers as she chose and could reach
without aid. Oneafternoon she was miss
ing. Mother, nurse and relatives all be
came anxions. PerhaDS she had been
stolen, for she was a lovely little witch. At
last someone suggested her being hidden
in the rose garden. Sure enough, though,
she did not answer tbe repeated calls;
after a persistent search throughout
the little paradise, she was dis
covered fast asleep between two tall, thick,
blossoming bushes. Her white pinafore was
full ot lovely red, pink, white and yellow
roses, her dark curls were strewn with them,
and her flushed cheeks were enshioned upon
them. A pretty baby asleep among the
roses 1 It was the most charming sight
imaginable, just such a picture as poets and
painters love to draw. F. K. E. Wade.
For Fifteen Tears
I have been subject to headaches, and have
suffered such tortures that at times I had to
resort to hypodermic injections of morphine.
I tried Kranse's Headache Capsules, and
they have not failed to cure or prevent all
attacks. I weigh eight pounds more than
ever before, and it is because I am free from
those terrible headaches.
Joe Saeges,
Traveling salesman forW.F. Youngermaa's
wholesale cigar house.
For sale by druggists, Thaa
skMAibdMtim