"r - 16 THE PITTSBURG DISPATCH, SUNDAY, MAT - 26, 1889. COOKS AND COOKERY. Something About the Art of Catering to the Public Taste IK P1TTSBOBG HOTELS AED CLUBS. A Few of the Host Experienced Chefs and "What Their Duties Are, KATDEAL GAS AN INVALUABLE AID m warns toe Tin dispatch.: OWEN MER EDITH, in lines that are both poetical and j&ilosoph ical, states that we can lire without poetrj, music and art, but not -without dinners. "We can get along without theworks of our favorite au thors; bat the services of our jichiUe Berta, Chef of IM cooks are m J)uguesne Ulub. dispensable to our happiness yes, to our very existence. "We have all heard of the sorrowful fate of the horse that yas taught to live without eatinc, and even the example of Dr. Tan ner "has not had the effect of inducing more than a very small minority of human beinzs to try the bold experiment of subsisting on atmosphere alone. Scientists Ion? since dis proved the fallacy that the chameleon lived bv breathing only, and demonstrated con clusively that everything that exists re quires food. Man, the highest of animals, is naturally more particular than the rest as to what he eats, and in the civilized state demands that art and intelligent skill be used in the preparation of his viands. Civil diation and cooking go together only sav ages, and not all of them, are content to eat their lood raw. KETGS HATE BEE? COOES, and princes have taken pride in setting .before their guests banquets prepared with vt3ieir own roval hands. From the time of jaomer down to tne present day bards Have sung of the de lights of feasting, and have praised the discoverer of new lands and the in Tentcx ot new edible compounds in words ol eqn al warmth. Americans have long Kd the reputa tion of being careless as to -jvhat they eat and the manner in which it 5s prepared, but they axe fast out- rmirlnff It. nil tlA- coming quite as particular as other people. Indeed, the average American may now be said to know a good thing when be sees it or tastes it. He wants tbe best, and nothing else will sati.s'4y him. He travels more than he did a tew rears ago, and has more money to spend. His taste is improved, and it takes something more than the old-lasbioned simple viands to satisly his palate. Any hotel manager who has been in tbe busi ness long will testily to the correctness of these statements. Hence it has come about s&tjifyr T A mhmsinf Motel Dvquetne. that hotel-keeping and catering are con ducted very differently trom what they were 25 years ago. More variety in the bill of fare and better cooking are absolutely nec essary to prevent a falling off in patronage. But though tbe Americans are becoming good judges of food they are making far less progress in mastering the art of prepar ing it. An American could doubtless be come a culinary expert quite as rapidly as anybody else if he would study and master the art The trouble is he won't do it. Tbere is nothing alluring to him in a busi ness that requires him to spend many hours every day in a bot kitchen, serving a long apprenticeship before he masters its details; he would rather do- something else, even if it pays him less. Now, TO BE A XTBST-CI.ASS COOK requires years of experience. In Germany a youth who starts out to learn the trade must serve an apprenticeship of five years, without wages, and pay a sum equivalent to about 5300 to his instructor. In France a person muse enter the kitchen in youth, be ginning as a dishwasher or in some equally humble subordinate capacity, and advance by successive stages from one department to another until he proves himself possessed of sufficient knowledge and skill to be en trusted with the diiection of the cuisine. In this country we hear a great deal abont the enormous salaries said to cooks. We read of Yanderbilt's $10,000 cook, and of the vast income paid toDel- monico's chef, until we are half inclined to be lieve that there is no business or proression that is more profitable. '.The fact is, very few cooks receive more than adeauate recompense for ' wXflwMVHA tTipir lotinr sfiH efe-ill One of the oldest and most experienced chels in Pittsburg told me the other day that be Jiadore Blanc, D1Q nj oeneve were 2IonongahelaHoiue,fiere a dozen men in the country who got a salary of over 52,500 per year for cooking or superintending the kitchen of any establishment, private or public There are a number of very com petent chefs in this citr, and their salaries range irom 5125 to 5175 per month. Sev eral are paid 51,500 per year, bat the aver age would probably fall below that figure. The leading Pittsburg hotels and clubs each employ experienced chefs. A lew years ago tbey got along with such help as they could obtain at home, but a determi nation to keep up with the times has caused them to engage the best culinary talent wherever to be fonnd. Mr. John B. Schlosser, probably the most skilled caterer the city ever had, did more to raise the standard of Pittsburg cookery, while in the hotel business here, than any other man. This is the opinion of one of the best authorities on the subject in the city a gentleman who has himself been en gaged in catering to Pittsburg taste for a long time. Every hotel has its steward and assistant steward, who attend to tbe important mat ter of selecting and ordering the provisions for the house. At the Mouongabela House, Mr. "Woop, one of the proprietors, acts as stewaid, and Mr. Bean, of the Anderson, performs the same duty for his house. WHAT IT TAKES TO SpPPLY HOTELS. I had a talk the other dav with Mr. Adam Myers, steward of tbe Seventh Avenue Hotel, who has perhaps had a longer ex perience in his line of work than any other man in the city. I asked him about the quantity of provisions he bought daily. He answered: "Five hundred or 600 pounds of beef, 125 to 150 pounds of fish, 5 or 6 gallons of oysters when they are in season, and of game, poultry, vegetables, etc, quantum sufficit, tbe amount being somewhat variable, but always large" To select such a quantity of provisions, getting all fresh and ot good quality, re quires of course rare skill and good judg ment. The steward's office is certainly no sinecure I had often wondered how it was possible to minister promptly to the wants Cfex SloerkeU Seventh jlvenue xzvtct. of hotel guests when there was an unusually large run of cus tom, but 1 learned that sufficient sup plies to last a, day were always laid in at least 24 hours ahead, and if there is a shortage an at tach is at once made on the next day's supplies. I asked another stew ard if there was not necessarily a considerable waste of hotel provisions. "Not very much," he replied. "The greatest waste is of food after it is coofced. uuests usually order much more than they can eat, and leave quantities of food almost un tested. This, of course, is wasted; but of the provisions themselves there is comparative ly little lost, if the kitchen iS properly man aged. The secret of success is to utilize everything. A competent cook can take old hens and tough beef, if we happen to be deceived into buying such things, and pre pare them in such a way as to mase mem tender and palatable And so with every thing else there is nothing, unless it is sooiled, that something cannot be, made of it, if the coofunderstands his business. WHAT A CHEF HAS TO DO. The kitchen of a hotel or club is presided over by a chef, whose word is law in his do main. His duties are manifold, but, gen erally speaking, he works more with his head than with his hands. He prepares the bills of fare for the following dav and hands them to the steward, together with an esti mate of the quantity of provisions required. He superintends the work of his assistants, sees that the dishes are properly prepared and everything kept in good order Much of his time is devoted to studying up new ideas in cookery, striving to get together some sort of a delicacy that will strike the popular taste Sameness in the bill of fare is a thing to be avoided, and as there is nothing new in materials, it is no easy task to essay the preparation of a dish, com pounded ot the old ingredients, that shall appear new. Next to the chef is the second cook, who attends to the entrees and sauces. His work requires care and skill, and is considered the most important part of hotel cookery. Then there is the roaster, who prepares the roast meats; the frving cook ana his assistant, who cook meat, fish, potatoes, etc; the "butcher," who dresses poultry and cuts up meat for the cooks; the salad maker, who prepares salads and cold dishes; the vegetable cooks, usually women; the pastry cooks, the bakers, and finally the ice cream man, who prepares various deli cacies and desserts. "There have been great improvements in kitchen accommodations, as well as in the cooking, since I came to Pittsburg," re marked Mr. Oscar Storck, chef of the Hotel Anderson. "Our facilities are now -unsurpassed. You can also state that natural gas has been the greatest boon our cooks ever had. I should hardly know how to do with out it. "We can achieve far better results with less labor by its aid. X ATUEAL GAS A GEEAT AID. "It is gas as much as anything that has helped to give Pittsburg hotels the reputa tion for excellent cooking that they have among the traveling men of the country. When it was first used people seemed to think that meats could not be cooked rightly by a gas fire, but in reality tnere is no fuel equal to it. Our ranges are so arranged that the fire does not touch the meat the flame goes above it. The quantity of heat is easily regulated, and air is forced in with the gas to make a milder flame. The ap paratus is the best that conld be devised." Mr. Storck states that Americans are fast developing a fondness lor highly seasoned French aud German dishes, and are not now satisfied with the plain food which they preferred 25 years ago. Mr. Storck has had 27 years experience in his professionand has been employed at the Hotel Anderson ever since the honse was opened. The Hotel Dnqnesne has a very fine kitchen, andthe reputation of its table ii such that it is unnecessary to comment upon it here. "Francesco Ambrosini is the chef. He is a man of experience, wbohas lately been engaged for his present position, though he was formerly employed in tbe hotel as a cook. The Duquesne and Pittsburg clubs each . l... . aL.fn nllA MB I A lt 41. . nave very comjicieu men, j" vm ,Uc taste of some or tne nest jnagesoigooa cooking to be found in the city. At the former Signor Achille Berta, formerly of the Hotel Duquesne, is the presiding genius of the kitchen, and at the latter M. Henri Forcade, who was formerly employed at the Duquesne Club and in New York, and who has held his present position for three years or more. The Seventh Avenue, chef is M. George Stoerkel, a yourig man who, learned his trade in France. He has been in this coun try several years and at the Seventh Avenue for the past year. M. Isadore Blano is the chef at the Monongahela House. He was also taught his art . by French masters and understands it thoroughly. E. W. Baktlett. Guirsand revolvers, pistols etc., boys' target rifles and 100 cartridges. 52 75; splen did revolvers, double action, any caliber, 53; double barrel breech loaders, 58 to 5100. Great bargains in all kinds of guns. J. H. Johhsios, 706Smithfield street. ttssu t Fresh ArrlraL Just received from the Anheuser Busch St Louis brewery large supply of their celebrated Budweiser beer, in both quarts and pints. For sale at G. "W. Schmidt's, Nos. 95 and 97 Fifth avenue, city. ATTEND . THE GREAT WEST VIRGINIA STATE FAIR RACES AT WHEELING, W. VA., MAY 29, 30 and 31, 1889. Excursion Bates on all Railways. ms 26-49 VTOT1CB THE EXCURSION BARUE iM Bella Vernon will leave foot of Thirteenth su, S. K., at 10.30 A H. and foot of Wood st. at 11 A. M., and every two hoars thereafter for Windsor Park and McKee's Rocks. Ample accommmodations and perfect order maintained. Tbe Bella Vernon can be chartered for ex cursions by Sunday schools and lodges, etc. For terms apply at OFFICE, my2G-4S Room No. 13 Water st GRAND MUSICAL AND LITERARY , ENTERTAINMENT, To be given by the A- M. & L. S., FOURTH WARD SCHOOL HALL, Liberty St.. near East Park alley, TUESDAY EVENING, MAY 28, 1S89. ADMISSION, 25c. my26-S8 EACES EXPOSITION PARK DECORATION DAY. 2:40 Pacine Race for Batchers and Merchants, 2.50 Trottine Race. 234 Trotting Race, 250 Pacing Race and Pony Running Race. Ad mission, 60c: children, 25c. my26-23 DECORATION DAY EXCURSIONS Str. Mat flower to shtnjriss Pars, THURSDAY, MAY 80. Boat leaves foot Wood street 10 A. M.. 12 it, 2P.M14F. SI., 6P.M. Round trip 25c. my26-35 F. O.REINEMAN- KO .1T Rl CTTTTT Rl'ff VTrT Headquarters for Costumes of all descriptions, for hire at reasonable prices. mhl7-S0-Sa F. Q. REINEMAN. NEW ADVERTISEMENTS. B I J O U. THEATER. Under the Direction of..R. M. QULICK & CO. BY SPECIAX. REQUEST Two Farewell Performances. THURSDAY, MAY 30, (DECORATION DAY)' Matinee and Evening, The original and only BLIND TOM BIJOU PRICES: Reserved Seats, 75o, 50o and 25a This is positively the last appearance of BLIND TOM In this city. my2Wl NEW ADVERTISEMENTS. HARRIS'JTHEATER. KSSS Monday, May27 By Special Arrangement with MB. LOUIS AT.DRIOH, MY PARTNER By Bartley Campbell, Esq., Tbe play that made the fame of its author In a night. Next Week-STREETS OF NEW .YORK. my2&37 GUID OPJL Ml E.D.WILT Lessee and Manager. Week of May 27, Matinees: Decoration Day (Thursday) and Saturday. Matchless production of WflUrd Spenser's most, popular Comic Opera ot the present day,- the NEW ADVERTISEMENTS. WMM Illustrated by a Grand Company of 0 Artists, including R. R GRAHAM, J. ALDRIOH LLBBEY, LLOYD WILSON, t JOSEPH MEALEY, J. I". MoGOVERN. CATHERINE LTNYARD, HATTIE ARNOLD, MAMTP1 OERBL Dazzling Electrical Effects. Augmented Qhorus. Beautiful Costumes. Notice The programme used this weei per fumed with Lightner's Maid of the Mist my2S-8 Arrived at Last, oveb P. B. B., THE GREAT CMTEMIAL MMOR. THE LARGEST IN THE "WORLD. Took First Prize at Philadelphia Centennial .187a. NOW AT STCOUFS Band Box Cafe, 25 union street, my25-7S PITTSBURG, PA. PJJBK S mt "f 13 SoFATEN BME MfJTtijS31 w3 PIUL A "IH GUINEA SSsfl MEDICINE For Weak Stomach Impaired Digestion Disordered Liver. SOLD BY ALL DRUGGISTS. PRICE 25 CENTS PER BOX. " reparea" only by THOS.BEECHAM, StHelens,IancashirejEngIanrI. B. F. ALLEN & CO., Sole Agents FOR UNITED STATES, 365 &. 367 CANABi ST., NEW YORK, Who (if your druggist does not keep them) will mail Beecham's Pills onreceiptof price tottnguireJirstfPlcascmcnxionjhis paper.) STARTLING REDUCTIONS IN PEICES All over our Big Stores, forming a host of attractions never before equaled. Read and compare prices. 5,000 yards Figured India Silks, the newest, latest and richest designs, at 37c a yard, worth 65c 3,000 yards Satines, spring and summer styles,, an ex cellent quality, at 9c a yard, worth 15c. 3,000 yards, Chambrays, with handsome corded and embroidered stripes, at 8cr yard, worth 20c. 2,500 yards Cheviots,mixed, stripes, checks and side bands, at 19c a yard, worth 30c 350 dozen Ladies' Gauze Vests on sale Monday morn ing at 15c A rattling bar gain and a quality that usu ally sells at 25c Come early if you wish them. 300 dozen Ladies' Aprons in Swiss, Muslin and Lawn, .with drawn work, tucks and embroidery, at 16c, 24c and 39c each. An elegantvariety of Shaw Scarfs, handsomely embroid ered and frino-ed, in all, the delicate shades, including, Cream.at $1 24 and $1 74. Black Cashmere Fichus, embroidered, jetted and' fringed, at $1 49. Ladies' and Misses' Blouses, all-wool Flannel and Jersey Cloth, the largest assortment and best value in the two cities, at $r 99. Children's Caps, corded and embroidered, at 24c and 49c. Children's Wash Hats at 24c and 44a Children's Tarn O'Shanters and Fauntleroys from. 49c up. Millinery Department still in the lead. The busiest place in our big stores. NO CHARGE FOR TRIM MING and popular low orices the attractions. N. B. Housefurnishing (basement) An unparalleled assortment . Ice Coolers, Gar den Utensils, Ice Cream Freezers, etc., and the coolest place in the city. DANZIGEE & SHOENBERG, -stccBsacraa to- MOBBIS IS- JDAJSTZTG-JdlTl. SISTH ST. and ZFIEIDTIET AYE., - M Cl0NG 6 U vr CATTERS OMPffc M WE HAVE- BUT -ONE PRICE and hold out no al luring bargains in one department to facilitate the sale of goods at a high price in another. Every article in our store is a bargain. We have no "Lead ers" and therefore no lame and halt ing array of super annuated articles. Everything in our store is at the low est price and every department is con ducted in the inte rest of the purchas ing public NO DEADSTOCK and ire allow no de partment to get into a rut We are prompt to introduce novelties and quick to discern new cur rents of public de mand. Coming in Xo contact as we do with the principal and most reliable manufacturers of the country and with all classes of purchasers, the fault must be ours if we fail to satisfy every want, minister to every taste and meet every necessi ty -within the limits of our business. .:. SUPPLY AND DEMAND KEEP THE STOCK FRESH ! .. THE BIG HOLES MADE FROM DAY TO DAY ARE FILLED UP REGULARLY! SO THAT WE HAVE NO "CHESTNUTS," NO "LEFT-OVERS." EVERYTHING IS BRAND NEW! BRIGHT! CRISP AND FRESH FROM THE BEST MARKETS OF THE WORLD! Those who are at all'careful about their personal appearance cannot fail to profit by an inspection of the beautiful goods we have in our store. It has always been a matter of pride with us to gather together such goods as will best serve the double purpose of wear and beauty, and while our efforts heretofore have proved entirely satisfactory to our army of customers, yet we must confess that the goods we have gleaned from the harvest field this year overtops by one hundred per cent anything we have previously shown. You are invited to drop in and look over the magnificent grouping together of the best products of the world, so far as ready-made Clothing is concerned. There is here for you to look upon every shade and color of cloth; every combination that the genius of the inventor or designer could hit on and you must be blind to beauty and all that is tasteful if you cannot find something here to suit even the wildest dreams of your fancy. We always feel at ease in regard to prices. The small establishments make frantic efforts to equal them, but like climbing the greasy pole, they slide back into their abodes until such time as they recover from their futile exertions. VttFr BAYS5 CLOTHING. dapttd for all purposes, never had such a .splendid showing in quantity, variety, taste and low prices as this season, and its genuine excellence has won for us already an immense trade B'ut how couid it be bther wise? Wiere else 'could mothers take their boys and make their se lections from such a stock? Prices fiom $3 50 to $18. Good knock about long-pant suits at $3 50 and $4. Good all-wool Suits at 5, better than what aresold outside our store at $y and evenVS8. Fine sack and' frock Dress Suits at $8;" good vahaeat 11 and $12. Very fine Dress Suits, sack or frock styles, $10 cunly. HATS and CAPS. Men's Derbys, in all the latest spring shades, from 59c up to $3. Men's Tourist or Crush Hats, scores of different sj)ring styles, 48c to $1 50. Men's Straw Hats in all kinds of braid9r at prices guaranteed fully 25 per cent under the prices of all or any other deal ers. Every novelty in Boys' and Children's Hats in Cloth, Felt, Straw, at prices which are low enough to please everybody. MEFS STJTTS. Abundant, overflowing and unbounded bargains this week fpr everybody. The only question for you to consider is whether you want a suit We have thousands at all prices fronv5 to 30. We offer SUITS QUITE DRESSY at $5, $6 and $7. ' All-wool Suits, sacks and frocks, elegant for busi ness and semi-dress wear, $8. All-wool Suits in nobby light colors, neat medium colors, dressy dark colors; black or blue Corkscrews, plain Cassimeres, fancy Cheviots. Take your choice at $10. 'MEMBERS X Elegant Suits in Worsteds, sacks and cutaways; Scotches in sacks and frocks and genuine imported Irish Shannon Tweeds, etc., at $12. Magnificent Dress Suits, handsome and stylish goods in a most beautiful variety of patterns, fault less in make, $15. FURNISHING GOODS. Buyers of Furnishing Goods know how easily and quickly we knock out competitionbecause fifty cents invested with us is as good as a dollar spent in many other stores in this city. Underwear, Neckwear, Shirts, Shirt Waists, Collars and Cuffs, Hosiery, White Vests, Handkerchiefs, "Suspenders, Gloves, etc., etc., are what you can obtain here in latest styles and at lowest prices. Gr.-A-.R. Josh Billings Savs: "The bite of a hum bugg iz wuss than a hornet's and al ways different from a dog's, for the dog growls and then bites, but the hum bugg bites and lets you do the growlin'." JUST SO with the dealers who say they undersell us in G. A. R. outfits. Purchasers at any store other than ours those purchasers we mean who want to get the very best goods for the least amount of money are likely to do a heap of growlin' Now be advised. Come and buy your G. A. R. clothing of us. You'll not be bitten, neither will you do any growling, for you'll get reliable goods at a price to suit you. A complete assortment of White Gloves, White Vests, G. A. R. Hats, Caps, etc SUMMER CLOTHING A BREEZE FROM THE ARCTIC OCEAN. Buy your summer clothing here the coolest house in the city to trade in. We catch every breeze that blows and reduce the discomforts of summer shop ping to a minimum. What we haven't in thin sum mer clothing for .Men, Boys and Children, doesn't belong to the business. Coats and Vests in Linen, Seersucker, Alpaca, Lustre, Mohair, Serge, fancy Flannel, Silk Alpaca, Drap d'Ete, Jersey Cloths, etc SUMMER COATS, 19c to $4. COATS and VESTS, 98c to $8. A large assortment of Boys' Thin Clothing. MEN'S and BOYS' PANTS. A gigantic and mammoth assortment of Pants for Men and Boys of all sizes. Where other dealers are content with having their pants in any odd nook and corner in their store we have three separate and dis tinct departments for Pants and each one takes up as much room as the whole of the store of some of the smaller dealers. We have none but the latest styles and best qualities, and every length of leg and "width 'round waist CHILDREN'S CLOTHING is what we excel in. There's not a house East, West, North or South in this great country that can equal much more surpass our stock for quantity, quality or low prices. We could give numerous instances of people going to other store3 once (but only once) and then becoming steady and regular patrons of ours. Our prices range from 63c UP TO $10. Nobby Sailor Suits at '49c, 98c, ti 25. t 5 $ 3 H 5 U and 5- Elegant Kilt Suits at 98c, x 50, $2, $2 75, 3 50, $n and $5. 'Beautiful Jersey Suits at $2 25, tl, H S U 25, $S and $6. Magnificent Knee-Pant Suits at 98c, $1 25, $1 75, $2, $2 50, $3, $4, $5 and $6. SUMMER FOOTWEAR. of all kinds for all kinds of people, for all ages. That we are leaders of the Shoe trade is a fact which will admit of no doubt; that we offer better goods for less money than any other shoe dealer is a truth admitted by all in a position to know. We could take up the space of a whole paper in describ ing our stock, but would prefer peo- ple coming to see for themselves. WE GIVE FOR GUSKY'S ORDERS BY MAIL PROMPTLY ATTENDED TO. THE PEOPLE'S FAVORITE STORE, 300 to 400 MARKET' STREET. GUSKY'S EVERY CEST expended the full est value, because we give no credit and therefore incur no losses. The cash buyer is not taxed to pay for uncol lectable. accounts. There is no discrim ination made at our counters between the small purchaser and the great, the rich and the poor, the experienced and the inexperienced. All have the same advantages; to all are named the same prices. , WE ABSOLUTELY guarantee' every claim made in our advertisements to be strjctly true, and no employe is permitted to make representations a bout goods which cannot be sustained We have everything to gain by trading on the narrowest margin of profit possible. We could not fill our store with goods at the lowest prices known if we did not buy on a large scale and pay cash. We a couldn't do the big, business we do if we didn't sell at lowest figures. V . 4