Evening public ledger. (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, May 13, 1916, Night Extra, Page 6, Image 6

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M'LlSS DISCUSSES A RACE
THAT IS VANISHING SERVANTS
JExtinction Due to Futile Search for That Life,
Liberty and Pursuit of Happiness to Which .
v All Are Said to Be Entitled
THEY -were talking about contemptible things.
"In hiy opinion," said tho woman With tho disgruntled countcnanco, "tho
most contemptible thing ono woman can do to another la to take her servant
away from tierr
"Is yours going to leaver' asked her companion, scenting a personal griev
ance behind this gcnerallzAtlon.
"Next week," the first woman replied, "but the humiliating part of It nil
la that she Is going to work" right Under my nose for a woman who has Just
moved In two doors above. It's bad enough lo have her go after she's Just
beconle used to my ways and all that, but It's positively galling to think that
that woman didn't oven have ftj offer her more money to got her away, As
good as I was to Maryl"
Why Is she leaving thenf"
"Oh, because this? newcomer has some kind of radical Ideas about the equality
of people. She's had her basement fixed up as a silting room, where tho help
can have company at night, and Instead of Just giving Mary Thursday after
noons oft and everj' other Sunday afternoon bIio's going to give her ono entlro
day and every other Sunday afternoon Just tho same. It's peoplo llko that
who are responsible, for tho Bervant question. How can wo expect to keep
servants when they come along and put such notions Into their heads?"
THo other woman ngieed with her that housekeepers wero a much-abused
sot, and that tho only way to treat sorvants wan to "keep them In their placo"
Wherever that may bo.
Back In 1861 a war was fought because of a slavery which, In my opinion,
was less obnoxious than that which exists In many households today. And many
a woman who considers hprsolf a tondcr-heartod specimen of tho sex could glvo
tho old-time slave-drivers Illuminating pointers In tho flno art of bolng cruel.
The head of a largo employment agency told mo tho ether day that If
women, particularly those who employ only ono servant and expect lier for
a small sum to do everything from tho washing to tho gardening, did not alter
their ways that typo of Bervant known as tho mald-of-all-work would becomo
entirely extinct.
"It used to bo," sho Bald, "that It was very easy to got a girl who could
cook tho meals, mako tho beds, sweep, dust, wash, iron, scrub the -porch, tend
to tho furnace;, cut tho lawn and mind tho baby for $3 a week. Somotlmea In
thoso days foreign girls wero willing to take a place that paid only $8 a month.
But tlme3 havo changed, thank God, for tho girls! Thoso who nro still willing
to enter domestlo service specialize. They becomo expert laundresses, good
cooks, housemaids or waitresses. Tho rost go to the mills and factories, whoro
they have doflnlto hours and aro not looked down on. Somo women treat their
help llko dogs and then expect thorn to stay with them," she concluded.
Many women who all their llvds havo been used to having their work done
for thorn by servants aro today forced either into boarding houses or Into thoso
more unfamiliar precincts, their own kitchens. They bemoan their fato with
waiting and gnashing of teeth and mako miserablo tho lives of their husbands
and family wlthtales of household drudgery, which they regard as' play work
when somo ono elso docs it. They can afford a servant. Occasionally tlicy
can get ono. But they cannot keep her.
Domestic service needs not only to be' standardized; It needs to bo human
'bed. Tho employer who treats her sorvant as a human being engaged In an
honorable service, from which she is oxpected to derivo profits commensurnto
with tho labor entailed. Is not tho woman who continually haunts tho labor
agencies. It's tho ono who considers tho sitting room and full-day-oft idea as
arrant folly who is continually engaged in solving or trying to that knottiest
of all problems, tho servant problem.
If any of my readers havo Ideas on the easiest and quickest way of solving
this problem, I shall bo glad to publish them. M'LISS.
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SEEN IN (THfi SHOPS
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Letters to the Editor of the Woman's Page
Address nil communications to M'l.lss. enre of tlm Kvenlnc I-cilcrr.
utile of tho pnptr only.
Write on one
Dear M'Ltss Would It be rosslhlo for ynu
through your column to help m; with this: To
name 40 Immortals who M for their coun
try, and oblUto M1S3 SI. O. a.
I do not quite understand your query. Are
rou not contuslnc tho Forty French Immortals
thoso men of Titers whom France linnora by
maklnc them members of the French Acail
amy with Innumerable hero" who have bIvcii
tip their Uvea for their cn ry? Tho Forty
Immortals are elec ted to v.u French Academy
for life. It wai founded In IMS by Cardinal
Richelieu. Election to It 1 the highest ambi
tion of a literary Frenchman. It you want a
nit of theoe. I wtl Klaillv send It to you upon
receipt of a stamped self-addressed envelope.
Men have always died for their country, and
doubtless always will. A. few that come to
mind at present are! Leonldos. the OreeK;
Nathan Hale. American: Arnold von Wlnkel
rled. Swiss: Lord Nelson, Ensland: Cyrus.
Persia: Patrick Henry Foarse and Itobert
(
Kmmot, Ireland; Anthony Wilding. Kngland;
Hupert Hrooke. Unsland, nnd William Wallace,
Scotland.
American general who died In liattlc are:
John Fulton Reynolds, Nathaniel Lyon, Will
iam Tibblti, Stonewall Jackson, Albert Sidney
Johnson, tfamuel Wurren.
Joan of Arc. I think, could, properly bo
called an Immortal Mho died for her country.
Doilhfleittt I hfLtn mtn,! n trrunt mnnv m-n
whose deeds and deaths wero more spectacular
man inoae i nave namea. remaps my rcauers
can contribute some.
Mrs. C. W. sends the followlnc Information,
which many of my readers will doubtless bo
glad to know:
Dear Sl'LIss If. the kitchen painted walls
are dingy and creasy this time of year clean
the paint with coal oil. Have ono rnir to nuf
tho oil on with and a dry ragr to polish with.
JIIIS. C. V.
SZtSrTrSl tSV- tb.V -' V0 T i'-f,'
jSS3 111 1 m m Jlllr
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ii . II i I
A $& vIBP'v " 3!
SMART SPORTS OUTFIT
STRIPES nro very much In ovltlenco In varj-Ing widths. Tho nbovo Illustration
shows a sports coat oliowlng tho medium width In very smart effect, strllclns yet
not too loud. Tho main features of the coat axe tho snllor collar, polntod cuffs,
patch pockets unci belt, which Is glvon preference this season over tho sash. Hand
soino pcnrl huttons form an effective finish. It comen In various colors. Tho price, $15.
Tho sports skirt Is a thrcc-plcco model mudo to order In white flannel for (12, and
In flno cotton goods cuch as linen, plquo or gabardine for $8. It Is trimmed with
unusually linmlnomo pearl buttons.
Fnlllo silk Is used for this now soft brimmed sports bat. It has an appllqued
bund of linen and hand-stltchcd brim with n facing of pananm. It may bo ordered In
any color for $13.00.
Tho name of tho shop where these articles may bo purchased will bo supplied
by tho Editor of tho Woman's rage, Evenino I. epoch, 808 Chestnut street. The
request must bo nccompaulcd by a stamped, self-addressed envelope, and must
mention the dato on which the artlclo appeared,
INEXPENSIVE SUGGESTIONS
FOR CITY FRONT YARDS
By JOHN BARTRAM
Marion Harland's Corner
For a Little Girl
(IT HAVE postcards from different
X places I visited last summer. Soma
have stamps on, no -writing, and somo
of the holiday cards aro pretty and in
teresting B0 In all. I also can give
pieces to make doll dresses to a llttlo
girl who can sew or quilt; a box of buttons
and thread and needles which a little gin
who Is learning to sew might like. God
bless our Comer! This Is my first but not
last contribution. H. II."
May the fountain of loving kindness
done for love's sako returning fill your
own heart with refreshment! The bless
ing you Invoke upon "our Corner" will
surely rest upon you. Tho articles listed
are Just what shut-Ins and Impecunious
mothers of children are Beeklng all the
time. What you have stored as "trump
ery" will be utlllred for good. We are
delighted to hear that you will be mindful
of ua In future. .
Offers Fifty Ilymn Books
T received the song I asked .for from
a person whose address you gave me.
I am thankful to you and her. I have
60 hymn books that I will gladly glvo
to any one who Is In need of them. I
shall never forget the Corner, T. IV
The, half hundred proofs of your kind
thought of us will probably be called
for by some mission church or Sunday
School. There are scores of these In
touch with our' Helping Hand Corner.
Hold the books until you hear from us.
We thank you heartily for entering us
in your "book of remembrance."
Sacred Music to Give
"I have considerable sacred muslo
(Itoman Catholic) which I would gladly
fflve to any one wishing It I noticed
In your Corner that a young violinist
wanted some muslo. I have some for him
if he has not had his want supplied. I
have found among my selections a piece
of music entitled 'Remember Me at
Evening Hour," published in 1820. Has
It any value? S. T. D."
Borne of the noblest sacred music ever
written might be classed as "Itoman
Catholic" It Is used in churches of every
name. We accept yours gratefully In bo.
half of our muslo lovers and hold your
address. The olmost-century old muslo
you speak of should have value In the
eyes of collectors of first editions. Tour
effery Is referred to them.
Many Appeal In Vain
T Bent a. box of thtngs to Mrs. P.,
some good clothes for herself and chil
dren, two suits, spring coat, silk, waist,
linen dresa and other things. I thought I
nad, given everything away, but a friend
snt me oyer some epler.djd articles, so I
bad Quite a. boxful, I told Mrs. F. tb
write to you saying she received the
things, also to Inclose & stamped en
velope. Bhs wrote me on receipt of the
box. I wish all who ask In the Corner
might get what they ask for; but to. many
they appeal in vain; the world has no time
for unsuccessful men and women, and
many think it la their own fault to be
poor and needy. Oh, I know soma day
there will be an accounting for the sins
of omUslon! If God blesses us with
plenty, and we are unkind and heedless
of other less fortunate, don't you think
He will ask for an accountlngt I dol
Xai why la It that people with a rare
love and charity for others In their hearts
htva sa UttU to do with. I have tried
many times to so-lva that problem.
"A0KE8 W"
A text full of solemn slgniftcar.ee that
ta a,t once, a warning and a, promise ro
om, to my mind, many times a day Jn
twdtag nd hearing of what we In our
gaseratiqji are doing and thinking- "Se
Ipt 48vdV 3o4 U (tot wockfelt Wlat
fuvr a, i iwtU, Ut iil fc alw
Jf i aawiit Uw. u mm w4
All rommanlrntlon addressed to Marten
Tlnrland Nlionld enrlote a stamped, self,
ndilresned envelope and n cllpplnc of the
nrtlrlft In nrlilrh rnn are Interested Per
sons wl.lilnt- to alii In the charitable
work or the II. II. ('. should write Marlon
Ilarland, In care nf thU paper, for ad
drrM of thoie they uould like to help,
and. havlnr received them, communicate
direct with those parties.
be put Into tho ground, we do not expect
a harvest of good. It Is not a problem,
but a fact as old as tlmo itbelf. Your
"report" la full of encouragement ntul
cheer. It doea Kood not like n. mellrl I
but as generous heart food strengthens
tho spirit for further effort
How to Make Paper Beads
"Here are directions for wall paper
beads, asked for irf tho Corner: Get a
paperhanger's sample book of wall paper,
as this furnishes an assortment of colors.
Cut the paper In 3x7 rectangularly Bhaped
pieces, pointed at one end. Spread the
wrong side of the paper with library
paste. Uegln on the straight three-edge
roll, tightly rolled ud on a knlttlm?
Nneedle. Slip oft needle and cover with a
light coat of shellac. Put aside to dry,
string on fish line, alternating ono paper
bead and two or three large colored glass
beads. I have seen effective looking por
tieres made In this way. Start all strings
with enough glass beads to go around the
portiere pole. First string start with a
dark paper bead and alternate with a
light one until you have the desired
length. The second string starts with a
light colored bead, etc. Tho end of ench
string la finished with three glass beads
tied to form the knot I hope I have
given the directions clearly. If not I
would be more than pleased to havo W.
II. C. address me by letter. I could ex
plain more fully. o, N. T."
Pork Cake
The request of a member for a recipe
for pork cake has brought Into our letter
box no less than a dozen replies from
housewives who know whereof they
speak, We gladly make room for a
couple of these. It belongs, of right, to
midwinter, being rich In fata and carbons
for the upbuilding of strength and animal
warmth 1
"One pound of fat pork, chopped fine.
Pour on it a pint of boiling water, one
cup of molasses, one cup of brown sugar,
five cups of flour, one teaspoon of soda,
fruit and spices to taste. H. O, C,"
A recipe that has the merit of brevity
and which Is yet sufficiently explicit for
the experienced housemother to follow
safely, Here is another:
"Pour one pint of boiling hot coffee over
one pound of finely chopped salt pork.
Stir until the pork Is dissolved. Add two
cups of brown sugar, one cup of molasses,
one pound of raisins, one pound of cur
rants, quarter pound of citron, one cup of
chopped nuts, two teaspoons of soda dts
solved In a little hot water, (wo teaspoons
of cinnamon, one teaspoon of baking
powder sifted with four big cups of flour.
Bake In a slow oven two hours. This
makes two loaf cakes. A- P- S,"
The coffee is a novel ingredient and an
agreeable. In, fact, there Is a tolerable,
meal for the day in the cake bound to
gether with "four big cups of flour." One
can fancy what delight It would brim: to
'a sleighing party It washed down -with hot
coffee.
JFI J FT 111 O 1 I 1 1 J
I FT R ZFT. B B B B
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Trust Thou Thy Love
Trust thou thy love: If she be proud, la
she. not sfeeetT
Trust thou thy love : If she be mute. Is
tshe not pure?
Lay thou thy soul full In her hands, low at
her feet ;
Fait sun and breath ; yet for thy peace
she, iUsl' endure.
John Ituskln.
tr un
Japanese iris; G, German flag; O, Oriental iris; R. rudbeckia or
golden Riow; li, campanula 'or bellllowcr; U, coreopsis or tickwort;
G, gallmrdia or blanket flower; X, aquolegia or columbine.
It Is full time to beautify the city front
yard. Most residents with tho small area
posslblo to devote to lloral culture In a
city front yard do not want to spend too
largo a sum on their display, and the
following suggestions are offered to
cover their limitations, and yet provide
attractive and colorful combinations at a
small outlay. The most expensive com
bination will not cost more than 5 for
all the plants bought. From the data
householders can adapt something to sblt
their tastes and purses.
A perennial bed Is very desirable. The
plants are hardy and need only a tri
fling covering of coarse manure, or even
leaves for winter protection. The one
l!ustrated will give a constant succession
of bloom, and cost very little. All of the
plants well rooted and ready to bloom this
season can be purchased for from 10 to
15 cents each.
The flags or Iris will glvo very early
bloom, and the foliage will b? good look
ing all season. The rudbeckia or golden
glow will bloom profusely from August to
frost. The campanula or bell llower will
be Btately In bloom through the summer
months. Coreopsis and galllardla are con
stant bloomers, well nigh to frost Colum
bine will afford early bloom, and the pret
tily shaped foliage will be attractive In
the foreground after bloom 1b over. Along
the edge pansles can be planted as a
border, If desired; but these must be
renewed each season. The distances and
the order from porch outward are IndN
cated to fit In with heights later attained.
Flags are next the porch. Early spring
bloom ean be ensured In this perennial
bed by planting bulbs, next fall along the
dotted lines half way between the rows.
Nearest the porch put hyacinths, ullps
or double narcissus. Working outward
can come double narcissus-, single daffo
dils and poets' narcissus- All these can
be purchased at 26 cents a dozen upwards.
They can be left in the ground all winter.
Thq Iris are planted one foot apart.
Campanula and rudbeckia one foot from
each edge, then two feet. Coreopsis and
galllardla one foot from edge, then IVj
feet apart. Columbine, one foot apart. The
hardy border can be scaled to smaller
areas, but the distances should be kept at
least one foot apart.
Bulbs should be planted from a foot to a
foot and a half apart.
The various combinations suggested .are
designed for locations receiving the light
from the east or the south. In case of
western or northern exposure rhododen-
will all flourish.
If an evergreen effect is desired, rho
dodendrons can form the foundation.
They should be planted three feet apart
Stocky plants, 18 to 80 inches high, with
several buds ready for 6hls season's
blooming, come at $0 cents to 75 cents.
ftetween them begonias can be. planted for
constant summr bloom. An an edging,
dwarf nasturtiums would fit In well with
a, (southern exposure.
If only annual bloom 1 desired, nett
ing could be more effetire than the
standard combination of cannan and scar
let sage. Put in plants, at this late date;
Cannas, tor a row next the porch, cost
$1.00 to $1,50 a dozen. The roots are
lifted and kept In dirt or sand over
winter. Scarlet sage costs 75 cents to
$1 a dozen. It must be repurchased each
year. ,
Plant cannas one foot and a half apart;
scarlet sage, half a foot apart Cannas
In some red shades should be specified In
ordering, to harmonize with the color of
the sage. Nasturtiums can also be used
as a border here.
A decidedly Interesting combination ef.
fectlve both summer and winter would be
the alternation of rhododendrons and
arbor vltae, at threa-foot Intervals. This
will afford spring blooming and winter
greenery. In front begonias, geraniums
or scarlet sage would supplement with
annual bloom from late spring till frost
Arbor vltae come at SO cents upward
apiece.
For an urn success Is sure with the re
liable geraniums with vlnca (periwinkle)
to trail over the sides, each costing from 10
cents to IS cents apiece, A mass of pe
tunias, which can be planted any time
now from seed, will be attractive and re
qulro little care once they are well under
way. No running vine is required to ao
company them, as they trail naturally,
A five-cent package of mixed varieties
wilt give a good effect If preferred, solid
colors, red or white, can be planted. If
the flowers are picked as they begin to
fade bloom will be constant till frost.
Success will be dependent on preparing
the ground properly. Dig it over thor
oughly and pulverise the soil. If It Is
stiff mix In half a ton of sand cost
about 90 cents or l to 10 by 15. feet of
space, To rlchen the soil, Incorporate
thoroughly to the same area nve pounds
of ground bone meal or ground sheep
manure, Stir the earth around the plants
at least once a week, keep all weeds out
and gtva the bed a thorough soaking
about once a week not a mere sprink
ling. '
GARDEN QUERES ANSWERED
Varieties Wanted
BLEANOn Snowball and erfurt are srood
kohlsabit New York giant, ot eplant. I
would recommend buying the plants o? eiull
?XtT JS?iavJ"IIni- . Two, or three of the
latter will be enouh for a family oT three or
Tomatoes From Seed
addrt?xaM
Annual for Borders
nr.MPV WMr -...,.. .. . ..-.
f QOfOsdneUa UUo lUgr-un): blue. tqrU-il,
A Gqo4 Blue
Electric blue that color beloved by
our grandmothers has returned to Its
own ajaln. Oae sees It on evening
gowns, blouses and afternoon frock, g,
"I
MANY COMMON ILLS DUB TO FAILURE '.
OF SECRETION OF THYROID GLAND
By WILLIAM BRADY, M. D,
PEIIHAP3 no than in America lias con
tributed so much of practical Value to
our knowledge of motabollsm the oxida
tion process dr combustion which con-,
stltutes life and growth as the dls
tlngulshed editor of the Now York Med
leal Journal, Dr. C. B. do M. Sttjous. Ills
grent work upon the Internal secretions
and the principles or meaicni nracuiw
nna of the classics of our time, ranking
with the textbook of Osier in tho practi
tioner's library.
A recent contribution of Doctor Sajoua
offers some suggestive Ideas upon tho sub
ject of defective development Ho points
out tho relation between tho thymus gland
function nnd tho conditions ot Idiocy and
dementia prnccox. If tho thymus secre
tion (ono of the Internal secretions, tho
thymus being a ductless gland) Is defi
cient, thero Is defective brain develop
ment or premature mental failure. The
gland was nbacnt In 28 Idlotlo children
examined post-mortem, though normal In
61 normal children1 who had died of va
rious diseases. Sajous believes the thy
mus secretion Is Inadequate In dementia
praecox, a form of Insanity of early llfo.
Nolablo evidences of thymus gland defi
ciency aro!
Deficient development of tho bones, with
ilnformltles mitrtreatlne rickets, due to de
fective nsslmllntlon of the calcium (lime)
of tho food, owing to tho lack of thymus
secretion. Under.Bized stature Delayed
mental development. A low relatlvo
lymphocyte count (determined by mak
ing a blood count)i
Long before tho brilliant discoveries of
Crlle relating to the prevention of shook
and exhaustion In surgery by protecting
the ductloss glands, Sajous taught that
tho thyroid gland took an nctlvo part In
protecting tho body hgalnst Intoxications.
Ilo now points out tho relation between
Insufficient thyroid .gland secretion and
melancholia and mania. Tho results of
InaulDclcnt thyroid secretion ore bo char
acteristic nnd so common, even among
peoplo who do not consider themselves
really unhealthy, tnnt we may mention
them hero!
First. Subnormal temperature, cold
extremities, sensitiveness to cold wenthor,
diminished or absent perspiration, ten
dency to obesity.
Second. Doughy, dry skin, often with
Dr. Brady tolll nnstoer oil slscd Ut
ters pertaining to Health, H.Vour
question la of central Interest, it will
be answered through these columns; If
not, it will be answered personally If
titamped, addresed envelope i enclosed.
Dr. Brady wilt not prescribe for indi
vidual cases or make diagnoses. Ad
dress br. William Brady, care of the
livening Ledger.
pads of fat on the collar bones or neck,
thick lips, puffy eyes, scniy skin, dry,
brittle, poorly growing hair, brlttlo nails,
poor teeth.
Third, Mental torpor, deep but unre
flashing sleep, loss of formci" nmbltlon tb
work or play, drowsiness daytimes.
Fourth. If a woman, scanty or ab
sent period lo function. Inability to nurse
a baby.
Be tho Individual a "dcfectlvo" or not,
the recognition of signs of deficiency of
Internal secretions points tho way toward
relief. - Treatment directed toward tho
correction of ductless gland deficiencies
Is accomplishing miracles every day.
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS
Hernia or Rupture nnd Surgery
Please tell mo what Is the best treat
ment for a caso of hernia or rupturo In
a man of 20.
Answer Surgical cure that Is tho
cheapest, safest nnd only euro.
Diet of Nursing Mother
"What articles ot food must a nursing
mother avoid?
Answer Nothing In particular. Sho
Bhould eat everything she ordinarily eats.
If It ngreos with mother It will bo good
for tho baby tho "old women" to Uio
c. n. w. At least that Is tho way dieti
tians tell us to do.
Iron Never Hurts the Teeth
Which kind of Iron is least Injurious to
tho teeth?
Answer Medicinal Iron cannot Injure
tho teeth. That Is Just a hold-ovor proju.
dlco from tho old times when the acid
tlncturo was usod,
FASHION'S FANCIES
Readers who wish help in the solu
tion of their dress problems should
address their queries to tho Fashion
Expert, caro of tho Evening Ledger
Woman's l'age.
A FRENCH woman whom I know, ono
of tho most modish and exquisitely
gowned women I havo ever seen, requires
two hours In which to dress. One-half of
this time Is given over to her hair and
hat 40 minutes for tho coiffure nnd 20
you will scarcely bellove It to tho nd
Justmont of her hat and voll. SulTIco It to
say when she Is finished her tolletto Is Ir
reproachable Now tho average woman hns not two
hours to spnro to tho Important function
of getting Into her clothes properly. In
deed, oven If sho had sho would regard It
as a profligate squandering of time, nnd
rightly so. But I quoto tho Incident of
the French woman to show the Importanco
that a wcll-colfTed and becomingly ar
ranged hair and a becomingly ndjustcd
lint Is to tho ensemble of tile woman who
would make tho most of herself.
And as for tho veil, though It Is ono of
tho most Indispensable sartorial adjuncts,
It had better bo forgotten altogether than
to bo "slapped on" with an Indiscreet re
gard for loose ends that flap out In tho
rear at unbecoming angles.
"Remember tho llttlo things and tho
big will take care of themselves," Is a
good motto to tuck Into tho sldo of your
mirror.
Dear Madam: Can you clve mo somo BUff
cestlons In buying two dresses that 1 am going
to wonr to tho office this summor7 1 want
something cool, becoming, slmnle. washable
and durable. It'a a largo order, but perhups
f'ou will bo good enough to advise me. My hair
s brown and my ees blue, I prefer dark
colors.
. DOWNTOWN.
Pongeo nnd shantung nro both cool. Borvlco
ablo and do not crush, a consideration worth
the nttcntlon of a untnitn who works In nn
office. If I were yon I should havo ono nf
my frocks of gun-mctnl or perhaps a little
ll-rhter shade of gray pongee or Hhantung. A
Ittisslan blouso pattern is stmplo and smart.
Put a touch of China blue that nenr rela
tive of Copen, which Is not sp harsh on the
collar cuffa and wenr sheer was white wash
able on top.
A dark blue cropo le chine, if of a good
auatlty, would make a serviceable second
ress. Have it mado sleeveless and buy or
mako several washable underblousen to bo
worn with it. Washable vollo and llnon nre
both less expensive than crepe do chine, but
they must bn so. ns It requires constant rrcss
lng to keep them looking trig.
A black hat fneed with China blue taffeta
ought to be becoming to ou. and could bo worn
with both of these frocks. ;
Dead Madnm In making a duster to be
worn on long motor trips what kind of ma
terial would you advise? AUTO.
Natural colorud linen, pongee, motor cloth or
Palm ileach cloth.
Dear Madam f a.m nnxlous to put somo
smocking on a blouse. Can you tell mo how
this stitch Is made? , n. M.
It would bo difficult to do so in print. In
tho art needlework departments of nil the largo
shops thero aro expert needlewomen who will
gladly teach you this ory easy stitch.
Dear Madam How much material must be
bought for two camisoles? I want to make
them of flesh-colored crepq do chine.
IIOMn.
THE CHEERFUL Cil
Whm peopk 3
L dcrvt mirjfj,
1 ArYspiy4ookilr.rJt
cjd .see,
Tha time, wK&n til bt.
I"cJYOU4 Ot.K i
I he rabble,
bowing dour
to me.
IWC!
UoA
TJX
A half a yardfl If you nre nn average. sized
Inches each.
person. Cut your material into two ploces, nine
ir
Dear Madam Can you ge mo some advice
about altering a linen skirt that has become too
tight for 'moY .My waist Is about three inches
larger thHti It was, and I need alout et?ht
Inches additional In the hips. K. M, F.
If thero Is not enough In tho seams to give
you the required fulness, ynu will have to
matrh tho material. If possible, and set your
skirt on a yoke. Yokes nre this year's salva
tion of last year's models.
MOTHER'S DAY BADGE
A WHITE CARNATION
Founder of Observance Op
posed to Change of Memor
ial Flower
Tomorrow Is Mother's Day.
As a calendar Institution it was started
by a Philadelphia woman nnd for that
reason will be celebrated with especial
zeal In this city.
To properly -observo the occasion, chil
dren living somewhere vise than at homo
should write a long-delayed letter to
mother nnd wear a white carnation In her
honor.
Churches, Sunday schools, civic? and pa
triotic organizations will comblno to honor
the mothers with appropriate services and
ceremonies. Mayor Smith has Issued a
proclamation urging? observance of the
fvent. At the Union Tnbernncle Sabbath
School an address appropriate to the day
will be delivered by Miss Katherlno E.
Puncheon, principal of the Philadelphia
High School for Girls. Thero will be
special music. Including solos by Miss
Marlon It. Haines and Alfred h. Mathlas.
It Is feared that there may be a dearth
of white carnations, and florists an
urging that somo other flower, preferably
the favorite flower of "mother," bo worn
if the supply of white carnations becomes
exhausted.
Miss Anna M. Jarvls. 2031 North 12th
street, founder of Mother's Day, Is opposed
to such a substitution. She has declared
that tha uso of colored carnations In
stantly transforms the white carnation
Into a badge of mourning, and that the
white carnation Is absolutely the only one
properly to reflect the spirit of the day
motherhood, eternally enduring, eternally
revived.
CARLISLE CELEBRATES
TENTH MAY FESTIVAL
Fringe or Frayed Edges
Natural silk fringe and pinking Is used
to trim afternoon and evening .gowns. The
time has gone when fringed edges, were
considered an atrocity, Now silks are
methodically and deliberately fringed any.
where from an Inch to four Inches deep.
Pinking trims many Bmart house dresses.
One of navy taffeta seen In the shop win.
dow had the collar and basque outlined
with a double line of pinking In self.tpnes.
The back of the basque featured a cape,
also outlined with the pinking, Tho ef
fect of this was remarkably quaint.
Crepe de Chine
Embroidered crepe de chine under
garments are worked in colored silks, One
smart nightie seen recently was fashioned
of flesh-pink crepe, with a deep yoke of
embroidery forming tho only trimming
Small French flowers and pale blue bow
knots afforded contrast and charm. Long
sleeves of georgette clasped with ribbons
at the wrist gave an odd note to the whole.
The Telephone Lady
A clever stand Is made of thin wood
In the shape pf a lady, with very full
skU-ts. She wears a Colonial costume,
with a flowered silk bodice and a white
wig. Right in the centre of the stand la
a glass telephone mouthpiece. Tho stand
serves to provide a sanitary mouthpiece
to any one who wants It. as well as pro.
vldlng a ''disguise" for this none too at
tractive but highly useful article.
' '
Fire Threatens Powder '4UI
8IUUOKW, Pa., May 1J. X moun.
tela fire between Trevorton and UMge-1
woob tru-im. ua uTsuyjfeu u jot qi young
timber.
Philadelphia Orchestra Assists
in Rendition of Work by
Oratorio Society
CARLISLE, Pn., May 13. Carllslo to
day was tho mecc.a for muslo lovera from
nil sections of southern-central Pennsyl
vania. Tho occasion was Carlisle's May
Festival, celebrating the 10th anniversary
of the Carlisle Oratorio Society.
This afternoon tho Opera House was
filled by music lovers for the Philadelphia
Orchestra concert. The celebration was
also in honor of Frederic C. Martin, who
has directed tho Oratorio singers on all
Its appearances. During tho afternoon
concert tho orchestra wa3 under the dl
reotlon of Mr. Martin, who directed r
piano concerto In A, written by himself
with Mr. Newell Albright, of Harrlsburg
at the piano.
This evening before a packed house Mr.
Martin's First Mass in D was rendered.
Only thoso who have been closely nc
quilnted with Mr Martin are familiar
with his accomplishments as a composer
The Mass In D Is generally along the
structural lines of the Impressive Beet
hcven and Liszt work written for the dedi
cation of the Grand Basilica, and Is prob
ably the most pretentious composition ever
written by a native Pennsylvanlan.
The work of the Carlisle Oratorio So
ciety, which Is celebrating Its tenth anni
versary, Ijj exceptional. It has given tho
following:
1907 Haydn's "Creation."
1908 Mendelssohn's "Elijah."
1909 Handel's "Messiah."
1910, Cade's "Erl-King's Daughter."
1910 Saint Saens' "Samson and De
lilah." .1911 Verdi's Requiem Mass.
1912 Berlioz's "Damlnation of Faust."
19,13--Mendelssohn's "St. Paul."
19H Qounod's "Redemption."
1915 Beethoven's "Mount of Olives"
19 IB Qrleg's "Olaf Trygvasson."
1916 Martin's First Mass in D.
Cade's "Crusaders."
RACE STREET FRIENDS
PLAN ANNUAL SESSM
Young People's Movement Fcal
turo ot .Program for
This Year
Ministers nnd elders of the Race StosifH
""""" wm mol toaay in the Eactl
Street Meeting House to discuss plans fori
tho annual sessions, which will open n?f
UUIIUUl
An Imoortant tVnh.rn iti. - ...
the Inauguration of tho young rZt.v
movement. At 3 p. m. there will fc -&il
confcrcnco on "Thn ni-i.tnn ti?".!. ,0."aM
addressed by olght young Friends. M
tcrly meetings will elect two represenllttl
-.... ---... V..V... iiuiuier 10 nerve on this
Central Coram ttee. At ft . wiTl
Ilusscll. of Johns Hopkins University. mf 31
At 10:30 tomorrow morning there wrjj!
bo meetings In tho Race street andCWt!
street meeting rooms, with a prtosilil
overflow meeting in tho Central School
lecturo room. At 3 p. m, at the annual!
schools. Dr. William B. Fnrhn.i, J.i
Swai thmorc, will Illustrate tho telling oft
Blblo stories. M
On Second-day, lBth, thero will b' ff-1
nivi-miK iui womnip at u:i6. The bujlneM)
sessions will bo held each day at 10 s.,b
anu -f.AU p. m. In tho evening there wlOf
hn nn mien meetlni. nnrln. nn t f sii
Friends' Associations. Subject, "ChnVfiS
nullum nun mo larger l'atriotlsm. " ThtTJ
speakers will bo J. Augustus CadwalladH'Wj
Robccca T. Osier and Malcolm W. Darls.43
On tho lfith tho evening meeting will lpi
uuvuieu to temperance. Addresses br'TJ
Emmor Roberta nnd Homer Vf. TopSsJ
"Improving Our First-day Schools" will hRl
tho topic at tho evening meriting ot .tbtf VJ
presented by as many school iupcrIn?S
." ... . .. . .. 'i
mho last oi mo evening meetings, esjJ
tho 18th. will bo under caro of the PhlliiM
(icipma (jommiitco. subject, "Somo Pres.Ii
cnt-tlay Problems of Parenthood," isA
cussed by Dr. Thomas D. Wood, of Cohttn
bia University. ,
At l"!30 o'clock ench day there wlll'bll
sectional meetings hold In tho Centrals
School lecturo loom. In tho Interest oti
woolmnn House, Friends' Nelghporhoodi
uuuu, welfare nnd women's Peace, partjJJ
..uw, u.ij n,u juuui; jjuujjiu win me iw
a supper conference.
CHURCH 108 YEARS OLD
Landisvillc, N. J., Methodists ,M
Celebrate With Si ttial ServicesJ
VINELAND, N. J May 13. FrlcnfiSl
Methodist Episcopal Church, near Latiil
vlllo, will bo 108 years old tomorrenvl?
and, 08 has boon the custom for yeanjS
past, the occasion will be marked SflwJI
njiocmi services. inn program inciuuffKRi
morning and afternoon services. In TtilckfiJ
the pastor, the llev. Thomas Iless, anal
Chnrlcs Wray, ono of tho oldest mOTjKM
oers, wiurtaive part. -xno itov. ueimmiii
Collins, oUMIllvllIe, will conduct an oldjj
fashioned lovo feast and experience mtl3
Ine In the mornlnir. Tho sermon will l
delivered In tho afternoon by the Iters
Dr. Thomas S. Brock, pastor of the FlrrtJ
Methodist Episcopal Church, Vlnelanl-
fllRTWEDS AT MOTHER'S BIER
Hastens Marriage to Obey Parent
Dying Wish
MARION, O., May 13. Conforming tuTa
thn tlvinc wlshen nf the brides motaec&M
Miss Katherlno K. Titus, 28, and TOh
Ham Baumcrt, 40, wero married at IbtSsjj
bier of Mrs. Simuol Titus, mother cf,
the bride. Mrs. Titus had been HI a weeWP
She expressed the wish that her diiustiii
tor's mnrrlago bo hastened before hwj
death. J
A tolegrnm was sent to Baumert na
ho left Montana immediately. Ha r3
rlvcd a few houra after Mrs. Titus oleaj
and the ceremony took placo at her ulor.
s la
I .
rf&
QUAKER
MOTH PROOF
C H E 5. T
GOi
zrnHm
SBSSS
Sfefgg
8 BetterlhanTarBajf
orceddruiesis
DON'T buy thoae clumsy, uncrttf
lur bags for your winter lotnM
nfl valiiahls furs Put tjwm la
only positive pretention of tho nwv
evil. Moths cannot stand the UW'.
Interlining-. They never set miy -,
Quaker Chest. Convenient to stor.'
rartuln and cheap. Vet Just ',
i Dy au ueparuneni pw -
l.i'jt Drug- Htores.
riTife'X'i
r-iW
The Excello
Is the Most Sanitary and tho Most SiUnt
of All Closets
Its sanitary lip and rear, preventing the
soiling of the Beat or floor, are worth In
'vestlgatlng.
The seat and cover are pure white and
have no metal parts to bo cleaned. 'They will
not chip, crack or dscolor.
The special refill chambers assures a good
water lover always.
You should Inspect this perfect fixture. It
is sold ynder the FLECK BIIOS. CO. IHON
CLAD GUARANTEE.
Write for full nurtlculars or visit
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mos
Co.
6U01VKDOMS
4J.iS-41t and SO
NORTH riFTH bTHKKT
5"WjV
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