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' 24 THE PITTSBUHGr DISPATCH; SUNDAY, APEIL 27, 1890.
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K T r A "-'- jtT 3 -lily ""1L J" iT -jr.T" ti axacum, following with a teaspoonful after
K I jk I f c-9 f-pi i- F I WV 1 o "5tc52Vfe each meal, and one at bedtime. The morn-
M yl T ) ( lr llSN W . iJfir- J The Spring is a flood Time to Look "ns dose of charcoal and the four teaspoon- Latest' Manifestation of the Affecta-
sP ryv f .V -"'WIV V a v I n. V" feSTsSfS f7i .1 xi. fuls of taraxacum are to be taken for three
B rA " AJ v O ) ly""""l v I N -v ri Vvttn f7"?viii """" Ji Alter the Complexion. weeks, then omit for a week, and resume if tion of Masculinity.
P i:'! I I . ' r Jl I Wl ; I fa 1 liTV') l r feOll 1 CjE s'5 7 J necessary. A six weeks' course of this will
k ji"l V I f . f f i m n t. j . u- 1 1 JTi JLiw V Stif Ii JV: f wdea. wwuucrs m uruiuarjr cuuipivwua.
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FANCIES.
Bom of the Striking Effects Described by
Mr. Oi-nSeanev Tfae New Colon end the
Combinations That Are rroper Four of
tbo Latest Desicns.
tWEITTZjr FOB THI DISrATCH.1
xua Spring Bit-
son will be nota
ble lor the many
changes in styles
from those of sev
eral seasons past.
Towering trim,
mings are passe
and stylish women
will royally wel
come the debut of
the low and flat
models now dis-
nlsvpn hv till. !m.
porters and Amer
ican designers, the
latter being given the preference this sea
son. No stylish effect can be produced until
the hat or bonnet has been fitted to the head
of the lady for whom it is intended, hence
having the head measured Is in vogne at
the present time, and we are no longer con
fronted with the ungainly and ill-fitting
shapes seen in seasons past.
"The first to attract onr notice are the new
colors. Nuances adoptees par la chambre
syndicate of Paris are but few in number.
but these are very beaulitul. Monsereau is
a pleasing shade but very little darker than
vieux rose. Admiral, gendarme, saphir,
paon, chaseur and myrthe are various
shades of blue, ranging from a marine to a
navy. The indorsement that yellow has re
ceived will make it very popular, and the
entire scale from a deep orange to the
chamois and blanc mat will find favor with
those seeking the color that is conceded by
all artists to be the
HOST FLATTEBIXG TO THE COMPLEXION.
Gluten, mais, paille, ebenier, ble-d'or
Toreador and boulon-d'or are the
yellows jntt introduced and so sub
dued are they in tone as to produce an
effect quite beautiful when combined with
black, light blue, the browns or the greens.
The browns will be used for early spring
and the new shades are argus, gitana, ta
bic, matron and loutre. The grays are to
be revived and they are gladly welcomed
back, for they will be worn by the miss as
well as the madanie. Argentine, monette
and goura are the gray shades, whose sil
very sheen blends beautifully with the gray
or brown hair. Gold and silver braids com
bine with these grays and the effect is very
much heightened by their metallic luster.
The greens will hold their own, but will
divide the honors with the light blues and
lavenders. The names of the greens are
ail, yucca, magnolis, charmitle and
emerande. Light blue, in spite of the ad
verse criticism of dr,ess reformers, will be a
great favorite, for the combination of light
blue and black, green or yellow, is sanc
tioned by nature and can be used with per
fect propriety. The new shades ot light blue
are myosotis and xnatelot, between a ciel
and marine.
A PERFECT BEAUTY.
This stylish hat is a white
leghorn Lenox Hill, with nar
row folds of emerald green vel
vet around the crown, and the
brim is bent up at the side and
back. A long white plume
starts at the side and has
the end fastened to the under
side of the brim. It is trimmed
with two large, tight center
bows of No. 60 white ribbon,
with knotted fringe ends, and
finished with two gold and
pearl butterflies. In materials
used, crepe de chine holds un
disputed sway, and never was a
more beautiful piece of goods
given the modiste with which
to fashion this season's artistic
creations. It forms the founda
tion ior the made hats and is
used to trim the straws. For
face hats it is made in hemmed
scarfs, and after forming the
crown the tablier ends are used for ties.
HTTEXDED FOB A MISS.
This choice model is large black leghorn
'Intended for a miss. It is simply trimmed
In wide ribbon bows and streamers,
with knotted fringed ends in the
" gitana brown shaae. The slightly
upturned brim at side, near the
back, is held in position by a round
bow, from which starts one
streamer. The other one comes
from a long bow on the left side of
the hat The low and fiat crown,
in "the large as well as the small
bats, is one of the prominent
features of the season's shapes, and
from the great number of admirers
it already has we can feel assured
of its success. The bonnet has
been supplanted by the toque or f!
tMP tMllo.o.nitta fend hnt ..ah. Kn
.. vjui,-v.jmt, uu uuv VIJ' CW
bonnets are displayed, and these
lire for elderly ladies.
As toques will be the favorite of
la beau monde, the initial cut of
this article will give an idea of the
prevailing spring style. The cor
ner is of folded green crepe de
chine, with a folded black velvet
brim, above which is a band of
Eiffel tower jet and sprays of'mignon
elle. The large bow of black, fish
edged ribbon, with a jet cen
ter, is placed directly in front, and the ties
Df narrow black velvet ribbon start from a
'' Ismail bow at the back. Jet. cold and silrer
galloons, braids, crowns and laces are one
SPRING MILLINERY
' f
m
it
of the prominent garnitures, and enter
largely into the makeup of the finer devis
ings. ONE OF THE STBIK1KO PAHCIES.
Any effect is considerably strengthened
by the addition of either one of these trim
mings, and they are certainly one of the
striking fancies. An injudicious use of
them, however, cannot be tolerated by those
desiring not to be conspicuous on the street,
but a limited amount, properly arranged,
will add tone to the hat or toaue.
VA brown straw hat shown above with a
gold braid facing will be popular. It has a
large bow in the front of brown ribbon,
and a large bunch of yellow and
golden brown chrysanthemums nnd foliage.
Velvet ribbons will be continued in use,
but they will not exceed an inch in width.
Satin ribbons with welted edges, gros grain
fish edged, gauze and plaid sarcenet rib
bons, are shown as novelties of their kind.
There is no doubt that this will be the
greatest flower season known, and some of
the artificial flowers even flatter nature in
their delicacy of structure and perfection of
coloring, and are exceedingly charming.
Ora Seaney.
WOMEN IN EVERY FIELD.
Some 4ro Blacksmiths, Some Are Lawyers,
Some Are Ministers, and Kono of Tbem
H&to Unsexed Themselves In Taking up
These Occupations Notable Examples.
IWElTTEIt FOB THE DISTAIOU
Let us have a respite in fashions not
that we are tired so early in the season, for
the novelty has not worn off the novelties
yet, neither has the subject been exhausted
nor have we. In Eider Haggard lan
guage, as soon expect a fish to weary of the
water or an eagle of the rushing air, as a
woman to weary in searching after, looking
at, or reading about the latest styles. But
we are continually accused of searching
after nothing else, having eyes for nothing
else, reading nothing else, and of missing or
disregarding the "sermons in stones, books
In the running brooks and good in every
thing" by the mad rush after fashiondom.
And then, on the other hand, if we do step
aside from this pursuit and give the bulk of
our attention to anvthing outside the witch
ing realty say to letters we are supposed
to become slovenly and unlovely literary
cranks, or unfeminine, unlovable and alto
gether undesirable wives or sweethearts.
Most men and some women seem to be
lieve that no woman can do anything be
sides trade at a counter, nurse a baby, or
stand before a mirror and still dress well
and be lady-like, notwithstanding such il
lustrious and dressy contradictions to this
unjust supposition as Mrs. Prank Leslie,
Mrs. John Sherwood, Ella Wheeler "Wil
cox, Kate Field, et al. Or if she learn a
trade, especially one which up to that time
has been monopolized by men, then she is
judged coarse, vulgar and unsexed.
OTHEB THINGS WOMEN ABE DOING.
How about this? Let us see what woman
is doing besides watching for that fruit of
the loorn blended and dyed to add richer
reflection to her bloom, or the polishing of
the diamond that is to flash in important
rivalry to her eyes; or, the death of the
flowers that are to yield her their perfume;
or the slaughter of the innocents that by
their plumage shall add piquancy to her
style.
Mrs. D. C. Crowly (Jennie June), the
eminent fashion editress, has been elected a
Vice President of the New York State
Forestry Association, whose object is to pre
serve the forests of the State, and especially
the Adirondack woods, from needless de
vastation. "Mrs. Crowly has had the honor
to be elected," etc., I believe the editors
usually put it. "Wherein lies the "honor"
to this gifted woman? Is it in being ac
corded the place to serve upon committee
witn sucn scnoiars ana gentlemen as
Charles Kendall Adams, President of Cor
nell; George "William Curtis, President of
the Board of Begents of the university;
Seth Low, President of Columbia College;
Bishop Doan, Bev. Dr. Storr, ex-President
Cleveland and Carl Schurz? Or was the
"honor" conferred by conceding to Mrs.
Crowly that her shapely head might contain
an idea not connected with "the latest New
York styles?"
OTHEB NOTED "VTOMEN.
Elizabeth Arcbard Conner tells us that
Mrs. May "Wheeler has become the manager
of Chicago then tries to be witty at the ex
pense of her sex by adding: "That news
association ought to be a great success." Of
course it will be. So will the State Forestry
Association and the "World's Fair for the
same reason.
Miss Ada Sweet, of Chicago, who made
so enviable a reputation as Pension Agent,
having disbursed annually between $5,000,
000 and 56,000,000 and accounted for every
farthing oi it, is the person who introduced
the ambulance system into that city.
Recognizing the need of this service, she
went to New York, looked into the local
system, consulted with Commissioners of
Charities and Corrections, then went home
to materialize her ideas. She collected
money enough from friends to build an am
bulance, then presented it to the city. The
result has been the establishment of an am
bulance corps, well equipped and alreadvof
great service.
Think you Miss Sweet unsexed herself by
not giving the execution of her idea to a
man, she to remain at home while he went
to New York to consult for her with other
men?
Speaking of Miss Sweet as Pension Agent
is a reminder of Miss Clara McKnlght, of
Ironton, O., who has passed a satisfactory
examination and been granted admittance
as a pension attorney. Miss McKnight is
only 18 years of age, the youngest pension
attorney in the United States, and is re
corded as being stylish and remarkably
pretty.
"WOJJEN in the liXyr.
"Women are finding a new employment in
serving legal papers. It is frequently an
almost impossible matter to serve a legal
paper where personal service is necessary;
bnt woman's tact has here, as elsewhere,
proven valuable, A lawyer remarks: "The
I
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JL Pretty Brown Straw.
most suspicious debtor will not suspect a
woman ot having clandestine designs against
him; and a well-dressed, neat, attractive
female can easily gain admittance where it
would be impossible for a man to enter."
"While in the legal field let us pause to ad
mire Esther McQnigly Slack Morton, "Wy
oming's woman judge, who had the nerve to
sentence her own husband to a month in
jail for coming home intoxicated. "Would
that more wives had such authority and
courage to enforce it! Mrs. Morton is
described as a "snowy-haired, dignified old
lady, with a hard stock ot common sense
and a matter-of-fact manner. She never
studied law, yet withal she has administered
it so well that in the few cases appealed from
her decision, her rulings have been affirmed,
by the higher court."
"We don't need a vote to be a power in
politics at least not in New York State, as
proven in the case of the ladies of Fredonia
causing the name of Judge Barker to be
withdrawn, and the defeat of Albert Haight,
candidatejor Judge of the Court of Appeals,
owing to their active campaign against him.
He is said to formerly have given some de
cisions which the women beuevea were un
just to their sex.
"WOMEN IN THE PULPIT.
In the theological world we have several
gifted representatives, notably Miss Carrie
J. Bartlett, of Kalamazoo, Mich., described
as being "particularly feminine in appear
ance and manner, always preaching with a
cluster of roses in her corsage. 25 or 26 years
of age, eloquent and beautiful." Before
entering the pulpit she was engaged for sev
eral years in newspaper work, being re
porter and assistant editor in Minneapolis
and Oshkosb. She claims to have gotten
her theological training in a newspaper
omce not just the very first ptace one.
would go to look for such training, by the
way.
The Bev. Anna H. Shaw, while address
ing a legislative body in Maryland a little
time back, afforded some amusement by a
well-deserved rebuke to a young member
who took the pains of showing his disrespect
of a woman speaker by occupying a frontseat
and blowing cigar smoke in her face while
she addressed the House. In the course of
her remarks Miss Shaw observed there were
people who objected to women appearing be
fore legislative bodies, but that it could not
be improper for a woman to come into the
presence of gentlemen; therefore this, senti
ment must be based upon the assumption
that some members of the Legislature were
not gentlemen and would not act as such.
As she spoke she looked steadily at the
smoking member and of course the eyes of
the whole assembly were turned in the same
direction. The young man soon found no
pleasure in smoking.
IN THE FIELD OF SCIENCE.
Mrs Henry Draper is one of our most dis
tinguished scientific womeu. It was her
habit during her husband's life to work
with him in the laboratory, assisting him in
those experiments in astronomical photog
raphy which enabled him in 1876 to an
nounce his discovery of oxygen in the sun.
Since her husband's death Mrs. Draper has
continued his labors, becoming both member
and correspondent of many learned socie
ties. She is described as a woman of many
accomplishments and social and personal
charms.
The three LL. D.'s, Miss Amelia B. Ed
wards, Marie Mitchell and Mrs. C."W. Dall,
are described as being sweet, womanly
women with none of the offensive strong
mindedness in appearance or manner, and
each tasteful in dress. Of women who have
patented useful inventions we have been in
structed by Miss Grundy, Jr., through the
medium ot these columns, they are "too nu
merous to mention." Of our so called trades
women, Mrs. Maria Longworth Stoner prob
ably ranks first. By her the Bookwood pot
teries of Cincinnati were established several
years ago to afford an artistic and lucrative
occupation to young girls and women com
pelled to work for a living. She spent much
money on the kilns, workshops and materi
als and in skilled labor from abroad. She
worked eight hours a day with her design
ers and modelers, superintending the mix
ing of Jthe clays and working of the kilns.
She is now rewarded by producing the most
artistic and creditable ceramic work in this
country, and which is said to bold its own
in technical particulars with the best En
glish and Continental faience.
Harper' Weekly says Miss Nellie Patter
son, of Connecticut, is "one of the prettiest
and most sensible girls of Mount Carmel,
and has just completed an apprenticeship
and is now earning her living as a full
fledged machinist; pronounced as clever
and efficient as any workman in the shop,
wnile her success nas been accomplished
without any sacrifice of womanliness."
There's the point!
Al.Ii SOBTS OF OCCUPATIONS.
A woman in California is a florist and
seed grower, having now five acres in seeds
and bulbs; and another woman out there is
a blacksmith and is chronicled as "working
atthe forge in a neat-fitting dress and a
mind-your-own-business air which brooks
no questioning." Of our "cattle queens"
who have amassed large fortunes bv giving
their personal supervision to ranches and
who travel through the country in special
coaches and Paris gowns, the newspapers
keep us well informed, likewise of
the movements of our array of professional
women, doctors, druggists, dentists and
like brainy ilk; but that our famous philan
thropist, Clara Barton, is fond of rifle
practice, and is a dead sure shot; and that
Frances "Willard rides a bicycle is not so
generally known. Have they "unsexed"
themselves? or do they lessen their power of
good by indulging in these so-called manly
sports?
It looks as if woman cannot have many
surprises in ambush lor future use; but the
old one, that she can do anything with head
or hands that man can do, and still act well,
dress well and remain a womanly woman,
will continue a never-dying surprise to
those who prefer to believe differently.
Meg.
EIGHTEEN STILES OP APS0NS.
Paris Wears Tbem All and the Batcher's
Boy Is aa Example,
Wide Awake;
"Would you believe, for instance, that
Paris wears 18 different styles of aprons,
and never by any chance mixes these aprons
up? From the dimmest era now lost in
obscurity, the Paris butcher-boy has worn a
uniform betokening the trade oi which he is
invariably a cheerful ornament. The apron
be wears is a most curious affair, and he
himself mnst be regarded as the aristocrat
of the apron-wearers, for he sports no less
than three aprons at once.
Two of these are apparently superfluous,
as tbey are rolled up, and fastened at each
side; the third is worn in front and held in
place, across the breast by a string made into
a peculiar knot at the back. "Whenever
you see this odd knot you may be assured a
butcher's apprentice has tied It. Its tying
is a profound secret.
rwsiTTXx von Tint DisraTcn.1
There Is a curious old French book, still
to be picked up about the stalls on the quays-
of Paris, which gives the letters of a father
to his daughter, and they are the advice of
a Gallic Chesterfield to the sex which would
profit by it most. Nowhere does its piquant
shrewdness betray more forcibly the trained
man of the world than in the words to the
daughter on her marriage: "To the world
you must be always your husband's wife;
but to your hnsband you must forever be his
mistress, to retain him."
That is the secret of love, life and beauty,
which so many have missed, and, failing to
keep it, ask wearily is life worth living?
The mistress in the poetio sense, the woman
beloved and idealized, who holds sway over
"a man's inmost fealty, reverence and desire,
knows little of winter, age or decay. Sh
keeps always some charm in reserve, has
some new delight to learn and disclose, some
trait of fresh and. sweet affection to detain
love at her side. Is there 'any sameness in
spring, in the new growth of grass along
the meadow sides, the pearling of white
clover in the sward, the gleam of blue
in violet-haunted corners? "Women should
and may have their renewals of freshness
and beauty, to suit with bright dancing
leaves and boughs, blossom-laden, flexile
and swaying in the wind. Treat yourselves
well, mesdames, and see what sort of face
looks back at you from the mirror.
BEGIN WITH THE SPBINO.
Early in the year secure such a thorough
ly good condition of nerves and blood as
will defy heat and depression. Now is the
time to begin a course of medication to
ward off wrinkles, freckles and sunburn in
their most disfiguring sort. The nurses ot
women's beauty are seven fresh air,
warmth, sunshine, rest, sleep, foo'd and
whatever stirs the blood joyously and fully,
be it exercise, love or enthusiasm. These
last may any of them be a dangerous stimu
lant, and over each one must write the
word "control." Sunshine one may have
even in the city, in these happy spring
moods of air, when night frosts purify it
and the first beams warm it.
Then women should turn out and keep to
the sunny side of the way, two hours or
more. In doors let the chosen seat be in the
sunny window, where the warm light draws
chill and distemper out of one's frame, and
charges it instead with life and stimulus.
If one would keep blonde locks bright, now
is the time in bleaching spring sunshine to
sit hour after hour and day after day in the
south windows, giving the hair and brain all
the latter can bear. If you would keep dark
hair Irom turning gray submit it to the same
treatment. Have the writing desk, the
easel, the type writer, the sewing machine or
the work-table set in the sunny window, and
submit yourself to the great developer ot
growth and color. If I can do nothing more
than to persuade my country women to make
friends with the sun my life is not without
avail.
THE PBOPZB DIET.
If the sun makes one ill, with giddiness
and headache, it is from vitiated blood and
disordered digestion, which needs prompt
attention. Diet will do much, but few or
der its changes to effect necessary good. Meat
three times a day for desk workers, with the
occasional orange or salad, is not right liv
ing. The old English use of vegetables
deserves to be followed In our time. It was
the corrective which saved the nation from
extinction with scurvy in its wholesale use
of salt provision and hearty meats. The
burghers were wise enough to bring cab
bages and onions from Holland, as is done
in Boston markets to-day, where you may
find a Dutch cabbage which has crossed the
Atlantic, of a solidity, flavor and freshness
which justifies paying three prices for it.
If you want color in your hair, and clear,
brilliant cheeks, keep the sulphur-yielding
vegetables on the table the year round. To
serve them in spring, follow the good Ger
man fashion of cooking them in earthen
jars in their own steam. Shut the cabbage,
onions or turnips in a stoneware pot in the
oven and leave them two or three hours.
They will be worth the attention of an epi
cure, having a tenderness, richness and high
flavor, albeit not a ranknes's, which will
place them in first flavor. Instead of hav
ing a boiled dinner once aweek, with its
healthy profusion of vegetables, make the
courses of rich roots, carrots, parsnips, tur
nips, the salads and brassica generally, a
Erincipal part of dinners and lunch, or the
earty American breakfast for which hard
working, early-sleeping people have a well
grounded esteem. Following the English
custom, we find that lettuce was a supper
dish, very sensibly, as it tends to excellent
sleep, better than chloral can give. Capers
in salad, boiled in oil and vinegar, are
capital restoratives for overdone people who
feel heart and lung failure imminent,
VIBTUE IN WATEB CBESS.
One would not miss the trace of eschalo;
rubbed on the meat or salad, for it has the
virtues of assafoetida in quieting nerves and
toning the stomach. "Water cress was be
lieved to restore the bloom to young ladies'
cheeks, which it still does most effectually
when they walk a mile or more to gather
them from country brooks. The family
which does not provide a bushel of cress for
its table in the course of the season, fails to
behind to its young people. None of these
things are to be forced upon one, but pro
vided so frequently and attractively that
they are a temptation not to be resisted.
The action ot water cress or any cress in
purifying depraved or weakened blood and
bringing brilliant color to the eyes and
complexion is traditional and ju3t as strong
as it ever wes.
If the overwrought and valued workers
who are sent South every spring to pick up
strength against summer could only have
good country air, a great deal of fresh water
cress, high-flavored oranges and delicate
catering in the way of salads, fresh fish and
daintv cookery, they might save on the pass
age money. Why should you depend on
doses of medicine, three or four tablespoon
fuls daily, when one can be so much more
thoroughly medicated by the food of which
he takes two or three pounds daily? "When
appetite fails for hearty meals and cereals,
it is time to take vegetables piquant and
relishing, which being largely water do not
clog the system, but rather work off its
humors. Unlv do not lose their vnlne hv
boiling most of the goodness out, in the
common way of cooking them.
CLEABINO UP THE COMPLEXION.
Even the nice girls complain of little red
spots and coarseness of their complexions,
with perhaps a sallow shading which may
look well in Mr. "William Chase's pictures
of black haired women in pink dresses, but
doesn't bear daylight so well in the flesh.
As they have averaged an inquiry every
week since last spring about the charcoal
and taraxacum which Is so effective in clear
ing coarse and bilious complexions, the di
rections are .repeated. If you head aches
dully, with dizziness, languor and'unsatis
factory complexion, buy a bottle of pow
dered charcoal, and a pint of fluid extract of
taraxacum, to which have the druggist add
a tablespoonful of mandrake extract, or
twice as much cascara to complete the al
terative effect. This should cost not over
$1 50 for all. Or you may dig up the whole
plant ot taraxacum, clean and boil it, in
earthenware, closely covered, using a peck
of the green plant with just water enough to
keep lr-m burning, say a pint, letting the
plants cook till very tender, and pressing
the juice from "them.
-to begin the hrit thing in the morning,
take one dessert spoonful of charcoal fornix well together.
V j . .v -...,' ..' -i ..tV VI. . - i. - - - . - '" . ..--.. .' !.... -vj-- -- .. .Jrr.Z-i .-. , . t&sal. 1
If there is troublesome acidity, and the
mouth tastes as if one had been using bad
words, take a teaspoonful of half charcoal
and half prepared chalk, as often as the un
pleasant taste returns. If the symptoms
are not soon relieved, take an old-fashioned
mixture as follows: One and one-half
ounces senna, 3 ounces each of the pulp of
French prunes and figs, G drams tamarinds,
i ounce rhubarb powder, 10 ounces
molasses and 40 drops oil of caraway. Boil
the fruit in the best cooking syrup gently,
till thick as honey, stir in the powders, ana
when cool add the oil of caraway, mixing
all thoroughly by rubbing with the back of
a spoon in a bowl, or with pestle in a mar
ble mortar. The dose of this not unpleasant
preparation is half a teaspoonful at night.
It is a medicine very kind to the complex
ion, and may well be taken two nights
before a party to clean the skin when one
wishes to look well.
If the careful mother desires her daughter
to keep a brilliant complexion, she must
not allow aloes given her in any form of
medicine, and doctors should be enjoined to
regard this caution. Very likely a tonlo
may be needed after a month of medication,
and for a complexion draught nothing is
much better than a decoction of wintergreen,
made by boiling one ounce of the herb in
two pints of water down to one, and strain
ing, taking two to four tahlespoonfuls three
times a day, just before meals. It promotes
the secretions and purifies the blood, while
assisting the appetite and digestive process.
SABSAPABILLA AND THE SKIN.
A very nice medicine for the skin and for
imparting liveliness to the limbs is this;
True sarsapariila root cut in slices, i
ounces; sassafras root, rasped, 2 ounces;
dandelion root,' 4 ounces; and 1 ounce
of licorice root infused in two quarts of
water for 21 hours. The water should be
filtered, if possible, and be just boiling
when poured over the roots, and kept in a
warm place just below the boiling point
closely covered. Boiling for the length of
time required to reduce the ordinary prepa
rations often renders the extract totally in
ert. This recipe is especially valuable from
the sarsapanlla, which has a particular
action on the skin, without producing
dangerous perspiration. Bnt medicines for
the blood should never be taken without
careful bathing and diet fit the immediate
effect will be an eruption, which may be
weeks in disappearing.
As warm weatner comes, it is a good
thing to take a vapor bath once a week; or,
as a substitute, a hot water bath, warm
enough to start perspiration freely. Get
right into a clean night gown and blankets
and sweat and sleep anhour or two. Sponge
off with a pint of sea water, made with the
sea salt sold by druggists, and half a pint
of alcohol or cologne; dress in thin flannels
and silk underwear, and there will be little
danger of taking cold. Spring languor can
be relieved in this way and the blood im
proved, AN OILY FACE.
If the face is oily and blackheads immi
nent, take charcoal and taraxacum with a
purgative once a week, avoiding aloes or
calomel. A tablespoonful of castor oil
taken with half as much lemon juice is a
kind medicine in this case, and is espe
cially valuable to relieve oppression of the
chest and colds.
For greasy noses with large pores, apply
borax dissolved in camphor, lavender or
cologne as frequently as possible. Also
wring a linen cloth or folds of lint from hot
water with any good soap in it, and apply
to the face four or five minutes. Do not
rinse, but wipe with a soft warm towel, and
immedia'tely dust with fine chalk while the
face is fresh from washing, and wipe lightly
with damp lint ora baby brush. For red
noses or red faces, apply nightly a plaster
of fine chalk mixed with violet glycerine to
a thick cream, letting it remain..
Shible'y Dabe.
MB, CLEVELAND'S WEIGBT.
The Ex-President Might Reduce It by Doing
ns millionaires Do.
Bl&kely Hall In Brooklyn Eagle.
The wide disousslon aroused by the news
of Mr. Cleveland's rapidly increasing
weight has turned attention to the generaj
subject of reducing flesh by means of the
different systems. There, is no exaggeration
about the ex-President's condition. I have
seen him many times recently, and on every
occasion the increase in fat was noticeable.
Some of the ideas expressed by so-called ex
perts concerning superfluous flesh are rot,
pure and simple. No man who sleeps six
and a half or seven hours, takes a cold
bath, eats his breakfast and gets to his
office by 8 or 8:30 in the morning will
have to consult physicians abouthis weight.
Instances of fat millionaires are unknown.
This is because they are obliged to be up
and watching their millions while tho fat
men are still lounging in bed.
All of which is a more or less roundabout
way of saying that if Mr. Cleveland would
get up early, walk to his office, eat a
light luncheon and walk uptown again he
would soon get rid of the extra weight.
Perhaps the most astounding statement
made was that by a well-known physician
of New York, who said, in the course of an
interview, that "eating had nothing to do
with the increase of weight" One might as
well say that fuel has nothing to do with a
fire. "When they put prisonerson a bread
and water diet the falling off in weight is
never less than six pounds in a week, and
it has been shown in prison statistics to
largely exceed that amount. Yet bread
and water are both fattening.
A PIANIST'S ECCENTEICITIES.
Hani Ton Buelow Doesn't Like Germans
Iiotcs a Chance of TIos.
Hans Von Buelow, whose name has lately
been made familiar to Pittsburgers by the
newspapers and bills in the windows, al
though a German himself, detests Germans.
The St. Louis Republic says: Prof. Kun
kel, of St. Louis, called on Von Buelow
when he was here some 14 odd years ago and
explained what he had done to make the
engagement here a success. Mr. Buelow
thanked him cordially and chatted affably
for a while until he turned upon Kunkel
and asked: "By the way, are you Ger
man?" "Certainly," answered Kunkel.
"Then I don't want to have anything
further to do with you," and walked off
leaving the St. Louisan dumb with amaze
ment. It is related that while professor of a lead
ing European conservatrory Von Buelow
used to wear a different colored tie every
day of the week, much to the amusement of
the scholars. He always wore the same
color on the same day ot the week, too, and
never made a mistake. Mrs. Von Buelow,
the pianist's mother, is reported to have ex
pressed her wonder how anyone could get
along with her Hans. She never could.
SPEING LTJXUEIES WON'T MIX.
A Brooklyn Man Takrs Borlt Beer and Ice
Cream nnd Tben Dies.
A Brooklyn confectioner met his death,
according to the Citizen, ia this way:
"When bock beer blossomed on the saloon
sign boards this spring, he dropped in next
door to try it He liked it and soon took it
regularly. One evening after having drank
considerable bock beer he left the place and
took home with him a pint of ice cream.
He ate.it before retiring, and during the
night be was taken very sick. "When his
wile asked him if she should send for a
physician he told her he would be all right
by morning, when she went to call him in
the morning he waa dead. It
is verv evi
dent that boek heer and ip.A rmam tin not
BOGUS LOED.
Light Opera in the Churches and Science
in Social Circles.
PBOFIT
POSING
MODEL
lCOBBESFOroZNCX OT TRX DlSrJLTCHj
New Yoek, April 26.
Y ladies of wealth
and pleasure go driv
ing in these brilliant
spring days. The
howling swells have
got out their tally-ho
coaches, and the tea
parties out at the
Clairmont - on - the -
Hudson have begun.
1 chanced to be stroll-
rying along the piazzas
the other afternoon.
watching the golden river sparkle in the
sun, when the fashionable pageant arrived
with a swoop and took possession of the
neighborhood. The tootle of the horns, the
clanking of silver harnesses, the sharp
cracking of whips and the silvery laughter
of p"retty women formed rare and exciting
harmony.
The descent of such a bevy of perfectly
costumed women from their aerial perches
was, besides, a splendid sight, the colors,
grace and symmetry of the picture being all
that the most hypercritical would demand.
As they rustled and shimmered about I
noted that one pluk, dreamy-eyed little
girl, who clutched a pretty china teapot in
her arms, was a great favorite with the en.
The MatcuUne Get-Up.
tire company. They clustered around her,
embracing her and giggling in the fashion
of very young women when they are en
deavoring to present a humorous picture of
mock devotion.
"Oh, I do adore you, Sylvia," cried an
ardent blonde, attempting to wind her arms
about the neck of the little girl with the
teapot.
THE PBECI0U3 TEA.
"But ba careful, Marie," answered the
other. "Don't you see yon are spilling the
tea?"
At this there was a burst of laughter,
followed by more remarks of slight meaning
but much insinuation. Presently an eager
eyed young lady came running up with a
tray full of tiny teacups.
"Here they are, girt)," she cried, deposit
ing the tray on a table.
A young man started up and asked if they
were not going to wait for the hot' tea. He
was told that everyone was to take a cold
cup first. Then he went away and the girls
drank silently and happily, their eyes
gleaming over the1 rims of their cups and
their free hands seeming to twist with de
light. The daywas warm, and in addition to
the oaor of violets that stole my way, I de
tected the unmistakable fragrance of the in
vigorating rye when a little sugar and the
oil of lemon peel are added. These were
cocktail girls.
It is the unexpected that happens in
staid as well as frivolous matters. It was
thought several years ago that the churches
had reached the end in secular music in
their choirs. But no. Next season the in
tention is to make" some of the choirs more
than ever the attractive feature in the fash
ionable churches. Entire operatic passages
will be given in the choirs, choice being
made of the heroic, lyric and pastoral. Fcr
instance, the duo between Baoul and Valen
tine from the "Huguenots," the solo from
"Orpheus," the hymn to the evening star
from "Tanhauser, the death scene irom
"Lucia" and the episode between John of
Leyden and his mother from the "Prophet."
Those selections will be sung by competent
Be Was a Bit Short.
artists and the effect will be greatly en
hanced by the dimly lighted auditorium
with its solemn accessories. The crowds
will fill the churches, and the doors will be
kept locked until the entire services are
ended, thus giving the clergy an oppor
tunity to preach at the people. The princi
ple is: "you may hear the fine musio but
you must pay ior it by listening to my ser
mon." TVEABING MEN'S AFPABEL:
The latest masculinity affected bv the
most alert of the society girls consists of
shirt, collars,' scarfs and waistcoats pre
cisely of the same sort as worn by the men.
For theater wear at night a black waistcoat,
with three buttons, displaying the largest
possible expanse of snowy shirt bosom is
worn, and the high collar and white bow
are an exact reflection of the gleaming and
starchy articles that have so long formed the
mainstay of full-dressed masculinity. An
old broker, who seldom notices how his
pretty daughters dress, chanced to be at the
theater on a recent night with an old club
crony, and in looking about the house he
c tuglit sight of his two girls in a box party.
They both wore the masculine get-up and
the broker strained his eyes to make out
what it all meant
He fumbled in bis pocket and secured a
25-cent piece, which, he hastily Jammed iatoj
JJV1
muk sxmc
K9W
the opera glass machine in front of him.
Securing the glass he leveled it with a great
exhibition of agitation upon the box wherein
his daughters sat and gazed long and hard.
Then turning to his companion he begged
him to look and tell him what his girls had
on. The, other old fellow peered throagh
the glasses and said:. "It's that devilish old
dress reform business, Charlie. They are
trying to get all the girls up like men now,
you know, and yours have caught the
fever."
The broker took a card from his pocket
and scribbled something on the back. Sum
moning an usher he directed him to hand it
to his daughters in the box. It said: "Stand
up and let me see if you have on trousers."
'The girls received the card and read it
Then looking about the house they caught
their father's anxious eye, smiled reassur
ingly at him, and stood upright for him to
satisfy himself that the lower half of them
still retained the appearance of modest
womanhood. The old man fell back re
lieved and in all sincerity told his friend
that he thanked heaven his girls were only
half fools.
A LADT SELLING DIAMONDS.
A odd fact in New York trade is that the
'best known seller of diamonds is a woman.
Members of her sex buy all sorts of
precious stones from her on the installment
plan. There are a lot of different ways oi
managing it, and she is apparently mis'tress
of most of them. Her acquaintance among
shoppers is enormous. It is interesting to
see her female customers drive bargains
with her. "When they decide on a
certain ring or bit of jewelry the
war begins. The dealer leans both her
elbows on one side of the showcase and the
customer leans hers on the other. The
trinket in dispute lies between them. They
start in at widely diverging prices and fence
toward a neutral ground. Men may come
and men may go in the shop, but the dis
cussion proceeds with uninterrupted energy.
sometimes for an hour at a time. Appa
rently the merchant enjoys the mental
stimulus of this sort ot selling; but sbe
usually wears a well satisfied smile after the
bargain is over.
Danger in elevators? A liability to fall,
you mean? Ob, no; only liability to flirt.
These hoisting boxes, with their mirrowed
sides, afford excellent opportunity for the
exchange of glances. And would yon think
it, the little varmint who runs the thing
acts as a sort of love's messenger.
"Miss Edith gone up yet?" "No; she
goes up about 6." "Then I'll wait"
"Mr. De Frills gone up yet?" "No; he
goes up about 430." "Well, hand him this
aote, piease."
""Who was that stunning lady who got off
at the fourth?" "Mrs. Cynthia Delaporte."
"Heal or grass?" "Grass." "Tell her who
I am some day."
"Wasn't he charming, girls? "Who is he,
"William?"' "Oh, that's the son of the rich
banker, Vermillion." "Perfectly delightful
fellow. Tell him we said so tell him we
rave about him, "William."
"What time will Dr. Goldenrod go up?"
"Late this evening; he's to dine out"
"Tell him I asked. Tell him who I am
whether he asks or not, William." "Yes,
ma'am."
Who says elevators are not useful for
more purposes than that for which they
were invented? Bnt stick a pin here, ladies
and gentlemen of the world of frivolty: The
inspection which guarantees the mechanical
salety has no reference to morals.
CAMK TO GBIKF AT LAST.
A certain young Englishman of faultless
address and charming manners, who has
been a great favorite in society here for sev
eral weeks past, allowed his prestige to es
cape by a singularly foolish action. He
conducted a girl and a chaperone to the
theater, and afterward took them to a fash
ionable restaurant for supper. An the end
of the repast he was excused for a moment
and went out to the cashier.
"How d'ye do," he said, with a great
showing of nonchalance. "I say, don't you
know, I've got two ladies here to supper,
and I'm a bit short Just put it down to
my account"
The cashier looked at the Englishman scru-
tfnizingly, and declined to trust him.
"You have nearly 100 down to your ac
count now," said he, "and the orders are
that there must be a payment before any
thing more is charged to you."
Alter considerable parleying the English
man offered an opera glass as security and it
was accepted. Then he returned smilingly
to his friends. A few days later the owner
of the opera class received a note irom the
keeper ot the restaurant saying that such an
article, engraved with her name, was in his
possession, and stating by what nieuis it
came there. The young lady, who had be
lieved the Englishman the younger son of a
lord as he represented, killed the tender sen
timent that was beginning to bud for him in
her heart, and wrote him a note asking him
to return at once the various valuable books
she had loaned to him; also the ring that he
had wheedled from her in an indiscreet mo
ment of tenderness. None of these articles
was forthcoming, and it has just been learned
that the adventurer has departed westward,
leaving a stack of unpaid bills, besides sev
eral bunches of worthless notes- He played
a fairly capable game, but tripped at last
over a very small obstacle.
SCIENCE AND SOCIETY.
It is often necessary to go abroad in order
find out what is going on in your own house.
The truth of this ancient apothegm is
strikingly illustrated by reading ia a French
journal that at large dinner parties In New
York now the tables are lighted by electric
lights hidden in shrubbery or under fern
leaves. At times the lights are not suffi
ciently tempered by the foliage, and the un
fortunate guest must sit with an Edison
burner streaming in hi3 or her face during
the entire dinner. Not very pleasant But
vive la science! The same journal predicts
that the barbarous Americans will ere long
introduce Edison's phonographs at dinner
parties in order that the guests may listen
to Patti as rendered in Punchinello tones.
Perhaps. That Americans have been "bar
barous" enough to invite a party of friends
to dinner, and thea photograph them by
flash light is a fact. Society beauties will
not relish this procedure, for generally
speaking these photographs transform the
most beautiful faces into absolute scare
crows. A short time ago a well-known merchant
died, leaving his wife and daughter unex
pectedly penniless. It was at once neces
sary to do something to make both ends
meet, and the girl started out to find what
sbe could do. inside of a montn she had
decided that she could do nothing. Finally
it struck her that she night be of some use
as an artist's model. Of course she would
never consent to posing as she had heard
models did, but she thought her face, which
was exceptionally pretty, might be utilized
to her profit
IMMOBTALIZED IN SECTIONS.
She accordingly went the rounds of the
studios ot all the figure painters and was a
success from the start without being com
pelled to forfeit her self-respect in the least
One artist has already copied her hair: an
other has made the whole head; and still an
other has copied her in evening dress for a
picture that he will send to Paris. The odd
est compliment that the young lady has
been paid, however, is by a sculptor. This
gentleman was in the studio of a painterone
alternoon complaining that it was impossi
ble for him to get the model of a perfect
foot for his latest work. The painter at
once said:
"I have a model coming to me now, and I
know she has small feet, but I can't say just
bow well proportioned they are. She is a
very refined and sensitive girl and I am not
sure if she would consent to having her foot
copied, but I'll ask her."
After great delioeration the young model
consented to having her foot done in marble,
and it was modeled last week. The sculptor
declares that it will be by far the most beau
tiful section of his statue. This is the first
case on record, I" believe, of a girl being im
mortalized in sections. During the ap
proaching summer her head will be in Paris
and her pretty feet in New York.
Claba Belle.
It's Urnllbr to flag.
It is a fine, Deal thy sign to see so' many
young men studying the art of singing for,
apart from the pleasure it gives to the ear,
it strengthens the lungs and is the enemy of
jjiiiiuuviua suu vuiuojapuoB.
OMENS IN A SNEEZE.
Curious Superstitions of tho Past
That Linger to This Day.
WITH BOMB A SIGK OF HEALTH.
Origin of the Saving Exclamations That
Follow lh9 Explosion.
BELIEFS AM05G SAYAGE PEOPLES
twamur voa rax dispatch-.!
The whole civilized world has just gotten
through sneezing. It was not such a terribls
epidemic as cholera, but nevertheless it left
behind Its victims by the score, and even
hundreds. In other days, and even now, in
some parts of the world, this would b
singled out as a mark of divine wrath. Tfcera
is a Jewish legend from the Talmud that be
fore the time of the patriarch Jacob men
never sneezed but once, and then they died.
He was the first to die without sneezing,
and hence all men are commanded to notiea
a sneeze as having been the earliest signal
of death. It is certain that it has always
been regarded as ominous, and many still,
say that it heralds a cold when yon sneeze.
The ancient Greeks and Romans consid
ered it ominous. It was auspicious when
heard to the right, but an unlucky omen
when to the left. Aristotle makes a sneeze
unlucky from night to morning, but a good
omen from morning to night, during the
daytime. Zenophon, in his "Anabasis,"
tells us that, while haranguing his troops,
aud just as he was claiming the protection
of the gods for a righteous cause, someone
sneezed. The soldiers immediately con
cluded that it was a good omen, and ex
claiming : ""We have reason to -hope for our
preservation," addressed their hymns to
Jupiter, who bad given them so favorable a
sign. Homer, long before this, had alluded
to the favorable omen:
Telemacbus tben sneezed alosd;
Constrain'd his nostril, echoed through the
crowd.
The smiling Queen the happy omen bless'd.
An old author says that the ancients, if
tbey sneezed while putting on their shoes,
immediately went to bed again. If any one
sneezed after dinner, a dish was brought
back and tasted by each one at the table, to
avert disaster.
A BUDDHIST TBADITI02T.
This idea of the ominous character of a
sneeze led in remote ages to a custom yet
prevalent in many parts of the world that
of making some sort of saving exclamation
when anvone sneezes. Probably the oldest
notice of this custom is preserved in an
ancient Buddhist tradition: "One day
Buddha, while seated in the midst ot a
large congregation of disciples, to whom he
was preaching the law, chanced to sneeze.
Thereupon tbe priests, exclaiming, 'May
the blessed Lord live; may the welcome one
live!' made a loud noise and seri
ously interrupted the discourse. Ac
cordingly Bnddha addressed them
as follows: 'Tell me, priests, when
a person sneezes, if the bystanders say 'may
you live! will he live the longer or die
the sooner for it? 'Certainly not, Lord.'
'Then, if anyone sneeze, you are not to say
to him, "3Iay you livel" and if any of you
shall sav it.'let him be guilty of a trans
gression.' From that time forth, when the
priests sneezed, and the bystanders ex
claimed, "May you live, sirs,' the priests,
fearful of transgressing, held their peace.
People took offense at this, and said: '"What
do these priests of Sakya mean by not utter
ing a word when we say 'May you liva
longl' 'The matter came to Buddha's ears.
and he gave them permission to say "Long
life to youl'"
AMONG THE OLD HOiTANS.
The Romans were particularly careful
about the auguries attached to sneezing.
Tiberius, when he sneezed during a chariot
ride in the streets, was saluted with loud
cries of "Long live the Emperor." Cicero,
it is said, sneezed when at the theater, when
the people, Senators and all, rose to their
feet and said, "Jove bless you." Cssar is
said to have finally decided to cross the
Bubicon by a lucky sneeze. It was said that
Cupid sneezed whenever a beautiful girl
was born. It was therefore the greatest com
pliment that a sighing lover could pay his
mistress for him to say : "Love has sneezed
for you I"
Cath'olie authorities have referred the
origin of the cutom to an ordinance of
Pope Gregory, "who was said to have in
stituted a short benediction to be used on
such occasions at a time when, during a
pestilence, the crisis was attended by sneez
ing and in most cases followed by death."
There is still respect paid to a sneeze at the
Vatican, if we may believe the following
anecdote: A eentlcman bad been presented
with his little son toJSis Holiness the Pope.
He wished to secure a medal for the lad,
and for this purpose attended a meeting of
the Cardinals. The boy happened to sneeze,
when all the Cardinals rose and saluted
him. Pleased with this he took occasion to
sneeze again and a&ain, until his father was
forced to take him away.
ET MEREIE OLD EXOLASD.
An old rhyme records the various omens
concerning sneezing, current in England ft
century ago:
To sneeze on Monday hastens anger,
Tuesday, kiss a stranger,
Friday. Eire a gift,
Saturday, receive a gift.
Sunday, before voa break your fast,
You'll see your true lore before a week's past."
The Germans, like the Bomans, think It
an ill-omen to sneeze while yon are putting
your shoes on. A very singular notion cur
rent in one part of Germany Is that if the
husband sneeze before getting up iu the
morning he must lie down again for three
hours, or the wife will have tne mastery for
a whole week. It is also said that it is a
sign of the truth of yourwords if anyone
sneezes when you are telling anything. Ia
Esthonia, if two wives sneeze at the same
time, it is said to bean indication that their
children will be sons; if their husbands, then
daughters will comprise their families.
In Holland it was formerly said that if no
one said "God bless yon" when you sneezed,
witches would soon harm you. Shetland
ers have a curious way of prognosticating
the weather by observing persons when
sneezing. Italians wish some favorable
thing when anyone sneezes. The Siamese
say that the judges in tbe lower regions re
cord the sins of men in huge ledgers, and
when Frazommappatur, the Chief Judge,
examines this, and comes to the page where
the day when each man shall die is recorded,
that man sneezes and hence sneezing is a
bad omen.
SSEEZISQ AMONG SAVAGES.
Many savages have similar notions about
sneezing. Zulus think it a sign of demonia
cal possession. "When De Soto, in 1542, in
terviewed the Cacique Guachoya, that po
tentate happened to sneeze. All the attend
ants stretched out their arms and cried out
such phrases as "May the sun be with you."
Savages of a certain African country have a
most curious way of greeting a sneeze Irom
their Sovereign's royal nose. They imme
diately turn their backs to him and slap the
right thigh heartily.
A New Zealand priest names a child by
repeating his stock of names until it
sneezes, thereby indicating its choice.
The reference due to a sneeze is not en
tirely out of date. A lady in Chicago re
cently found that some of her scholars in
Sunday school were in the habit of saying
"God bless you" when anyone sneezed, and
it is said that nereditary superstition makes
the negro fear to sneeze, and that they teach
their children to avoid tbe act. Our German
friend never fail to say'Gesundheit" when
a compauion sneezes. We say a thin" is "net
to be sneezed at," probably meaning that it
is not to be sniffed at contemptuously al-
t?gVomeureler,lhe a7in'' to Perversion
of the Trench word meprise fn!nt..
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