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THE PITTSBURG DISP1TCH
?iF PAGES 17 "70.20. i
THIRD PART.
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PITTSBURG, STTNDAY, OCTOBER 13, 1889.
SUMMERJNALASIU.
A Trip Across the Continent
and Through Puget Sound
to Columbia's
LANDOFTHEMIDNIGHTSUN
A Beautiful Cily Peopled Exclusively
by Anglo-Maniacs.
TIEWI5G THE 1IIGHTI MUIS GLACIER
The Overland Kontc Across the Bocky
Mountains The Magical CItr of Ta
coma Sailing on the Northern Seas
Tbe Pretty, bat Behind tbe Timet, City
of Victoria. A Sportsman's Paradise
KecelTlng a Serenade Party A VUIt to
Fort Wrancel A Frozen Torrent 500
Feet Deep nad Miles Lone.
CfUM-H?
in vSmlm
y vm
laliiOli
Is
nvmiTW Ton raz dispatch.
HAT Alaska
selected by com
paratively few for
a summer trip is a
great mistake. The
annual hegira to
seashore or to
rjly 53 l -kurope is usually
lis?., yjllll attended with as
l -jf, .r V much expense and
probably more dis
comfort, with less
novelty, than a
jaunt to this Amer-
llll ican Norway and
Switzerland combined the borne of the
Si wash and the haunts of the salmon and the
seal. A country in extent more than 12
times as large aspur State of Pennsylvania.
From Pittsburg to Tacoma, on Puget
Sound, the starting point lor Alaskan
waters, there is, of course-, much of interest,
but the reader must hurry with me to Chi
cago, thence along the border of a great
lake, through Milwaukee, past the bluffs of
the "Father of Waters" to St. Paul, and
tbeuce westward over the broad expanse of
billowy prairie, trackless as the ocean save
lor the half concealed "wallows" and trails
of the now almost extinct buffalo, whose
bones, whitened by the sun, dot the green,
aud tell of the sportsman's vandalism.
Here and there a "shak" or hut or Indian
As we sail behind the great island through
the Gulf of Georgia numerous inlets and
small islands vary the scene, and with the
land-locked eea as a base, the vistas through
the islands with green-clad mountains in
the foreground to the hazy blue and purple
summits in the distance, -give the imagina
tion scope and charm the eye. Thus we
wind in andut of these sinuous passages
too numerous to name here, and the beauties
of which there is not space enough even to
attempt to describe, for nearly 600 miles,
and occasionally looting out into
the exeat Pacific arriving at
Fort Tongas, the most southern point of J
Al&Bka.
A SPOBTSMAX'S PABADISE.
During this time we have been running
through a veritable sportsman's paradise
2
Totem at fort Wrangle.
one might land at almost any point and find
small game and large in abundance ducks
and other water fowl, bear, deer, mountain
goat, etc
Our ship's company contented themselves
with fishing from the steamer with troll
lines and many large beauties were caught
in this way. So congenial were our sur
roundings and company that as we moved
northward and the daysand twilight length
ened, very little time was consumea in
sleep, and post prandial promenades were
kept up until, sometimes, 12 o'clock.
On one or two occasions the ladies
went to the "galleys" or kitchen
and made taffy and sugir candy
and all who cared to join could lend a hand
at the "pulling." The captain's guitar and
one other aboard were often brought into
service to accompany a chorus of voices, and
general good humor prevailed. An amus
ing incident of a decided farce-comedy
nature occured one evening.
Tklinkets, are all expert in carving, and
their household utensils bear curious crests
and figures but more of that anon.
( A VALUABLE GOLD MIKE.
Our next ston is nt thn ntv nt .Tnnfftn.
lying on a gentle declivity at the base of a
huge mountain. , It is one of the largest
towns of Alaska, having about 2,000 inhabi
tants, including, always, the Indians. Snow
capped mountains are In view on every
hand, and streams uppminc like silver
threads cut the black and green of their J
siaes, out viewed through the glass these
waters are rushing torrents of melted
snow. Opposite, on Douglas Island, is the
great Treadwell gold mine, with its 250
stamp mill running night and day crushing
the quartz, which assays from 57 to 510 per
ton, and enough in sight to last 50 years.
Leaving here, higher still we go through
this maze of marine pictures to Chilcat, the
most northerly point touched by regular
ships. Here, in Pyramid harbor, we anchor
in view of Chilcat Peak, rising 4,000 feet
above the level of the sea. "We are now
about the 60 parallel, and, although snow
mountains may be seen all around us, yet it
is not so cold as the latitude would suggest.
Heavy clothing is comfortable, but the ther
mometer does not register more than 40..
Nature has provided a warm stream to tem
per these northern shores, called theKuro
siwo, or Japan current, which flows around
the islands and up into Behring Sea, making
the climate of the whole coast one of the
most equitable in the world. The winters
are not severe, the summers delightfully
cool, the only seeming drawback
being the humidity of the atmosphere. The
rainy season is long and the rain comes
down "with the wet side out," In fact at
Sitka I was told confidentially that the only
difference in the climate there, seemed to be
that it rained harder some days than others.
"We can now read our books until 11
o'clock p. m., and the after glow lasts until
almost 12 o'clock. United States Marshal
AdEins, at Sitka, told me that in June they
played tennis there until 12 o'clock P. M.,
and only slopped then because they were
tired. At that time, allowing for twilight
and the breaking of the dawn there is prac
tically no night.
From this point we come south again and
round the Dome Peak Mountain into Icy
Strait, and again steer northward to
Glacier Bay, and in seemingly strange
waters, looking upon shore and mountains,
whiph seem to burst for the first time upon
the view of man, and five great glaciers in
the distance, four of which we pass with only
a wondering gaze. Thus, on August 11, we
near Muir Inlet, approaching a narrow pass
age of the great deep.
WE BANK WITH HIGS
Americans Who Have Enjoyed the
Warm Friendship of Boyalty.
CHARMED BY TAHKEE VIVACITY
WhJch Considers an Emperor S3 Good as
Any Other Man.
WAT TflE PARYENU8 ABE JEALOUS
rCOHRESFON-DENCE OV TBI DISPATCH.
Paeis, October 2. It is a curious fact,
and one only just beginning to be compre
hended in the United States, that Americans
of both sexes have, atone time or another, en
joyed far more popularity with royal person
ages than have any Europeans of a rank be
low that of the highest aristocracy. A very
intelligent explanation has been given of
this. In Europe everybody, outside of the
charmed circle immediately surrounding
kings and queens, stands so much in awe of
the sovereign and the royal family that they
are formal and constrained in
the presence of even the remotest
relative of a crowned head. Americans,
on the other hand, while rendering all due
respect to the Prince and Princess to whom
they may have been introduced, are wont to
chat with them agreeably and vivaciously
as with any other acquaintance, without
being struck dumb by the high station of
august personage, une can reauiiy
the
aiiliW'wgJi
SAILING HfTO GLACIEB BAT.
"teppee," and the tall form of a Cree or
Sioux, enveloped in his bright red blanket,
lnds variety and color to the scene as we
speed along the Yellowstone in the palatial
coaches of tbe modern railroad.
THE CUT OP TACOMA.
Approaching the slope of the Eocky range,
up and through its gorges, our train'whirls.
now skirting a mountain lake or stream and
now disturbing the stately whisperings of
the pines; winding down the western slope,
we near the great Pacific, upon whose waters
our ship will soon glide to still higher lati
tudes, and soon reach the northern gateway
of this mighty ocean. Puget Sound rival
ing in size the great waters of Long Island
where, sitting in state on a bluff overlook
ing the water, is the city of Tacoma, won
derfully alive and bustling, a magical city
which seems to have sprung from the stroke
of an enchanter's wand, so suddenlv was it
ushered into the world of business activity.
From the broad verandas of the principal
hotel, looking southward, may be seen the
snow-crowned Mount Tacoma rising in
grandenr 14,440 feet, without companions to
detract from its imposing height. Thus it
seems more majestic than Mount Blanc, aud
yet is almost a pigmy to the great sentinel
of the North, Mount St Ellas, who rears
his hoary head near the solemn stillness of
the Arctic circle, rising from the level of
the sea 20,000 feet, a fitting monument to
stand in the northern confines of our great
nation, and toward whose base our civiliza
tion is slowly moving. How near to nature's
God he standv! "What mighty secrets and
memories of chaos he holds in bis broad
breast since the first call to his silent watch
through the ages.
From Tacoma we start on the freight and
passenger steamer George "W. Elder. She
comes from Portland and is two days late.
The traveler must not be in a hurry for
there is as yet no choice of routes to these
Northern seas or method of conveyance save
those vessels of the Pacific Coast Steamship
Company scheduled to sail in summerabout
every ten days. However, one of tbe charms
of the trip, to those tecking rest or surcease
of annoyance, is the fact that our good snip
is to be our home for about three weeks and
no railroad or cable shall bring us ill tidings
to mar the dolce far niente of this journey of
pictures.
AWAT TO THE 2JORTH.
All in readiness, a command Irom Captain
Hunter from "the bridge" lines were cast
off, a splash the whirr of the screw and
we are off. Our good ship is 250 feet long,
about 30 feet beam and 1,800 gross tons bur
den, and her passenger list numbers 130,
quite evenly divided as to sex and repre
senting many localities, mostly from the
"Western slope, but many from the more
Eastern States, and one or two from En
gland. The smoke from 'forest fires prevent our
view along the Sonnd, and we spend the day
in getting things to rights between decks
until tbe first stop, Port Townsend, where
coal and some freight were taken, and then
sail was set across to Vancouver's Island,
where we landed at Victoria, its only city,
but a most beautiful and peaceful abode of
quiet sad conservative people, more English
than England, good roads aud beautiful
drives, homes embowered in flowers; the
denizens an easy going people, a generation
behind the times, haying very little regard
for Canadians and ignoring tbe "bloomin'
Yankee, don't yer kuow."
After a stop of half a day we leave this
place in our wake and push northward still,
the great pine-clad and mountainous island
of Vancouver on our seaward hand for a dis
tance of 300 miles, and the mainland of
British Columbia on our leit "We can
. hardly believe our ship is on the salt waters
-ot me oceau, so peatci ui us lace, out
fathom upon fathom deep drops the lead. No
worses, siecness save at snort intervals
; cross channels leading out to sea.
Four bright young ladies who were travel
ing together two from Portland and two
from England bad one of the large outside
staterooms on the main deck. The door
faced the sea and the narrow promenade
passing it. For better ventilation they had,
hung a large shawl over this portal leaving
a small transom above. So on tbe night
spoken of when these fair passengers had
presumably, just retired, the lights having
gone out, the writer with some
others formed a serenading party
and took position just outside the door,
raising our voices, good, bad and
indifferent, to the air or "Good Night, La
dies." The first bar had scarce been passed
when simultaneously from each of the four
corners oi tne snawi-covercd door appeared
a delicately-shaped wrist and hand bearing
some biscuit, and lour musical voices
shouted thanksl The effect was too much
for the serenaders and we retired in "har
monious confusion." At times we had
vocal and piano music in the cabin, and a
donkey party was proposed.but fell through
on account of our not being able to find or
rather draw the donkey.
"We had on board en route to his
home at Metla-Keh-tla the Bev.
THE MUIB GLACIER.
Flanked on either side by dark green
clad hills soon we emerge into the great bay
filled with floating ice, which seems at first
like a flock of huge white swans gliding
about Then we feel the chilly breath of
the great ice monsters in the distance, and
as we move along the ice begins to grow
into larger bodies resembling castles of mar
ble or iridiscent glass or assume fantastic
shapes as of animals huge beings sculp
tured by some cyclopean hand. Among
these we move slowly in and out say 20
miles and enter Muir Inlet, the head of
which is closed with ice. Slowly we move
toward the base of this frozen torrent The
shores, scarce a mile away on either side,are
now bleak and rocky; vegetation has disap
peared; on ahead the mountains rear their
irosted heads high in the distance and their
scarred faces look down upon the frozen
monster which seems to writhe between and
around them with outstretched arms like a
huge octopus. Struggling and glistcningin
the sun it moves toward the sea, but, stayed
by a mighty hand, pauses before making
the final plunge into the aqueous depths.
This is the Muir glacier.
As the Grand Canyon is to "the Yellow
stone" so is Glacier Bay to tbe Alaskan
grandeur the crowning leature. This is
nature's studio of sculpture, that her school
of painting. Both are inspiring. One
with the warmth of color and enchantment
of fairyland, the other cold, statuesque
grandeur that awes and enthralls the ad
miring senses. Here is a frozen cataract
with its two miles of front, beautifully blue
in the recesses of its stalactites. Imagine a
score of Niagaras frozen from base to brink,
with 30 feet added at some points for height,
and place them side by side; then you have
some idea of tbe face of the Muir rising out
of the sea, and it extends down into the
water 450 feet. It widens and deepens for
miles back between the mountains, thou
sands of feet above the sea. Then think of
the sun's ravs glistening from the myriads
of pinnacles, and the rainbow tints playing
about its face, as with a kiss and roar, huge
icebergs dislodge and drop into the sea;
down, down they go a hundred fathoms,
sending the water in sprav high in air, and
then, rising slowly to the surface, float off
with the tide to melt in tbe warm embrace
of the southern winds. This vast body of
ice is moving at an average rate of 40 feet a
dav, according to measurements made by
Prof. G. F. "Wright S. O. E.
TEN CEKTS A DAI P0K POOD.
fiSf
Bunting in the Arctic Regions.
"William Duncan, a Scotch Presbyterian
missionary, who has been 30 years among
the Indians of Alaska aud British Co
lumbia, having learned their language and
devoting his life to teaching them. He has
a colony of about 2,000 Indians at the above
named place, and is in a certain sense their
chief,'
POET WEAlfGEL.
Leaving Fort Tongas we still sail north
ward through tbe inland sen and among the
islands ofthe so-called Sitkan archipelago,
which skirt the coast of the mainland for
about 400 miles, and stop at intervals to
land freight and allow the passengers to
wander among the huts of the Indians.
Finally we arrive at Fort "Wrangel, an In
dian village, having a few white traders,
and formerly a trading post and base of sup
plies for a large mining district of British
Columbia which lay in the interior. As we
fire the anchor gun there is a general stir on
shore. Tbe Indian curio women don their
bright colored wraps and prepare for the
siege of curiosity hunters, and while they
cannot understand onr tongue they have
learned the value of our money. "We land
on a pebbly beach strewn with graceful
canoes and varigated with the brown green
wash of moss and "kelp" from the sea.
"While the ship unloads her cargo we wander
about viewing the low wooden huts and
their quaint and swarthy occupants who
will sell anything they have from a basket
or horn spoon to a papoose. Here are also
many graves with curious carved wooden
figures upon them; also tall carved wooden
monuments, o totem poles, which are used
by these Indians for much the same purpose
and with the same pride of ancestry as the
crests of European families. These carv
ings are symbolical and tell their own story.
They are figures of the bear, wolf; eagle,
whale, salmon, etc These Indians, mostly
The Small Sam on Which a Millionaire
Lived for IS Years.
Brooklyn Citizen.;
"I will tell you," said a Citizen reader,
"the story of a man whose name is as
familiar to Brooklynites and as well known
in his own line of trade in both America
and Europe as that of Frederick Loesser,
and if his name were known it would cre
ate no end of talk in the town. He was
born in Enrope, and while yet a boy started
out to earn his living by peddling knick
knacks. He would never refuse a bargain
of any sort, and would take pieces of old
iron in exchange for calico dresses when the
buyer had no cash. Traveling from town to
town and from country to country, he lived
for 18 years on 10 cents a day except when
some good natured people he called ou
would ask him to stay for dinner, on which
occasion the day's expenses for food was
nothing. "
He,finally invested bis savings in a store
business that prospered mightily; and now
for 15 years or more has been a retired
merchant, a silent partner in a big business
house which pays hira liberally lor the use
of his firm name. He lives "like a prince"
on his income, and feels well rewarded in
the latter naif ot his life for the self-denial
and privations of the first half. And no
body would begrudge him the enjoyment
of a third half, if he could live long enough
to realize that Hibernian idea. But not
every one who lives on 10 cents a day is as
fortunate."
imagine what a Pleasant change such
bright and unrestrained conversation must
be to those whose intercourse with bis or
her countrymen and women, outside the im
mediate group of personal attendants, is
limited to "Yes, Your Highness," or "No,
Your Highness," uttered with bated breath
and with an air of intense reverence.
Before the United States was scarcely a
nation there were cases of Americans hob
nobbing with the rulers of the "effete mon
archies." Paul Jones, for instance, the
famous naval hero, was on the best of terms
with Louis XVI. of France, and with Cath
erine of Bussia, before the advent of '89;
Connt Bumford, a native of Massachusetts,
who lived and flourished at the same period,
was the closest friend and political adviser
of the Elector of Bavaria; Washington Ir
ving once trotted Eugenie, when she was a
child, upon his knee, and entertained Na
poleon III. at Sunnyside; while, to cite an
example from the other sex, we have the case
of tbe daughter of General Cadwalader, of
Philadelphia, whose daughter Frances mar
ried into the great Erskine family of Eng
land, whose descendants to-day include the
present Duke ot Portland and the son of
Lord Archibald Campbell, prospective Duke
of Argyll. But to return to more modern
times.
SOME MODERN INSTANCES.
"One of the earliest on record of these
friendships," says an American lady, whom
I shall have occasion to quote several times
in this letter, "was that of Mme. Van der
"Weyer, formerly Miss Bates, of Boston,
with Queen Victoria. It was a strong per
sonal attachment on both sides, and was
only broken by the death of the American.
"Mrs. Henry Butterfield, of Paris, origi
nally Miss Mary Burke, of New York, and
the niece of the late Judge Boosevelt, con
tinues my correspondent, to whom I leave
all the responsibility of her contributions to
this letter, "was a great favorite with tbe
brilliant and charming Qrand Duchess
Marie of Bussia, the great-aunt of the pres
ent Czar, who, during the period of the Sec
ond Empire in France, was one of the most
admired ladies in Europe, and a leader of
fashion as well, despite the influence of the
Euutress Eugenie. Mrs. Butterfield was
celebrated for her elegance ot manner and
her taste in dress, and the Grand Duchess
tried vainly to induce her aud her husband
to quit their home in Paris for one in St
Petersburg, offering to the lady a prominent
post in her own household. But the health
of Mrs. Butterfield was always delicate, and
her husband feared the trying effects for her
ot the Russian climate; so the offer was de
clined. She afterward died of consumption
in Paris.
"In earlier days also the beauty and win
ning ways of an American young lady had
won for her unusual attentions and privi
leges at the Imperial court Miss Mary
Talmadge, afterward Mrs. Philip van Ben
sellaer, ot New York, was visiting during
the reign of the Czar Nicholas, the family
of Lord Durham, then British Ambassador
to St. Petersburg. She was one ot the most
striking of the many handsome American
ladies who have at one time or another vis
ited Europe. The Czarina, attracted by ber
gentle and graceful manners as well as by
her personal charms, took a great fancy to
her, commanded her presence continually at
the court entertainments, and showered
upon her attentions and civilities with an
unsparing hand. But Miss Talmadge was
not to be induced to tace up her abode in
Bussia, though urged to do so by the Em
press, who desired to keep her lair Ameri
can friend beside her throne.
EUGENIE'S FBIEND.
"The rigid etiquette of a parvenu court
prevented the Empress Eugenie from form
ing any actual personal friendships among
personages who were not of royal blood, but
she always manifested a great "liking for the
Baroness dePierres, who was formerly Miss
Thorn, of New York, and who was one of
her ladies-in-waiting. She forms one, and
that among tbe fairest of the charming
group, painted bv Wiuterhalter, of the Em
press and her ladies.
"The Duchess of Edinbnrg (formerly the
Grand Duchess Marie of Bussia, and "only
daughter of the late Czar, Alexander IL")
has always manifested a strong preference
for American ladies. The Duchess is of a
very reserved disposition and is averse to
forming friendships with anyone. But the
musical talent and winning manners of
Lady Bandolph Churchill (who was, as will
doubtless be remembered, Miss Jerome, of
New York,) has gained for that lady a
marked share of favor in the eyes of the
Duchess, who is, by tbe way, one of the
most accomplished royal ladies in Europe,
being not only a good musician, but a lin
guist of extraordinary acquirements. She
spends a good deal of time at her piano, and
one. "Thank Godl" exclaimed the Em
peror, shaking the considerate official warm
ly by the hand. And from that hour dated
his strong friendship for Mr. Boker, a liking
which was so great that when a new Presi
dent was elected the Czar made personal
request ot the "Washington Government that
Mr. Boker should be left unmolested at his
post But the exigencies of the new ad
ministration, would not admit of granting
the imperial request
"One can scarcely honor with the name of
friendship the little flirtations of the Prince
of "Wales with pretty American girls, their
name being legion (that of the flirtations be
it understood), But he has shown a very
genuine and marked degree of friendship
for Mrs. John W. Mackay" whose splendid
entertainments in his honor have been the
talk of all London. The first of these took
place three years ago, and the latest one
during the past summer. Mrs. Mackay's
wedding gift to the Princess Louise of
Wales, a pair of turquoise earrings, each
turquoise the size of a large hazel nut and
surrounded with diamonds, was among
the most superb and unique of offerings re
ceived by the youthful bride.
MBS. MACKAT'S EOTAL PEIENDS.
"During her residence in Paris Mrs. Mac
kay was tbe object of great personal liking
and many attentions from the ex-Queen Isa
bella of Spain. Tie royal lady never failed
to remem Der the birthday of her American
friend, and to send her some gift in com
memoration of the day. Mrs. Mackay is an
accomplished linguist, and speaks Spanish
to perfection, so that the Queen used to de
light in conversing with ber in Castilian.
Mrs. Mackay was the first person in Paris
to whom the Queen sent the news of the
hopes given by the condition of Queen
Christine of the advent of an heir to the
Spanish throne.
"The Princess Louise and the Marauia of
Lome have been also brilliantly entertained
by Mrs. Mackey this season.
"The Countess "Walderseej formerly Prin
cess Noer, and originally Miss Lee, of New
York, is the intimate friend of the present
Empress of Germany, and shares with her
husband the friendship of the Emperor. In
the lifetime of the late Emperor Frederick,
his intellectual wife, both as Crown Princess
and Empress, was wont to occasionally snub
her daughter-in-law, who was dull aud
commonplace, and by no means congenial
to the cleverest of the daughters of Queen
Victoria. On these occasions, the Coun
tess, filled with sympathy for the
Princess, used to show her a degree of
kindness and attention then especially wel
come, because so rare. She thus completely
won the heart of the lady who was so soon
and so unexpectedly to become the Empress
of Germany. For in those days there was
every prospect of the enjoyment by the
Crown Prrnce .Frederick ot as long a reign
as that of his father. Another strong bond
ot union between Mme. de Waldersee and
the Empress is their mutual devotion to the
Evangelical religion, the national faith of
Germany.
"Miss Jennie Chamberlain, of Cleveland,
who recently married Captain Naylor Ley
land, of England, was a great favorite with
the Duchess of Albany, and used to receive
countless invitations Irom that lady before
the death of her husband, Prince Leopold,
condemned her to strict seclusion."
BBITISH JEALOUS?.
The favor shown to American ladies and
gentlemen, and especially to the former, by
the members of the royal family of England,
is looked upon with signal disapprobation,
not only by the British aristocracy, but
by wealthy English tradespeople and
noveaux riches. They cannot understand
the interest taken by their princes aud
princesses in these Transatlantic strangers,
and tbe last-named class resent the fact that,
while the severe laws of British caste pre
vent their social recognition by princes or
peers, these republicans from across the sea
win favor and admission to circles that they
may never hope to enter. They forget the
fact that the favor shown to an American
by a royal personage brings after it
no consequences. It is not necessary
for him or her to receive Mr. X, of
Chicago, on account of the reception of Mr.
Z , of Omaha. But if Mr. A , the
wealthy jeweler of Bond street, were to win
such. recognition, Mr. B , the great
coach builder, ot Longacre, and Mr. C ,
the famous porcelain manufacturer, and so
on through an endless succession of
alphabets, would have a right to equal
social acceptation. Moreover Americans
have one quality that is unspeakably
precious in the dull heaviness of the social
circles presided over by royalty. They are
amusing. They know how to talk, and
they practice the knowledge. And they are
not to be scared into silence by the aspect of
a fair-faced, pleasant lady even though she
be an Archduchess, or by that of a genial
gentleman because he happens to have
been born a Prince.
Theodobe Stanton.
MONKS OF ST. BBMO.
A Visit to tho Famous Monastery of
Grande Chartreuse and
ITS PROFITABLE DISTILLERY.
How the Hospitable Brethren Work. Wdr-
ship and Live.
AN 0BDER EIGHT HDKDBED XEABS OLD
icoBsxsroHsixcx or the dispatch.
Paeis, September 27.
ID you ever notice
what a pleasant effect
a little glass of "aid
to digestion" liquor
has on a man after a
good dinner, and for
that matter on woman
also? On such occa
sions one may safely
drink a "petit verre"
of fine brandy, kum
mel, benedictine, or
chartreuse. A little
chartreuse, yellow or
green, according to
taste jaune is the best is just the thing,
and with that inside your stomach you'll
feel as if all your debts were paid, and noth
ing in the world to worry about
At the foot of a mountain quite 4,000 feet
high, and on which the monks of Grand
Chartreuse live, is where a few holy fathers
of that order superintend the fabrication of
this famous liquor. It is sot an easy thing
though to obtain admittance to the manu
factory, aud there are placards stuck up in
public places to the effect that "strangers
are not admitted to visit the establishment,
except by special permission from tbe rev
erend father-general." '
I managed to persuade the director to
guide me through the immense cellars and
storerooms, out of which each year some
millions of bottles are dispersed into France
and foreign countries. Some idea of the
extent of the business and its profits may
be gained when I tell you that the Grande
Chartreuse pays the State 3.000,000 francs
annually forthe right to make this liquor,
and above that they make a profit of 10,000
francs daily.
THE GEANDE CHABTBEUSE.
All the glories of a setting sun were on the
mountain sides, and the distant trees and
ravines were tinged in golden colors when I
reached tbe Grande Chartreuse. The door
was opened by a brother, from whomfcl
asked hospitality. He bade me enter, and.I
was soon within a house where no womaV
with the exception of crowned heads, Bm
ever penetrated. My guide led me across
floor was stone and the walls whitewashed.
On the wall hung a mountain staff, for once
a week the monks enioy a walk in commoa
up the mountain side; then they telk.to
their heart's content, and make the
mountains echo with their laughter. A
little workroom furnished with a table, two
wheels in white deal wood, and a rush
bottom chair completed this monk's lodg
ings, and they are all alike, though here
and there, by way of ornament, may be seen
images ot saints, a crucifix, and a rosary.
"When I got through looking at these
monks' houses supper was being served for
visitors u well as monks, no differenee be-
GOODBI, QUEEN AHME
:a
Architectaral leceitricity lulMrm
Seacked Its Limit.
Receiving Bit Food.
EfTUENINQ
TO SIMPLEX STUM.';
Classic and Well-Deis! 1 4w of
Cokfikl Beaigi.
A CHEAP BUI ILKJANT
f'
f
1
ti
rwxiTHJt res raz B3arAK.
That tie so-oalfcd Qaees Abm trie i
architecture will not long retara
favor 1st very safe prediotioH. lift
popularity forebodes its early
Every tidal ware mast recede. ItwMWajS,
matter for eoBgrst&ktioa, i4ed, if tiW ii-
travagaseies of tyre-desieBers deetfto
this so-called style into positive dtarepaie. .
Already a netieeable aasefceref aMonk
instruct tbe architect set te give
Qoeea Anne exteriors. Sek elieate
nlmuAj with aaIaiiiaI f.llf !! X fl M&
vlifnh f 7.t!) mM u f-J An! lAty
colonial is growkg in. fever. "
This developing preference aaet jjiatPj
ing made in the menu, which consisted of as
omelette, beans, fried fish, cabbage soup and
fruit, the whole accompanied by a passable
wine, with a glass of chartreuse to aid di
gestion. The monks drink good wine, but
seldom taste this liquor, as it is a mistake to
suppose that as a body they manufacture it
The manufactory is situated some five miles
from the monastery, and it is only within
tbe last 40 or 50 years that the golden
liquor has been manufactured. Each
Chartreux receives annually one bottle, but
many of them have never tasted it
PAITHCTJI, FIDELITY.
The descendants of St Bruno pride them
selves on their ritrorons fidelity to Carthn.
sian customs. Although the order is more
than 800 years old, not a shade of change dr
reform has ever been made, and not onto
have they not relaxed in their vlgilance.bui,
stranger still, they have obstinately resisted
all modifications that Popes have wished to
introduce. Latin,has remained their official 1 all people of good taste.
lauguc, aim luojr uaye prescrvea lor IQO
mass, in their austere church, quite devoid
of all ornamentation, special daily unaltera
ble rites, to which none of the pomp of mod
ern days has been added. No musical instru
ment is permitted, the human voice alone
echoes to the mountains.
The order was founded in 1084, by Bruno,
a man of Cologne, and since then they have
dwelt there, they- and their posterity, and
neither cold, trials, catastrophes, nor tbe
course of 800 years can detach them from
their mountain hermitage. Their prayers
had arisen from that spot not more than 60
years when au avalanche of rocks destroyed
their dwellings, and two-thirds of their
number perished, but the survivors set to
THE PEOPLE OF ST. JLDA.
Only
Cnugnt Between tbe Cornstalks.
Camming (gL) Clarlon.l
The corn in Big Creek is fine, as is illus
trated by tbe following. A crowd of boys
and a dog were chasing a rabbit on Cap
tain H. L. Cunningham's place; the dog and
the rabbit run into a corn field and were lost
sight of. Alter awhile the rabbit was found
firmly wedged between two stalks of corn
where it had become fastened in its efforts
to escape. The dog has not yet been beard
from. It is supposed that iUis still lost in
the corn.
That's ibe Usual War.
Detroit Free Press.
"Let every voter vote for honest men, no
matter what their politics, and then we can
have honest local government," says a Buf
falo paper. Exactiy, but you are wasting
breath. ,Each party always considers that
it has all the honest men, and the votes
are polled accordingly.
A Trlflo Too Entlmilaitlc
Judge. 1
At a charade party. ,
"And my whole," concludes the leader of
the game, "isthenameof a precious stone,
the first let er of which is M, and"
'Emerald! emeraldl" shouts Jones, who is
present, not giving anyone else, in his ex
citement at the discorery.a chance to speak.
delights in playing duets with Lady Ban
dolph, whose skill as a pianist equals that
of her royal friend.
""When Lord and Lady Bandolph
Churchill made a journey sometime ago to
St. Petersburg, the latter was rather sur
prised and possibly felt a little aggrieved
because tbe Duchess offered her no letters of
introduction to her brother, the Czar, or to
any ot the other members of the imperial
family. But on her arrival in Bussia the
whole matter was fully explained. The
Duchess had written beforehand to bespeak
the attentions of all the family for her
American triend and her husband, and the
pair were consequently feted and petted at
court aud by the imperial household in a
manner quite unheard of in the annals of
Bussian society.
BOKER ASD THE CZAE.
"Another American who was personally
a great favorite at the court of Bussia, and
with the late Czar as well, was Mr. George
H. Boker of Philadelphia, at one time
United States Minister to St. Petersburg,
Mr. Boker is a good-looking man, with cul
tivated tastes, considerable pottic talents, '
and refined manners, and he quite won the
heart of Alexander IL by retraining from
making a speech on the occasion ot
his first private audience. The Czar
on the introduction of the new
Minister, and after the preliminary
courtesies had been exchanged, as
sumed a listening attitude. Mr. Bo
ker made a remark. The Czar responded,
and again looked expectant Thereupon
Mr. Boker informed His Imperial Majesty
that he had prepared no formal speech for
the occasion and did not- intend to deliver
Islanders Who Receive Their Mall
Once la Elffhc Months.
St Kilda, an island belonging to Great
Britain, must be a queer place. The pastor
of the church there writes: "There is
much to be done In the way of ameliora
ting the condition of these islanders. The
island is shut up for six months of the year
for want of communication, and the incle
mency of the weather, so that these islanders
are deprived in a great measure of the bene
fits of civilization. Another barrier to their
progress arises from the language. Gaelie
is the prevailing tongue, but the young men
and women can speak English now freely.
They are beginning to taste the sweets of lit
erature, and parents are very anxious that
their children should obtain the benefit of a
good English education."
The island is cut off from all communica
tion with the mainland, even by mail, for
eight months of the year, according to the
correspondent of an English paper. .The
gentleman says: "The St Kildians are
a very simple people quiet and industri
ous, but they have a very limited idea of
the world they live in. A lady with our
party in June gave a boy an appie, and he
did not know what to do with it. He had
never seen one before, but when the lady
took a bite out of it, and he saw it was
good to eat, he made short work with the
rest I expect also to take some kites, tops,
and other things for the children, who have
never been taught how to play. They never
saw a marble till this summer. They are
bright, intelligent children, and, when we
consider that no teacher ever went to St
Kilda till 1884, the progress they have made
is remarkable."
JPtnpeeHve View.
The well sMaeia
features of the colonial stvle are "
origin and cannot be "improved. "
the designer attempts soteetMag "sri
with it, he gets away froa.it samely.
A COL02TXAX. DBSfW.
The design given herewith ki
a fair example, the designer
to low cost. The colonial fet
said to be confined to tie windows, Tm
windows are so truly eoteaiaj that .
dominate the whole interior.
The following!! a somewhat auMlid
seriotioa of this deskrat
Size of structure: Froat CwMft 3t k
depth (side), 44 feet ,f 1
tieigntoi stories: ueiiaay Met; arse i
9 feet: second story. 8 feet.
Materials for exterior walls: !
W0EEJ3TQ XX THE GABDE2T.
large courtyard, in the center of which two
streams descend from the mountain, making
night and day a mournful sound, to the
common ball, where pious engravings and
carriage notices were stuck on the. wall
plentifully. People were eating, and an
old, bearded brother was at a desk ready to
receive orders for food and drink, liquor,
rosaries and photographs.
Apart from its cloister the interior of the
Grande Chartreuse is nothing much, bnt
the cloister, some 660 feet long, and lighted
by 110 windows, has indeed an imposing as
pect The chapel is small and quite devoid
of works of art; it is divided into two parts,
one destined for those of tbe Chartreux who
are priests, the other with the laical brothers.
The hall of the chapter house, in which are
rows of wooden benches' and portraits ot
general fathers painted on the ceiling, has
no interest forihe profane. Here each year
in the first week of May, the priors of all
the bouses of the Chartreux meet to occupy
themselves with spiritual affairs connected
-s3
and built cells a little distance from the
first ill-fated.site. Then tbe terrible Baron
des Adrets visited them sword in hand, and
after that eight times in as many centuries,
their monastery was. destroyed by fire,
which was rendered liable to these repeated
accidents from its roofs of willow. They
were not too discouraged to Djraveiy build
again, however, and at last, in the
seventeenth century, the present solid
structures were erected. A hundred years
after the order's foundation, l5 Chartreuses
imitated at a distance the virtues of the
first, while under Louis XIV. there were as
many as 200 spread over the surface of the
whole of Europe all acknowledging tbe
same General. But all that glory long
since departed, and at present there are
scarcely 20 such houses in the world. The
Grand Chartreuse inmates were forcibly ex
pulsed, and replaced by a revolutionary
garrison, but the old Vicar General of tbe
order was permitted to return "to the monas
tery on the restoration and he died there
eight days later. To-day the French Gov
ernment allow the use of the buildings they
occupy and the surrounding pasture land
with necessary fire wood for and in con
sideration of the (400,000 annually taken
from the profits of the golden liquor.
Henet HAYmar.
v i Inn '
sim
Firft Floor.
A Monk'i Bedroom.
At a Farlilan Reception.
Guest I am ex-Governor Blinkblank, of
Massachusetts, sir.
Master of Ceremonies Ver' well, m'sier.
J-et zo place next ze Goveraaire of ze
Friendly Islands. Ze Govemaireot "Ojijl
vill soon be here, also. JvUge, "
with their institutions. In the little ceme
tery are graves surmounted with a stone, on
which is engraved the name of the defunct,
and beneath these stones sleep those who
have been at the head ot the establishment
On the other side are simple wooded crosses
without inscriptions, and these mark the
last resting place ot the Chartreux.
The library, which possesses 25,000 vol
umes, is the only part of the institution
where there is any evidence of luxury. In
it I saw silent phantoms carrying, replacing,
seeking documentary volumes, books big
and little. The refectory Is a beautiful
arched room; a table at the end is reserved
for the prior of the house; the other monks
occupying tables in rank of priority. The
forks," spoons, eggcups and plates are all
made of wood, bnt the little vessels for wine
and water are of earthenware. Not a word
is spoken during the meal, but a brother
chants the lessons for the morning;' they
only take their repast in common ou Sun
days and on certain fete days.
how the bbetheek live.
Grande Chartreuse monks do not live in.
cells, but each inmate has his own little
house. Near tbe door is a little wicket gate
through which the monk receives his food,
which is always without meat, and visitors
have likewise to conform to this regulation.
Should the brother require aught else he
writes down his needs and leaves the paper
at the wicket, and presently be finds at the
same place what he had asked for. There is
a gallery which, in winter months, is a
promenade ground, but a little garden in
in front of each bouse serves for exercise in
summer time. .
On the ground floor I saw a brother work
ing at a woodpile, and above was bis bed
room. It bad a sort of cupboard bed, a
coarse mattress and bolster, cotton sheets
and woolen coverlid. Facing the bed was
an oratory; on one side "a litft niche "wHfe I
WIIISKI LIKE WHALEB05B. .
London Liquor Remladi n Traveler of the
War Bean Are Killed.
Chicago Herald.l
"That reminds me of the London liquor'"
said the much-traveled young man, "and,"
he continued, "the London liquor reminded
me of tbe way they kill polar bears in the
arctic regions. An exploring friend of mine
told me about it They kill bears for food.
and in kUling they take no chances. How
do theyldo it? "Well, it's like this: They
procure a stiff and sharp piece of whalebone
and wind it tightly in a roll. Then they
thrust this inside of a big chunck of whale's
blubber. This mass is exposed until -it is
frozen. Then it is laid out upon the ice as
a sort of bait The first polar bear, that
comes along bolts the mass at a single gulp.
i."Then, ot course, the heat of the bear's
stomach thaws out the frozen blubber and
the sharp whalebone expands. In straight
ning out it penetrates tbe sides of the bear
and kills him. He is found dead on the ice
and is skinned and cnt up. Now London
whisky is like that It goes down smooth
ly, but subsequntly expands and kills a
man."
brick or stone; first story, clapboards
uiuitxca, Bcwau nw, Biuig2cj reef,
gies.
Interior finish: All rooms SmfeM
white plaster and soft wood sefeuj
woodwork td be treated with weod-fiiter ;
finished with bard oil, showing g
2TATCXAX, COXOBS.
Exterior colors: Entire body as4 aaWte
painted a "colonial" (medium sfealtt eAf
....11... .11 -l. -. . x-i-t- r
jwiuwi ou uuu, Buoifita witter ere, TMi
da and balcony rails, all moaUiBgs, Tirnrit
ett, window and door frames, sainted wkita.
Outside doors treated with woe4-sHler awl;,
snisned wita oil, showing aataral
Boof shingles, oiled.
Accommodations: All tbe reeaa ad&'i
their sizes, the pantries sad eieseto ami)
shown by the plans givea herewith, Tsters
MMMaMMaHTsrHkaMaisaMHfiBiiM
rJfers ' '
Y i
Second Floor. f 4fl
A Dream Unhappily Fulfilled.
London Globe.
The case of the steeple Jack's wife who,
as we reported last night, dreamed that her
husband would fall from a lofty chimney
and be killed, and whose dream was un
happily fulfilled, is worthy tbe attention
of the Psychical Besearch Society. "Was it
a real presentiment, or was it rather a fact
that tbe man who knew of bis wife's dream,
was pnnerved by the recollection? Dreams
sometimes bring about their own fulfill
ment At the Author's dab.
Ufe.3
Brown "Who is that seedy looking Indi
vidual with the long hair?
Jones That is Starvling, the renowned
poet His great masterpiece was published
in the last number of Scri&o'er'j Magazine,
Brown Aud who is that well-dressed
gentleman who just saubbed him so unmer
u uitor ne tu Bo a peef.
jjartheaware basis, and. a pieeeof neap; lj adyy t iieatati frr Plwa'j gaap.
is a cellar under the main boase asd the.
garret is floored to provide storage reea. Kt
preferred, the hall may be enlarged by m-
eluding tne reception room, u prerre
the sitting room may be used as a Beth
in which case the reception room sfceeM 1
connected and used as a dressing rooa.i"H?
is an easy matter to convert tae sex
bedroom, oa the second fleer into a 1
In the vicinity of New York CMarf
room.
Cost:
12,200.
Copyright by &. W. ShoppeH.
A PEISIT1TE STBE1T CA1. ;
Cleveland' Street Hall way That Was
and Operated la ISM.
"Trode on one of the first street oa
America," said a. resident oa Cefttoal
nue to an Indianapolis New reporter, "
It was a queer-looking affair, teo. Tbe 'a
was a big; square box with seats nuuj
lengthwise on the inside. ''
"Small, square holes were cut la
of the car for windows and the driver
seated on top of the ear.
"The 'railroad' was in CleveUad, O.,
we car ran irom vae uhui hmm w
a distaaee of tear miles. Tste
2x4 oak plaak.
"The fare was 36
reaesberl
walked be;
laHW,''
.-&4.
-..J. aA.J jfJuy-.--J&MMiltf-
:wTi