Evening public ledger. (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, March 06, 1916, Night Extra, Page 8, Image 8

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    EVENING UEDGER-PHIL'ADBL'PHIA, MONDAY. MARCH 6, 1016-
8
it-
"HAVE WOMEN PLAYERS," SAYS
STOKOWSKI; "NOT YET," M'LISS
Exclusion of Feminine Musicians From Sym
, phony Orchestras Unwise in the Opinion
' of the Philadelphia Leader
IN A day -when women balk at notlilngr, from stecple-cllmblng to deep-sea
diving; when they can( enter virtually every field for which they can show
uatlficAtIons and many for which they cannot show them It Is significant
that not only aro thcro no women In the big orchestras of tlio world but, gener
ally speaking, thoro nro none in tho lesser orchestras.
In tho words of our own Leopold Stokowskl, who has a -worth-rending article
In tho Craftsmen of this month, this exclusion of women In tho symphony orches
tra Is an "Incomprehensible) blunder."
"When I think of women as I see them In the musical world," ho writes,
"what they aro capablo of doing, their flno spirit, excellent technique, I rcallzo
What a splendid power wo aro letting go to wasto In this country, and In other
countries, too. What poor economy It la to tako It for granted that women aro
hot ready to enter tho world of art, aro not capable of becoming fluent channels
for tho expression of genius.
"Wo aro deliberately shutting away great forces for beauty and progross
by leaving women out of our schemo of things In the nrt-world. Wo aro sacrific
ing accomplishment to tradition; for tho sake of not making tho effort of opening
our spiritual eyes wo aro leaving unusod a power of achievement as great, It
seems to mo, aa tho electricity In tho clouds which we havo not yot learned to
bring Into our homes to help us ltvo our lives moro easily and comfortably.
"You ask mo If womon will becomo conductors of orchestras. Who knows?
That Is a matter of physical enduranco as well as spiritual Insight. I doubt very
mtfch if you could evon tako any well-trained soldier In excellent physical con
dition and put him through threo hours of such exertion as conducting the
'Walkuro' without laying down the baton at tho end of tho opera In a stato of
physical exhaustion, Thero Is an Immense- amount of physical energy essential
for good conduotlng. And then. If you add tho Intense norvo-straln and the montal
strain, X doubt very much Indeed If women, trained as thoy are today physically,
could tnanago an entire opera."
This opinion, wo must remember, Is voiced not only by ono who is nn eminent
musician and conductor himself, but who Is also tho husband of a finished pianist.
Association with Olga Samaroff must drlvo homo dally to Mr. Stokowskl the truth
of many of tho statements that he makes in his article.
But Just tho same I am Inclined to dlsagreo with him. The absence of women
from symphony orchestras Is not so Incomprehensible It seems to me. I do not
think that women havo yot cut a wide enough swath In tho field of music to Jus
tify their fitness to such eminent positions.
Certainly thcro Is no forco which holds women back from composing muslo
and yet fow big names come to mind when ono tries to recall women composers.
There Is Chamtnado of "Scarf Dance" and "Flatterer" fame compositions eminent
ly suited to tho young lady parlor performer. Thero Is no big woman composer.
Thero aro few big womon musicians Carreno, Bloomfleld-Zeislcr, I'nrlow, Powell,
Sassoll you can count on tho fingers of ono hand. But when you havo named
them you havo named all.
Tho number of womon who play the piano creditably Is legion. But ono must
progress further than this for recognition from tho leador of a great orchestra.
Other handicaps than that of mero physical limitations will havo to bo sur
mounted. In my estimation, before we women aro eligible to leadship or member
ship In a great orchestra.
SEEN IN THE SHOPS
What Every Woman Knows
There's a new philosophy of clothes. It's called the "Dress-up" philosophy.
Its principles expound tho benefits to bo derived from tho psychological effects of
"prinking." The mero fact that tho manufacturers of women's apparel aro Its
sponsors, does not detract In any way from tho soundness of it. for It's a "fool"
woman, Indeed, who doesn't know that a charming frock or a becoming hat can
add at least 90 per cent, to her wit and beauty.
The Archbishop Has Spoken
Solemnly and definitely tho Archbishop of Paris has declared that those women
who wish to receive communion must not appear at the rail In decollete or scml
decolleto blouses. They must bo buttoned chastely up at the throat.
Insofar as the majority of tho people who comprise the French elect are
Catholics, tho inlluenco that this pronunciamento will have on tho coming styles
must be reckoned aa inconsiderable.
"What with summer coming on and the prospect of "choker" collars dying
a quick" death after a short life, It's rather thoughtless of the Archbishop to revive
the style The women who Insist on "going tho limit," those who would bare
their throats almost to their waist, are, of course, responslblo for this ecclesiastic
and Justifiable mandate. And it is from Just such incidents as these that style
--faus originate, too, for, of course, the prelato will be obeyed. M'LISS.
Letters to the Editor of the Woman's Page
Address all communication.! to JITJm, rare of the Kienlnr Lcilcer. Write on one
Bide of the puper only.
Dear M'LIss I want to paint on ribbon
some of thoso charming flowers that aro
beinir worn 0,-ound tho crown of hats this
eckson. J ara handy with tlio brush.
Would you adv.so my doing them In
water-color or oil. s. L.
w An artist friend tells me that oil will
not fade In the sun so quickly as water
color. You must bo clever at It, of course,
to eet a good effect.
11 Z,.&l ', Un"ffik
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SPEAKING OP LACES, HERB'S
A NEW "PANTIE" VARIETY
Filmy Profusion of Filets, Chantillies and
What-not Show America Can Hold Up Its
Head When Lace-making Is Mentioned
SPORTS MODEL STILL THEY COME
THIS smart outfit for practical dally wear Is ono of the best stylest shown during
the present season. The new square collar Is fashioned from an Ungllsh original,
und Is convertible. The coat Is plain, with largo patch pockets at the front
and white pipings and bona buttons for tho most part for trimming. The belt is
wide and simple.
The sKIrt Is wide, of couiss, and features the newest four-gored style. Tho suit
may be had In the smart elour checks a material, by the nay, which Is mighty
scarce Just now, and Is absolutely the cromo de la en-mo of spiing suitings and
navy blue gabardine. The price Is $39.50.
I,ncy things for spring n ?rt f
taken for granted, It's such a dalnt . pas
tel tinted season that ono feels called upon
to dress up to the occasion. A Blanco
.1 -i. ti.. i ,innnr(mpnt of any OIK
I More reveals many new and interesting
arrivals, but tlio very newest '""' '"""
.urn t ti,m nil la tho nantalctto lace.
Tho mnlo of tho species has, up to the
present winter, at least, regarded trousers
ns purely masculine rcgalln, '"'. a8'
even "pnntles" have become femlnlt c.
But It Isn't suffrage. It's Just a love of tho
beautiful which has created mo """""
for pantnletto laces. It Is made on a net
ground, through which a trlplo border of
flno sliver thread embroidery Is run. The
bottom of tho pantlo leg Is finished oft
with a knlfe.ptnltcd ruffle of net. hem
stitched on to tho border. Idtli, Z7
Inches, ladles!
Of course, thcro nro many many
other Interesting and highly artistic things
to see. In nil-over, Insertion, edging and
novelty patterns. Since the ruin of tho
famous IJelglnn mnrts, tho American
manufacturer Is on his mettle, nnd tho re
Rillt Is nn assortment of odd and fascinat
ing patterns which would tempt a dying
anchorlto to buy.
All-over laces show many Interesting
changes. Tho shadows and Cliantliues oi
a season ago nro also wrestling with a
rival for popularity In tho shape of tho
Iladlum laces. These nro what might bo
doscrlbed as a "cross" botween tho shad
ow nnd tho Chantllty. but finished with
nn extremely high lustre, a sheen which
distinguishes It from all others. It comes
In lovely flower and conventional patterns,
nnd Is designed to bo worn over chiffon,
peorgetto and other thin materials for tho
dressy blouse.
Very much llko these aro tho Mnrgot
patterns, a soft, Iinnu-run pattern in suit
threads upon n ground or net. 'J. no lauer,
by tho way, is hhown In every kind of
mesh, tho octngon-shaped and diamond
models being particularly good.
Ono very odd and very wonderful piece
of Inco Is called hand-knotted mesh. It
looks for all tho world llko a fine fishnet.
The stout ecru cords of which tho back
ground Is made nro knotted together by
hand, tied In tiny knots, over which a
border design of grapes Is woven.
Two-toned laces aro the hottest, most
flattering things a woman rati wear. Ono
could nlmost Imagine them associated with
"lavender and old lace," for their creamy
and shantung shadings gio the Impres
sion of having been stored in sonio
treasure chest away from the light. These
rescmblo tho fashionable Mallnes lnee,
as they are dono In quaint designs upon
a silk not ground, except that tho two
shadings mako them different from any
thing ottered thus far. Light cream-col
Ilrldnt laces play a very prominent part
In the lace openings. Chantillies of new
stylo and color aro shown, and tho new
models combine filet mednlllons with the
finer lnee. Tho borders are also of filet,
real or almost, ns tho wearer chooses.
The voguo for ruffles In summer frocks
nnd In llngcrlo Is assured, so tho laces aro
here In profusion.
Llngerlo Inccs nro receiving special at
tention this season. Tho manufacturers
have set a standard which Is hard to beat.
Very reasonable laco medallions In shadow
or Chantllly can bo bought by tho yard.
Double-bordered laces, called galloon, nro
seen on crepo do chine undergarments.
Catnlsolo Inces nro made with the me
dallions and eyelets all In ono piece, doing
nwny with the tlmo and annoyance spent
In Joining the two by hand. German
valenelennes stilt retains Its long-enjoyod
popularity, although much of It Is tho
"mado-ln-Amerlca" kind.
Imitation filet meshes nro seen In val.
weaves, and a lightweight combination
of tho two Is greatly In demand. Chtny
hns lost favor for dress and llngerlo trim
ming, although It Is used In combination
THE CHEEim CHBisl
PerWp waft.ll could do
view trurvjs
And rwe to lofty
sXrtXor$
IF we. could just
-nnikllt.-te.
Our dubious
reltiopo
RTCAhn
i
m
M
with ntinrlntv In nm'vta .- ..
the most .part, it has been relmf5
cdelnir eehtrmU., re,Wetf
Woman's Infinite Varietl
Thoy may standardize the dances J
As thov sav thnl lli !....'!
- ". . .....j .menu. !s
They nro making some advance (I
Thoy may standardize the pranctt
ino-y may sianuarcuze tho whi.!.!
But thoy have no earthlv X?",1M
None-to standardize tlm i-ih.
-Kansas City J0u,
A tailored hat of IKere straw shows the queer perpendicular bewlngs. It Is i ored tracings nro noticeable on a darker
n sailor model, with a facing of the llsero straw. The quills are offset by fan
plaltlngs and a tailored bow of faille ribbon. In any rolor the price Is $0.50.
The name of tho shop where theso articles may be purchased will be supplied
by tho Iklltor of the "Woman's 1'age, Evening) I.CDOEit, 60S Chestnut street. Tho
request must be accompanied by a stamped, self-addressed envelope, and must
mention the date on which the article appeared.
Dear M'LIss Thanks for your defense
of the American lover. I am one of them
and we do get slammed so often that
sometimes I feel llko a farmer. In fact,
I've sometimes thought that maybe if I
took to perfume or corsets there'd be some
hope. But your article encourages me
and I'll hold out a little longer.
LOVER.
When Do You Mend
Many women complain of the amount
of mending which has to be done when
there are boys in the family. In fact,
they complain anyhow, for mending, llko
the poor, Is always with us. A benslble
ounce of precaution on the mending ques
tion is to make it a point to mend alt
clothing before Instead of after it Is sent
to the laundry. It's very strange, but
most women fail to do this. Then mem
bers of the family won't have crumpled
clothes after they have been laundered.
Feline Fads
A catnip ball is the latest thing for
pUsays good health and general comfort.
They come In fancy shapes, not the least
of them being a fat, roguish-looking
mouse. This Is tied to the kitchen door
knob by a etout cord, and pussy even
the most sedentary. Belt-satisfied speci
men Is tempted by the delicious scent
to play with the ball and exercise his
muscles.
If You Love
Flowers You Should Knov
The Century Flower Shop
12th Below Chestnut St.
English Muffins
Every woman who takes tea of an
afternoon and what woman doesn't?
likes the English mufllns which are so
popular Just now. Somehow or other, the
goslp of the teatable takes on a cozy In
timacy when it Is aided and abetted by
hot, buttery scones right from the kitchen.
It Is so easy to mako them at home, and
they are so delicious that the following
recipe may be a help to somo one who
doesn't know how to make them.
Take 2 cups of bread (lour, 4'a teaspoon
fuls of sugar and M teaspoonful of salt.
Mix together and sift well. Work In 4
tablespoonfuls of butter, then add 2
beaten eggs, and cup or thin cream,
ltoll to ?4 Inch In thickness and brush
with beaten white of egg Sprinkle over
with sugar and bake for 15 minutes. This
Is the original English recipe. Serve hot
About Materials
Threo materials, and oon four, can be
used to good effect on the new spiing
frocks. Geoigette, chiffon, taffeta and
seige are the most popular variations.
All-Georgetto gowns are smait also.
For the tallleur, early models are made
of serge, velour checks and gaberdine. Tho
vclour check Is a new fabric, a sort of
kitten's car weave oidy checked It Is
smart for sports suits.
Summer styles are already being pic
dlctcd. Tho coat suit of taffeta, radium
silk or falllo Is quite the thing. It may
be any color, but navy Is still in the lead
Flutlngs, frills and ruflles of every sort
will do away with the tailored line en
tirely, It Is prophesied.
White broadcloth and serge sound hot,
but they're fashionable, so the woman
who wants to look up to dato will, of
course, resign herself. However, Palm
Beach cloth, linens, ratines and novelty
fabrics as well as shantung and pongees
aro also fashionable.
For the Porch
Wicker furnishings aro quaint nnd
charming, and tho newest models show
many Interesting features. Take, for In
stance, tho wicker plant stand. It Is made
like the ordinary box, which adorns the
porch In summer, only It has legs llko a
table. The vines, tulips, narcissi and
other spring blooms are put Into a pan,
whose shallow bottom allows for a sys
tem of self-Irrigation. Abbolutsly no
haim cm come to tho floor and the plants
keep loely und fresh
ground, or Ico versa. The two-toned lace
Is n strictly American Innovation.
Borders on tho new laces assume an Im
portant placo, where ns heretofore they
havo been second to tho design. Xow you
will soo n laco with a fine border In Walls
of Troy or conventional motif, with llttlo
or no figure on tho body of tho lace, flow
ers nnd fruits aro popular decorative patterns.
ASK FOR and GET
THE ORIGINAL
HALTED MILK
Cheap substitutes cost YOU same prlc
T WILBVRS Yl
m -Is m 'JT
f CHOCOCATE 1 1
I BVDSSr I f
H They continue to be ouprcrpa iVte art of n w
n chocolate making. " M i
See that you get "WILBWRBUDS" M
W not something that looks lik'e the'm. It's J ,
JsL the chocolate, not the form,' that v a
PjFp&X tastes. AF'S. '
fi&, tr - Sold by Leading Confectioner!, ff (fQfl N
Druggist nnd Fancy Grocer. KwfiMf Oftl -
ST H' - WILBUR &. SONS, lnc.J(ll'i
X ll S' Manufacturer m ii d ' ' w'l
V Z m ifi IT7
..-ii
SB
The Model of tike Houri
Date Sandwiches
Bread and butter is good for a child's
lunch, but It becomes dry and tasteless
If It stands too long In the tiny basket.
Most women buy rolls of waxed paper,
and wrap each Individual article of tho
lunch basket up In It This pi events any
chance of drying out A new- and most
nutritious sandwich for the hungry child
Is bread and butter, with a filling of
chopped dates.
MARTI
ORSi
Ef
"Carrying Coals to Newcastle"
These are the American corsets that
long ago captured Mme. London and
Mile. Park, and practically ended
the importation of French models.
In Smart Stores and Shop).
(1) Smut Sd Ctml Co.. Nn Yotk.
PUTNAN
HrCM
PlITWAM
5MUANi
HNSrEHs?
s
Do Your Own
Dry Cleaning
at Home
and Save Money
There's no reason why you shouldn't. Nothing
difficult or mysterious about it takes very little time.
You get almost immediate use of the article and save seven-eighths
of the cost of sending it to the dry cleaner.
Dry cleaning isn't dry at all. It's just like
washing, only gasoline is used instead of water and a
preparation in place of soan, because soap won't work in gasoline.
Its simple enough, your maid or laundress can do it and get perfect
results if you use
Putnam Dry-Cleaner
IN
WMte Kid
Clhiaimnipaiginie Kid
Wfoiite Bmickslk5ini
WlhSite Garni vas
Gray Kid
Cut 10 inches high
With or without tip
1107 Chestnut
It thoroush clean and -.novates.
Won't harm the moii Ml
cate fabric Won't calM any
ehrlnUnz, wrinkling, loMothape
or change In color. You no just
what the professional dry cleaner
doe and save his profit.
used for cloves, laces, net, em
broidery, yokes, and cuffs, satins,
and silks, ribbons and neckties,
furs and feathers, all dress goods
and woolen goods, men' suits and
overcoats, women's skirts and
suits, curtains, draperies, rugs,
cushion covers and hundreds of
other things.
Putnam DryCUantr caa be
Don't aectpl ImUallontfntist on ittlint PUTNAM DRV-CLEANSR
YOUR DRUGGIST
sells Putnam Dry.Cltantr 25c and SOe bottles. If he can't supply
you, write us we will send bottle, postpaid, for 25c.
MONROE DRUG CO., QUINCY, ILL.
Makers of Putnam Fadeless Dyes
1-X
I Bradley Market
BRADLEY Fresh j
chops Strawberries 111
The ideal light lunch Hero's n treat real 1!
for the convalescent; full Haevr8 1 JTO ereW II
of nourishing nutriment imv.r lnsteaa or merely Nfl
easily digested deli- iruit. Uji
clous. It matters not whether 1 1
27ic doctor and nun 5t bo Strawberries or I
JlUrJ?hy,eera?n. S'Tl'u "SS&" I
W H Von serve Brad- $ft I
J everything we serve. I
Bradley M.Meriano 1
Locust 70 Raco 11EI Locust 3810 ffi
'11
MILLIE AND HER MILLIONS
Market at Twenty-first Street
fsmra
CCopjright, isia.)
1 MWTY. DON'TFORG&TTHATYOUHAVETO
V i . TAUT- A fii llMlO'l-l.lllua-Anrl
irn& rut nuunj wrjirx QCrUtU-A
IT
7 IAr& AN
Sri DINNER.
- Z -
tJ
HAN6 IX MIUIE.rJ
uont Feet.
INCLINED FOR
LjOODOYE.OLDBOyA
UfcSURG AND WALK
BRISKLY". IT WILL
Do you good
i IOamtlia.!
I WUIl I VVAlt I 1
1 ) If lac. yorstJ
jK ocou. c '
THIS LEADING A DOUBLE LIFE HAS DRAWBACKS j
m
DRIUE FOR A0OUT H ,dW AF Y00r?5HOPPlNg? J c eTS BACK . HElSTVlKING yS HOUR'S J
ANHAUR. r-Jjf W6HT, Sf?. f NEARLY 0i $f V 2 lVVALKIN
1 Tlfmi I Cn"" g8n Millie, and VCt-vJI WALKING "h EXERCigeJ
'" ' - ' - ""' ji -t ' I ,n , , i ii nn -r- .,- ii ii. gmmMgMMaSMfc, ,,.ii WB
WtiSU&tmmmimimatmmtttommaMM-ini .-.V.t- - --..-.. . .-- - ..JsHHssiiii9siBsiiiiiiiiiiiiiBiiiaiiiB SB
p -
Hk.'.V.
i j I
WALKING
iiqs-
II 1
' him ii i miiifc Tin i.i i n in