Vv n
M-M SECOND PART. ;
THE PLACE YENDOIE,
.Bome of the Interesting History As
" . sociated With the Kame of
;THB FIKEST SQUARE IN PABIS.
A Horning Walk Through the Most Beauti
ful Portion of the Citj. "
IHE AMEEICAK QUARTER OF TEE T0TO
rcOXZXSrOXDIXCX O THI dispatch.
PAEIS, May
20. "We -H-ere sit
ting in the- club
room ot the Hotel
Chatham, with
empty glasses
before us, when
the London cor
respondent of a
NewYors: news
paper, who had
come over to
write tip the Ex
position, inter-
Ji. Corner of the Place, rnpted a few re
marks which an ex-managing editor was
making on the subject of music, by asking
which thoroughfare was nost popular with
Americans now in Paris.
"I mean," said he, "do any of you know
whether more of our compatriots promenade
in the Avenue de 1'Opera than in the Eue
de la Paix, or along the boulevards?"
Thereupon differences of opinion were
heard from several persons, and while Henry
was getting ready "more of the same," we
discussed the question good-naturedly, and
it all ended with each man in the party
being satisfied that he knew as much about
it as any of his neighbors. I can't cretend
to tell you what they said, but it is tolerably
easy for me to repeat some of my own ex
pressions, and as 14 hours have elapsed since
the subject was debated, perhaps I shall be
able to do so calmly and in a becoming
THE PLACE
spirit.
' Time and again have I stood on the ref
use in the Place de 1 'Opera and looked on
the moving panorama, the splendid build
ings and the grand monuments, especially
tVe Column Yendome. -Back of me loomed
nV-the Grand-Opera -House "orNationaT
ayademy of iluslc, the finest building de
voted to theatrical purposes ever yet con
structed. On the right, the enormous
Grand Hotel, and the boulevard, stretching
off to the Church of the Madeleine, where the
roadway turns at a sharp angle into the Eue
Eoyale, running thence to the Place de la
Concorde. On the left, still the boulevard,
with the Press Club, the "Washington Club,
the Yaudeville Theater and other famous
places, including the Pavilion de Hanover,
or Cardinal Eichelieu mansion, all within
view.
AIT AMEBICAJT STBEET.
In front and to the left the Eue de Quatre
Septembre bears off to the Bourse, which I
can almost see ftom where I stand, and di
rectly in front is the Avenue de 1'Opera.
"When I came here there was no such street
as this last-mentioned one, and even after
the city had commenced to tear down build
ings and make it a broad avenue, it was for
three years only a cul de sac that ended a
few yards down the way, at the office ot the
OAKDEN OP THE
New York Herald. Now it stretches out
for nearly .a mile, ending at the Place de la
Comedie Francaise and the Louvre. Out
tide of the United States, I doubt if there is
another street that has so many American
places of business in it It is lined on
either tide with shops, stores and offices
that are kept and occupied by my country
men. Pjnally, we have in front, but this time
bearing to the right, the Eue de la Paix,
and in it are some of the most expensive
Sue CcuUglione,
jewelry stores, dressmakers' and modistes'
shops of the capital. There are also several
first-class hotels; and the first street down
it, on the right, is the Eue Dounon, wherein
it the Hotel Chatham, the place where we
were seated last nighif and I may say, en
passant, about the first spot that every
American discovers when he reaches Paris.
The Eue de la Paix is a street for shopping,
and on that account there, are more private
carriages to be seen in it than in any other
in Paris. Sometimes they are to numerous
that the street is almost impassable; and ,1
have heard ladies say that they had to wait
TWft fIVtri 4l.wtA L f .I.& .nM.1iamlAw
tome swell coo turiere before their turn came I
ourcnaretset. The second
sond street down ir
feBSfc I
y
the Eue des Petits Champs, the street into
which Thackeray used to go for bouille
baisse; and then comes the Place Vendome.
Nearly all the modern public squares and
great public buildings of this town are built
on the ruins of ancient convents, old re
ligious establishments, or ground once oc
cupied by vast mansions which feudal
noblemen erected.
THE PLACE VENDOME
is constructed on land that was once the
site of such a mansion, and on ground that
was once covered by a monastery. Ceson
de Yendome, the legitimate son of Henri
IV, became the owner, of the Hotel de ,Mer
cour throngh his marriage with Mile de
Louraine, and he at once gave the house his
own name. It remained in his family until
1680, when Louvois bought it for 660,000
francs. His plan was to erect there an,
equestrian statue of Louis XTV, and as the
Capucine monastery interfjred with his
plans he had it pulled down, and then he
commenced erecting extensive buildings to
be used as a private library for the king,
and as a hotel for foreign ambassadors.
The statue represented Louis Quartorze
dressed as an ancient Greek, his head cov
ered by a flowihg-wig, and on his shoulders
a sort of beggar's wallet
Had they tried to do so they could not
SyM
Hue de la Patse.
have found a more significant manner of
representing a reign whose commencement
was so glorious, and which ended with so
much misery. The people did not gotothein
auguration of this statue, and only one man
of the court attended it. The nobility of
his character,thetruegrandeurof his actions,
and his elevated education kept him from
findulgine in joy at a time when there was
rso much universal mourning. That" man
was the Duke de Bourgogne, son of the
king and-pupil of Peuelon.
The Place Yendome is an equilateral
TEJTDOIIE.
square, situated between the Eues St.
Honore and the Petits Champs, facing the
Eue Castiglione in one direction and the
Eue de la Paix on the other. It is not a
square, for the corners are cut oft, and the
sides are about 440 feet long. All the facades
arennliorm,.a-Qd- 4be ground floors" flriBtjll
along their whole extent a series of arches,
that form the support of a front of Corin
thian pilasters, and are decorated in the
center with columns and porticoes.
A. HISTOBIC SQtTAEE.
Under the Eege icy, the Quinquampoix
having become too small lor the stock
speculators, gambling was transferred to the
Place Yendome, and, as if id make mockery
of the sacredness of law, the stock brokers
did their business under the very windows
of the' Minister of Justice.
Finally, however, the Chancellor obtained
the transfer of this open air exchange, and
a certain Duke, .having tendered his Hotel
de Soisons, wooden booths were erected there,
which rented so well that he got no less than
600,000 francs a year for the use of his
ground. At last the Eevolution happened,
the royal statue was thrown down, and,
though the square was renamed Place des
Piques, habit preserved its old title ot Yen
dome. I may say right here that there is in
the JJouvre a model and some fragments of
mat statue, it snows tne Jung in tne sad
dle, attended by the Virtues, who are walk
ing. The day after it was inargurated some
TTILEBIES.
wit pasted a card ou it to the effect that
there, as in life, vice went on horseback,
while the virtues footed it
After the campaign of 1806 Napoleon
conceived the project of erecting a column
to the glory of his army. This monument,
finished in 1810. was copied after that of
Antonine, or of Trajan authorities differ
on this point at Home, and the square be
came known as the Place Napoleon. The
column was cast Out of the bronze of 1,200
cannons, captured from Eussians and
Austrians, and it was then, as it is now, a
durable monument of snecess and glory,
raised rather to the honor of a great nation
than to that of a great man. This is what
has doubtless preserved it in the midst of
many disasters, although it was
OVERTTTBHED BY THE COMMTTK ISTS.
That dreadful year, when Thiers and his
French troops were at Versailles and the
'detested Prussians were- still on the soil of
this country, mad men perpetrated many in
glorious acts, and one of them was the at
tempted destruction of this grand monu
ment "When a frequenterof the Grand
Cafe I used to play whist occasionally with
a man whose wife kept a large millinery
establishment at the corner of the Place
Yendome and the Eue Castiglione. He
often told me of how he begged the mob not
to tear it down; and his wife even offered
them 1,000,000 francs if they would leave it
unmolested. But they demanded 2,000,000,
and it not being forthcoming, they accom
plished their -vandal act It was recon
structed some few years later and the statue
of the Little Corporal still stands on its apex.
The Column Yendome is 135 feet high and
12 feet in diameter. It is built of but .stone
covered over with bronze plates, 425 In
number, representing in a continual spiral
the memorable events of that year's cam
paign. In 1814, when the allies were in
Paris, the Eussians wished to overthrow
this monument, erected in honor of their
defeats, but all that they were permitted to I
THE PITTSBURG
do was to take dawn the statue of Napoleon
that stood on its top, and I am very sorry to
add that there were some Frenchmen who
aided them in doing this. From that time
until 1830 the column was surmounted by a
fleur-de-lis over four feet high, and above it
was a tall flagstaff on which the drapeaa
blanc used to be hoisted. The 29th of July,
1830, the fleur-de-lis was torn down, and the
trl-color floated, from the -flagstaff. Threa
years later Napoleon -was placed on the col
umn, not as formerly, however, in the in
signia of imperial power, but wearing the
military uniform so well known to the
French people and to the army.
I should have said that the Com
munists when they lore down this
columu were led by Courbet, the famous
painter. He died leaving a large fortune,
and, after a long lawsuit, his heirs were
forced to pay the cost of reconstructing it
It was restored in 1874, and the statue of
Napoleon, with which the Third Eepublio
crowned this splendid work, represents him
in the garb of a Eoman Emperor.
ABISXOCBATIC MANSIONS. '
There are some fine old private residences
hidden behind the fronts that form this
place. At one side are the offices and
vaults of the Credit Mobilier. A little
further along, on the same side, is the pal
ace of the Minister of Justice; it is a very
large mansion with an enormous gar
den atid grand old trees, and yet
you can see nothing of it from the square.
Then at the corner, which, as I said
before, is cut off, are the headquarters of the
military governor of Paris, and next to his
house is the Hotel Bristol, one of the best in
the capital. It is not very large, but the
Prince of "Wales always stops there, and so
does friend Slavin when he is in Paris.
Just about now he is riding horseback in
Central Park with his two charmine nieces.
but I am sure all three of them are wishing
themselves over here again. Across the
street the Eue Castiglione is the Hotel
de Ehin, where I went the other day to call
on Mr. Belmont, ex-Minister to Spain; then
come some apartment houses, behind which
are more splendid mansions and fine parks,
and finally we get back again to the Eue
flelaPaix. '
Now if we retrace our steps to the Eue
Castiglione and go down that street under
its arcades and. past the Hotel Continental,
we will come in a few moments to the Tuil
eries gardens. Here is the beautiiul Eue de
Eivoh with this garden on one side and a
long row of arcades, reaching from the resi
dence ot Baron de Eothschild to the Place
de la Comedie Francaise, on the other. "We
have made only a short promenade, but it
was through about as pretty a bit of Paris
as I could possibly show you, and in this
walk I think we have Been" or we could see
if you were here, more Americans and more
English speaking people than in any other
thoroughfare of Chere Lutece.
HENBY Haynie.
I0TING MEMORY 0P DOGS.
How One Recognized the Boot of
HIa
Owner Another Instance Cited.
ZoophUist.i V
The late Mr. Eyre, a clergymanleft a
dog, which was very much attached to him,
at the country house of a friend while he
left England for a lone sojourfl abroad.
After two years Mr. Eyre returned, arriv
ing at his friend's'house late at night, and
retiring without having the dog called.
Next morning, Mr. Eyre was awakened
by the dog bursting into his bedroom and
leaping upon him with the wildest demon
strations of delight
"How on earth did he know I had ar
rived?" asked the gentleman of the servant,
who brought hot water.
"Oh, sir," the man replied, "it is the most
curious thing! As I was cleaning jrour .
boots the dog recognized th'em and bee&ane
excited beyond measure, and I havenoV
been ablejto quiet him until he saw where I
was carrying them, and rushed "up along
with me to your door."
A correspondent of the same English
paper relates that he gave away, at a year
old, a dog which he was unable to keep in
his London home. After eight years the
dog was returned to its first owner.
"The dog met me," says the correspond
ent, "at first as a stranger, and then, with
little animated sniffs ot inquiry, going
round and round me. I remained still for
a few moments, while she grew more and
more excited. At last I stooped and patted
her, and called her by her name. 'Dee.
"On hearing my voice the poor beast gave
what I can only describe as a scream of rap
ture, and leaped into my arms. From that
moment she attached herselt to me as if she
had never left me, and with the tenderest
devotion."
HOW TO CONCEAL WIEEB.
That Is the Greatest Problem That
Con-
fronts Electricians Now.
From the Philadelphia Becord.
The greatest problem that confronts' us
is to provide for the concealment of the
electric wires. There is great danger in
concealment, but at the same time electrici
ty is making its way as a lummant into 1
private houses, and to expose wires in such
cases is to create an eyesore. "We always
recommend that wires be exposed. Numer
ous attempts are being made now to de
vise conduits for the wires which shall be
waterproof, and, at the same time, incom
bustible. Another point about which we require
particular care is the size of the wire that is
used to carry the current Copper wire is
expensive, and there is a temptation to
make it very fine. "Where the wire is too
small to carry the current needed heat is
sure to be generated.
Fnctn Abont the Orchestra.
Baltimore American. 1
An investigation of the average orchestra
reveals some curious facts about their per
sonality. The drummer is generally a pro
fessional beat, and is always going on a
strike; the violinist is fond of drawing a
long bow, thereby continually getting in a
scrape; the trumpeter, however, is quite
sociable, as he is always ready for a good
blow-out; as for the flutist, it is sad but true
that, besides. being light-fingered, he must
have frequent stops during the perform
ance; whi(e they all run up and down the
scale so much, that the only way the leader
can keep them together is by having re
course to. arms.
Evidence Complete.
Bonoma Valle"! "Whistle. I
First El Verano Citizen "What was the
verdict of the Coroner's jury? A,
Second Citizen That the man came to hit
death from sunstroke, superinduced by over
induleence in alcoholic stimulants.
""Were there any signs of excessive use of
liquor about his person?" v
"Nothing bnt a business card that gave
his address as Lexington, Ky."
To Waterproof Hammock.
Hammocks that are allowed to hang out
most ot the time are soon rotted by the ac
tion of the weather. It is said that they
mav be made "waterprooP' by immersing
in boiling linseed oil and leaving them in
it tor a day or two. Then, with a cloth rub"
off all the, oil possible, and when the wet
ting is dried it will last much longer than
it otherwise wonld.
A Witty Parson.
Iilnng Chnrch.3
The well-knownclergymen lately missed
heit train, upon Which one of them took
out his watch, and finding it to blame for
the mishap, said he wonld no longer have
any faith in it ( '
'But," said tne otner, "isn't it a question
Bet of faith, but of works?'
PITTSBURG, STOPAY, JTINE 2, 1889.
SOCIETY II AMERICA.
The
Yery Plain Talk of Princess
Engalitcheff, an .
ACCOMPLISHED EUSSIAN LADY.
Too Much Liberty and Hot Enough Berer
ence and Eespect
0UE WOMEN, CH1LDBEN AND 8EEYAHTS
rCOBBXSrOHSXKCIOrTHX DISPATCH.
New Yobk, June L Princess Marthe
Engalitcheff is the distinguished name of a
brilliant and beautiful lady who has come
to the United States to givea course of
drawing room readings on the social and
home life of polite Eussia, and at the same
time turn the lens of observation upon the
distinctive features and representative
members of American society for the edifi
cation and enlightenment of her own
people. She has the patronage of the
Eussian legation and also a number of
valuable letters from the courts of the five
great powers of Europe.
Unusually gifted, it is said that La
"Princesse is studying American society to
do what no Eussian ladv has ever done
write a book on the amenities of TJnitedT
States society. "Whatever her mission may
be, there is no question about its financial
success, and in a social way she has been and
is, "receiving the most distinguished atten
tion and courtesy.
A couple of years ago, Prince Engalit
cheff died, leaving his wife a vast estate
which she was advised to place in the hands
of a well-known German agent His in
vestments were disastrous failures, and
when settlement was made, nothing re
mained but remnants of the magnificent
fortune.
There were plenty of relatives to come
forward and offer the freedom of their mag
nificent homes for life, but the Princess was
TOO PBOUD TO ACCEPT FAVOBS.
and, as a purely experimental scheme, pre
pared a series of Eussian papers and came
to "Washington to read them. Here, as well
as in Brooklyn, Philadelphia and Atlantio
City, she has been most cordially received,
her friends not only honoring her as their
guest, but placing their drawing rooms at
her disposal and levying on their calling
lists for patronage. In this way she has
been treated as becomes a princess, and
while a teacher among her friends is also a
pupil. '
American society, so far as she has seen
it, is a revelation to la princesse and her
observations cannot fail to interest the peo
ple studied.
"I must be honest if I talk to you, for we
Eussians nave not the skill you possess of, I
will not say dissembling, but giving to a
word, a letter or an opinion a variety of in
terpretations, and yon will pardon me if X
think that there is far too much freedom in
America. I do not like it I think it is a
menace in many ways. For instance, I
think yonr children are frightfully reared.
They are free from the very nursery to
abnse their nurses, they always have their
own'way from the start, and the contempt
they must feel and often show their parents
is simply disgraceful. As for disre
spect, I have seen nothing else .since
I.6.W to tle States. This they tell
ws -if i-frrtn; they call the insolent
'ilttlejtlrl Miss Liberty and her brother the
coming iresiaent, ana tnis is just tne quali
ty of freedom that I never could become ac
customed to. I have seen a child not yet 7
years cf age order his father as if he were a
servant to bring his puzzle-box from the
nursery that he might show me how to get
the pigs in; at a homewhere the" young lady
sat at her piano practicing a singing lesson
the mother of the family was actually sent
to turn on the heat that the shameless
daughter might not take cold. A young
man with a soldier's height and a universi
ty training ended an argument his mother
was making in this manner: "ily dear
mother, you don't know what you are talk
ing about," and then proceeded to relate the
occurrence In his own way, and that, too, in
tne presence ot cauers.
SHAEP CBtTICISMS.
"And so you know a tall son who was
being reproved for a reported discourtesy to
a young sister told his mother to 'let up.'
I had never heard such a remonstrance
before but by the distress in the lady's face
I knew it must be a remark of great disre
spect. The freedom ot the child amounts
to positive unrestraint in growing manhood
and womanhood and though still -dependent,
sons and daughters have their own
friends, make their own plans, spend money
as thsy like and go and come as they please.
Not only is the boy his own boss but the
young lady is free to accept invitations and
presents from gentlemen and to marry,
even, whom she pleases. The freedom
that permits her to wound her mother
is the very same that leads her to elope with
her father's coachman or charman.
"And then how she dresses. My heavens I
whatfieedom. Such colors and clothes are
unheard of in Europe. She is fond of at
tracting attention.and while if a man sbould
offer her an incivility a dozen others are at
hand to protect her, there is everything
about her costume to plead the rascal's de
fense. She has jewels In her ears and at her
throat and in the very coils of her hair.
Even her hat is held with gold pins. She
has bright trimming in her bonnet, her
dress is showy in every fold; perhaps she
wears gloves made for the opera, and I tell
you I have seen shoes on her feet that no
European lady wonld dare to wear out of
her own salon or a ballroom. Such dress
ing seems to be the fashion wherever X have
been, but I can never be made to think it in
good taste.
""With us a color is never worn on the
public street Onr walkine suits are made
of the , darkest goods, often black, never
trimmed, always simple in cnt, so that the
difference in rank between a lady and her
maid is marked by her presence, manner
and bearing. Yon will never see a lady
with jewelry on in public or private before
dinner, and in summer we omit it alto
gether, yet I have seen on Fifth avenue .in
carriages and along the promenade before
noon, not some, but many diamonds and
jewels that a king might be prond to wear.
THE MAID EQTTAL TO THE MISTRESS.
"And thenTour servants! Oough, I could
never be content to live in this country on
their, account Since I have been here I
have tried to train those I have employed,
but they will not be instructed, and just
plainly tell me that American ladies do not
require the respect I insist on receiving. In
other words, the servant is a proof in herself
of the inability of the American lady to ex
act proper'service. To illustrate my mean
ing, which is, that in this country tne maid
is the equal of the mistress, let me tell you
my experience. "When I first arrived I sent
word to the office that I wished to be pro
vided with a trustworthy, competeat laun
dress. The next day an Irish woman
knocked at my door. I said 'come in,' as
yon savj and to my. surprise the woman
walks Into my parlor and takes a seat ou my
divan. 'Are you a real Eussian princess?'
she asks me. I admit that I am a princess,
and settling herself back among mi satin
pillows, she says: 'Well, princess, I'm
giaa to see yon; now come ana ten me an
about Eussia!'
"Now did you ever hear anything like
that for impudence?
''My colored maid has been in some of the
best famllies,Pam told, bnt I couldnot trust
her word or actions, fane comes to my terv-
incr taMi tirfrua hp.FRlf tn tlip tiba nf mv
thimble and j,ciJsor,-and would you believe I
it, covers herself with scent from my cabinet
de toilet and actually wears my cloak and
gloves when 1 am away. Her familiarity is
positively disgusting and her inquisitive
questions and the bits of gossip she offers
nie show what her habits have been in
former homes. Americans themselves are
well aware of these defects in both children
and servants, and they-are entirely to blame
for them.
CHAEMINO LADIES.
"How do I like the ladies of this country?
As all foreigners must They are excep
tionally charming. What I first noticed
was the sweetness of their voices. To hear
a New York lady talk Is like listening to
soft music. And then they- are so pretty
and petite and the variety of their informa
tion would be remarkable In Eussian gen
tlemen. I do not understand how they in
terest themselves in the monthly literature
and daily papers. It is not enough that
they read one, but let some friend speak of
a sketch or a print she has seen and the
listener buys the book in which it Is, on her
way home. To this prodigality, I may say,
her greatest charm is due. But I can't see
why she is not better educated. By that I
mean she is not a good history scholar and
she rarely knows one language and never a
second beside her own. "We provide tutors
for our children and at 10 thev sneak their
own and two or three other tongues equally
well.
"We speak and write English, French,
German and Eussian, but I cannot remem
ber how or when I learned, any more than
I can remember when I commenced to be
polite or proud. In Europe we are taught
music, and while your ladies are also, I
must say that you have not the same general
excellence of execution nor the same soul
that we shqw. Your girls are bright and in
teresting, vastly more so than any European
women, but you are less thorough, less
serious. There you will find accomplish
ments. Here we find what exists in no
other country smartness. Do yoa see the
omerence I try to maker
AMEEICAH VS EUBOPEAir LADIES.
"Another thing. "While, as 1 have said,
the American women have beanty and deli
cacy and refinement, they lack the elegance
characteristic of high life and fine birth.
Don't misunderstand me now, for I have
been most cordially received and my ad
miration is sincere, but while politeness is) a
trait, I might say, common in,New York
society, it is not the kind yon would feel and
observe in Continental Europe. Your man
ners are pretty and they win, but we think
ours are elegant and polished ancV we know
they command respect A few times I have
seen in this city the aristocrat, but the com
manding eleganoe of manner and bearing
does not force the attention of the traveler.
In no other country have I eveiyseen more
sweetness than among your ladies. They
have a hundred ways of showing you their
pleasure1 and as many ways of expressing
their gratitude for a favor.
"About the American men I can say lit
tle, as I have had no chance to talk;with
them or find their views. To many I have
been presented, but the conversation was al
ways limited to casual remarks. As for
deference to their wives and general respect
and courtesy I think them far below the
well-born European.. They are allowed to
travel side by side in public cars with the
ladies, and in studying their own comfort
forget entirely their presence. The manner
in which they will enjoy sitting while
dozens of ladies stand is so disgraceful to
me that I have not words to express my feel
ings, and what could be more disgusting
than the wav thev soit tobacco everywhere?
In Eussia a gentleman will not pass a lady
in any public hotel or theater corridor with
out raising his hat; in this hotel no notice is
taken of her presence.
TOBACOO AITD WJSK,
"Smoke? Every lady smokes; men and
women, but not the young ladies, that is,
not until after marriage, with us waist is
a family game, and at cards cigarettes are
brought into the parlor and all smoke. La
dies will smoke three, and sometime seven
cigarettes before the, evening is over. I can
understand the objection of American ladies
to smoking the tobacco here is so bad and
the ventilation of the homes so defective. In
Bnssia we have the Turkish tobacco which
is grown in the South about the Caspian
and is as sweet and fragrant as spice wood.
From it our cigarettes are made. Cigars
are not seen much even in stag companies. '
But no matter how many there may be in a
salon there is not the slightest discomfit
abont the room, as the ventilators are ad
justed by the servant who brings in the
trays. Our rooms, too, are very muoh larger
than in the western homes.
"I am often amazed at the' length of your
dinners. I don't see how you eat them, not
one night, but all the time. The courses are
not only more numerous, but frightfully
heavy. "We never sit longer than two hours
at a guest's table and generally one is
thought formal. "We do not like to carry
on onr conversation among victuals, plate
and servants. "We prefer the parlor where
there are plenty of easy chairs and cozy cor
ners with books and always music. And
then the way you drink ice water! In the
name of health how do yon live? I am told
If America is a nation of dyspeptics, and it
does not surprise -me since my first dinner
in society. In a Eussian home ice never is
used in a water service. The water is beau
tiful here, the finest I have ever seen any
where and I wonder why yon spoil it with
ice.
"Wine? always. Generally claret, and
at dinner each person will drink about half
a Dome." t
THE PBDTCESS TUt 2TKW TOBK.
During her stay in New York the Prin
cess has been a truest at the Hotel Belve
dere, where she has apartments, made un
usually delightful by her own presence and
the charming people she attracts. Here one
meets factors of the 400, and such Brahmins
of society as Charles Dudley Warner arid
family, E. C. Stedman and lnmilv, Mr. and
Mrs. A. A. Hayes, Von Bulow, Albert
Morris Bagby, the pupil and friendof Abbe
Liszt, Kate Sanborn, Grace Greenwood and
Yerestchagin when in the city.
To meet this lovely woman "as a guest is to
enjoy a privilege but rarely extended to a
traveler through Eussfa. Her nobility is
as self-evident as her features, and from the
reposo of her beautiful hands to the hem of
her trailing robe she is every inch a prin
cess. Personally she is tall and command
ing, not unlike "Princess Louise in build
and bearing, with a very small head, the
real tint of Titian in her "hair and the colors
pi an opal in her eyes. Her throat and
wrists are truly patrician, and .she has that
BEPOSE OF MANNED
that American students of expression spend
mind and money to acquire. She has a
piano in her little parlor and she plays like
a virtuoso, not one, but all the schools.
Among musical people her interpretations
of Chopin are considered most remarkable
and repeated efforts have been made to hear
her in public and always without avail.
Alter her musicals she serves tea to her
guests from a bright copper samovar, brew
ing the delicious mixture of orange and
flowers with her own beautiful white hands.
It would tempt a lover of veri tables to make
off with her tea cups dainty bits of egg
shell china fluted on the edge and stamped
with crest of Engalitcheff.
Her jewels are just what yon might ex
pect to find in the casket of a princess
magnificent One design, which took the
prize at a jewel collection in Moscow, repre
sents a Greek cross six inches in diameter,
cut from the heart of a solitaire amethyst,
that was described as "a purple gem as
precious as it is perfect." JThe cross is
mounted in old gold and encircled with dia
monds as large as vest buttons. Among a
collection of pearls she has one oriental gem
the size of a black cherry, said to be worth
a king's jansom.
Half the year this high-born and most
talented lady occupies a villa in Weimar,
Germany. She has a son 18 years of age
who is at a military academy preparatory to
entering the -royal gnard. In the'fintbook
of the old nobility the Engalitcheft are con
spicuous among the families of rank and age.
Nell Nklsoh.
DISPATCH
NOTEYENATHANITE
Trials of a-Little Hero at the Corner
oi Smithfield and Fifth Aye.
HE HAS CERTAINLY SAYED HAHI
From an Ugly Death, or Distressing Acd
' . dent on the'Patal Cable.
HIS BLESSINGS ALL LEFT-HANDED
THEEE is a quiet,
meek and modest lit
tle hero in this city
who has saved a
score of lives and
probably a hundred
from injury, yet his
very name is un
known, even to these
Tr lucky people, but the
brown-eyed martyr
goes right on in his
line of duty, and it is
actually with this un
derstanding he is
hired, "to savepeo
ple's lives." and he
At Sit Pott. goes on as demurely
as if he weren't a hero every day and some
' times twice.
Probably no monument will be erected to
his memory, and his fame may not even
survive the grave, but little Harry Wynne
ii every whit as deserving as far more
famous men, whose names live as those who
did one single act of bravery or humanity,
while he has done a hundred, and actually
thinks nothing of it
Evidently it is one thing to be a hero and
another to be recognized; one thing to be a
wit and another Ho be acknowledged; one
thing to be an honest man and another to be
conceded as such, and it is certainly one
thing to be young Wynne and another
thing to be credited with possessing any one
of the requisites of even the mildest type of
hero. -Imagine one of these romantic per
sons, for instance, rho, when approached
on some subject pertaining to his" business,
would say as gruffly as his boyish voice
could possibly growl: "Lemme alone, will
ye. I'm busy, you duffer."
A CONSPICUOUS PIGTTBE.
The boy in question is probably the most
conspicuous sight on Fifth avenue; thou
sands pass him carelessly by every day,
never noticing the" active figure apparently
-at all corners of Smithfield and Fifth at
once, waving a cable car back at one mo
ment, beckoning a crossing wagon on at the
'"Look Out for the CarP'
next, and then the next nushinz a drunken
man from the deadly slot, or dragging an
irate woman irom unaer tne very wneeis,
all without the least excitement, and with
the sole idea of earning his salary.
The young fellow must certainly be as
bright as a dollar, and have every wit about
him, or he could not take care of such a
continuous flow of street and sidewalk
travel going rapidly in four different di
rections, with the greatest rush of all cul
minating at his post, Fifth and Smithfield,
and actually every day of that boy's life is
simply a series of hairbreadth escapes, both
for himself or those in buggies or on
foot He is absolutely reckless as to per
sonal consequences, and when a cable car
rushes down the steep hump grade, another
comes rushing up, and four lines of car
riages, wagons or cars depend on this boy's
nerve for safety, while pedestrians look to
him for warning, and sometimes aid, some
idea may be had of his nerve and' presence
of mind, when it can be truthfully said that
but-one minor accident occurred there, and
that was caused by a headstrong driver's.
wilful disregard of his sienal to keeD back
Notwithstanding his good nature Wynne
is one of the hardest persons in the world to
approach, as he is busier than the bnsiest
millionaire or toiling clerk in this city, and
eternal vigilance alone is tile price of lib
erty. "Are you engaged just now?" he was
asked yesterday.
"Am I engaeed?" with scornful emphasis
on the am. "Yes. I have a date to save
that woman's life," and travel was at a
standstill for a moment while a scuffle on
the car track nearest the postoffice showed
that somebody was busy indeed.
jl lipe-savee's bewabd.
"What do you think that woman said to
me for helping her from in front of that
car?" he asked, after the arteries of travel
had been opened by swave of the hand in one
direction, a wink in the other, a nod in the
third, and a melodious howl, "well, are you
going to stay there all night?" in the fourth.
Mwnabiuau&a uu vou imun. x lui iur iw
"A dollar?" "
"Naw, she only sniffed 'smarty,' and
went on. Why, only yesterday a woman
batted me over the eye with her parasol and
said I was a rude thing because I brushed
her skirts away just in time to keep her
being dragged under the wheels. A dollar,
umph! It I only had a dollar for every time
I got a blessing from the people, and the
ladies especially, I would retire and buy
the bloomin' cable road myself."
"Well, perhaps you were rude."
"Oh, yes, perhaps I were rude. I s'pose
they expect me to bow and scrape and tip
my hat, and say, 'Madam, if you'll excuse
me I'll save your life,' or 'Madam, beg par
don, bnt would you rather go home with
one leg or with two, as usual? Them ain't
my instructions," he continued, dropping
into boyish grammar in his scorn. "My
instructions is to keep'the crossings clear,
and I'm a doin' it. Hi, there," he yelled
to a solemn individual who was so busy
trying to ascertain the time by the intricate
town clock that he was walktng plumb into
a cable car. "Hey, therp, can't you see?"
The individual referred to tried to trans
fix his kindly preserver with a cold stare,
but the latter was in the midst of a rattling
dispute with a driver who wanted the right
of way against cable car "statoots," and in
fact the whole evening he seemed impervions
to all attacks of any kind. "
AFTEE THE OPEEA.
"When the operas let out," he continued
a moment later, "then I have the worst
time yon ever saw. People come ont in
little bnnches, all talking at once, and it
dqn't seem as if they hear or see anything.
I have to run ahead of the cable and cut a
swath right through them, sometimes tear
ing a pretty girl's hand from her fellow's
arm. Then I stand by and listen to them
make sarcastic remarks abont me, bnt I'm
satisfied and think it is thanks enough if
they only don't say anything at all."
"Do yon have "much trouble with the
wagons?" '
"Well, I'm pretty buty all afternoon, thea
it slacks off at night but on toward 13
o'clock I must keep an eye ont for drunken f
1
driven, and the drunken cabman is the
very worst. The devil couldn't stop him,
and he thinks he owns the earth, especially
if he has a fly party inside. I get scared
eYtrr dav for fear something will happen.
but when I get down to work I am so'mter
ested in nreventlncr accidents I don't have
much time to think what I would do if
something real baw happened.
fSSr-
Prtvtnting a CollUion.
"Drivers and people don't complain much
when I stop them, because they know it's a
dangerous thing to get in front of a cable
car coming down this big hill. I won't say
it's impossible to stop coming down the hill,
for that all depends on the nerve of the
gripman, and if h has a box full of sand. I
remember not long ago, an old horse, drove
by an Italian, got his shoe stnek in the slot
about 40 feet from the bottom of the hill. I
saw a cable car coming, with the grip off,
and
ALL THE BSAKES SET,
but It was a little wet that day, and the
wheels slip't just like they was greased.
You see"; I always have a bie shovel and
some gravel here beside my chair. Well, I
caught up a shovelful and ran to meet the
car, spilling the gravel all along the track.
The wheels ground the gravel into sand,
and that car, with a dozen scared passen
gers, stopped within two feet of the para
lyzed Italian. Then again I dragged a lit
tle newsie away from a car at just abont the
same place. A newsie, you know, would go
through fire and water to sell a paper, and a
man across the street had just whistled when
four boys started to race, as usual. But
there's no nse tellin' of thenarrow escapes,
for there's too many of 'em, though I hope
you will never hear of the first fatal acci
dent" '
The truth of the matter is the boy has a
position of tremendous responsibility and
the fact that he does it modestly and well is
probablv not observed by one out of a thou
sand. He begins at 12 o'clock in daytime,
and his life is simply one whirl of anxiety
as to the safety and welfare of others. He
Is always on his feet, with the exception of
an occasional rest on his high stool at the
corner, and from 12 until 12:30, a straighta
way 12 hours, he does his duty persistent
ly, honestly and well. On toward mid
night however, as the streets become more
and more deserted, his voice is not so loud,
nor his legs so nimble, and as traffic grows
less and less he becomes quieter and quieter,
and finally, as the 12:30 owl car slinks over
the hill, the last figure to swing silently,
sleepily on board is that of weary and worn
out and manly Harry Wynne. Null.
TH&MINEES OF T0-DAT.
How the Boota and Flannel Shlrls Havo
Given War to the Dudes From the East.
Gentleman1! Haeszlne.1
Gold mining is in many minds still asso
ciated with a fiannel-shirtedrJong-booted,
gambling class of doubtful manners, who,
with pick, shovel and pen, found fortunes in
the hill streams of the far West or of the
land jof the kangaroo. But this race of
miners is rapidly becoming aa ntinct as the
redskin of California or the black boy of
.Australia.
As the superficial deposits
which attracted the pioneers were exhausted,
the aid of machinery and science became es
sential, and a new order of things began in
troducing the capitalist, the chemist and
the engineer. Moreover, in their haste to
get rich, and, with their rough-and-ready
appliances, the early diggers only worked
the richest ground and passed over tons
acres of stuff that, with modern methods,
would pay handsomely.
To convey an idea of the perfection which
has been attained in some of the processes
of to-day one illustration will suffice. Dur
ing a quarter's (three months) working last
vear of the alluvial deposits of Daylesford,
Victoria, some 33,560 tons of gravel were
treated and gave an average yield of 18 J
erains trov of cold from each ton of eravel.
That is to say of all this enormous mass of
UJttMSiiaX UUK Up, 0u muuu u nyya-
atus and redeposited,only one eighteen hun
dred and fourteenth part was of value, the
other 1,813 parts being useless. In other
words, suppose an acre of land 15 feet deep
to be turned over, broken up to the most
minute proportions and bodily removed, in
order that it might be made to yield up a
hidden treasure in the form of fine dust the
whole of which could easily be held in a
small coal scuttle. And this was accom
plished presumably at a cost which left a
reasonable margin of profit These results
are altogether unparalleled in any'1 other
kind of metal mining. As a rule.the metal
or its ore forms the bnlk of the mass treated.
Thus, iron often constitutes 75 per cekt of
the mineral, lead 85 to 87 per cent, copper
78 to 98 per cent and silver 85 to 99 per
cent, while the gold in the case quoted only
amounted to .000118, or a little over one ten
thousandth part of 1 per cent
Facts Abont the Echo.
Blnghamton Bepnblican.
"What is an echo?" asked the teacher of
the infant class.
"It's what yon hear when yon shout," re
plied a youngster.
"Is it caused by a hill or a hollow?"
again asked the teacher.
"Both," was the ready reply.
"How so?"
"The hill throws back the holler."
An Electric DrilL.
Among the recent patents is an electric
drill which promises to almost revolution
ize mining as well as tunneling. It is run
by a motor, which has its power from the
electricity from a large dynamo of 400-light
power. It is stated that such a dynamo will
run 20 drills easily, each one with a capac
ity of boring on an average two inches a
minute in the hardest kind of rock and
more in soiter kinds. -
Two Travelers.
Farmer Harrer What yer got that drum
on th' dog fer?
Splatters (the tramp) Qb, it kinder
'ncourages the marchin'. All I hev t' say
is, "Yonj gits yer dinner soon, Roger." an'
be drums out Sherman's March jest
nat'ral as I heered it in Georgy. Puck.
J2"r
1J lr
PAGES 9 TO 16.
BENEATH THE EAETE
Oliver Oplic Tells of His Tonng'
Dreams and Later Experience.
THE-SALT CAYEEN OP WIELICZKA.
1
A Mine That Ha Been Worked for
Six Hundred Tears.
Ore
TEATELIH(J WITH A LABS 0YEBIEA1
tffnavtxs tos thz sxspatcbyi
What yon are now, my boy, I was once;
but it is more than halt a century ago.
They say that old men remember things
that happened long, long ago better than
events that occurred recently. In the
geographywhichlused in school when I
was a boy like you, was a picture of a scene
in the salt mine whose Polish name is gives
above. The text told a wonderful story of
things a long way underground, and I
wished very much to wander about in the
bowels of the earth among the scenes de
scribed in the text
The picture represented a workman ,.
doubled up in a narrow place, digging oat'
great blocks of salt I used to think ha
mnst have the backache, as I looked at him
year after year from that time to this, for I
have the book still. Since that time I have
seen that man, and I was inclined to present
him a bottle of liniment, for I believed that
he needed it
We were told in the book that whole vil
lages of people lived in the mine, and that
some of them never came out. All this was
simply fiction, for no one lives in the mine;
but in spite of the big stories it did tell, the
cavern is vastly more wonderful than tne
description. Alter I had walked about
seven miles throngh these subterranean
galleries I was sure that the half had not
been told. Wieliczka Is about six miles
from Cracow, the ancient capital of Poland,
where one may look upon the coffins of John
Sobieska, Poniatowskiand Thaddeus Koscic
XXSKO.
'WORKED FOB GENTTJErES,
Wieliczka is a town of 5,000 people. The
earth under it is honeycombed with excava
tions, beginning about 200 feet below the
surface, for three miles in one direction by
one mile in the other. The salt was discov
ered 620 years ago, and the mine has bees
worked all the time since.. There are said to
be over 400 miles of galleries and tunnels dug
out; but I did not measure them, though I
found no reason to doubt the statement In
fact, when I got on the face of the earth
again I felt as though I had walked 200 of
them, though I had really made but about
seven miles. These mines yield an annual
revenue of $1,000,000. Though pure white
salt is found there, most of the product is
mixed with a dark green. It is taken out
in pieces ot the average size of one's head,
or a football, and in this shape hauled to
Cracow in wagons.
Our party of three were on the way from
St Petersburg to Vienna, and we stopped to
see this wonder of our boyhood. The first
formality at the entrance of the mine was
to pay a tee of about $9, which covered all
expenses of the part). Onr retinue con
sisted of an official guide and four lamp
boys, and the stores consisted of a large
sunplv of fireworks. We were provided
with -'full uniforms ot green baize. Th
lamps were open pans, with several wicks'
at the rims, held by three" chainsv. so that
they could be dropped tcf the floor, to light
the way. f
There are two methods of descent; '0 w
a windlass, the visitors being seated in r..
sliegs, the other by a staircase. We we
taken down the stairs. They consisted ol
seven steps down from one platform to an
other, on each of which one turns around,
repeating the operation till the bottom is
reached. We went down 750 feet, but it
seemed to be about 2,000 when we walked
up. Some say the latter is the actual depth
of the mine, but it is better to discount
about half the statement
DOW1T I2T THE CAVEX2T.
The passages or galleries are very like the
corridors of a building. In places where
there was any looseness in the walls or ceil
ing they were planked; bnt generally the
visitor sees nothing bnt walls of salt rock.
Kear the foot of the staircase we were con
ducted to a chapel dedicated to the patron
saint of the mine. The apartment was
about 50x30. In a niche at the back of a
stage was a life-size crucifix. At the ends
of the stage were a statue of the king of
Poland and the saint The latter was a
duchess, and on the spot they believe that
the mine was discovered by men searching
for the lady's wedding ring which she had
lost There is another statue and soma
ornamental work, all of which'is carved oat
of the solid rock of salt
After looking at the chapel we took a
very long walk through the gloomy vaults,
till we came to an immense cavern, in
which a dozen city churches could be com
fortably stowed. The boys touched off soma
Eoman candles and the place was brilliantly
illuminated. This is the point, or one of
them, where it would be quite proper to 20
into ecstacies and "gush, for the cavern is
grand, and the idea of being hundreds of
feet below ground is appalling; but there la
no danger that the thing will "rave ip."
We went into another tremendous vault
of the same kind, provided with wooden
galleries above for the passage of the miners
from one part to another. Then we walked
more miles, passing monuments, statues, a
banquet hall, and fpllowinga railroad miles
in length, with cars drawn by.Kve horses,
buried as they were. In one of-these im
mense excavations we came fo a lake 47
feet deep. Moored to the shore was a fiat,
boat, big enongh to seat 20 persons, on
which we embarked for a sail on these)
Stygian waters. The craft was drawn by
wires, like many ferry-boat3 in the upper
regions.
TODER A LAKE.
When we were half-way across the lake a
boy let off a heavy cannon cracker, the
echoes of which resounded over and over
again through the awful cavern. We passed
under a gracefully turned arch into another
grotto, and then landed on the solid salt
again. A long walk down inclined planes
and an occasional flight of stairs brought
U9 to the lagt lion of the excavations, which
was a ballroom, brilliantly lighted fowour
reception. The Emperor of Austria, alter
whom it is named, has held court here. It
is provided with galleries and is liglited
with chandeliers made of salt The drops
are of the whitest kind, and they sparkle
like diamonds.
At one point in onr walk we were told
that the lake over which we had crossed
was directly over our heads; but the floor
was dry and there was no oozing overhead.
The ascent of the stairs was exceedingly
trying after the long walk in the depths
below. The lightboys seemed to be not at
all fatigued. They were forbidden to ask,
visitors lor money, and the officials enforce
the rule; but the boys are continually
thrusting their hands very slyly into posi
tions where a few kreutzers could drop into
them unseen by the incorruptible guide;
and it is very amusing to see them do this
at every opportunity.
At the head of the staircase certain per
sons .are permitted to sell carvings, snch aa
books and toys in pure white salt, aa souve
nirs of the visit of which our party carried
off a full supply. I had realized my dream
as a boy, and the book I brought away re
minded me for yenrsrtill it melted, of the
geography which had induced me to visit
the mines. Olives Optic.
The feminine defendant ia a 'divorce
case at Bockford, III, was defended by a
woman lawyer, proeaMy the first lastance ot
the kind on record. -
T.
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