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DISPATCH.
. T L
- SECOND PART,
r
THE PITTSBURG
, "l -J PAGES 9 TD 16.' '
THE WALLED CITIES.
A Description of Peking, the Capital of
the Great Chinese Ration.
STREET OP THE SUBJECT NATIONS.
How a Canadian Missionary Lost a Pretty
' American "Wife.
CURIOUS SCENES AT THE CITI GATES
COEHESPONDEXCE Of THE DISFJLTCH.1
Peehq, Chixa, December, 1888.
HE telegraph has be
come a fixture in the
holy city of Peking.
The mandarins now
use the wire and the
Emperor has his re
ports by telegraph from
the leading cities of the
kingdom. A Chinese
baby climbing a tele
graph pole, such as I
saw here this after
noon, is one of the
curiosities of the west
ern invasion of the
celestial dominions.
The winds from Mongolia fluttered its gar
ments in the breeze and its long cue hung
out like a streamer as it clasped its little
hands and toes about the smooth stick and
vainly essayed to mount Ten years ago
the Chinaman who dared propose the intro
duction of a telegraph into Peking would
have been a subject for official degradation.
The trouble with Russia, howeTer, showed
the necessity for such communication, and
there are now in China more than 6,000
miles of wire.
Slowly, but surely, "Western invention is
. .nJTZtiriJm .
Mongolian Camel.
making its way, and Li Hung Cbang, the
great viceroy, in a visit to Colonel Denby
at the American Legation not long ago,
said he expected to ride by railway to
Peking within a year. Now the journey of
90 miles from Tientsin has to be made by
pony, by donkey, or by cart, or the traveler
must come by boat up the winding Peiho.
The pony ride requires two days and the
boat takes from three to seven. The winter
mail of Peking has to be brought 700 miles
through the interior by relays of ponies, and
it then takes something like three weeks to
get a letter from Shanghai to Peking. The
Chinese, at present, profess to be well satis
fied with this arrangement The majority
of them 3o not want railroads nor telegraphs,
and tbey would, if they could, extend the
walls about Peking so high that they would
reach heaven itself, and effectually bar out
the "son or heaven," as they call their Em
peror, from all contact, direct and indirect,
with foreigners.
CHINESE CONCEIT.
The Chinese are the most conceited nation
on the face of the earth, and they think
their civilization is the highest in the world.
Thev entitle their Emperor the ruler of the
world, and the ordinary Chinaman, which
title includes nine hundred and ninety-nine
thousandths of the four hundred million
people making up their race, believes- that
all the world is subject to this boy of 17,
who rules the nation from his palace within
half a mile of where I am writing this let
ter. He thinks such of the American and
European nations as have representatives at
Peking are here solely to do honor to the
Emperor, that their countries pay tribute to
him, and the dirty street of Peking, along
which the American, German, Preach,
Russian, English and other legations are
located, is called by the Chinese "the street
of the subject nations."
"When it is considered how well the Chinese
Minister to the United States is treated at
"Washington, how he is petted by the Jest
ladies ot our society, and how our statesmen
throw open their houses and their arms to
him, the contrast between his position and
that of the American Minister to China, is
a national humiliation. The better class of
the Chineseoffer no social invitations to the
foreign ministers at Peking. Colonel Den
by, during his fonr years of efficient service
in China, has never seen the inside of a
Chinese gentleman's house. He has never
looked into the almond-eyes of the boy Emp
eror, nor has he set his foot insideone of his
palaces. He has never had an audience with
the Empress regent through her famous
gauze screen, and such calls as he has had
from the Ministers of foreign affairs have
Wall of Peking.
I"
been those of ceremony and business. Nev
ertheless he has paid his social duties relig
iously, and yesterday he sent his card to the
office of foreign affairs in honor of the
Empress' birthday. Our foreign minister
uses, of course, a Chinese card. It is a strip
of paper four inches wide and ten inches
loner, and its color is of a hue so red that it
would enrage the mildest bulL Upon this
in the blackest of ink is painted the large
Chinese characters which represent Colonel
Denby's name. Such cards are UBed every
where in China, and the larger the card the
bigger the man represented by it
a "vrojfDEnruL cur.
What a wonderful city is Pekingl How
big and how little! How old and how
young! How strong and how weak! It is
a conglomeration the strangest mixture of
matter and mind in the world of cities. It
was a city as far back as 1,100 years before
Christ, and it was the capital of China 1,000
years after Christ was born. It was the
capital of the whole Empire in A. D. 1264,
and with the exception of a short time it has
been the seat of Chinese Government since
the reign of Eublai Kahn. Its hair is thus
gray and its skin wrinkled in its years of
cityhood, but as a modern cityit is still in
its swaddling clothes, nay, rather it is just
born and it sprawls about in all the dirt of
neglected babyhood. It is the most filthy
spot on this fair earth's face, and the smells
of Naples, the dirt of Korea and the slums
or New York and London cannot compare
with it It knows nothing ot modern city
improvements. Its wide, miry, unpaved
I streets have no sidewalks, and the rude
k Chinese carts are dragged along up to their
X hubs in mud and filth.
,The streets are not lighted and the only
lntKW known are small ones of paper,
which make itunsaie to move about through
the dirt in the night time. Personal clean
liness is as uncommon as the city cleanli
ness, and the average Chinaman 'has only
two baths, one when he is born and the
other when he dies. There are no great
public buildings, and the shops and houses
are all of one story. The city contains more
than a million inhabitants, and these are
made up of the widely diverse elements of
the Chinese Empire.
"We have in America only the Chinese of
Southern China, and our idea of the Chinese
people is derived solely from them. Here at
Peking are the Thibetans, the Mohamme
dans, the Tartars and the Mongolians, and
the round-faced celestial rnbs his pigtail
against the big hats of the Koreans as he
wades along the streets. The Chinese Em
pire is represented, and one here sees what
might be called cosmopolitan Asia.
A PECUNIAE ANIJIAL.
The strangest sightstomeon first entrance
were the nomadic Mongolians who rode
into the citv on great camels or dromeda
ries, as unlike the camels of the Egyptian
desert as the fellaheen of the Nile are differ
ent from the coolies of the Yellow river.
They are larger and they have two fat
humps on their backs instead of one. They
are covered with wool instead of hair, and
this long, curly coating appears in all the
various shades of tan. They come herefrom
the cold regions ot Mongolia or Siberia by
the thousands, and during my visit to the
Chinese wall I passed caravans, each of
which numbered hundreds of these camels,
marching in single file, led by ropes fast
ened to sticks thrust through the thick flesh
of their noses, and bringing great loads of
furs from the north for the use of the dille
tauti mandarins of Peking, and carrying
back brick dust tea and coal to the Tartars
and Russians. Some of them are ridden by
brown-faced Mongol women, who, in coats,
pantaloons and fur caps, ride astride, and
the men are clad in sheepskins with fur
caps nulled well down over, their .fierce
Tartar eyes.
I see the Thibetan lamas in their gor
geous robes, and we have here a large lama
temple or monastery where these men have
one of the two living Buddhas of the world.
He is worshiped as a god, and when he dies
another Buddha will be chosen and the
Great Spirit will inhabit him and continue
the spiritual reign. Thibet, Korea, Siam,
Burmah, Mongolia, Manchuria and parts of
Afghanistan are all tributary to China, and
their representatives are all here. This city
is the capital of nearly one-tenth the culti
vatable surface of the earth, and from one
third to one-fourth oi the people of the earth
are governed lrom it and pay homage to it
The great Empire of China has a territory
much larger than that ot the United States,
and its population is greater than that of
the United States and Europe added to
gether. "What a capital for such a country and
such a people. It is made up, you know.of
three great walled cities, and the walls
about it are more than 27 miles in length.
There is a big Tartar or Manchu city in the
interior of which is the forbidden city.inside
the walls of which is the home of the Em
peror, and where the great palaces are
located. There is the Chinese city outside,
where the most of the business of North
China is done, and where the sights and
buildings do not differ much from those of
the narrow streets and low buildings of
other Chinese cities. There are, in the Tar
tar city, the thousands of residences of the
great officials of the government and here
are the great government departments
Plan of Peking, Stowing the Three Walled
Cities The Emperor Lives in the forbidden
City.
The American Legation.
A. Tempi 5 of Heaven.
which look for all the world like a set of
"Western cattleyard stables roofed with heavy
tiles, and ranged around barnyard courts
which are no cleaner nor better kept than
our stables themselves.
THE WALLS OP PEKING.
Prom the walls the whole great city looks
like an immense orchard, sparsely filled
with trees which rise high enough to shut
out theview of the low, one-story buildings
composing its houses. In one corner rises
the great temple ot heaven, a round towered
pagoda-like structure where the Empdror
periodically watches the slaughter of oxen
and burns them as sacrifices upon a big
marble alter. In another direction you can
see the walls of the forbidden city, with its
many yellow-tiled palaces shining in the
sunlight, and all around standing out
against the sky are the great towers which
rise story above story over the gates which
lead through the walls.
They are, to me, the most wonderful thing
I have yet seen in city architecture. Peking
is said to be the finest walled city in the
world. It is made up of three cities, all of
which are surrounded by walls, the greater
part of which are as'firm to-day as when
they were built hundredsof years ago. These
walls must have cost many million dollars,
and though useless now, they once made,
Peking a fortified city. The wall of the
Tartar city is the strongest. It is as high as
a city house of fonr stories, and its top has
a width of 40 feet, or nearly the width of
many a city street It is 60 feet at the bot
tom, and you could drive four wagon-loads
of hay along its top without crowding. It
is made of large gray bricks laid in blue
mortar, and the whole has become, through
age, one mass of stone.
At the top tffe outside walls, perhaps two
feet thick, rise four feet and make a fence to
the pathway between them. This is flagged
with stones, in the crevices of which the
grass is growing, and through which here
and there a tree has lorced its way and
grown big-trunked and long-branched amid
its rocky surroundings. The space between
the facings of the walk is filled with earth,
and the 16 great gates of the city have brick
towers of many stories, some of which are
built in galleries with port holes, and
which, over certain gates, rise to the height
of 100 feet. The gates are faced with stone,
and their arches are of solid granite. There
fe::
-
X-ama From Thibet and Attendants.
are great, round holes cut through this mas
sive wall, and within them swing heavy
wooden doors studded with many iron rivets.
These are. closed when the sun goes down,
and are not opened again until the morning.
Through these outside fences, above the
walk on the top of the wall, are holes
through which arrows might have been
hot, or perhaps a musket barrel pushed
f ' L"l
fill
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through. They are not large enough for
cannon, and to-day there are no soldiers
keeping guard along these great military
highways. Here and there is a rude hut
built upon the stones for a watchman, but
the most of the walls are free for all, and
they form the promenade for the foreign
residents of the city. At each of the gates
there is a third wall which runs around it,
inclosing a space of several acres, and
making a double fortification at this place.
THE CITT GATES.
The scenes about these gates are among
the liveliest in China. A ceaseless stream
of yellow humanity of celestials high and
low, and of Asiatic four-footed beasts con
tinuously pushes its
way through them.
Here goes a caravan
of camels. There comes
a dozen men each
pushing a Chinese
wheelbarrow loaded
with goods,and behind
them is a Manchu
woman astride of a
donkey. She has pa
per flowers in her hair
and rouge a quarter of
an inch deep upon her
cheeksl Here is a half
howls for alms as he
Beggars of Peking.
naked beggar who
crowds his way through the dirty mass, and
there is a Manchu omcer who canters along
on his pony and does not seem to care
whether tie knocks down the poorer people
or not. Behind him is a mandarin in a blue
sedan chair, a train of 50 servants before and
behind him, and a drum major leading the
list with a red umbrella on a pole about 20
long which he holds up in front of him, and
warns the people to get out of the way for
the great man who comes.
Outside the gates and inside the inclosure
area thousand and one street cookshops,
whose greasy food is cooking in the open air
and is being eaten by greasier Chinese. There
are poor men on toot and noblemen on horse
back. High muckamucks in carts and
coolies carrying great loads on their shoul
ders. It is a queer conglomeration, but it
is a business one from the word go. There
is no foolery about these Chinese. Life is
a serious matter to them and they are work
ing the world for all it is worth.
One sees very little of the residences of
the Chinese nobles. They live in large ill
closures surrounded by walls so high that it
is impossible to look over them, and entered
by gates which are guarded by doorkeepers
who admit only the favored few. Some of
the residences contain many acres inside of
these walls, and the buildings are made np
of a number of one-story structures scattered
here and there about the grounds. All of
the foreign legations are of this nature and
the secretaries and the Minister of the
American legation live in such an inclosure.
The Government pays between 52,000 and
53,000 a year for it, "and America is, I am
told, the only foreign nation represented at
Peking which does not own its own build
ing. CUBtOTJS DUTIES.
The Foreign Ministers have some curious
duties, and their mail as to Chinese matters
contains requests quite as queer as some of
those made to the President of the United
States. Several score of autograph fiends
have been pestering Colonel Denby for au
tographs oi the uninese .emperor, a signa
ture as difficult to procure as that of the
angel Gabrel written with a quill from his
own wings. The Chinese Emperor is quite
as sacred in China and to Chinamen as
Gabriel is to Christians. Other Americans
want contracts from the Emperor, and they
evidently suppose that China is jumping at
Western ideas and "Western brains. They
put the celestial intelligence on a very low
plane, indeed, and ask the most ridiculous
questions as to whether if they bring their
wives to China tbey can find suitable ac
commodations for them. They do not real
ize that the open ports of China have as
good hotels and as pleasant social circles us
you will find in any American citv, and
they evidently think that the foreigners
here live in mud huts, sleep in the Chinese
bakeovens and eat with chopsticks.
j. The Consuls do the marrying lor Ameri
cans in China, and both the English and the
American legation have had to do with a
curious matrimonial venture this week.
The meeting of the lovers was as schoolboy
and schoolgirl in a small college in one of
our "Western States. They were merely ac
quainted and there was no love between
them. The boy was a Canadian with pro
nounced theological tendencies. The girl
was a Missourian endowed with beauty and
full of common sense. The Canadian, after
graduation, was sent by the American Board
of Missions to China, and he was assigned
to a post about 30 days ride from Peking in
the wild regions of the Chinese mountains.
He labored withhis charge for a number
of years, but his lonely work caused him to
cast about for a wife. He bethought him of
his old schoolfellow and opened a corre
spondence with her. The correspondence
ripened into an engagement and he per
suaded the young lady to come out here to
marry him. The American Board of Mis
sions furnished her the money for the trip.
She traveled 13,000 miles to" meet her af
fianced husband and he came from his home
in the mountains and waited for her at
Peking. She had first to come to Japan,
then to Tientsin, and leaving the steamer to
go by cart or boat the two or three days'
ride of 90 miles to this point
A PLIGHTED EOMANCE.
The marriage was to take place upon her
arrival, aud the groom went to the Ameri
can Minister and asked him to marry them.
Colonel Denby replied that the only man
who could perform the marriage was Mr.
Smithers, the American Consul at Tientsin,
and that they would have to live 40 days in
his consular jurisdiction before theceremony
could be celebrated. He told the young
man that he must register at the English
consulate the fact that he was about to
marry, inasmuch as he was a Canadian. The
groom thereupon went and begged Sir John
Walsham, the English Minister, to perform
the ceremony. Sir John refused, unless the
American Consul was present, and the groom
was again in despair. He at last telegraphed
Mr. Smithers to come to Peking at his ex
pense, but before he conld start the prospect
ive bride and groom called upon Mr. Smith
ers at Tientsin and told him that they had
concluded to wait the 40 days and be mar
ried there. According to the English law it
was necessary that they should, a few days
before the marriage, go to the English con
sulate and swear that neither of them knew
anything to prevent their being wedded.
The 40 days were up last week, and during
the earlier part of the week the two appeared
at the English consulate and, kneeling
down, placed their hands on the Bible and
affirmed that they wished to be married and
that they knew nothing to prevent it
All ol this time the Canadian was stop
ping at one missionary's house and the girl
was being entertained at another's. He
made but few calls upon her and evidently
considered the whole thing a matter of
business. The girl, who was of a loving
nature, wondered whether she had not made
a mistake, and the day after the meeting at
the English consulate she concluded she
had. She called her lover to her and told
him the match was off. She said she had;
come all this way to marry him, she was
poor, but she had saved a little money; she
would rather reimburse the American mis
sions than carry out the engagement She
said she knew she could make her living by
teaching, either in Japan or in America,
and she preferred to do it The lover stormed
and threatened the girl. He made matters
worse instead of better, and the match is
now off for good.
The cold Canadian is the maddest mis
sionary in China, and he has betaken him
self again to his mountains. The girl is at
Tientsin waiting a ship to carry her to
Nagasaki, Japan, where she will, I under
stand, engage teaching in a missionary
school. Fbank G. Caepenteb.
A Valuable Document.
One a Week.
Clerk fiond yon wish to to deposit?
Dude Naw; it's a receipted bilhfor my
tailor firsnone I ever had value it as er
ah sort of ah curiosity, donchnknow?
PITTSBURG, SUNDAY,
EILET. HAGGARD NYE
Beyels in the Sun BeltBetween. Du
luth and the Far-Off Winnipeg.
ELEPHANT HUNTING IN STILE.
African Prevarication laid Bare and Ele
phant Shooting Exposed.
AN ADVENTURE WITH A TEAIN BRUTE
rWEIITIN FOR THE DISFATCH.l
In the Exhilarating Northwest, 1889.
THE cold of
Minnesotahasbeen
greatly exaggerat
ed by rival States,
and though at
times the thermom.
eter lowers itself in
the estimation of
society, the cold is'
of such a dry
bracing character
as to seem almost
oppressively hot to
those who are not
accustomed to it
The eye sparkles,
the step is elastic,
and the rich blood mantles to the nose, as
the gaily caprisoned droska speeds blithely
through the palmetto groves of the thrifty
Occident
Many Southern people come to St. Paul
and Minneapolis, it is said, in order to
escape the rigors of their own winter. The
banana belt extending from Duluth to Win
nipeg reminds one of tropical Africa. Last
week Mr. Riley Haggard and I started out
for a little elephant shooting in the country.
Bidding farewell to the concierge at the
hotel, we packed our heavy express rifles
and smoothbore elephant guns, penetrated
as fur as the sleeping car could convey us,
and bidding farewell to our faithful Wan
"Wenga, who caressed us both with a whisk
broom to the value of 20 scudi, we hired an
elephant apiece and began to permeate the
jungle, Dreceded by our trusty bird dog.
Nye is a Lion Tamer.
At the kraal or livery stable, where we
engaged our elephants, we were told that
game was very plenty about 30 miles across
the dinglelow and that in a small forest of
jingsnag trees and hoola bushes quite a
covey of quagga and elephants had been
scared up by a Boer who had penetrated
the jungle accompanied by his brakje or
dog. l i
THE FIEST ENCAMPMENT.
The first night we camped beneath the
shade of a "Vienna bread fruit tree on the
borders of the Karroo, and, preventing the
escape of our trusty elephants by attaching
their trunks, we began to prepare our even
ing meal. 1 read the directions from a book
of African travel and my very faithful com
rade, Mr. Riley Haggard, did the cooking.
First refreshing, ourselves with a long
draught from a gourd of spoopju from
Peoria, marked 1842, so called because it is
placed on the market 18 hours and 42 min
utes after it is made, our faithful gun bearer,
Ylang Ylang, began to carve the bultong,
Meiboss, and jerked muskrat for the even
ing meal. Making a bright fire of karroo
bushes and fresh train figs, a wad of mealies
was soon simering over ihe coals, while the
odor of Cincinnati bultong pervaded the
tropical forest.
Ylang Ylang, our faithful valet, who has
made his name a household word because of
his search after Schwatka and One Night
Stanley, said that according to the books of
African exploration it was now time to bed
down the elephants. After doing this he re
turned and proceeded with the cuisine.
We had hardly swallowed our supper, and
Mr. Riley Haggard was about to climb a
date palm to secure a few luscious lecture
dates, when our ears were saluted with a
most unearthly and ear-piercing roar from
the heart of the jungle. At this moment
our faithful Ylang Ylang came in with eyes
sticking out like a sore thumb to announce
that our bird dog had flushed a large Abys
sinian lion.
t WAEM DRESSING PUT ON.
Hurriedly putting a little Mayonaise
dressing on our faithful Ylang Ylang we
sent him to parley with the lion while we
put on our telegraph climbers, and filling
our pockets with bultong we ascended a
Duluth palm tree.
".4 Hunting We Will Go."
"We had not long to wait! The wang
wanga bashes parted and a low, heavv set,
performing lion crept softly into the "open
Kerroo, preceded at a distance of about
three-quarters of an Sich by our faithful
Ylang' Ylang. As th poor fellow jumped
a low Kirdish bush, I heard a crunching
'sound such as I hope never to hear again,
and turned away my head rather than see
our trusty gun bearer in the act of backing
into a lion.
As soon as I could regain my courage by
a small nip of spoopju, I looked back at the
sickening spectacle. All was still save the
distant song of the red-breasted blim Warn
in the Koojoo bushes.
"MADE THE LION QUAIL.
Suddenly remembering how I had once
seen a lion tamer make a lion quail, I de
scended from the tree, and taking a small
riding-whip with me. I said. "Hi!" and
I whipping him across the forelegs, in the
uieuuuuie irequenuy mating the remarK
"hi' I drove him away from there. Out of
the kraal, down the sloot or dry water
course and across the Karoo lands he sped
and so on back, to "Winnipeg, where he
joined his congress of rare wild beasts, as I
afterward learned.
Hastilysaddlibg our elep'hants and secur
ing them tightly, so that the howdah could
FEBRUARY 10, 1889.
not slip around under the stomach of the
noble beast, we mounted by means .of a
freight car standing near by" and returned
across the transvaal, whatever that is and
hiring a diligence, we packed our remaining
supclr of bultoner. elephant tusks, spoopju.
penmican, elephant blubber, sacred cow-
meat, dried yat, iirooiiejam, .omwauKee
Heidsick and a glossary ol hard words from
Rider Haggard, and took the cars at Stan
ley Pool, resolving to penetrate still further
into the tropical depths of the Northwest
I had been told by the real estate men
both at St Paul and Minneapolis that the
winter here was "very much like that of
Singapore, but I would not have believed
it eveu then if I had not personally tried it
Yesterday I associated for some time with
the champiod bete noir. As a bete noir he
could give a self-made moral leper 30 points,
and still sail out of the game in a blaze of
red fire and a cyclone of applause. He was
tolerably stout, and when he sat down on
my valise and crushed a bottle of Edenia,
presented to me by aa admirer in Kentucky,
I reproached him in measured and well
chosen terms, but he just trotted his embon
point on the other knee a little while and
watched the ever-changing kaleidoscope as
it sped past the window.
When the conductor came into the carthe
bete noir had no ticket, so he tendered the
regular fare. The conductor was sorry, but
would have to trouble him for 10 cents more,
as it was paid on the train. The bete noir
called me to witness that he tendered the
regular fare, and that he would be eternally
ostracized, embalmed and fricasseed in the
southeast corner of Satan's hottest precinct
before he would yield any more. The con
ductor was a pale, blonde man, who only
gets mad every four years, but little hectic
spots broke out behind his ears, and a
strange light came into his gentle bine eyes.
Uome over nere a moment, Shorty, ne
said to the rear brakeman. "Go and tell
Skinny "White, on the second day coach, to
come back here .with vou. "We've got a
large Suffolk in Section 2 that we will have
to put into a cornfield, I guess. Tell him
to bring the ,ice tones out of the baggage
car."
AN UNAVOIDABLE DELAY.
Then the bete noir tied his legs around
the car seat and the train stood still, the en
gine bell ringing, but 200 people waiting
the motion of a man who refused to pay 10
cents extra because !fe had failed to get his
ticket at the station.
Shorty and Skinny both came back with
a look of determination and gloves that had
the fingers cut off. Each spat on his hands
and took hold of the dead bete noir. They
lifted him a little and Shorty fell over into
my lap with a small wisp of the fat man's
lingerie in each hand. They both grabbed
at him again and took out little handfulls
of bristles as one does who tries to pull a
reluctant shote from a scalding barrel on
butchering day. At last they lifted him
and expedited him along the aisle, from
seat to seat, as he took little mementos from
the features ot law-abiding passengers, who
were all getting farther and farther behind
time and losing connections because the
bete noir wouldn't pay his 10 cents.
One man said, "Here! I'll pay the 10
cents. Great heavens! I've got to lecture
at Tailholt, Ind., to-morrow, and if I do
not get there I lose 58 and my expenses."
But the passengers said, "No, he must
pay it himself. We will assist in hanging
him to a dried apple tree, but we will not
allow anybody to pay his 10 cents for him."
Just as he was falling off the platform
into a cattle guard, the bete noir paid his
10 cents and remained. The heavy train, 20
minutes late and liable to lose its rights on
the road, tried to start up grade. The bete
noir with his bristles down his spine column
and his wealth of viscera trembling like a
jelly roll, stole my paper and took a seat.
That night he snored like the sough of a
bathtub, chewed invisible- food, put a stoc
cato inflammatus at the end of each snore
and scared two tittle motherless children
awake with his Btentorious recitals. He re
ceived a slight testimonial ever and anon,
until morning, when his berth looked like a'
boot and shoe store. In the morning he
BATHED TOE OVEE AN HOUB,
while the rest of the people stood around
with draped sflspenders, saying things
which would look sadly out of place in a
Dinner a la Carte.
pure, nice paper like this. He bathea his
concave mug and sozzled and spattered and
blew and bellowed till he got his nose to
bleeding. Then he got wild and decorated
that whole.end of the car till it looked like
the battle of Gettysburg. Finally peace was
declared, and just as he left the field we
drew into St Louis. Twenty exasperated
men, unkempt and unwashed, went out of
the car and slunk away to find a hotel. I
was one of them. -But I could not slink
away until I found my overshoes. They
were gone! I reached under the seat and
burned myself on the heat pipes, almost
burst my head open trying to look under
the other seats, and then the porter said
that "Depassy gentleman innumber 'leven,
sab, took those obah shoes, I reckon. He
looked kind of doubtless when he lit out.
like he expected to be shot befo' he got
home."
"Well, which way did he go?" I in
quired. "Well, sah, he went up toads de stock
yahds, sah, and when I saw him lasht he
was a wearin' the eye of a gentle old lady
from Shakerag, HI.", on the end ob his um
brella, sah."
I can imagine snch a man in his home
life. He plays the'poor, sick papaact when
he gets home and eats np all the jam, and
digs the tenderloin out of a steak, and the
poor old thoughtful hen comes and contrib
utes to poor,, sick papa her latest aud best
work. His poor, meek wife wishes that
heaven hadmade her a better assignment,
and his children run and conceal themselves
when he comes home.
When the excitement incident to the
resurrection has died away, I shall be sur
prised if the patient, sad-eyed wife, and the
scared children on the parlor floor of heaven,
do not receive a note by messenger boy from
"Poor, sick Papa,'y asking them, if they
can consistently do so, to use theirinfluence
toward getting'the Celestial House Co., No.
1, to play for a few hours in the overheated
apartments of "Poor, sick Papa."
t Bill Nyk.
SOMEWHAT REMARKABLE.
Hovr the FIrat Lawnnlt In the Quaker Com
manwcnltli was Settled.
The first lawsuit tried in the Province
of Pennsylvania was an action for assault
and battery. The case caffle up in the courts
of Chester county, September 13, 1681. Peter
Erickson sued Harmon Johnson and wife
for the offense. The defendants were found
guilty and fined sixnence and costs. On the
same day Harmon Johnson and wife
brought suit against the same Peter Erick
son for tho offense with which he' had
charged them. The' jury found for the
plaintiffs and gave them 40 shillings dama
ges and the costs of the suit.
It is a little singular fact that the first
lawsuits ever brought' in the Quaker colony
should have been of this character.
TEUE ART'S UTILITY.
Onida Believes Modern Science -is
Killing Love of the Beautiful.
THIS IS BUT A WOEK-A-DAY WOEID
The Study and Pnrsnit of Rare Paintings
and China a
HEALTHY EMPLOYMENT FOR THE MIND
WBITTI-K JOE THE DtfeFATCH.
THERE is a
school nowdays.dan
gerously prominent
which, addressing
itself to the greeds
and egotisms of
mankind, professes
itself to send forth
the prophets and
preachers of utility
as opposed to beauty,
and to decry and in
jure the arts as the
chief ministers and
creators of a beauty
without use. There has, probably, been no
period in the world, save that of its utter
barbarism, in which absence of beauty was
so tolerated, so little perceived, . as in this
century. Every development of modern in
vention and of modern science tends to this.
In a truly resthetic generation machinery
could have no place, its assistance ana us
marvels would be too entirely overbalanced
by the ugliness of its concomitants, the deso
lation surrounding its precincts and the foul
odors accompanying its employment All
the uses of mineral oils could never compen
sate to nations of fine artistic sense for the
frightful hideousness and pollution perforce
created by oil wells and oil works. No
swiftness of travel and rapidity of commu
nication could ever make up to a world of
true cultnre for the filth and darkness of
great railway junctions, the deformity of
elevated railways and the coal dirt and
smoke fog inseparable from the employment
of steam engines on land or sea.
Machinery is in its infancy; it is very
possible that electricity will so perfect it
that it may in time become beautiful and
noiseless and inodorous; but its domination
is wholly irreconcilable with any beauty of
architecture and landscape, and the society
which endures it must consent to renounce
all title to a place among the lovers and
leaders of either natural or artificial loveli
ness and grace. Those who admire this and
have their preferences for it and indifference
to its injuries on the ground of its general
utility are more logical than the larger
number who endeavor to build a cathedral
and a factory chimney with the same bricks
and who erect .their art schools in the same
street with their gas works.
HAS BEATJTT NO INFLUENCE.
Leaving aside the first question, whether
or no the uses of machinery do adeqnately
compensate for its destruction of nature, of
architecture, of bodily health, and of at
mospheric purity, let us examine a little,
the truth of this accompanying assertion,
that the arts have no utility, that beauty
per se has no influence upon mankind at
large, that the butterfly might just as
well be as ugly as the cockroach, for any
good that its loveliness is to those who look
upon it j
The word utility is vague and of many
meanings; modern life has increased a hun
dredfold the needs and demands, of the hu
man race, 'and. this. fact in itself is of ques
tionabla ntilityj' the 'wants of the Greek
hero of Thales' time were few, the wants of
the .London, .fans or ssew xorK operative
are many; civilization has indefinitely
multiplied the requirements of life, the
higher utility would surely be to diminish
them. Herbert Spencer could not live as
Socrates did; the plowman of to-day de
mands more luxury than Alfred the Great
commanded; the nursemaid, with her pin
cushion and her teapot, has more comfort
than Elizabeth Tudor had at her hand.
Is the increase in personal wants coupled
with the decrease in external beanty of
real utility? Is not that impersonal and
aesthetic beauty wnicn is given by the arts
of infinitely truer use to the mind and heart
of man that the fretful and unappeasable
discontent begotten by the sight and touch
of cheap luxuries which are often just by a
hair's breadth beyond the reach of attain
ment? If cities and machines and manu
factures continue to increase and devour all
beauty before them at the ratio which the
last generation has seen, the arts must re
cede and in time perish under them as the
Latin civilization retreated and gradually
disappeared before the advance of the bar
barian hosts on Rome.
A DEAETH OF LOVELINESS.
The two essential conditions for the exist
ence of the arts, especially of the plastic
arts, are natural and physical beauty in the
world which is about them and in which
they move and create. The poverty of
beauty in the plastic arts of the present day
is but the result and . reflection of the un
loveliness of life, especially of civil life, in
modern times. "When a painter or sculptor
still produces beauty like a Leighton or
Hildebrand, he is thought affected by a
generation which has forgotten what natural
beauty is.
As yet there are still cities which are full
of light and shade and color; there are still
lands in which the seasons come and go in
undimmed loveliness; there are still forests
and moorlands which are undisturbed,
waters which are unpolluted, peasantries
who are undelormed by the clothes of the
cheap tailor and the ready-made shop; there
is still natural and physical beauty enough
to sustain some at least of the traditions of
art; but these growfewerandfewereveryyear:
every year wider and wider grows the pall or
smoke, the weight of bricks, the obliteration
of local color, local costume, civil Idiosyncra
cies, noble architecture and ancient ways.
It is better .for a man to collect the paintings
of an epoch or the drawings of an old master
than to lose his substance over race horses or
adventuresses.
PUESUIX OF AET.
The time spent In the study and pursuit of
art by those who seok in it the embellishment
of existence is time spent healthfully and
peacefully in interests which will perpetually
ex pand into fresh chancels and make .fresh
and fruitful ground which otherwise would be
barren and choked with weeds. It is easy to
caricature and ridicule the connoisseur who
cares only for befoie-letter impressions, for
antique coins and medals, for Karl Taeador
cups, for chalk sketches of Montegna, lor etch
ings of Durer or Callat, for editions of tbeAl--dine
press", or whatever special form an artistic
preference may take. But in truth such pref
erences are of infinite use in the world by their
preservation of so much which without them
might perish, and the man who has such a
taste, even if it be a narrow and exclusive one,
will at least have one side in blm which is open
to delicate impressions and impersonal inter
ests, will at least be likely to possess accurate
and interesting knowledge on one subject if on
no other.
The connoisseurs are those who have carried
on to one generation the art of another, who
have rescued from the dust and refuse of time
those jewels which the hurrying crowds would
have trampled under foot; the man who gives
3,000 guineas for a writing table with placques
of Fragonard and gilt bronzes of Gauthiere is
not the mere selfish and extravagant person
which he may appear to the uneducated; he
preserves, and not for himself alone, an object
interesting and valuable both historically and
artistically over which its great prfce is cast as
an xgls to save it from oblivion.
A preference for any style of engraving or
any kind or porcelain may be wisely welcomed
in young people as the nucleus of a taste which,
with cultmre and scope, may become a deep
andaccumte comprehension of art. A boy who
has enouoti feeling and intelligence to collect
snch smajl old wood cuts of Bewick's or Delia
Bella's, ot as may come within the means of
his pocket money, will not be likely when he
comes;of age to waste his patrimony In billiards
and brandy. A child whose young eyes have
been trained to delight in a Marghen's
Raphael or an Edelerick's Holbein, or who has
understood! the beauty of a rose window in a
minster or in ailantus cipital In a hall will not
be likely in after years to send his hereditary
portraits to the hammer to pay his racing or
his gaming debts. Ouioa.
The Buried River;!
A Romance
."WRITTEN POB
JOA.QXJXN"
S
SYNOPSIS OF PRECEDING CHAPTERS.
The story opens with a resume of the history
of the mysterious Buried Biver, flowing be
neath the Rocky Mountains and deep down in
the bowels of the earth, the bed of which Is
paved with virgin gold. John Gray, the son of
an American army chaplain killed irf battle,
goes to Rome to study painting. There be
meets a wealthy American who Is dying Of con
sumption, and who wi3hes his portrait painted
before he dies. Gray paints the picture, re
ceiving in payment gold dust. The dying man
confides to the artist that he has discovered the
Buried Biver, and tnat it is the source of his
wealth. Before he can impart the secret of its
location, beyond the fact that It is in California,
he dies. After air unavailing search among
Spanish records for farther Information. Gray
starts for California to continue his search. At
Mt. Diablo he takes possession of a rained hnt,
and there he meets F.irla, the danghter of the
owner of tho land. The girl, who believes he
is a surveyor who Is seeking to dispossess her
father, warns him to leave or he will be killed.
The argue the question for some time, when
the girl discovers that she already loves the
artist.
CHAPTER V.
FABLA SILVIA.
"And you are an artist; a painter? "
"I am; or at least hope to be."
The glittering, Bright eyes of the girl
ABOARD THE EGG
flashed about the room under the black
brows that almost ran in luxuriant arches
together, and instantly she asked:
"Where is your easel ? ""
The man's face flushed a little, and she
continued:
"You see I know what an easel is and
what a palette is, and all that. There are
Italian painters in San Francisco, and Por
tuguese, painters, too. The Portuguese
painters are the best; then the Italian paint
ers come next; after that the French. The
Americans come last."
He now was more embarrassed even than
before. Here was a girl in the heart of the
California redwoods who confessed to little
or no familiarity with schools or books, but
she was capable of going straight to the
heart of things with a precision that was
astonishing. And what seemed singular,
too, from the first she used little or no slang,
and no dialect at all. In the books of Cali
fornia life and character which he had
read persistently since embarking in this
one enterprise of his life he had encountered
little else but coarseness, slang and coast
dialect. There the dialect had a singular
flavor of Dickens; often, indeed, sounding
much as if it had walked right along side
of Mr. Pickwick and hovered around his
eloquent lips all its days withont one par
ticle of the flavor of California life or man
ners in it, but for all that he had accepted
it, along with the rest of the world, and so
now conld not help being a bit amazed. -
"You see wePortuguese are not all fisher
men and crag-climbers and gatherers of sea
birds' eggs on the island," continued the
girl as in an absent-minded sort of way her
right hand fell down and tore off the yellow
head of a tall California poppy that had
grown up through the earthen floor and was
tiptoeing np to try and peep out at the door.
"No, Miss, I know that Portugal has a
history. Portugal sailed ships far this way
long before Coloabas. Portugal brought
your favorite fruit of California, the
orange, from China even before America
was heard of. And to this day an orange
in Italy is not called an orange. It is
called rena Portugalo."
The lowering black eyes looked not so
stormy now. The man had in a few earnes
words regained nearly all his lost ground.
"Well, the way I came to know about
painting was this: Father has a friend who
is a painter. This painter was doing some
fresco work for Saint Ignatius, the church
in San Francisco. He wanted to paint my
hair, so father let Sanello go with me and
sit and be painted.
"And who is Sanello?"
"Sanello mea," answered the girl. "You
understand?"
"I understand you perfectly; and Sanello
is vour sister."
f'Ye, we called her Sanello when she
came; and it has been Sanello ever since;
although she is almost a grown girl now;
and and she has a lover." This last sen
tence was uttered in a soft voiced naive sort
of a way as the eyes fell to the floor; and
the petals of the California poppy fell in a
little yellow shower at her feet
"And your name is " 8
"Farla."
"Farla?"
"Yon don't like it?"
"Don't like itl I like it much. It is new,
and it is pretty as the lady who bears it; and
that is saying saying well, more than I
dare to say now."
The dark brows grew a bit darker at this.
The man had lost ground by his gallantry.
"They called me Farla because when I
was born father was gathering eggs from
those islands you see away out yonder
through the golden gate. No, I know that
is not the long Spanish name of the islands,
but it is the short name that they go by now.
FarlaFarla Silvia."
"Sanello Silvia has a lover; and Farla
Silvia surely deserves a dozen."
The girl's foot went backward and rested
quite nutsidethe door sill. Ahand tore a
thistle top till there.was blood on the .fin
gers; but she did not know or care that she
was fighting a battle with the tall armed
weed that had grown up rank from the
blood that had been shed there, and was
trying to barricade the door. But the man
read by the strange, fierce light that leaped
;3
of California.
THE DISPATCH
IkCIXJLSR.
r-jH
ij
out from under the darkening brows that
he had lost all the ground he had regained
completely. '
"Von are not an artist. You are some
thing else. If yon had come here on our
land to paint yon would have come pre
pared."
"May I paint yon? Come!"
He sprang to the dingy, sooty fireplace1,
and caught up a piece of charcoal from the
de4Q embers. The case was desperate. Two
thumb tacks from his vest pocket and the
map on the table was on the wall reversed:
and the work begun before she could
remonstrate or even turn away. The lines,
the strong and magnificent splendor of hair,
the full, mobile mouth, all in a dozen dex
terous strokes, and the girl stood still.
Curiosity, if nothing better, held her now.
She was at least part woman.
Strong and stony, rugged as the sublime
and savage upheaved isles of land that she
took her name from, changeful as the tide
of the ocean she loved, she was all submis
sion now.
"Mr. John Gray, let me tell yon some
thing." She drew np her right hand and
without knowing it began to chafeand nurse
the fingers that the thistle had torn, lifting
the wounds now and then to her full, rich,
red lips: "Let me tell you about a man
that came up here to cut wood for us while
father was out at the islands; and then you
will understand."
- HUSTEB'3 YACHT.
"I will listen, Miss Farla, as long as yon
will tell."
"Well, a man. came here, like y on, I mean
a stranger like you. He wanted to cut cord
wood lor father, to sell in Ashland, yon
know. "Well, as father had to go on the
islands and could not come home at thai
season, because the ocean is stormy, he let
him stav. He went over yonder, the other
side of this arroya and above the steep crag
that hangs over the Straits of Garquinas,
and there built a cabin. And what do yoa
think?"
"I don't know, Farla, what to think." "
"Why, he had lawyers and Iot3 of rascals
behind him, and they filled that's what
they call it I don't know what it is, buf
he filed! filed on the land! Jnmped it!" w
"Well, I do hope he has not got it." '
"He's got jnst about six feet of it; hit
grave is down there on the crag. The cabin
is empty."
The girl had subdued the pain in her
hand; but she kept on biting at her fingers
and looking down at them as she said, or,
rather hissed between her beantiful teeth,
and as if talking to herself now, "They
found him found him, a few days after
father got back home from the islands, lying
in the cabin dead. His back was broken,
and his neck was twisted nearly off."
The dark brows canopied her face. Her
full lips lost their fervor and retreated to
her teeth, thin and bloodless; and she caught
again at the thistle head and tore her hand
once more without knowing or caring.
The man was almost frightened. Ha
feared this girl, and was glad she suddenly
turned away anu disappeared in tne dense
redwood, biting again-at the bleeding fingers
as she passed. v
CHAPTER VI.
LIFE AT DIABLO.
The next day there was the clang and.
clatter of hoofs on the sfcny path before the
cabin door, and, looking up from his dia
grams and plans at the rickety board table,
the man saw a strong and splendid white
horse dashing post He had only time to
catch a glimpse of the rider as the dense
redwoods closed in. Bnt such a rider! and
such a breakneck ride!
The huge white horse was a stallion of the
Norman stock; ponderous and powerful as
an engine; and yet very snre-footed, else
how could he have made paving stones oi
these savage steeps and stmck fire from
them as he passed? And reckless, too, he
seemed as his rider. The rider was Farla.
A few days later and she came again to
the cabin. This time not alone.
"Sanello mea, and Mr. Swain," said Farla.
The artist had taken a hint fromFarla'a
first visit and procured him certain material
from San Francisco. He was now at work
on a pictnre. The knowledge that there
was a man in the neighborhood, his nearest
neighbor indeed, capable of going around to
the cabins of people and quietly breaking
their backs had possibly stimulated the
artist to an effort in the way of his profes
sion. At all events, the visitors found him
busyat work; and it was plain that Farla
was immensely pleased.
"It's Sanello's beau," said Farla in a con-
firlpntfl w!iitw oa ein tnnt lioi ntfv
head nearer that of the artist, with pretense
of examining more critically some lines of
the redwood trees on the canvas.
"Ah," and the man examined the slim,
handsome and richly-clad young man at the
Blue ui oaneJiu. . j ,.
It did not take long. There are at least a
1.000 of such in almost any community of '
10,000 peple on the face of this earth. He J
carried a cane. He smoked cigarettes. Uod.si
Almighty made such men. why. we do.
not know. Perhaps to count when thVi
cholera comes around.
However, this special young man before '
us was, it nobodv himself, at least the son
of somebody. The possible, probable heir,'
oi millions, place, social power. Who snail
blame the prond and fond mother for her
toleration of this tame and inane bit of hu
manity, who had looked upon her beantiful
child while whippincr the mountain streams
lor trout, and, after his fashion, loved her?
Ah me! was not dreamful, silent, romantio
Sanello fit to be the wife of the grandest man
in the land? "Who shall blame the mother
for setting her hopes so high?
If it took bnt a elance to dispose of Mr.
Swain, the indolent and dainty "fisher dft
trout and fair women, it took the enterprise!
oi bis wnoie soul to Denold, aosoro, compre-s
hend at all the rich, restful beanty of thai
n
. 'Aj. ..- ...I
j i