BVBNING LUDaBRPHILADELPHIA, MONDAY, OOflOSBB 4. 1915.
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tASHKWABfcE FHEAKS AND
THE VANITY OF FEMININITY
Woman as a Creature of Impulse Her Inscrutability
" Is What Makes Her Most Interesting Strange
Oddities in Feminine Dress
. By ELLEN
IE" STRIKES mo that the moilcm -fash-Ions"
aim at freaklshness more than
ftnythIng,elBe-Once Upon, a time, too long
d o-.remember rightly, they used to
aim jt heapty. The general Idea In the
matter was that n
pretty face and figure
were enhanced by
pretty clothes. Indi
vidual type were
studied, too, and there
was no slavish, adher
ence to ono particular
iitylo. Designers re
membered that what
is becoming to one
woman, or to ono
typo of woman. Is
iinnfin4rL fri nnntlir
type. And clothes were made accord
ingly. Nowadays, sartorlally speaking, a
change, has come orer the Kplrlt of tho
feminine dream. To be freakish Is tho
1m and object of each fair damozel. And
tt she Isn't freakish then rest assured
that she Is unhappy, and la feeling that
ehe hasn't adequately fulfilled her mis
ton ln'llfo.
I "Walking along tho street the other day
I could not help noticing that every sec
ond woman was sallying, forth arrayed In
something striped, horizontally, vertical
ly, diagonally, all sorts of ways; In fact,
producing in tho case of ono stout Eve,
at least, a most amazing effect.
'
Jteat why a woman should want to look
like a zebra. I cannot qui to make out. If
he turned her frills Into wings and fast
ened them to her shoulders nnd combed
her hair back so that' It resembled a halo,
and generally gave herself the look of ono
of Arthur Machen'a lions angels, I could
Quito understand that
It Is only natural for a woman to want
te look like a ministering angel. A zebra
has a reputation, too, but It Is such as
makes even the most Intrepid fight shy.
Of course, you can't tamo a woman,
Ufcer. I once heard a man say that a
jBAn Is the most savage thing there is
ADAIR
outsldo a zebra. The pinker and 'whiter
sho looks outside tho fiercer she generally
Is within. Looks aro nothing to go by
In the average woman.
Once upon a time I heard of a tiny,
oherubto-looking Indy, with big blue
nnuccra of oyes and a little pink' button
of a mouth, whoso husband used to go
upstairs and turn on .the bath water when
sho started giving him her opinion on
any subject so as to drown the sound of
her voice. Her martial spirit was quite
as strong as llofliltnea's or any other war
rior queen of ancient history.
"A woman's disposition," said some
body or other recently, "when you come
to consider It, Is striped. She's black In
parts nnd white In others. Somo times
she's awfully good for no reason, and
other times sho's awfully naughty for
lots of them.
"Tou never qulto know where to have a
woman. She'll stick to a man when he's
accused of arson or murder or a few
other negligible little things like that,
nnd run nway from tho mnn who comes
homo to dinner at 7 ovory night with the
evening paper in his pocket so that she
can study the cooking recipes."
Womnn certainly Is n creature of Im
pulse. You never enn fathom the real
reason for her conduct. What seems tho
obvious motlvo power of her uctlou Is
the very thing that has had lenst weight
with her. And it is Impossible to give
any formula for solv
ing tho riddle.
After all, her In
scrutability Is precise
ly tho thing that
makes her most In
teresting. There Isn't
any charm whatever
about tho expected.
What you can sco at a glance seldom
offers anything in the least thrilling.
Tho freaklshness of fashion, then. Is a
species of index to tho averago woman's
character tho outward nnd visible sign
of thoso little unexpected ways of which
sho Is past mistress.
ADAPTATIONS OF THE POPULAR
POKE HAT STILL IN VOGUE
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A CHARMING AFTERNOON HAT
THE) early showings of fall hats dem
onstrated beyond any further doubt
if there was any that velvets of all de
scriptions and shades would bo in vogue
this winter. Plum and black came in all
shapes and styles toques being tho first
choice for an early hat Tho reason for
this Is plain, for the toque always looks
well, and Is a safe selection for the
woman whose winter costume Is still a
matter of conjecture.
The later hat showings are developing
a tendency towards pastel tinted velvets,
especially for evening wear. Tho poke
shape which has been so popular this
past summer has many successors. The
same shape was reproduced in black,
with varied trimmings of silver, gun
metal, and In many cases.whlte gros
graln bowknots. Tho same idea may be
traced, back to the Paris openings, where
Alice showed the little model pictured
in today's fashion cut Tho style Itself
Is severely plain, but It has the undeni
able attraction of being almost univer
sally becoming. I have seen the "fifty
seven" varieties of faces' underneath this
particular shape in hats, and can say
with truth that no style could prove so
adaptable to so many types of femininity.
Tan velvet is used in a rather novel
fashion on this hat Instead of being
plain, It is shirred in true French fashion,
giving the only real touch of trimming
on tho whole creation. Variegated French
silk flowers are seen on the front of the
crown, in a dainty knot, combining many
autumn shades of red, brown, tan, and
deep green. The colorings aro perfect,
and bring out in boldest relief the tones
which go towards making the successful
autumn hat
The scarf and muff worn with this
creation are mado of blue fox. The model
Is rather plain, although It Is among the
outs featured for winter wear in the
Paris ateliers.
The Waterlily and the Dragonfly
i -? me prejiy Dreeze-rutnea.surrace
ot a- (Iny pond a. water-Illy swayed
hack and forth, 'back and forth In tho
sunshine.
"What a pity It is," she said to her
self contentedly, "that everybody on
earth can't be a water-lily"! How happy
t-hey would bo I"
"What's'that you say?" asked a hand
some green and gold dragon-fly who hap
pened by Just then.
. "I say, 'What a pity Is is that every-
jflfl " llkrjik17 -StKSfllHI
go frctrpital io petal, from flower
to flqwtrl
t'Ay caCt ,bo- a water-lliy1' o.nd I be-r-Ye,
It. iqo." ald tho water-iUy deold-'
Jy ftfce nodded her .hiad In the breuje
it- t ToeJted vontenelly
''1,t a .fpo-.tj wljii!" exilatmed the
n-rffe Jfiuh. ijrly I'.eaee do tell me
whet ntaMi vou think everybody would
h u to sraur-iujr ur why they
n ..ij u ov whether they HKcd it or
"To be sure. I'll tell you," cried the
water-lily. "I'll like telling you and
everybody would like being a water-lily if
they only knew how fine It was! We
stay still in the water Instead of flutter
ing wildly about as you poor creatures
dn; we have good strong roots which
give us plenty to eat without our bother
ing a whit: we have all the sunshine
there is; all the water we want oh, a
water-lily's life Is the happiest in the
world!"
"Now Just listen to that!" said the
dragon-fly scornfully, when she had fin
ished. "Such common deslrosl such low
nlmsl Don't you ever want to know any
thing of the world? Don't you get des
perate staying forever In one placet I
never could be happy If I was fastened
by strong roots to the slime and mud
of a tiny pond I"
The dragon-fly darted first to one leaf
of the pnow-whlto Illy, then to another.
"Bee! How I fly! I go from petal to
petal, from flower to flower! That Is
happiness! I see all the world 1"
"See all the world," laughed a great
bird who sailed over the pond just then.
"Think you that you, a poor dragon.fly,
see tho world?" And so great was his
Interest that the great bird stopped by
the side of the pond to hear the dragon
fly's answer.
"To be sure I do." said the dragon-fly
contentedly. "Don't I go frqm Illy to Illy
in search of the best? Don't I travel
Lfrom side to side of this great pond? Ah!
rt uragon-uys me is a free and big and
happy one!"
"Almost AS good as a water-lily's,"
aid the Illy to the 6rcat4)lrd. "Almost,
hut not entirely! i am the happiest of
all."
The great bird thought of his long,
hard flights; of (he slsjits in the world
he had seen and he flow, away without a
word to mar the happiness of the fly and
the flower, who. were content And the
water-lily and th dragon-ny, Jeft atone,
an,g of their happiness. In the world
thu Utile pond which was all they kneWI
CPjyrUbt-Ctan InsriiW J-yitem,
BRAVE, BOLtojmiDEfillOOM
Although n Bachelor, Ho Weds n
Widow With 18 Children nnd 13
Grandchildren
George Washington, of Virginia, was
the father of his country, but Oeorge
Washington Henry, of Oloucester, has
pone "a step farther" by marrying a
widow with IS children. Ho married Mrs.
Henrietta Vcrmlllle, who Is 64, and It
was learned today that they were very
happy.
Henry, who Is K, was a bachelor black
smith. Ho becamo acquainted with Mrs.
Vermllllo a' yea.- ago nt her llttlo grocery ;
and oMmr store. Her soolable manner at
tracted him and he called frequently. The
faot that Mrs. Vermlllle was the mother
of IS children, which llttlo army was
reinforced by 13 grandchildren, did not
deter him In the least.
He proposed and was accepted, and each
of his prospective stepsons nnd step
daughters were glad. Kven the step
grandsons and step-grnnddaughters were
plcnaed and attended the wedding..
Mayor David M. Anderson performed
the ceremony rtn.1 Henry Dnlkc, a grand
son of the bride, acted as best mnn for
his grandmother's new spouse; his wlfo
was her brldesnuld. A reception was ten
dered the bride nnd bridegroom at tho
home of Mrs. George C. dray, n daugh
ter of tho bride.
Little Benny's Note Book
I took 3 peeccs of chewing gum to
skool this nttlrnoon, starting to chew
wun of them doorlng tho langwlilgo le&nln
nnd prltty soon Miss Kitty, beetng my
tcotchlr, snw my mouth going nnd sho
scd, Ucnny Potts.
Mam, I scd.
Is It posserbll thnt you are chewing
gum, sed Miss Kitty.
Yes mam, I scd.
Well come rlto up and spit It out In
my waist b.isklt, sed Miss Kitty. Wlch
I did, and doorlng tho drawing lessln I
put nnuthlr pecco In my mouth nnd
starttd to chew It and Miss Kitty saw
me, bcclng prltty hard to eet anything
verry Inwng without her seeing you, nnd
sho scd, Benny, you nmmc me, wat did
I Jest get throo telling you.
This Is nnuthlr pecce, I scd.
Como up hcer nnd spit It out, sed Miss
Kitty. Wlch I did. Miss Kitty saying.
Now dont you daro to let me cntch you
chowlng agen.
And I went back to my scet, and 1
dldent put tho 3rd pecco In my mouth
till the JoggrlfTy lessln, the Joggrlffy book
bcclng a prltty good thing to hide In
back of, but Miss Kitty saw mo Jest tho
salm, saying, Benny Potts, can I blccve
my eyes.
Yes mam, I sed.
Dldent I toll you not to daro chew
ngen, scd Miss Kitty.
No mam, I scd.
Wats that, scd Miss Kitty verry lowd.
You told me not to daro to let you catch
mo chewing ngen, I scd. '
Well, I cawt you, dldent I, sed Miss
Kitty, nnd I sed, Yes mam. and Miss
Kitty scd. Come up hecr and let that
peece folio the fcrst 2, and stay nn hour
aftlr skool for bcclng so Bmart.
Wlch I did.
The Now
The charm of a lovo Is Its telling, the
telling that goes with tho giving.
Tho charm of a deed It Is doing; tho
charm of a life Is tts living.
The soul of a thing Is the thought; the
charm of an act is the actor!
Tho soul of the fact Is Its truth, and the
now Is its principal factor.
What ubo to mankind is a purpose that
nover shono forth In a doer;
What ubo has the world for a lover that
never had winner nor wooer?
The motives, the hopes and the schemes
that have ended In idle conclusions
Are burled along with the failures that
come In a life of Illusions.
Awny with the flimsy Idea that llfo with
a past Is attended,
There's now, only now, and no past
there's never a post; It has ended.
Awny with Its obsolete story and nil of
its yesterday sorrow;
There's only today, almost gone, and -in
front of today stands tomorrow,
Exchange.
Thief Steals Phonograph Records
A thief stole 70 phonograph records and
a camera from tho home of Joseph L.
Roop, 242 West Rlttenhouse street, Qer
mantown, Thursday night Tho loss was
not discovered until lost night, when Mr.
Roop looked for one of his favorite talk
ing machine records.
&d CORSET JSA
"IT CLINGS"
Announcement
Our corsets have cntoved Hiir.h
popular favor that we must seek
extension quarters to accommo
date our growing business. So
we navo opened a Drancn store at
1531 Chestnut St.
Ntxt Door to the Arcadia Theatre
FOR CORSETS ONLY
FALL CORSET SriOWING
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SX-o "
From ft
to SO
Pnnsiliis OavhI Yi..JI A
VVB, OIIt MJ1CU a
Heavy Bonid In all i?rade and
WUtltffll matpla1sj miltattla
all figures. '
M. B. STEWART
JSS Walnut St. t 13th
Oppottte Bt, fame Hotel
ESTABLISHES 1M0
MRS. A. REICHARD
Stamping ami Embroidery
HematltcliltiK, lftc pr yard
pictobial kkv jew Patterns
1113 CHJtSTKUT STRKKT
w slisisHisisisF'vcaMWfe, -3iaEH!SwMilisLsHLsLsLsLs!isLsLsLsLsLsV Vv
Hf nSHKKlHflLMiiisiiisisisisisisE
JisisisisisV jfn. $3l&vfyt HisisislisisisisisisHt ' " V I
TMAITORA-NTTS FED AT LOSS
SINCE GREAT WAR BEGAtf
HELENA MORRILL
STUDENT LIFE ABROAD AS
DESCRIBED BY ACTRESS
IT ANDREAS DIPPEL had not made
good his promise to glvo New York
light opera, with a real opera company,
Its thoatre-goers would have been de
prived of tho Joy of Bcclng and hearing
Helen Morrill nt least for the present.
Tho young prima donna or Mr. Dlppcl's
now comic opera, "The Lllno Domino,"
now at the Lyric Theatre, tells of her llfo
us a student nbro.id nnd of the ad
vantages of European training as opposed
to American.
"I had qulto a discussion coming over
on the boat with Fannlo Bloomfleld
Zclslcr," said Miss Morrill relative to tho
merits of foreign musical training and
study at home. Madame Is ono of our
musicians who havo started a movement
to encourage young men and women to
stay at home, Instead of going nbroad to
Btudy. Sho holds that there are as cfll
clcnt teachers here, and that In addition
tho . student Is not subjected to the
dangers of the Bohemian llfo supposed to
flourish In foreign capitals.
"I did not find nny more of this life
than In Now York, and one docs not have
to he a part of It In Berlin any more than
In New York, unless one chooses. It Is
so common to see groups of girls ot the
concerts. They go unattended, and aro
not molested In any way. And there Is
such a choice of concerts a great many
every night to choose from'.
"But the greatest advantage Is that
over there they nre willing to slvo you
a chance while you aro still young, to
put up with your imperfections In the
hope that ns you grow you may develop
Into a big artist In America the public
demands that a singer must be almost
perfect, must already havo achieved grcnt
success. That Is why Europe Is full ot
American singers who am tine artists, but
who cannot gain tho opportunity to sing
nt home.
"I studied In Paris and Milan nnd Berlin
four years. When I had been there two,
I went to nn agent and sang for him.
After that I had plenty to do. 'Mnr
guerlta' nnd 'Butterfly' were my favorite
roles. I shall never bo quite happy until
I have sung 'Butterfly' here, for, of
course, I want to sing In opera here some
time. Tho critics wore good enough to
say that my 'Butterfly' mado them forget
nil others they had heard.
"To accomplish the best results ono
should bo able to sing and study nt tho
same time, and that is what ono can do
nbroad. It is when you are singing be
fore the public that you most need a
competent teacher. Then so many stu
dents forget that a good voice Is not tho
only essential. After all, it is personality
that counts. I took lessons In acting nnd
also developed my dancing. I lovo to
dance almost as well as to sing, but 1
should never do that exclusively, because
I shouldn't want to unless I could bo a
Pavlowa, and I can't stand on my toes."
Want Allegheny for Fruit Trade
The steamship Allegheny, which for
merly piled In the Merchants and Miners'
Transportation Company's service be
tween this port Boston, Savannah and
Jacksonville, is to bo converted into a
fruit ship. Negotiations for the sale of
the vessel to the Cuyamel Fruit Com
pany, of ruerto Cortez, Honduras, are
now under way.
MJ CHEMI-PANTALON V
gSK jfes A shapely semi-fitted com- q A
JB rte. bination. Combines the ' W. U
M J' rFa daintiness of a Chemise Yw
.7W ill j it ana" eliminates the usual u ib
l l I n uf l extra bulk, fullness and in ft
Jk 1 II I bands of the drawer. - II ll
llxil ll f Sr Worn under the cortet In open, B
I (fi Of I 11 cld and buttonl eg designs. A H
II Kli ' I V very populargarment. $1.75up. ; K
I li l Here ' evel7 Brmenl '" T1- IB II ffl
I I lored Lingerie, including Cmtt B IK
I ll'fVi Ctvtr & Draivcr CtnclCe-vir IP Iff
'I and Skirt Envelipt Chtmut IN ll m
V V "ll f 11 Chtmi-Pantahn and Shtalh U II M
HT Van Orden Jy m
I li Outfitters in Underdress Zy Mr
-Jzmfa&t(?r
Invites your early selection of
Millinery, Evening Gowns
Coats and Wraps,
Blouses, Dresses, Suits, Etc.
1624 WALNUT STREET
Lively Scenes at U. S. Sta
tion Down the Delaware
Replaced by Dreariness.
Woman Contractor's
Profits Have Ceased
Any ono who ever visited the United
States Immigration Station, located a
few miles down the river at Oloucester,
N. J., In the "ante-bellum" days, and was
nn oycwltness to tho groat crowds of
brightly garbed, distressed but babbling
mass of humanity which surged restlessly
about the grounds awaiting n rclcaso
from their erstwhile prison, will And t
hard, Indeed, to readjust his mentnl pic
ture to fit the station ns It stands today.
There Is a silence there such ns one ns
soclntcs with tho tombs of tho dead, for
Instcnd of 260 detained foreigners, whoso
Jargon of low gutturals or high stacatto
tones were wont to make tho rooms re
sound, thoro are only nine lonoly persons
feverishly counting out the hours until
tho gato to liberty swings wldo open for
them. ,
This silence Is olgnlflcnnt. It represents
the loss of fortunes both great nnd small,
for It tells tho story ot tho mammoth
transatlantic liners which ply no more
between tho Old World nnd our own land,
carrying their animated cargo of human
souls Into this "promised" wonderland of
wealth.
"Mrs. Anna S. Talmcr, who has a con
tract with tho United States Government
to feed theso hundreds of dctnlned Im
migrants, says the silence Is doubly sig
nificant to her.
Mra. Palmer Is n quiet, motherly llttlo
body, nnd Is probably the one woman In
America who hnB felt the direct pinch ot
tho war havoc more than any other wom
an on our shores.
FEEDING IMMIGRANTS AT LOSS.
"Indeed It Is Impossible to make ends
meet nowadays," sho said, but wlt'n n
sad little smile which mcaps she Is mak
ing the best of It gracefully. "My con
tract will not bo up until next July, nnd,
of course, I make my living hero by fced
Ihg tho detained Immigrants at 47 cents
per person. There are only nine hero
now, but tho rent nnd many of the ex
penses go on Just the same. I rent this
part of t'ne stntlon nnd pay nil my own
help. AVhllo I don't havo to pay quite
ns much rent as before the war. I am
losing money right along; In fnct, I can
not even attempt to make ends meet.
"Tho time is far away, I am afraid,
when there will bo as many Immigrants
hero as there used to be. The Itavcrford,
whtcn used to bring them, has been taken
by the British Government; the Merlon
was lost, and the German-Lloyd nnd Ital
ian Lines have stopped running. Tho Do
minion brings very few."
"I charged 47 cents a day for each per
son per day," Mrs. Palmer said. "And
I always served good, substantial food.
For breakfast I always had a cereal with
milk, a hash or meat stew or baked pork
and beans (sometimes fried fish), pota-
is v i ' HM
V t "Shv1
:'. .-;.. 1 ' " Ml
1 1
asffiffii
MRS. ANNA PALMER
toes, fresh bread and butter and coffee
or tea.
"For dinner there was always a nice I
vegclablo or noodio soup, roast meat
potatoes, two or three vegetables (ex
cept corn tho foreigners don't like corn))
nnd coffee or tea again.
"For supper corned beef or fish hash",
or a beef or mutton stow, stewed prunes,
bread pudding with raisins, tnploca pud
ding or pic, fresh bread and butter, nnJ
always coffco or tea. Of course, the
meals varied each day."
"For 47 cents a day," aho murmured,' 'J
nnd then with n llttlo laugh added, "and M
tnoy ininK i mauo iota or money,"
LONELY CHINESE ON HOOF.
Tho roof garden at tho Immigration sta
tion Is n pretty cold-looking proposition.
It is nn upper veranda with stone .floor
and seven or eight benefnes arranged
'stlfly to faco tho stono parapet It oyir.
looks tho river, whero boats of all sizes
mayi bo seen plying up and down every
HttloT while, or whero ono may always
watch tho endless war pf wind nnd wave,
Tho Chinese who eat there, however,
looked Willi unseeing eyes. As the door
swung open ho looked up expectantly
and his eyes seemed to search Mrs.
Palmer's face for somo word of encour
agement. He hnd been sitting on that
bench slnco early morning, according to
Mrs. Palmer; his hat was pulled on tight
ly, and In his hnnd he clutched a bundle
wrapped In newspaper. lie was ready to
answer fno first summons which would
spell his freedom. Although tho authori
ties might hold him indefinitely, he arises
bright and early, clutches his bundle in
his arms, dons 'nls hat and waits. And
the minutes stretch away Into hours, and
tho hours into days.
EMMAHARTMAN
1502 Walnut Street
Tesents a distinctive
and authoritative collection
oi'WznterfasJiions
adaptations of Models
from the leading couturiers
of Paris
Tailleurs and Gowns -Goats
Wraps and Blouses
from which immediate selection,
can he made 'Commencing
'Adnesday-October Sixth
I
dmM An opportunity to in-
& JIBB Bpec tho new fur fash"
ifff ions at fur-style head-
e Here you may review
ft an inclusive exhibit,
iiuM .'.... covering all approved
MH.-, modes in every .popular
(I L 1 Ik' f SitAt
I
f '-4..,4....,sr'