SPRING FAKCIES IK WKAPS.
Bleb Sfaeolderta Grace Everything That's
Kerr and Rrjnrenate Everything Thet'a
Old Something Gorceons In MoOs and
Dainty In Shawl.
iwkitten ron Tin: cisfatch.1
THE weather so far
this month has been
more suggestive of
wraps than of lace
robes, summer silks,
the very novel line of
new ginghams or even
the all wool snitings
for spring wear, with
which onr counters
are already laden so
much in advance of
the season, that they
will have lost much of the charm of newness,
and be as a twice told tale before the weather
permits their adoption.
But about wraps. The very newest and
altogether "nobbiest," as a man would say,
is the blazer. It comes made of a beautiful
fine cloth, known among dealers by the
name of Wales, in two twills or stripes
designated narrow wales and wide wales.
The blazer is jacket-cut without darts or
Test, and has what is termed a shawl collar
of the rolliag persuasion, quite broad about
the neck, but growing beautifully less as it
nears the termination of the jacket, which
is tailor-bound. The ahsence ot" the vest is
in itself a recommendation, since it affords
the displar of a handsome dress waist, elab
orate habit or gay fedora, instead of con
cealing, crushing, and of course in time, de
stroying the same as do the closely buttoned
jackets.
HIGH SHOULDERS POPULAR.
All wraps whether jacket, dolman, cloak,
mantle or any of the numerous capes, are
the present season cut with high shoulders
and the piquant effect of this style seems to
be rightly understood and fully appreciated
since so prevalent. An elegant mantle in
armure-regence silk, short at the back and
fitted quite close, Ironts square cut and
reaching nearly to the knees, is trimmed
around the hitrh collar and over the shoul
ders with an elaborate passementerie. A
heavy fall of lace finishes the edge beaded
with passem tterie in long points from
which dpeud a crocheted pendant dropping
over 'he lace frilL
A In re of a wrap and a wrap diflers from
a mantle in that it is smaller in cut is of
the heViest faille
franchise, has Ma.
o.
rie Antoinette col
lar, corded net
shoulders, which,
bv the way, is a
right new feature,
pass erne n tei ie
trimming and bot
tom finish of deep
lace. Many of
these wraps arc fin
ished with corded
fringe or the newer
grass fringe, which
carries its own
beading in passe
menterie, the pret-
t!i rTncinna Iwinif
&r-v
in leaf or broche ji
figure.
The close-but-tonedjacket,
which
like the seaUkin
coat and the poor
we have always
with us, is given
quite the appear
ance of new birth
by the high shoul
der effect. Perfec
tion in this line of
wraps.it should go
One of the Spring
isioaKS.
without telling, depends upon the fit and
finish, since there are no trimmines to con
ceal such detects. The principal material
used in the manufacture of these garments is
the diagonal, corkscrew, wales or cheveron
cloth.
CAPES IK ALL STTLES.
Capes in all styles still obtain, from the
familiar coachman style with capes "too
numerous to mention" to the newest and
prettiest wonder if we don't always think
the latest thing out the prettiest the ac
cordion pleated with deep yoke and collar
band embroidered or braided in silk, black
or colors, jet, and yes, actually, tinsel 1 To
paraphraze, the trail of the tinsel is over all,
even for street display a right which it
would be in better taste to relegate to Bar
nnm exclusively.
The newmarket should now be called the
oldmarfcet but by any name it would be as
serviceable and able to hold its own among
utility wraps. It makes its bow the present
season just enough changed to deceive the
unwary. Most oi these coats now have a
loose front, with cord and tassels knotted
carelessly in pretense of holding the slight
fullness in place, but in reality for the or
namental effect. There is less fullness in
the back of skirt and less curve below the
waist line than formerly since there is no
bustle to be accommodated. A pleat is laid
at each side seam to egualize the lullness of
the skirt, but pressed flat, allowing a slight
spring at the bottom only. The sleeves of
the present newmarket are large, either cut
a la Bishop, gathered with and falling over
deep cuffs, or cut square at the elbow over
a close uuder-sleeve, or, with long sleeves
reaching quite to the foot of the garment.
AX EBA OP SHAWLS.
It haB been premised that shawls will be
much more worn than for some time pat.
Of course, the standard Paisley and India
have always been in vogue for elderly
ladies, but this popularity is on the in
crease ; and certain it is, they are suitable
and convenient wraps. But the new shawls
designed tor younger women are pretty little
fringed affairs, with borders in rosebud and
other flower designs, and come in all shades,
with borders ol different widths, some quite
elaborately executed in Persian colors, with
a large sprinkling of tinsel. These shawls.
when folded scan-style, are to be quite a
pretty addition to bordered spring robes.
For opera wraps or any evening wear, the
popular material continues plushor velvet,
either plain or broche, though there are
many newer and costlier fabrics, among
which are the lich silk brocades, Persian
and Venetian, the very names being sugges
tive of elegance. The splendid eflect of
these stuffs is dne to the Oriental colors, in
termixed with tinsel. A popular and very
dressy cut for these cloaks is in the form of
a jacket at the back, long loose fronts open
ing over a Louis XIV. vest, with flowing
sleeves, the lining o: Ueeves and garment
throughout to be of satin in a pretty con
trasting or harmonizing color, and the trim
ming of Oriental galoon.with metallic effect.
Or, if cut ot white matelesse or silver or
gold brocades, let the trimming be of the
new white angora wool fringe, which has its
beading in cord passementerie or corded net.
MUFFS PGE THE SmiNO TIME.
I think a tew hints on muffs apropos in
En article on wraps, especially since they
Xui? '111
TWvST
'l;fflKfflv..
i H i
,,wMwA Hi
m
j are at present receiving more consideration
than at any time previous, no louei mis
sprinrr will be considered complete without
the adjunct of a muff. Not the heavy, hot
affairs of fur. appropriate to seal and other
furry wraps, but little, wee, ornamental
thintrs. sometimes of cloth to match a
particular snit. but oftener of black, manu
Pictured by deft fingers at home,of the new
regence silk, and decorated with ribbons
and lace as fancy dictates, for which we
hare license ad libitum. Ko doubt a little
later, when flowers are blooming upon
spring headwear, a bunch of gay
flowers amon the lace will be
nrimisslnblp. which enlivening- acees.
Eorv mar assist in attracting the
attention of the obdurate street car driver,
when waved franticallv aloft, in a manner
familiar to us all. bnt which, of course, will
not be as well calculated to make a shelf for
bundles piled chiu high, a use commonly
and inelegantly made ot them. A muff is
only a pretty accessory to an elegant toilet
wnen rientiy carried; men it gives ra ""
grace to the wearer; but when held down
ward at arm's length, or hugged to the
breast with arms akimbo or in any way to
best support a mountain of packages, any
thing but grace is the effect.
COMMON SENSE IN SELECTIONS.
And now a few words in regard to the
selection of wraps. The wearer must be
governed by her own individuality as re
gards color, material and style. There are
fashions in plenty for us all. Let the
woman of ample dimensions avoid light
colors and short wraps. Long wraps are
most becoming to stout women, especially
those that do not define the figure too closely
and are cut in straight, slender breadths.
Short iackets diviae the length of the figure
and give the appearance ot breadth. Short
women should avoid capes, as the effect
would be to dwarf them. Light colors make
the thin woman appear stouter, etc., etc,
and yet we would almost have to trepan
some people to get these facts into their
heads. Meg.
BEADTT THAT IS HIDDEN.
Dainty nnd Ilnndsome Thine In Underwear,
Without Which No Lady Is Well Dressed
A Good Word for the Col set Cheap
Boots nnd bilks.
tWKITTEN FOB THE DIBrATCTI.l
HEBE is no use
in pretending that
the question of
dress is a frivolous
or an idle one.
Every woman, if
she means to fill
her own place in
the world, is bound
to make the most
of herself and to
keep on doing it
as long as she
lives. But how?
To begin with,
every style, every
degree, every caprice of costume must
be founded upon personal cleanliness.
The well-dressed woman must be
not many hours from herbath, and
must carry about her that atmosphere
of freshness so obvious and character
istic of the upper classes in England; "well
groomed" they call themselves, and a young
Englishman, whatever else you may say of
him, does suggest the idea of buckets of
water, sponges, towels, combs and brushes.
Xext to the bath comes lingerie, and
again I say, no woman, whatever the fabric
of her outer dress may be, as well dressed,
or dressed as she should be, unless she has
dainty underclpthing. "Dainty" does not
always mean expensive, and one of the very
daintiest outfits of linen'that I ever saw was
made for herself by a young girl of small
means but great refinement, alout to be
married. The only expense in the whole
matter was that she had used cambric in
stead of that stout cotton fabric which in
Hew York is called "muslin," and which,
although a few cents in tne vara cheaper
in the yard
than cambric,
made dainty.
is utterly incapable of being
Well, not to enter into particulars, my
little bride had crocheted and tatted and
netted and knitted the greatest variety of
trimmings, and had run little blue ribbons
in at the neck and sleeves and frills, and
had embroidered a big monogram on every
thing, and in some places had appliqued
sprigs and wreaths of French embroidery,
and in fact had quite unconsciously to her
self written the word lady over the whole
business, until it seemed to me almost a lib
erty to be turning over and admiring such
personal matters.
HOW SHE ECONOMIZED.
The dear child had hardly half a dozen
gowns in her trousseau, and none of those at
all expensive; but although she had not
made them, she had contrived them, and
each one told, and would do its whole duty
and always look appropriate to the occasion.
Two dresses were planned to be made into
one alter a year or two, and would then be
more effective than either could be alone,
and a sumptuous evening dress with a court
train and low body could, by detaching the
train nnd substituting a high bodice, be
worn in the street or at a reception. This
bride was destined to that hardest o posi
tions for a woman that of one who wishes
and is reauired to dress well upon small
means. She lived in the world, and among
people richer than herself.
But again, it is not every women who,
lacking money, has skill or time to make
pretty things lor herself, and to such I would
say : Don't sink down into feeline that you
don't caret Do the very best you cau with
the means at your command, and keep on
trying to do better.
One article of underwear deserves especial
notice, and that is the corset. A certain
class of reformers have bent their energies
more or less for many years to the destruc
tion and exile ot thin "means of grace,"
and with some success. A hideous
garment, or, rather, an agglomeration
of garments, knotvn as" a "dress re
form" or a "combination," has been
invented, and a large class of brave and
determined women have worn them, and
Eome continue to wear them, but whence
the satis action they seem to derive and the
benevolent wish to induce everybody else to
follow their example, I never could under
stand. They certainly lose in appearance,
lor I don't think the most rabid reformer
can really prefer the bulky waists, the flat
busts aud the queer look as it the woman
and her clothes were walking in opposite
directions, or us if the house were on fire
and she had thrown some shapeless wrapper
over her nightdress.
COMMON &ENSE AND THE CORSET.
Of course, everybody concedes, in these
days of hygiene and common sense, that a
corset should never be worn tight enough to
hinder respiration, even under violent exer
cise. It should never make one feel uncom
fortable to throw one's self upon a lounge in
the daytime, nor should it be a relief to take
THE
it off at night. I should be simply, as the
old-fashioned name implies, a "stay" to the
body, holding it in comely form and making
a smooth, harmonious surface over which to
fit the gown. Don't buv poor ones. If you
have a naturally good figure a cheap corset
won't fit you; if you have a poor figure no
dressmaker can make it better unless you
give her a good corset to fit over. Leave
everything under $3 to the dress reformers.
Acaprice of fashion in these later years
has suggested underclothing and corsets of
various tints and fabrics, culminating in
black silk. During one of my visits to
Paris I allowed myself to be persuaded into
buying some sets of black silk raiment, in
cluding a corset, but I did- so merely to se
cure a memento of a vagary ol the mode
sure soon to pass awav; for however pretty
and piquant rose, or blue, or scarlet, or
black may be in contrast with a soft, white
neck and arms, nothing satisfies the eye, or
soothes the conscience of good taste, like
creamy white in cambric and lace and em
broidery. One, however, must here make
an exception in the matter ot hose, which
should, to my mind, never be white, unless
in harmony with some especial costume.
don't but: cheap boots.
Boots, again, are a matter where one may
not judiciously economize. Bo your foot
pretty or ugly, be sure you will spoil it both
as to appearance and feeling by wearing
cheap, and, therelore, ill-fitting boots. If
you have slippers let them be chronio in
valids, never leaving the bedroom! It is
very nice and comfortable to have a pair to
slip into as you go to your bath and ward
robe, or sit at "your toilet table at night, hut
there ends their appropriate use.
So having disposed of what may be called
the confidential portion of a woman's toilet,
let us consider those "outward and visible
signs" by which the world will judge wheth
er she is well dressed or not.
As to material. So manv women seem to
fancy that a very cheap silk is necessarily
better than a good woolen or even cotton
fabric Here is a little secret: Any one
accustomed to think of such things, seeing
you in that silk would perceive that you
could not afford to buy a eood one and had
to put up with the second choice orthethird,
but, seeing the good woolen, would take it
for granted that you prefer it to silk, and
that you were able to buy a very good one
and trim it accordingly.
Another suggestion is this: Let each year
look out tor itself, and only provide gowns
and wraps enough at once for that season.
A street dress, if tailor made, or at least in
the plain and somewhat severe style suited
to a walking dress, one or two dinner or
evening dresses, and a pretty house dress
are all that anybody needs lor one season
even in society, and these should be renewed
each year, and made in the latest style of
the day.
DON'T THOWS ON NEW FASHIONS.
A great many persons always object to
any new fashion. No, let us adopt the new
fashions while they are new, say I, and lead
rather than follow the field, unless we are
resolved nerer to adopt any change at all,
and in that case better to dbn the Sister of
Charity's costume at once. But if you
would really be stylish and abreast of the
mode, have lew gowns at a time and do not
try to make last year's gown answer for this
year. And whatever you do with the old
gowns, let me implore you not to try to wear
them out at home! Any man is justified in
divorcing a wi e who wears dirty finery at
home, and makes her evening dresses serve
as wrappers for the breakfast table.
Then one final point, upon which I most
strenuously insist, is this: Every woman has
her own style, and she never will be well
dressed until she has learned what it is, and
learned to humor it and enconrage it. Are
you tall, straight and of paimul thinness?
Don't wear stripes or redingotes or tailor
made wraps. Are you quite the reverse?
Eschew draperies and fluffiness about the
shoulders, and horizontal trimminss.
Mks. Frank Leslie.
TlUi LATEST IN PARIS.
Hints for the Battel files in the Trappings of
Princesses.
The past month has brought to sight
in Paris an unusually large number
of the old nobility of France. Hand
some salons that have been closed
Dress of the Duchesse D' TTzez.
to all but a very small and select circle of
friends have been thrown open, and the
always beautilul Duchesse d'Czez gave a
grand reception, where no one whose rank
was less than a Baron or Count or Countess
was seen. Mme. la Duchesse wore a superb
robe en train of electric blue plush, with a
drapery of embroidered crepe de chine in
pale blue. In her abundant hair she wore
a crescent of diamonds.
H. JR. E. Princess de Chartres and
Marguerite.
Princess
"When her Eoyal Highness, the Princess
de Chartres, and the young Princess Mar
guerite visited the prison where the royal
prisoner was, they wore adorable toilet?,
jnst suited to the occasion. They were som
ber in color and plain in outline. The
young fiancee ol the Duo d'Orleans wore a
state gray cloth and black velvet wrap, with
a hat and plumes to match, while the Prin
cess de Chartres wore a dark green stuff
robe, with a charming little visitc of black
velvet and faille, trimmed with silk passe
menterie aud fringe, and wore a black
capote to match.
Thanks to the introduction of Salvation
Oil our young bicyclers need not fear a fall.
25cts.
i Ms
PITTSBURG DISPATCH,
DOCTORS AND WOMEN.
Shirley Dare Writes About Their
Kelations to Each Other.
NOVELTIES IN MEDICAL PAPERS.
The Bite of an Angry or Jealous Woman
Produces an Ugly Wound.
GETTING BID OP SUPERFLUOUS HAIR
rWMTTEN FOB THE DISPATCH.
Women and doctors are supposed to be on
good terms with each other. Perhaps doc
tors are the only class who rightly measure
the influence of the sex, neither appraising
them too highly in a world which has many
interesting facts beside women; nor, on the
other hand, putting aside real ailments and
troubles as mere nervousness, which the or
dinary man is inclined to do. A good doc
tor, that is, one gifted with natural insight,
who understands his calling, has fewer illu
sions about women and more sympathy tor
them than any other living being. The
sensible doctor is apt to stand as a woman's
best friend.
A sensible doctor, and there one must
sigh, for sensible doctors don't hang their
sign son every bush, and I begin to think
they are as scarce as sensible women or
pleasant days in a Philadelphia winter.
When a druggist tells of putting up pepsin
in doses ot 40 grains each for a sick woman,
or of prescriptions from leading physicians
who order 14 or 16 powerful ingredients in
one mixture, as one of the trustiest city dis
pensers told me last week, one begins to
thins: it is well for people to know some
thing about their own bodies, and what
goes inside of them. The low English
phrase "their insides" expresses all most
people know of their interiors As a witty
woman says, they seem to consider their
insides as a sort of bag or cavity of which
they know as little as they do of the here
after. They commit care of their souls to
the preachers and their bodies to the doctors
with as little concern as if it was nothing to
them what becomes of either.
FORTY PER CENT PREVENTABLE.
The best physicians agree that at least 40
per cent of all deaths by disease are prevent
able; that is out of each 100 people dying in
civilized countries to-day, at least 40 might
be saved by skilled medicine and good
nursing. A city physician of high standing
tells of cases under his knowledge of the
grossest malpractice by men, equally high
in the profession; one where a case of in
ward ulcer was diagnosed and treated as
spinal disease, till it was too late to heal the
real malady, and he with others wis called
on to sign the certificate absolving the doctor
from blame.
"I knew it was the grossest error," said
the enlightened physician; "but what could
I do? The patient was dead, and couldn't
be brought to life. It' I refused to sign, it
would make trouble for me in my business,
and the doctor's friends would all be against
me. But it was a case of manslaughter for
all that."
It is something to have doctors awakened
to tne crime of losing human life through
ignorance and incompetence. In time in
telligent conscience and sense of honor will
forbid an able man to sign snch a certificate,
even at risk of professional goodwill and
income.
More than one notorious trial for murder
by poisoning could be instanced, where the
prescriptions administered by the attending
physician were irritant and drastic enough
to account for all the symptoms alleged.
But nobody ever thought of questioning the
doctor's medicine, unless it was a few trou
blesome scientific persons whose modest sug
gestions were quenched in the hue and cry
after a murder and a poisoning.
It suggests itself to the intelligent mind
that perhaps it might be safe for the public
to know as much more of its own physiology
as it can spare time from lawn tennis, base
ball and spring sewing to find out. Anyone
who has really been sick once in a lifetime
and had some trouble in getting cured finds
a very fervid interest in reading about
health and disease, not the simple elemen
tary articles which doctors furnish the news
papers, but such as they write for each
other, of which the intelligent layman can
pick out the sense between the hard words.
THE MEDICAL JOURNALS.
Take, for instance, the Annual of the
Medical Sciences, one of the most thorough
performances of the age, in which a corps of
the keenest physicians collect all the ob
servations and discoveries iu medicine
yearly all over the globe. You didn't
know there were medical journals printed
in Arabic to-day, or that the best Arab
doctors hold the respect of the profession as
when their forefathers first brought intelli
gent medicine to Europe. It enlarges our
ideas of progress to hear ot medical maga
zines published in Siberia and the Cape of
Good Hope, to siy nothing of Japan, which
has seven periodicals of the kind. It was no
slight project to enlist the leading men of
the profession in this work, which numbers
among its contributors the physicians to the
Empress of Russia and the Queen of Italy,
besides half a dozen other court doctors, and
such princes of the science as Sir Morel
Mackenzie, Dr. B. Ward Richardson, of
London, and nearly every name ot weight
in this country and Britain, Prof. Seguin,
of New York, and Drs. Minot, ot Boston;
Witherstiiie and Van Harlingen, of Phila
delphia, and the noted physicians of Vienna,
Jena, Prague, Copenhagen and Moscow, in
all about 300 distinguished editors, enthusi
astic as they are exact and profound.
No wonder that last year in this country
COO lives were saved by suggestions from this
suurcc, a tribute more exquisite than any
praise which could be offered. The seven vol
umes for last year compress the value of the
year's issue of over 300 medical journals.
Borrow it of your doctor, who ought to have
it, if he does not, and you will find it highly
interesting reading. .My purpose is solely to
record some curious observations on women.
nTJMAN BEINGS 'WHO BITE.
Dr. Soriano, of Mexico, reports 16 cases of
bites by human beings, mostly women, in one
year, a pastime in which they indulge with
comparative frequency. The bite of an augry
or jealous woman makes an usrly wound; ut
first attended with little blood, but red, hot
and very painful, often developing erysip
elas, calling for deep incisions and amputa
tions of a finger or limb. Recovery is al
ways slow, tedious and painful; eVea death
may result. The time required for cure is
from 13 days to five months. If seen early
one may distinguish whether the wound was
made by a simple bite, or whether chewing
or tearing took place, the size of the wound
varying with the dimensions of the jaws and
the tenderness of the skin and tissues at
tacked, from one-quarter to an inch. I men
tion this as affording a new class of morbid
horrors for the intense school ot novelists.
Dr. Mackenzie, of London, suggests a
treatment for skin diseases which is valua
ble lor improving the complexion. Hot
baths, alkaline with borax or pearline, or
glutinous with bran or rice water are of
value in soothing the skin, removing scales
and Waste and promoting perspiration. A
diaphoretic mixture combined with quinine
is given to secure a healthy action of the
kidneys, which have much to do with clear
ing the skin, and preventing unsightly
fuzzinessof the face. A lint mask steeped
in a lotion of glycerole of lead and glycer
ine, each one ounce to a pint of water, is of
benefit, the lead actine as a sedative and
astringent, curing wrinkles and falling folds
of skin. The glycerine keeps the surface
moist, saturating "the epidermis and keeping
the horny layer oi the skin from splitting
and scaling as in rough hands or face. The
lotion is used till all roughness and irrita
tion disappear, and cocoa butter or cream is
rubbed on the skin.
KEEPING THE SKIN MOIST.
This treatment explains the improvement
made by the popular preparations of glycer
ine and tragacanth solution, known as vio
let glycerine aud other names, the lotion
keeping the surface moist and elastic, so
SUNDAY, MARCH
that the changes of growth and repair pass
with greater activity. A cut or wound kept
moist by antiseptic" dressing heals in half
the time it would if left with a dry bandage.
The endemic nse of cocaine for the relief
of obstinate neuralgias is of interest both
for its own purpose and as suggesting cos
metic application. The epideimis is re
moved by the use of vesicating collodion, l.
e., by blistering, and covering the denuded
sur ace with an India-rubber membrane
w'lose edges are securely glued to the sur
rounding skin. The rubber membrane is
provided with a metal shield through which
a 2 per cent solution of cocaine is introduced
beneath the rubbe- on the bare skin directly
afiecting the nerves.
The use of vesicating collodion might
solve the problem how to remove superfluous
hair in obstinate cases. I have lately seen
a lady's face which was a constant distress
to its owner on which various forms of
dipilatory treatment have been tried with
out avail improved by similar treatment.
Milder means failing to meet her wishes,
she was provided with a lotion to he used
with care, quantity and time of application
being strictly set down. But woman-like,
she could think of nothing but the desired
improvement in her face, and used a month's
supply in.one week. The result was fearful
blistering, which took days to heal and she
was very wroth about it. She came to com
plain in a high state ot dudgeon, of the re
sults of her own'mistake, to put it mildly,
but with a face pinkly white,
SOFT AND CLEAR AS A CHILD'S.
The lotion had done its work, though at
cost of needless suffering. The details of
the case would be highly amusing to the
public, though not so much to the family
and friends, afflicted with the care of a
hysteric and utterly ungovernable woman.
But similar cases prove that if women want
a heroic cure for superfluous hair they can
get it by blistering till the outer skin peels
off. It is less painful than electrolysis, and
surer. With the cocaine and India rubber
membrane the suffering might be greatly
reduced. I beg to be excused, however,
from personally recommending the treat
ment. Among the curiosities of disease, Dr. Fry
reports "an interesting and valuable case"
of a young woman of 30 who had run a
heavy sewing machine 10 or 12 hours daily
for 12 years till she was taken with muscu
lar sDasins, during which the patient exe
cuted tramping movements with great rapid
ity, her heels making "a great clatter on the
floor." Now this is not frou a work on the
condition of the poor, but none the less in the
cool recital of a medical report.it strikes one
as a shameful horror. The human being had
done the work of a machine until its move
ments had become mechanical and passed
from voluntary control. Imagine, if you can,
the stress of that ten hours' grind a day at a
heavy sewing machine for 12 years, and re
member how many creatures live by turning
themselves into machinery in the same way
at a cost of the same suffering.
ADMINISTERING EXERCISE.
A treatment for sciatica used for years in
England and France with much success is
to envelop the leg in powdered sulphur
during the night. Dr. Duchesne has seen a
permanent cure of sciatica by a single appli
cation, and another reports a severe case
cured in two nights. A new mode of ad
ministering exercise provokes a smile. Dr.
Gartner describes an apparatus for "thera
peutic application of muscular work, which
consists of a handle to be turned by the
patient through a large circle, it being pos
sible to increase or diminish the resistance
offered by the handle." The "therapeutic
application of muscular work" is a phrase
which expresses a good deal, and plain folks
may feel satisfaction in taking their exer
cise without being condemned to a genteel
therapeutic treadmill, neither more nor
less.
The good doctor might push his idea
farther by projecting a machine which with
out the vulgar interference of actual useful
ness would present all the movements of
brushing, sweeping making beds and mold
ing bread, running up and down stairs,
scrubbing doorsteps and the routine ot
household work without the drawback of
being oi the leist use. By taking the curse
off in this way, and going through the mo
tions mer:lv. with resistance graduated to
f the dynamic force of the patient, it would
undoubtedly find great favor, and be intro
duced into" the public schools in two or
three of our largest and most ideal cities.
THE TREATMENT OF INSOMNIA.
The treatment of insomnia without drugs
is of interest to women, the loss of sleep
being the great cause of their nervou-ness
and fading. The fine condition of the skin
dependsgreatlyon thenerves, which directly
control the circulation of the blood. The
night bath, in which the patient is im
mersed, except the head, in water 98 F.,
quickly raised to 110, for 15 minutes, and
returning, wrapped in blankets, to a warm
bed, would insure a night's refreshing rest
to many fatigued women, and tone to their
complexion wonderfully. Dr. Eccles' body
compress serves a similar purpose, eight
yards of heated bandage swathing the hips,
the first layer being wet when applied.
Both these methods dilate the blood ves
sels of the trunk, slowing the heart's beat,
and reducing the supply of blood to the
whole of the brain, inducing complete rest.
Rest that smooths out the fine lines in the
roscleaf and fills its issue with moisture,
that feeds the pigment of the eye with color,
and renders it liquid and clear, which
curves the lip ready for a smile and frees
the nerve of fear or agitation. May it be
yours and mine. Shirley Dare.
ROSES THAT ARE GREEN.
A Novelty in Flowers Tbac Is Not Rare In
Cnllfornla.
"Green roses are not a rarity in Califor
nia," said a San Francisco florist to a Call
reporter the other day. "I remember the
first one that I saw in San Francisco. That
wa3 35 years ago. It was at Walker's
Golden Gate Nursery. But before that date
I had seen a green rose in Europe. I think
it was in 1829 that one was exhibited in
Germany at a grand exposition,
"A green rose is nothing but a hybrid,
and, like all hybrid roses, it grows hardy,
healthy and tall. Some specimens are
larger than others, but tbey are about the
same. None of them have any perfume.
Its petals resemble green leaves. By skill
ful cultivation a green rose was produced
from a rose whose sepals had the leaty char
acteristic." "How are the green roses propagated, by
cuttings?" asked the reporter.
"Yes," was the reply, "by cuttings, lay
ering and suckering, but chiefly by seeds.
The greeu rose has stamens and pistils.
They are a delicate greenish pink, aud it
you were to separate the crumpled, crowded
green petals from each other, in the center,
you would see these organs. But there is no
market for them. Who wants a green rose?
No one because of its beauty. It's cot even
pretty; it's odd, that's all."
JEWELS 05. GL0TES.
Beautiful Sparklers on the Backs of Grace
ful Hands the ltnge In Paris.
A fad of Paris is now the jeweled glove.
Some of them have three rows of diamonds
so arranged that they could be sewed on to
one pair of gloves and yet transferred again
to another pair at will. They look most
charming on the hand.
This fashion seems strange, because em
broidered gloves have rarely made much
headway iu modern times, though centuries
ago they were most popular. Fine work is
also shown on the new gloves in Paris as
well as jewels. The arms and crests ot noble
and royal houses adorn the top, while flow
ers and leaves, in designs and in the natural
colors, cover the outside of the black kid
gloves especially, silver lilies of the valley
being placed on white kid.
The Tell n l'rlmo Necessity.
The veil has always been an important
adjunct to the toilet of a woman, and just
now, when lovely woman stoops to lolly and
looks upon the rouge when it is red, the
strip of illusion becomes more than ever a
necessity. A veil is a coquetry to a pretty
girl, a charity to an ugly one.
16, 1890.
COLONIAL BEAUTIES.
Marvelous Methods of Hair Dressing
in Ie Olden Times.
THE ELECTION STILE A FOOT HIGH.
A Thing to Commend Was That the Hair
Never Intruded on the Face.
1XC0NYENIENCES A BELLE EKDDELD
tWHITTXX fOB TBI DISPATCH. 1
ANITX was as
plentiful in the
days of our ances
tors as now, but no more
so then or now than has
ever been evident among
savages. To look pretty
as well as neat is a hu
man characteristic, the
matrons and maidens of
the colony were given
at one time to gewgaws, laces, and a show
of trinkets; the continental epoch decreed
that to be in active social life, dress and
glitter were essential, while to-day the
South Sea Island cannibal woman is no
more fond of dazzling beads than her less
barbarous sister of the States is of her dang
ling passementerie, shining diamonds, and
talismanic moonstones. The magpie loves
things that glisten; so do kings, men and
women, "all is vanity."
In colonial days the hair was worn by the
ladies mostly in falling pugs behind; there
was some crimping of the front locks among
the yoaug, while the older people kept their
foreheads full and free, and consequently
handsome. There were no fancy styles, no
elaborate puffs and rolls, until Louis XIV.
and Charles II. established their regal
courts, then the fashion soon found its way
to
tne new country. The rench methods
7
s;
A Melle of the Period.
or customs in hair-dressing were adopted
the world over and have reigned supreme
ever since. Henrietta of England never
looked better than when she lived in Paris
and was the exalted member of the Four
teenth Louis' amorous court. She cre
ated the style ot hair-dressing in vogue
in this country in the latter part of the
seventeenth century, which consisted of a
few scattering ringlets over the upper fore
head, smooth on top, a profusion of curls
on the back and sides, while the pug was
enlarged by artificial means and decked off
with ambers or jewels. The corsage was
very low, and most auy kind of a neck-chain
was worn, some adopted the manners of
Mme. de Montespan, which was far more
becoming inasmuch as it displayed numer
ous puffs and curls and was distended at the
sides, hiding the ears. Pearls or strings of
jewels were intertwined throutrh the hair,
enriching the light-and-shade eflects.
"The tower" shows a row of lace, stuck
bolt-upright over the forehead, which shot
upward one over the other in a succession of
plaits, diminishing in width as they rise,
while long streaming lappets hung over the
shoulders from the head, the hair was
combed upward at the bacfc and was a sort
of support for the structure. Later on this
structure took a different form and was
called "a commode," as a poet of the times
sings:
My hich commode, my damask gown.
My lacpd shoes of Spanish leather:
A silver bodkin in my head.
And a dainty plume of feather.
In 1760, false locks, to supply a deficiency
of native hair, were used; these, with poma
tum in profusion, greasy wool to bolster up
the adopted curls, and gray powder to con-
Touertng High in Air.
ceal the dust, were the rage, and the buckle
style shows to some extent the true method
of arrangement.
In the middle of the eighteenth century
and a little later barbers were numerous in
all large seaport towns where commerce was
active and money pentiiul. The hair
dressers of that period made a fine living,
and were honored and respected as artists
and no doubt they were. They dressed the
hair with "French curls," rough and half
moon rupees, plaiu tops and many other
forms. One of these barbers informs the
public that "Ladies shall be attended to in
the polite construction of rolls, such as may
tend to raise their heads to any pitch they
desire." Of course the rising of the hair
grew more and more conspicuous until it
reached the "Election style," which was
nearly a dozen inches over and above the
scalp and was decked with feathers on top.
Fortunately the style changed later on and
has never, not even among the Albions, at
tained such heights.
There is one thing, one feature about the
old styles of hair-dressing which is certainly
commendable, and that is that the whole
face was always seen. In this respect the
Puritans were quite noticeable. They hat
ed the "love-locks" of the French, aud had
they ever believed that their children's
children would be frizzed up iuconvulsions
nnd curls, decorated with ribbons aud
feathers, and filled with pomatum and pow
der, thev would not have believed it, and
would rise in tliolr graves to protest against
the unchristian horror.
The ladies of ourtitne have not the trouble
with their hair which theirgreat-great-grand-mothers
had. In 1710 and up to the dawn of
WM y
m vr yip
W
V
he present century the hair-dresser was the
busiest man in the world. The cost of a full
dressing of the hair was very great, and
often one dressing of it would last a week or
longer. Great caro was taken of the greasy
mass as far as preserving the forms
went, but at a consequence of the accumu
lation of dirt and heat, the fashionable
dames suffered no end of trouble with in
jects a fact, gentle reader, and one which
bothered the good ladies no end. Think of
it, ye modern beauties, would yon sit up in a
Protecting the Hair.
chair for two or three nights before a ball to
keep your hair from becoming disarranged?
The mothers of the revolutionary heroes
used to. The business of the hairdresser
was so great that one was obliged to have
her hair arranged before state or social
events or else she could not be presented.
Coils and plaits followed the tedious and
ungainly construction of hair ornamenta
tion, and the French revolution caused the
world to suspend for a time the use of pow
ders and pomades, the ladies for a while
confining their tresses in antique fillets and
appearing far more lady-like than ever be
fore. At no period of the history of hair-dress
ing was there any prettier or more simple
method adopted and carried out than
among the first settlers, a description of
which will be batter understood when we
study the modern styles, which are gen
erally very much the same, excepting in the
forelocks, which are b.incred or frizzed. A
Puritan maiden did not possess the requisites
fni "fi.lnrt nn " Cd. AX i . !..... U :
--. ...uA ugj, UtlB UIU llUb IJtlVC Hi5 WHIG
nor the occasion to spend a half-dar over her
flowing locks; line" the Greeks, the more
simple the knot at the bick the better, and
while the front hair was not kept down with
bands it was always smooth, and by way of
decoration a neat little cap of bright gauzy
uiaieriai creauy aneviatea tne trouoie and
added some pretty lines to the contour both
of children and maidens, as well as the older
folks.
The customs of the courts in Europe and
Old Style and New.
the higher or more fashiohable folks in this
country are far more reasonable than they
ever have been, and monstrous "Election
styles," which called forth the following
humorous description, will, let us hope,
never be worn again. The poet said:
A cat like a bat
(Which was once a crayat)
Part gracefully plaited and pinned Is;
Part stack npon gauze.
Resembles macaws.
And all the fine birds of the Indies.
Bat above all the rest,
A hold amazon's crest
Waves nodding from shoulder to shoulder;
At once to surprise
And to lavish all eyes.
To frighten and charm the beholder.
TEN D0LHRS' WORTH OP SILENCE.
A Belated Husband Who Got the Better of
Ills Better Hair.
St. Louis Bepabllc.l
A well-known citizen adopted a novel ex
pedient the other night to secure peace.
It was incumbent upon him to attend to
some business downtown and he promised
his wife he would positively he back at 8:30.
There would be no slipup, no accidents or
mishaps, no "ifs" or "buts" there could be
no mistake about it he would be home at
8:30 prompt. His wife looked a little doubt
ful. "Will you give me a dollar for every
hour that you are later than that?" she
asked.
"Done," he exclaimed, and forgot all
about it.
As he groped his way in at 11 o'clock he
suddenly bethought himself of his wager.
Of course his wife was up. "Here, my
dear, I'm two hours and a half late, here's
$5. Double pay. Now, don't say a word."
The lady saw that she could not honorably
refuse to abide by the compact, but declares
now that she wouldn't have taken $10 for
the curtain lecture which she had mapped
out and committed to memory for the occa
sion.
ON TOP OP A VOLCANO.
Younz Richardson Pitches Ills Tent on Fiery
Collma In 3exlco.
William B. Eichardson, the young Bos
ton naturalist, has suceeeded in reaching
the top ot the volcano Collma. The feat was
a daring one. Eichardson pitched his tent
at the upper line of pine trees and just below
the lower line of ashes and lava. The trees
above bad all been burned, and it was im
possible to walk in the deep bed of ashes.
From this point Bichardson and bis Indian
followers could hear the sound of air from
numerous rents in the side of the volcano.
The Indians were much terrified, and
could be induced to remain only by the
earnest persuasion of the naturalist. One
night during the eruption they could dis
tinctly see the deep red glow of the lava as
it ran down the line, a fiery stream, burying
itself in ashes, trees, or in beds of brooks or
older beds of lava. One dense ciond of
ashes covered the party thickly and drove
birds lower down.
SCIENCE ISN'T PROFITABLE.
Thr Widow or Prof.' Hiclinrd A. Praetor
Warn Left Uiiprorlded For.
Wcw York World.
Mrs. Eichard A. Proctor, widow of the
astronomer whose death was due as much to
officiousness on the part of the Board of
Health as to the yellow fever, was left un
provided for. Science is immortal, but rare
ly profitable, and all the savings of tha
genial professor went for instruments, charts
and publications. He lelt a library of his
own in manuscript, lrom which Mm. Proc
tor has compiled lectures, and is delivering
in college towns and cities for her support.
PLAT THE PART WELL.
Emma 7. Sheridan Applies
Actress' Secrets to Society.
the
SKILL M EEPOSE AND SINCERITY.
If the Belle "tfnat Pretend Let Her Enter
Into the Spirit of It.
PEPiPECT COAIAIAND OP THE JIUSCLES
rWEITTIX FOB THE DISPATCH.!
Study any graceful actress' method of
moving. You will find that perfect com
mand of equilibrium is the chief factor of
her grace. If her walk is a sort of harmo
nious swaying toward the objective point, it
is because as her feet move her weight is
swung from hip to hip, keeping the body at
every stage of movement surely poised.
This shifting ot weight is her great secret.
So it is that she bends in a conrtesy to the
floor, and rises all in one smooth, perfect
motion.
So it is that when she says "Leave the
room," if the pointing to the door is accom
plished by a movement that is graceful, it is
because, as the arm goes out, the whole poise
of the body alters to balance the outstretch
ing of the arm, and because the arm moves
up the hand almost pendant till the im
pulse of pointing comes. Try pointing I
mean by uplifting the arm. If you raise
the arm with the hand making a continuous
horizontal line, the movement is stiff and
awkward. It you raise the arm the hand
hanging pendant till the arm has reached
position and then lilt the hand to the re
quired horizontal the movement' is grace
ful. Why? Jnst because you paid proper
respect to'the power of gravitation, that's
all. Let gravitation govern your move
ments and you will be graceful.
PRETT2J SE AlYSVAYS BETRAYS ITSEU.
Stndy your own personality, and make
yourself mistress of it, just as the actress
does. Study the people with whom you are
thrown. Be able promptly to adjust your
sympathies to their range of interests, and to
convey by voice and manner a suggestion of
that sympathy. Don't pretend not to be
bored don't be bored it is your own fault
if you are. Pretense always betrays itself.
Do as the actress does with her parts be
sincere inwhatever vou say or do. It may
not be a sincerity lodged in the depths of
your own private opinions, but that need
not prevent your being infected by the
speaker with an interest in what interests
him, just as the actress shares for the time
being the feelingsof the character whose role
she plays.
Don't be down on me for counselling you
to "play a part." My advice would be to
store your heart so well with human sym
pathey, your mind with information, and
your lite with wholesome work and experi
ence, that you cannot tail to find chords of
harmony in every one with whom you come
into contact. Hot having time for all this,
I will only counsel you to pretend more
successfully than you do. Don't make the
mistake of trying to cover up conscious in
sincerity with a lot of
GTJSII JiXD ESTHtrSIASM.
Ton will be safer not to feel the insincer
ity. What do I mean? Oh, It is clear
enough. Suppose Mr. Jones asks you to
drive, or to lunch, or whatever it may be.
and you don't want to at all, but feel "that
you must accept Don't rush into a reply
with the idea of not wanting to go in your
mind, but make the decision to accept a
background for your remark. See ?
Oh! its well nigh useless to try putting
things on the outside. You must start in"
side always, or the two will be at a variance
which will betray itself in plain insinceritv.
You may not care a rap about Mr. Muddle's
love aHair with Miss Pink, bnt if he is tell
ing it to you, you mignt as well please Mr.
Muddle by a sympathy that appears to him
genuine, as offend him by any make-believe.
To do this the sympathy must be pretended
to yourself quite as earnestly as to him.
Better still, put yourself in his" place as the
actress does when she plays a part and you
will be "the best-hearted girl in the world."
This power the actress has of setting aside
her own personality and entering into that
of another is worth cultivating for social
purposes. Be able to really mean what you
say while you say it. Of course, your con
science must be with you always. I sup
pose the "flutter" girl, who goes into spasms
of delight that deceive no one, has her con
science with her. All I mean is, if you
must pretend, let it be done successfully
TWO CASE3 IX POINT.
When Mr. Brown joins you and Alger
non in the conservatory, if it is really advis
able that Mr. Brown should not suspect he
is de trop, you will be wise to have at com
mand a word of welcome, that shall sound
as genuine as prudence dictates that it
should sound. When Mabel tells you that
De Smith is married, and you know that
Mabel is watching you with hawk's eves, if
yon really don't want Mabel to see that the
news is a shock to you, it behooves you to be
able to say simply and genuinely: "So I
hear were you surprised?" quietly enough
and with self-possession genuine enough to
upset Mabel's little calculations.
Command of muscle, remember, is tha
first sign of self-possession. Teach your sur
prises and shocks not to leap to your finger
tips and into the high notes of your voice, as
hasty words tumble from an unguarded
tongue. You may feel the astonishment,
but let it trickle off into your inner con
sciousness without evidencing itself out
wardly, and then say the nice, gentle thing
you should say.
THE KECESSART FIB3.
When you are obliged to protect yourself
behind one of the many social falsehoods
that must upon occasion be resorted to, bet
ter do so successfully than so insincerely
that your intent is betrayed. Do so with
an air of firmness and self-confidence that
shall argue a backing of fact for your state
ment. The fib is made no better by being
told badly, Is it? Indeed it is made worse,
for besides being a falsehood it hnrtsor
offends the person to whom you tell it.
Cultivate repose and sincerity. Thev am
two great factors in the attractiveness ol a
successful woman. Be what you seem; if
what vou must seem be at variance with
your waydown, real, own, private personal
character, it is unlucky, but since you must
pretend, why, for the moment, be what you
pretend, and let the pretense be a success,
not a contusion both of insincerity and lack
of tact. EmmaV.Sheeidas,
A BEAUTIFUL SKIS.
Getting Bid or Black Specks nnd Keeping
the Face Fresh-
The plainest features become pretty when
clothed with a fresh velvety skin. First of
all, one must keep the face free from those
unsightly blackheads or grubbs. Bathe the
parts in hot water; rub on a little oil, and
then take an old-fashioned watebkey and
pry out all the large ones. Afterward rub
on cream or any soothing ointment. In the
morning there will be no trace of redness.
To have a clear skin it is essential to keep
the digestive organs in good order and
sleep as much as possible. Sleep will do
more to preserve the freshness of youth than
auy other one thing. At night wash the face
in warm water never use hot using soap
freely to remove thedustof theday. Then take
a pint of cold water to which a tablespoon
ful of bay rum has been added, and bathe
the face for five minutes. Dry the face on a
coarse towel, rubbing gently to get up a
pleasant friction. Listly spread a little
cream lightly on the face and neck.
In the morning remove the grease with
plenty of warm water and soap followed
by a cold bath as at night. Th'en apply a
little powder with soft linen rag to remove
the shine. Powder is an essential adjunct
to a lady's toilet let men say what they
will to the contrary but never use a cheap
powder. The best will be found harmless.