wz
.
THE PITTSBURG DISPATCH
'-F
SECOND PART
THE STINGY BRETON.
His Entire Lack of Hospitality in
Contrast With the Irish
IOD CAN OKLY PAY THE FORMER,
While the Celt is Insulted if Ton Off er Him
Compensation.
PICTURES OF THE PEASANT HOMES
ICOKRXSrOXDENCE OP TOT BISPATCH.I
Vannes, Brittany, January 2. Sev
eral weeks' wandering in Brittany hai made
one characteristic of the Breton folk very
plain and clear to me. They are not a hospita
ble people. I think tney represent an opposite
extreme in this particular to the kindly
Irish. In all my wanderings among the
lowly of many lands I was never before
refused food and shelter; and if they were
ever proffered and charged for, or if a slight
gift of coin dextrously placed among the
children was allowed, it was always as if
with something akin to shame tbat bitter
poverty prevented a full expression of the
generous wish within the heart. And in
Inland, what whole-hearted, tender and
evenSggressive hospitality is there every
where! "With delusions and snares, with
devices and excuses, with finesse and mon
strous lies forgivable, you are wheedled
inside to the Irish hearthstone, and plied
with cead mille failte (an hundred thou
sand welcomes) if there is not enough left
in and about the woebegone place to grow
healthy hair on the wailing cabin pig.
Bless their generous hearts, how aggressive
they sometimes become! I shall never
forget two instances among countless others
where Irish hospitality was illustrated to
me with startlingand ludicrous emphasis.
I had passed the night with a peasant
farmer in the lake region of Conamara, be
tween Toombeola and Bonndstone Bay.
His father, a weazened but remarkably
spry old man, was living with him. They
vera pitiably poor, and I could see that the
scant entertainment I had got was a sore
tax upon their slender resources. On de
parting, as is the Conamara custom, my
host and the little old man set out with me
some miles upon the road, each insisting on
carrying some one of my belongings, and
both, full of the truest friendliness and con
cern, warning me against this pit-fall and
tnat, and above all that I "fcape an aisy
eye on the murtherin' consthabulary." until
the moment of parting came, when tneir
goodness and poverty so touched me I could
not resist the risk of offense, and, while
shaking the little old father's hand, I man
aged to leave a halt crown within it.
MONET AX INSULT TO THE CELT.
"With a "whoop!" yon could have heard
a mile the old fellow sprang three feet into
the air. He dung the money at my feet;
and his hat and coat came after. In sn in
stant he was dancing about me, delivering
sundry taps and curlings tbat cracked and
rung stingingly, and perforce placing me in
a condition ot the liveliest defense. "While
dodging and parrying, I gave utterance to
the blandest explanations. But they were
of no avail. Fight I must. Fight I did.
Wholly on the deiensive with the old man,
whom I soon tired out, the son took np the
affair, depositing his jacket upon the road
wail, and spitting upon his hands and
cracking them together with a terrible re
port I must own they both fought fairly,
and with mary kindly injunctions and
warnings; ana we had it there on the old
stone road until the dust hid the spectacle
from the rest of Ireland. But I was the
best-trained, best-fed man, and, thongh
ashamed to say It, "bested" the two of them
until tears of admiration ran down their
generous faces, and shrill and pathetic tor
rents of oratory thanked me for the added
entertainment I had given them, while
"Luck go wid yez!" and "God's blessings
on yez!" reached me as far as I could hear
along the pleasant way. But I offered no
Irish peasant money for his hospitality after
that.
In the other experience I was not so fortu
nate. I was trainpinc down the Boyne
from Navan to ancient Drogheda by the sea.
Full of loitering and revery I had paused at
a canal lock beside one of those lovely
Boyne cabins, set like a bitof cameo against
the emerald of firs and onyx of black clifis
above. Beyond, across the Boyne stood the
ruins of the De JLacy castle of Dunmoe, be
low, a picturesque old mill. The whole
place is always instinct with olden glories,
and
" from the mossy wheel
That flashing plays 'neath old Dunmoe
An ancient sound doth steal."
While leaning on the old lock and drinking
in the beauties of the spot, a tall gaunt
Irishwoman appeared in the door of the
cabin. I must come in and rest by the fire,
she said. I thanked her, but declined, as I
felt I must hasten on. It was a long wait
to Drogheda, and I wanted to get the even
ing train for Belfast Surely I would step
in and have a sup of posset No, I would
move on.
SVHEEE HE MADE A MISTAKE.
Then the old woman came out and con
fronted me. She clutched me, dragged me
to the bank, lifted me out as easily as
though I had been a household cat, carried
me into her cabin and set me before a cheery
peat fire, and for two mortal hours, while
drying me out, filled my body with food,
and my memory with such evidences of
Irish hospitality as I can never forget I
missed my train at Drogheda; but I learned
at the lock on the Boyne to never refuse
proffered hospitality in Ireland.
You will never have anything of the sort
to learn in Brittany. Call at a roadside
cottage here and ask for shelter and food for
the night, and the whole family will crowd
into the door to obstruct yonr passage.
Then they will silently and sullenly look
you over. Whither irom? Whither bound?
If a foreigner, they are even shrewd enongh
to demand your passport. If o vagabond, de
serter or ticket-of-leave man will they har
bor. Finally assured yon are none of these,
they set about bargaining tor the last sou
they can wring from you. The food you are
to get to the very color of the coffee is set
powerfully against your monev. Their own
poverty, their bewildering number of chil
dren, we loneiy roaa to the nearest
village inn, the fact that at the
next cottage they wonld probablv mur
der you as well as take you in;
all and much more is set forth to make your
bargain a hard one. They are shrewd and
canny, these simple folk, and they will
make you very, very miserable until the
price is set and paid down in hand, for they
will not trust you with thr sum until morn
ing, lest your appearance belie your ability
to pay; but the lugubrious transaction once
settled, and a few sons scattered among the
children, which are immediately snatched
away and hidden in the farmer's strong box,
the atmosphere suddenly changes. Yoa are
the guest now. All the inn-keeping polite
ness, suavity and attention ot Paris itself
are vonrs; and until yon leave, every son!
in the cottage puts every other duty aside
to minister unto yonr wants and comfort
PICTUBE OF A PEASANT'S HOME.
A Breton peasant-farmer's home is one of
the strangest compounds of filth and cleanli
ness to be fonnd in the whole world. There
is not a cabin in all Ireland so embedded in
dirt as in every Breton farm cottage. The
pig roots before the door, hunts and haunts
at will within doors, and sleeps within the
same peaceful atmosphere as the household
at night Goats and fowls are on precisely
the same footing as all other members ot the
family as to occupancy of the home, and the
cow, donkey or horse "looks calmly in upon
all the household proceedings from its
"lean-too," and breathes content upon you
from its open manger above yonr box bed.
In winter and summer the walls of the cot-
tftire form mnvntnf etnll fnndippant.
rmals, if the fanner possesses them, or steam
witn me lumes of piles of decaying manure.
To the farmer these bring bis wealth, and it
is more preciously cared for than his wife or
children. Numberless farm-homes I have
visited were scarcely accessible through a
narrow isle to the door, the only windows
being boarded up and covered over with the
vile stuff that it might be better guarded
and none go to waste. Upon this is piled all
garbage and refute from the scanty living,
until the place has the appearance o f a West
ern "dug-out" with its entrance through a
hole in the hillside, and the smoke from the
fireplace ascending through a hole cut high
er up along the hill. The floor within is the
bare earth, worn by feet and baked by fire
to the consistency ot asphalt. It is kept
swept clean and, smooth by tremendous osier
brooms which perform like service in the
adjoining pig-pen and cow-house. There is
but one fireplace; and all the cooking for
man and beast for the wise Breton farmer
takes as much pains with the food of his
animals as he demands for his family is
done within it, in and upon huge brass and
iron utensils that wonld be difficult for yon
or I to lift Above each fireplace will be
found curiously carved crucifixes, many I
have seen being marvels in hand carving,
and bright, colorful pictures of the saints,
or the "stations" of the sacred Passion.
There is bnt one room.
TEET LIKE A. THOUGH.
A table of some hard wood is built on
fonr huge costs driven into the ground, and
in this table will be found permanent cavi
ties, carved out of the top, which answers as
receptacles for food. Into these the smoking
contents of the casserole are poured, and
the family fingers fish for the morsels, and
the family mouths suck up the broth, of
the daily "etuve or stew. Black bread sops
up what cannot be drunk, and this, varied
by occasional draughts of whey, with still
less frequent mugs of black coffee, form the
Breton peasant's constant diet "Vegetables
are sparingly used. JLhese are boiled for
the cow and the pig; for every earthly pos
sibility in food beyond that which will sus
tain human life must go into something
which can be sold and increase the family
hoard.
Along the sides of the walls will be found
a most curious collection of bureaus and
strong boxes, or chests. It is not unusual to
find in the lowliest of Breton homes, and
standing in state upon the bare earth,
bureaus and dressers of the richest woods
and in most wonderful carvings of the six
teenth and seventeenth centuries. One old
piece which I found in a peasant's home
near Uarnacwas made in the fifteenth cen
tury, and its maker's name and the date
were cut in the wood as a part of the splen
did floriture carved in the two outer posts.
This bureau nyist have weighed 400 to 500
pounds, and wonld have been worth as many
dollars at a collector's in Boston or New
York. The locks on all these pieces ot iur
niture are immense in size, made by hand,
and the hnge drop-handles are ot" hand
wrought brass. I know of no country
whose peasantry are so singularly rich in
ancient furniture. It is prized as heirlooms,
but the owners of many of these venerable
objects claim that the most of these' rare
pieces originally came from the old castles
or manors now in ruin and decay.
At one end, or tne side, ot the average
xreton nome are a nan-oozen ot the univer
sal box bedsteads. Hanging from the roof,
to be lowered at night and raised by day,
are two or three box, or osier-plated, cradles
called "bransels," in which the infants are
stowed away at night, the only care they
ever seem to receive.
THE TBEASUEE-BOX A3 rUEXITTEE.
Nearthebedsare various strong boxes with
huge padlocks. These contain provisions,
the farmer's hoard of money, and they also
serve as seats. Near the table already de
scribed is another table of huge timbers but
lesser size. On this stands an osier cover as
large as, and looking precisely like, the
ancient willow bee-hive of our ancestors. A
cord runs from this to a ring in a rafter,
and thence to a peg in the wall, within
reach of the housewife's hand. The
first time I saw this affair swung
creaking into the air I was startled,
Its office is to cover the Breton "family
loaf." But what a loaf it is! From two to
three feet across it and from eight to ten
inches thick. "Hunks" are hacked off as
hunger wills, and so ravenons is these peas
ants' appetite that a loaf of this size lasts the
average family no more than two days. But
out ot these surroundings and conditions
come to the fetes, "pardons" and fairs the
cleanest and brightest peasant folk your eyes
ever beheld. Though every drop of water is
brought from the roadside fountain, or vil
lage well, in brown ewers upon young wo
men's heads, enough is brought to souse the
youngsters often and well; and man or wo
man of the Breton farm family knows no
sense of fchame in bathing before the fire
place and your own wondering eves, if the
set time for body scrubbing happens to ar
rive while you are bilietedwith the family.
The huge brasses upon the rare old furniture
in every Breton home, are constantly pol
ished to a dazzling brightness. Cleanliness
of person is a part of the Breton's religion.
Every cooking utensil is scrubbed and
scrub'bed alarminglv. The pains taken
with milk, butter and cheese would astonish
even a Mohawk Valley housewife. While
the outer workaday clothing may shine
with grease or gain added weight and sub
stance from layers of filth, the undergar
ments are scrupulously clean and sweet.
And you cannot find a bed in all Brittany
whose linen is not as fresh as a bed of
violets and white as a bank of newly fallen
snow.
THE SLATES AND THEIB MASTEE.
At home the Breton peasant is a sullen,
sodden drudge. The only exception is in
the master ot the house, who gravely stands
about and, while puffing his long, slender
pipe, is ever a quiet bnt effective driver of
his family of willing slaves. The wife and
children, and especially thewiteanddangh
ters, ceaselessly drudce" with the almost in
conceivable bitterness of manual labor
abont the home and in the fields. They are
beasts of burden endlessly. No respect or
consideration is ever shown the woman of
Brittany. "Once married, ever a beast," is
a pathetic proverb among them; and there
are no beautiful women among these peasant
slaves. Some of the men have good forms,
and they are tall, shapely, grave and
fine. Some even possess classic faces,
intensified by their long coarse hair,
and wide, blact, low-crowned hats.
But a Breton peasant woman is as a shape
less block of Vood, wrinkled and bent by
stormy wind and weather, her spotless white
cap, her shapeless bodice and her huge
wooden shoes giving her limp and lifeless
form grotesqueness, bnt never picturesque
ness and interest You have seen the beaten,
half-fed donkey as it canght a moment for
rest spread its legs for support and drop its
head upon its rough old breast? That is the
nearest picture one can give of this human
drudge. StandingbeforeMillet's "Angelus"
those who have never seen Brittany and its
people exclaim, "What marvel of devotion
the artist has put into that peasant woman's
posture!" I tell you he has drawn with infi
nite realism the universal posture of these
dumb and sodden beings, the endless legacy
of brutal slavery, dolor and pain.
Edgab L. Wakeman.
Be Was Discharged.
Chief Bigelow has forbidden the placing
of small theatrical bill boards on telegraph
and telephone poles. He was informed that
his ordinance man had revealed to some of
the theatrical people the intention of the
Chierto have the boards torn down, and the
Chief discharged the man from his service.
He afterward changed his mind and rein
stated the man, bnt he says it must be un
derstood that state secrets must not be re
vealed by employes of the department
A iS,0ESIAJ?: description of the
i "?l0.ofhB famous Insane artist of Brus-
, .licit, iu AU-muttBow'S ZQ-FAOE DIS.
PATCH.
THE TALMAGE TOUR.
Luxurions Travel, Early Rising, a
Long Delay and Sacred Scenes.
JOPPAANDTHEWAYTOJERUSALEM
Our
Dragoman, fertile Sharon,
and the Valley of Ajalon.
Eamleh
SPECIAL HONOES TO AMERICANS
tcoBSESPOxnxxcx or the dispatch.!
Jerusalem, December 10. The steamer
on which wo embarked for Joppa, as relat
ed in my last letter, was palatial in its ac
commodations. It was provided with elec
tric light and every modern convenience.
The staterooms of this magnificent specimen
of naval architecture were as large as the
double bedroom of an ordinary hotel, and
comfortably, not to say luxuriously, iur
nished. We enjoyed sumptuous fare at din
ner, whieh was served soon after we went
aboard. The subsequent promenade on deck
was in a deliciously balmy moonlit atmos
phere; and it was infinitely refreshing before
"turning in" for the night, to luxuriate in a
sea bath. Bed was welcome alter a weary
dav which closed thus delightfully.
We were announced to reach Joppa at 4
the next morning. .As the steamer was
booked to stay in the harbor all day,
the hour of disembarkation might be set to
suit the convenience of passengers.
DE. TA1MAOE -WAS ANXIOUS.
This was as pleasant an arrangement for
people going to bed as could be devised; but
Dr. Talmage was so excited at the idea that
in a few hours he would see the Holy Land,
that he could hardly bear to wait, and when
he retired he gave positive instructions that
he be called at 3, and if land were in sight
before that hour, to notify him at once. All
aroused at the time mentioned, with the
prospect of waiting several hours before
land conld be sighted. At 8 o'clock the
coast of Palestine first came into view.
Seen from the deck ot the approaching
steamer, Joppa presents a very pleasing ap
pearance. Its stone houses have the sub
stantial and venerable look proper to a town
of such antiqnity and historic interest; and
the lofty trees here and there in the city
augment the enjoyment felt in the picture,
while the morning sunlight gives the best
effect to its attractiveness.
ESCAPED A BIDE ON SHOULDERS.
In common with other ports on the Syrian
coast Joppa has no harbor. To land there
is sometimes hazardous, even impossible,
and at best row boats have to be used in the
conveyance of people from ships to the city.
We were in good luck in that this means
was practicable, and escaped the experience
of being carried ashore on the shoulders of
brawny residents, whose financial interests
depend largely on the discomforts of other
people.
We took buta short time to our breakfast,
and soon started out to visit points named
prominently in sacred history. The identi
cal house on the seaside occupied by "Simon,
a tanner," has long since succumbed to the
decay wrought fay the long lapse of time,
but there is good'reason to believe that tra
dition does not err in pointing out the exact
spot where it stood and on which another
house now stands. As we stood on the roof
ot this building, which probably is exactly
like the one in which the Apostle Feter
lodged, Dr. Talmage read and expounded
Actsx.
A DKIlvKTEOM ST. PETEE'S WELL.
Before leaving this interesting place we
drank from the water of the sante well at
which St Peter quenched his thirst
When we returned to the hotel to lunch,
we found that our host outdid himself in the
warmth and abundance of his hospitality.
The principal dish set before us was a
turkev, the symbol of American good fare,
and the Stars and Stripes waved above the
building. Mr. Landlord expressed himself
delighted with the privilege of entertaining
Dr. Talmage, many of whose sermons he had
read with much interest In the assignment
of rooms for the party, my illustrious friend
got No. 33, which' is known as "Chinese
Gordon's room," the hero of Khartoum
having once occupied it
Strolling along the seaside, my memory
recalled -the friendship of Hiram, King of
Tyre, with David and his son Solomon, and
the cordial assistance he rendered in the con
struction of the temple and other buildings
at Jerusalem, in sending huge rafts of
timber from Lebanon to Joppa, then, as
now, the Port of the Holy City. It was at
Joppa too, that Jonah took ship when he
made the foolish effort to flee unto Tarsbish
from the presence of the Lord.
UNLIKE THE SEA SCENE.
Joppa has crooked streets. Many of its
houses are built of mud, and there is a great
deal of squalor to be seen in the city. The
suburbs are beautiful. Many garden orna
mented with stately trees adorn the prospect
and delight of the observer. I noticed palm
trees, cypresses, pomegranate, orange and
lemon trees. The hedges seem ,to be ex
clusively a rich growth of cactus". Every
where are evidences of exceeding fertility.
The soil from which such abundance springs
has been brought down by streams swollen
by heavy rains. ,
The next morning after our arrival in
Joppa, the Talmage party left lor Jerusa
lem, having secured the services of David
Jamal, a Nazarene, as dragoman. He is
the man who served in the same capacity
Dean Stanley, the Prince of Wales, the
Duke of Edinburgh and many other persons
of distinction in their visits to Palestine.
Jamal has been eminent among local draco
men during the past 20 years. It was under
his guidance that we inspected the site ol
the resurrection of Tabitha, "which by in
terpretation is called Dorcas."
THEY CELEBBATE HEB PESTrVAL.
The festival of Tabitha is celebrated near
Joppa, when the women of the neighbor
hood, dressed all in white, gather round a
fountain surrounded by orange trees, and
sacred to the memory of that sainted woman
and called by her name.
Our guide took US to the Jewish rnlnnir
under the direction of Baron Bothschild.
where Hebrew youths are educated as me
chanics, thns giving a practical turn to the
hope of every faithful Israelite that Pales
tine will yet become the country and home
of the chosen people. The bright and
healthy-looking Hebrew schoolboys one
sees in Joppa and the neighborhood gives
encouragement to the expectation that the
night of the race will be succeeded by a
bright morning.
Well out of Joppa on onr pilgrimage
Jeruwlemward, we looked back on a city
presenting a loay, castellated appearance
as seen from the landside. The city slopes
down toward the sea. At this season of the
year the loveliness of Sharon, through
which we passed, is less obvious than in the
springtime, but the fig tree and its support
ed vine, the numerous olive trees and the
general aspect of fertility brought to the
mind passages dear to the memory of the
Bible stndent
MANr LIKE BEBEKAH.
On our wayVe encountered quite a good
many people going to Joppa, among them
women in the blue cotton garb of poverty
and without veils, sad looking, many of
them, bnt with rood fentnw.. .) -o,ri
snJes , Jrh,ey ned burdens on their
heads of fuel, vegetables, etc, and walked
with the proud poise which these descend
ants of Bebekah possess without the need of
its conscious cultivation. Turkish soldiers
at guardhouses, fine, stalwart fellows,
cigarette in mouth, were passed at intervals,
and strings of camels loaded with goods.
Everywhere along the villages on the road
we saw large numbers of Hebrew people.
This circumstance deenlv interest,) n-
. Talmage. It seems that they are rapidly
PlTTSBtrKGr, SATURDAY, JANTJAET 18, 1890..
increasing in numbers, and the effect is a
natural one.of strengthening their confidence
that in the future they will again possess
the land.
We slopped at Eamleh for breakfast
This pretty little town, which boasts of
several thousand inhabitants, is claimed to
have been Arimathea, the birthplace and
residence of the loyal man who begged the
body of Jesus and provided for its sepul
ture. THE BUGGED VALE OP AJALON.
After leaving Bamleu we drove through
the valley of Ajalon, which is abont three
miles from Latrone, a village named in
memory of the penitent thief. The conntrv
thereabout is rugged to admiration. Pur
suers as well as rmrsned must nave endured
great fatigue, after the battle in which the
Amorites were defeated by Joshua when he
said: "Sun, stand thou still upon Gideon;
and thou, Moon, in the Valley of Ajalon."
Our faithful Jamal pointed out Gideon in
the distance as we speeded along our way.
The suu was now very hot and we fonnd our
ordinary clothing exceedingly burdensome.
In the early morning, however, our heavy
overcoats were necessary to comfort.
We stopped for luncheon at the gate of the
Valley of Ajalon. There, too, we changed
horses and rested about an hour, alter which
we resumed our journey. Very soon we
reached the hills on which David tended his
father's flocks.and where he successfully de
fended his charges from the lion and the
bear. A short distance beyond is the brook
Elah, whence that rnddy youth took the five
snjooth stones, with one of which he slew the
giant who defied the God of Israel. Here
was an opportunity for Dr. Talmage toen
rich his collection of curiosities. According
ly he dismounted from his horse, and, going
down to the brook, selected a number of just
such pebbles as he supposed were the choice
of David 3,000 years before.
We resume our ride for the last stage and
soon appear the evidenees that we are ap
proaching a great city. Bight before us
rise the walls of Jerusalem. Our hearts
beat faster as we see them, and faster still as
our approach becomes nearer. The sun was
jnst setting, gilding the walls and domes of
the city, as at 5 o'clock exactly, we entered
Jerusalem through the Joppa gate.
Louis Klopsch.
BELLEYUE ANNEXATION.
J. D. Watson, Esq., Sams Up tbe Arguments
in Favor Thereof Tersely.
J. D.Watson, Esq., a member of Bellevue
borough Council, admits that the body isn't
of much, use, bnt he says the reason is that
it can do nothing for want of funds, and the
people will not submit to being taxed to the
extent necessary to put the borough into
shape.
He says the roads are almost impassable,
but the taxation yields but 58,000 a year,
and after deducting $4,000 lor schools, which
can be but indifferently maintained for that
sum of money, and $2,000 for other neces
sary government purposes, there are bnt
$2,000 left, which is insufficient to make
and keep up even good boardwalks.
Mr. Watson states tnat annexation to Alle
gheny City wonld give them entrance to the
city toll free, as toll conld not be charged in
the citv limits, and they would get more for
$5,200 than they now do for $8,000. He also
states that if tbe boroogh is to be pnt into
shape demanded by intelligent public
opinion, it will necessitate an expenditure
for streets of $40,000; for public buildings,
$10,000; water works, $100,000; schools. $20.
000, and fire engine, $6,000, a total ol $170,
000 of a debt, the interest on which will be
$10,500, to say nothing of taxation to provide
a singing lund.
Mr. Watson also states that some non
property holder may go into court and force
the opening of some roads on which pro-
ceedings have been taken in court and
make the borough smart He contends
that personally he cares nothing about the
matter, but thinks annexation wonld be a
blessing, and opines that the opposition
comes largely from railway employes, as
annexation would cot benefit the railway
companies.
HELP FOE THE GIRLS.
An Entertainment to be Given tor the Benefit
of the Club.
The Working Girls' Club held a very in
teresting meeting Thursday. The new en
terprise is moving along cicely and the in
terest is increasing daily in its workings.
The club has now got past the first stage of
development and is in need of funds. The
kind ladies who have been pushing the en
terprise made the fact known among some
of their society friends in the East End and
a number of yonng ladies and gentlemen
have offered to give an entertainment next
Thursday for the benefit of the club.
At the meeting Thursday evening it was
decided to hold the entertainment in the
Palace Parlors next Thursday. Members
of tbe club have taken it upon themselves
to sell tickets for the entertainment It seems
a pity tbat a larger hall was not secured,
as it is understood that the entertainment
will be a novelty and no doubt will attract
many citizens, who at the same time can do
something for the club.
There has been a wrong impression scat
tered that it was a sectarian institution.
Tbe ladies are very earnest in wishing every
body to understand that it is non-sectarian
in every way and that it is wholly for the
mntual good of the girls. After the club is
put on a self-sustaining basis, the girls will
be expected to run it themselves and the
ladies' will "step down and out."
NATIONAL PRISON AFFAIRS.
Arrangements Soon to be Made for the
Next Congress.
Bev. J. L. Milligan, chaplain of the
Western Penitentiary and a member of the
Executive Committee of the National
Prison Association, will attend a meeting
of the committee in New York next JTues
day. The meeting is for the purpose of
arranging for the next congress of the asso
ciation. The matter of national representation to
the International Prison Congress, to be
held next September in St Petersburg, at
the invitation of the Czar of Bussia, will be
considered. Names of delegates will be
recommended to the Federal Government
for appointment Ex-President Hayes,
president of the national association, will
likely be one of the delegates.
WINTER EXCURSION.
The B. & O. Blake Final Arrangements for
tbo Annual Washington Trip.
E. D. Smith, Division Passenger Agent of
the Baltimore and Ohio road, has arranged
his annnal midwinter excursion to Wash
ington. The trip will start Thursday, Jan
uary 30. and return trips will be good for 10
days, allowing travelers to stop over at Bal
timore. This is the third season these ex
cursions have been in existence.
The former trips were eminently success
ful. No donbt is anticipated by Mr.
Smith, bnt that the publio will patronize
this trip, as the previous ones were. Two
Pullman cars will leave on the day ap
pointed, one in the morning and the other
in the evening.
NOW IN THE SCHOOLS.
I.a Grippe Tackles tbe Children and Keeps
Many of Them Home.
Sixty pupils failed to report at the Bed
ford schools yesterday. Some are known to
have a la grippe and the others are sup
posed to have beenkept away either by the
new disease or colds. To make matters
worse two of tbe teachers are sick with la
grippe.
A tour of the other Sonthside schools
failed to find any marked decrease in at
tendance. Several of the schools reported
that the attendance among the primary
scholars was below the standard, nut at
tributed it in a measure to the cold weather
BEANCH HIGH SCHOOL
New Scheme to Utilize Some of the
Spare Sonthside Booms,
TO SAVE PDPILS GOISG SO FAB.
Views of Different Principals Given Ee
gardlng the Hove.
SOME OF THE BEltEFITS POINTED OUT
The agitation started some time ago for a
high school on the Sonthside is not dead
by any means. When it was brought to
the notice of the Central Board it was talked
over and a decision rendered that there
could be but one high school in the
city without a special act of the
Legislature. There the matter has been
allowed to rest for some time, as
far as the Central Board is concerned. The
parents, however, are not satisfied, but are
looking around for further developments in
the work of obtaining a high school for the
Southside.
Some educators think that the Central
Board has taken a wrong view of the mean
ing conveyed by the words "high school."
They believe that saying, "There shall be
but one high school," does not necessarily
imply that there shall be but one bnilding,
or that the buildings connected with the
school should be in one spot, or that there
cannot be branches of the High School in
different sections of the city under the same
management as the High School.
A BRAND NEW SCHEME.
The latest scheme advanced is that high
school classes be taught in some of the va
cant rooms oi the houses on the Southside.
It is maintained that the high school classes,
in the first two years at least, could just as
well be taught in some of the empty school
rooms in the Southside as in the city. The
Knox School has rooms to spare, and so
have some of the other honSes.
A tour among the principals of the South
side found them all in favor of a high
school on that side of the river, with the
exception of the West End schools, includ
ing the Thad. Stevens, Biverside and
Luckey schools. Prof. Slattery, of the
Biverside Schools, said he couldn't see
where a high school on the Southside
would be of any benefit, especially as far as
the West End is concerned. If there should
be a high school on the Southside it would
probably be located near Twelfth street, to
make it central, and that wald not help
the West End, as their pupili might as well
go to the city as far as cost and distance are
concerned.
Prof. Slattery said that one objection he
saw to the plan of occupying the spare
rooms in some of the Southside buildings
was that all the teachers in the present High
School are specialists in their different lines
of teaching. If the plan proposed were
adopted, the pupils would not have this ad
vantage. IT IS A SERIOUS STUDY.
Continuing, Mr. Slattery said that from'
one standpoint an accessible High School
on the Southsidemightresultin more pupils
going to the Central High School. At pres
ent only about 5 per cent of those in the
Thirty-tonrth ward ever enter the High
School. Whether more would go could be
only ascertained by experiment If any
thing could be done to advance education
and induce the workingmen to have their
children climb higher than the ward schools
it should be done. As it is a great majority
of the pupils leave school and go to work
after they have reached the third-reader
grade.
Prof. A. C. McLean, of the Luckey
Schools, said he had been too busy endeav
oring to bring his schools up to the highest
grade possible and make them second to
none in the city, to think much on the
question. Being among the younger prin
cipals, he could not speak with weight in re
gard to Pittsburg, but thought it was a
grave problem, and should receive a good
aeal of thought and study before any move
Was made. Jf rot. McLean has a very large
attendance in his schools, and says he is
pleased with the outlook and hearty co
operation of all in that district for efficient
education.
Prof. John Golden, of the Bedford Schools,
said he did not see why it would be neces
sary to have a special act of the Legislature
to establish branches of the High School;
but of course there could not be a separate
high school, under a different Central
Board.
A MATTER OP DEFINITION.
He said it rested on the way you defined
"High School." Some school house might
be chosen, as suggested, for holding High
School classes, and a district divided off
wherein the High School scholars of certain
schools in the immediate neighborhood
conld attend. The teachers could still be un
der tbe control of the High School and, after
passing the first two years in this way, tbe
pupils could finishat the High School. It is
certainly a long distance for pupils to go to
attend the present High School, and, if such
a move would also result in more taking the
High School studies, it would be a good
thing for education. To say the least, the
proposition was worth earnest considera
tion. Miss Hare, Principal of the Birmingham
schools,said she was in favor of a high school
on the Southside;butshe would not have one
for a moment if the pupils conld not have
the same advantages as those in the present
High School. Prom the present state of the
problem she thinks that to divide the schools
would not give the pupils the advantage of
tbe use of tbe apparatus unless some scheme
cot yet formulated could be devised for
branch schools.
PEOPLE LAZY IN THIS AOE.
The genial lady principal is a strong ex
ponent of physical development She said
that the people of this age were inclined to
be lazy, and, by a too frequent use of street
ear, forgot that'it was good forthem to walk.
She said that in one iway she thought the
High School in its present site had been of
physical beneht to pupils. She has
not had a single case come to her knowledge
wherein the pupils were not healthier and
more rugged while attending High School,
or of one where they have suffered from the
exercise thns made compulsory.
Mrs. M. IS. Kedman, ot the Hnmboldt
Schools, said she was heartily in favor of a
high school on the Sonthside. Her assist
ant, Mary E. Lauffer, was also in favor of
tbe move.
Pror. W. J. McClnre, of the Morse
School, was in favor of a Southside High
School, or a branch of the present High
School, if such an arrangement conld be
made to work.' He said a very small per
centage of the pupils attended the High
School at present.
DOWN WITH THE GRIP.
Hair the Students of Odell Laid Up With the
Disease.
At Odeil College, distant 15 miles on the
line of the Panhandle Bailroad, one-half of
the students are suffering from la grippe.
Tbe disease, however, is in a mild form, and
no alarming symptoms have been thus far
manifested. The construction of a new
boarding house with a capacity for 150
guests has just been completed; this guar
antees ample accommodations for any ex
pected increase in the number of students
for the present or coming session.
Threatening Nen'York.
Nine Chinamen passed through the city
yesterday bound for New York in charge of
a contractor of their own race. He repre
sents a firm whose intention is to introduce
Chinese labor in New York. They will be
put to work as hod carriers, etc.
m
rHIfST "OF TH
NE evening in
February I was
idling on the ten
nis courts at
Trichinopoly, in
South India,
after tbe games
were over. The
men were gravi
tating toward the
club, bent on re
freshing them
selves with iced
drinks and whist;
tbe ladies were
sauntering about
in couples, or sitting in gronps under the
trees. The sun had set in a blaze of orange
light, and the hot fiery color still bathed
the sky and landscape, though it was fast
mellowing into a rich warm purple with
the rapidly advancing night of the tropics.
I was very hot from the exertion of the
game, and I plied my fan vigorously.
"You are just the person I want to see,
Mrs. Haddow," said a voice at my elbow.
I turned and saw Mrs. Savile, the Collect
or's wife. She and I had been together in
the station some two or three years, a long
time for India. During that time our ac
quaintance had ripened into friendship, for
we had many pursuits in common. She was
fond of painting, so was I. She sang di
vinely and I played her accompaniments.
We both devoured all the new books we
could lay our hands upon, and talked them
into shreds afterward.
"What is it? A new song, a new book, or
a new frock?" I asked.
"None of those fascinating subjects this
time. I have a new idea in my head," she
replied.
"Then hand it out at once. New ideas in
I SAT DOWN ON THE
this monotonous Indian life are as rare as
angels' visits."
"I want you to come with us to see tbe
new bridge and sluices over the river. They
are being rebuilt, and there is some dispute
about a bit of land. A small wayside tem
ple stands in the way of one of the piers, and
the people do not like to have it touched.
My husband has to decide whether it must
be removed, and he must go and see it"
"I shall be delighted to go. When and
how shall we get there?"
"It is about 15 miles from the town. We
shall post a pair of horses and drive. Col
onel Brevis, the superintending engineer.
will go with us; and we propose staying tbe
night at the engineer's bungalow, which is
close to the bridge. Can you go to-morrow
morning?"
"Yes, and as early as yon like."
"Take your sketching things. There are
some lovely bits for painting down there.
And now come for a moonlight drive."
So away we went, speeding over the dusty
roads toward the racecourse, in search of a
breeze.
HVery early the next morning, long before
daylight, I crept qnietly from my bed so as
not to disturb my husband. I "dressed and
breakfasted by lamplight, and hurried off to
Mr. Savile's house, close by. Tbe night air
waa sharp and heavy with dew. A beautiful
planet shone like a miniatnre moon in the
West, and the Southern cross was just in
clining toward its setting.
Mr. and Mrs. Savile were ready to start
when I arrived, and the servants were bust
ling about in the darkness of the morning,
swinging lanterns recklessly in their hands
as they passed up cloaks and shawls into
the carriage. We got in without delay, as
every moment before the rising of the sun
was precious. The horsekeepers stood aside,
and the strong, well-fed Australian horses
sprang impatiently forward to their work.
As we passed under the big banvan trees
tbat bordered tne drive, a green parrot flut
tered in the leaves above and called to his
fellows to awake. I looked toward the
East and saw a faint gleam of light
on the low, flat horizon. We left the well
kept, respectable cantonment behind and
reached the sleeping town. The roads be
came narrower and more dusty, and were
bordered by low mud houses. Through the
dim light of dawn I could distinguish the
slumbering forms of the natives, wrapped
in dirty sheets and lying in the happy nbli v
ionof deep slumber by the side of the foul
drains that ran the length of the streets.
The air oi the thickly populated town was
unwholesome and fetid, and it was a relief
to tbe senses wnen tbe JBiver Cauvery was
reached and the city passed.
We crossed by the bridge which had stood
many a flood, and fonnd ourselves in the
sacred island of Srirnngam.
Jnst before the river reaches Trichinopoly
it divides into two noble channels, each half
a mile wide, and forms an elongated island
of wondrous iertility. At the head and foot
ofthe island, where the stream parts and re
joins, there are enormous sluices, which
regulate the flow of water in June and De
cember. Twice a year tbis Nile of India,
which is said by the credulous natives to
have its source in the sacred fount of the
Ganges, poms down a big volume ot water,
some 25 feet deep a brown, whirling flood
that carries fertality in its waters in the
shape of a rich alluvial deposit Every drop
that passes through the sluices is utilized.
A vast network of channels carries it over
I Looked Toward the East.
n TTTnn nrT
K
mm bun
thousands of acres, and leaves nothing for
the devouring sea.
Alter passing the bridge, the road turned
sharply to tbe right, and we drove by pad
dyfields, cocoanut plantations, gardens of
betelnnt leaf, plantains and sugar cane, and
uuder avenues of tarnmrinds and banyans.
Tbe carriage lights were extinguished, for
the sun would soon monnt above the horizon,
dispelling tbe pale blue mists conjared up
in the night and the dewy haze that over
spread the rich, flat landscape. At the half
way point we found fresh horses, and in an
other hour we arrived at our destination.
We were all hungry and glad to find hot
coffee, toast and eggs awaiting us. The
servants, sent on over night had everything
prepared. After a hurried meal we started
out to see the bridge. Colonel Brevis and
Mr. Savile, accompanied by the engineer in
charge of tbe works, went to examine tbe
arches, some of which were already built,
and others were in course of construction.
Mrs. Savile and I, feeling disinclined to
walk in the sun, sat down under a shady
tamarind tree on the river banc and pre
pared to sketch.
"We will walk this evening after sun
down," said Mrs. Savile in answer to her
husband's invitation to accompany him to
the works.
The gentlemen were gone a long time. In
tbe fascination of the work tbey forgot the
sun, which in the sonth of Xndia bears very
great power in February, the heat and the
glare of the sand. So we strolled back to
the bungalow. We bathed, changed our
warm frocks for cooler ones and prepared
ourselves to spend a long day. Prom the
windows of the bungalow we could see up
the river. The Port Bock, at Trichinopoly,
crowned with its heathen temple, stood on
tbe horizon like a sentinel gnarding the pre
cious stream. A silvery streak of watei
wonnd its serpentine course through the
broad, gleaming bed of sand. Here and
there, still pools the home of the hideous
mugger or alligator shone with dazzling
light reflected from the sky. The low banks
were fringed with pampas grass and grace
ful palms; and herds of buffaloes wended
STEPS OP THE TEMPLE.
their way slowly down toward the water,
sinking knee-deep in the hot, dry, loose
sand.
Colonel Brevis, Mr. Savile and the en
gineer returned to the bungalow at 11, very
hot and sunbnrnt, and very thankful for
cold baths and a substantial breakfast.
"You ladies must really make an effort to
get as tar as the sluices this evening. They
are well worth seeing,' said Colonel
Brevis.
"We should like to do so Immediately, if
you can take us," replied Mrs. Savile.
"You must be prepared for a long walk.
The sluices are below the first bridge, which
you saw this morning, and which merely
crosses the overshoot of the river. This
'anient ' as the natives call it and we have
adopted this term is one of the largest irri
gation works in India," said the Colonel.
He took the greatest interest in all his en
gineering, and was especially fond of irriga
tion, as it brought wealth to the people of
the land.
At 6 in the evening we left the bnngalow
for our walk. I was very tired from the heat
and the early rising. Much as I wanted to
see the sluices I must confess to having
started very unwillingly. Mrs. Savile had
managed to sleep during the day, bnt the
mosquitoes had effectually destroyed my
slumbers.
We followed the same path that we took
in tbe morning. The snu was just dipping
below the horizon, leaving a path of molten
gold behind him. The yonng moon already
floated overhead, pale and sickly before the
glory of the west The ground was hot be
neath our feet, and the air still and breath
less. It was a fortrnnner of the hot weath
er, which in a month would be upon us an
evening to sit still under the trees rather
than to take a stiff walk. Arrived at the
river bank, we stepped down into the dry,
sandy bed. The sand was warm and closed
over our feet at each step almost to our
ankles. .We walked or rather, I should
say paddled heavily through it, by the
great arches and piers that looked enormous,
now we were Deiow mem. a oroad, shal
low stream of water tricbled under the
last completed arch, and we crossed the
wster by a rough, temporary bridge of
planks.
Underneath this last arch, and standing
about the center of the river bed, was a
small temple, built of granite upon the firm
foundation of a rock that upreared itself in
the very middle of the river's course.
"What is this? A temple?" I exclaimed.
"What an extraordinary place to choose
for it," said Mrs. Savile at the same mo
ment "Yes. It was pnt there long before an
English engineer laid his finger on the
works. This bridge is built on magnificent
foundations, which were laid long ago by
some wise old rajah, who knew the valne of
the waters to himself and his people," said
Colonel Brevis.
"And do you mean to say that the founda
tions, made so long ago, still stand?" ex
claimed Mrs. Savile.
"They not only stand, but are as good, if
not better, than anything we could make
ourselves. You see how we value them by
adopting them. We are obliged to give the
bridge a serpentine course, you observe.
Mr. Jumes, here, will tell you that building
arches on the curve is no easy matter."
"Is tbis the temple that is the subject of
the dispute?"
"No; there is no dispnte abont this. Twice
a year, just before eaen monsoon, the na
tives come and do 'poojah' here. They are
firmly convinced that the number of goats
and fowls sacrificed to the presiding deity of
the river will influence the abundance of
the water. Government never interferes with
tbe religion of the people, as you know; so
we'are directed to leave the temple where it
is and build oararch over it"
"But, surely, the water will wash a bnild
ing like that away?"
"No; at fnll flood it rises to the base of the
temple, but it does not reach high enough to
displace it The temple is very old, and in
olden days, I dare say, this has been the
scene of many a hnman sacrifice."
"How horriblel" said Mrs.Savile. "Come
along; let us go on with our walk," she con
tinned, leading the way.
Bnt X lingered behind. Somehow the scene
faseinated me. The stream murmured pleas
antly as it cowed past the piers, and the
luuuu, wuicu gaiuereu iigut
BVSlW (HAMJkitt I !
in the rapidly advancing darkness of the
troples, silvered tie rippling water below, I
-.J warai i
"Let me stay here till you return. X so
tired and disinclined to walk." I pleaded.
"Leave you here alone? Why, we shall be:
gone an hour or morel" cried Mrs. Savile,
stopping and turning back.
"Never mind. I shall enjoy it"
'"You need not bealone," said Colonel Bre
vis. "I can call a peon (or messenger). I told a
man to wait for us on tbe opposite bank in
case we wanted anyone to carry coats or
wraps." Hedrewont a silver whistle and
blew a shrill blast A voice in the distance
answered "Sah'b!"and presently an old
man came ont of tbe gathering darkness and
stood before ns.
"Bamalingnm, stay here with this lady
and take care of her till we return."
The old man bowed low and touched his
forehead with his fingers.
The party then hurried off and plodded
their way through the soft sand till they
were lost in tbe silver-gray moonlight
I tnrned to the quaint temple. It stood un
der the shade of the archway, just jutting
$&J15 t MfPm
:fer
Under a Shady Tamarind Tree.
ont far enough to rear its strange figured
roof above the bridge. It looked down the
river branch as thongh joyously mindful of
every drop of waste water that went over
the shoot The stream that owed its sonrce
at the present time to hidden springs in the
river bed washed the great rock on which
the temple stood and tnrned sharply to the
left, leaving a broad suit of sand immediate
ly in front The river bed was fringed with,
cocoanuts, and, though small in comparison
with the Cauvery itself, it was many times
broader than onr English Thames.
I sat down on the steps of the temple. They
were cnt in the living rock, and were worn
smooth by the action of the water, and by
the thousands of worshipers' feet. Old
Bamalingnm squatted in the fashion of his
country below me, close to the water's
edge. He did not look at me, but buried his
face between his knees, and appeared to
sleep. Doubtless the old man had had his
evening meal ot curry and rice, and the
sweet, natty poppy-seeds that flavored his
dish were beginning to take effect and bring
him blissful dreams.
I wished I had brought pencil and paper,
for T could have sketched in black and
white. However, I was not sorry to sit idle
and rest I had no fear of robbers or wild
beasts. A native watchman was, X knew,
sitting at the other end of the bridge, and
the peon was here at my feet The water
lapping tbe piers sonnded cool and refresh
ing and broke the silence of the night Far
away in the distance the jackals occasion
ally raised their melancholy howl, or a gray
monkey, disturbed from its slumbers in the
tamarind top, gave a shrill scream.
I had sat thus for 15 or 20 minutes when
I heard a slight noise behind me. I tnrned
and saw an old man with close shaven head.
His wrinkled forehead was marked with
the trident that claimed him for one of
Vishnu's own. A loin cloth wrapped
closely round his body was his sole gar
ment His chest was smeared with sacred
ashes, and bore a second trident in bright
pigment
He was the caste man in charge of the
temple, no doubt a person held in great ven
eration by its votaries. The door of the
building was open, and there was a lamp
burning dimly before the rude idol inside.
The image shone in the yellow light with
the anointing oil, and was adorned with a
wreath of faded oleander flowers. A smell
of burning incense and oil came out and
mingled with the nightair.
Bamalingnm raised his head and spoke to
the old man in Tamil.
"What does the old man say?" I asked,
after the two had conversed for soma
minutes.
"He says very glad missus come to sit
here," replied the peon in his Madrassee En
glish. I was surprised, as I quite expected to
hear that my presence was considered a pol
lution.
"Why ia he glad? Do I bring good luck?"
X asked.
The curious old pair approached me, and
Bamalingnm pointed to my hand, on the1
1 Smiled at Their Queer Fancieu
back of which was a large brown mole a)
disfigurement X had often considered It in
my youth.
"That mark, good mark. This day, good
day," and Bamalingnm pointed to the waxt
ing moon. The temple man waa still closely
regarding me. He seemed fascinated by my
appearance. Again he spoke in his own
language to the peon, and from the little I
tJn ATfP A t T Hal m A .a T2 T. f A .
' j.mun ue was asung aim questions
which he would not answer.
"Tell me what he says, Bamalingnm: X
shall not be angry," I said encouragingly,
for the old man interested me in my idle
ness. They made such a harmonious fore
ground to the tropical moonlit landscape;
upon which X was feasting my eyes.
"He asks what year missus born, and
what month." '
I told him, and the old man's eyes abso
lutely glittered with delight He clasped
his hands together with an ecstatic gesture
and exclaimed, "Swamil swamil"
"Plenty good water coming; plenty rice
missus bripg good luck to river."
I smiled at their queer fancies.
"Yes; I hope the water will come when
the bridge and the sluices are ready. How
long have yon known the river?" I asked
the old guardian of the temple, the peon,
translating.
"Seventy years," was the answer.
"How many big floods have yon seen?"
"Ah! too many to count"
"And famine times when no water
came?"
"Six," whispered the old man, looking nn
easily at the staring stone image that he had
tesueu lor mree-score years and ten. It
was considered unlucky to mention evil
times or sickness so near the temple.
""One year, very bad year. Swam! very
angry. People killing no goats, no fowls:
forgetting Swami thirsty, wanting blood.
Swami shut up the clouds and lock up the
water. Not one drop coming. No rice, no
eocoannts. no plantains. People very side
and die; cattle die, all die," and the man
shook his head mysteriously.
"Bnt the water came next year?"
"Yes; Swami drink the blood of one Brah
min girl. Then Swami pleased and send big
flood." This savored of human sacrifice, and &
shudder passed over me. A light mist waa
floating over the water, and tho moon waa
aimmea dj a lormiess vapor. The light had
died out of the West, and a fitful breeae Mew
np the river into my face.
"It is getting cold: I will m tj,v ,.
uuuKBiun, ' ssuu K US peon.
mIiim $9 Y f .1 A Aft- . "
Tha otbk MMrtffl fenrsid ud saeke vslaf '
My, ",'ww5tWu
wmt
iiWmIVHv ft ill
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