'LOYa good servant or NONE AT ALL, M'LISS ADVISES From Mrs. Maw Halloek-Ovflpnp.walf. Pm- EC- V r-.-..----. smAli-Mi Tn,.,.i-1. .. t; , y- . i t- i vw ' ujl wiei. JLscufision jxegaraing jp rooiem WEOTtfGr LBDaEJR-PHILABEBPHIA, TUESDAY, MAY 16, 1916 T 1- t' ' 1"" m.,,,,,1 ,..,. n. , . i ,. i ,.f. . IT, . SEEN IN THE SHOPS W of Keeping" Domestics th servant who tipori .fWthnr ttah in the performance or her duties? Bold tho attention of those who soiVa this problem of how to nrc- $t vanlshlnif race, servants, train Ins amns on the mistresses who emnlov tftoMftT Are not these the ones Who nrl- need the education? WfWfti discussion of this Vital question 0n gHWMtday I Unequivocally took tho part , fRMM -servant, tt seemed to mo that n . memoer or one of tho two great hmm of! women whose work has not kwt standardized; who are not as a Ims, remember; I am not discussing In drvidunls fully compensated for their Mors. Tho other class Is wives. Today, however, I am concerned only Wtth servants. In what other trade, pro- fwwlun or business Is there no standard wses, no limitation of hours, no sped hstWn of labors? Compared to a Jack of H trades tho servant Is a versatile ewture Indeed. Truo, Bho may be maa tor tr mistress of nono of her accomplish BMnts, but can she be blamed for this? Mastery of an accomplishment means l Petoltzation, and specialization takes ttaM. In view of the multifarious duties vt ttw average maid of all work, what zOnHi has she to concentrate on one Job Mrtt perfect herself In that? "!VM majority of our servants are for Stirn born. To them America is the land f great opportunity, ot great tndepehd ne. But alast they are not hero long before they discover their mistake. Do mestic service. In this great land of tho fre Is apt to stand for a domestic bond Kin undreamed of In their rosy visions iof their new country. tye hire them at $3 or $4 a week. Often they work 14 hours a day and longer, performing tasks of an Inconceivable Yrltyt When tho day's work Is done hK retire to their tiny "third door back." . Thsy'cannot afford to pay for other quar ters, where they may receive their friends ,ad possess their souls in peace. True, they get their lodging and food In addi tion to their weekly pittance, but more nd more tho world Is beginning to realize tht the employo as well as tho employer is entitled to a profit to something over and above the amount required for bare sustenance and clothing. But, you will argue, these untrained ftpretgners are not worth more. Very well, then, set them a standard. Make them worth more. in my opinion. It housekeepers de manded a certain high competency in tho -women they employ In their kitchens, servants would of a necessity rise to meet this standard. If their employment depended on their efllclency they would have to become efficient. Make house keeping sufficiently attractive to them so that they will train to meet this hew de mand. Give them decent hours and de tent pay. Realize their need for 6om panlonsh)p of their kind and supply, them a place to have It, You may not be able to nfford them n separate living rooin, ni could tho woman whom I quoted on Sat urday, but at least you may cease to be hostile when they entertain In the kitchen. And If you can't offord to pay an effi cient servant, do without one altogether. Don't tolerate a slattern. For It's nn axiom well known to every housew'fo that n poor servant Is far worse thnn nono at all. Tho following lotter from Mis. Kate Hallock-Oreenewalt, whoso views are al ways Interesting, provoked this pcroin tlon. If any of my readers would like to contribute to tho discussion I shall bo glad to publish their communications. "Dear M't Is"? Since you ask tho opin ions of your judein on the servant girl question, permit mo to say that I for one can undei stand porfoctly why recent In vestigation credits a certain unmention able profession, a profession which, by tho gallantry of men, Is the ono profession termed strictly feminine and In Its fcml nlnencsi only of course tho oldest In tho world I can understand perfectly, I say, how this profession Becms to bo mainly recruited, according to tho testimony of n recent Investigator, from tho servant girl class. "It Is not becnuso tho servant girl is not loved at home nor by her mistress when she Is worth while, oh not Nor Is It be cause to open windows and bring In milk bottles Is more menial or disagreeable, let uo say, than the tasks belonging to n doctor's profession. It Is because these girls aro tho laziest under tho sun and would gladly take to anything which pre cludes labor. "They fasten themselves on to other poopta's homes like parasites in general only because food and shelter are there and to do a little subtle ciuelty on their own account. "From one look or two, not more, I know tho class which malntnlns Intelli gence offices, too. They arc not lit to speak in criticism of any mistress who, by the way. hires help kept moving from one Job to nnother suiprlslngly often with tho apparent knowledge of this go-between. Specialists In dishwashing! specialists for tho duties of thousands of households of two or three! Ye gods and little fishes! "When tho mistresses do go Into tho kitchen they nio surprised at the utter simplicity, liealthfulness and lack of worry connected with tho Job. No, when tho servant girl has too much to say behold the ass riding the man's back. "Very truly yours, "MARY HAM.OCK-GnEENBWAL.T, "1424 Master street." M'LISS. I - sfflft f, ,( v -A V7" s)if 1 ' l 4 iKkMUfir " fc K LMWlVl P . A jHObV WEw Tfll V - -Zz -v zz7 y BlBr" ; (I MBHi9Bm ) x--n I in i I s aj M Letters to the Editor of the Woman's Page Attn all communications to J1'l.l, enrr of thr Kicnlne Ledgrr. aldo of the pnpr only. U'rlta on one Dear M'IJi I have Quite a lame box of my kaircomblnxs. Is tt of any value and where could I dlapose f It. a. H. It I have consulted many halrdreiiers and hair a-ooda dtalera. and one and all they tell me that the only value your combtnga nre likely to be to you U to have, them made Into a switch or transformation for jourself. Aa far as I can ascertain, they hae no market alue. nai- M'TJas Will you tilease tell me what to cm to take the brownnesa off at the tip of my nui kid 8. hfwiT The leather underneath the has cone throuch. I. There are about three ways In which sou can fcMe that brown spot, and tho efficacy and per manency of the methods depends on the amount 5, ot money you are wllllnc to spend. First of all, l ' vaai ran whiten tt with the usual shoe whttenlnsr This Is Inexpensive, but It doesn't last. Secondly, you can havtt the place patched, a ahoe dealer tells, me. for SS cents. Finally. If you want to spend 91 or H25- you can have smart new tips put on the shoes. Unless your shoes still have a lone life before them and are of a cood value I should not advise the tast-nanrcd method. Dear M'l.les Could you please tell me what to use to heal up cuts on llngera and also to prevent pieces of skin from growing Just a little below the cuticle? Could ou also pleare tell me what to use to remote pimples from my chin forcer? S I. A doctor tells me that If the cut Is an unin fected one. pure alcohol the l5 per cent kind Is the bvst antiseptic to apply If the cut Is more than a surface scratch, It should be bound up with nntlseptlc nauzc to prevent Infection Cuticle around the nnlls should neer be cut. That only makes tt crow the faster The best treatment for obstinate cuticle Is pressure After washing the hands. alwas press back the tlesh. That Is tho only recipe I can gte ou To ask for something that will cure nlmnles forever Is equivalent to asking for something that will muke you healthy forever. Pimples Indicate Impoverished blood or nn unhealthy skin condition Go to a doctor and get a tonic, Then bathe dally and eat plenty of fresh fruit and green vegetables Do not eat meat more than once a day and avoid too many sweetmeats. COMPLETE SURF COSTUME WITH the bathing senson close ut band one's thoughts are of tho bathing outfit. The suit featured shows an attractive model moderately priced at $5. It Is of silk poplin trimmed with the same mntciinl In a contrasting color which forms the snllor collar, the piping of tho sleeveless effect and bands on the skirt as well as the covering of tho buttons. Inverted plaits reaching from tho shoulder to the hem give extra fulness to tho skirt, vvnlle a belt In long-vvalsted effect gives a slender nppearance. The suit comes In navy ami black, ttlmmcd In white, canary and self colors. Roman striped self material Is used for the rubber tam-o'-shanter bathing cap. It may bo had In red, green, copen and black. Tho striped rubber Is used for the band, pom-pom and tasselu. Price 75 cents The bathing sandals, which feature buckled straps over the insteps, come in both sateen and satin, priced at 49c. and $1.50, t espectlvely. They may be had In arIous colors The striped silk stockings tome In a variety of two-toned effects at $1.50. Tho name of tho shop wltero .these articles may be purchased will be supplied by tho Editor of the Woman's I'nge. Uve.vino Ledcieu, COS Chestnut street. Tho request must be accompanied bj a stamped, self-addressed envelope, and must mention the date on which the article appeared. Claymont. Delaware: awered by mall. Your nuery will be an- MARION HARLAND'S CORNER Dry Cleaning Corduroy ' T SHOULD like to know how to clean a Xwhlte corduroy coat without using soap and water. Would gasoline clean tt without polling it? How can I take shoe blacking Ca raincoat? St. S." You may dry clean the coa't yourself If ' you like. Lay the garment out smooth and taut upon a table covered with white cloth. Add a teaspoon of fine, perfectly dry salt to two cups of powdered starch, and with a - soft, clean complexion brush go all over the srduroy, not missing a thread. Blow- off tie loose powder when you have treated very part, and work In a fresh supply, XiMtve this on, covering the coat to keep out U, iust Ttnd do not uncover for two days, Taefl blow pff the powder and brush the ot free, of every sign of It, Or you may Mbctitute boraclc talcum for the Baited buck. Sift this thickly over the corduroy )isl'"raatage" It with the powder well and afeMy for ten minutes, renewing the talcum ,K is worked In, Blow off the loose povv ejr'jind work In another supply. Put Into Jto with close cover and do not open for three days. Then brush off the talcum and sljako wcIL To get the shoe blacking off the raincoat, apply benzine freely with a sponge ; H It dry and renew the application, Sponge the blur left by the removal of the tvalnt with pure grain alcohol it will not shrink it. but several dips and sousings will be required to cleanse It thoroughly. Mil there la always the annoyance of get tts rid of the odor afterward. Do not let tftiftelal light be brotvaht into the room TW1 you are using gasoline. It Is Indam-wtfele. Why Oil Overflows "In answer to Sirs. A. It. M., let me" say that the oil on the outside of a lamp, when not in use, is due to a principle in physics. It is caused by capillary attraction. The oil follows up the wick through the tube and, of course, settles on the outside of the lamp. It will do this in most cases whether the damp Is filled or not, especially If the lamp Is not In constant use I H " Our esteemed and versatile member en riches us again with a Berles of papers upon divers subjects which will appear In due time and order. Her signature Is guarantee of the value of each and Is hailed Joyfuly by editor and readers. Stories of Long Ago "It may be that one of thoae women whose hearts crave pdems of the long ngo may have read one or two stories I read almost fifty years ago. I was too young to understand them fully, but for years I have tried In every way to find them In book stores. I have spent hours looking over old books, and hae haunted libraries, but with little success. The title of one Is 'Helen and Arthur" or 'SIlss Thusa's Spin ning Wheel,' by Caroline Lee Hentz. The other Is 'RoBella Langdon,' a story of our plopeer days. The author I do not know. If any one could put me in the way of get ting the two or even one of these books, I should be eternally grateful, or If I may Just get the loan of one or both (which Is asking a great deal) I will call and take good care of them, returning them In a Bhort time. MAHY F, W." A piteous appeal which may, we trust, prove as effectual as the call for a yet older volume than those named by this corre- New Colonial Bedsteads J J in Old Ivory and Fawn Gray ,Wi The pretties summer rooms will be made prettier, cooler looking and every way more attractive by these stylish bedsteads. The quaint designs and dainty enameling harmonize effectively with nil decorative schemes. We can supply them promptly now, ugherty's Faultless Bedding rattresse$. Box Springs, Brass Beds, 1032 CHESTNUT STREET spondent I refer to "Charlotte Temple," asked for some months ago. Three copies of the century-old novel were secured Books are not really Indestructible, but one is amazed at finding them Intact after many years of hard usage, followed by neglect and forgetfulness, They Issue at call from dusty ana moldy corners to glad den the hearts of those whose hearts crave them. Words of a Lullaby "Will you ask that somebody send mo the words of a lullaby which begins: See the wves come rolling- In. On they come, on they come! Fther tolllnr amid the din, llut baby sleeps at home "Also an old hymn beglnlng: 'Down by old Jordan's rolling stream, the Baptist led the Holy Lamb ' And nnother: 'Only a poor old wanderer, with no place to call my own' (part of chorus). I will write to a shut-In If you will send mo an address of one. I Inclose a stamped envelope for reply RUTH D." The request for poems Is passed along the line. You shall hear with what re sult. Your kindly offers of service nnd patterns are gratefully registered. Months to Be Married In "Do you know the different sayings for the different months to be married In? "J. T." Is this what you mean? There Is a rhyme and jingle for each month: Marry when the year Is new. Always loving' kind and true. When February birds do mate. You may wed. nor dread your fate. If jou marry when March winds blow, Joy and sorrow both ou'll know. Marry In April when you can, Joy for maiden and for man. --n Marry In the month ot May. You will aurely me the day. Marry when June rose-t blow. Over land and sea you'll co. Those who In July do wed Must labor always for their bread. All who wed In August be Many a chance are sure to see. Maro In September nhine, Your living- will be rich and fine. If In October you do marry. Love will come, but riches tarn'. It you wed in bleak November Only Joy will come, remember. When December's snows fall fast. If jou marry, love will last. Brown Bread "Could you or any one In the Corner tell me If there aro evening classes at which one may learn sewing or cooking' I hear that some of the high schools have such classes, but are closed now, and will not open until fall. Here !b a good recipe for brown bread, should you caro to print It: One quart of buttermilk, three pounds of graham flour, half pound of raisins, one cup of molasses, half cup sugar, one tea spoon of salt, two tablespoons of lard, level teaspoon of soda to each cup of buttermilk. Mix flour, sugar and salt. Make a hole In tho center and put part of molasses and raisins In. Add gradually tho buttermilk, mixing tho soda with just a llttlo of It first, then fill the cup Mix thoroughly, and if too stiff use a little sour milk or cream. Form Into loaves and bake about an hour. Do not knead! I. M." Cooking and sewing classes are conducted by the Young Woman's Christian Associa tion of your city. Application at the hcad quartors of that admirable organization will bring you the desired Information with regard to both. Your recipe Is new to ua and welcome. It Is especially acceptable in view of the awakening Interest In butter milk prevailing throughout the country. Veil thp Bright Hat! A millinery novelty and, Incidentally, n hint for tho girl whoso brilliant coral or cerise hat Is too "loud" for her taste Is tho new veiled hat. One seen recently was fashioned of coral straw in the most vio lent shade Imaginable. A veiling of navy Georgette entirely covered tho hat, leaving no part of the violence at large, all of it being successfully restrained with the smart navy cover. A wing or two and shoe-shine ribbon completed tho trimming scheme. Perfect Mot It Protection QUAKER MOTH PROOF C M B 5 T WARM weather la comlne You will lay away your winter suits and your fura foon Protect these valuable garments nealnst moths by means of the QIMKCK MOTIt PKOOF CHEST netter than tar ibks or cedar chests. Interlined with a arred paper that moths and vermin nnnnt rtand They never bo near u QUAKER CHEST One dollar buys this Piirfec-t clothes protection Get one nowl Sold by all Department Stores inti ( uie ucai urui; mores Made Especially For Summer Use to give that appetizing final touch to the dining table so highly appreciated in hot weather. ' 13 pc Madeira Sets, from $3.50. 25 pc. Madeira Sets, from $6.85, Scarfs-36, 45 and 54 inches long from $2.50, Tray size oval and oolong irom 30c. 24-lneh Round Madeira Centres $1.00 eqch Lace-edge 14-piece Sets (one piece oval) special, $2.50 set. Lace-trjmmed Scarfs 36, 45 and 54 inches long from $10o! Hemstitched Linen Scarfs and Squares in various muclmvanted sizes, from 60c. r IMPORTANT NEWS In this Department, we still have a good assortment of tlje best Dress Linens In white and colors. Jn view of their grow ipg scarcity, ye suggest immediate, purchase. "T tooS Chestnut Street FASHION'S FANGIES TET the maecu'..newor.dand that pari of to.ee .he,. SJ'Sp JU the feminine ,whleh can't afford them scoff as It will regarding tho fAshlon or wealng furs these gentle spring days, the temperature of which presages summer's fierce heat, but Just the same the woman vvhose pocketbook allows It, buys, and those who scoffed remain to pray before the en hancement of her beauty I On Sunday morning I sat In mttenhouse Smare, at that time at which more than nhy other Philadelphia Is at her best, it was after church. Such beautiful women, such modish attires I Dut the loveliest women were those who wore tne turs. it may hae been a coincidence, and perhaps they are Just as lovely In their nighties or their bathing suits! but somehow or other 1 got the Impression that those soft red brown furs, or those downy white ones or the alluring gray ones reminiscent of a new-born kitten, are responsible for a lot of the pulchritude that Is abroad In the land these vernal days. Dear Madam Some time bko on the 'Woman's rase of thb Rirmmi I.rhorn there was a description of n bathing hnt with rolnts That Is, 1 think It was made on a square pattern. Could sou tell mo how to make this at home? SEASHORE. Yes It's Just as easy as can be Oct some good strong buckram and cut It Into a 20-Inch square. Then mcasuro your head slzo with a tape measure and cut a centre In tt. It Is best to havo It small at first, and cut It out as comfort demands. When It Is the proper head size, nnd If you think 20 Inches Is not too largo and floppy, wire the edges. Cover tho brim with a gay cretonne, an awning striped material, or a rubberized material, If you are going to wear It Into tho surf. Shir n full looso crown to It. If, however, you profer a stiff crown, buy a buckram ono at a millinery Biipply shop and cover It; then attach It to tho square brim and hldo tho lino of Junction With a ribbon band, Dear Madam Are Panama hats to be worn thin summer? I havo a very flno one. but It la rather small. I want to have It blocked In some smart shape It they are to be worn, otherwise 1 would rather have It put away for a lear or more. I would like to know, too. It It Isn't too much trouble, soma smart way to trim It. ANXIOUS. You couldn't havo anything smarter for sports and ticaehoro wear than your Pan ama. Decldrjlon a shapo that Is becoming to you nnd then tako ur hat to some re liable blocker's and order him to block It that shapo for you. He will bo able to tell you whether tho, shape you have chosen Is or Is not ndaptoblo to your Panama. If you llko an all-white hat, I should us a white grosgraln band around tho crown, with a cabochon of tho ribbon at the front. There nre many ribbon fancies you can copy a tailored bow with a cockade at tho turned-up side. If you nro not too tall for high trimming. A Itoman band or vari colored silk clastic Is smart, too. Dear Madam Whnt kind of n. topcoat would jou ausfcst for me? I am tall, slen der and havo Uuht brown hair nnd eyes. I want something that will do for motorlnc. street wear, and oven to throw over a light (town In tho summer. I wonder If jou could suggest anything that will sorvo nil three purposes? Your ndvlco will be appreciated DORIS. Get a smart cafo au lalt or buff-colored coat. This shade would bo becoming to one of your typo If you are not sallow. I saw a stunning model recently. Tho coat Itself was fashioned of llghtvyclght duvetyn Tho collar was a trlple-capo affair, slightly rip Pled to give fulness. Tho front pf the coat was double breasted, with four large tor- the front nnd a broad belt formed the rest of the trimming. ji.t, A check In brown tones is '8' modish, and there Is no end to the wear of check materials. You can, of course, wear navy and also dark green or brown But these nre sombre shades for this npple-blossomy lime of tho year. I have, however, seen some very fascinating summer coats devel- neaders who Wf.h help wlllt triple tohlems will nddrMs '" I? iV Wdg( nlyi dre Fashion Htpert. tare of the Woman ' 'V,''"-, ,." Ktcnlng I-edrer. Write on one side ef Jhs 'HTi Mill I t.Pon ,n R "rtVy MrM J . afford Georgette or an?thin .T limii My friend blonde am? rather fiL?tl. thought of making her mi, V,""- I fcti chine, w th a frill at thi VL..U erM J? think this I. a good V., '.-rS know .. i. -I"1:. J!'"ir .... .. Dwv, nm pvssioie. 6w,u: Thtk rrtmA Am i.t-j. ,. - Hl come your friend f TZ" seCT',", fc china blue. Flowered eh Iff!?. itiur dainty, but both the?, mTr ffil & ' as expensive ns tleorgette. 0.;'-'' batiste are much In ua .;.i -I??.1.' nd should have the lines of the U"J' J straight as possible, from .i.? i.bJ?u U Wr. for this hrtw i"toTl" &J?'' 'A plump ngure. a flat frill cleverlv rn..S. . i with Impunity by Z- 1 lated can bo worn corpulent ones, LUIGI RIENZI 1714 Walnut Street Importer and Ladies Tailor Surprise in the Price The Ricnzi Quality Is Fixed, It Is Superb, It Can't Be ' Reduced, but the Price for These Splendid Suits and Dresses That Is a Genuine Surprise, Often Half the Price Asked by Other Shops for Garments Not So Good You Must See to Believe The Builders Must Have Room, Now'b Your Chance Dress Hats Sport Hats Outing Hats Furn Cared For and fnturad TETLEY'S TEAS INDIA AND CEYLON No Gifts No Premiums General Excellence Satisfies Itest remits obtained If direct Vs for brewlnr are carefully followed Gold LabeL $1.00 lb. Buff Label. 00c lb. Green Label. 70c lb. Red LaboL 60c lb. An Dreads Also Packed la Half and Quarter Pound Tins Furs Remodeled and Stored Storage Vaults on Premises BONWIT TELLER 6XO. CHESTNUT AT "13 "STREET ANNOUNCEMENT FOR WEDNESDAY omen's anb Mis&t6' QMleur gmtta COMPRISING 183 PIECES AT VERY SPECIAL PRICES " " Heretofore Sold from 45.00 to 85.00 WILL BE CLOSED OUT AT $15, $20, $28 and $32.50 s. ,v n. . .. . Heretofore NOW (14) Black. Navy and Check Serges 29.50 15.00 (12) Serges and Gabardines 35.00 15.00 (10) Velour and Shepherd Checks. 39.50 15.00 ( 8) Gabardines and English Serges 45.00 15.00 (15) Serge and Poiret Twills 45.00 20.00 ( 8) Check and Serge Suits 49.50 20.00 (11) Dressy Serge and Gabardines. 55.00 20.00 (19) Velour Check and Gabardines 59.50 20.00 ,. Heretofore NOW (14) Taffeta Suits 65.00 28.00 ( 7) Dressy Serge Suits 65.00 28.00 (18) Serge and Gabardines 69.50 28,00 ( 1 6) Poiret Twills 75.00 28.00 ( 9) Gabardine Serge and Check.. 69.50 32.50 ( 5) Imposed Taffeta 75.00 32.50 (14) Gabardine and Imp, Serges.. . 79.50 32.50 ( 3) Imported Velours . 85.00 32.50 Including White Serge, Gabardine and Various Models in White Sport Suits. CONTINUATION WEDNESDAY May Clearance Ctyomens Gt'cZQssgs9 Frocks & Gowns , About 40 Per Cent. Less Than Regular Serge, taffeta and ' satin, the season's favorite models. Georgette crepes, taffeta, charmcuse and white nets. 19.50 25.00 i. Summer Dresses in nets, cotton voile and linens. 14.50 to 29.50 Chiffon and serge combina tions," Georgette crepe, pin stripes, crepe de chine.' 29.50 ''f'j. TF IMPORTANT SALE OF MILLINERY, - ' i ' ' FOR WEDNESDAY ' ; ( Four Hundred Dress Hats' 10.00, Usual prices 80,00 to 25,00 Most charming and distinctive hats, many designed with the exquisite cojonngs, for bndesmaids in leghorns with velvet crowps, transparent , 1 U! -JV "J1" "n